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HOMEBREW Digest #2338
HOMEBREW Digest #2338 Thu 06 February 1997
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@brew.oeonline.com
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
Home malting, part 1 ("Gregory, Guy J.")
Recipe for Strong Scotch Ale ("Michael R. Swan")
Flood water analysis (smurman)
"dropping" and British ales (Charles Epp)
skunking and beer colour (Stephen Neate)
Lactation and Stout/Allergy Observations/Al K. (Rob Moline)
Thanks & a recipe ("Val J. Lipscomb")
pH adjusting (Sisco, Jim )
Filtering Flattus (Rick Olivo)
Need some help making a light cherry beer ("Kenneth A. Lee")
Re: Low gravity blues (grecar)
New Mash Tun Questions (WalkerMik)
[Fwd: reusing yeast--jim booth] (kathy)
Re: Canning in beer bottles (Scott Murman)
JS EM fix ("Mike Kidulich")
Best temp for Cold Break? ([Michael Otten])
Water Filtration/Water Analysis (UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford@e-mail.com>
Oatmeal Stout (Carrick Legrismith)
Mash/Lauter tun manifold ("R. Wayne McCorkle")
re: lactic acid (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
RE: Inverted Fermentation (Eric Peters)
lack of carbonation (ELVIS942)
Stones in my beer (LaBorde, Ronald)
Brew Kettle Questions (Frosty)
Re: Bulk Malt Extract (Jeff Smith)
8th Annual Dredhop Homebrew Contest (John A. Carlson, Jr.)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 13:20:00 PST
From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461@ecy.wa.gov>
Subject: Home malting, part 1
My brother-in-law grows barley, and I brew. I thought perhaps I should brew
some beer from his barley, appropriately labeled, to help maintain my bird
hunting rights on his land, and to provide all of us an idea of what is
involved with malting. He graciously donated a 5 gallon bucket of barley
for this task. It turns out that is about 45 lbs.
The barley he grows generally goes for soup or other uses. I have no idea
of initial protein or nitrogen content, figuring that in the old days, they
didn t worry a lot about that. It is a 2-row barley, with nice plump equally
sized grains similar in size to what I buy from my homebrew shop. I also
have no idea of the initial moisture content, but it was in marketable and
storable shape, so it must be pretty low.
I weighed out 10 lbs on my bathroom scale. This I soaked in my old zapap
lautertun in 65F water for about 38 hours. At that point, the grain weighed
14 lbs, for a 40% moisture weight gain. I built a screen frame out of 1 by
4 s to the interior dimensions of my oven, and covered the bottom with
aluminum window screen. I placed the soaked grain in this frame and placed
it on my floor in my basement (ambient temp 64F). I covered it with a towel
so my geriatric cat wouldn t make an unfortunate mistake. Each day I would
examine the grain, raking it with my hand, and turning it a bit. I rinsed
it about every 48 hours or so by placing the frame over my brew sink and
hosing off the grain with clear water.
By the second day in the frame, little rootlets appeared. These things tend
to bind the grains together into mats, easy enough to break up, but somewhat
unexpected. The grain has a very distinctive odor, not dissimilar to wet
grass, but very clean smelling. I began checking for the acrospire to grow.
5 days and 16 hours in the frames, I noticed the acrospire was done. It is
a very green line on one side of an otherwise white, mealy appearing grain
interior. It is thick near the base at the rootlets, but thins toward the
top. Most folks say when the acrospire has grown to between 3/4 and the
total length of the grain, it s ready for kilning. I tested 5 or 6 kernels,
cutting the grain in half lenghtwise, and they all seemed about the same.
I took the frame up to my oven. My wife was out of town, so this part was
easy. I placed the frame inside the oven at 125F and left it for 30 hours.
I would rake it occaisionally with my fingers, noticing how moist it felt.
The smell was glorious, sort of like baking bread.
I weighed it at 30 hours, or when it quit smelling really great in my house
and the grain got dry to the touch, and the grain weighed 9 lbs.
Accounting for loss, I should be dry, or a bit drier perhaps, then the
original moisture content. Now, how to get rid of the rootlets....I put the
new pale malt in my lautertun again, and began milling it between my hands.
The little rootlets fall off, and out of the bottom of my lautertun, and
all over the floor. Hooray, it s malt....now to grind it.
I don't have a mill, as my homebrew shop grinds grain when I buy it really
nicely. I decided a test mash was in order. I got 1 lb of my home malt,
worked it over with a rolling pin for a while, and mashed. The rolling pin
method didn't yield a really swell crush.
My 1 qt water to 1 lb. mash seemed to use less grain than it does with
commercial malt. I stepmashed on my stovetop in the same way as my regular
beer, and sparged with 1 qt of water through a kitchen strainer for about
1.75 quarts of wort. My gravity was 1.010 for this batch.
