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HOMEBREW Digest #2282
Homebrew Digest Monday, December 9 1996 Volume 02 : Number 002
1 Re: Burners
2 Starter vs Primary fermentation
3 keeping fridge contents cool
4 [No Subject Provided By Sender]
5 MCI Mail Partial Posting Notice
6 Gaaasssp!!!! (and Carmelization)
7 Destruction of the HBD by aob
8 stoves
9 Re: Beer Aging
10 IPA woes
11 Kraeusening
12 Stuck ferment
13 Message not deliverable
14 WHEW! Question on DME
15 I APOLOGIZE for the MIS-POST TO HBD
16 HBD functions
17 Brew Water
18 Indoor Propane revisited
19 Re: Beer aging
20 Jet Style Cooker -> cheap!!
21 Topping off and gravity variation
22 Hop Pellets
23 It's Alive!! (and my Gadgets Page has moved (Again...))
24 counterpressure bottle filling
25 counterpressure bottle filling
26 Re:burners
27 Re: No sparge
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 20:00:41 -0500
From: Barrowman@aol.com
Subject: Re: Burners
I picked up a very nice cast iron burner from a local store for only $40. It
was meant to be a Cajun Cooker. The display had a broken pot (which I didn't
want) so I offered to buy just the burner. I got a regulator and needle valve
with the unit for a neat $30 off. It does simmer well but not efficiently. It
stands ~2 ft high. This is a good time of year for buying floor models......
It is nice to see the HBD back on track. I am still working on a list of Web
sites. Thanks to all who have helped me with this. I have even picked up some
others, after much wading through rec.crafts.etc. Hopefully I will finish in
time for Christmas. If not, it looks like I have resolution fodder lining
right up.
Laura
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 20:39:25 -0500
From: Denis Barsalo <denisb@cam.org>
Subject: Starter vs Primary fermentation
I made a starter with Yeast Lab A05 Irish Ale using the recommended
"recipe". (5 tbs DME and two cups of water, boil, cool, pitch)
I hardly saw a krausen in the starter and the activity was very
slow. But in the primary, (an Irish Stout) it became a real monster. Blow
off hose and everything! Lots of activity, big krausen, rolling boil kind
of fermentation.
Is this a usual occurance? This has happened a few time lately where my
starter and my primary have very different fermentations.
Denis
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 20:40:27 -0500
From: PVanslyke@aol.com
Subject: keeping fridge contents cool
Hi all, and welcome back !
For a couple months now I have been experimenting with my beer fridge.
Because I keep the beast in an unheated room, when the weather turns cold, I
have a problem with the contents becomming too cold. So, I broke off the
button for turning the light on and off, and with a hot glue gun made the
switch always on. So far with a 25w bulb in place and with the fridge on a
setting just above defrost the temp has maintained 40 to 45 degrees F.
My only concern is the constant light inside and the bottles of yeast
sediment I have saved from secondarys.
Coments - criticisms ?
Paul >>> brewin' and relaxin' in Deposit, NY
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 21:03:28 -0800
From: Steven and Nancy Gray <sgray@calweb.com>
Subject: Gaaasssp!!!! (and Carmelization)
Whew!!!!! Talk about holding your breath. I was turning blue and =
hallucinating about the wonderful, beautiful, sumptuous.......Oh,.... =
that's for alt. something else.
Really though, it's be so long that I just have to come out and let =
everyone know how my beer has been doing. Usually just listening and =
asking a question here and there is enough but I'm about to POP!
In September I ask about carmelization techniques for making Scotch Ale. =
All responses were about the same and this is what I did.
I used Gregory Noonan's recipe for 1991 90 Schilling Scotch Ale and =
bumped up the base malt about 10% to account for my utilization, =
otherwise I followed Noonan's recommended processes. After the specified =
rests and 1 hour sparge to get ~7 gals. I boiled approximately 15 =
minutes then removed 3 quarts for carmelization. I reduced this 3 =
quarts down to ~1 quart over 80 minutes.
When the main boil was almost done, I added the reduced wort to the main =
batch, chilled racked to my primary and pitched. The OG was 1.065, one =
week in primary, one week in secondary, and six weeks in keg. The FG =
was 1.012.
