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HOMEBREW Digest #2251
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/28 PST
Homebrew Digest Monday, 28 October 1996 Number 2251
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
How hard to boil? ("Steven J. Bortnick")
Can't we all just get along (Terry White)
IPA yeasts & 1318 (Kathy Booth )
Instant Lager?` (Jack Schmidling)
O2 & plastic ((David Hill))
Hydrometer vs refractometer (JohnT6020@aol.com)
carbonation question (faymi@earlham.edu)
Things that Matter (Michael Gerholdt)
BT/AHA-Clubs/Labels/G.Fix/Zen/Smoke (Rob Moline)
Te*t (Rob Moline)
Grolsch bottles (TPuskar@aol.com)
Use of Primitive Metric System -- NOT! ((John W. Braue, III))
Bass != IPA ((John W. Braue, III))
Re: Constructive criticism (ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT)
Brewing Techniques (TPuskar@aol.com)
Re:Cancell Subscription (Michael Azzariti <"efxguy)
Porter Temp? (Timothy J Kniveton)
Is there a digest janitor in the house?? ("Robert Marshall")
SUBMISSIONS (Rex Clingan)
teat dip question (James Murphy)
Did you forget why you started? (Robert McMahon)
Re: Porter Temp? (Kraig Krist)
Re: Molasses Beer ((Geoff Scott))
Subject: [none] (Mark Warrington)
Results of Counter Flow Wort Chiller Tests (dan morley)
bitterness perception / !!??! ("MASSIMO FARAGGI")
re: Mashing specialty grains/Munich malt ((Bill Giffin))
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Steven J. Bortnick" <automan@ici.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 16:03:44 -0400
Subject: How hard to boil?
I have a question,
I just got a big propane type king cooker at about 117,000 btu's. How
hard should I let wort boil?
Heavy Boil?
Rolling Boil?
Light Boil?
Does it matter? hehhe
Steven
- --
"I Am The Lizard King, I Can Do Anything"
"Relax. Don't Worry. Have A Homebrew"
"Opinions Are Like Assholes...Everyone Got One"
"I Am The First Truly Automatic Man"
"Use The Force..... Trust Your Feelings"
http://www.ici.net/cust_pages/automan/automan.html
------------------------------
From: Terry White <brew@buffnet.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 16:50:28 -0700
Subject: Can't we all just get along
Hi All,
I have subscribed to this digest for about six months and in general I
find it a great source of ideas and inspiration but what is with all the
bickering. I think everyone should take a deep breath and try to
remember IT IS A HOBBY!!! All this arguing is just a waste of time. We
might even get more people posting ideas if they weren't scare of someone
jumping down their throat if they make a mistake. So stop all the stupid
bickering and make some beer. It is a HOBBY and if it causes you this
much stress maybe you should find something else to do with your time, I
hear needle point has a calming effect.
Terry
------------------------------
From: Kathy Booth <kbooth@waverly.k12.mi.us>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 17:05:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: IPA yeasts & 1318
This is a summary of the advices I received regarding IPA yeast choices:
Ken Jucks suggested the US Ale by RTP yeast line, which is also used by S.
Adams for their Boston Ale. (Inside source)
Jon Yusko recommended ESB 1968 as his choice over the London Ale 1318
(Wyeast) that I'd inquired about.
Greg Pickles observed that 1318 was very slow and needed time to work in
his experience.
smarman had found 1318 just "so-so" and that it doesn ferment out so good;
for highly hopped ales the low attentuation left a sweetness to balance
the hoppiness. His preference was Wyeast 1028 for IPA's.
Bryon Kuhl sent helpful yeast profiles and said 1968 was his choice.
Larry O used 1056 and enjoyed his IPA.
Thom Tomlinson in his Brew Techniques article May/June 1994 on India Pale
Ale recommends "the yeast should contribute some esters and impart a
minerally flavor to the beer". He comments Wyeast #1028 London Ale yeas
offer a rich, minerally profile and produces fruity esters. !056 is "too
clean especially if the OG is in the low 1.050's".
Yeast Lab A04 was the only yeast I could by locally that had the "esters
and minerally" profile as 1028 wasn't available. I brewed a pale ale and
used the 1318 in that,
the A04 in a OG 1.062 IPA, and mixed the two yeasts to use in a 1.080
strong ale.
