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HOMEBREW Digest #2300
HOMEBREW Digest #2300 Fri 03 January 1997
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@brew.oeonline.com
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
Re: DMS...
Re: PH meter and Temp. probe in single unit?
Re: Iodophor/Bleach
Re: PH meter and Temp. probe in single unit?
Propane gas regulators
Priming and Bottling
Brewing Techniques Subscr. info
Clearing problem
CO2 bottles, Carbonoation and Corny kegs
Free Range Chimay Ranching in Europa
Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #19
Splitting CO2 Lines
Re: Hop Rhizomes
Re: Short, intense ferment
splitting gas lines
Re: Iodophor/Bleach
Re: The meaning of Light
Bottling Time?
Water Chemistry vs. Love
Re: Priming and Bottling
First all-grain (Darrin P.)
Author line, Jim Cave
re: First all-grain (Darrin P.)
re: keeping the hops out of the fermenter
Kettle mashing.
decanting of yeast to culture question
Re: RIMS pump speed control
Re: RIMS pump speed control
Pale Ale Recipe comments?
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 18:17:36 -0500
From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Subject: Re: DMS...
At 14:09 02/01/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Jean-Sebastien--
>>door closed. :-) I don't "mash-out" since I use a Gott cooler to mash, so
>>I've been wondering about DMS levels. The wort will be sitting in a bucket
>>for about an hour while I sparge. Can anyone see a problem with this?
>
>Don't worry about DMS... any that got created would be boiled-off during
>the boil. The concern is *after* the boil if it sits around for a long
>time above 158F (70C?). You *should* worry about HSA however... don't
>splash the wort as you put it in the kettle. The easiest thing to do
>would be to put a stopcock and hose on the bucket that is collecting
>the wort.
Well, I don't know what a stopcock is (sounds mildly sexual...), but I was
planning on using a 1/2" spigot/tubing assembly to quickly transfer the
wort from the bucket to the kettle, avoiding HSA. :-) I'm glad to hear any
accumulated DMS will evaporate, although now I'm a little concerned with
enzyme activity while the wort sits around. <grin> Oh, and I use a CF
chiller so DMS isn't a problem once the boil is complete....
Thank!
js.
- --
Jean-Sebastien Morisset, Sc. Unix Administrator <mailto:jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Bell Canada, Routing and Trunking Asignments <http://www.bell.ca>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 18:29:54 -0500
From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Subject: Re: PH meter and Temp. probe in single unit?
At 17:51 02/01/97 EST, you wrote:
>>
>>From what I've read, several PH meters compensate for temperature. Do
these PH
>>meters also display the temp.? I've been thinking of buying a temp. probe
and
>>PH meter, but if I can get both in one unit.... Anyone know of some good
>>models?
>
>I have a Newport combination digital pH meter and thermometer (sorry, don't
>have the model number handy). It's a nice pH meter, because it temperature
>compenstates to 70C (158F, perfect for mashing), where many only go to 50C.
>However, I don't recommend it as a thermometer because it takes too darn long
>for the temperature reading to settle. Like 30-60 seconds long. I want to
>know the temperature *now*. So I also use a quality, quick-reading digital
>and/or analog thermometer (I've got a few; I like gadgets).
Thanks! So, what I'm looking for is a PH meter w/ temp. compensation to
70C+, which gives a temp. reading fast (5 secs?), and displays the temp. in
C/F. Should I be looking for anything else which may be useful?
Thanks,
js.
- --
Jean-Sebastien Morisset, Sc. Unix Administrator <mailto:jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Bell Canada, Routing and Trunking Asignments <http://www.bell.ca>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 18:11:31 -0500
From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Subject: Re: Iodophor/Bleach
At 15:54 02/01/97 -0500, Gerald J. Ginty wrote:
>I have seen quit a few references to the use of iodophor. I have been
>using bleach to clean for all of my brewing and bottling equipment.
>In an effort to the clean up my act , so to speak, I was wondering
>if there were any benefits to using iodophor over bleach or a combination
>of both. In a recent positing, it was explained that this iodophor stuff
>was a sanitizer.
>
>Basically, would bleach perform to same task, or is peferable to use both
Bleach will oxydize most metals, including Stainless-Steel and Copper which
are used very often in all-grain systems. If you want to sanitize metals,
the prefered sanitizer is usually Iodophor. It isn't dangerous, doesn't
cost much (although bleach is cheaper), and is easy to use. Typically, the
dilution is 1 tsp. for 5 gals of cold water. This will sanitize in about 30
mins, although you can use higher concentrations to sanitize in 30 secs.
