Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #2264
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/11/05 PST
Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 6 November 1996 Number 2264
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
cane / corn suger equiv ((Greg Moore - SMCC BOS Hardware Engineering))
Re: Corn as an adjunct (Art Steinmetz)
RE: no sparge technique (Art Steinmetz)
propane cooker (SCHNUPP_JOHN/FOX1_00@amat.com)
Re: coolant flow/O2 toxicity (hollen@vigra.com)
Squeezin dem grains (Charles Capwell)
Fake Lagers (KennyEddy@aol.com)
BTU to Watts conversion (Kelly Jones)
road trip (<egross@emory.edu>)
second try again ((BAYEROSPACE))
any gas tank? / pin vs ball ((Mark & Ava Lindberg))
over oxygenation ((BAYEROSPACE))
Oxygenation of Wort ("Aaron Herrick")
Re: Refridgerator Penetration: Door or Wall? (Rob Kienle)
Weyerbacher ? ("Curt Speaker")
H2S from Wyeast 1007 (Larry Johnson)
Belgain Brewing (Jim Liddil)
What a wonderful hobby!!! ("John E. Carsten, Jr.")
Re: Wort Chiller Water Speed (Wade Hutchison)
Lager Yeast and Temperature (Anton Schoenbacher)
too much yeast (Anton Schoenbacher)
[none] ()
[none] ()
No sparge brewing -- Again! ("Louis K. Bonham")
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
undigest (Anton Schoenbacher)
Re: can I use any other GAS tank "bottle" for my CO2??? (Brian Bliss)
Re: road trip (RUSt1d?)
[none] ()
[none] ()
Gas bottles (Bill Watt)
Re: CF CHiller cleaning/sanitizing ((Geoff Scott))
SNPA not bottling with "chico" rumors? (Rick Dante)
For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew@aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@aob.org
and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.
Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv@ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner@aob.org.
OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info@aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo@aob.org by e-mail.
COPYRIGHT:
As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gmoore@wacko.East.Sun.COM (Greg Moore - SMCC BOS Hardware Engineering)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 09:41:26 -0500
Subject: cane / corn suger equiv
Got another newbie question:
My first batch brewed was a newcastle clone. Recipe called for 1 lb of
brown sugar. I was wondering if I brew another batch of this, can I use
dark corn syrup instead? The first batch has a taste that I attribute to
the use of cane sugar.
Is there a conversion factor that anyone knows of?
Should I use a combination of corn sugar/corn syrup?
Is the molasses in brown sugar fermentable?
Should I use corn sugar and molasses?
Any empirical or theoretical thoughts appreciated.
- -G
------------------------------
From: Art Steinmetz <asteinm@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 10:50:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Corn as an adjunct
At 09:30 AM 11/4/96 -0800, you wrote:
>I still have a lot of old ears
>of corn left on the stalks. It's too old
>to eat so I was thinking about fermenting it in my next batch of beer.
A useful maxim I heard is "Don't cook with wine you wouldn't drink."
- -- Art
------------------------------
From: Art Steinmetz <asteinm@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 10:50:34 -0500
Subject: RE: no sparge technique
>> As I recall Dr. Fix's article (supported by his own experience, no doubt)
was that you leave about 30% of the extract. Or stated another way, you
need 30% more grain to get the same OG. <<
Sorry to be anal but you'll need 43% more grain to get the same OG if you
expect 30% less extract.
1/(1-0.30) = 1.43.
- -- Art
------------------------------
From: SCHNUPP_JOHN/FOX1_00@amat.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 07:42:00 -0800
Subject: propane cooker
Greetings,
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't a gas stove consume O2 in the same
way as a propane cooker? Maybe there is something different about the
combustion between the two that I wasn't taught in chemistry class. Ever
since working my way thru college working in a restarant, I have been hooked
on cooking with gas. Better temperature control, instant heat and quicker
cool down time after turned off (unless you are heating a big hunk of metal
such as a grill) to name three and I'll bet there are those of you out there
who could name more. Good ventalation is necessary whenever using a flame
for cooking, even if it is the kitchen stove. Another reason is so that the
moisture that is "pumped" in to the air as steam and water vapor does not
cause damage. I brew in my basement and I simply didn't like the idea of
having the potential of my floor joists becoming water damaged (it also helps
to get rid of some of the heat too).