Anybody want to tell me what went wrong? Should I go for a kilning step?
Is my crush that bad? Or maybe it's the variety? Will I bird hunt this
fall?
I appreciate your kind attention to this post. My plans are to kiln, crush
better, and try again. I'll post the results.
Cheers:
Guy Gregory
GuyG4@aol.com
Lightning Creek Home Brewing
Sometimes I'm Sorry I Left Extracts
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 97 16:33:27 EST
From: "Michael R. Swan" <mswan@fdic.gov>
Subject: Recipe for Strong Scotch Ale
Since someone asked that more recipes be posted, I thought I would share
one of mine for a batch I made in December. Due to lack of equipment, I
generally make 2 1/2 gallon batches.
Basenji Strong Scotch Ale
Category : Strong Scotch Ale
Method : Full Mash
Starting Gravity : 1.070
Ending Gravity : 1.010
Recipe Makes : 2.8 gallons
Total Grain : 7.10 lbs.
Color (srm) : 45.6
Hop IBUs : 18.5
Malts/Sugars:
5.00 lb. Pale Ale
0.50 lb. Crystal 20L
2.00 oz. Roast Barley
0.50 lb. Crystal 100L
0.55 lb. Brown Sugar
Hops:
0.33 oz. Kent-Goldings hop pellets 7.0% 70 min
Yeast:
Wyeast #1969 in one quart starter which had been stepped up
twice.
Remarks:
I was trying to clone McEwans Scotch Ale. All grains (except
roast barley) were mashed for two hours at 154 degrees. I added the
2 oz. of roasted barley at mashout. After sparge, wound up with
more than 4 gallons of wort. Specific gravity: apx. 1.060 for 4
gallons.
The key to the taste of this beer is the carmelization of the first
runnings. I caught the first quart of clear runnings in a pyrex measuring
glass and microwaved them for 15 minutes along with a half pound
of brown sugar.
Boiled for 100 minutes, the last 70 minutes with the hops.
This is not a bitter beer but has a great caramel flavor. After
the boil, I had 3.5 gallons with a SG of 1.070.
This was the second time I tried Wyeast #1969 yeast. The
first time, the yeast floc'd out too fast. This time, I
agitated the carboy every day to get the yeast back into
circulation. It seemed to work since the final gravity was lower
than expected. (1.010). Primed with 1/2 cup of corn sugar.
The bottles carbonated within three weeks. The beer turned out
tasting very similar to McEwans. I am not much on competitions, but would
consider entering this beer.
Mike Swan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 14:18:37 -0800
From: smurman@best.com
Subject: Flood water analysis
Does anyone living in Northern California have any idea what our water
looks like these days, since we've had so much flooding? A friend of
mine who has a big aquarium setup, said that he suspected that they
had added a lot of chlorine to compensate. I'm planning on mashing
some pale ale malt this weekend, and I'm not sure what water treatment
to perform.
SM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 16:52:45 -0600
From: Charles Epp <chuckepp@ukans.edu>
Subject: "dropping" and British ales
Some time ago, there was a brief discussion on this list about the
practice of "dropping" British ales, as recommended by Wheeler and
Protz. Dropping involves transferring the ale from primary to secondary
after only about a day or two of active fermentation. In the transfer,
the fermenting ale is dropped from the siphon from a height of several
feet, in order to provide some aeration. The homebrewers who tried this
said that it produced noticeably smoother, rounder beers, and also
seemed to accentuate the hop character of the beers. My question is
this: how do these beers fare over the long haul -- do they degrade
more rapidly than non-dropped beers due to the infusion of oxygen? I
guess another question is whether others of you have tried this -- if
you have, how did you like the results, both short-term and long-term?
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 09:27:43 +1030
From: Stephen Neate <Stephen.Neate@adl.soils.csiro.au>
Subject: skunking and beer colour
If skunking is related to light and the reaction is inhibited by brown beer
bottles, is the degree of skunking experienced by a beer exposed to the same
light source dependant on the colour of the beer. What I am thinking is
that should I bottle my brown ales, porters and stouts in the green bottles
I have and my pilsners etc in brown bottles.
Stephen Neate
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:02:40 -0600
From: Rob Moline <brewer@kansas.net>
Subject: Lactation and Stout/Allergy Observations/Al K.
>From: Tony Owens <ivy@fastlane.net>
>Subject: Lactating mothers and stout!
> the fact that doctors in the past would prescribe stout to lactating
>mothers. He also went on to say that in England during WWII (I believe
>is the war) all the stout in England was rationed for lactating mothers.
>Is there any of you out there that can confirm this for me? If it is
>true, what exactly assists in milk production of a lactating mother?
>Dextrins?