Thanks to all who contributed. Cheers jim booth, lansing, mi email to
kbooth@scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us as the address on the server will bounce.
kudos to those who do the heavy lifting on the HBD by sharing special
research or expertise, and to the AOB for the apparently thankless task of
staffing the HBD.
------------------------------
From: Jack Schmidling <arf@mc.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 15:01:21 -0700
Subject: Instant Lager?`
As a long time yeast culturer, the idea of re-using yeast from a
previous batch seems nothing short of blasphemous. However, wanting
to get another batch in before the cold weather, I thought I would give
it a try.
After kegging the previous batch, I poured the sludge from the fermenter
into a sterile kettle and pitched this into the wort Thursday eve. It
was fermenting within an hour, by morning it was done and now (Sat), it
is clear enough to keg and tastes like any other young beer ready to
keg. That's 48 hrs, in case you have lost track. (gravity 45, temp 40F)
Have I been missing something?
js
- --
Visit our WEB pages:
Beer Stuff: http://dezines.com/@your.service/jsp/
Astronomy: http://user.mc.net/arf/
------------------------------
From: davidh@melbpc.org.au (David Hill)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 10:22:57 +1100 (EST)
Subject: O2 & plastic
Chuck Burkins, if I understand him correctly, suggests that
the permiability of plastic fermenters to oxygen is of no
concern because thanks to the flushing effects of the CO2
produced by fermentation any oxygen that crosses the plastic
will merely pass through the beer and outgas to the surface.
It would seem to me that if Chuck's theory is correct then
during the fermentation period the flushing effect caused
by the CO2 production will keep the partial pressure of O2
in the beer extremely low.
This will encourage more O2 to cross the plastic wall.
Hence the CO2 production during active fermentation would
cause a greater total ammount of O2 to enter the beer than
would be the case when no fermentation was occuring.
I doubt that the flushing effect is so efficient and so
rapid that the O2 passing through the plastic, then
through the volume of the beer on its way to the head
space is prevented from reacting with beer components.
Just a thought,
a neuronal outgassing,
Best Wishes
David Hill :-)>
------------------------------
From: JohnT6020@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 22:37:04 -0400
Subject: Hydrometer vs refractometer
I fervent hope is for someone to help me relate hydrometer readings to
refractometer readings for a refractometer calibrated in Brix or Balling.
At OG there is not much of a problem; the hydrometer and the refractometer
are measuring the same thing. The hydrometer reading and a Plato table will
be in close agreement. The problem arises in trying to monitor a
fermentation when alcohol is present to modify the hydrometer reading. How
does it affect the Refractometer reading?
The, at the end of fermentation, the hydrometer indicates FG which includes
the combined effect of alcohol and residual dissolved solids. What is the
refractometer measuring at this point?
73,
JET
------------------------------
From: faymi@earlham.edu
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 22:15:42 EST
Subject: carbonation question
I am a relative novice brewer (8-10 batches under my belt, all pretty damn good
if I don't say so myself) but I have one minor problem that I haven't found a
good answer for. The last three batches have not cabonated fully. They do
carbonate some, there's a little pfft when I pop one open, but the beer is not
as carbonated as usual. I have been consistantly been using 1.25 cups dme to
prime leaving them to carbonate for about a week and a half minimum after
around 1-2 weeks fermenting. The only differences between the rest and these
last three are that they are partial mash and they were brewed in a different
location, namely my new house where they ferment in the basement. Either of
these two things be the cause? Or is it something else I overlooked?
Any comments would be much appreciated.
Michael
------------------------------
From: Michael Gerholdt <gerholdt@ait.fredonia.edu>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 96 00:30:00 -0500
Subject: Things that Matter
- -- [ From: Michael Gerholdt * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
There will always be a sort of tension between practicality and "final truth
." Some of us want practical solutions, immediate and not so very convoluted
, to practical situations. Others of us are just as interested in what is
really, below the threshold of pure practicality, the case.
Immersion chillers: Cold water in at the top, or in at the bottom? After
making his assertion that bottoms up is the way to go, George de Piro says:
It doesn't really matter.
Practically speaking, it surely doesn't, when we're considering 5 or 10
gallon batches. Yet the arguments that press the minute data points are the
very stuff of life for some of us, and I for one am interested. After all, I
do believe that, ultimately, what seems like pure theory is really connected
to practical reality, and in the end the dichotomy doesn't exist. To me it
matters which way the water flows in the chiller. I bet that in George's
chiller, it flows from the bottom up. Why? Because he doesn't really believe
that "It doesn't really matter."