I say go with a cajun cooker. They're great for lobster/crab/clam/etc...
as well. Just make sure that it is setting serurely on the floor and as
always when working with flames, keep a fire extinguisher nearby (the home
you could save will be your own). Also store the propane tank in a safe place
outside of living quarters. A standard grill tank (20 lb) lasts me for at
least 4-5 brew (burner on for almost 2 hrs) sessions and costs about $8 to
get refilled. Then again that is my opinion and I can be very opinionated.
It really doesn't matter what you use as your heat source as long as you brew
the best beer you can.
John Schnupp, N3CNL
schnupp_john@amat.com
------------------------------
From: hollen@vigra.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 07:58:46 PST
Subject: Re: coolant flow/O2 toxicity
>> A J deLange writes:
AJd> Mark Bayer asked why brewers aren't cautioned about over
AJd> oxygenation killing yeast. The reason is that you would have to
AJd> work pretty hard to establish and maintain a high enough oxygen
AJd> level to do this.
AJd> To kill your yeast seal the brew in a cornelius keg and apply
AJd> oxygen pressure through a regulator at a couple of atmospheres. I
AJd> don't know how much pressure woulf be required but it would make
AJd> an interesting experiment. Note that even if the yeast survived
AJd> the beer would taste horrible.
Data point, I oxygenate under pressure in a corny using a carbonator
stone and slowly bring the O2 pressure up from 2 psi to 20 psi over
about 30 minutes and then let it stay at 20 psi with no more oxygen
injection for 2 hours, when I let off the pressure and put on the
blowoff hose. The lag time past this point is usually about 2 hours
or less, normal for brewer's yeast. I have no problems with high
terminal gravity, even with OG's of 1095. This is indicative to me of
healthy yeast growth.
In a private conversation with George Fix, he said that he had taken
measurements with a DO meter for inclusion in his next book and had
found that while it is possible to over oxygenate when under pressure,
within a few minutes of going back to STP, the DO levels will fall to
equilibrium and at STP equilibrium, it is *impossible* to have DO
levels too high for yeast. So, unless you pressurize with O2, you
cannot overoxygenate.
dion
- --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen@vigra.com
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California
------------------------------
From: Charles Capwell <chas@A119005.sat1.as.crl.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 10:09:28 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Squeezin dem grains
Whilst perusing the thread on no sparge mashing, someone mentioned using
Guiness' bladder method to squeeze all that you can out of the grains, and
this got me thinking(dangerous I know :).
What if someone where to take their non-sparged grains, transfer them to a
large grain bag, then put them in a fruit press and squeeze as much as
possible out of the grains?
I'm thinking that this might result in some unwanteds being squeezed out of
the grains(tannins, etc). Anyone have any ideas? As I don't have a fruit
press, I can't experiment with this. Though I have thought about trying to
build one out of a plastic bucket. . .
I suppose one could also just twist the grain bag to literally wringe out
the grains the as well.
- -Chas (chas@crl.com)
Crazy Cockatiel Brewery
When I heated my home with oil, I used an average of 800 gallons a
year. I have found that I can keep comfortably warm for an entire
winter with slightly over half that quantity of beer.
-- Dave Barry, "Postpetroleum Guzzler"
------------------------------
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:31:14 -0500
Subject: Fake Lagers
"Careful With That Axe" Eugene asks about making fake lagers (beers made with
lager grain bills & techniques but fermented at "easier" ale temperatures).
Both California Common ("Steam") and Kolsch lager yeasts perform well in the
55F - 60F range, which should be easily achievable this time of year. These
are true lager yeasts. In addition, American Ale ("Chico") and European Ale
yeasts are both clean fermenters, especially below 65F. The real secret to
fake lagers (based on my limited experience with it) is the cold storage part
("lager" is a German verb meaning "to store"). It's easy(er) with a keg
setup to refrigerate it & forget it for a few weeks, but if you plan to
bottle, you should allow plenty of time in the secondary at as cold a
temperature as possible before bottling. The idea in "real" lager production
(lager pro's comments welcome) is that tannins extracted from the decotion
process (which you probably didn't use) and other stuff floating around in
the beer have time to settle out, smoothing the flavor; colder storage
accelerates this process. Question: If the really cold storage temperatures
can't be achieved, is longer time an equivalent substitute?