The stuff in stout that assists mothers breast feeding is simply the
fact that stout is full of 'fuel.' "Beer is Food," and big beers like
stouts simply have more 'food' than lesser beers. And the added benefit is
that the 'medicine' is usually eagerly consumed!
When I was training as a nurse in Gladesville in Sydney, and on 3
months specialty training at Sydney Hospital, it was not uncommon for the
physicians to order Guinness for patients who were recovering from surgery,
or who were mal-nourished. Usually ordered as "one bottle of Guinness with
meals," the stout was ordered from the pharmacy, just like other drugs.
Allergies..
FWIW, many patients who say they are allegic to certain drugs, are
not clinically. Reports of the effects of consuming the allergic drug are
often related as "felt nauseous;" these are side effects of the drug, not
indications of allergic reaction, whereas skin eruptions, sweating, pallor,
swelling of the airway and vascular changes are evidence of allergic
reaction. The anaesthetist would note the patients statements, and then
proceed to nuke them with similar drugs, and no reaction would occur.
Recently, a customer complimented my rye beer, stating that he
preferred it to my other beers; as he was allergic to wheat he had never
tried my wheat ale. I didn't tell him that most of my beers use wheat as a
'head-grain,' and that my rye beer has more wheat in it than any other,
including the wheat ale. He has been drinking these beers for over a year now.
IMHO, and not to dispute anyones experiences with allergic
situations, which can have life threatening outcomes, it is apparent to me
that many 'allergies' are more psychological than physiological.
Al K....
An under-valued asset, as far as I'm concerned.
Jethro (Happy with a BW that's now down to 6.7 P and still going) Gump
Rob Moline
Little Apple Brewing Company,
Manhattan, Kansas.
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:13:15 -0600 (CST)
From: "Val J. Lipscomb" <valjay@NetXpress.com>
Subject: Thanks & a recipe
Just a short thank you to Dave B. and Harlan for the CO2 purging input
and to Al K. for several assists and especially to Pat and Karl for the
resurrection of the HBD.
A week or so ago, I agreed with the idea of posting recipes and promised
I would put my recipe where my mouth is. This is an exceptional American
Pale Ale house beer (thanks to Allen Ford). I was a confirmed lager brewer
'til Allen brought this to a Bock'n'Ale-ians meeting a few years ago. The
13th batch is in primary now, I must like it. The combination of grains
works best, but I've used all US, all Belgian and different percentages
and it's always great. The mash temp is also flexible from 155 to 160.
So, here it is:
Just Beer
for 5 gallons
4.5 Lb-US 2-row
4.5 Lb-Belgian Pale Ale (British works too)
0.5 Lb-Belgian Carapils
Single Infusion mash at 158F for 75 Minutes (12 Qts water)
Sparge with 175F water to yield 6.5 gallons to kettle
25 Gm-Kent Golding pellets(6.0% AAU) for 60 minutes
25 Gm-Mt Hood pellets(5.1% AAU) for 2 minutes
25 Gm-Mt Hood pellets-dry hopped in secondary
90 Minute boil
Ferment with Wyeast 1056
OG: 1.055
FG: 1.013
IBU: 28
Color: 7 SRM
Another thanks to Dion H. for the Red Ale recipe and this simple
recipe format.
"Try it, you'll like it",
Val Lipscomb-brewing in San Antonio
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 17:45:29 -0800
From: jjsisco@plix.com (Sisco, Jim )
Subject: pH adjusting
I'm looking for some practical advise for adjusting the pH of my sparge
water. I'm a novice grain brewer and have done a few batches without
adjusting the pH of my alkaline tap water. Results so far have been
good, but I'm always working for a better ale.
I've read about this in Papazian and Miller's books snd have searched
some FAQs but have found some conflicting advice.
What are you using to adjust the pH? What pH are you trying to reach?
Would you recommend adjusting the pH of the mash water (my tap water pH
is about 9)? If you use lactic acid or phosphoric acid where do you get
it?
Thanks,
Jim jjsisco@plix.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 20:15:33 -0600
From: Rick Olivo <ashpress@win.bright.net>
Subject: Filtering Flattus
Spankster, regarding your HBD Post:
I have what may be a stupid question, but here goes anyway. I have
been extract brewing for close to two years now, with much of my
product being consumed by me. I have never really had a problem with
gas and bloating until my last two batches. It's really bad! I have
tried the gas-x, etc., but find no relief. I have read that the
yeast ferments substances in your bowels, thus causing the extra
wind...
