Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #2273
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/11/13 PST
Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 13 November 1996 Number 2273
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Re: DO & equilibrium; O2 toxicity ((Bill Giffin))
Dropped posts (Dave Greenlee)
Specialty Malts in Mash? ("Craig Rode")
oxygenation/aeration ((Brian Pickerill))
Weyerman Malts ((George De Piro))
RE: ESB troubles ((George De Piro))
Re: Problems with Mash Temp. (Spencer W Thomas)
Believe what you read? (Larry Johnson)
Re: Chambord in beer (Spencer W Thomas)
Weyermann Malz (Jim Busch)
"homebrew" taste ("Bryan L. Gros")
Re: Beer color... (Joe Rolfe)
pump, buckets, web page ("Herb B Tuten")
RE: ginger in beer ("Bridges, Scott")
Re: Did I Accidently Make Bottle Bombs? ("bob rogers")
California Common yeast in lagers (Charles Epp)
High Point Brewery ((George De Piro))
pre-prohibition lager (lheavner@tcmail.frco.com)
Elementary Sparging Q ("Greg Carter")
Glycerol in freezing yeast ("Jeffrey M. Kenton")
Varying bitterness in a single batch ("Ken Rentz")
pump wanted (greg@chtree.com)
Trub-remove or not?? ("Tom L. Vitti")
Aseptox - One Step - Sanitiser (Denis Barsalo)
Why is there condensation in my Secondary Fermenter ? ((Raymond P Kasprowicz))
English Strong Spice ale recipe (Edward J. Steinkamp)
Bravo to AJ (Thomas Penn)
Deschutes/bottle filling ("Ted Hull")
sources for curacao orange peel ((Dan.Nelson))
Water Quality Questions ("Bill Baker")
Stainless in Seattle/temp control (rbarnes@sdccd.cc.ca.us)
For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew@aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@aob.org
and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.
Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv@ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner@aob.org.
OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info@aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo@aob.org by e-mail.
COPYRIGHT:
As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:31:53 cst
Subject: Re: DO & equilibrium; O2 toxicity
Good morning all,
With all the discussions of O2 and such. I have a couple of questions.
How much DO is required for a normal fermentation? At what point is the
quantity of O2 detrimental to the beer flavor?
Bill
------------------------------
From: Dave Greenlee <daveg@mail.airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:38:21 -0600
Subject: Dropped posts
I've had two posts recently dropped. I received the "Your message has
been received" acknowledgment, but my posts did not appear in the
indicated issue.
Is anyone else having this problem?
Nazdrowie,
Dave Greenlee
The Vindicated Major Prendergast
*******************************************************
* Major Prendergast's Double Bach Dubbel Doppelbock *
* Extra Specially Bitter Bedlam Brewery, *
* a Texas noncommercial Bozoid singularity *
*******************************************************
------------------------------
From: "Craig Rode" <craig.rode@sdrc.com>
Date: 12 Nov 1996 08:57:30 -0600
Subject: Specialty Malts in Mash?
A couple of HBDs ago, someone asked whether it made sense to add specialty
malts (eg, crystal, caravienne) to the mash. I hadn't thought of that, but
since these malts are already converted to sugar, they probably don't do any
good in the mash. The question is, do they do any harm? I typically start
with 8-10 lbs pale malt, and then add 1-3 lbs of these malts, depending on
style.
I haven't seen a response to this post, and am wondering about the opinions of
the collective.
Craig Rode in Milwaukee
------------------------------
From: 00bkpickeril@bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:04:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: oxygenation/aeration
mark bayer said:
>so, really, the advantage of oxygen is that you don't have to roll the
>oversize carboy around for 10 minutes. you're still looking at 8 or 9 ppm
>if you give your wort a 1 minute blast and then don't do anything else.
Yeah, but also I don't think that anything could live in nearly pure O2, so
that it's a lot cleaner than aeration, especially in the warmer
months/climes.
- --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:09:39 -0800
Subject: Weyerman Malts
Hi!
Somebody mentioned Weyerman malts in the last digest. I just thought
that I'd mention that they have a really cool selection of interesting
malts, some of which I recently acquired (but have not used yet).
The list includes: Light & dark Munich, Dark Wheat, Cara-wheat,
chocolate wheat, Cara-rye, chocolate rye, smoked malt, etc.
Basically, anything you can thing of, and then some (remember my
penchant for hyperbole...).