Depending on the strain of yeast used, a long cold storage period might cause
most of the yeast to fall out, so adding a "bottling yeast" at priming might
be necessary for proper carbonation.
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
From: Kelly Jones <kejones@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 08:43:49 -0800
Subject: BTU to Watts conversion
Dave Harsh wrote:
>1W = 3.41212 BTU/hr, 30,000 BTU = 8792 W.
I'll add one complication: If you stick an 8792W heating element into a
container of water, you'll get almost 100% efficiency, that is, almost all of
the heat will be transferred to the water. However, if you stick a 30,000
BTU gas burner under your kettle, you'll get much lower efficiency: A great
deal of heat will go up and around the kettle, and be lost into the room.
The exact efficiency is, of course, highly dependent upon the specifics, but
50-60 % might not be a bad guess. So in real life, a 30,000 BTU burner might
provide closer to 5000W.
Kelly
Hillsboro, OR
------------------------------
From: <egross@emory.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:04:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: road trip
I will be driving to DC, Wilmington,DE, Philadelphia,E. Rutherford, NJ,
and NYC from Atlanta in the next few weeks.I will be returning to Atlanta,
probably taking 2 days to do so, but I haven't worked that part of the
trip out yet. Anyway, will the collective email me suggestions on beers
sites along the way (brewpubs,beer bars,must sees, tours, etc), all
recommendations will be appreciated. Also, if there are suggestions on
where to buy the higher alcohol Belgian beers that I love or rare
microbrews, send them to me.TIA, lee
------------------------------
From: M257876@sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:07 -0600
Subject: second try again
collective homebrew conscience:
i brewed 2 batches of almost identical bitter the past two weekends. however,
the wort/beer appears very different in the fermenters, and i would like to
try and figure out why.
basically, the first batch generated minimal trub after being chilled, and
is still hazy (tastes good). the second batch produced a lot of trub and
is quite a bit clearer. here are the only differences in the techniques/
recipes:
the first batch:
1. didn't utilize a protein rest
2. didn't have irish moss added
3. had an 80 minute sparge (very slow, on purpose)
4. used ekg hop pellets
the second batch:
1. utilized a 20 minute protein rest at 122 F
2. used irish moss 30 minutes BEOB
3. had a 55 minute sparge ( a little faster flow)
4. used all whole hops (my preference, actually)
the malts used in both all grain recipes were dwc pale ale, aromatic, biscuit,
wheat, and caravienne.
wait, there was one more difference: batch one used no additional salts in the
mash, and batch two used 1 teaspoon of gypsum.
the pH was roughly the same, according to my pH papers. around 5.4 or 5.5
at room temperature.
that's mash pH, above.
okay, homebrew detectives, what's the culprit here? why is batch one so much
more hazy than batch two, and why didn't it produce as much trub?
i eagerly await the collective proclamation.
brew hard,
mark bayer
------------------------------
From: ckbrew@ime.net (Mark & Ava Lindberg)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:39:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: any gas tank? / pin vs ball
Greetings brewers:
In HBD 2263 Raymond asks about using any gas tank for CO2. The awnser is
NO! I once had the opportunity to see the results of a CO2 tank splitting
open. The tank ate a tap refrigerator and tore a hole through the wall of
the house! Really- there wasn't much left of the frig. Luckily no one was
at home at the time this happened. This was a freak accident. The
certification on the tank was only 2 years old. CO2 should be used only in
a tank & regulator rated for CO2. The tank needs to be hydro tested every 5
years. When this test is done, the expiration date of the test is stamped
in the metal of the tank. Any reputable gas supplier will not fill a tank
with an expired date. In the recent thread of brewing safty, one should
learn of the potential for harm in using compressed gasses. Use only a tank
rated for the gas you use. This exampe serves to illistrate the point. Ps.
Some people used compressed O2 in brewing. In these systems it is importnat
to never use oil in the regulator system. This will create an explosive
mixture. Nuf said. Minimun size you'll probably find is 5lb. I use a 20
lb. It costs just about the same to fill, and lasts 4 times as long. Best
prices I've found is Fox Equiptment 1800-821-2254 (standard disclaimers).