A couple of observations. First, it is not the yeast that is causing
your gaseous discomfort. What is happening is that certain,
unfermentable sugars from your brew are getting into your digestive
tract where they are not easily digestable. they go into your large
intestine largely unchanged where they are acted upon by certain
anerobeic bacteria that are fermenting it in much the same manner that
yeast acts on the simple sugars of malt. The resuslts are uniformly
unpleasent: large volumes of methane and carbon dioxide gas being mixed
with ketone byproducts that give flattus that, ahhh... distinctive aroma
that has driven your wife out of the bedroom. Unfortuantely, although
nailing down the cause is fairly simple, the cure isn't. You say you
have tried gas-x (simethecone) Have you tried bean-o (an enzyme compound
that helps break down the complex long-chain sugars into simpler more
digestible sugars)which often gives people who have similar problems
with beans (for the same reason) considerable relief. Failing that, you
might try activated charcoal tablets or capsules, which have a powerful
ability to absorb noxious odors (but will likely do little to eliminate
the gas problems itself). In my experience it is the potency of the odor
and not the volume of the report that wives have the most problem with
in any case. Another thing, You say that you first started having gas
problems recently. Have you changed your recipie recently? Perhaps
having additional malts with unfermentable sugars for "mouthfeel" may be
at the root of your troubles. You might try making a beer, as an
experiment, with a very high order of conversion to simple sugars, to
see if that has any effect on your flattus and borbourigny.
Best of luck,
Rick Olivo aka STRANGE BREWER
ashpress@win.bright
"Vitae Sine Cervesae!" (Life without beer sucks!)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 20:59:25 -0700
From: "Kenneth A. Lee" <kenlee@ibm.net>
Subject: Need some help making a light cherry beer
I was given a recipe to make light cherry beer that said the following:
- -----------------------------------------------------
Mix - premier super light malt extract
Merlin Cherry Mix - 25 oz
1 pound of brown sugar
1 pound of malt extract
- -----------------------------------------------------
Thats it....
Seems to be missing some things (like hops and type of yeast to use) and I
don't want to spend money on quality ingredients for something that *might*
taste good. I would like to make a beer that has the body of a bass ale
with a hint of cherry flavor or something like that. I only have the
equipment for extracts and a single carboy right now, so some help with a
simple recipe would be greatly appreciated. I wouldn't mind more complex
recipes either. I hope to learn enough to buy more equipment and try them
sometime this summer!
Thanks,
Kenneth Lee
kenlee@ibm.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 23:40:24 -0500
From: grecar@pinn.net
Subject: Re: Low gravity blues
In reply to Ray Loves posting in HBD #2334
I have been experiencing the same problem lately. the last three batches, 2
of my own and one of a friend, had an original gravity of about one half of
what was estimated. My last batch, 5 gallons, used 6.6 lb. of liquid malt
extract, 1 lb. 2-row malt, 1/2 lb. Crystal 60 malt and 1/4 lb. Carapils
malt. I was expecting an original gravity of about 1.053, but got a reading
of 1.026. The other two batches had about the same results. The malt
extract we are using all came from the same case of Northwest Gold that was
mail ordered and shipped directly from Northwest as the mail order supplier
was out of stock.
Two of the batches are still in carboys and one batch was just bottled.
Previous batches have not had this problem. Could it be a bad batch of
extract, has anyone ever heard of this happening before? If so how can that
be determined? I have used Northwest extracts previously without this
problem. If the extract happened to have been frozen during shipping could
this be the problem. We have used two different hydrometers and both gave
the same readings.
I look forward to reading any responses anyone may have concerning this.
Greg Carroll
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 00:00:10 -0500 (EST)
From: WalkerMik@aol.com
Subject: New Mash Tun Questions
Hello All,
I am trying to decide on my next equipment upgrade and was wondering what
other brewers use for mash/lauter tuns. I currently use a plastic pail and
Phils Phalse Bottom and am not interested in a Gott cooler type of
mash/lauter tun. I am thinking about converting a keg (Pico Brewing, Sabco,
etc) or purchasing a 15 gal ss pot with ball valve and thermometer.
Which do you recommend and why?
Mike Walker
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 00:49:50 -0500
From: kathy <kbooth@scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us>
Subject: [Fwd: reusing yeast--jim booth]
Message-ID: <32F81850.2A3C@scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 00:19:11 -0500
From: kathy <kbooth@scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us>
Reply-To: kbooth@scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Macintosh; I; PPC)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: hbdsubmitt <homebrew@brew.oeonline.come>
Subject: reusing yeast--jim booth
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I'm trying to remember the procedure to salvage yeast out of my
secondary for reuse. It has been discussed several times in the past 6
mos on the HBD, but I don't know which volumes. I tried to search for
the Brewery URL but couldn't get my engine to work. As I remembered:
I boiled 3 qt jars 1/2 full of water and sealed and cooled.
Used the 1st to wash the carboy back into the qt and let it stand 24hrs.
Discarded the top h2o and swirled in the 2nd 1/2 qt and let stand 1 hr.
Saved the top solution into the third jar for next batch.