I know you can get them from Hop, Skip, and a Brew in Queens, NY. He
mail orders, too. Phone # is 718-821-6022. I have no commercial
affiliation, but I am friends with the shop owner (no, I won't even
get free stuff for this plug, I'm just sharing a good source of
interesting malts).
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:39:47 -0800
Subject: RE: ESB troubles
Hi all!
Sorry, I forgot to sign my post about a source of Weyerman malts.
Oops.
There was a question about ESB in the last issue (sorry, I don't
recall the name of the poster). He had a long list of possible causes
for "that homebrew taste" in his ESB.
The things that caught my eye were the complaints of thin body and
solvent flavor. Thin body can come from too long a protein rest at
too low a temperature. You need medium molecular weight proteins to
give body to a beer, so you don't want to degrade them too much with a
protein rest between 113-122F.
Solvent flavors can come from too high a fermentation temperature.
Excessive esters can also come from this.
Wyeast 1028 is specifically mentioned as a potential problem. I have
used this yeast many times. The only time it didn't perform well was
when I under pitched and didn't aerate: more banana than a Weizen, and
some harshness, too!
The recipe seemed a bit odd for an ESB. When you say 2-row, do you
mean pale ale malt, or pale (lager) malt?
Try using pale ale malt and no protein rest. Pitch a lot of yeast and
aerate well. Proper pitching and aeration will also help you achieve
a lower final gravity.
Remember that you want to have high levels of diacetyl in the final
product (buttery aroma).
Does anybody have good ideas on achieving this?
Have fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:03:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Problems with Mash Temp.
Well, if I do the simple math, ignoring things like the fact that your
cooler absorbs some heat, I get:
(170*1* 9 + 212*1*1 + 9*.4*70) / (1*9 + 1*1 + .4*9)
= 146
Assumptions:
Specific heat of water is 1
Specific heat of grain is 0.4
Mash tun absorbs no heat.
The first thing to note is that the predicted temperature is not 152.
It takes a few minutes for the temperature to settle after mixing, as
heat diffuses into the center of your grain chunks.
The second thing is that the last assumption is clearly false. The
mash tun will absorb heat from your strike water and will lower the
achieved temperature.
The math on your second addition:
(138 * (10*1 + 9*0.4) + 212*1*4) / (10*1 + 9*0.4 + 1*4)
= 154
Pretty close to what you got, again, ignoring heat absorbed by the
tun.
=Spencer
------------------------------
From: Larry Johnson <Maltster@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:07:38 -0800
Subject: Believe what you read?
Tim Dugan writes in with a bit from his local paper:
--
"It takes a while to get used to Guinness. This beer from an Irish =
family of brewers is heavy and good in winter; but the first pint is
the =
hardest to get down. Stout is a heavy dark-brown beer, somewhat like
=
Guinness, but with less calories. Ale is a red beer, made from malt
and =
hops. Lager is a yellow regular beer that has been aged for several =
months. Shandy is a mix of lemonade and beer and is popular in hot =
weather."
--
to which George de Piro responded thusly:
I find this sad and disturbing, not humorous. Think about how many
people read that and thought that they learned something about beer!
People tend to believe what they read. The beer in this country (USA)
would be a lot better, cheaper, and more diverse if people actually
knew something about it.
and then, my $.02:
I agree, George, but it isn't just beer. It's very common (for me, anyway) to
read some article, usually in a newspaper FWIW, that is written by someone
totally ignorant of the subject matter and is poorly researched. The first is
excusable, the second is not.
We just saw the same principle at work in the recent Dateline "article" / A-B
Infomercial on micro-breweries. Just think; how much of the rest of it (that
we don't have intimate knowledge of) is total nonsense? Count on the news
services to keep you informed and educated? Sure.
------------------------------
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:12:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Chambord in beer
Do it by taste. Pour a measured, small amount of the beer into a
glass, then add the Chambord using a medicine dropper (or one of those
syringes they sell for giving liquid drugs to babies). When you get a
good tasting combo, you can scale up to whatever quantity you want to
flavor.
Thus: if you started with 4 oz of beer and added 10ml of Chambord to
get the desired flavor, for a gallon you'd need 320ml of Chambord (4oz
* 32 = 128 oz = 1 gallon, 10ml * 32 = 320ml).
=Spencer
------------------------------
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:14:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Weyermann Malz
Bob asks about Weyermann malz:
<The local (sort of) shop now has Weyermann beechwood smoked malt. The owner
<is not sure how strong it is, since he just got it in and hasn't tried it
<yet. He suggested 1 lb in a 5 gal batch to to start.
