Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #2256
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/31 PST
Homebrew Digest Thursday, 31 October 1996 Number 2256
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
In Defense of the HBD ("Genito, Michael A.")
Re: Wort recirc, Wort boil ("David R. Burley")
Arrrr! Samuel Smith's ("David R. Burley")
zima-type/malty brew (pstungys@osborn.com)
hot mash ... bottled and tasted (Barry Vanhoff)
Fermentap & Polar Ware's Brew Pot <painter@axess.com> ("D & S Painter")
re:Dry Hopping (Charles Burns)
Beer's Law/chillers (korz@xnet.com)
Re: Killer Chiller Question (Spencer W Thomas)
re: subject [none] - somehting is rotten in denmark... (Charles Burns)
See Ya! ("Patrick E. Humphrey")
Samuel WHO? (Suzette Smith)
Enzymes in higher-kilned malts (Russ Brodeur)
Best usage for Molasses ((Ken Haycook))
Mead fermentation and yeast storage (Jorge Blasig - IQ)
Missing 2253????? (SRJ)
Refridgerator Penetration - Door or Wall? (Charles Burns)
Immersion Chiller t*st results (Mike Donald)
Wild Goose (Lee Hiers AA4GA)
[none] ()
[none] ()
Chiller sanitation (The Holders)
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
[none] ()
Re: Goin to Atlanta... ((Charles Burns))
Re: Sparge necessary? ((David Hill))
[none] ()
Madison competition announcement (Robert Paolino)
Longer Ferments With Honey ("Chris Strickland")
Christmas Ale-Brew Now or too late (TheTHP@aol.com)
For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew@aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@aob.org
and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.
Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv@ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner@aob.org.
OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info@aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo@aob.org by e-mail.
COPYRIGHT:
As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Genito, Michael A." <mgenito@ci.rye.ny.us>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:06:39 -0500
Subject: In Defense of the HBD
To all those bashing the HBD these days - lighten up!
Sure, I too am not happy with seeing a lot of NONE (0) postings, and it
would appear a janitor should be there or pay more attention. Likewise,
there are an awful lot of non-homebrew specific topics, perhaps too
many, finding there way into the digest.
But give it all a break, step back and take a fresh look. There are
still many good questions and answers, and it is still a very valuable
resource, especially for the newbie. Any digest is not easy to maintain,
and we should really give the new janitor a chance (is it still Shawn?).
I hope it does get better. But I'm also willing to give it a chance. I
apologize for the bandwidth, but just had to get my $.02 into the fray.
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 30 Oct 96 13:04:30 EST
Subject: Re: Wort recirc, Wort boil
Brewsters:
Jim Thomas asks:
>anybody have any thoughts on recirculation of runnings in the mash
> tun? I've secured a small Grainger solution pump and have wired it
> up with a motor speed controller and have configured my system to
> "automate" the recirculation process. I mash in an insulated cooler
> so I don't have a way to directly add heat (a la RIMS), but I'm
> considering recirculating the mash liquor for a portion of mash,
> say, the last 20 minutes. Any thoughts???
>
Jim, why not pass this recirculated wort through a coil of copper tubing
sitting
in a bucket of hot or boiling water to heat it up. I'm sure it will work best
if you pump it in from the bottom and use a counter- ( or anti-) clockwise
(left hand rule) wrap.
- -----------------------------------
DeNeefe says:
In looking
through various sources though, most suggest adding the extract to the
collected wort and limiting boil to 1 hour. Why not boil the collected
wort for 1/2 hour, THEN add the extract and continue boiling for an
hour? Is there some reason not to do this that I don't see, or is it
just a convenience thing?
The reason for the boil is two-fold 1) to coagulate protein, the majority of
which happens early in the boil and 2) the isomerization of hop alpha acids
which take a long time. Certain of the alpha acids are not soluble in the wort
and require the agitation of a rolling boil to get them dispersed enough to
react with wort components and isomerize. High gravity worts reduce the ability
of hop bittering acids to be extracted, so your plan to add the extract after
the boil with the hops is the better idea since it will improve your extraction
efficiency. Hop acids being polyphenols also react with protein and help in the
flocculation and kettle clarification. I really don't see why it is necessary
to boil the extract more than a few minutes. I would boil for 45 - 60 minutes
with the collected wort and hops and then boil with the extract for 15 minutes.
