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HOMEBREW Digest #2258
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/11/01 PST
Homebrew Digest Friday, 1 November 1996 Number 2258
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
HBD ((Bill Giffin))
RE: Dreaded DMS ((Bill Giffin))
Why Lager's ? (Anton Schoenbacher)
More counter (flow) arguments (Wade Hutchison)
hot mash ... (John Wilkinson)
Keg sediment (Mike Donald)
re:Sparge Necessary? (Charles Burns)
Chillers, 2-tier systems, etc. ("Tom Kelly")
Re: Ouch! How bad is it? (RUSt1d?)
Atlanta brewpubs (<egross@emory.edu>)
Re: Ouch! How bad is it? (David Hammond)
Primary Dry Hopping (Nathan Moore)
Thermometer Expert products... anyone tried them? (Dave Riedel)
Zima Type brew (chris)
Wild Goose (chris)
[none] ()
[none] ()
immersion chiller construction question (William D Gladden )
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
Temp diff in chillers: co- vs. counter-flow ((David C. Harsh))
[none] ()
[none] ()
What Comes Around ("David Kennedy")
XMAS BREW (<ROTH.TER@SEATTLE.VA.GOV>)
Re: Keg sediment ("William E. Steimle")
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
Re: zima wife ((Wouter de Waal))
re: Dreaded DMS ((Bill Giffin))
Altenmunoter Brauer Bier (Steven Ketcham)
Recipe for a German Wheat Double Bock ("Kevin M. McAnulty, PE")
Re: Ouch! How bad is it? (David Hammond)
Re: Chiller sanitation ((Jay Reeves))
HBD #2253 not MIA (D1FKV0W@BATLAN.BELL-ATL.COM)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:57:01 cst
Subject: HBD
Those blank messages are messages that were sent to HBD AND IT DELETED
THEM
Once is a mistake to be corrected. twice is a mistake that the fix didn't
work and you need a new fix. Three times and it is time to replace the
defective item that defective item in this case is the AOB who is in
charge of the HBD.
Have a great day and a better BEER.
Bill
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:59:05 cst
Subject: RE: Dreaded DMS
Good evening,
>>Larry Johnson commented:
- - you want to drive off the dreaded DMS (or one of its precursors,
rather) that can make your beer taste like creamed corn.
<<
Hold on there Larry DMS isn't dreaded it is wonderful stuff. Without DMS
lagers will taste insipid. If a beer doesn't have DMS chances are it
isn't a beer. I grant you that too much isn't grand, sort of like having
too much salt or pepper to season a dish.
I wish the digest came in the morning and once a day as it did before it
moved.
Bill
Richmond, Maine
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 10:27:06 PST
Subject: Why Lager's ?
Why four they make lagers and not Ales at A-B ?
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
------------------------------
From: Wade Hutchison <whutchis@bucknell.edu>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 13:25:10 -0500
Subject: More counter (flow) arguments
>
>From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
>Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:05:28 -0500
>Subject: Re: Killer Chiller Question
>
>Mike Donald <mpd@plaza.ds.adp.com> writes:
>> Correct - a counterflow heat exchanger has the hot fluid inlet and the cold
>> fluid outlet at the same end. This produces the largest _average_
>> difference in temperature over the length of the chiller.
>
>You know, I don't think I can agree with this statement. Let's take a
>hypothetical situation:
>
I'm sorry, but it's true whether you agree with it or not.
>Assumptions:
> 1. Flow rates of water and wort are identical (in volume-per-time)
> 2. Heat capacities of water and wort are identical (close enough)
> 3. The system is perfectly insulated.
>
>Supposition:
> 4. Flow rate is adjusted so that exiting wort temperature is
> 10deg above the entering water temperature.
Ay, and here's the rub. If you make this assumption, then you will
of couse get the same log-mean delta-T no matter how you run the
water or wort.
<nice analysis deleted>
>8. The average temperature difference is then
> Integral(0,L)[(T(x) - A) dx] / L =
> [5 - (T0 - A)] / ln(5/(T0-A)
> Note that this quantity is independent of the length of the chiller.
