Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #2214
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/03 PDT
Homebrew Digest Thursday, 3 October 1996 Number 2214
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Wish we could cancel posts... ((George De Piro))
GABF festival judging (Dane Mosher)
Kegging high-gravity beers / GABF medals (or lack thereof) ((George De Piro))
kegging ((Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt)))
Miscellany ((Ed J. Basgall))
GABF ((Bill Giffin))
IPA Recipe Request/ Warm fe ("Craig Rode")
hazelnut recipe ((Greg Moore - SMCC BOS Hardware Engineering))
hop terminology ("Bryan L. Gros")
Re; Subject: Starter (John.E.Carsten@oklaosf.state.ok.us)
False Bottoms ((Tom Neary))
Laaglander (Steven Ketcham)
Filtering chill haze (Russ Brodeur)
40-60-70 and attentuation (Russ Brodeur)
Re: Lambics!! (Michael Caprara) ((Joe Formanek))
.22 micron filters (Bob McCowan)
Re: Aeration filter sanitation (Kelly Jones)
re: Cider (initial fermentation) ((Dick Dunn))
Yeast Package (Anton Schoenbacher)
continental malt vs domestic ((BAYEROSPACE))
Re: Leaf hops (Kelly Jones)
Begginner wants partial mash (Anton Schoenbacher)
What is Pale malt: (Jim Cave)
Pushing Wort, HBD Web (krkoupa@ccmail2.PacBell.COM)
Review of Brew Ware ("Palmer.John")
seattle ("Jay Lubinsky")
For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew@aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@aob.org
and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.
Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv@ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner@aob.org.
OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info@aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo@aob.org by e-mail.
COPYRIGHT:
As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 08:55:57 -0700
Subject: Wish we could cancel posts...
After re-reading Jeremy's rye post I realized that his mashing
schedule does boil the rye. This may blow my theory (see earlier
post), but it may not. If he boiled for only a short time, as opposed
to my double decoction, his mash would still have more structure, I
think.
I just don't know!
Sorry for the bandwidth used...
George De Piro (I need more sleep; 5 hours/night isn't cutting it!)
------------------------------
From: Dane Mosher <dmosher@xroadstx.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 08:23:49 -0500
Subject: GABF festival judging
Howdy beerethren,
I wanted to put in my $.02 on the quality of the judging at the
festival. Although I can't claim to have tried all the medal winners,
I can say that the medal winners I did try seemed worthy of the honor.
On the other hand, I also believe that the quality of American
microbrews as a whole still has a long way to go.
I know I'm a picky bastard, but most of the beers I tried I didn't
particularly enjoy. For example, I was really looking forward to
trying some Koelsches since this was their first year to be recognized
as a separate style. However I only found one that I didn't pour out
before finishing. I also noticed that the judges only saw fit to
award a bronze medal in this category--no gold or silver. I'm glad
that some awards such as these were withheld because I don't think the
judges should tell a microbrewery that their beer is superb when it
clearly isn't. How is beer going to improve in this country if we do
nothing but pat each other on the backs?
There were certainly some outstanding beers at the festival, but by no
means were all of them so. I applaud the PPBTers for trying to give
credit when and only when it was due.
Dane Mosher
Big Spring, TX
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 08:47:23 -0700
Subject: Kegging high-gravity beers / GABF medals (or lack thereof)
Malty Bill asks about kegging his soon-to-be-made Imperial Stout. His
main concern is that it may not develop the proper complexity if he
force carbonates rather than bottle conditions.
Why force carbonate? Why not keg it and call it "cask conditioned
Imperial Stout?" Just keg it before fermentation is done, or use your
favorite priming method.
It seems to me that the bigger problem is that kegged beer never seems
to last as long as bottled brew: "There's plenty left, I can have
another sample!"...4 hours later..."Hey, where'd all my beer go! I
was saving that for the Pope's visit next year!"
--------------------
Now for my opinion about the GABF medal awarding policy (if you're
sick of this stuff, PAGE DOWN NOW).
I can understand not awarding Gold medals (or even not awarding ANY
medals for an entire category). These things are MARKETING DEVICES.
If the best fruit beer in the contest isn't great, I mean REALLY
GREAT, why should the brewer get to brag about a GABF medal?
At the AHA Nationals this year some very mediocre-scoring beers took
home gold medals (off the top of my head, I know that the gold-medal
Bock scored a 34). Should a beer scoring that low take home a gold?
It was the highest scoring Bock, so maybe it should. Homebrewing
awards aren't the same marketing tools that GABF medals are.