Ray also asks about the use of pin vs ball fittings on kegs. I don't see a
big difference, just need to buy proper fittings. I have noticed that most
pin fitted kegs do not have a relief valve in the lid. This can be gotten
around by depressing the gas poppet. I chose the ball system because that
is what was easier to get in my area. This is probably your biggest
determining factor on wich system to use.
Mark
A friend with mead is a friend in deed...
------------------------------
From: M257876@sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:06 -0600
Subject: over oxygenation
collective homebrew conscience:
a.j. delange wrote (with regard to overoxygenation/yeast toxicity):
> you would have to work pretty hard to
>establish and maintain a high enough oxygen level to do this.
<snip>oxygen through an airstone for an extended period but as soon as the
>airstone is turned off two things begin to happen. First the yeast begin to
>consume the oxygen and the partial pressure goes down and second, unless
>the container is sealed, oxygen escapes to the air (trying to establish
>equilibrium with it at 100%) and the partial pressure goes down.
my further questions would be:
1. how long does it take for the super saturated wort to reach an equilibrium
state with regard to its dissolved oxygen level?
2. what would this final equilibrium dissolved oxygen level be at some nominal
temperature, say 65 deg. F, and 1 atm?
3. at what level of dissolved oxygen does yeast cease normal activity and
begin the "dying" process? or the "not optimal for a good beer
fermentation" state?
4. is there an oxygen level at which yeast becomes unable or unwilling to
consume the oxygen? even if it's not a toxic level, it would surely
affect the fermentation.
surely there has been research done on this topic (?). is there a source for
brewing related research information that's easily accessible? or is
anheuser busch hoarding it all?
>To kill your yeast seal the brew in a cornelius keg and apply oxygen
>pressure through a regulator at a couple of atmospheres.
if this is truly the only way to kill yeast with oxygen, i'd say dave miller
needs to update his book. none of us should really worry about getting too
much dissolved oxygen in our worts. if this is true, maybe i will get an
oxygen source and start using it.
brew hard,
mark bayer
------------------------------
From: "Aaron Herrick" <chemstat@phoenix.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:01:02 -0600
Subject: Oxygenation of Wort
Question for the collective:
I have been reading with interest the oxygenation thread here. I was
trying to think of the oddest way of oxygenating I could, and one of the
methods was chemical. According to some rough calculations, adding a
quarter cup of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide to your Wort (BEFORE the pitch!) would
theoretically saturate 5 gallons at around 40 mg/l. The method is sterile
(sanitile?), cheap, quick, easy, requires no additional equipment. Has
anyone tried this yet? I am preparing to do a split batch trial and wanted
to know what the chemists, biologists, and beer drinkers thought before I
put grain to water.
The only worry I have is the rate of decomposition of Hydrogen Peroxide,
because I shudder to think what it would do to yeast. Anyone have a rate
law for this reaction handy?
Aaron Herrick
100 Aker Wood Brewery
"We brew for pooh!"
------------------------------
From: Rob Kienle <rkienle@interaccess.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 12:24:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Refridgerator Penetration: Door or Wall?
In HBD 2256, Charles Burns writes:
>> is there a problem with going in through the side of the refer? Are
there refrigeration lines hidden in there? And what kind of drill bit
should I get?
I recently made an installation to an older, used refrigerator though
using the more traditional method of putting a single CO2 line through
the side wall and a single tap on the door. I located the tap toward the
left side in order to minimize the amount of tubing "stretch" when the
door is opened, though in practice I have found it to make little or no
difference. For a single tap, there's not as much line in there as you
think there is. For your situation (multiple taps), location may be more
important and your side installation may help. On the other hand,
remember that you've got to pull out those taps every once in a while
(every month, I'd say) to disassemble and clean them, so although you
may end up with fewer lines hanging across the door opening, you are
still going to have to contort yourself a little bit to pull everything
apart at cleaning time. (Not to mention the fact that manipulating that
irritatingly thin beer line over your tappers is difficult at any
angle.)