< Has anyone tried this stuff? How smoky is it?
Ive brewed with Weyermann smoked malz and it is not too overpowering.
Beechwood smoked malt is much more mellow to work with than say Peat
smoked malt. Ive made a pilot batch of Rauchbier using 94% Weyermann
rauchmlaz as base. Not overpowering but readily evident smoke.
<He has a bunch of other Weyermann malts too, such as the Munich malts and
<some of the crystals. Anybody have experience with these malts?
Victory Brewing uses these malts almost exclusively. I find them to
be very comparable to the best German malts available, certainly in
the same league as Durst. Weyermann provides a very extensive line
of malts including caraWheat malts in both ligh and dark caraWheat.
If you want a big malty Festbier then the Munich malt is a good choice
with a decoction mash. HopDevil IPA gets a lot of its malt character
from Weyermann Vienna malt. And St. Victorious Doppelbock was just
brewed at Victory Brewing with loads of Munich malts. Try them out,
they do make a distinctive more authentic (continental) product and are
light years above the quality found in US domestic malts, specialty
malts in particular. Buying better malt does make a better beer.
Prost!
Jim Busch
See Victory Brewing at:
http://www.victorybeer.com/
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:10:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: "homebrew" taste
Richard Walto writes:
>Anyone who can help me has my indebtedness in excess. I am trying to
>brew my favorite beer in the whole world. Fuller's ESB or Young's
>Special London Ale are the best examples of what I'm after.
>
>My problem is this. I can't do it, not even close. ...
>
>The failing beers can probably be summed up as 'homebrew'. Do you
>
A friend of mine got rid of "that homebrew taste" by making a wort chiller
instead of pouring hot wort into cold water. He attributed the taste to
HSA.
You've got a wort chiller, but maybe there's aeration at other parts of the
process.
*****
Does any of you gadget people use a motorized stirrer of either your mash
or your wort during chilling? I'd like to mount something on a lid to stir the
wort, but don't know where to get either the stirrer, the motor, or how to
connect them. Suggestions?
*****
BTW, thanks to all for your suggestions to my problem of an uninsulated
sankey keg. I'll give them a shot.
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: Joe Rolfe <onbc@shore.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 12:41:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Beer color...
i was just wondering how the samples should be judged for color?
this, color standard, should have some basis to start from dfor
instance: c'fuged or filtered to some level. this way haze and possible
yeast in suspension would be removed. from my "bad eyesight"
lots of either take the color down a notch or two, until it drops
brite.
there was a color chart/strip i saw in a mag of late, but did not seem to
have many shades on it. any one using this as a cheap easy way?
joe
------------------------------
From: "Herb B Tuten" <herb@zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:25:26 -0500
Subject: pump, buckets, web page
Greetings all.
Has anyone tried to use a drill-powered pump to transfer
liquid from one container to another? I was in a hardware store
yesterday and saw one for a few dollars. Probably not good
for a thermodoohicky-controlled RIMS; but to move hot water
from a kettle up to a sparge water cooler it would be cheap, quick,
and easy. What do you think?
Yeah, I tried to clean a pickle bucket or two before I saw the light.
Buckets can found easily for free at most bakeries or doughnut shops.
They get cream filling, fruit filling and stuff in 5 gallon buckets
and are happy to give them away. They're food grade and with just
a little cleaning they can be used for many brewery purposes, with no
aftertastes.
Our local club, the Winston-Salem Wort Hawgs, now has a web page.
Please visit us at http://freenet.co.forsyth.nc.us/WSWH
Herb
herb@zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us
------------------------------
From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess@mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 11:04:00 PST
Subject: RE: ginger in beer
>From: Skip Jonas <skip@eclipse.net>
>Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 18:43:30 -0500 (EST)
>Subject: Ginger
>
>I would like to make a ginger-flavored holiday beer for a friend of mine. I
>have never used fresh ginger (in beer) before and would like to hear about
>any usage tips (amounts? in the boil? in the primary? in the secondary?
>chopped? sliced? whole "plug"? etc.) or recipes (all grain or extract).
TIA,
>
>Skip
Skip,
I've made a number of ginger beers, including a couple for holiday-type
warming. In general, I use ginger and other spices as I would finishing
hops. You may add some at 15 min before flame out, 0-5 min before flame
out, or steeping at the end of the boil. As with hops, each addition
results in different flavors/aromas. The later in the boil that you add
them, the more aroma you get. For ginger specifically, I would use 1-2 oz
if you want some but not too much ginger flavor, say, equal amounts split
between 15 min and steeped. If you want more pronounced ginger flavor use 4
oz, split the same way. As a note of caution, ginger is a powerful spice.