Unlike the AHA, the GABF is a measure of ABSOLUTE quality, not
RELATIVE quality. If you're getting the right to call your beer the
BEST BEER IN AMERICA (blatant disregard for the TM), it had better be
DAMN GOOD by ALL standards, not just relative to the other competitors
that year.
And yes, pro brewers can make bad beer, too...
Forgive the ranting, sorry if it bored anyone.
Have a good time, all the time!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: toml@fcmc.COM (Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt))
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 09:52:36 EDT
Subject: kegging
I am thinking of kegging some homebrew in those 5 gallon soda kegs.
Under pressure and refrigeration, how long does a tapped keg last
before it loses taste or carbonation? or... does it last indefinitely?
Does a keg have to be refrigerated and/or carbonated right after it is
filled or can it be stored for a while?
Has anyone had bad experiences with kegging?
Can somesone refer me to publications or literature?
Private e-mail OK
Regards
Tom
------------------------------
From: edb@chem.psu.edu (Ed J. Basgall)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:03:56 -0400
Subject: Miscellany
Hi all, (Steve, Al, David, Charles, Wade, HBD collective)
Just a quick note to let you know I haven't dropped off the
face of the earth (yet). I've been swamped at work and have barely had
time to go through my email. I wish I could participate in your expt.
but I have too many other obligations at this time. We just purchased a
house and are putting on an addition. The shortening daylight hours are
working against me. Central PA is starting to be filled with beautiful fall
foliage and many wild mushrooms are up.
I am also designing an experiment to satisfy myself and address the concerns
about aeration of wort solutions. Sterility of different setups and dissolved
oxygen in particular. I still can't conceive how bugs might be able to be
transported through a 1/2" cotton plug in an airline. But without the empirica
data I would be just blowing smoke.
More on these issues as I consult with friends in the aquatic oxygen
availability field. Dissloved oxygen meters are only about $600.00.
Sterile agar plates are much less $. Once I get access to both,
I'm all set to go. I'll send out details on the expt'l setup once I have
things written up. Please feel free to comment, critique, flame....
cheers
Ed Basgall
SCUM
(State College Underground Maltsters)
University Park, PA
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:13:25 cst
Subject: GABF
Top of the morning to ye all,
Remember whose event the GABF is. The AOB can run the event in any
manner that they chose. If they feel the need, as they obviously did, to
give a bit of credibility to their judges by giving them a title well it
is their thing.
Bill
------------------------------
From: "Craig Rode" <craig.rode@sdrc.com>
Date: 3 Oct 1996 09:23:11 -0600
Subject: IPA Recipe Request/ Warm fe
If any of you hop heads have an idea of what the hop schedule would be for the
current incarnation of Grant's IPA, I sure would be obliged if you would share
it with me. I can't quite place it.
I have a problem with my latests pale ale. It's essentially a SNPA clone, one
that I have made with great success in the past. The current batch
tastes...well....lousy. Missing the hop nose I usually get, and sorta funky
tasting. The classic symptoms of infection, I know. However, I believe my
sanitation procedures to be fairly straightforward and reliable. The only
difference with this batch is that I started brewing earlier in the year than
usual (despite Al K's warning) when it was still fairly warm in the basement.
I think this fermented in an ambient temp of about 75-80F. What are the taste
symptoms of a beer fermented too warm?
After a year of using a Corona, I just switched to a JSP MaltMill (TM). I
must say that it really does a fine job. Do those of you that own one of
these devices usually remove the fingerguards so more of the rollers are
eating grain? Also, I thought that the thing was guaranteed for life even if
motorized, but the literature seems to indicate otherwise. What's the deal?
TIA
Craig (Milwaukee, WI)
------------------------------
From: gmoore@wacko.East.Sun.COM (Greg Moore - SMCC BOS Hardware Engineering)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:22:06 -0400
Subject: hazelnut recipe
Well, ok - no one has the rogue hazelnut recipe. I've heard that the
longshot hazelnut was a bit heavy on the hazelnut extract. Also
heard that the recipe for the beer was on the bottom of the carton.
Does anyone have the longshot recipe they can send me and I'll try to
modify it to be closer to the rogue variety?
Of course, I'll post it back to the group if I ever get it perfected.
- -G
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 09:24:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: hop terminology
>
>Dave writes:
>>If you use whole leaf hops,
>
>(I guess this is pick on Dave day ;^). "Leaf hops" are a misnomer. You
>use the hop flowers for brewing, not the leaves.
Al's comment is true. But "leaf hops" is a common term, at least among
the homebrewers that I know. I've also heard "whole hops", "hop
cones", and "hop flowers" used a lot. I think they are all acceptable,
all used a lot, and they all mean the same thing.