After the six weeks the taste was very pleasing. The maltiness is what =
I have experienced in other Scotch Ales I've tasted, and liked, and the =
sweetness was where I thought it should be (not too sweet, but there). =
Overall, very satisfying.....and now very gone. The batch and process =
are worth repeating for me.
Well, I got that off my chest, now back to my current batches. And time =
for all of us to continue on where we left off (but hopefully with a =
little more consistency).
Steve Gray
Shingle Springs, Ca
sgray@calweb.com=20
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 09 Dec 96 00:49:58 EST
From: Lynn Ashley <73744.3234@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Destruction of the HBD by aob
To: INTERNET:homebrew@aob.org
Homebrew Digest, Sunday, December 8 1996, Volume 02 : Number 001:
> The digest will be sent out when it reaches 1500 lines in length, or once
> a day, whichever comes first.
Many of us thought that the biggest threat from the aob would be from
censorship. Little did we realize that aob would choose to destroy the
HBD by allowing it to consume itself. Rob Gardner restricted the daily
output to 50KB. He provided a mechanism whereby posters could delete
their queued posts. If a post was sub-standard or already answered, the
poster deleted it. Given time to reflect, I purged many.
The HBD is too important to allow to die. Hopefully it will be picked up
by someone who cares.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 02:02:08 +0000
From: ksmith2@wingsbbs.com
Subject: stoves
hollen writes...
which are available. They will boil your wort faster than any of the
other commonly available burners, but may scorch it, or may boil it
too fast during the boil.
Boil it too fast? Is there such a thing? I have found that if you use
a good heavey bottomed stainless steal pot, your wort will not scorch
no matter how fast I boil it....
hollen writes further.....
Superior cast ring burners which are really nice burners, but unless
you go with someone and buy a few, the price will be way over $90
each.
Actually this is not true. You can get a VERY GOOD multi-jet burner
from Pico Brewing in Ypsilanti MI for 65 bucks. (no affiliation etc
etc). This rig is 170K BTU and very adjustable at the low end of
things. This burner also will not leave much (if any) soot on the
bottom of your pots. You can find an advertisement for Pico in any of
the brewing rags.
Good Brewing
Ken Smith
Britten & Smith Brewing VyLtd
...where the BS stops at the label...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 17:13:54 -0800
From: Rich and Lori Cox <lori@kdn0.attnet.or.jp>
Subject: Re: Beer Aging
> Does anyone have any recommendations or guidelines,
> other than by taste, on how long various styles of beer
> should be aged? I know you're looking for the flavors
> to blend and mellow some, but I'm looking for some
> kind of time frame for say pale ales, ambers, and darks.
>
> -Jay Reeves
There was an article in the Thrid Quarter 96 issue (Vol 5, Number 3) of
the "The Malt Advocate" discussing "Vintage Beers". While the focus was
on commercial beers, how beer is affected by aging was discussed fairly
indepth (i.e. fruit, spice, and hop cahracteristics).
Richard Cox
Okinawa Japan
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 04:35:00 -0600
From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD@HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: IPA woes
Dear Collective (v. 2)
I've made an IPA that screams hops for days. My unenlightened friends
find it too bitter. Being the eager to please type, I was toying with
the idea
of diluting this batch with a lightly hopped batch in another carboy.
Stylistically bankrupt I know, but has anyone ever blended beer and
gotten satisfactory results? Does two good beers make a bad beer or
will they have a synergistic effect?
BTW, thank whoever for the early Christmas present of the HBD. You
never realize what you have got until it's gone.
Daniel Goodale (good lagers as well)
The Biohazard Brewing Company
(formerly The Semi-Permeable Membrane Brewery & Grill)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 07:08:04 -0500
From: Nicholas Dahl <ndd3@psu.edu>
Subject: Kraeusening
I've always bottled using corn sugar. Then, I got a kegging system, and
force carbonated everything. I would, however, like to experiment with
kraeusening my beer. I've read CP's appendix, but would like more
information, and actually, more "real-world" anecdotal evidence.