Of course, what he's saying is that it isn't important enough to make a big
deal about, and I agree. But I don't think there need be an apology for
discussing what the case really is.
I posted that I thought immersion chillers should be fed from the top down,
because there is a greater difference in temperature between the cold
entrance water and the hot wort at the pot top. George says it should be
from the bottom up, because the temperature difference between water and
wort remains greater *over the entire length of the chiller".
The common basis is the fact that the greater the thermal difference, the
greater the transfer of heat from one to the other.
If the cold water enters at the bottom, where the difference in temp is the
least, the idea would be that the water in the chiller isn't heated as much
as it is by the wort at the top of the kettle. Therefore, though it *is*
heated some, it remains cooler near the top of the wort than it would be at
the bottom had it come from the top and been heated by the hot wort at the
pot top. According to George.
It may be that this is correct as over against my assertion to the contrary.
I'm not sure. The way to test this would be to pump the same amount of the
same temp water though the same amount/temp water in each direction, and
measure the temp of the exit water. The hotter exit water wins, because it
is drawing away more heat - right?
I don't have an immersion chiller. If someone else does and would perform
such a test over the next few batches, I'd be interested in results. Or, if
the test has been performed and results already posted in HBD, does someone
have a reference?
George ... No, didn't sound/seem patronizing or any of those other things.
Hope *this* doesn't sound like a slam or a flame.
- --
------------------------------
From: Rob Moline <brewer@kansas.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 23:50:04 -0500
Subject: BT/AHA-Clubs/Labels/G.Fix/Zen/Smoke
The Jethro Gump Report
***This is a condensed version of my 2 previous posts, acknowledged by
majodomo, but listed as "No Subject"...my verbosity may be killing me..;-)***
>More importantly BT totally ignores the newbie brewer.
Jethro finds this amusing, when it is obvious that BT has been
working to accommodate the home brewer....the HBD is, by far, more technical
than BT...but with 12 batches in 2 years, try "Brew Your Own" magazine...it
deals directly with beginning brewers. You might like it.
>It is my understanding that there has been an alternative to the
>AHA for many many years, YOUR LOCAL HOMEBREWING CLUB!!!!!!
As a recovering homebrewer, I agree with you...your local club is a
great source of info...I learned more in 30 minutes at a club (North Florida
Brewers League, Tallahassee, Fla.) than in the preceeding 6 months....
And in Savannah, Ga...when setting up the first club (Savannah
Brewers League) and HB shop in town...we were proud to affiliate with the
AHA....
'Cos they had "Zymurgy," which took the time to teach 'newbies'..and
had all these books one could learn from..and a listing to attract new members.
I can state that the best brewers I have known were members of clubs
I attended....they easily run rings around me....(Klugh Kennedy of Savannah,
and Marc Gaspard of Tallahassee come first to mind).....
But the AHA fills a gap that you and I can't; recruiting on a
national scale, in numbers that can't be duplicated in a single city, or
club...if it gets them started, it can't be all bad. NCJOHB was my 1st brew
book, and eagerly devoured. (Over and over and over.)
I have doubts about various situations...but FWIW, the AHA
is the best intro there is..(but next time you go to China, Charlie, I'm
free to accompany you!) If you outgrow them....move on..
ATF Label Approval-
I am currently asking some folks with more experience for help on
this one...will get back to you....
George Fix-
I'm honored, sir!
Zen Masters-
I can assure you, the only time I am beyond all-grain, is when I
leave the brewery.
Smoke-
I made a smoked porter with 10 % H. Baird medium peated malt. Folks
loved it or hated it, no middle ground. The peat did give phenolics that
were reported by some to be 'band-aid'y. Next time I think I will go 5-7 %.
(It did get to 2nd round GABF, though.)
Jethro (Maybe This Time It Will Get Posted) Gump
Cheers!
Rob Moline
Little Apple Brewing Company
Manhattan, Kansas
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about
beer!"
------------------------------
From: Rob Moline <brewer@kansas.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 00:00:01 -0500
Subject: Te*t
This is a te*t message.
Cheers!
Rob Moline
Little Apple Brewing Company
Manhattan, Kansas
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about
beer!"