I've used this higher concentration in a spray bottle (Windex type) to
clean my work area and odds-n'-ends I sometimes forget to soak. :-)
If you're only using plastic, bleach is probably just as good, although you
have to be careful not to splash it around! <grin> Iodophor won't damage
clothing like bleach, but it does have a tendancy to stain plastics when
used at higher concentrations. You should always add Iodophor after your
bucket is filled with water. If you do it the other way around, the bottom
of your bucket will be stained yellow. :-)
I use one or the other, depending on what I'm sanitizing...
later!
js.
- --
Jean-Sebastien Morisset, Sc. Unix Administrator <mailto:jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Bell Canada, Routing and Trunking Asignments <http://www.bell.ca>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 97 17:51:25 EST
From: Brew Free Or Die 02-Jan-1997 1738 <hall@buffa.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Re: PH meter and Temp. probe in single unit?
In Homebrew Digest V2 #18, Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca> writes:
>Subject: PH meter and Temp. probe in single unit?
>From what I've read, several PH meters compensate for temperature. Do these PH
>meters also display the temp.? I've been thinking of buying a temp. probe and
>PH meter, but if I can get both in one unit.... Anyone know of some good
>models?
I have a Newport combination digital pH meter and thermometer (sorry, don't
have the model number handy). It's a nice pH meter, because it temperature
compenstates to 70C (158F, perfect for mashing), where many only go to 50C.
However, I don't recommend it as a thermometer because it takes too darn long
for the temperature reading to settle. Like 30-60 seconds long. I want to
know the temperature *now*. So I also use a quality, quick-reading digital
and/or analog thermometer (I've got a few; I like gadgets).
- --
Dan Hall Digital Equipment Corporation MKO1-2/L09 Merrimack, NH 03054
hall@buffa.enet.dec.com (603) 884-5879
"Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot
Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat" --David Geary
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 16:15:11 -0800
From: Kelly Jones <kejones@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Propane gas regulators
I fired up a new brew system for the first time yesterday. The burners
are 160K BTU Brinkman ring burners, burning propane. I used a
regulator/hose assembly that came with a propane space heater.
The problem is, I got nowhere near 160K BTU from these things, even with
the control valve wide open. In fact, I could barely maintain a boil in
a 10 gal batch (something I was able to do easily with a 30K BTU natural
gas burner).
I'm wondering if the pressure regulator is not the right one. Are there
different pressures at which LPG is used, or are all LPG regulators set
to the same value?
Has anyone else had similar problems with the Brinkman burners?
Thanks for any help,
Kelly
Hillsboro, OR
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 17:55:23 -0600
From: Tim DiAna <tdiana@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Priming and Bottling
I am getting ready to bottle my first batch and I've read a couple of
different sources that said 1 tsp sugar per is bottle is not recommended
and that I should 3/4 cup of sugar in some water, how much?, and pour
this into my bottling bucket and then siphon the beer into the bottling
bucket. Does it make any difference which method I use or is there a
better method out there.
Thanks Tim
- --
"I walked out of work and I was tired as hell
another day come and gone, oh well,
somewhere there's a drink with my name on it"
Paul Westerberg
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 21:21:57 -0500
From: BernardCh@aol.com
Subject: Brewing Techniques Subscr. info
Can somebody pelase E-mail me either an address or telephone number to
subscrbe to Brewing Techniques magazine. Also what's the annual rate and
frequency.
thanks
Chuck
BernardCh@aol.com
Music City Brewers, Nashville, TN - Music City USA
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 10:06:00 -0000
From: Graham Stone <gstone@dtuk.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Clearing problem
Before Christmas I brewed 2 x 5 gal. batches of pale ale on consecutive
weekends to be ready for 15 Dec. and 22nd Dec. Both recipes were identical
(4kg Maris Otter, Challenger/EKG, yeast salvaged from bottled Hopback
Summer Lightning) with the exception that the second batch had 1% chocolate
malt added. Both batches were fermented at 18-22C for 1 week before being
transferred to a secondary and fermented for a further 1 week. Both
batches were then transferred to kegs, had isinglass finings (Richie
Products) added to the makers recommended dosage, dry hopped with a
generous handful of EKG and conditioned at 10-15C for 4 weeks before
sampling.
