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HOMEBREW Digest #2257
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/31 PST
Homebrew Digest Thursday, 31 October 1996 Number 2257
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Computer controlled RIMS - CIO-DAS08 (Ian Smith)
Film in carboy ("Peter J. Calinski")
KJ's Chiller and My Homebrew Gadgets Page (Marty Tippin)
Re: Christmas Ale-Brew Now or too late ("Edmund C. Hack")
KJ's Chiller (Marty Tippin)
KJ's Chiller and My Gadgets Page (Marty Tippin)
Re: CF Chiller sanitation ("Bridges, Scott")
re: Wort recirc (Charles Burns)
FW: obnoxious, Instant Lager, and the Aussie Recirculator ("Gregory, Guy J.")
Re: Refridgerator Penetration - Door or Wall? ((Jim Merrill - SMCC hardware))
Modifying Refrigerators / Munich Malt with Pale Malt -- Low Temp Rest? (KennyEddy@aol.com)
Re: Cracking up ("David R. Burley")
linearity of color measurements (Larry Johnson)
Re: Refridgerator Penetration - Door or Wall? (Dave Broughton - PICCO)
[None]...of the above ("Karl F. Lutzen")
RE: Christmas Ale-Brew Now or too late? (Larry Johnson)
*counter* intuitive ((Dennis J. Templeton))
Counter flow ("Keihm, Peter")
Re: Samuel SMITH , Samuel SMITH, Samuel SMITH, just practicing ("David R. Burley")
Good Condition Used Grain Mills ("OMAHONEY, LARRY -LLOM")
storing yeast slurry ("Ed J. Basgall")
zima wife (The Devil)
Ouch! How bad is it? (David Hammond)
Re:Mead fermentation and yeast storage (Jeanne Colon-Bonet)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs@netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 07:47:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Computer controlled RIMS - CIO-DAS08
Does anyone out there have any experience programming the Computerboards
CIO-DAS09/jr ? In particular does anyone have experience with their
control software called UniversalLibrary ?
Cheers
Ian Smith
isrs@rela.uucp.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: "Peter J. Calinski" <calinski@worf.calspan.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 09:57:55 -0500
Subject: Film in carboy
I am a new brewer. I aquired a carboy that had once been used for a
terrarium. I noticed a thin white "cloud like" film on portions of the
bottem and faintly on the side in one area. I attempted to clean it using
first, limeaway and then muriatic acid. Neither seemed to touch it. Since
it was only a faint "film" I decided to go ahead and brew with it anyway.
After all, I reasoned, either it was something etched into the glass or, if
the substances I tryed couldn't touch it, how could a little wort pick up
anything from it?
Now, after my first 2 batches, the film is much more pronounced. Looks like
white--very white, not a film-- powder on the same areas of the bottom. On
the sides, the light wisps have also turned into white "powder". I tryed
scraping; that didn't work. Then I tryed the muriatic acid again; never
touched it.
Any ideas what this could be and how to get rid of it?
Thanks in advance.
------------------------------
From: Marty Tippin <martyt@wwgv.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 07:23:39 -0500
Subject: KJ's Chiller and My Homebrew Gadgets Page
I know it's a bit late, but I've been in contact with KJ Sullivan and have
HTML'ized his design plans for that whiz-bang immersion chiller. KJ tells
me he is working on improved diagrams and some verbage to put around the
pictures so the page will be considerably more complete in the near future.
And on a somewhat related note, I've moved my "Homebrew Gadgets" page to a
new Internet Service Provider. KJ's chiller as well as several other nifty
gadgets are linked from that page.
The new URL is:
http://www.wwi.net/martyt
Check it out when you have a chance!
And yes, I've re-subscribed to the HBD. It looks like things have settled
down a bit and there's actually a little useful homebrew information being
exchanged from time to time. Of course, it also looks like Al and Dave are
still in nearly constant rant mode (or at least random ramble mode) but I
guess there's not much that can be done about that...