- ------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 30 Oct 96 13:04:27 EST
Subject: Arrrr! Samuel Smith's
Brewsters:
I just had a Samuel Smith's Pale Ale last week. Whatever possessed me to write
that Samuel Smith's was Samuel Adams of Tadcaster, I'll never know. Thanks for
all the funny corrections by private e-mail.
Arrrrh! matey, I was told that Samuel Smith's be in Tadcaster and that it be in
Yorrrrkshirre as though it was not England. I'll bet the Scots would love that.
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: pstungys@osborn.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 15:18 EST
Subject: zima-type/malty brew
Hello,
Has anyone attempted to brew an all grain malt brew similar to
zima? How was it done and what was the outcome? This could be a way to
convince my wife that advanced home-brewing equipment can benefit her also.
TIA,
Pete
------------------------------
From: Barry Vanhoff <bvanhof@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:26:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: hot mash ... bottled and tasted
Hello HBD,
About 3 weeks ago I was seeking advice on my first all-grain, about
2 weeks ago I brewed it, and about 1 week ago I bottled it.
Observations:
1) my mash was too hot (over 165 F ... my mistake) for too long;
2) fermentation completed EXTREMELY fast (1 day);
3) OG 1.052, FG 1.024;
I cracked a few last night and gave them to a couple friends.
My girlfriend said it was great, "Way better than my last batch"
(extract) but also said, "It must not have any alcohol in it because
I had two and it didn't effect me." (12 oz bottles)
My other friend was a little more critical, but also said it was good.
IMO it tasted like Hale's Ale with a tablespoon of DME stirred in it.
WAY too sweet for me, but the taste was good. The head on this beer
is pretty nice too, thick and creamy.
I am brewing again this week and will probably go with 170F strike-in
at 1qt/lb in an attempt to keep the mash below 155. I might even go
a little lower than 170F (shooting for 150F) but I'm not sure. I
think I'll aim low and add hot water later if necessary. Last time
I aimed high (too high, and killed those little beta amylase enzymes)
and cooled it down later, resulting in low fermentability.
I have one under my belt, so the things that went wrong the first go
around hopefully will not repeat themselves.
Thanks everyone for your help,
Barry Vanhoff
bvanhof@eecs.wsu.edu
------------------------------
From: "D & S Painter" <painter@axess.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 14:34:21 -0500
Subject: Fermentap & Polar Ware's Brew Pot <painter@axess.com>
Dear Brewers,
I have just spent an hour reading and rereading articals in the HBD
archives on the Fermentap. My homebrew store has carried them for a while
... but due to financial constraints I have put my brewing allowance into
other things ... but I am now ready to make the plunge. The problem is that
the jury is hung! Out of all the archives I would say that 1/2 love it 1/2
hate it.
Since most of the discussion took place in march 95 I would like to hear
from long time users and the pros as well as the cons to this aethetically
pleasing piece of Brewart.
Like I've won on the Breeder's Cup or something I wish to blow tons of
money on the Polar Ware Brew Pot (look for it in Zymurgy Special 96 p.7).
Does anyone have any experience with this expencive peice of 18/8 ss. Is
the thermometer acurate? What is the false bottom made of? Can I heat my
Mash on the stove if I plan on sparging in the same vessel (I'm a Gott guy
at pressent ... and only get get friggin 25 pts.). Which reminds me that I
also would like to know from brewers who use a similar 10 gal brew pot
(with spigot/false bottom/ and term.) how's the extraction?
Raise your pint to an Anglo-in-Quebec!
Douglas in Montreal
------------------------------
From: Charles Burns <cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:36:27 -0800
Subject: re:Dry Hopping
Michael Demers asks about dry hopping with PELLETs in hbd2254.
I have dry hopped with whole hops on many occasions. The one time I used
pellets I was never able to clear the beer. It had pellet gunk
throughout the beer in all the bottles. Just a mess and I've never done
it since. Just my 2centsworth.