It can over whelm a beer. If you're not sure if you and your friend like
ginger, I'd suggest starting out with less. Also, if you want the ginger to
blend with other spices, like cinnamon, nutmeg, etc, use a lesser amount. I
chop my ginger into little bits, you could probably grate it and get the
same result.
Scott
------------------------------
From: "bob rogers" <bob@carol.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:25:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I Accidently Make Bottle Bombs?
go with a modified 3.
open one up after three or four days.
if there's to much co2. then gently pry each cap to relieve the pressure
and then use your capper to reseal them.
------------------------------
From: Charles Epp <chuckepp@ukans.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:45:42 -0600
Subject: California Common yeast in lagers
I was intrigued by the recent discussion of brewing pseudo-lagers
without traditional lager yeasts. I'm curious whether those who've done
it think that a Munich Dunkel or doppelbock could be brewed successfully
with one of the California Common (Steam) yeasts, like the Wyeast
strain. That strain produces fairly malty beers, which seems
appropriate. What do y'all think? Private email is fine.
Chuck chuckepp@ukans.edu
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:09:03 -0800
Subject: High Point Brewery
Hello all!
I just wanted to let people know that a new brewery has just begun
shipping product in the NJ area.
The brewery is called "High Point Brewery" (although they're actually
in Butler). They claim to be America's first exclusive German-style
Wheat beer brewery.
They make 2 beers, Ramstein Blonde and Dark. They are only available
on tap in some NJ bars at the moment.
The blonde is a good Weizen, with all the banana and clove you would
expect. Not at all a bland American wheat!
The dark is a more subdued in the ester and phenolic departments, and
the roast malt is actually pretty up front in the flavor profile. An
interesting interpretation of the style.
They decoction mash and use open fermenters. The beer is definitely
worth trying.
As usual, I have absolutely no commercial interest in this. Just
hoping that some people in Northern Jersey might get excited about a
their new neighbor!
Have fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: lheavner@tcmail.frco.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:14:27 -0600
Subject: pre-prohibition lager
Now that I have 2 lagers and an all-grainer under my belt, I'd like to
try the pre-prohibition American lager that was discussed in HBD a
while back. Unfortunately niether of the local homebrew suppliers
carry 6-row malt. Can anybody suggest a source in central Texas or
mail order. Also, Ulm yeast was suggested. Is there a source for it?
Would one of the Wyeast varieties be appropriate as an alternative?
Lou Heavner
<lheavner@frmail.frco.com>
------------------------------
From: "Greg Carter" <gcarter@mail.hq.faa.gov>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 12:51:13 EST
Subject: Elementary Sparging Q
O.K., brain lapse time, so I'll ask the collective oracle:
With a 9 lbs. grain bill (for a 5 gallon recipe), mashed in 2 1/2
gallons water, and sparged with 4 gallons 170F water, why did I only
get about 3 1/2 gallons in the primary fermenter (with no trub in the
kettle)? Assuming a gallon boiled off, I can't fathom 2 gallons being
held hostage in the grist, after a 45 minute sparge (with O.G. down to
about 1.002 - I know, I know, don't go below 1.004, but there was this
great article I was reading). One other thing (isn't there always?!);
I mashed in the night before, and left it sit overnight in the
insulated Gott cooler. Over 10 hours, it lost about 20 degrees. Any
affect?
Am I wrong to assume I can sparge any recipe to 6 gallons in the
kettle (and therefore 5 gallons in the fermenter)? After adding water
to go to 6 gallons, my O.G. was 1.048 (within range for an ESB
(1.046-1.060). Any sparging help gratefully appreciated.
TIA - Greg Carter
P.S. to Terry Selba - What's IMBR?
P.P.S. I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous
and give the wrong answers....
------------------------------
From: "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton@iastate.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:16:33 -0600
Subject: Glycerol in freezing yeast
Having searched the archives of the HBD, I have seen multiple references to
glycerol in the long term storage (read: freezing) of yeast. Is there a
commercially available source of glycerol somewhere? Otherwise I have to
go to the university's chem stores department and fill out paperwork till
my skin falls off. Apparently purchasing chemicals is not an everyday
thing there.