- -Marty
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #24: Never underestimate the
martyt@wwgv.com | power of human stupidity.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out my 2-Tier Converted Keg Brewing System Design Plans
and other homebrew gadgets at http://www.wwi.net/martyt
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Edmund C. Hack" <echack@crl.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 07:13:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Christmas Ale-Brew Now or too late
On Thu, 31 Oct 1996, TheTHP@aol.com wroten:
>
> Greetings all ye knowledgeable Masses,
>
> I was wondering if I made a christmas ale on thanksgiving day if it would be
> ready by christmas day? Assuming that I Keg it and Force carbonate it. Will
> it "Green"? The Recipe is from Victory Beers and is as follows:
> Anne's Choice Christmas Ale
[snip]
> 5 three-inch cinnamon sticks (simmer 45 minutes)
> 2 teaspoons allspice (simmer 45 minutes)
> 1 teaspoon cloves
> 6 ounces ginger root
> 6 rinds from medium-sized oranges (simmer 45 minutes)
[snip]
> *Age when judged (since bottling): six months <This is what worries me!?>
>
> Has anyone made this beer? Any suggestions are much appreciated
I've not made this particular brew, but I've made two similar ones, based
on Papazian's "Holiday Cheer" recipe in NCJHB. You should be concerned
over the amount of aging. The amount of ginger in the beer will probably
overwhelm everything else. I'd cut back quite a bit.
I found that the taste mellowed quite a bit as time went on. At first (3
weeks after bottling), the ginger was harsh and astringent. After a month
of cold conditioning in a fridge, it was much, much better. After about 3
months, it was very good. I'd cut back on the ginger and make it this
weekend.
Edmund Hack \ "If I had a time machine,
echack@crl.com\ I know just where I'd go." - Al Stewart
------------------------------
From: Marty Tippin <martyt@wwgv.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 20:50:06 -0500
Subject: KJ's Chiller
I've taken KJ Sullivan's drawings for his nifty immersion chiller and
web-ized them. KJ is working on improved drawings and some words to put
around them which will help flesh out the web page. But for now the images
are online, linked from my Homebrew Gadgets page; the URL is below.
And yes, I have re-subscribed to the HBD - I've been following from the web
version of the HBD at The Brewery for a while and thought things had finally
returned to useful content rather than name calling, etc. But then I see
Dave Burley and Al Korzonis going at it again in the past few issues and am
forced to wonder how much improvement there's been. Give it a rest, guys...
- -Marty
|====================================================================
|Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #8: No matter where you
|martyt@wwgv.com | are, you can always tune in a bad
| | radio station.
| http://www.wwi.net/martyt - Marty's Homebrew Gadgets Page
|====================================================================
------------------------------
From: Marty Tippin <martyt@wwgv.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 08:53:08 -0500
Subject: KJ's Chiller and My Gadgets Page
I know it's a bit late, but I've been in contact with KJ Sullivan and have
HTML'ized his design plans for that whiz-bang immersion chiller. KJ tells
me he is working on improved diagrams and some verbage to put around the
pictures so the page will be considerably more complete in the near future.
And on a somewhat related note, I've moved my "Homebrew Gadgets" page to a
new Internet Service Provider. KJ's chiller as well as several other nifty
gadgets are linked from that page.
The new URL is:
http://www.wwi.net/martyt
Check it out when you have a chance!
And yes, I've re-subscribed to the HBD. It looks like things have settled
down a bit and there's actually a little useful homebrew information being
exchanged from time to time. Of course, it also looks like Al and Dave are
still in nearly constant rant mode (or at least random ramble mode) but I
guess there's not much that can be done about that...
- -Marty
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #24: Never underestimate the
martyt@wwgv.com | power of human stupidity.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out my 2-Tier Converted Keg Brewing System Design Plans
and other homebrew gadgets at http://www.wwi.net/martyt
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess@mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 10:11:00 PST
Subject: Re: CF Chiller sanitation
>From: The Holders <zymie@sprynet.com>
>Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:27:45 -0800
>Subject: Chiller sanitation
>
>To anyone using a counter flow chiller, or anyone that has heard of
>one, what is the recommended method of cleaning/sanitation?
Wayne,
I use a 3-pronged approach to CF Chiller sanitation, which is likely
overkill. Since you can't see in there, I want to make really sure that
it's clean *and* sanitized. Before use: 1) run a solution of B-Brite
(actually Electrosol DW detergent) through it, 2) rinse with boiling water,
and 3) sanitize with Iodophor. After this, I'm pretty confident that I
don't have any nasties in there. After use, I follow the same process,
sometimes omitting the Iodophor. Like all brewing equipment, it's easier to
sanitize later if you make sure to clean it right after you use it.