Charley
------------------------------
From: korz@xnet.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:42:38 -0600
Subject: Beer's Law/chillers
Peter writes:
>If not, perhaps they could
>explain WHY beer does not obey the Beer-Lambert Law. I can think of three
>possible reasons which spectroscopists commonly encounter (but can correct
>for): <snip>
I have a fourth possibile reason, but please consider this *wild speculation*.
If I recall correctly, Ray Daniels found the colour change when diluting beer
(say Salvator) with water to be non-linear, whereas when diluting the
Salvator with a lighter beer (let's say Coors), to be linear.
My wildly speculative reason is: pH. Could pH be what's throwing off
the colour linearity? I know that adding lemon juice to iced tea makes
it get quite a bit more pale... I haven't taken the time to check if the
non-linearity is even in the right direction, but I'm tossing this out
for discussion.
***
I've been trying to stay out of the chiller discussion, but I must point out
a few things:
Wade writes:
>a counterflow heat exchanger has the hot fluid inlet and the cold
>fluid outlet at the same end
This is backwards. For the flows to be *counter* to each other, the hot
flow and cold flow have to be in opposite directions. In the case of
a tube in a hose, that means the hot inlet and cold inlet are at opposite
ends of the tubing/hose.
Look... bottom line and let's let this topic die:
For there to be a difference between running the cold water in from the top
and running it in from the bottom, you have to NOT stir the wort. If you
don't stir the wort, the stagnant wort next to the chiller coil will prevent
efficient cooling and the chilling will take a long time REGARDLESS of
which way the cold water goes into the chiller. If you mix the wort
gently by moving the coil, the temperature difference between the top and
bottom will be so small, that it will be IMMATERIAL which direction the
cold water is traveling. Therefore, run the cold water either way and
gently move the chiller every few minutes.
If anyone wants to discuss this further, I respectfully suggest that you
please take it to private email. Thanks.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
korz.pubs.ih.lucent.com
korz@xnet.com
------------------------------
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:05:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Killer Chiller Question
Mike Donald <mpd@plaza.ds.adp.com> writes:
> Correct - a counterflow heat exchanger has the hot fluid inlet and the cold
> fluid outlet at the same end. This produces the largest _average_
> difference in temperature over the length of the chiller.
You know, I don't think I can agree with this statement. Let's take a
hypothetical situation:
Assumptions:
1. Flow rates of water and wort are identical (in volume-per-time)
2. Heat capacities of water and wort are identical (close enough)
3. The system is perfectly insulated.
Supposition:
4. Flow rate is adjusted so that exiting wort temperature is
10deg above the entering water temperature.
5. The heat extracted from the wort is absorbed by the water (by 3).
6. A parcel of water must therefore warm as much as a similar parcel of
wort cools (by 1, 2 & 5).
7. The exiting water is 10deg below the entering wort temperature ( by
4 & 6).
8. By a reasonable assumption of homogeneity, the water must be 10deg
colder than the wort along the length of the chiller.
9. The "average" temperature difference is therefore
10deg * chiller length / chiller length = 10 deg.
Now, consider a "parallel-flow" chiller, built exactly like the CF
chiller, but in which the wort and the water enter at the same end.
Using the same assumptions, and the supposition:
4. Flow rate is adjusted so that the exiting wort temperature
is 10deg warmer than the exiting water temperature.
5. The heat extracted from the wort is absorbed by the water (by 3).
6. A parcel of water must therefore warm as much as a similar parcel of
wort cools (by 1, 2 & 5).
7. The temperature of the wort satisfies the differential equation
d T(x) / dx = -2 * C * (T(x) - A)
where C is a constant, and A is the average temperature of the wort
& water. A is constant from 6.
Solving the DE gives
T(x) = A + (T0 - A) * exp(-2 * C * x)
Setting T(L) = A+5, where L is the length of the chiller, gives
C = - ln(5 / (T0 - A)) / (2*L)
thus
T(x) = A + (T0 - A) * exp( x * ln(5/(T0-A)) / L )
8. The average temperature difference is then
Integral(0,L)[(T(x) - A) dx] / L =
[5 - (T0 - A)] / ln(5/(T0-A)
Note that this quantity is independent of the length of the chiller.