For those of you who kraeusen your lagers and ales, how do you do it? Is
the process the same for both lagers and ales? What formulas do you use
for calculating how much wort to reserve? Have you tried using different
worts (e.g. fermented brown ale with a pale ale kraeusen, or fermented
munich lager with a DME kraeusen)? And, probably most important, are you
pleased with the results, or are the "advantages" assessed in other ways?
Lots of questions, huh? Hopefully more will come up, too!
Truth in brewing,
Nick
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 09:10:01 est
From: Mike Spinelli <paa3983@dpsc.dla.mil>
Subject: Stuck ferment
HBDers,,
First, welcome back everyone! There IS a Sanni Claus.
My latest brew, a porter, was pitched with a 3rd generation primary
dregs of Brwetek's CL-10 American Ale #1 yeast (Chico?). OG 54 FG
21!!! AAAAAAAAAAAGGGHHH!!
I figure the yeast just pooped out . Batch 1 started from slant to
starter and finished in the low teens. Same with Batch 2 with using
the primary dregs from Batch 1. Batch 3 started showing problems with
a FG of 20. I used the dregs from batch 3 on batch 4 (porter) and sure
'nuf another high FG (21).
So I made up a fresh starter from Wyeast's 1275 Thames Valley (about a gallon)
and poured the slurry between 2 carboys and then racked the porter onto the
yeast (no aeration)
. Will this knock the FG down into the teens? Should that Chico yeast have
pooped out only after 2 batches?
Mike Spinelli
Cherry Hill NJ
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 08:07:32 PST
From: Administrator_at_ASTBMOUND@ccmailsmtp.ast.com
Subject: Message not deliverable
Homebrew Digest Sunday, December 8 1996 Volume 02 : Number 001
1 HBD technical difficulties
2 The HBD Returns!!!
3 Check
4 Good brewing burner?
5 Beer aging
6 Re: Good brewing burner?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 17:26:44 -0700
From: Melinda Bywaters <melinda@aob.org>
Subject: HBD technical difficulties
The Homebrew Digest has been experiencing growing pains. The Association
of Brewers (AOB) became home to a much smaller Digest in June of 1996
and has been working to keep up with the growth ever since. On November
20 growth-related technical difficulties forced temporary shutdown of
the Digest.
The ever-increasing number of subscribers and volume of messages
overloaded the AOB's computer systems. Both hardware and software
problems have been diagnosed and corrected. The Digest will be
relocating within the next two months to a site with dedicated computing
power that is able to handle the forum's increased growth. The AOB will
continue to support the Digest until it moves to its new location and
will work closely with the new site to ensure a transparent transition
for subscribers.
The Digest has doubled in size during the past six months from 2,500
subscribers to more than 5,000. The AOB is committed to keeping the
Digest up and running as a service for the homebrewing community, but
are unable to provide the service from their computer system.
We, at the Association of Brewers, regret any inconvenience the Homebrew
Digest's technical difficulties have caused subscribers.
Thank you for your patience and understanding.
Melinda W. Bywaters, M.A.
Association of Brewers, Marketing Communications
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 15:37:56 -0700 (MST)
From: Dionysus <dionysus@dionysus.aob.org>
Subject: The HBD Returns!!!
Welcome to the first issue of Volume II of the Home Brewer's Digest.
Because we rebuilt the server, things might look a little bit different,
but we're sure that you'll find it works much better and is everything you
expect of the HBD.
To provide a summary of the basic commands available to you:
To post a message to the digest, send your message to <homebrew@aob.org>.
It will be resent to any of the list subscribers, and it will also appear
in the next digest (two totally separate functions).
To subscribe to the list or to the digest:
Send a message to <majordomo@aob.org> with the text "subscribe
<listname> " in the body of the message, where <listname> is
either "homebrew" (the list) or "homebrew-digest" (the digest
version of the list).
To unsubscribe from the list or the digest:
Send a message to <majordomo@aob.org> with the text "unsubscribe
<listname> <your email address>" in the body of the message, where
<listname> is either "homebrew" or "homebrew-digest", depending on
which you're subscribed to.