Am I right?
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: John.E.Carsten@oklaosf.state.ok.us
Date: 03 Oct 96 09:42:32 -0500
Subject: Re; Subject: Starter
Jorge Blasig says: "I think I have some problems with the starter (for his
first batch of mead).
I added three big spoons of honey to a pint of water and 1 tsp of yeast
extract and boiled for 15 min. I put this wort in a 1 L bottle. When it
was at around 25C, I added 2 tsp of previously re-hydrated yeasts and
aereated it as much as possible and put the airlock to the bottle.
There has been lots of bubbling since then (started immediately after the
pitching) and during the last three days. However, the yeasts do not seem
to grow as I think I need. I have a 1 cm sediment since the beginning but
it does not seem to grow to 5 cm as I was suggested. I do not not whether
this is enough for pitching a 25 L carboy or not. "
My two cents (take this for what it's worth) I have limited mead making
experience.
But this is based on what I've made so far.
He is making a starter from honey, which means he is essentially making a
"mini batch" mead. Due to the high gravity and fermentability of honey, most
meads take months or even years to ferment completely.
This being considered, it is not surprising (to me) that very little of his
yeast has settled
to the bottom of his starter. If it is actively fermenting, I would say that
it is in prime condition
to pitch into his must (that's wort, to you).
The amount of sediment shouldn't matter at this point because there is likely
quite a bit of
yeast still in suspension. My suggestion would be to pitch the starter, open a
homebrew, and
let your mead rest in a warm dark place.
Sorry for the bandwidth, But I hate for people to worry about their meads. It
musses your must.
John
Making Mead in the Hearland
------------------------------
From: thomas.neary@peri.com (Tom Neary)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:43:57 -0400
Subject: False Bottoms
I am in the process of designing a multi-tier 3 converted keg brewing system.
The false bottom that I have decided on is a perforated SS sheet. But the
problem I have is that I have seen two different styles in use.
What are the pros & cons of using a 15" diameter perforated SS sheet which
covers the entire circumfirence of the the keg and sits on short legs as
opposed to an approximately 7" diameter sheet which sits flat on the bottom and
only covers the little depression in the bottom center of the keg. Both false
bottoms have an L-shaped tube which goes thru the center of the false bottom
and thru the keg wall.
The only thing I can think of is the amount of liquid which will sit under
the grain bed during mashing, but I'm not sure if or why it would matter.
It appears that all liquid will drain through the L-shaped tube.
Any and all comments are greatly appreciated.
TN
------------------------------
From: Steven Ketcham <ketcham@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 08:09:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Laaglander
Hello!
I just finished brewing an extract only beer. I was amazed at how good it
was (we've all made comments like this before). I would like to know some of
the data on it. Could someone give a stab at the SRM and the IBU's of the
end product? I would like to try a whole grain recipe sometime in the future
and I enjoyed the flavor of this one.
One (1) four lb. can of Laaglander Irish Ale boiled for 15 min in two gal.s
of water as per Papazian.
One (1) cup of sugar added at fermenting and three fourths (3/4) cup of
sugar at bottling.
The total yield in the carboy was five (5) gallons (the recipe given called
for four but my six year old daughter wasn't there to help count).
Allowed to ferment for six days and age in the bottle for seven. The beer
was a dark almost red color. It was really good!
Thanks.
------------------------------
From: Russ Brodeur <r-brodeur@ds.mc.ti.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 11:12:29 -0400
Subject: Filtering chill haze
I am toying with the idea of filtering my beer. I have kegs of both
pils and Octoberfest which I brewed for a friend's O'fest celebration.
Both have been lagering for 2 weeks now, and will be lagered an
additional 2 weeks before consumption. The pils is based primarily on
DWC pils malt , plus 1 lb. Ireks Munich, and the O'fest is brewed from
straight Ireks Munich malt. Both are double-decoction mashed w/o a
"protein" rest at 122F. I use 140-45 F and 155-60 F rests for control
of wort fermentability with mash-in at 105 F. I sampled both brews last
night and there was still a considerable amount of chill haze (more in
the O'fest than the pils).
Anyway, my lagering fridge is on its last legs and won't go below 40-45
F. So, I am not getting adequate flocculation of chill haze
precipitates and would like to filter (so the beers "look" pretty at
Octoberfest). Any idea what pore-size filter to use?? I will be
transferring from keg to keg under CO2 pressure, so it should be an easy
thing to do.