For the assumptions you made, yes, since you fixed all of the temps
>
> With some reasonable assumptions
> T0 = 100
> A = (100 + 20) / 2 = 60
> the average temperature difference is 16.8.
Ok, go back, and calculate the area needed to achieve the cooling you
specified at some fixed flow rate of the water and wort. You'll find
that for a counter-flow design, the area will be less by about 7 to
10% less than for a co-current flow design. Or, from the more realistic
approach, if I have a chiller of a certain size, I can use up to 10% less
water and get the same cooling if I use a counter-flow chiller.
-----wade
whutchis@bucknell.edu
------------------------------
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:31:02 -0600
Subject: hot mash ...
Regarding mash and strike water temps Barry Vanhoff said:
>I might even go a little lower than 170F (shooting for 150F) but I'm not sure.
>I think I'll aim low and add hot water later if necessary.
I have found it easier to cool the mash adding tap water than to raise the
temp with boiling. I always end up with too thin a mash when trying to go up.
For instance, Mash T of 165F - Tap T of 70F = dT of 95F but
Boiling T of 212F - Mash T of 145F = 67F. I usually use a strike temp of ~175F
and add until the mash is well soaked but thick then check the temp. I then
adjust to the desired temp and mash thickness. A short time above temp doesn't
seem to hurt. I don't worry about the number of oz./lb. I am adding. I never
seemed to get it all right trying to measure the strike water. I aim for
the mash thickness I want at the temp I want. Of course, I heat the maximum
amount of water I think I will need.
John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkinson@imtn.dsccc.com
------------------------------
From: Mike Donald <mpd@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 09:09:14 PST
Subject: Keg sediment
- ------- Forwarded Message
From: Russ Kruska <R.KRUSKA@CGNET.COM>
To: bacchus <bacchus@aob.org>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 08:32:00 -0800
Subject: Keg sediment
HELP !! I have a fully-carbonated cornelius keg full of amber
ale that needs to be transported to another location for a friend's
40th birthday party. I am worried about stirring up the sediment
from the bottom of the keg.
I am unable to filter the beer (no filter) or rack it off the sediment
(since it's
already carbonated). I have read about counterpressure transfer
from keg to keg, but have no way to monitor the receiving keg
pressure so I am afraid to try that technique. Any suggestions out
there ?? Could I release the pressure in the keg, xfer it under pressure
and then recarbonate with CO2 ??
- ------- End of Forwarded Message
------------------------------
From: Charles Burns <cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 10:45:01 -0800
Subject: re:Sparge Necessary?
David Hill (in hbd2256) asks if the sparge is really necessary,
especially when using a high water/grist ratio.
Good question and I think someone posted earlier that they were
experimenting with the no-sparge technique - where's the report?
Probably one of those [none] subject posts.
In any case, your question about "how much sugar is still left" after
draining the grain bed is a good one. I propose that we do a really
simple experiment. Next batch, drain the mashtun, separate the runnings
from the non-sparged grains from the sparged grains. Boil them
separately. Test the SG of the sparged runnings. Report what the points
per gallon "waste" was. We could all then make an informed decision, and
on a 5 or 10 gallon batch I can tell you right now that I'd drop the
sparge in a minute if it was < 2 points.
But - are there other benefits to sparging?
Charley
------------------------------
From: "Tom Kelly" <tkelly@hologic.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 14:05:38 EST
Subject: Chillers, 2-tier systems, etc.
Fellow Brewers:
In #2256 Al K. writes that the water inlet position on immersion
chillers doesn't matter as long as the wort is stirred. I agree. You
must circulate the wort to break the boundary layer between the coil
and the liquid. Otherwise, efficiency of heat transfer drops
enormously, especially below 100F.