------------------------------
From: TPuskar@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 07:11:01 -0500
Subject: Grolsch bottles
During a recent visit to my local recycling, I came across about 30 Grolsch
bottles that someone had left. I quickly snatched them up and put them
through my rigid cleaning process (hot ammonia cleaner, extensive hot water
rinse followed by soak in bleach water and rinse. I use this procedure when
I scavenge champaigne and other recycled bottles. Works well for me!) My
question regarding the Grolsch bottles concerns the gasket/washers. They all
look clean and intact but I was wondering from a practical point of view how
long they last.
Do those of you out there using Grolsch or similar bottles change these
gaskets every use or just when they show signe of wear?
If the latter, about how many cleanings (hot water followed by bleach and
rinse) will they generally survive?
Any recommendations for replacement sources? I'm sure some of my mail order
catalogs have them. I'll have to check.
Any other comments based upon experiences with these things would be
appreciated.
Tom Puskar
------------------------------
From: braue@ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 09:23:06
Subject: Use of Primitive Metric System -- NOT!
Graham Stone <gstone@dtuk.demon.co.uk> writes in HBD #2248:
>I would like to raise the community's awareness of the fact that this forum
>is being read but brewers all over the world. Ought we not acknowledge the
>fact the besides the USA and UK not too many other countries use units like
>quarts, gallons, pounds and degrees F (any even then USA and UK can't agree
>on how much a gallons is!). Is it not time for us to start converting our
>recipes and equipment designs to Kilograms, Litres, Metres and degrees C?
<facetious mode ON>
We here in the States have no intent of *ever* converting. The
cleverly designed English system of measurements is a
binary/hexadecimal system (16 oz. to the pound/cup, 2 cups to the
pint, etc.), eminently well-suited to computer processing. This
unlike the primitive, decimal, count-on-your-fingers metric
system. We're ahead of the curve!
<facetious mode OFF>
- --
John W. Braue, III braue@ratsnest.win.net
jbraue9522@aol.com
I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work
miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified.
------------------------------
From: braue@ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 09:29:46
Subject: Bass != IPA
A while back (scratched the exact references -- sorry!) there was
some dicussion of true-to-type and non-true-to-type beers, and
several made the comment that Bass was a poor example of an IPA.
Having made one of my periodic treks to the package store ("liquor
store" to those of you not resident in Connecticut), I happened to
glance at a bottle of Bass. The label described it as a "Pale Ale";
the word "India" and the TLA "IPA" appeared nowhere on the label.
Possibly the re-designed labels haven't made it to the backwater of
Connecticut yet. Possibly we're ahead of the curve, and the
re-re-designed labels have gotten here first. Possibly there's a
different label on a purportedly different brew sold elsewhere.
But, as best as I can determine (not limited to the datum
mentioned above), Bass has ~always~ been sold as "Pale Ale", not
"IPA", in these parts.
- --
John W. Braue, III braue@ratsnest.win.net
jbraue9522@aol.com
I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work
miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified.
------------------------------
From: ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT <skotrat@wwa.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 08:09:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Constructive criticism
SNIP... CUT....
Jim Wrote:
>I concur completely with Georges comments a few
>issues back at how much more rewarding it used to be to participate
>in this forum. Ever wonder why folks like myself are so silent
>these days? Its exactly due to thoughtful posts such as Dereks
>that encourage me to share my time here. ;-(
>
>Jim Busch
Here my two cents and a response to the BT bash. You can't find everything
you want in one book, one class, one paper, one homebrew store, one recipe,
one style, one web site, or one HBD.... etc. That's the joy of it. To say
that BT is a worthless rag is all screwed up. I subscribe to many brewing
mags and buy many brewing books. I learn something from each piece of
brewing literature out there no matter how good or bad.
I hope to never stop learning about the brewing sciences and people like Jim
Busch, Norm Pyle, Al Korozonas, Allen Moen, Dave Miller, Charlie Papazian
(yes even Charlie) and god knows who else have contributed to making me a
better brewer. I don't personally care for BYO (Brew Your Own) Magazine but
I won't dismiss it as a learning tool and have found things in there that
made sense.
The minute that anyone of us stops looking for a way to learn more about
brewing we cease to be informed and I don't care if you brew from kits with
a "Beer Machine" or you are doing all-grain in 55 gallon drums, it's all
about brewing the best you choose to brew. I took a look at about the last
two years of BT and it seems to me that they are going out of their way in
the last year to include more for the beginniing and extract brewer. I say
LOOK HARDER!
Even the HBD with all it's fodder still has some real precious nuggets of
information for a brewer on any level.