Scott
------------------------------
From: Charles Burns <cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 07:56:52 -0800
Subject: re: Wort recirc
Jim Thomas asks:
>anybody have any thoughts on recirculation of runnings in the mash
> tun? I've secured a small Grainger solution pump and have wired it
> up with a motor speed controller and have configured my system to
> "automate" the recirculation process. I mash in an insulated cooler
> so I don't have a way to directly add heat (a la RIMS), but I'm
> considering recirculating the mash liquor for a portion of mash,
> say, the last 20 minutes. Any thoughts???
>
Dave Burley suggests:
:Jim, why not pass this recirculated wort through a coil of copper
tubing
:sitting in a bucket of hot or boiling water to heat it up. I'm sure it
:will work best if you pump it in from the bottom and use a counter- (
or :anti-) clockwise (left hand rule) wrap.
This is one of the best suggestions i've seen in a while. I've got the
same setup and am having a hard time holding temp. I'm gonna try this,
but, I can't resist this question for Dave:
Why recirculate counter clockwise? What the heck does the direction of
flow matter when all we're doing is transferring heat? I understand the
need to enter at the bottom, makes a lot of sense. BTW, if we live south
of the equator, are you recommending we do it clockwise;-)?
Charley
------------------------------
From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461@ecy.wa.gov>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 07:50:00 PST
Subject: FW: obnoxious, Instant Lager, and the Aussie Recirculator
first posted to #2253, now lost in space:
The recent yeast thread, started by JSchmidling, about pitching on top of
other yeast:
A couple of questions....is there any taste difference to these fast
ferments? Do you chill your wort down real low (say, 5 degrees C or so)
prior to pitching? Does the increased fermentation activity generate
additional heat in the beer? I'm gonna try this with a porter this weekend,
using Wyeast London yeast in the secondary now fermenting a lighter ale.
____
For those interested, the Aussie recirculation system (which I think is
really groovy) is similar to vertical circulation wells used to extract
volatile chemicals from ground water. I found a paper on flow regarding
these wells, with integrals, differential equations, and everything,
describing flow within these kinds of systems. It was written by Philip
and Walter, in the Sept.-Oct. 1992 issue of Ground Water, v. 30, no. 5.
The solution to the flow problem seems relevant to model wort flow in this
system.
____
My personal pledge:
I'll attempt to engage in no more obnoxious authoritarian BS as long as I
can. I promise that I'll engage in no personal attacks, unless of course my
mother in law begins posting to this forum. I'll forgive and forget, and
extract only those gems of information which are supported by data. I'll
ignore those which are not supported by data, and those which I don't
understand. I'll relax, brew in plastic if I want, and know that most of my
brewing technique is lousy enough that effects of minutae at this time will
not measurably negatively impact my beer. Hopefully, someday, they will.
I'll also probably try out every neato idea I read, and proceed on my own
to make better beer. I won't bitch about the AHA, HSA, Wyeast, or RIMS.
I'll laugh at babcock's jokes. I'll not waste bandwith any more. And I
will type with a happy heart and hope for my fellow brewers.
Cheers..its a hobby, a hobby, a hobby.....
Guy Gregory
GuyG4@aol.com
Lightning Creek Home Brewery
------------------------------
From: jmerrill@brauhaus.Sun.COM (Jim Merrill - SMCC hardware)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 11:17:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Refridgerator Penetration - Door or Wall?
Charley,
Most refridgerators don't have coils in the sides. The SAFEST thing to do
is to call the service department of the manufacturer and ask them. Thats
what I did it only takes 5 minutes.
My taps are on the front door. I might have put them on the side if I had
better access to the side of the frig. I have long hoses because I use a
"beer mix", part nitrogen part CO2 in the same tank, and if I don't hold the
kegs at a higher pressure they aren't carbonated enough.
Some other things to keep in mind.
- Look at using quick disconnects for the CO2 line. This comes in
real handy when you want to snap on a diff. attachment. At the very
least, make sure all of your connections are screw not hose barb.
- Instead of using a "T", they sell a "Y" connector which you can
attach 2 check valves on the output. I use a "T" and when 2 kegs
are attached, both FULL, and I release pressure in 1 of them, beer
can come up the CO2 line from the other keg as it tries to
equalize. I know, just disconnect the CO2 line, but I'm lazy and
only do this when I first tap a keg to drop the pressure after force
carbonation. Better yet get a second single regulator and you
can daisy chain them together, having 2 kegs at diff pressures. ($$$)
- With that many taps I'd look at the multiple taps from a single
shank configuration. It will cut down on the number of holes you
need to cut.