The first batch was nothing like clear by the 15th Dec. but the second
batch (supposed to be ready a week later) was already pretty clear. Both
batches tasted good but the unclear one tasted pretty yeasty. By the time
the second batch was supposed to be ready it tasted great (no yeastyness)
and was nice and clear. However, the first batch had still not cleared and
did not clear even when left a further 2 weeks. Eventually, I filtered it.
Now both batches were perfectly clear and both tasted great.
There is only one other difference between the 2 batches. The one which
cleared was kegged in a spherical Beer Sphere (don't know the maker) whilst
the one which remained cloudy was in a typical UK home brew keg which is
like a vertically oriented traditional barrel (or pin, I suppose). There
is a big difference between the height of the beer from top to bottom of
these two containers. Could this account for should a phenomenon? Can
anyone help? Any other tips on getting beer bright? How long do
commercial breweries condition and fine real/cask conditioned ales?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 10:37:55 -0000
From: Graham Stone <gstone@dtuk.demon.co.uk>
Subject: CO2 bottles, Carbonoation and Corny kegs
Here in the UK I don't think there are too many brewers who use Corny kegs
(The Homebrew Shop in Farnborough, Surrey* got me mine - no affil.....,
blah, blah, blah...). We also have a major problem getting hold of
reasonable size CO2 bottles. The home brew shops all sell small Soda
Stream size (1'x2") bottles but it appears impossible to get hold of larger
bottles (e.g. 15 lb +). One of the countries largest gas suppliers told me
that it was illegal for a private individual to own a larger CO2 bottle on
grounds of safety etc. If this is true, it's absurd! In my brewery I also
have the remains of my SCUBA equipment which includes a 60 cu.ft air
bottle. I understand that the bottles would have to be pressure checked
from time to time and that if they fail you don't get them back - fine!
Can anybody in the UK tell me how I can legally get hold of a reasonable
size CO2 bottle which I can also readily get tested and filled?
Next. Given that my Corny key is fitted directly with a pressure gauge
which goes up to a max. of 30psi and that my gas bottle screws directly
onto a value fitted through the oval lid to the keg, how can I adequately
carbonate my lager (which is filtered, by the way) and how long will the
process take? My keg is kept in the fridge @ 3-10C and I've tried the
shaking trick and also inverting the keg before injecting the gas (which
worries me in case beer gets pushed into the pressure gauge). Both methods
do add some carbonation but only really when the keg is half empty. I'm
looking to carbonate the beer fairly generously even when the keg is full.
Any good techniques?
TIA
Portsmouth, UK
*Danny@deegee.demon.co.uk
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 08:56:51 -0100
From: "FCC(SW) Moore" <moorere@nassau.navy.mil>
Subject: Free Range Chimay Ranching in Europa
A question for yeast ranchers -
I am currently in Europe, and have been drinking 9% Chimays and other
fine brews of note, and had an idea - GET THE YEAST! I am having the
same idea with several of the draught wiesens that are available here.
I am rather inexperienced in such things, but I have access to a
culture disk, agar, and a cotton swab. The Chimay is marked as being
made in '95 and good 'til 2001. The questions:
1. Can I do this with what I have?
2. Is the Chimay too old?
3. Is the wiesen yeast that provides the banana/clove profile still
viable when on draught?
Thanks all!
Rich Moore
Interesting Saying of the Day:
The man who doesn't read good books has no advantage
over the man who can't read them.
Mark Twain (1835-1910)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 07:13:40 -0600
From: Paul Henning <phenning@cs.uiowa.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #19
AlK writes:
> I've since put ball valves on both my kettles and put something very
> much like an EasyMasher(tm) screen inside. This setup clogs with
> pellets almost immediately, so I have switched to whole hops and now
> I lose a bit more wort because I immersion chill and don't want
> to...
I finally had the bright idea to use this method on my last batch with
my EM setup, also using an immersion chiller and whole hops. Two
questions about this:
(1) Do you whirlpool the wort? The only benefit I could see to doing
this would be to increase the depth of the "trub-bed" over the EM
screen.
(2) This probably sounds crazy, but do you recirculate at all? It
seems that you would be increasing your chances of infection for
little gain, but I just had to finish the mashing analogy.
Cheers!
- ---
Paul Henning | The truth is
http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~phenning | out there.
phenning@cs.uiowa.edu (finger for PGP public key) | Linux.
"Make good money, $5 a day; Made any more, I might move away..."