If you bash a periodical that's your decision but don't write them off as
being useless because alot of great brewers are contributing to them and
taking their time to make us all better brewers!
Has anyone one of you that are unhappy with these periodicals ever picked up
a pen and written to them about it? Or even picked up a phone? I bet 99% of
you are just complaining and yet not doing anything about resolving it. I
think it was Jim Busch that asked in a recent post what exactly it is you
want to see in BT...
Well Sparky, THERE'S YOUR CHANCE TO STAND UP AND BE COUNTED! So don't talk,
do. Let him and any other magazine or website or brew store etc. know what
they can do to be a better service to our hobby. I think you will be amazed
at how much any of these people want to help.
STOP BASHING AND START LOOKING HARDER!
everybody can learn from all levels, the pro from the novice, the novice
from the pro etc. I think that is my point.
Later,
- -Scott "KEEP THOSE FLAMES COMING" Abene
################################################################
# ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT #
# Scott Abene <skotrat@wwa.com> #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) #
# OR #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) #
# "Get off your dead ass and brew" #
# "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" #
################################################################
------------------------------
From: TPuskar@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 09:50:07 -0500
Subject: Brewing Techniques
I'm a bit beyond "newbie" but somewhere below "Expert" as a homebrewer. I
want to come to a very strong defense of Brewing Techniques as a resourse for
the homebrewer--not just for the articles they publish but also in the
attitude they have towards their subsribers.
I had heard of their publication somewhere but couldn't find it locally. I
got an Em,ail address and sent them a request for info and a request for a
sample issue. They responded with both Email and snail mail infor and a
requested sample. While reading the sample, I found a reference to an
article (I believe it was on cf chillers) and asked if I could purchase a
copy of the back issue. They replied that the specific issue was no longer
available but they would be happy to send a copy of the article. The did and
also included a few related artciles--all without a solicitation for a
subscription! I was hooked on their service and attitude and subscribed
immediately. I get Zymurgy, Brew Your Own and BT. BT is always on the top
of my desk and I read it cover to cover. BYO follows and I have a stack of
Zymurgy that some day I'll get to.
I don't want to bash any magazine--they all do their best to provide a wide
range of info to an extremely diverse reader audience. No single magazine or
editorial philosophy would satisy everyone. I do, however, want to express
my extremely positive feelings about BT. Ususal disclaimers do apply. No
afilliation etc.
Tom Puskar
------------------------------
From: Michael Azzariti <"efxguy "@interaccess.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 09:59:07 -0500
Subject: Re:Cancell Subscription
Cancell efxguy@interactive. com
------------------------------
From: Timothy J Kniveton <tim+@CMU.EDU>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 11:50:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Porter Temp?
Hi everyone.
My first homebrew (a light ale) was a huge success, so I'm going for
#2. I am trying Sparrow Hawk (dark) porter, from New Joy of
Homebrewing. My question is this:
The brew indicates lager yeast, but I don't have a cold place in my
home to ferment. I put the fermenter in my basement, which averages
about 60 degrees. Do you think this is OK? Since it is getting
colder out, the basement will probably start to get colder. Will this
be really bad for the yeast?
And what happens when you ferment lager yeast at ale temperatures?
Thanks..
tim
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Robert Marshall" <robertjm@hooked.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 09:48:59 +0000
Subject: Is there a digest janitor in the house??
Since there's no msg on who to write to for administration issues I'm
forced to post this here.
Just what the heck is with all these empty postings that we've got
recently??
We wouldn't be having to read two or three digests a day if these
were weeded out.
Later,
Robert Marshall
robertjm@hooked.net
homepage: http://www.hooked.net/users/robertjm
- ----------------------------------------------
"In Belgium, the magistrate has the dignity
of a prince, but by Bacchus, it is true
that the brewer is king."
Emile Verhaeren (1855-1916)
Flemish writer
- ------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Rex Clingan <kdash1@mail.idt.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 10:18:03 -0800
Subject: SUBMISSIONS
re kraeusening:
one difference doing the k-thing should in prinicple make to the beer is
in malt aroma. fewer of the aroma constituents of the gyle will be
blown off from that added as kraeusen, for lack of vigorous fermentation
at that stage in the process. if making a bock/fest/vienna, and
wondering why you can't seem to get that malty nose of your favorite
commercial version, this could be why.
it is somewhat analogous to the late addition of hops (dry hopping) for a
big hop nose, late addition of honey for a big honey nose, late addition
of fruit for a big fruit nose, and the megaswill practice of late
addition of water for a big water nose.
rex clingan
beer theorist and chemical engineer
------------------------------
From: James Murphy <murphy@gordy.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 11:50:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: teat dip question
Hi all,
I have a question about the use of teat dip for sanitizing.