To receive a listing of the archived digests available for download:
Send a message to <majordomo@aob.org> with the text "index
homebrew" in the body of the message. NOTE: The "index" and
subsequent "get" commands are only available to people who
are subscribed to the list.
To receive a list of other commands available to you:
Send a message to <majordomo@aob.org> with the text "help" in
the body of your message.
To report any difficulties experienced with the list:
Send a message to <owner-homebrew@aob.org> with a description of
your problem.
The digest will be sent out when it reaches 1500 lines in length, or once
a day, whichever comes first.
I know that there has been some confusion over who is subscribed to the
list and who has unsubscribed, et cetera, and we apologize for that. At
this point we have put together what we believe is the most up-to-date
list available. If you have unsubscribed in the past and are still on the
list, please unsubscribe again (see above for how to do this). If you
were on the list and somehow have been dropped, we also apologize. Please
resubscribe, and you will see that the problems have been resolved.
If there are any questions or concerns, please send mail to
<owner-homebrew@aob.org> for resolution.
We thank you all for your patience, and we wish you happy brewing!
The Association Of Brewers
http://www.beertown.org
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 06 Dec 96 10:08:44 EST
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Check
Hallo,
Are you still there?
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
Voice e-mail OK
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 96 07:18:03 PST
From: hollen@vigra.com
Subject: Good brewing burner?
When looking for a good burner for brewing, what should be looked for
and what is available?
dion
- - --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen@vigra.com
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:22:38 -0600
From: Jay Reeves <jay@ro.com>
Subject: Beer aging
Does anyone have any recommendations or guidelines,
other than by taste, on how long various styles of beer
should be aged? I know you're looking for the flavors
to blend and mellow some, but I'm looking for some
kind of time frame for say pale ales, ambers, and darks.
-Jay Reeves
Huntsville, Alabama
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 96 07:32:14 PST
From: hollen@vigra.com
Subject: Re: Good brewing burner?
>> hollen writes:
dion> When looking for a good burner for brewing, what should be
dion> looked for and what is available?
Several factors should be considered. First, it must have a high
enough BTU rating (get hot enough) that it does not take an overly
long time to bring your wort to a boil. This will depend on 1) the
volume you boil, and 2) to some degree, your patience. You can use a
very low BTU burner (35K BTU) if you are patient. The second factor,
and IMHO, the most important, is the burner controllable. The 170K
BTU Jet burners, while they may be very hot and get the wort boiling
very quickly, are not as controllable on the simmer as other burners
which are available. They will boil your wort faster than any of the
other commonly available burners, but may scorch it, or may boil it
too fast during the boil.
Burners which are available:
All sorts of "cajun cooker" burners meant for seafood cooking which
are generally the jet type and usually come with an aluminum pot and
legs.
Superior cast ring burners which are really nice burners, but unless
you go with someone and buy a few, the price will be way over $90
each.
Many restaurant supply houses have natural gas ring burners, but the
price will be high.
In my estimation, the widest range of burners for the least amount of
money is made by Metal Fusion. You can buy anything they sell
directly from them, but you will pay full "list price". You can buy
many different ones of their burners from homebrew shops. They have
the King Kooker which comes in both the jet burner and ring burner
style and puts out 135K BTU for ring and 170K BTU for jet. They come
on tall stands, shorts stands, round stands and square stands. Metal
Fusion will sell individual pieces, like just ring burner and gas
regulator if you are building one into a stand.
THE BEST DEAL GOING:
Cabela's 800-237-4444
Kamp Kooker by Metal Fusion
Spring 1994 catalog page 161
Outdoor Cooker 136k BTU
Single Burner Unit AE-50402-000 $49.95
Double burner unit AE-50403-000 $84.95
30" extensions legs AE-50536-200 $19.95
Fits keg perfectly, 8" high and about 12" square, also fits any sort
of pot because of the grate they use over the burner. It is complete
and needs nothing but a propane bottle.
This is the one I use and am quite happy with it. I have called Metal
Fusion when I first got my burner from Cabela's because one part was
missing. They sent it out with no charge and no questions asked other
than my name and address. When my burner was sooting up the bottom of
the pot, they sent me out a whole new burner assembly free of charge.