With some reasonable assumptions
T0 = 100
A = (100 + 20) / 2 = 60
the average temperature difference is 16.8.
The reason a CF chiller can be more efficient than an immersion or
other chiller is because it maximizes the temperature difference
between the *entering* coolant and the *entering* wort. This
difference is constant over the entire chilling period. Thus, each
parcel of coolant absorbs the same amount of heat.
For an immersion chiller, this temperature difference decreases as
chilling progresses, so that later parcels of coolant absorb less heat
than the earlier ones. Therefore you must use more coolant to absorb
the same amount of heat.
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer@umich.edu)
------------------------------
From: Charles Burns <cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:25:08 -0800
Subject: re: subject [none] - somehting is rotten in denmark...
Paul Mansour asks about these messages in hbd 2255.
I think that some of them are mine, but I didn't submit them that way.
For the last couple of weeks, my submissions have not appeared at all,
yet i get the confirmation message anyway. Something is wrong, or the
custodian doesn't like what I've posted;-(.
------------------------------
From: "Patrick E. Humphrey" <HUMPHREY.PATRICK@igate.pprd.abbott.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 14:34:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: See Ya!
Another casualty...
I have been receiving the HBD for nearly 4 years now but the time has
come for that to end. The signal to noise ratio has simply become too
great. Twice daily arrivals of it doesn't help matters either. Is anyone
listening at the digest command post?
It used to be that at least 80% of the posts to the digest pertained to
brewing, either improving techniques or problem solving. I would have to
say that that number has dwindled to half that much. Sure, some of
the information has become redundant over the years and I have solved many
of the problems I encountered as a new brewer. I have learned quite a bit
from the digest, but it has become a waste of time. Someone is always
challenging someone else's post to the point of absurdity. Let it rest or
take it offline. Is it any wonder why some of the well respected,
knowledgeable brewers have terminated their daily receipt of the digest?
The digest was a place where one could have a question answered by some
of those brewers without the current attitudes of others that have recently
dominated it. Those days are gone. I will have to move on to other
sources to improve my knowlege of brewing. The digest isn't fun to read
anymore.
Sorry, I guess I was reminiscing about the good 'ol days.
Good brewing to all of you...
Pat Humphrey
------------------------------
From: Suzette Smith <SSMITH1@drew.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:54:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Samuel WHO?
Date: 30-Oct-1996 03:51pm EDT
From: Smith, Suzette
SSMITH1
Dept: FAC/STAFF
Tel No: (201)-408-3208
TO: Remote Addressee ( _in%HOMEBREW@AOB.ORG )
Subject: Samuel WHO?
Dave,
It's Samuel SMITH (no relation) of Tadcaster England, and Sam Adams of the
USA. Aside from the first names, there is no similarities between these
beers. Samuel Smith has been at it longer and does it better than Sam
Adams can ever hope to brew.
My .02
Suzette
------------------------------
From: Russ Brodeur <r-brodeur@ds.mc.ti.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:05:36 -0500
Subject: Enzymes in higher-kilned malts
In hbd #2129 (I think), Steve Alexander points out the following:
>If you are using highly kilned pale malt,(pale-ale malt) it's nearly
>pointless to perform a sub-60C rest for enzymatic activity - virtually
>all the enzymes most active at such temps are long gone. Hopefully
>it's unnecessary anyway as the maltster has already done this
>degradation adequately for you.
The problem is: what if I'm still getting chill haze with higher-kilned
malts (eg. pale ale & Munich)? Is there nothing that can be done to
reduce the amount of haze-forming proteins in the mash?? Would it be
advisable to include a certain percentage of low-kilned malt, such as
pils, in the grist? And if so; how much is enough?
My questions are primarily slanted towards Vienna-style lager brewing.
I can achieve the color and flavor I personally prefer in this style
using 100% Munich malt in the grist. However, I usually wind up with
chill haze requiring extended cold lagering to settle out. Anyone have
any ideas?? Maybe it's a tannin extraction rather than protein
problem. Is the venerable Corona mill to blame?