The Holder's asked about cleaning counterflow chillers. I use a
counterflow heat exchanger (Heart's Super Chiller) which works
extremely well. Chills 12 gallons to 75F in 15 minutes (4-fold faster
than 35 feet of 3/8 copper tubing immersed). I sanitize by flushing
with water immediately, then flushing with iodophor, and storing with
iodophor. I suppose I'll have to run some TSP or equiv. through
someday. Another advantage of counterflow--you can add the yeast as
soon as chilling has commenced, since the wort exiting the chiller is
at pitching temp. Enough on chillers.
David Hill asked about a two-tier system. I brew in my basement (2nd
second all-grain batch now fermenting). Low headroom ruled out a
sparge water vessel. I bought a 4-gal point-of-use water heater at
Home Depot (1500 Watts/120F-170F/$135.00). The trick here is to
supply the point-of-use heater with 140F water from your hot water
heater. Otherwise, the point-of-use heater won't have enough BTU's to
take the water to 170F @ 10-15 gallons/hr (sparge rate). I insulated
all pipes and the point-of-use heater supplies 160F water to my sparge
ring indefinitely at this rate. (There is approx. 10F drop in pipes
and ring, however).
Question. Is 160F hot enough? I'd be happier with 170F. I ordered a
couple of thermostats that should take the temp in the 4 gal. tank up
10-15F. I've run the numbers on the BTU's necessary to take 140F
water to 175F at the specified flow rate. (1500 watts is enough).
I've been reading the digest for several months and figured it was
about time to chime in.
Tom K.
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:30:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Ouch! How bad is it?
>In my ignorance, I have dry hopped into my primary fermenter.
>I've since discovered that this was a *bad* thing to do (Charlie
>P. says to absolutely avoid doing this).
>
>So, is it worth saving? It doesn't smell all that great, but
>it is still undergoing rather active fermentation. I've got
>half a mind to dump it and use the carboy to ferment a stout
>recipe I've got waiting in the wings.
Dumping this batch is the only *bad* thing you could do. The
only reason CP says not to dry hop in the primary is because
the aroma contributed by the hops will be outgassed with the
CO2 during fermentation. Use the other half of your mind and
taste it first. You could always add more dry hops if you are
unhappy with the aroma/flavor.
John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady/index.html
Boneyard Brewing Co. "The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program"
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow."
------------------------------
From: <egross@emory.edu>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:34:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Atlanta brewpubs
For your information, all brewpubs in Atlanta are not in Buckhead, which
really is the bastion of meatmarket yuppiedom as opposed to great
beer.Excellent beers are brewed
by Keith Legget at the US Border Cantina in Roswell(I think, anyway, it's
north of the perimeter). There is another John Harvards out there as well,
and the superbly located Mill with brewmaster John Stuart, formerly of
Winterpark, is located on Piedmont Park in Midtown.C. Burns missed great
beer at the Phoenix, definitely the best of all the brewpubs he visited,
though it is not an environment conducive to heavy duty partying.More
Atlanta brewpubs are on the way. Lee
------------------------------
From: David Hammond <hammer@nexen.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:39:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Ouch! How bad is it?
>
> Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:30:33 -0500 (EST)
> From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
> Subject: Re: Ouch! How bad is it?
>
> Dumping this batch is the only *bad* thing you could do. The
> only reason CP says not to dry hop in the primary is because
> the aroma contributed by the hops will be outgassed with the
> CO2 during fermentation.
>
Well, there's more to it than that, I thought. He expressed some
concern about bacterial contamination. If I remember right, the
alcohol produced by the primary fermentation keeps the microbes
knocked down in the secondary. If you dry hop the primary, then
the microbes have a chance to interact with the sugar before the
yeast does.
I have not experienced a contaminated brew yet, so I don't know
whether the smell I detect coming out of the fermentation lock
is that unusual (This is my 5th brew). It's strong, and I think
a little wierd, but my wife says it smells like molasses (no
molasses in the recipe).
I dry hopped with pellets, not plugs or flowers, if that means
anything.
>
> You could always add more dry hops if you are unhappy with the
> aroma/flavor.
>
Hmmm...now there's an idea.