When I wanted to switch from propane to natural gas, one of their
technical people talked to me for 15 minutes discussing the options.
These people are one of the best companies I have ever had to deal
with. I have no financial interest in Metal Fusion, I am just a
*very* satisfied customer. If you need, they can even build special
stands for you (but that will cost a lot, but you know it will be done
right).
dion
- - --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen@vigra.com
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest V2 #1
****************************
The following is an attached File item from cc:Mail. It contains
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 09:11:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Paul Ward <paulw@doc.state.vt.us>
Subject: WHEW! Question on DME
WHEW! Did anyone else find him or herself becoming irritable,
twitching uncontrolably and experiencing formication (with an M)
during the early HBD withdrawal stage?
About 3 weeks ago I decided to brew a real quicky (extract) thick brown
ale to have ready for Xmas. From memory it was:
6 lbs. Laaglander (Laglaander?) dark Dry Malt Extract
.5 lb crystal (unknown L)
.5 lb black patent
1 oz. Galena pellet
1/2 oz. Cascade plug last minute
1/2 ox. Cascade plug dry hop
12 oz starter made from the above DME & Coopers yeast
*VERY* well aerated at pitching (cooled wort siphoned through
a sanitized strainer with a 2' drop into open plastic bucket)
The starter was not very impressive after 24 hours, but it showed
signs of activity and smalled O.K. This was the only day I would be
able to brew until after Xmas, so I had to go with it.
24 hours after pitching I had some bubbling evident in the airlock.
24 hours later, nothing. I was patient adn kept an eye on the lock
for the next couple of days - still nothing. I removed the bottled
slurry from an earlier batch I had in the fridge, warmed it to
pitching temp (same as in primary), saw signs of life and pitched.
Nothing! A couple of days later I rehydrated and pitched the only
other yeast packet I had in the house, a Morgans dry lager pack left
over from something earlier. Nada! After a week I dryhopped and let
it set for another week.
OG 1.048 FG 1.038
Bottled with 5 oz. corn sugar. I have good carbonation, and the beer
has a great thick luscious brown head like I wanted. Just that I
wasn't looking to brew a sweet brown LA ale.
Brewing and sanitation practices were normal (for me anyway). I had
tried rousing the yeast and introducing additional oxygen prior to
the 3rd pitch ( 3 strikes and out?).
The only thing I can think of is that this DARK DME is just chock
full of non-fermentables. Anyone know if this is the case? Had this
produced a little alcohol, it would have been just what I was looking
for. Where did I screw up this time?
Paul
- --
If vegetarians eat vegetables, what of humanitarians?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:18:56 GMT
From: Bob Noonan <bnoonan@acadia.net>
Subject: I APOLOGIZE for the MIS-POST TO HBD
To All Home brew digest and rec .beer readers;
I sincerely APOLOGIZE for the ACCIDENTAL post I made to the home brew
digest just before it went down. I had received over 70 e-mails from
the digest and too hastily typed out a letter of protest, meant ONLY
for Software Solutions. As soon as I clicked the wrong button I
realized I had made a mistake but it was too late the post was on it's
way. I had hoped that this mistake would blow over if I didn't post
any thing else but It has not. I realize that I offended many and am
truly sorry. Those that have never made a mistake won't buy this but I
hope the majority will.
P.S. I hope this message gets out today 12/9/96, I have been trying
to post it for about two weeks, again sorry.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 08:32:24 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Subject: HBD functions
Good to have the digest back.
If we're starting from scratch, is there any means to discuss what
functions we want/need? Is there enough demand for a reflector
list to keep it? And does that mean that the cancel post feature
can't be implemented?
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 09:54:12 EST
From: Kirk Harralson <kwh@smtpgwy.roadnet.ups.com>
Subject: Brew Water
Hello HBD!!! Nice to have you back!
Thanks also to Dion for the info on Metal Fusion burners -- Very good
advice, and very timely for me.
This post reminded me of a question I was about to post around the
middle of November. What do all you "outdoor brewers" do for a water
source? I have an outdoor spigot on my porch, but I don't think I
want to run my brewing water through 50' or so of rubber garden hose.