BTW, is it true that Ireks Munich malt is actually made by Weyermann's??
TTFN
Russ Brodeur in Franklin, MA
------------------------------
From: khaycook@airmail.net (Ken Haycook)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 15:22:49 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Best usage for Molasses
>From HBD # 2251
> Ken wanted to know what to do with 25 kg of molasses.
Well, first you make a really big pancake and then......
Or for you Mathmatically inclined:
If you use 2 grams of Molasses per stack of Pancakes, a stack= 3, then
# pancakes = ((total molasses)/2 grams per stack)*3
Therefore: Total # pancakes = (25000/2)*3
Total tiny pancakes = 37,500
For the Newbies: get a bunch of Eggo waffles and use as much molassess as
you want. Pretty soon you will be more proficient and technical to go to all
flour, egg, and milk too. So save the aforementioned formula. You just might
need it.
I just had to try to lighten up the HBD.
Ken
It's only a Hobby. A Hobby. A Hobby. A Hobby. A Hobby. A Hobby.
------------------------------
From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb@elmer.fing.edu.uy>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:46:27 -0300 (UY)
Subject: Mead fermentation and yeast storage
Dear friends,
I mailed a similar message a few days ago but it has not been published.
So here I am again.
I prepared a mead almost three weeks ago (it will be three weeks next
saturday). I used 7 kg of honey and 1 kg of strawberies and champagne
lager yeasts in a 30 Lt carboy. It started fermenting almost immediately
and it has been
bubbling since then. Now, bubbling is slower but it has not stopped. I
need to rack before autolysis starts but I do not know whether I should
do it before bubbling stops completely. Yeasts have been in the botton of
the carboy since the beggining but bubbling has been continuous. Do you
believe there might be some kind of problem? do you suggest to rack now
or should I wait until bubbling stops completely? I believe alcohol
content should be around 13 - 14% and fermentation would take longer for
this high level of alcohol. Do you think I am right?
Another question. I need to use the yeasts again. I will take the yeast
slurry and storage it in the refrigerator. Should I use an airlock or
just cap the container? Should I take the slurry from the primary or from
the secondary?
I will appreciate your suggestions and comments. A similar message was
sent some days ago but I believe it was not published.
Jorge Blasig
------------------------------
From: SRJ <Komusubi@together.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 17:03:37 -0500
Subject: Missing 2253?????
Hi All,
First question, Am I the only one missing 2253 or was it a digest wide
glich?
This leads to my second question that was supposed to be posted on 2253.
Blow-offs , pros and cons, any and all info would be greatly
appreciated.
And I am sure I am not the only one to ask but what is up with all the
[none] postings?
Thanks all
Stephen
------------------------------
From: Charles Burns <cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 14:10:08 -0800
Subject: Refridgerator Penetration - Door or Wall?
I've heard (not seen yet) that a lot of homebrewers who keg, end up
putting the keg in a dedicated refer and poke a hole through the door to
install a tap.
This seems like it would be a lot of trouble with opening the door, ie
getting hoses all over the place.
I have a refer which is now dedicated to beer (what a wonderful thing).
My idea is to keep 4 or 5 kegs in there, punch 5 holes in the WALL, one
for C02 and 4 for taps. This way I can have a blonde, a brown, a porter
and stout all available all the time. Right now I've just got a "T" in
the gas line so I can handle 2, but I always have to open the refer
door.
Anyway, question is, is there a problem with going in through the side
of the refer? Are there refrigeration lines hidden in there? And what
kind of drill bit should I get?
Always lookin for the easy way, Charley
When hell freezes over, I'll ski there too.
------------------------------
From: Mike Donald <mpd@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:48:15 PST
Subject: Immersion Chiller t*st results
- ------- Forwarded Message
I just read my post from the Monday HBD (2251) and realized that I stated
"Counter Flow Chiller test" where it should have been "Immersion Chiller Test
Results"
Sorry for any confusion that this may have caused.