I know it has been discussed before, so I've checked previous
threads on this. It appears that I should avoid any teat dip
with lanolin or phosphoric acid. The teat dip at our local farm
supply store does not appear to contain these, but it does list
glycerine (10%) as one of the inert ingredients. At $10/gallon,
this stuff sure seems better than paying $4/4 oz for iodophor, but
not if there are any health risks or if it's gonna mess up my beer...
The label says this stuff contains:
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS 9.1%
Alpha-(p-nonylphenyl)-omega-hydroxypoly(oxyethylene) -
iodine complex (providing 1.0% titratable iodine,
equivalent to 10,000 ppm titratable iodine)
INERT INGREDIENTS 90.9%
Glycerine 10.0%
minimum pH 4
Any thoughts on whether this is ok to use? Also, since this
stuff contains 1.0% titratable iodine (vs. 1.6% for the BTF
iodophor), should I use 1.6 times more teat dip to get the same
concentrations?
Thanks...
Jim Murphy -- Davis, CA
jjmurphy@ucdavis.edu
------------------------------
From: Robert McMahon <rmcmahon@sctcorp.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 17:35:50 -0500
Subject: Did you forget why you started?
> Sorry, Dave, your opinion means nil to me and although you have
> posted many correct concepts, by my count, 1 out of 5 "facts" you
> post are incorrect or misleading, so I urge everyone to be as skeptical
> of Dave's posts as I am.
>
> Dave's misguided concern about blowoff tubes...
>
> Sorry to burst your bubble, Dave... since I've switched to filtered
> air and oxygen... blah, blah, blah
Do you realize how pompous you've become? We are talking about
brewing beer here, not the morality of abortion. I can't imagine what
would prompt your diatribe, except that possibly your entire
self-worth is driven by your quest for the perfect 5 gallons. I used
to get annoyed with "Relax. Don't worry. Have a homebrew.", but I
now realize why it was Papazian's mantra.
Bob McMahon
------------------------------
From: Kraig Krist <kkrist@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 19:11:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Porter Temp?
Homebrew Digest REQUEST Address Only wrote:
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> My first homebrew (a light ale) was a huge success, so I'm going for
> #2. I am trying Sparrow Hawk (dark) porter, from New Joy of
> Homebrewing. My question is this:
>
> The brew indicates lager yeast, but I don't have a cold place in my
> home to ferment. I put the fermenter in my basement, which averages
> about 60 degrees. Do you think this is OK? Since it is getting
> colder out, the basement will probably start to get colder. Will this
> be really bad for the yeast?
>
> And what happens when you ferment lager yeast at ale temperatures?
>
> Thanks..
>
> tim
>
> ------------------------------
No good. You'll get bad flavors and off tastes using ale yeast at lager
temps.
Remember it's important to 1. use the correct yeast and 2. keep
fermentation temps steady.
If the temp will stay 60 degrees or above try Scottish liquid Wyeast.
------------------------------
From: gscott@io.org (Geoff Scott)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 21:14:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Molasses Beer
Ken wanted to know what to do with 25 kg of molasses. O.K. - it's not
exactly a recipe but here are some molasses recommendations from a 1759 law
in my province:
Spruce beer is to be brewed for the health and
conveniency of the troops which will be served
at prime cost. Five quarts of molasses will be put
into every barrel.
Molasses, like peat smoked malt is easy to overdo. Sometimes, I even
have a hard time with the excessive molasses taste of an ale with too much
brown sugar (North American refined sucrose with molasses added) I don't
think I could have stomached the five pints a day allowed by legislation
for the above beer.
I'd say stick well below 5 quarts per barrel ( what's that, about 3/4 of
a liter for a 5 U.S. gallon batch? ) It takes less than 100g to lend a bit
of complexity to the average dark ale if you're talking about a 5 U.S.
gallon batch.
regards,
Geoff Scott
gscott@io.org
Brewing page http://www.io.org/~gscott
------------------------------
From: Mark Warrington <76322.2102@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 27 Oct 96 21:48:06 EST
Subject: Subject: [none]
Hey, what's up with all these:
Subject:
[none]
listings????