I've seen the cartridge filters at Home Depot, etc. and have been
thinking about buying one to mount to a brewing stand, etc. for a
"clean" water supply, but don't know if this is a good way to go. How
could I store the filter between uses to prevent bacteria, etc. from
taking it over? What is the best way to go on this? I would really
appreciate some good advice on this and other details about brewing
"out of the kitchen".
Kirk Harralson
Bel Air, Maryland
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 96 11:06:15 EST
From: "[Michael Otten]" <motten@fcmc.com>
Subject: Indoor Propane revisited
Welcome back to the HBD.
Several months ago I sent in a question about the dangers of using
propane indoors. For the most part, the replies came back advising
against using propane indoors due to the possibility of leaks and
explosions caused by even the slightest of sparks igniting the propane
which has pooled/collected in a low lying place (in my "basement
brewery", near the furnace, perhaps?) Not a pretty picture. Another
concern, less severe, but very important to avoid, is the creation of
carbon monoxide.
Now the questions. At what point would the leak be most likely to
occur? Is it at the tank, or at the point where it connects to my
cajun cooker, or somewhere in between? Is there anyone out there who
has eliminated most of the risks associated with indoor propane use?
Would keeping the tank outside (and running a long line to the cooker)
eliminate the risk? If the leak is at the tank/hose connection, would
keeping the tank and a foot or so of hose submerged in a garbage can
filled with water resolve anything?
If anyone has suggestions or remedies, fast responses will be greatly
appreciated, since it's starting to get a little nipply here on Long
Island to continue outdoor brewing.
Mike Otten
motten@fcmc.com
East Islip, NY
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 96 15:30:59 UT
From: Don Van Valkenburg <DONVANV@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Beer aging
Jay Reeves <jay@ro.com> inquires about Beer aging
See the article on old ales in the latest issue of Zymurgy. Good article.
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 10:34:24 -0700
From: Ken Sullivan <kj@nts.gssc.com>
Subject: Jet Style Cooker -> cheap!!
Hi,
I've located some 200K BTU jet style cookers with deflector plate
but without a regulator at ACE HARDWARE stores for $25.
I've bought one but haven't used it yet. This is a really good
price!! They advertise them to deep fry turkeys??!! The
Aluminum pot sells for >$120. Forget the pot - get the cooker.
KJ
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 12:53:07 -0500
From: MaltyDog@aol.com
Subject: Topping off and gravity variation
I am just posting this to the newly-reactivated HBD to see if anyone else has
had a similar experience.
Saturday, I was working on a high-gravity triple-as it turned out, it was
even a little higher gravity than I expected! (I'm beginning to think my
grain scale is off!)
Anyway, I could see it was running high, so, towards the end of the boiling,
I topped off my ten-gallon brewpot with water, to lower the gravity some.
After that I stirred the water in to mix it fairly thoroughly, though I admit
I'm a little careful about how much I stir at this point, because of worry
about hot-side aeration.
Anway, fifteen minutes later, I turned off the heat. Then, I let the pot sit
for about fifteen or ten minutes. Then, I started running the wort through
the wort chiller, from a tap I have at the bottom of my brewpot. After a few
minutes, to let all the water I had run through the chiller to sanitize it to
run out, I took a gravity reading. It was 1.090, a little higher than I
planned!
Okay, so I fill up my first carboy. Then I get my next one ready, and start
filling it up. I decided to take another gravity reading, because I was
afraid if the water I topped off with didn't mix well with the wort, the
gravity reading for the second carboy, which was from the top of the pot,
would be lower.
Actually it was 1.100! This doesn't make any sense to me at all! I would
think the gravity from the second half of the chill, if it were different,
would be lower, because the water sat at the top off the pot, and didn't mix
with the heavier wort. But it was higher! It doens't make any sense to me.
A couple of hours later, I check the gravity in each carboy, just to verify
that the gravity variation wasn't just due to some water in the wort chiller.
Sure enough, one carboy was 1.090, and the other was 1.100.
It looks as if my yeast has some work cut out for it.
Can anyone explain why this happened?