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 97 08:19:21 EST
From: gravels@TRISMTP.NPT.nuwc.navy.mil
Subject: Splitting CO2 Lines
Hi All,
Someone was recently talking about splitting their CO 2 lines:
>I'm going to have a two tap tower (say that 3 times
>fast) on a chest freezer so I obviously need something to split the
>CO2 output to the two kegs. I also plan on bottling sometimes using
>a counter pressure filler so I'll need a CO2 line for that also.
Here's what I do, I have a T that splits off just out of the regulator
with a quick disconnect (QD) fitting attached. This is the female air
system QD, I picked this up along with several fittings at a discount
store for under three dollars. I have a rig that I made up with an
air chuck on one end and a male QD on the other. This rig is used for
pressurizing PET bottles and for use with my homemade counter pressure
bottle filler.
For the PET bottles, I drilled several of the plastic caps and
inserted stainless steel tire stems (replaced the rubber seals with
o-rings) into the caps and I now pressurize without the help of The
Carbonator. I had a carbonator that spit it's guts into my beer. :^(
This one is cheaper to boot. (Thanks Jeff!)
For the counter pressure bottle filler I took an 18 inch racking cane,
#2 drilled rubber stopper, an air needle (the type used to fill
footballs) and a plastic tire stem extension. Place the rubber
stopper on the end of the racking cane, drill a hole the size of the
needle from the bottom of the stopper, insert the needle and attach
the plastic tire stem extension. You now have an inexpensive and
easily held and handled counter pressure bottle filler. It works
great! I found this idea at The Brewery, sorry, I don't remember who
the author was.
In line after the first T is a hard plastic valve that allows me to
isolate my kegs while I increase the pressure for the PET bottles. I
can also use the valve on the regulator to isolate the kegs and bleed
them off using the air chuck. My air line then goes into the fridge
(not frig ;^) that's an activity) where it T's off to two kegs.
If anyone has any questions feel free to send e-mail.
Steve Gravel Newport, Rhode Island
gravels@trismtp.npt.nuwc.navy.mil
"Homebrew, it's not just a hobby, it's an adventure!"
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 03 Jan 97 08:40:29 EST
From: aesoph@ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael)
Subject: Re: Hop Rhizomes
Orval:
> I'm ready to try growing some hops in my side pasture. Where can I get
> the rhizomes? Do you have the name and number for West Coast suppliers?
I've got 3 (out of 8 original) hop plants started in my living room.
They don't seem to take well to indoor life. Anyway, I did an extensive
search for hop Rhizomes recently and here are the results.
Also, Freshops has a nice web page at ...
http://www.teleport.com/~repmail/freshops.html
Semplex of USA in MN
Phone # 1 612 522 0500
Fax # 1 612 522 0579
The Brew Club
Santa Cruz, CA
1-800-995-2739
Great Fermentations of Marin
San Rafael, CA
1-800-570-BEER
The Cellar Homebrew
Seattle, WA
1-800-342-1871
South Bay Homebrew Supply
Torrance, CA
1-800-608-BREW
Freshops,
Philomath, Oregon
(800) 460-6925
Henry Field's
Seed & Nursery Co.
415 North Burnett
Shenandoah, Iowa 51602
Phone: 605-665-4491
Fax: 605-665-2601
Gurney's
Seed & Nursery Co.
110 Capital Street
Yankton, South Dakota 57079
Phone: 605-665-1671
Fax: 605-665-9718
Hopunion USA, Inc.
Hops Growing and Processing
Yakima, WA
(509) 457-3200
==================================================
Michael D. Aesoph Associate Engineer
==================================================
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 08:47:57 -0600
From: Cory Wright <cwright@sun1.anza.com>
Subject: Re: Short, intense ferment
Michael Aesoph wrote:
>
The fermentation was extreme - a fierce, continuous expulsion of gas from
the fermenter - but it didn't even last one day and now appears to be done.
I know this is not normal, but is it
acceptable??? I've never seen a fermenation this short before. Is it
stuck perhaps??????
>
You're right, it's not normal, but I would venture that it's not
impossible, either. Have you checked the specific gravity? How does it
compare to the starting gravity? If it is at an acceptably low level, let
it sit for a few days and measure again. If you see no change, assume it's
done and bottle as normal (or transfer to secondary if this is your norm).