- I went to a fire extinguisher store and bought a bracket for my 5 lb
tank. I mounted my CO2 tank on the side of the frig so that the tank
valve is just below the top of the frig. I drilled a hole in the side, put a
rubber grommet on both the inside edge and outside edge of the
hole and pulled my line through it.
For parts look at Rapids or Fox. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck !!!!
- -Jim
------------------------------
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 11:27:04 -0500
Subject: Modifying Refrigerators / Munich Malt with Pale Malt -- Low Temp Rest?
Lotsa talk these days about modifying refrigerators to hold more carboys or
kegs or whatever. Here's a simple mod that might be enough for you, without
resorting to adding extension collars and the like.
Most fridges I've seen (including the one I modified for my keg service) have
a vacuum-formed plastic sheet for the inside of the door. Various shelves
and cubby-holes are molded in. If you peel back the door gasket a bit,
you'll see a bunch of screws around the door's perimeter. The screws clamp
the molded shelf sheet against the door, while holding the gasket in place.
Remove all the screws and take off the plastic panel and gasket. Lay it over
a 1/8" sheet of Masonite, plywood, acrylic, whatever you like. Using the
door shelf panel as a template, mark the outline and the screw hole
locations. Cut out the masonite panel along the outline and drill out the
screw holes. Assemble along with the gasket to the fridge door. You now
have picked up at least 6" of depth front-to-back inside the fridge.
This was adequate in my case to put *four* cornies in a small apartment-sized
fridge while still retaining one shelf for miscellaneous stuff. Idon't know
the exact cf rating {does it include the freezer?} but the fridge part is
about 4' high by 20" wide by 18" deep. This also provides a clean flat
surface so you can mount faucet taps on the door. I also mounted some
plastic trays to the door, serving as shelves/tubs, to hold yeast slants and
other incidentals. The two cornies in the rear sit up on the "hump" housing
the compressor stuff. If your "hump" is not flat, you might have to rig up
some sort of shelf arrangement but that should be simple enough.
Another question (Charley Burns) was where to drill faucet/tubing holes and
how. Look inside your fridge & freezer. If you see a flat metal panel
hanging on the backside of the inside of your fridge, chances are that the
refrigerant circuit is in this panel and not in coils in the walls, so it
should be safe to drill wherever you like. If you don't see such a panel,
then chances are the refrigerant is inside the walls, so the door would be
the only safe place to drill.
I used a 1" (I think) hole saw. A twist drill this size would be expensive
and hard to use. Those flat hole drill blades for wood _will_not_work_ if
the fridge "skin" is metal (check my trash can for proof!). And as for the
hoses getting in the way, you can try running them along the door panel in a
bundle to the hinged side of the door, where you lash them together with
string or wire or a cable tie. A small screw-eye in the door panel can serve
to anchor the lash (see how nice this panel replacement is?). Once you
arrange them like this they should stay out of your way.
Finally, a suggestion I've made before (but never done myself) concerns chest
freezers. Cooling coils are almost always in the walls of these things, so
people either mount tower faucets through the top or build a wooden "collar"
along the top edge, removing & remounting the lid to it, and drilling holes
for door faucets in the wood. This requires disassembly of the lid and some
body & fender work on the freezer. My suggestion (has anyone tried it yet?)
was to instead build a *wedge* frame of wood which simply slips under the lid
(which is still attached to the freezer). A strip of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood
maybe 4" - 6" "tall" running the width of the freezer serves as the front of
the wedge; this is drilled to accomodate taps. The sides are plywood
triangles tapering from the same height as the panel up front to a point in
the rear. Some weatherstripping, a chunk of insulation, or a narrow strip of
wood along the back edge should seal any gap there, and weatherstripping
along all the edges of the plywood will seal against the freezer sides and
the lid. And your warranty is still good.