Bill Coleman
MaltyDog@aol.com
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Date: 09 Dec 96 14:05:19 EST
From: John Chang <75411.142@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Hop Pellets
Welcome back to all the HBDr's out there! During the time the digest was down,
I had my brother pick up some brewing supplies for me and he mistakenly brought
back hop pellets instead of whole flowers, which I'm used to using. Now that I
have them I'm actually looking forward to using them (K. Goldings) in a Pale
Ale.
I'm assuming my brewing process will be essentially the same, only there will
be no "sparge" following immersion chilling, only waiting to allow the hops and
trub to settle out prior to racking to primary. Any hints/warnings/suggestions
would be welcome.
John
75411.142@compuserve.com
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:13:46 -0600
From: Marty Tippin <martyt@wwgv.com>
Subject: It's Alive!! (and my Gadgets Page has moved (Again...))
Holy cow! Looks like this HBD thing is back up and running - (how about
let's not tell Dave and Al... ;-)
Just wanted to pass along that "Marty's Homebrew Gadgets Page" has a new
(and, hopefully, permanent) home at
http://alpha.rollanet.org/users/mtippin
If you have links to the old location, please update them as appropriate.
- -Marty
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #24: Never underestimate the
martyt@wwgv.com | power of human stupidity.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out my 2-Tier Converted Keg Brewing System Design Plans and
other homebrew gadgets at http://alpha.rollanet.org/users/mtippin
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 15:44:57 EST
From: George Techentine <ustuix2v@ibmmail.com>
Subject: counterpressure bottle filling
Instead of using a counter-pressur bottle filler, couldn't I just
gently put some kegged, carbonated brew in a bottle and cap it? When
you pull off your bottle filler rig, isn't your bottle at atmospheric
pressure? What is the benefit of using one? As a side note, I just
finished the last of my Pumpkin Ale-loved it!
Those that will not learn from history
are doomed to repeat it.
(H) geotek797@aol.com --George Santayana
(W) ustuix2v@ibmmail.com
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 15:45:30 EST
From: George Techentine <ustuix2v@ibmmail.com>
Subject: counterpressure bottle filling
Instead of using a counter-pressur bottle filler, couldn't I just
gently put some kegged, carbonated brew in a bottle and cap it? When
you pull off your bottle filler rig, isn't your bottle at atmospheric
pressure? What is the benefit of using one? As a side note, I just
finished the last of my Pumpkin Ale-loved it!
Those that will not learn from history
are doomed to repeat it.
(H) geotek797@aol.com --George Santayana
(W) ustuix2v@ibmmail.com
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 16:33:08 -0500
From: Btalk@aol.com
Subject: Re:burners
I have a King Kooker ring type burner that is rated at 170,000 btu's, their
jet burner is rated at 200,000 btu's. Unless the specs have changed in the 2
or 3 years since I got my cooker.
Sam's Club and some of the do it yourself home supply type stores have had
the ring type burners in the $60 price range.
THese cookers are definitely the way to go.
Regards,
Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY <btalk@aol.com>
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 15:37:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Frane <jfrane@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: No sparge
Good to see the HBD back on-line; someone can turn off
Al Korzonas' life support system now.
Through some discussion on the Digest before the Crash,
I had gotten the notion of doing a no-sparge mash, with
the intention of replicating George Fix's success in
enhancing malt flavor. When I get a chance, I'll
send along some details, but for now, let's say I'm
a convert.
My basement has gotten pretty cool lately, so I decided
to do something with Wyeast 2112 (a steam beer, natch!),
and try George's technique at the same time. Big success
all around, a sort of steam bock. Because I was uneasy
about the whole idea, I added less water than I had
originally planned, and ended up with a stronger beer,
and less of it. Very nice result for the season,
however, and the main point is that the results seem
to bear out George's idea: malt flavor was *very*
high, relative to beers I've brewed to a similar OG
(1.060). Lots of hops, too, as I used another technique
I learned from George: first wort hopping.
As I said, details to follow (if not here, then in
BYO magazine). For the time, though, I'm sold.
- --Jeff Frane
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End of Homebrew Digest V2 #2
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