What, no hyrdrometer? Get one! Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Cory
cwright@midcom.anza.com
R&D engineer/ Webmaster by default
Midcom, Inc.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 08:12:55 -0700
From: Steve kemp <stevek@propwash.co.symbios.com>
Subject: splitting gas lines
Robert DeNeefe writes:
>I've been saving my pennies and I'm now ready to start putting together
>a kegging system. I'm going to have a two tap tower (say that 3 times
>fast) on a chest freezer so I obviously need something to split the CO2
>output to the two kegs. I also plan on bottling sometimes using a
>counter pressure filler so I'll need a CO2 line for that also.
Foxx Equipment (no affilliation blah blah) sells manifolds just for that
purpose. They come with a valve on each output which has a backflow
preventer in it. These things are great. The shutoff/backflow valves
allow you to pressurize kegs to different pressures. Believe they come
in 2,3,or 4 outputs and if I remember correctly the 2 output goes for
about $20 or get a 3 output and have an extra line for other uses. If
you build your own keep in mind the shutoff/backflow valves as it's nice
to be able to carbonate different styles of brews differently,
or be force carbonating one keg at 30 lbs while keeping another around
12 lbs for serving.
Happy brewing in '97!
Steve Kemp
Owner, Operator, Master Taster - Horseshoe Breweries
Loveland Colorado.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 10:23:46 -0500
From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Subject: Re: Iodophor/Bleach
At 18:11 02/01/97 -0500, Jean-Sebastien Morisset wrote:
>
>the prefered sanitizer is usually Iodophor. It isn't dangerous, doesn't
>cost much (although bleach is cheaper), and is easy to use. Typically, the
>dilution is 1 tsp. for 5 gals of cold water. This will sanitize in about 30
>mins, although you can use higher concentrations to sanitize in 30 secs.
Correction: The proper dilution is 1 tbsp (15 ml) per 5 gals, NOT 1 tsp (5
ml)!
Good thing I re-read my message this morning.... ugh.
later!
js.
- --
Jean-Sebastien Morisset, Sc. Unix Administrator <mailto:jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Bell Canada, Routing and Trunking Asignments <http://www.bell.ca>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 03 Jan 97 10:22:03 EST
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: The meaning of Light
Brewsters:
Kevin Sinn of Windsor Ontario wrote:
> Also, I recently brewed what was supposed to be a red ale, using 2 cans of
> Coopers light unhopped extract. When I opened the cans, I was very
> surprised to see that the extract was a dark, reddish colour. It smelled
> and tasted fine. I was able to read a packaging date from the top of one
> of the cans, and it was July, 1995. Could the extract darken in the can
> over this period of time?
>
Kevin,
One of the mysteries of brewing is the names associated with the various color
beers. I mean you wouldn't call an IPA "pale" would you? Likewise, in my early
days of brewing with Blue Ribbon Malt Extract, I was constantly perplexed at
trying to figure out Pale, Extra Pale, Light, etc. So I finally realized it is
all relative and depended on the current beer drinking habits when a particular
style of beer was brewed and named for the first time. Light is darker than Pale
and Light can be used to make a Pale ale ( which is darker than the American
Pale) type of brew. All Better Now? I didn't think so. The can of Malt
extract you got was probably just fine and hadn't darkened excessively in the
can.
Remember Light is dark and Pale is light.
Happy New Year and
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
Voice e-mail OK
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 09:21:05 -0600
From: David Burki <davidb@pdainc.com>
Subject: Bottling Time?
On New Years Day, I brewed my second batch. As a novice that's been =
lurking for a couple of months I have a question. I brewed from a kit =
(American Micro Style) obtained at my local homebrew store. I followed =
the instructions (except I pitched 2 packets of Muntons dry yeast =
instead of just 1) and all went well. Fermentation began within 6 hours =
and was vigorous for about 18+ hours. When I got home from work =
yesterday (30 hr. after pitching) there was no sign of active =
fermentation. Temp has remained pretty constant at 70 deg. I was =
rushed towards the end and neglected to take a SG reading, so I can't =
give you that. What's the deal here? Have I got a stuck fermentation =
or am I just paranoid? My first batch (purely extract) went OK, just =
very little carbonation after 3+ weeks in the bottle so I'm anxious for =
this batch to be "perfect". Any thoughts/comments appreciated. TIA
BTW the instructions indicate fermentation should last "3 to 7 days" and =
bottle when FG is 1.005 - 1.010. Ingredients included 3.3 lb. LME, 2 =
lb. DME, 12 oz crushed crystal grain plus bittering and finishing hops.
David
The (fledgling) Long Draw Brewery
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 09:36:08 -0600
From: Mike Urseth <beernote@realbeer.com>
Subject: Water Chemistry vs. Love
A brewing/relationship quandry has reared its ugly head.