Any help is appreciated
Jeff
Jeffrey M. Kenton finger for PGP public key
ElEd/SecEd 301 Teaching Assistant
N013 Lagomarcino Hall "Information comes, knowledge lingers"
jkenton@iastate.edu - Alfred Lord Tennyson
------------------------------
From: "Ken Rentz" <rentzk@wssi.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:53:26 -800
Subject: Varying bitterness in a single batch
I just started sampling my first attempt at brewing (hopped extract
with some additional hops at the end for aroma), and am fairly
impressed with how it turned out. My wife and I have noticed however
that the bitterness seems to vary quite noticeably between bottles.
The beer was siphoned into a priming bucked and before bottling, and
there doesn't seem to be any sediment other than that from the yeast, so
I don't see how this could happen. The only thing that I've noticed
is that the bitterness seems to be stronger in bottles that haven't
been refrigerated for as long. Any idea what might be happening?
- --
Ken Rentz Wise Software Solutions, Inc.
CompuServe 74151,677 BBS (503) 526-0612
Mailto:rentzk@wssi.com FAX (503) 520-1759
http://www.gerbtool.com Phone (503) 626-7800
------------------------------
From: greg@chtree.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 16:44:33 -0800
Subject: pump wanted
Hello All,
I'm considering buying a pump to re-circulate mash runnings up to
170 deg, and to re-circ ice water during cooling. Any suggestions?
Greg
San Diego
------------------------------
From: "Tom L. Vitti" <tvitti@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 20:47:00 -0500
Subject: Trub-remove or not??
Hello Brewers!!
Been lurking the list for a while-now I finally have a question!
I am an extract brewer and my question is, should you or shouldn't you rack
the wort off the hop pellet and/or spice-herb residue from the boil before
primary ferm.?
or should you just dump the whole lot into the primary and then when ferm.
is over rack off into secondary leaving all the hop pellet and etc. behind.
Sound confusing? Well I am
Thanks to all in advance
------------------------------
From: Denis Barsalo <denisb@cam.org>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 21:36:47 -0500
Subject: Aseptox - One Step - Sanitiser
Hey gang,
There's this stuff here called Aseptox. I think in the US it's
called One-Step. Does anybody know how it works or what the chemical make
up of this stuff is? H2O3 ???
The way I understand how it works, it's supose to sanitise as it
releases oxygen. Sort of like peroxyde I guess. It comes as a white
"crystal like" powder that I mix with water. No smell, no rinse. How can I
*really* know it's working?
Denis
------------------------------
From: habanero@juno.com (Raymond P Kasprowicz)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 00:01:51 EST
Subject: Why is there condensation in my Secondary Fermenter ?
I have had my Oatmeal Stout in the Secondary now for little over a week
and I have noticed that there is some condensation on the top of the
carboy. I have the cap on tight and the airlock filled but it's still
there. Is it from the lack of C02 after the primary ferment ? Is this
anything I have to worry about ? In the future, what can I do to prevent
it if needed.
Thanks all.
------------------------------
From: Edward J. Steinkamp <ejs0742@dop.fse.ca.boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:31:35 PST
Subject: English Strong Spice ale recipe
I am brewing the following English Strong Spice Ale on Thursday
and would like to invite some comments on the recipe.
Specifically, I would like comments on the spice schedule since
I have not brewed a spice beer like this before. Private e-mail
is fine. Thank you.
Target Values:
- -------------
O.G. 1.070
IBU 52
Color ~20
Quantity 5.5 us gal
Assumed extr eff = 75%
Grain Bill
- ----------
12 lbs 2-row pale (Gambrinus)
1/8 lb chocolate
1/8 lb roasted barley
1.5 lb munich (gambrinus)
1/2 lb victory
1/2 lb malted wheat
1/2 lb carapils
Hop Schedule
- ------------
1.5 oz Chinook 60 min
1/2 oz Hallertauer 10 min
1/2 oz Hallertauer 1 min
1 tsp Irish moss for 15 min
Mash
- ----
Single step infusion mash at 153 F
Yeast
- -----
Wyeast London ESB #1968
Fermentation
- ------------
Primary at 65 - 70 F
Rouse after 3 days to prolong fermentation.
Secondary at 50 - 55 F for two weeks.
Spices added to secondary fermentation of 5 gallons:
- ----------------------------------------------------
1/2 oz. Ginger
9 inches of cinnamon stick
1 oz sweet orange peel
1/4 tsp Nutmeg
1/4 tsp Cloves
Combine spices with boiling water and seep for 3 minutes. Add
tea and bones to secondary.
What do you think??