9/10's of the slurry is left behind...is that right?
Should the yeast be fed as it has been 6 weeks abrewing?
Does anyone have a reference I should look up?
Thanks and my compliments to the new HBD homeowners.
jim booth, lansing, mi kbooth@waverly.k12.mi.us
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 00:06:28 -0800
From: Scott Murman <smurman@best.com>
Subject: Re: Canning in beer bottles
On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 10:07:41 -0800 George De Piro wrote:
>
> CD Pritchard writes about canning wort in beer bottles. He was
> wondering about the integrity of the cap liners after boiling. As
> some of you have read in the past, I sterilize my chiller and save
> sterile wort in beer bottles by running hot wort through my
> counterflow chiller (with no water running through it!) at the end of
> the boil. I then seal the bottles and lay them on their side, so as
> to ensure that the entire interior is in contact with the 200+F wort.
George and others, I think you may be taking deadly serious risks
here. Canning or preserving safely is a combination of proper heat
and proper pH. Foods which have a pH below around 4.6 can be canned
using only a boiling water bath, but foods with a pH above 4.6 must be
canned using a high pressure canner with about 10 lbs. of pressure.
Almost all worts will have a pH of over 5.0, and hence should only be
pressure canned. All canning jars should also have the proper seals,
bottle caps are not sufficient. If you do not achieve a temperature
of around 240F at sea level with low-acid foods, such as wort, you run
the risk of "awakening" the botulism spores in your wort. Botulism is
a very deadly nerve toxin which will kill you very dead, very quickly.
If you don't have a pressure canner do not fuck around with home
canning wort, it's not worth the risk. Just because you haven't had a
problem so far is no guarantee that you won't on your next batch.
SM
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 06:41:14 +0000
From: "Mike Kidulich" <mjkid@ix22.ix.netcom.com>
Subject: JS EM fix
From: Todd Bruce <tbruce@webbert.sdc.cio.eds.com>
Subject: Easymasher quirks solved
>>I've been using JM Easymasher(tm) in my mash tun for some time now and
I'm very happy with its performance. I have experienced clear running
wort with only 8oz of recirculation and have never had a stuck sparge.
But.. like many before me, I was frustrated with the air bubbles forming
in the hose because of the "ridge" on the tap. Also, I had a hard time
adjusting the outflow especially when the tap was hot from heating.
I've solved these quirks by replacing the tap with a 1/4" ball valve and
a hose barb for about $10. Following is the materials list if your
interested:<<
I had similar problems, i.e., the air leaks and flow adjustment. I
solved the air leak by filing off the ridge with the file on my trusty Swiss
Army knife. Also, I alleviated the adjustment difficulty by using a
small pair of Vice Grips to grip the handle. Gives much finer control
of the flow, and is quick and easy.
(Note: Do not leave the vice grips on the valve while boiling!)
Mike Kidulich
mjkid@ix.netcom.com mjk@rfc.comm.harris.com
DNRC Minister of Home Brewing, Relaxation, and Really Cool Toys
Holder of Previous Knowledge O-
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 97 07:27:20 EST
From: motten@fcmc.com ([Michael Otten])
Subject: Best temp for Cold Break?
At what temperature "should" the wort be chilled down to to achieve the
most efficient cold break? I have a 2 tier, 3 converted keg set up
with an "in-line" counterflow chiller which works quite well. I was
wondering if it would be worth it for me to chill the wort as much as
possible to achieve as much cold break as possible, then run the wort
back through the chiller (except this time the surrounding water will
be from the hot water vessel) to bring the temp up to pitching temps.
Has anyone done this? Is it worth it for me to make the changes?
TIA
Mike Otten
motten@fcmc.com
East Islip, NY
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 08:02:08 EST
From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford@e-mail.com>
Subject: Water Filtration/Water Analysis
Jim McNealy Writes
>I would like to have a setup that could attach to my kitchen faucet,
>pass the water through a filter (i.e. inline ice maker filter), and on
>to the fermenter. Does anyone have, or have seen, such a thing?
Williams Brewing (800-759-6025 in CA) Carries some great hardware for doing
what you want.
#E65 Sink adapter - similar to the adapters you use for portable dishwashers
#E66 snaps onto this adapter and has a 3/8" hose barb on a swivel, this is
what you would use to attatch a hose to a water filter, runs around $19
#E91 Converts a garden hose to a snap lock fitting for this adapter
Not affiliated with Williams, just a LONG time satisfied customer!
Regards,_Rich Byrnes Jr
Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen \\\|///
phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520_______o000_(.) (.)_000o
rbyrnes2.ford@e-mail.com (_)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 08:56:53 -0500
From: Carrick Legrismith <hiscope@c4systm.com>
Subject: Oatmeal Stout
Edwin K. Thompson asked:
By the way does someone have a good, partial mash, recipe for an oatmeal
stout...