In terms of locating refrigeration lines, yes, they certainly exist
somewhere. I suggest looking at the back of your unit to see if they run
up the rear; on many machines, particularly older ones, that's where
they are. There are no lines in the door of any machine. There may be
lines in the sidewalls of some. Unfortunately you won't really know
until you drill. However, if you can locate them in the rear of the
unit, you can be pretty confident that there are none of the side. In
addition, if you really want to be sure, you can call the manufacturer
of the refrigerator and give them the model number.
As for hole size, I think I drilled about a quarter inch hole for the
CO2 line and worked it around a bit to enlarge the thing. Then I put the
line through the hole and sealed around the edges with silicone cement
to insulate.
Hope you don't mind my replying to your personal email instead of the
digest itself, but I was behind on my reading and this reply is
therefore a little tardy.
Good luck and good brewing!
- -Rob Kienle
- -Chicago, IL
- -rkienle@interaccess.com
------------------------------
From: "Curt Speaker" <speaker@safety-1.univsfty.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:29:22 EST
Subject: Weyerbacher ?
Have any of you Philly folks tried the beers made by Weyerbacher
Brewing Company in Easton, PA? The label claims "Micro-Brewed in
the Lehigh Valley". I have tried both the pale ale and the winter
ale and found them both...well...er...horrible. The pale ale had a
lingering carmel taste, was overcarbonated & didn't have much hop
character. The winter ale was worse - it tasted scorched, reaked of
diacetyl and again had that carmel tang to it. They taste very much
like poorly made extract beers - no real grain character (my first
batch of homebrew was MUCH better than this...)
Does anyone out there in HBDland know anything about this "brewery"?
Has anyone else tasted these beers? Am I off base here?
I am always happy to see new breweries open in Pennsylvania, but
their products are second-rate (or worse), it concerns me. With all
of the good micros in the Philly area (Dock St., Victory,
Independence, Valley Forge, Lancaster), I don't think these guys will
last long unless they do something to address their quality issues
immediately.
Vote! And if you don't vote, don't bitch!!!
Curt
------------------------------
From: Larry Johnson <Maltster@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 10:32:06 -0800
Subject: H2S from Wyeast 1007
George de Piro is getting lots of stinky H2S from a batch in which he's
using Wyeast German Ale #1007.
George, last year I brewed four batches almost simultaneously with this
yeast, and never detected any odor of H2S. Just for the sake of comparison
between yours and mine: mine were extract brews, I pitched really huge
starters (2 quarts in the first two batches, second two batches were brewed
on the primary dregs of the first two), and they fermented kind of warm
(~70F) for this yeast.
Hope this is of some help.
Larry Johnson / Athens, GA / maltster@ix.netcom.com
http://www.ix.netcom.com/~maltster - stop by for a visit!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Way down south they had a jubilee,
Them Georgia folks, they had a jamboree.
They were drinking homebrew from a wooden cup,
The folks that were dancin' there got all shook up.
Chuck Berry - "Rock 'n Roll Music"
Larry Johnson / Athens, GA / Maltster@ix.netcom.com
Come and see the Web page at http://www.netcom.com/~maltster
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
------------------------------
From: Jim Liddil <JLIDDIL@AZCC.Arizona.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:47:42 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Belgain Brewing
> From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
> Date: 04 Nov 96 15:10:36 EST
> Subject: Chimay yeast
> Paul Edwards says that discussions with a brewer in Belgium and reading
Michael
> Jackson confirm that Chimay uses the same yeast for fermentation and bottle
> conditioning. S. Murman has tried several starters, but was cautioned that
> fermenting it at too high a temperature would give too many phenols and be
out
> of style. He believes that 64F is optimum. Murman typically has 64 to 70F
> fermentations lasting several weeks.
High temp ferments give excessive higher alcohols and banana beer also. Murman
is obviously underpitching if his beer takes weeks to ferment. There is no
reason for 1070 beers not to ferment out in a week if pitched with adequate
amounts of yeast even at 60 F.
>
> I have found a passage in Pierre Rajotte's book "Belgian Ale" (Brewers Pub.)
> that says that some of the fermentations take place at as high a temperature
as
> 85F for the first few days. Also, he says on P.39 in describing how
> fermentation was carried out in small casks in the old days:
Many people question the validity of what Rajotte has written partiucalry those
who have been to belgium. But if you want to use high temps wI would recommend
a yeast like the YCKC strain B1 (no affiliation, but I live in Arizona and know
about high temp ferments :-) )
> 78F at which time the production of esters became very evident. Next time I
> will start hot. I guesstimate that the cauliflower stage occurred at a
> fermentable sugar content higher than 2% which is high for kegging unless
they
> used the porous spile method of pressure control.