The post should be as follows:
Here are the results from cooling my wort with 1) the cold water entering
the top coil first and 2) the cold water entering the bottom coil first.
A few details first:
- - - -My wort chiller is 25 ft 3/8" copper coil
- - - -The coils are spaced about 1" apart
- - - -Volume of both worts at time of cooling was 24 liters
- - - -My water supply temp was 44 deg. F
- - - -The cold water supply was turned on full for the duration of both
coolings.
(this was the only way to keep the flow rate constant)
- - - -No other water in the house was running.
- - - -The lid was on during cooling. (except where chiller input/output is)
- - - -I used 2 floating thermometers. The temperatures were taken from where
the
tip of thermometers rest. (This was approximately in the middle of the wort)
- - - -I used the stop watch on my wrist watch for the timing.
TOP BOTTOM
Batch 1 Batch 2
Time Temp. Temp.
0:00 206 206 (no stirring)
5:00 138 138 (no stirring)
10:00 100 102 (no stirring)
15:00 88 84 (no stirring)
15:00-15:30 stirred
18:00 84 84
20:00 80 80
20:00-20:30 srirred
23:00 74 74
23:00-23:30 stirred
26:00 68 68
26:00-26:30 stirred
28:00 64 64
Conclusion: This is the normal way that I cool my wort. I do not stir for
the first 15 minutes, then I stir every few minutes. Using this method it
doesn't seem to make any difference on where the cold water flows into the
wort chiller. I would appear that with no stirring at all, that the cold
water entering on the bottom would have a slight advantage, (as indicated
after 15 minutes) I have no idea how a slower flow rate (ie: less water
usage) might effect these findings.
These are just my findings, in my home brewery, under my own test conditions.
Dan Morley
morleyd@cadvision.com
Brewing in the Great White North (Calgary, AB. Canada)
- ------- End of Forwarded Message
- --
We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming...
=============================================================
Mike Donald (mpd@plaza.ds.adp.com) 503/294-5294
ADP - Dealer Services Division - Data Communications
2525 S.W. First Avenue - Portland, OR 97201-4760
=============================================================
------------------------------
From: Lee Hiers AA4GA <aa4ga@contesting.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 23:28:56 +0000
Subject: Wild Goose
On 30 Oct 96, Mike Mitten wrote:
> Also, I've been planning on doing a nice Amber Ale followed by a
> coffee Porter, both with yeast I'd intended to start from a couple
> bottles of Wild Goose (Cambridge, Maryland, USA), but they've recently
> stopped bottle conditioning! ;-( Does anyone know what kind of yeast
> they were using? I'm contemplating a road trip down there to beg them
> for a mason jar full, or something; maybe I should just use Sierra
> Nevada instead.
Uh, I didn't know they bottle conditioned. When I was there, they
had big ol' filters they were running everything through. Anyway, I
think they use Ringwood yeast, which I think is what the Yeast Labs
Australian yeast is - I could be wrong, but if so, I'm sure I'll be
corrected!!
What's the deal with Snow Goose? I heard it went to a year-round
beer, but I haven't seen any in GA in about a year...and a few places
carry the other Wild Goose stuff.
Tnx.
- --
Lee Hiers, AA4GA
Cornelia, GA
mailto:aa4ga@contesting.com
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From: The Holders <zymie@sprynet.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:27:45 -0800
Subject: Chiller sanitation
To anyone using a counter flow chiller, or anyone that has heard of
one, what is the recommended method of cleaning/sanitation?
Private email is fine,
Wayne Holder
Long Beach CA
zymie@sprynet.com
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From: cburns@spider.lloyd.com (Charles Burns)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 19:09:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Goin to Atlanta...
I'm BAAAACCCCK! Withe the following very opinionated report:
At 05:41 PM 9/27/96 -0700, Eric Gutenkauf wrote:
>Atlanta is on the verge of a brewing boom. Most of their breweries have
>one really good beer and some others that aren't bad. Most, if not all
>Atlanta brewpubs are in Buckhead.
All of 'em are in Buckhead.
>
>John Harvard's, on Peachtree in Buckhead, great food (advanced pub grub),
>beer is good but not as good as the original in Cambridge, MA.