My sweetie want me to move into her country home. It's an older farmhouse
in the wilds of Wisconsin. My concern is the water. It seems to be hard on
copper plumbing. There is blue-green corrosion at flare fittings and it
leaves a blue-green tint where the old faucet leaked for a while.
I haven't had a chance to get the water tested yet. What sort of water
condition would cause this? How would this effect brewing? Would celibacy
be better than trying to brew with this water?
Thanks in advance to all you water chemistry geeks.
Mike Urseth
Editor & Publisher
Midwest Beer Notes
339 Sixth Avenue
Clayton, WI 54004
715-948-2990 ph.
715-948-2981 fax
e-mail: beernote@realbeer.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 10:30:55 -0500
From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Subject: Re: Priming and Bottling
At 17:55 02/01/97 -0600, Tim DiAna wrote:
>I am getting ready to bottle my first batch and I've read a couple of
>different sources that said 1 tsp sugar per is bottle is not recommended
>and that I should 3/4 cup of sugar in some water, how much?, and pour
>this into my bottling bucket and then siphon the beer into the bottling
>bucket. Does it make any difference which method I use or is there a
>better method out there.
Thats the standard method. I would recommend using Corn Sugar instead of
regular table sugar, if you have some around. The Corn Sugar tends to give
a cleaner taste once it's fermented. The measured quantity is about the
same too.
One suggestion I'd make would be to weigh your priming sugar once you've
measured your 3/4 cups. If you like the level of carbonation, it's always
easier to re-measure the exact amount by weight than volume.
Oh, and keep your Corn Sugar in a dry place so it doesn't soak up moisture
and change weight! :-)
later!
js.
- --
Jean-Sebastien Morisset, Sc. Unix Administrator <mailto:jsmoriss@qc.bell.ca>
Bell Canada, Routing and Trunking Asignments <http://www.bell.ca>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 03 Jan 97 10:50:36 EST
From: Rory Stenerson <71762.1664@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: First all-grain (Darrin P.)
Stuck sparging....I can relate to that. I experienced a stuck sparge the first
time I used my Gott 5 gal mash/lauter tun only I was using a Listerman Phalse
Bottom. I suddenly became the Turrets brewer. That was my first and last stuck
sparge after I figured out that I should use a spoon to hold the phalse bottom
flush with the bottom and one to stir and s-l-o-w-l-y add the grain and stir at
the same time.
I also recommend that you use one of those nice big/long temperature probes from
Williams to accurately test your mash. I suspect you're getting some inaccurate
reads from just the top half of your mash. You might find it hotter towards the
bottom. Good luck, have fun, and happy all-grain brewing.
Rory Stenerson,
S.C.U.M.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 7:52:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Cave <CAVE@PSC.ORG>
Subject: Author line, Jim Cave
One aspect of the old HBD that I miss is a statement of the authorship
(or ea-mail address) of each post in the subject area. For the time being,
may I suggest that we put these in ourselves?
Jim Cave
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 97 08:53 PST
From: Charles Burns <cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us>
Subject: re: First all-grain (Darrin P.)
Darrin writes about his first all grain "can you say stuck sparge"...
Well, I think the key here is the other little quote "Hell with any
sparging...". Darrin never did say that he started sparging.
The key to an easy flowing sparge is to keep at least 1 inch of water on top
of the grain bed. This helps to prevent channeling and my guess is it would
also keep your grainbed from turning into "cement".
As far as the bubbles getting into the loose tubing, you've got to just
shove that tubing a little farther up onto the spigot, then pinch the tubing
where the bubbles are appearing. This works for me.
Charley
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 12:01:13 -0500
From: PVanslyke@aol.com
Subject: re: keeping the hops out of the fermenter
>
>Lenny writes:
>>I recently switched from whole to pellet hops. In my last batch, I
>>whirlpooled the wort after cooling and before transfer to fermentor.
>>However, it was impossible to not have the hops go along without losing
half
>>of the wort, so I transferred the whole lot and racked to secondary after a
>>couple days, leaving behind the settled hops.
>>
>>How does one leave the pellet hops behind without losing lots of wort?
>
> Al writes:
>I used to use pellet hops in the boil and put them in hop bags. Actually,
>I used fine-mesh, white nylon bags used for some winemaking purpose and
>simply tied a knot in the bag to keep the hops in. Yes, I believe that
>hop utilization was reduced, which is why I added 10% more hops than
>the Rager formulae from the Hops Special Issue of Zymurgy recommended.