TTFN
Russ Brodeur in Franklin, MA
------------------------------
From: Russ Brodeur <r-brodeur@ds.mc.ti.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 11:24:44 -0400
Subject: 40-60-70 and attentuation
It's been a couple of years since I last brought this up, but has anyone
out there had any luck using this mash schedule (40-60-70 C), as
initially proposed by G. Fix, to control fermentability in
INFUSION-mashed beers???
I have found the 60:70 C rest-time ratio super effective for controlling
attenuation in DECOCTION-mashed beers, but insignificant in
infusion-mashed beers. There is obviously something going on at 140 F
in an infusion mash, because the wort begins to taste sweet, but my
attenuation using a 30 min:30 min ratio have always been as though I'd
used the 70 C rest only (ie. poor attenuation).
I'd like to hear what others have observed.
TTFN
Russ Brodeur in Franklin, MA
------------------------------
From: jformane@students.uiuc.edu (Joe Formanek)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:30:26 +0800
Subject: Re: Lambics!! (Michael Caprara)
Lambics!! (Michael Caprara) said:
>My advice is to get a separate racking cane and siphon hose for lambics
>only. Some of the bacteria cultures that you use can contaminate your
>plastic. Also, they stink BIG TIME, and you may not want to put a stinky,
>white mold covered bacteria starter into your lambic, but JUST DO IT!
>Ferment only in glass and clean thouroughly with bleach before using for
>a "regular" beer. Finally, let it age, let it age, let it age, and then, let
it
>age some more. Bottle at least 12 or so small bottles and try one a month for
>a year, take good notes, and you will be amazed at how the lambic
>changes.
What I have have attempted on some recent (last 4 mos. or so)
lambics that I've made is to ferment in plastic. I noticed on some earlier
attempts that I had a difficult time developing a nice pellicle of Pedio on
the lambics in glass. Flavor stayed quite bland, and I used either Boon,
Cantillion or Hanssens starters in them.
Figured that it might be a aeration problem--too little surface
area in contact with oxygen right off the bat. so...I ran my wort chiller
right into the open plastic fermenter and covered it with sanitized
cheesecloth. Kept it like this for 4-5 days, then covered it and put in the
airlock. Within a week it had developed the beginnings of a GREAT pellicle!
This one is about 4 mos. old now, and it has developed some really nice
acetic as well as Brettanomyces character. Just got to wait another year or
so to really find out how it worked.
Has anyone else tried this method before? With what results?
Cheers!
Joe
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Joseph A. Formanek President, Boneyard Union of
580 Bevier Hall Zymurgical Zealots (BUZZ)
U of Ill--Urbana/Champaign BUZZ - "When too much is not enough!"
(217) 244-2879 (w) 2nd Annual BUZZ Boneyard Brewoff
(217) 351-7858 (h) 7/20/96 - What a time it was!!!!!!!!
Grad student, Professional and Home Brewer, BUZZ president....
Gad! What else can I get myself into?????
Now on tap at "Joe's Brewery": "Academic Ale", and "German Alt"
Now on tap at Joe's house: "Quicktime English Pale" and "Zippy Scottish Ale"
Disclaimer: "No, I don't own the Brewery--just the house!!!"
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
------------------------------
From: Bob McCowan <bob.mccowan@bmd.cpii.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:25:35 -0400
Subject: .22 micron filters
>When I bought my 0.22 micron inline air filter from Heartland Hydroponics,
>the person I talked to on the phone said absolutely do NOT run water
>through the filter, because liquids were too big to pass through the
>hydrophobic membrane. My question is, given the admonition I recently
>received, how does one sanitize the inline filter?
>
>Truth in brewing,
>
>Nick
These things should be wrapped and sterile.
Bob
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob McCowan
voice: (508)-922-6000 x208
ATG/Receiver-Protector fax: (508)-922-8914
CPI BMD
Formerly Varian CF&RPP e-mail: bob.mccowan@bmd.cpii.com or
Beverly, MA 01915 bob.mccowan@cfrp.varian.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Kelly Jones <kejones@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 09:30:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Aeration filter sanitation
Nicholas Dahl wrote:
> When I bought my 0.22 micron inline air filter from Heartland Hydroponics,
> the person I talked to on the phone said absolutely do NOT run water
> through the filter, because liquids were too big to pass through the
> hydrophobic membrane.
Folklore! True, most of these filters are made from expanded PTFE, or
Gore-Tex. True, Gore-Tex won't pass loose water droplets freely. That
doesn't mean that liquids can't be forced through the filter with a little
bit of pressure. If you have the filter I'm thinking of, it was made to fit
on the end of a syringe. Try filling a syringe with sanitizer and squirting
a few cc's through.