Thanks,
Ed Steinkamp
------------------------------
From: Thomas Penn <tjpenn@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:03:46 -0400
Subject: Bravo to AJ
Thank you A.J. De Lange for an excellent experiment on O2 solubility.
Your experiments provide credible, useable information that will improve
all our beers. Thanks again.
Tom Penn
Bordentown, NJ
------------------------------
From: "Ted Hull" <THull@brwncald.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 2:22:23 EST
Subject: Deschutes/bottle filling
Question 1:
Does anyone know how widely distributed Deschutes beer
is? I have some friends who just visited Portland and loved it.
Now they're hoping to find it somewhere in the Southeast. I
tried to find the brewery online, but the only links were no
longer good.
Question 2:
I just bottled a batch of beer using a Phil's Philler
and felt like it injected a lot of air into the beer as I filled
the bottles. Anyone else get this impression? I'd been using one
of those plastic fillers w/ a spring loaded valve at the end,
but it kept falling off and causing me extreme stress as beer
suddenly flowed everywhere. I've already bought a new one,
though. The Philler would explain why I got some oxidation
comments on the last beer I entered in a competition.
Thanks
Ted Hull
Atlanta, GA
------------------------------
From: nelson@muck.isgs.uiuc.edu (Dan.Nelson)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:16:36 -0600
Subject: sources for curacao orange peel
Hello Folks:
Here's a list of sources for curacao orange peel. Thanks to everyone
who replied to my question. Because I was in a hurry, I picked one
semi-randomly (Frozen Wort, the first one to be recommended twice),
so I don't have any comparative information to offer.
Frozen Wort
Greenfield MA
413-773-5920
Recommended by: bill-giffin, Geoffrey A. McNally, mg
Homebrew Adventures
Mooresville, NC
704.535.2277.
Recommended by: Keith.Royster
BREWFELLOW'S
Buffalo, NY
http://www.dnci.com/brewfellow
$2.99 for a 4oz package
Recommended by: Terry
American Brewmaster
919-850-0095
$1.10 for a 2oz package
Recommended by: Jon
FH Steinbart
Recommended by: kdash
Hoppy Troll
New York (Cooperstown?)
1-800-???-????
One oz (dry weight) about $1
Recommended by: Peter A. Ensminger
Barlymalt & Vine
26 Elliot Street
Newton, MA
617 630-1015
Recommended by: Dean_Goulding
The Home Brewery
Everett, WA
(800) 850-BREW
Recommended by: Itself
Brewtopia Homebrew Supply
1-800-540-6258
http://www.negia.net/~brew
Recommended by: Larry Johnson
St Patricks's
Austin, TX
512-832-9045
http://www.stpats.com
1oz - $1.75
Recommended by: D.Kovatch, Barry Wertheim, KJ
Thanks again for all the replies,
Dan
------------------------------
From: "Bill Baker" <bbaker@mail.sunhealth.org>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 07:30:46 PST
Subject: Water Quality Questions
To All,
I have made the great leap forward and decided to go all grain. My
question has to do with water quality. For my extract recipes I was
buying r/o water; however, as I'd like to brew 10 gallon batches, I
would perfer to use my own water. Here is a listing of inorganics in
my water. Please email your responses to either my home email
(wallyaz@tribeca.ios.com) or to my work (bbaker@mail.sunhealth.org)
mg/L
alkalinity 188.
arsenic 0.008
barium <0.01
cadium <0.005
calcium 34.
chloride 18.
chromium 0.008
copper <0.01
flouride <0.4
hardness 163.
iron <0.01
lead <0.005
magnesium 19.
maganese <0.01
mercury <0.0002
nitrogen, nitrate 1.94
nitrogen, nitrate <0.01 (different test)
pH 8.1 standard units
selenium <0.005
silver <0.05
sodium 25.
solids, dissolved 237.
sulfate 10.
zinc 0.03
Thanks, any insight is appreciated.
Bill Baker
------------------------------
From: rbarnes@sdccd.cc.ca.us
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 08:10:09 pst
Subject: Stainless in Seattle/temp control
A friend has offered to make me a temperature controller for my
refrigerator. As I recall, someone has a schematic for a controller
somewhere on the net. Anyone know where?
(following was posted previously and showed up as "none")
Is anyone using the "no weld" false bottom-drain or thermometer
fittings from Stainless in Seattle? If so, how do you like them? Any
leaks, advantages/disadvantages? What do these items cost?
Thanks-Randy in San Diego
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2273
****************************