Dave
------------------------------
From: Nathan Moore <moorent@bechtel.Colorado.EDU>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:52:34 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Primary Dry Hopping
David Hammond asked about dry hopping into the primary.
Relax, you should be fine. I did this several batches back
without thinking and it turned out fine. You lose a lot of the aroma from
scrubbing by the CO2 but you should still be able to notice the dry
hopping. There is a very slight risk of infection because you placed the
hops into the carboy before most of the sugar was converted but as long
as you used clean hops, most of them are, you should be fine. I
definitely wouldn't dump the beer. My philosophy is to always stick it
out. Who knows if it did get infected somehow you could have an
interesting David's Dry Hop P-Lambic.
Nathan Moore
Denver, CO
------------------------------
From: Dave Riedel <RIEDEL@ios.bc.ca>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:08:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Thermometer Expert products... anyone tried them?
It seems my previous post was eaten by the (None) virus....
A few months ago, someone mentioned the thermometers carried by
Thermometer Expert in Portland. They offer a 'meat' thermometer
for ($18 + $3 handling)US which has a digital 32-248F (0-120C)
range, a 4' probe, an alarm for pre-set temperature and a timer.
I think that the alarm might be very handy as a warning of overly hot
sparge water and as a 'ready-to-pitch' indicator during cooling.
Has anyone tried this product? Is it well worth my $21?
You can check the product out at: http://www.hk.linkage.net/%7Ethermo/
(no affiliation... ack ack)
Dave Riedel, Victoria BC, Canada
------------------------------
From: chris <king1679@superlink.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 15:19:22 -0500
Subject: Zima Type brew
Off hand I do not remember which mag it was in (BT I think) they had the
exact recipe and process to make ZIMA. It was out of the realm of
homebrewing (process and ingredients) but was an interesting read. There
are chemicals for everything... stop foam production, stop color pick
up, etc etc... Everthing that makes it a beer they remove or stop.
Anyway I think the stuff sucks, but why not get your wife to drink a
fruit-wheat beer or I have know plenty of woman to enjoy some of the
Belgium Lambics or Cider.
Chris
------------------------------
From: chris <king1679@superlink.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 15:28:43 -0500
Subject: Wild Goose
They do not produce any unfiltered beers as part of the regular line. They
very rarely produce something special for small accounts which I have never
tasted but remember hearing about. A keg conditioned snow goose if I remember
correctly. But as far as bottles go they are all filtered. The yeast they use
is the same for all of their beers along with all Pugsley Beers, but off hand
I can not remeber which it is. It is now avail. from Wyeast but it is not the
Austrailian (at least I don't think it is).
When I was brewing there they did put aside a few IPA that they did not put
through the filter, but when we went to taste them they were BAD (infection).
Chris King
------------------------------
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From: William D Gladden <W_GLADDEN@Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 15:37:51 -0500
Subject: immersion chiller construction question
During a recent trip to the local home supply superstore, I
noticed what I believe to be copper pipe/tube/whatever ...
already formed into a coil in a box labeled as being made for
hooking up automatic ice cube makers to a freezer. It comes in
3/8 inch and 1/2 inch diameters and up to around 20 or 25 feet in
length. It seemed as though it would bend easily and even snap
pretty easily *if* you bent it back and forth repeatedly. Since
I don't plan to do that to an immersion chiller, I thought it may
be just what I need. Has anyone made an immersion chiller with
this stuff? If so ... any advice? If not ... why not? I think
even I could make one if this stuff will work! Thanks.
ps. Along the lines of the ideal 6 pack thread... If you are
within the distribution range buy a mixed case of Victory Beer.
The one I bought had Festbier, Brandywine Valley Lager, and the
IPA [name slipped my mind]). The inlaws got quite the education
and enjoyed one of each ... as well as some homebrew, before
returning to Molson. The only greater favor you could give
yourself is to stop at the Victory Brewing Co. brewpub/resteraunt
in Downingtown, PA and have it on tap. No affiliation other than
enjoying the increased quality of life from a top notch brewpub
in my hometown.