*****
Russ Brodeur asks about low-temp rests when using munich etc malts:
"Would it be
advisable to include a certain percentage of low-kilned malt, such as
pils, in the grist? And if so; how much is enough? "
Russ, I've made an "OktoberAle" a couple of times, using pale ale malt (70%)
and munich (30%) [these %'s neglect the tad of wheat malt tossed in for good
measure]. In both cases, especially in the latest, the beer was
crystal-clear; in fact, it's the most brilliant beer I've made yet. So if
that's any indication, you'll have to look elsewhere for your haze problems.
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 31 Oct 96 11:50:26 EST
Subject: Re: Cracking up
Brewsters:
Marshall Muller asks:
> When cracking grains, what sized particles should I aim for?
> e.g. Should each grain be cracked into say 4 pieces, 8 pieces, 32 .....
Books say something like three to six pieces, but you and other HBDers may
interested in a method I developed using a small adjustable mill. It provides a
superior product in that the husks remain whole and the malt is crushed to
small
( say 2 - 3 mm) particles without a lot of flour. The basic procedure is to
mill the grain twice. Sounds like it would take twice as long, but it is
actually substantially shorter than a single milling to give a product of
similar particle size. Basically, I do what the big boys do with their 6 roller
mills - mill the grain more than once, except I have the equivalent of a 4
roller mill when I do it my way.
Here's how I do it. Close the mill nip down,start the motor (I use my
drillmotor) open the nip until it is apparent the mill is operating efficiently
and grains are going through. I have measured this nip with a spark plug
gapping guage and find it varies between 0.07 and 0.08 in.( approx 2 mm) for
most malts. I can mill 10# (4.5 kg) of malt in a few ( say 3 -5 ) minutes.
This provides cracked malt grains, many still inside the husk and whole husks.
I then reset the gap to 0.055 to 0.06 in.( aprox 1.5 mm) and remill, again
taking about 5 - 10 min or so. This will give me extremely high efficiencies of
conversion and a smooth sparge, since I have whole barley husks, a uniform and
small particle size and almost no flour.
I did an experiment in which I used different size nips and got OGs of
1.035,1.045, 1.060 and 1.064 for the same grist, depending on the settings. Now
with this double mill procedure my efficiencies are in the 90's. So don't let
anyone tell you that the mill isn't important in providing a good brew session.
I don't want to start the old mill thread all over again, but this ability to
multiply mill the same grain at different settings speaks in favor of the
adjustable mill.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Larry Johnson <Maltster@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 08:58:19 -0800
Subject: linearity of color measurements
Peter writes:
>>If not, perhaps they could
>>explain WHY beer does not obey the Beer-Lambert Law. I can think of three
>>possible reasons which spectroscopists commonly encounter (but can correct
>>for):
<snip>
>
and then Al K. writes:
>I have a fourth possibile reason, but please consider this *wild speculation*.
>If I recall correctly, Ray Daniels found the colour change when diluting beer
>(say Salvator) with water to be non-linear, whereas when diluting the
>Salvator with a lighter beer (let's say Coors), to be linear.
>My wildly speculative reason is: pH. Could pH be what's throwing off
>the colour linearity? I know that adding lemon juice to iced tea makes
>it get quite a bit more pale... I haven't taken the time to check if the
>non-linearity is even in the right direction, but I'm tossing this out
>for discussion.
I'm not able to confirm or deny the effect of pH; I just have another "wild
speculation". How about the effect of alcohol in the solution. You know
when you add 50 ml of alcohol to 50 ml of water, you get something less than
100 ml of liquid. This is because the smaller water molecules can fit
between the larger alcohol molecules. Like a half bucket of sand poured
into a half bucket of pebbles.
What if this makes a difference in the optical qualities? Adding water to
beer would change the alcohol/water ratio more than adding beer to beer. If
this is the source of the difference, then you should be able to repeat the
effect by using a solution of alcohol and water that was the same %ABV as
the original sample. In fact, it would be even more accurate, since you
would not be adding even that little bit of color that Coors has.
What ya think, Al? Could it be a little of both, mebbe? I certainly don't
know.
Larry "speculation is my middle name" Johnson
Athens, GA / maltster@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: Dave Broughton - PICCO <dave@picco.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 08:52:34 PST
Subject: Re: Refridgerator Penetration - Door or Wall?
The door is the safest place to install taps. You don't know where the coolent
and electrical lines run in the walls. Also, once you get the fridge stocked
you only need to open the door when you replace a keg.