We Just finished a really good one which has roots in two commercial
stouts, Mackeson and Samuel Smith's Oatmeal. Maybe it is a good time to
start all-grain brewing. This is worth it, and simple to create.
Brake-fast Stout
Batch size: 12.0
Boil size: 14.5 Gallons
Brewer: Poison Ivy Brewery
Style: Sweet Stout
Date Gravity/Plato
Brewing: 01/12/97 1.060 14.7
Racking: 01/20/97 1.020 5.1
Bottling: 02/02/97 1.020 5.1
Alcohol: 4.2% (w/w)
Alcohol: 5.3% (v/v)
Ingredients:
2-row 18.0 pounds 1.054 S.G. 3.0 SRM 60 min mash
Chocolate 2.0 pounds 1.000 S.G. 66.7 SRM 60 min mash
Black Patent 0.5 pounds 1.000 S.G. 20.8 SRM 60 min mash
Precooked Oats 2.0 pounds 1.006 S.G. 0.3 SRM 60 min mash
Chinook 1.0 ounces 60 min 12.9 % AA 21.1 ibu leaf
Lactose 1.0
Irish Moss 2.0 tsp
Wyeast #1084 Irish Ale
Water Treatment:
Ions Boil Target Difference
Ca 97 87 10
Na 15 15 0
Mg 9 5 4
Cl 23 24 -1
CO3 126 130 -4
SO4 68 72 -4
Salts used:
Canning Salt 2.2 grams
Epsom Salt 5.4 grams
Chalk 12.0 grams
Gypsum 3.2 grams
Mash:
Cook oatmeal. Start mash at 110f raise to 152f and hold 60 minutes or
conversion. Mash out at 170f for ten minutes. My grain bill is based on a
92% extraction rate.
Boil: 75 minutes
Primary fermentation: Stainless Steel
Secondary Fermentation: 6 Gallon Carboy 2x
Primed with: 15lbs@40f CO2
Changes next time:
Cut lactose to .75 lb
Carrick Legrismith
Poison Ivy Brewery
Clinton, Michigan
"You'll be itching for another"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 07:46:44 -0700 (MST)
From: "R. Wayne McCorkle" <wmccorkl@psl.nmsu.edu>
Subject: Mash/Lauter tun manifold
I have finally had the time to construct my mash/later tun. I am using a
48 quart Coleman cooler. The manifold is rectangular, with a pipe down
the middle as well. I suppose an ASCII drawing might help ...
+-------------------------------------+
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My question concerns the material. I went with 1/2" PVS pipe. In order to
clean the exterior of the pipe (cleaning to get dirt as well as the blue
lettering off), I used some cleaning solution I picked up at the hardware
store. I told the guy this was going to be used in a food application,
and he said that as long as I washed with soap and water afterward, it
would be ok. The solution seems to be mostly alcohol, but has quite a
powerful smell. The smell seems to have left the pipe. I am still
concerned though, about having used this. Additionally, it did not quite
get all the lettering off. Any comments about using or not using this
manifold.
Thanks,
Wayne
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| R. Wayne McCorkle Voice: (505) 522-9236 |
| New Mexico State University Fax: (505) 522-9389 |
| Physical Science Laboratory Email: wmccorkl@psl.nmsu.edu |
| Computation and Simulation Division URL: http://essex.nmsu.edu/~rmccorkl |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 07:02:42 -0800
From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter@camasnet.com>
Subject: re: lactic acid
>So I picked up some lactic to keep my sparge water at a reasonable pH.
>The thing is, i don't know how much to use per x-amount of water.
It all depends on the pH of your tap water. I use 1/2 teaspoon of 88%
lactic acid to reduce 5 gallons of sparge water to a pH of 5.7. I
determined this through trial and error - adding a little bit of lactic
acid at a time while checking the pH. My tap water pH seems to vary
slightly over the year so I don't just assume that 1/2 teaspoon is the
right amount - I always check the pH.
Dan Ritter <ritter@camasnet.com>
Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery
Grangeville, Idaho
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 97 10:15:33 EST
From: Eric Peters <epeters@rtp.semi.harris.com>
Subject: RE: Inverted Fermentation
>From: Ganister Fields Architects <gfarch@tiac.net>
>
>Stuart writes in HBD #2334
>
><In my quest to eliminate the secondary fermentation and cut down on
>washing up and other labor I am going to try inverted fermentation.
>Can anyone offer some advice? Pros and cons? >
>
>Save your time and money Stuart. A neat idea, especially for lagers but
>the slope of the carboy shoulders is not great enough to purge off the
>yeast. The whole setup is more trouble than it is worth. I know because I
>tried it with limited success. The best thing that came out of my
>investment is a spare racking tube and a nifty stand to dry my carboys.