Bill Gladden: Downingtown, PA
Direct flames to: <W_GLADDEN@Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US>
I'm still trying to discern if ideas are better if they come off
the top of my head or the bottom. Does it matter if I have a hot
head? What is the best way to cool it? :-)
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From: dharsh@alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 16:33:54 -0500
Subject: Temp diff in chillers: co- vs. counter-flow
Warning: long post on heat transfer!
>Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu> writes:
>Mike Donald <mpd@plaza.ds.adp.com> writes:
>> Correct - a counterflow heat exchanger has the hot fluid inlet and the cold
>> fluid outlet at the same end. This produces the largest _average_
>> difference in temperature over the length of the chiller.
>
>You know, I don't think I can agree with this statement. Let's take a
>hypothetical situation:
(For a counter-flow chiller:)
>9. The "average" temperature difference is 10 deg.
(For a parallel flow chiller:)...
> the average temperature difference is 16.8.
(I get 33.7 in my calculations)
My problem is the ultimate performance of the exchangers Spencer describes:
Counter-current: ********************
Wort In = 100 C * Heat * Wort Out = 30 C
Cooling Water Out = 90 C * Exchanger * Cooling Water In = 20 C
********************
Co-current: ********************
Wort In = 100 C * Heat * Wort Out = 65 C
Cooling Water In = 20 C * Exchanger * Cooling Water Out = 55 C
********************
Notice that the co-current exchanger did not exchange as much heat, - only
a 35 C temp change was seen as opposed to 70 C! As a result, we can't
compare the temperature driving forces for these two exchangers - no matter
how large the co-current exchanger is, we can't get lower the wort
temperature past the average inlet temperature of 60 C.
Let's now consider the temperature limits given in the co-current case
above in a counter-current exchanger so the total heat transfer is the
same:
Counter-current (#2): ********************
Wort In = 100 C * Heat * Wort Out = 65 C
Cooling Water Out = 55 C * Exchanger * Cooling Water In = 20 C
********************
The average temperature difference in this case is 45 C.
So the counter-current #2 exchanger requires less total exchanger area than
the co-current exchanger with the same inlet and outlet temperatures. The
decrease is directly proportional to the mean temperature differences.
>The reason a CF chiller can be more efficient than an immersion or
>other chiller is because it maximizes the temperature difference
>between the *entering* coolant and the *entering* wort...
No. The amount of heat transfer at any given point in an exchanger is
dependent on the *local* temperature difference. Thus, the total heat
transfer is based on the *average* temperature driving force. Counter-flow
heat exchangers will always transfer more heat in the same area at the same
flow rates than co-current exchangers for this reason.
If you want more information, check out J.P. Holman's Heat Transfer,
published by McGraw-Hill. Chapter 10 section 5 covers the use of average
temperature driving forces in heat exchangers. I've taught Heat Transfer
several times and teach a lab that covers Transport Phenomena, so this is
actually an area that I feel I can claim competence in.
Dave
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
& Dave Harsh &
& DNRC Minister of Bloatarianism O- &
& "non illegitimi carborundum" &
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
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From: "David Kennedy" <HW1.DKENNED2@HW1.CAHWNET.GOV>
Date: 31 Oct 1996 14:39:14 PST
Subject: What Comes Around
"Ah yes, the good ol'days. While the phrase seems a bit trite, it is
basically true. The reason that they were good is the signal-to-noise
ratio (another overused phrase) was very high. The main reason for that
is that the digest was full of questions and answers-good questions and
good answers--and not so much speculation and flamage. It was not a
bore, it was a joy to read--a real learning resource. There were not
many who just spewed speculation and guesses in order to feel important.
It was not that people weren't thinking for themselves; there were those
who questioned the established routines. And there were usually
constructive replies--or at least good debates (full of information) with
very little name calling. The tension was very low. It seems that these
days, there are those who are just waiting to pounce. (At least we
haven't reverted to spelling flames)."