I really enjoyed my visit to John Harvards. Every beer tasted was excellent,
especially the Porter. Very comfortable atmosphere, great bartenders.
>
>Cherokee Brewing Company, Roswell Road just west of Peachtree in
>Buckhead, incredible food and menu, very good Oktoberfest, and a nice
>Brown Ale.
What a coincidence. The brewmaster, Doug, studied right here at UC Davis,
did an internship at the Rubicon, one of my favorite microbreweries in
Sacramento. He gave me and my brother a personal guided tour of the brewery
he is so proud of. He'd just finished his 13th batch, a wonderful English
style pale ale. It wasn't on tap yet but we got tastes during the tour, we
got tastes of stuff that was still fermenting!
>
>Phoenix Brewing Company, Roswell Road just inside the loop,
>Buckhead/Sandy Springs, good food (great sausage plate). Very nice Pils!
>
This was the most dissapointing. It was very far out of the way, the
bartender didn't want to be bothered with us, and it had a "yuppie" feel to
it. Cold, not friendly enough. We had a single beer (stout) and split.
>Atlanta Beer Garten, on Peachtree in Buckhead, 1/2 block south of John
>Harvard's. Buffalo Skull Dunkel is most promising beer.
This was the first place we stopped on my first night. Hell to find a
parking spot but its only a block away from John Harvards. The Buffalo Skull
had been replaced by their Ocoberfest which was very malty very nice indeed.
We walked from there to Jonh Harvards. This bar was your typical sports bar
layout, nothing special but the brew was pretty good.
>
>For microbreweries go to Taco Mac on Roswell Road just outside the loop.
> Try a Sweet Georgia Brown from Marthasville Brewing. Helenboch from
>Friends Brewing is local also.
We just ran out of time in Atlanta and these are all the visits we made. Our
favorite is definitely the Cherokee. If you go, try the ribs, excellent!
>
>Have fun,
>Eric
We did,
Charley
PS - we also ended up in Hilton Head South Carolina in the Hilton Head
Brewing Company. Good Beer, GREAT waitresses. Ask for Colleen..... MMmMMmmm.
And "The Lodge" next door has a walk in humidor, lots of microbrews and
pooltables, with a juke box that's pretty much 70's 80's rocknroll. Great
spot to spend an evening.
Charles Burns, President
Deer Valley Brewing Company (aka my patio)
cburns@lloyd.com
http://www.el-dorado.ca.us/~cburns/
------------------------------
From: davidh@melbpc.org.au (David Hill)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 15:54:01 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: Sparge necessary?
If one uses a large volume RIMS system
in my case 4.5lt per kilo of grain is it really
necessary to sparge?
I currently do sparge but wonder if it is worth the
trouble.
Surely at the end of the mash when the recirculating
sweet wort is raised to sparge temperature of 78C all
the sugar that is going to go into solution is already
in solution.
Just how much sugar would be left in the grain bed
if the wort was simply drained off without sparging?
If measurable quantities of sugar are left would it not be
less bother to just add a little extra to the grain bill
to compensate, rather than go to the trouble of setting up
a separate sparge heating and delivery system.?
A two tier gravity driven system sure sounds more
practical and easier to install within the height
available in the average garage or basement brewery
then a three tier system.
Just thinking
while relaxing
while having the homebrew
David
David Hill :-)>
------------------------------
From:
Date:
Subject: [none]
------------------------------
From: Robert Paolino <rpaolino@execpc.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 02:33:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Madison competition announcement
Announcing the
MADISON HOMEBREWERS AND TASTERS GUILD
Eleventh Annual Big and Huge Homebrew Competition
16 November 1996
at J.T. Whitney's Brewpub and Eatery
Madison, Wisconsin (Beer Capital of the Midwest)
For those of you who need a reminder, this is our "This, That, and the Other
Thing" competition of our two annual competitions (the other one is the Big
and Huge in May). The November Classic categories give the entrant the
opportunity to compete with beers of a wide range of styles, much like a
"best-of-show" situation, and the top beers from those categories go on to the
real BOS for additional recognition and prizes. Once again, we expect to be
able to offer a variety of brewing supplies as prizes (as well as the
ribbons).