I've had four inverted fermenters in continuous use for over three years.
My experience is the exact opposite of the Ganister and Fields architectural
firm. My carboys rest on lazy-susan bearings, ~$2 at the local hdwr store.
Wiggle the bearing, sediment slides into neck. That easy.
So Stuart, YMMV.
I'll be reverting to upright fermentation soon for twenty gallon batches,
and I'll miss the inverted carboys. They've certainly made things easier.
Eric Peters
Durham, NC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:29:18 -0500 (EST)
From: ELVIS942@aol.com
Subject: lack of carbonation
I recently brewed a 5 gallon batch of a very tasty nut brown ale that was put
into 4 1.3 gallon kegs and primed with corn sugar for carbonation. The first
keg we tapped and drank out of was wonderful, the second keg was completely,
and I do mean completely flat- no carbonation at all. Any ideas as to what
happened? Any tips on getting that keg carbonated? I would hate to throw it
out. I'm new at this so any tips would be much appreciated. Also, unrelated
to the first question, I know that you should aerate the wort and pitch the
yeast with lots of oxygen present, but I don't understand why when you prime
and bottle that aeration is bad..... answers? Thanks- Matt Walsh
e-mail: elvis942@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:06:33 -0600
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: Stones in my beer
From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nkanous@tir.com>
...The package recommends to avoid handling the stone with your hands
because oils in the skin can actually clog the stone. How
aboutlipids/break/yeast/etc. in my wort? Will this clog my stone forever
once I retrieve it? Anybody else managed to do this?...
How is it that bacteria can "hide in the scratches and avoid sanitation"
when we are talking about plastic fermenters, but with airstones on the
other hand we sometimes seem to be blindsighted to the same issue?
Am I missing something here? Is this a case see no evil, hear no evil,
speak no evil?
C'mon 'big heads' - what gives? Enlighten us please.
Happy Brewing
Ron
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:59:00 -0600 (CST)
From: Frosty <frosty@cstar.ac.com>
Subject: Brew Kettle Questions
Hello Fellow Brewers!
I am looking for a new brew pot. I have a SS 5 gallon pot now for my
extract batches and an 8 gallon enamal on steel (blackish with white
speckles). I want to get a new 8-10 gallon SS pot but I have a few
questions:
1) How much. I read about some on the hoptech homepage. They had a
Vollrath 38.5 qt (9.6 gal) for $170. This is kind of expensive, but I do
want quality. This will last a long time. (well, it should). Any other
suggestions?
2) Can I heat this new pot (whatever it is) on the stove. I have a
standard gas stove? I do not want to but a propage "burner" just to heat
this sucker unless I have to.
3) How easy is it to convert this to the easymash system. I have been
reading the threads about drilling stainless, and it doesn't seem to
hard...*swallow* It will be scary if I pay > $150 for a brewpot.
4) Do you ever take out the easymasher. Is is now a permenant part of
your brewpot? What if you want to go back and do a quickie extract batch?
Does it just sit in there doing no harm?
5) Is the easymasher hard to clean.
6) What about hops. Do they get stuck down there? Pellets?
Whew! That is a mouthfull. Any help you give would be greatly
appreciated.
Hoppy Brewing,
Frosty
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 11:26:33 -0600 (CST)
From: snsi@win.bright.net (Jeff Smith)
Subject: Re: Bulk Malt Extract
Howdy HBDers,
Richard D. Cuff wrote regarding the Malt Products Corp:
First let me say that this looks more like an AD than a post. In the post
Richard goes on to say:
>The message thread back in November mentioned there were no issues
>regarding storage; some suggested spraying vodka on the surface of the
>extract as a precaution. General opinion was that concentrated extract
>was inhospitable to bacteria.
Bad news here. I have seen yeast (read this to be yeast or bacteria, I
didn't test it) grow in malt extract. Over two years ago I split a "case"
of malt extract from James Page in the Twin Cities with my bother in law.
With a week a got a call from my bother in law asking if my bags of malt
were swelling up and that his had blown up like a balloon. As of that day
they had not but they had developed a white froth on them. By the next time
I brewed the packs had swollen and when opened it had a sickening yeasty
smell. Though the LME did have a slight "stale/old" flavor it wasn't strong
enough to come through in a dark beer, which is what I started making.
Two other thing if you brew a batch of beer once a month and use 6lbs in it
that last batch of LME will be 10 months old and could be stale. I also
know two people how have bought 60lb buckets of LME only to open them up one
day to find mold growing on it.
I do know people how have bought 60lb buckets and had no problems. I just
want to point out that this is not problem free. Think carefully before
spending $65 plus shipping.
PS "spraying vodka on the surface of the extract as a precaution" won't do
much but make you feel better.