This was submitted to Digest 952 in August of 1992. Sounds very similar
to the current debate. Get a grip folks, the digest will improve, in fact
2257 had some very good posts. To those signing off, why the need for
a grand exit posting, just unsubscribe. Chances are you will be back,
since you will not find another group of people who enjoy discussing
beer at this level. Things have not changed as much as you may think.
Dave Kennedy
Sacramento, CA
Its a fine line between clever and stupid.
-Spinal Tap
------------------------------
From: <ROTH.TER@SEATTLE.VA.GOV>
Date: 31 Oct 96 14:23 PDT
Subject: XMAS BREW
Wow---this is a very potent brew!!!! I would use only 2 or 3 cloves for
5 gals, and about 1-2 oz of sliced ginger.
I think you can do a little experiment to see what this will taste
like.
Boil the listed ingredients in one quart of water, with the lid on to
prevent evaporation. A simmer is best. After 45 minutes, pour a can of
Coors or Miller----a relatively tasteless beer. Add your "soup" a half
teaspooon at a time, and see how it tastes. Then you can scale up to 5
gallons. (ie, if one teaspoon has the taste you like, multiply by 20,
or the ratio of 1 qt/5 gallons. Then add 20 teaspoons to 5 gals of wort in
primary.)
This method will also allow you to evalute the 'soup' for balance--too
much clove, or ginger? Make a new 'spice soup' with adjusted amount of
that spice and repeat the experiment.
Be careful though---you might start to like spiked Coors !!!
------------------------------
From: "William E. Steimle" <steimlew@holmes.uchastings.edu>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:54:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Keg sediment
If you force carbonate and there is only a little sediment, I would
suggest drinking a few pints of it yourself before moving it. I do this
with my own kegs and by about the fifth glass, the beer is crystal clear,
assuming you have given the sediment enough time to fall to the bottom.
If, on the other hand, you naturally carbonated the kegs, I have no
idea.
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From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:17:44 +0200
Subject: Re: zima wife
The Prince of Dark Beers, Satan himself, he of the psycho chicken, sez:
>likes the dark, chewy, powerful stuff I make. Now that I think about it,
>she's the only chick I know who prefers dark beers to light ones. As an
Well, there's another one... My wife never drank beer until she found some
Hansa (Namibia) Urbock. Nice and chewy, but I like 'em more bitter. So now
you know about two womyn ('chick' is _so_ !PC) who like dark beer. :-)
ObHomebrew: I thought that malt extact and DME were equivalent, just adjust
the weight by 80% to compensate for the water in the extract. But I see that
the Christmas Ale recipe calls for Munton&Fison extract and DME. What gives?
Why not just more of either one?
Wouter
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 08:56:42 cst
Subject: re: Dreaded DMS
Good evening,
>>Larry Johnson commented:
- - you want to drive off the dreaded DMS (or one of its precursors,
rather) that can make your beer taste like creamed corn.
<<
Hold on there Larry DMS isn't dreaded it is wonderful stuff. Without DMS
lagers will taste insipid. If a beer doesn't have DMS chances are it
isn't a beer. I grant you that too much isn't grand, sort of like having
too much salt or pepper to season a dish.
I wish the digest came in the morning and once a day as it did before it
moved.
Bill
Richmond, Maine
P. S. This is the fourth time I have sent this post. Maybe the idea of
censorship is not so far fetched.
------------------------------
From: Steven Ketcham <ketcham@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 05:32:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Altenmunoter Brauer Bier
Hello!
My brother-in-law has given me a request for a beer in the style of
"Altenmunoter Brauer Bier" listed on the bottle as a premium Bavaian beer.
It is brewed and bottled by Privatbrauerei Franz Joseph Sailer,
Marktoberdorf, Germany.
I am not looking for a clone just style notes. I assume it is an Alt beer...?
Thanks.