>The resulting IBU levels were very close (based upon tests done at
>Siebel). After the boil, I could pull out 95% of the hop pellets (or
>99.9% of whole hops) by simply pulling out the bag. I did lose maybe
>8 fl.oz. (perhaps 250ml) of wort to the hops.
>
>I've since put ball valves on both my kettles and put something very
>much like an EasyMasher(tm) screen inside. This setup clogs with
>pellets almost immediately, so I have switched to whole hops and now
>I lose a bit more wort because I immersion chill and don't want to
>risk squeezing the spent hops to get out the last quart (about a liter)
>of wort. My main reason for switching to this system was so that I
>could drain the kettle without splashing (I was concerned about
>infection from airborne nasties), but the incredibly clear wort
>seems to be an added benefit (the whole hop bed retains virtually
>all the hot and cold break.
>Al.
>
I just had surgery done on my kettle yesterday to accomplish much the same
thing.
Al, what type of screen do you use?
Paul VanSlyke >>> Brewing and relaxing in Deposit,NY
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 09:05:14 -0800
From: "Brander Roullett (Volt Computer)" <a-branro@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: Kettle mashing.
> I used a 5 gal. Gott with an EasyMasher.
I have heard this term tossed around quite a bit, What EXACTLY is an
"EasyMasher".
I am getting ready to modify my brew kettle (5 Gal) so i can try Kettle
Mashing (and consequently start ALL GRAIN Brewing) and would like to
bounce my plan off of you all.
My Plan...
drill a hole in the sidewall of my kettle as close to the bottom as my
spigot (tbd) will let me, and the i will add some sort of False Bottom.
My intent, and reason for this is to put my "grain bill" into the
kettle, bring the temp up to 150 degrees. let sit for an hour. then
Mashout, by raising the temp up to 170. then i will drain off the
liquid into a plastic bucket, clean the grain out of my kettle, pour in
wort, bring to a boil, and add whole hops and adjuncts.
If nothing else this will give me a brew kettle that will give me clear
wort, and leave the gunk behind (hops, etc), but i think this may be an
easy and inexpensive way to get into all grain brewing.
Reference -> http://alpha.rollanet.org/library/KettleARF.html Kettle
Mashing, by Jack Schmidling <-
Questions I have...
I need to get a spigot to install into the bottom on of my Kettle. Help
and suggestions on type that works best for cheap, and methods of
install and leakproofing?
What is an easy AND cheap way to put a false bottom in my kettle?
Has anyone used the kettle mashing method successfully, and would
recomend it?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 09:12:15 -0800
From: "Brander Roullett (Volt Computer)" <a-branro@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: decanting of yeast to culture question
>the beer bottle and decant off the beer (and drink it) leaving about a
>quarter of the beer in the bottle. Then sanitize the top of the bottle with
>alcohol. Swirl the sediment in the bottle and pour the cooled sugar water
Use a disposable lighter to flame the top of the bottle and you can
drink
95% of the beer and leave only 5% in the bottle -- that will be enough.
what is the best way to "decant" the beer out of the bottle, pouring
seems like it would lose too much of the yeast. siphoning seems like
you would drink most of it trying to get suction started?
i am going to start culturing yeast soon, and need to know the best or
at least workable ways before i start.
thanks in advance..
Brander Roullett
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 03 Jan 1997 09:17:46 -0800
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@axel.vigra.com>
Subject: Re: RIMS pump speed control
>> Marty Tippin writes:
MT> Keith Royster asks whether he can use a ceiling fan controller to
MT> adjust the motor speed of his RIMS pump.
MT> When I was researching pumps for my system, I asked the guys at
MT> March Pump Co. about whether there was a way to control the speed
MT> of their motor, and they recommended against it. Unfortunately, I
MT> can't recall all the details but it had something to do with the
MT> motor being "single phase" - whatever that is. Seems like they
MT> even said it just plain wouldn't work; in any case, I decided not
MT> to tempt fate.
MT> Their recommendation was to simply use a ball valve on the output
MT> side (as Keith is currently doing) to control the flow.
Well, I have a Little Giant which looks so much like a March it is
laughable. I called the Little Giant technical support and got the
same story, that one should control it with a valve on the output
side, but they did say that the motor was of the "universal" type.
And the fan speed controller I use says specifically that it is for
universal motors. I have used this for 3 years and about 30 batches
as well as numerous tests of several hours duration with no noticeable
ill effects to the motor.