PPS If this is an AD it has on business on the HBD.
Jeff Smith | '71 HD Sprint 350SX, Temp '77 GS 400 X
snsi@win.bright.net | Barnes, WI
I am so pleased that the mead is brewed!-Jane Austen
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:28:47 -0700 (MST)
From: jac@access.usa.net (John A. Carlson, Jr.)
Subject: 8th Annual Dredhop Homebrew Contest
8th Annual Reggale & Dredhop Homebrew Competition
Hop Barley & The Alers invites you to enter the 8th Annual Reggale &
Dredhop Homebrew Competition. We will accept all homebrewed beer and mead.
This competition is AHA sanctioned and will have twelve categories. Medals
will be awarded to 1st place entries in each Category. Ribbons will be
awarded to 2nd and 3rd place in each Category. Ribbons for Best of Show in
Beer and Mead will be awarded. Prizes will also be awarded. The first place
winner in the Brown Ale Category will be selected to work with the Brewers
at the One Keg Brew House to scale up their recipe and brew it! The beer
will be sold to Old Chicago's. Check out more details about the Dredhop on
the web at: http://members.aol.com/hopbarley/index.html or contact Bob
Kauffman at 303-828-1237
Rules & Regulations
Eligibility All entries should be handcrafted products, containing
ingredients available to the general public.
Categories Each beer will be judged according to the 1997 AHA national
homebrew competition classification it is entered under. Beers of similar
styles will be grouped together to allow for manageable judging sessions
and reasonable competition. First place winners in each Category will be
judged in a final round to determine the Best of Show beer and Best of Show
mead. An entry shall consist of two bottles, 10 - 22 ounce, clean of all
paper or printed or enameled labels, label adhesive, misc. debris, raised
designs or brand names, or any other distinguishing features. Clear glass,
wire swing-top (Gr=F6lsh) type, corked, and oversized (22 oz, champagne) are
acceptable. Printed crown caps are acceptable but must be blacked out
completely with black marker to assure anonymity. Bottles will not be
returned to entrants.
Paperwork Each bottle shall have an bottle ID form attached with a rubber
band. Glue or tape are unacceptable. A single recipe form must accompany
each entry (one recipe form per 2 bottles, one bottle ID form per bottle).
Enter your beer according to the 1997 AHA national homebrew competition
styles -- a chart of these classifications is attached. Please fill out the
entry forms completely. Be meticulous about noting special ingredients you
want brought to the judges attention when entering categories 3c, 20b, 20c,
21, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27.
Limitations Brewers are limited to one entry per AHA subcategory.
Entry Fees An entry fee of $4 per entry will be collected on the first two
entries (1&2). Additional entries (3 thru ?) will be $3 per entry. Attach
it to the Entry and Recipe form. Make checks payable to: Hop Barley & the
Alers. PLEASE INCLUDE ONE SELF ADDRESSED STAMPED BUSINESS SIZE ENVELOPE
=46OR EACH ENTRY SUBMITTED.
The Fine Print
Disqualified beers may be judged but will not be eligible for awards. The
judges may decide to not award all places in any Category. The decision of
the judges is final. The Best Brown Ale winner must be available to work
with the One Keg Brew House (i.e. live in Colorado).
Where To Enter
Entries are to arrive between Friday February 14, 1997 and 5:00 p.m. Friday
=46ebruary 21, 1997. Late entries will neither be returned nor judged. To
minimize the impact on the businesses accepting entries please have a check
or the exact change attached to your recipe forms.
What's Brewing - Boulder What's Brewing - Longmont
(use this site if mailing in your entry) 1011 Main Street
2886 Bluff Street Longmont, CO 80501
Bolder, CO 80301 (303) 772-8363
(303) 444-9433 Wine & Hop Shop HomeBrew Hut
Brew Ha Ha 705 E. 6th Ave. 555
Hwy. 287 Unit I
708 8th Street Denver, CO 80203
Broomfield, CO 80020
Greely, CO 80631 (303) 831-7229
(303) 460-1776
(970) 356-1566
Judging
The judging will take place from 9:00 am - 5:00 p.m. on Saturday, March 1,
1997 at the Old Chicago restaurant in Boulder. The Best Brown Ale will be
brewed at the One Keg Brew House Brewpub to be sold at Old Chicago's
throughout the Front Range. Judging information has been sent to area BJCP
judges. If you are not a registered BJCP judge, and would like to judge at
the competition please contact John Carlson at jac@usa.net. Stewards and
apprentice judges are always welcome.
Awards Ceremony & Celebration
An awards ceremony will start around 6:00 p.m. on Saturday March 1 at the
Boulder Old Chicago. Please attend! Medals, Ribbons and prizes will be
handed out. Food and beer will be available.
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2338, 02/06/97
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