I caution you against such a high temp ferment, but I'll let you decide. I
prefer not to make headache, banana beer.
Jim
The AOB is still noxious.
------------------------------
From: "John E. Carsten, Jr." <jcarsten@ionet.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:53:10 -0600 (CST)
Subject: What a wonderful hobby!!!
Just a thought ... reason number 1,038,258 on why homebrewing is such a
wonderful hobby. I
was admitted to the hospital rather abruptly last Wednesday.
At the time, I had a mead chugging along (about 2 weeks in the carboy) and a
pilsner in a temp controlled fridge (three weeks in the primary). I was in
the hospital for three days, with a wife at home who knows nothing about
brewing and wasn't in the mood to take care of my beer anyway.
I came home Friday night, immeditately went to bed, and did not check the
beer OR the mead until Saturday afternoon. By The weekend, the two were at
the same temperature they had been when I left, and still fermenting away
quietly (although they were both much clearer, and with a quick SG check,
much stronger).
Is this a great hobby or what?
John "One foot in the grave and still Brewin'" Carsten
Homebrewing, the only hobby that you can still participate in after you're
long gone.
------------------------------
From: Wade Hutchison <whutchis@bucknell.edu>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 14:06:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Wort Chiller Water Speed
>
>From: "Brian Krause" <bkrause@gwis.com>
>Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 16:29:59 -0500
>Subject: Wort Chiller Water Speed
>
>Fellow Homebrewers,
>
>I have a homemade wort chiller (3/8 " copper tube 30 feet long, shaped
>around a paint can) and have always wondered how fast to run the water thru
>it for cooling. Being a spark chaser and not an expert on thermal
>transfer, any suggestions on how fast to run the water thru the coil for
>the most efficient cooling??
>
>- ---- Brian G. Krause
>- -------- BKRAUSE@GWIS.COM
>- ------------ "Relax, Don't Worry... Drink your OWN Homebrew!!"
>
>------------------------------
>
Two rules of thumb: Keep the flow turbulent for maximum heat transfer,
and keep the approach temperature at 10 deg. C. For 3/8" copper tubing, that
would mean keeping the flow above 1. gallon/minute. If you can measure the
outlet temperature of the coil, be sure that the water out is at least
10 degrees cooler than the current wort temperature. Increased flow will
decrease the outlet temperature.
Hope this helps.
-----wade
whutchis@bucknell.edu
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 11:14:26 PST
Subject: Lager Yeast and Temperature
I was wondering what effect warmer tempertures (60-65 deg) have
on fermenting with lager yeast. Will I get some funky esters
formed by doing this ? I have used lager yeast before but that
was when I was a misinformed extract brewer. I don't remember
if I got off flavors or not, actually I think all my extract
brews had off flavors, so I'm not sure if it was the yeast or not.
I have read in various places that mash sparge water should have
a starting ph of 5.6, should the water I use to mash also have
a low ph ? Does it matter ?
what effect will useing sparge water with a ph of 7 do to my brew ?
thankyou
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 11:39:39 PST
Subject: too much yeast
I got another one. On friday I brewed another basic ale, I'm
trying to get my all-grain process down. I went to my local
brewpub and got some yeast from his fermenter. The yeast they
use is a Nottingham Ale yeast. He gave me about a 20 oz jar
filled with nice creamy yeast sediment from his fermenter.
He told me to use about 1/4 of it, which I did. About an
hour or so after pitching yeast I had 3 inches of foam on my
wort and it was churning like a mother. Next day fermentation
activity was at a minimum. Sunday I racked to secondary and
gravity was 1.015 (O.G. was 1.060) but the stuff smelled like
grapefruit. I read in 'Brew Chem 101' that this could be from
pitching too much yeast. Should I have made a starter from
the yeast I got instead of dumping in about 1/2 cup of pure
yeast ?
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham@i-link.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 14:04:54 -0600
Subject: No sparge brewing -- Again!