However, there is one thing to watch out for. These type of motors
have an internal fan and if the motor is controlled to slow down the
flow rate, the fan cooling may not be adequate. This should be the
only thing which would damage the motor, that it gets too hot while
rotating slowly. If you cannot hold your hand on your motor after it
has been pumping for a while, then I would suggest that you can get a
muffin fan and do force cooling with it in addition to the internal
fan of the motor. But my 1/8hp motor in my system does not have this
problem and I have to slow it waaaay down in order to not compact the
grain bed. Your mileage may vary.
dion
- --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen@vigra.com
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 03 Jan 1997 09:17:20 -0800
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@axel.vigra.com>
Subject: Re: RIMS pump speed control
>> Marty Tippin writes:
MT> Keith Royster asks whether he can use a ceiling fan controller to
MT> adjust the motor speed of his RIMS pump.
MT> When I was researching pumps for my system, I asked the guys at
MT> March Pump Co. about whether there was a way to control the speed
MT> of their motor, and they recommended against it. Unfortunately, I
MT> can't recall all the details but it had something to do with the
MT> motor being "single phase" - whatever that is. Seems like they
MT> even said it just plain wouldn't work; in any case, I decided not
MT> to tempt fate.
MT> Their recommendation was to simply use a ball valve on the output
MT> side (as Keith is currently doing) to control the flow.
Well, I have a Little Giant which looks so much like a March it is
laughable. I called the Little Giant technical support and got the
same story, that one should control it with a valve on the output
side, but they did say that the motor was of the "universal" type.
And the fan speed controller I use says specifically that it is for
universal motors. I have used this for 3 years and about 30 batches
as well as numerous tests of several hours duration with no noticeable
ill effects to the motor.
However, there is one thing to watch out for. These type of motors
have an internal fan and if the motor is controlled to slow down the
flow rate, the fan cooling may not be adequate. This should be the
only thing which would damage the motor, that it gets too hot while
rotating slowly. If you cannot hold your hand on your motor after it
has been pumping for a while, then I would suggest that you can get a
muffin fan and do force cooling with it in addition to the internal
fan of the motor. But my 1/8hp motor in my system does not have this
problem and I have to slow it waaaay down in order to not compact the
grain bed. Your mileage may vary.
dion
- --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen@vigra.com
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 09:34:32 -0800
From: "Brander Roullett (Volt Computer)" <a-branro@microsoft.com>
Subject: Pale Ale Recipe comments?
Below is the Pale Ale recipe i am refining. i was wondering if can get
some comments from you more experienced brewers. Also the half poud of
Cara-Pils, do i need to have some Pale Malt (grain) mashed with it to
extract all of the good stuff? i heard a rumor about it. i have done
this
recipie without the carapils, dry yeast, and Pellet hops. i am trying
to
refine it a bit more, but the first batch was EXCELLENT. I loved the
light
taste of lemon along with the bitter tast of the hops. Mmmm...
Pale Moonlight Ale
Category : American Pale Ale Method : Partial
Mash
Starting Gravity : 1.044 Ending Gravity : 1.011
Alcohol content : 4.3% Recipe Makes : 5.0 gallons
Total Grain : 1.50 lbs. Color (srm) : 14.8
Efficiency : 75% Hop IBUs : 36.2
Malts/Sugars:
1.00 lb. Honey
0.50 lb. Cara-Pils Dextrine
1.00 lb. Crystal 60L
4.00 lb. Alexanders Pale Extract
Hops:
1.00 oz. Cascade 7.8% 60 min
1.00 oz. Cascade 7.8% 2 min
Notes:
Primary: peel of 1 lemon
Yeast: cultured from Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
Hops: Whole Cascade hops in muslin bag.
- --
Badger, Innkeep of the Inn at Amberhaven
(SCA Frederic Badger, Red Tree Pursuivant, Barony of Madrone, An Tir)
(Work Brander Roullett, Software Tester, Microsoft, Seattle Wa,
a-branro@microsoft.com)
badger@nwlink.com http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html
Brander Roullett badger@nwlink.com www.nwlink.com/~badger/
Filled with mingled cream and amber
I will drain that glass again.
Such hilarious visions clamber
Through the chambers of my brain ---
Quaintest thoughts --- queerest fancies
Come to life and fade away;
Who cares how time advances?
I am drinking ale today.
- Edgar Allan Poe
----------------------------------------------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2300, 01/03/97
*************************************
-------