In addition to the regular categories, the November Classic features a chance
to brew a brewpub scale batch of the winning beer in a special holiday beer
category. This is the second time the MHTG is doing a "brewer's dream"
category. Last year, Bob Paolino brought the full meaning of hops to the
Great Dane's customers. This year, YOU could have your own creation served to
the public at J.T. Whitney's (one of Madison's three brewpubs). There are no
special guidelines for the J.T. Whitney's Holiday Challenge portion of the
competition other than that the winner will be the designated "holiday" beer
to be served during the winter months. Spices, fruit, or other special
ingredients are possibilities _but are by no means required or expected_. Use
your imagination, creativity, and brewing skills for your own holiday
creation. The holiday entries will be judged by last year's winner and by
Rich Becker (J.T. Whitney's brewmaster).
Speaking of judges, this announcement also serves as a CALL TO JUDGES. Come
visit us in Madison for a day of judging a wide range of beers and for the
opportunity to enjoy the many high quality local beers in south-central
Wisconsin.
For entry information or to state your intention to judge, write to Bob
Paolino (NGHAB@juno.com) or this year's organiser, Bruce Garner
(bpgarner@mailbag.com) and we'll send the information to you by email or usps.
We look forward to receiving your entries!
Now go have a beer,
Bob Paolino rpaolino@earth.execpc.com
Madison
Have a beer today... for your palate and for good health
Vice President, Madison Homebrewers and Tastes Guild
For information, write to us at mhtg@stdorg.wisc.edu
------------------------------
From: "Chris Strickland" <cstrick@iu.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 06:10:55 -0500
Subject: Longer Ferments With Honey
I'm still experimenting with my Florida Sunshine Ale and just raised the
amount of orange blossom honey from 1 to 2 lbs. It appears to be still
slowly fermenting after two weeks, normally it's done after about 10 days.
I used around 9lbs of grain in a 5 gal batch with this ale. What concerns
me is the batches I've had that have gone bad where ones that continued
slow fermentation over several weeks. Is it normal for 2lbs of Honey to
take longer to ferment out?
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris Strickland
Email: cstrick@iu.net
New Horizons Software - http://www.sitesurfer.com/newhoriz
[Programming/UNIX/WEB Services,Central Fl Jobs, Entertainment, Vacation,
College Football]
------------------------------
From: TheTHP@aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 09:19:24 -0500
Subject: Christmas Ale-Brew Now or too late
Greetings all ye knowledgeable Masses,
I was wondering if I made a christmas ale on thanksgiving day if it would be
ready by christmas day? Assuming that I Keg it and Force carbonate it. Will
it "Green"? The Recipe is from Victory Beers and is as follows:
Anne's Choice Christmas Ale
Philip Fleming, Broomfield, Colorado
* Specialty * First Place, Specialty Beer, 1990 * Extract
Ingredients for 5 gallons:
3 1/2 pounds Munton and Fison malt extract kit
3 1/3 pounds Munton and Fison amber malt extract
3 pounds Munton and Fison amber dry malt extract
1/2 ounce Hallertauer hops (55 minutes)
3/4 pound honey (simmer 45 minutes)
5 three-inch cinnamon sticks (simmer 45 minutes) 2 teaspoons allspice (simmer
45 minutes)
1 teaspoon cloves
6 ounces ginger root
6 rinds from medium-sized oranges (simmer 45 minutes)
1/2 ounce Hallertauer hops (five minutes)
Wyeast No. 1007 German ale liquid yeast
7 ounces corn sugar to prime
*Original specific gravity: 1.069
*Final specific gravity: 1.030
*Primary fermentation: 14 days at 61 degrees F (16 degrees C) in glass
*Age when judged (since bottling): six months <This is what worries me!?>
Has anyone made this beer? Any suggestions are much appreciated
Private Email or Post it for all to see.
Thanks in advance,
Phil Wilcox
Posion Frog Home Brewery
*****Help!!! Throw me a mug, I'm KneeDeep in Ale!!!*****
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2256
****************************