David R. Burley, in a critique of "no sparge" brewing, asks:
> Why go to the time and trouble of making a brew if you're going to throw a
lot of it away just to save a few minutes? Would you pour two
gallons of your beer down the sink?
The answer is simple: to make better beer! Yes, no sparge brewing is
nominally more expensive, but yields a maltier tasting product in less
time. (See George Fix's original article on the subject in the HBD
archives.) Indeed, most brewing experts (including both Dr. Fix and Dr.
Paul Farnsworth) will tell you that no sparge (a/k/a "first runnings"
brewing") gives a higher quality beer. Frankly, the main reason why I
use the "no sparge" method is not to save time but to increase the
quality of what I brew!
And, as I've said before, if it bothers you to "waste" the sugars left
in the spent grains, just steep them in hot water while your main mash
is boiling. When you're through with the boil and you've emptied the
kettle, just drain off and boil up these "second runnings" with a
handful of hops and you've got a supply of either high grade yeast
starter or low grade beer wort. Beer made from these "second runnings"
is the "small beer" which Shakespeare piloried (Henry VI, Part II, Act
IV, Scene ii).
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 14:15:32 PST
Subject: undigest
How do I get on the undigest version ?
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
------------------------------
From: Brian Bliss <brianb@microware.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 17:16:00 CST
Subject: Re: can I use any other GAS tank "bottle" for my CO2???
> I can get a small Oxygen tank rated at 1800 pounds for $20 and don't know
> if I can use it for my homebrew.
I would work, but the fittings will not be the same and no place will
fill it for you. O2 tanks use different threads than other gases to
prevent just what your doing. Using an O2 tank for other gases isn't
harmful in itself (provided it has been completely emptied before
refilling), but you don't want to use anything but an O2 tank which
has ONLY been filled with O2 for O2. O2 can react with residual liquids
(mainly oils in the fittings and regulators), but great care has been
taken to keep O2 tanks and other tanks separate, and if you filled
the O2 tank with CO2, you would have a potentially dangerous situation
when someone scarfed up the cheap bottle and took it to be refilled
it with O2.
bb
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:58:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: road trip
At 12:04 PM 11/5/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I will be driving to DC, Wilmington,DE, Philadelphia,E. Rutherford, NJ,
>and NYC from Atlanta in the next few weeks.I will be returning to Atlanta,
>probably taking 2 days to do so, but I haven't worked that part of the
>trip out yet. Anyway, will the collective email me suggestions on beers
>sites along the way (brewpubs,beer bars,must sees, tours, etc), all
>recommendations will be appreciated. Also, if there are suggestions on
>where to buy the higher alcohol Belgian beers that I love or rare
>microbrews, send them to me.TIA, lee
>
Copa Two in Phila has belgians on tap.
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From: Bill Watt <wattbrew@buffnet.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 20:12:39 -0800
Subject: Gas bottles
Raymond wants to know:
"Any suggestions on where I can get an acceptable tank, cheap ?"
Try a place that refills fire extinguishers. I went to my local fire
extinguisher refill place with my 20# bottle and he was selling all
sizes of co2 bottles. Better yet, if your real lucky, you might be able
to find one for free or cheap at a garage sale.
- --
Brewing beer in Lancaster, NY
Watt's Brewing
Bill Watt - wattbrew@buffnet.net
------------------------------
From: gscott@io.org (Geoff Scott)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:12:03 -0500
Subject: Re: CF CHiller cleaning/sanitizing
Bob uses a corny to fill his counterflow chiller but my sanitizer is self
propelled. I steam clean my chiller and it couldn't be easier.
(How's that for brevity? How about digest software that puts a smaller
limit on the length of a post and won't allow the exact same post in a
single digest?)
regards,
Geoff Scott
gscott@io.org
Brewing page http://www.io.org/~gscott
------------------------------
From: Rick Dante <rdante@pnet.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:35:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: SNPA not bottling with "chico" rumors?
I've heard a rumor that Sierra Nevada is not using their Chico yeast in
their bottled conditioned SNPA anymore. Is this true? If it is I better
get a package of 1056 because I cultured a fresh plate from a bottle of
SNPA to replace my dead chico colonies that were 2 1/2 years old.
Rick Dante
rdante@pnet.net
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2264
****************************