I use a hole saw to drill my holes, it takes about 10 seconds to go thru the
plastic, insulation and metal. Sears seems to have the best supply. Just take
your tap in and buy one that is slightly larger than the part that goes thru
the door.
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| David Broughton (206)927-6910 x30 |
| Puyallup Integrated Circuit Company (206)927-6673 Fax |
| 33838 Pacific Hwy S., Suite 211 dave@picco.com |
| Federal Way, WA 98003 http://www.picco.com |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
------------------------------
From: "Karl F. Lutzen" <lutzen@alpha.rollanet.org>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 11:03:27 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [None]...of the above
I have a theory about 'Subject: [none]' posts: It's the automated filter
at the AOB taking out posts that degrade the AOB and any of it's
affiliations.
....if you believe this, I have some wonderful beach front property for
sale...
Disclaimer for the inevitable consequences:
People: this is a joke. Do not start a thread based on it.
Seriously, I know that I made a post about a week ago, which has never
appeared. Did it turn into a [none]? I don't know, only our janitor is
capable of telling us. I do know that HBD 2253 has vanished. Was it ever
posted? Janitor?
==================================================================
Karl Lutzen lutzen@alpha.rollanet.org
System Administrator
The Brewery http://alpha.rollanet.org/
------------------------------
From: Larry Johnson <Maltster@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 09:05:59 -0800
Subject: RE: Christmas Ale-Brew Now or too late?
Phil Wilcox asks the burning question:
>Greetings all ye knowledgeable Masses,
>I was wondering if I made a christmas ale on thanksgiving day if it would be
>ready by christmas day?
<snip really yummy-sounding spiced ale recipe>
Phil, I hate to be a downer but any and all spiced ales I have brewed (1) or
tasted (many) were always pretty rough around the edges for the first few
months of conditioning. This recipe may be different and I admit that I've
never brewed it, but I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope, even if you brewed
it right now.
Other opinions may differ. Good luck with it, whatever you do.
Larry Johnson / Athens, GA / maltster@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: djt2@po.cwru.edu (Dennis J. Templeton)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:06:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: *counter* intuitive
Al writes:
>I've been trying to stay out of the chiller discussion, but I must point out
>a few things:
>Wade writes:
>>a counterflow heat exchanger has the hot fluid inlet and the cold
>>fluid outlet at the same end
>
>This is backwards. For the flows to be *counter* to each other, the hot
>flow and cold flow have to be in opposite directions. In the case of
>a tube in a hose, that means the hot inlet and cold inlet are at opposite
>ends of the tubing/hose.
<snip>
No, Wade has it right, the hot inlet and the cold *outlet* are at the same
end, therefore the flow is counterflow.
Al should have read Wade more carefully, though his lengthy response is
also correct.
------------------------------
From: "Keihm, Peter" <pkeihm@broc.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:14:31 -0500
Subject: Counter flow
In the Digest #2256 Al Korzonas wrote:
>Wade writes:
>>a counterflow heat exchanger has the hot fluid inlet and the cold
>>fluid outlet at the same end
>This is backwards. For the flows to be *counter* to each other, the hot
>flow and cold flow have to be in opposite directions. In the case of
>a tube in a hose, that means the hot inlet and cold inlet are at opposite
>ends of the tubing/hose.
This is NOT backwards. Al, If you had read it, you would see that it
says the hot fluid INlet and cold fluid OUTlet are at the same end. If
you want to have the final word on something, please make sure you
understand what someone has posted. Don't say they are wrong and correct
it with a "me too" response.
Peter
pkeihm@broc.com
Atlanta,GA
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 31 Oct 96 12:31:37 EST
Subject: Re: Samuel SMITH , Samuel SMITH, Samuel SMITH, just practicing
Brewsters:
Suzette (no relation) Smith says:
> Dave,
> It's Samuel SMITH (no relation) of Tadcaster England, and Sam Adams of the
> USA. Aside from the first names, there is no similarities between these
> beers. Samuel Smith has been at it longer and does it better than Sam
> Adams can ever hope to brew.
I think the Duvel made me do it.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: "OMAHONEY, LARRY -LLOM" <LLOM@chevron.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 09:43:00 -0800
Subject: Good Condition Used Grain Mills
Anyone out there with a PHILMILL, Valley Mill or other roller mill who
wants to sell for a reasonable price? I'm going to have to go all-grain
soon.
Private email is fine.