------------------------------
From: "Kevin M. McAnulty, PE" <mrbridge@webspan.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 08:46:32 -0800
Subject: Recipe for a German Wheat Double Bock
Has anyone out there had the pleasure of trying an Imported beer by
Schneider & Sohn called AVENTINUS. Its' a German Wheat Double Bock Ale
that tastes a little like CHIMAY Grand Reserve (to me at least). I loved
it so much that I would like to make something similar to it. I'm not an
experienced brewer (5 or 6 successful batches so far), so, if anyone
knows of a similar recipe please make it as simple as possible. The
label says it has Chocolate, fruit & spices with a clove like finish.
Thanks..
Kevin
------------------------------
From: David Hammond <hammer@nexen.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 09:46:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Ouch! How bad is it?
Dave Hammond wrote:
>In my ignorance, I have dry hopped into my primary fermenter.
>I've since discovered that this was a *bad* thing to do (Charlie
>P. says to absolutely avoid doing this).
>
>So, is it worth saving? It doesn't smell all that great, but
>it is still undergoing rather active fermentation. I've got
>half a mind to dump it and use the carboy to ferment a stout
>recipe I've got waiting in the wings.
I would like to say many thanks to all who responded to my
post. The *unanimous* consensus is...DON'T DUMP! Therefore,
I won't. I'll stick it out and just rack to a secondary when
the primary is done and rehop again.
Many of you pointed out that the aroma that I am trying to
generate via the dry hopping would be mostly scrubbed out
by the rapid release of the CO2 during primary fermentation.
Many others question why Charlie P. would make a statement
such as avoid dry hopping in the primary. His reasoning (if
I remember correctly) is that when you dry hop into the
secondary, there is less chance of infection due to the
antibiotic effect of the alcohol now present in the wort.
Should you dry hop into the primary prior to active ferm-
entation (which is what I did) you open the door to conta-
mination.
So, I will not worry, I am now much more relaxed, and I have
several bottles of pretty darned good homebrewed stout that
I will enjoy this weekend while I am racking this brew (a PA
that should resemble Shoals Pale Ale for those of you from
New England) into the secondary. I will also be bottling an
ESB that has been in the tank for 2 weeks, and brewing up
another batch of honey-oatmeal stout for the holidays.
This hobby kicks ass! =8^)
Thanks again. Dave
------------------------------
From: jay@ro.com (Jay Reeves)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 09:02:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Chiller sanitation
In HBD2256, Wayne Holder ask:
>To anyone using a counter flow chiller, or anyone that has heard of
>one, what is the recommended method of cleaning/sanitation?
I've heard about folkes that run cleaners and then sanitizers thru
their CFC prior to running the wort thru, but I don't believe all
that work and waste of chemicals is needed.
While the wort is boiling, I put a few gallons of water in the hot
liquor tank and heat to boiling. That water is then run thru the
CFC. When it comes time to chill the wort, connect all of the
lines, start the chilling water, then start the wort flow. After
you have your chilled wort, run more boiling water thru the CFC to
clean it, then drain it. I store mine dry and open. If you clean
it immediately after use this way, there shouldn't be any kind of
buildup or residue left. I've done this with +40 batches and have
not had any infections or off-flavors.
Now my question: does anyone know what "Stout Malt" is? One of
the homerew catalogs I've got says that it's a base malt used for
making Stouts. It's obviously not a specialty grain.
-Jay Reeves
Hunstville, Alabama, USA
------------------------------
From: D1FKV0W@BATLAN.BELL-ATL.COM
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 10:02:07 -0500
Subject: HBD #2253 not MIA
Fellow HBDers,
Since our janitor-in-training has not responded so far, I shall.
Although I have frequent troubles getting the HBD (#2249 never showed
up here), I have attributed them to our firewall, and I was among the
blessed ones who received #2253. FWIW, several (possibly all) the
posters who re-posted articles ended up repeating themselves.
In case anyone does not know, one can order a back or missed issue
from majordomo by sending a message of the following form:
get n2253
end
Include nothing else in the body. Just as a suggestion, one should
probably order a missing issue from majordomo before re-posting
anything that should have been in the missing issue.
Happy Brewing!
Robert A. West
d1fkv0w@batlan.bell-atl.com.
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2258
****************************