Mark Warrington
Tri-State Brewers The "Ren" of Homebrewing
http://alpha.rollanet.org/~tristate/welcome.html
(I just updated our pages...check them out and comment!)
------------------------------
From: dan morley <morleyd@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 21:01:33 -0700
Subject: Results of Counter Flow Wort Chiller Tests
>I have been following the discussion regarding flow input on counter flow
>chillers with much interest.
>
>Both sides seem to have valid points.
>
>I happen to be planning 2 batches on Saturday and I think that I will do
>a little experiment and post the results.
>
>1 batch will be with cold going in on the top and the other will be with
>the cold going in on the bottom. I will strive to keep all other variables
>the same.
>
>
>Dan Morley
>Brewing in the Great White North
>
>
>
Here are the results from cooling my wort with 1) the cold water entering
the top coil first and 2) the cold water entering the bottom coil first.
A few details first:
- -My wort chiller is 25 ft 3/8" copper coil
- -The coils are spaced about 1" apart
- -Volume of both worts at time of cooling was 24 liters
- -My water supply temp was 44 deg. F
- -The cold water supply was turned on full for the duration of both coolings.
(this was the only way to keep the flow rate constant)
- -No other water in the house was running.
- -The lid was on during cooling. (except where chiller input/output is)
- -I used 2 floating thermometers. The temperatures were taken from where the
tip of thermometers rest. (This was approximately in the middle of the wort)
- -I used the stop watch on my wrist watch for the timing.
TOP BOTTOM
Batch 1 Batch 2
Time Temp. Temp.
0:00 206 206 (no stirring)
5:00 138 138 (no stirring)
10:00 100 102 (no stirring)
15:00 88 84 (no stirring)
15:00-15:30 stirred
18:00 84 84
20:00 80 80
20:00-20:30 srirred
23:00 74 74
23:00-23:30 stirred
26:00 68 68
26:00-26:30 stirred
28:00 64 64
Conclusion: This is the normal way that I cool my wort. I do not stir for
the first 15 minutes, then I stir every few minutes. Using this method it
doesn't seem to make any difference on where the cold water flows into the
wort chiller. I would appear that with no stirring at all, that the cold
water entering on the bottom would have a slight advantage, (as indicated
after 15 minutes) I have no idea how a slower flow rate (ie: less water
usage) might effect these findings.
These are just my findings, in my home brewery, under my own test conditions.
Dan Morley
morleyd@cadvision.com
Brewing in the Great White North (Calgary, AB. Canada)
------------------------------
From: "MASSIMO FARAGGI" <maxfarag@hotmail.com>
Date: 28 Oct 1996 12:10:53 -0000
Subject: bitterness perception / !!??!
Hello HBD!
KennyEddy says:
>there is a non-linear relationship between IBU's and bitterness >sensation;
the difference between 20 and 30 IBU is seemingly much >greater than between 30
and 40 IBU.
I think that also in this matter you should apply the (WEBER-)FECHNER Law:
Perception=log(stimulus)
That is, what you feel as an equal "step" between your perceptions (e.g.,
bitterness, frequency or intensity of a sound, etc.) is really an equal
"ratio"; you perceive the same difference between 12 and 24 IBU and between 24
and 48 etc. (as in music, there is an octave between 20 and 40 Hz and the same
between 8000 and 16000)
- -----
!!??! I could not get the last 7 issues of HBD (I read the HTMLized version
anyway) and receveid no other emails since the one from Bob Wolff on 23-Nov
(thanks, "Vito"), so I don't know if it's the fault of my free-mail service or
of the HBD.
Sorry if I waste bandwith for this, but this message is also to warn anyone who
mailed me recently that I could have missed their mail (and also to check if I
get at least the confirmation message to this post).
Cheers,
Massimo Faraggi GENOVA - ITALY
maxfarag@hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 08:33:05 cst
Subject: re: Mashing specialty grains/Munich malt
Good morning all,
Ian Smith asks when to put the specialty grains into the mash.
Put all the grains into the mash at the beginning of the mash. The
specialty grains all have unconverted starch that needs to be mashed to
convert.
Munich malt will convert itself and a small percentage of crystal or
adjunct. I would guess about 5% but that is only a guess.
I have make a number of dunkels with the base malt of Durst Munich and
the yield has always been about 31pppg
Bill
Richmond, Maine
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2251
****************************