Larry
------------------------------
From: "Ed J. Basgall" <edb@chem.psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 12:44:33 EST
Subject: storing yeast slurry
*From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb@elmer.fing.edu.uy>
*Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:46:27 -0300 (UY)
*Subject: Mead fermentation and yeast storage
*Another question. I need to use the yeasts again. I will take the yeast
*slurry and storage it in the refrigerator. Should I use an airlock or
*just cap the container? Should I take the slurry from the primary or from
*the secondary?
Hi Jorge,
I do this a lot and pour the slurry from my primary through a sanitized
funnel into a sanitized bottle and cap it. I have store this in the refrig
for up to a year. SLOWLY open the cap while still cold to bleed off any
pressure that may have built up. Then I make a starter for a new batch from
this slurry. An airlock may let unwanted organisms into your slurry, as it
cools down the gas contracts and the airlock contents will suck into the
slurry.
good luck
Ed Basgall
SCUM
State College Underground Maltsters
------------------------------
From: The Devil <satan@psycho.chicken.org>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 09:37:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: zima wife
Pete wrote:
> Has anyone attempted to brew an all grain malt brew similar
> to zima? How was it done and what was the outcome? This could be a way
> to convince my wife that advanced home-brewing equipment can benefit her
> also.
I believe that this is a clear indication that it's time to get a new
wife. My fiance encourages me to brew whenever I can, because she really
likes the dark, chewy, powerful stuff I make. Now that I think about it,
she's the only chick I know who prefers dark beers to light ones. As an
added bonus, brewing counts as housework in her mind -- not the loafing
when the boil is going, only the real work.
I suggest hanging out at your local brewpub, and hitting on the chicks
that order dark beers. They'll appreciate your brew.
chillin'
Big D
------------------------------
From: David Hammond <hammond@nexen.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 13:18:19 -0500
Subject: Ouch! How bad is it?
Hi, all...
In my ignorance, I have dry hopped into my primary fermenter.
I've since discovered that this was a *bad* thing to do (Charlie
P. says to absolutely avoid doing this).
So, is it worth saving? It doesn't smell all that great, but
it is still undergoing rather active fermentation. I've got
half a mind to dump it and use the carboy to ferment a stout
recipe I've got waiting in the wings.
So what do you all think?
Dave
------------------------------
From: Jeanne Colon-Bonet <jmcb@jeanne.fc.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 11:18:08 -0700
Subject: Re:Mead fermentation and yeast storage
Jorge Blasig questions on mead...
>> I need to rack before autolysis starts but I do not know whether I should
>> do it before bubbling stops completely.
The bubbling means the yeast is healthy. After 3 weeks... I would rack it now.
>> bubbling has been continuous. Do you
>> believe there might be some kind of problem?
No, this is a good thing.
>> I believe alcohol
>> content should be around 13 - 14% and fermentation would take longer for
>> this high level of alcohol. Do you think I am right?
You are right. You have the technology to control the alcohol! Typically
I will check the gravity often and I will have a goal in mind. Sometimes
the yeast is ~really~ healthy and will ferment your mead into something
very dry. Other times the yeast is very ~weak~ and will die out
leaving you with something sweet. If it is too healthy kill it off (cold
temperatures are good for that), too weak - induce a healthier culture.
Dry to me is when the gravity drops below 1.0, sweet to me is above 1.015.
(I like 'em dry and bubbly). For the secondary sometimes I put the carboy
in a dark, lonely corner in the basement and forget about it for a year.
That's drastic but the key is patience for meads. The lonely part makes it
lively when it gets to play on your pallet :-)
>> Another question. I need to use the yeasts again. I will take the yeast
>> slurry and storage it in the refrigerator. Should I use an airlock or
>> just cap the container?
Airlock, don't pressurize the yeast you may get a mess.
>> Should I take the slurry from the primary or from
>> the secondary?
Primary will have the healthiest cultures.
The *thing* about meads is that the yeast gets so stressed due to the
high alchohol tward the end of fermentation it starts to drown in
it. Racking will get rid of the old dead cells, revitalize the new cells and
reduce your chances of autolysis. There is a fine line between the
two (removing the yeast v/s leaving the mead on the dead yeast cells too
long) but (IMHO) three weeks and a low bubbling is a good time to rack.
Good luck, hope this helps, Jeanne.
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2257
****************************