Kelly
Hillsboro, OR
------------------------------
From: rcd@raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn)
Date: 3 Oct 96 10:26:41 MDT (Thu)
Subject: re: Cider (initial fermentation)
Tim.Watkins@analog.com wrote:
> When using the wild yeasts to ferment a cider, would it be better to
> use an open fermentation, or a closed one with an airlock?...
You don't want it truly "open" (unless you *really* like cider vinegar) -
yes, contamination would be an issue. A loosely-covered pail (the way some
folks do primary fermentation of a beer) will work, but it's not the best.
On the other side, if you're starting with good juice, perhaps fresh-
pressed, it's likely not to have been filtered very much, if at all. This
means there's a lot of small solids that you've got to get rid of. If you
tried to start the fermentation with an airlock on (which I *don't*
recommend) you'd need a bunch of headspace for safety.
So the best arrangement is a blowoff, because that's the easy way to push
the solids and crud out of the cider, during those first few days when the
fermentation is really lively. Fill your carboy fairly full, and use a
real blowoff--a large tube, so it doesn't clog. None of this half-inch
tubing fitted to a stopper; use the largest tubing that will just fit
inside the neck of the carboy.
- ---
Dick Dunn rcd@talisman.com Boulder County, Colorado USA
...Too bad about Boulder.
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 9:53:34 PDT
Subject: Yeast Package
I popped my wyeast package a couple of days ago and was
wondering how long I could go before using it.
I was going to brew and have changed my mind (no money)
It was about an inch thick then I put it in my fridge
yesterday.
Should I dump it in some extract/water 'wort' to give it
more food ?
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
******************************************************
------------------------------
From: M257876@sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:58 -0600
Subject: continental malt vs domestic
collective homebrew conscience:
jim layton wrote:
>I use Am. 2-row malt (from Great Western) in most of my ales and I have never
>experienced flavors that I could attribute to DMS. On the other hand, I've
>used continental pils malts, from DWC and Durst,<snip>. In each of these
>cases a pleasant flavor I believe to be due to DMS is present. I can detect
>this same flavor in many commercial German beers (helles, helles bock, and
>pils) and therefore I believe it to be appropriate in these styles.
>My boiling and cooling techniques are consistent (90 min. boil, immersion
>chill to pitching temp within 45 min). I cannot attribute this flavor to any
>factor other than the malt. Does this experience match with that of others?
>Is this flavor, which I can describe as smooth and grain-like but not really
>"corny", due to DMS?
i would say that what you're tasting is the difference between continental
and domestic malt. i see no reason for domestic 2 row pale (not pale ale,
right?) to have less potential for dms than continental pils malts. the
kilnings for these malts would be similar, not as high as traditionally
malted english pale ale malt. just as with hops, you can't just bring a
variety of barley over the ocean, put it in a different climate/soil, and
expect it to thrive. there are undoubtedley economic factors at play as
well (yield/acre etc$$$) for the reasons we have different barley strains
in n. america as compared to the malting barleys that originated in
europe.
by the way, in my previous post i mentioned "traditional english malting"
and "exhaustive english malting procedure". i didn't go into any detail on
what i meant by that, but al k and steve alexander responded to clarify that
what i was referring to was the greater modification that many pale ale
malts get as compared to typical lager malt. al k points out correctly that
this is an idea that comes from the past when the malting methods really
were quite different, and today the difference in modification is probably
not that great between the pale ale and lager malts we have available.
regarding the levels of nitrogen in modern barley (on the rise, according to
al k), i have a question as to how this affects our beer. if the total
protein levels are going up, do we need better modification and/or more
exhaustive mashing schedules (i.e. protein rests) to compensate for this?
is it the total protein that determines if we need a protein rest, or just
the soluble/insoluble ratio? what effects other than chill haze does excess
big protein in the final beer cause? are there any ill effects on the
flavor? are there potential stability problems for unpasteurized beer?
which book is it that i have to get to answer these questions?
brew hard,
mark bayer
------------------------------
From: Kelly Jones <kejones@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 10:02:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaf hops
Al writes:
> Dave writes:
> >If you use whole leaf hops,
>
> (I guess this is pick on Dave day ;^). "Leaf hops" are a misnomer. You
> use the hop flowers for brewing, not the leaves.
Al: "Leaf hops" is a term used by brewers, hop growers, and hop merchants
to describe the hop product (strobiles) used in whole, unprocessed form, as
opposed to pelletized, plugged, extracted, etc. "Hop leaves" would describe
the leaves of the hop plant, and you probably wouldn't want to use them as a
substitue for "Leaf Hops".
Kelly
Hillsboro, OR
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 10:08:46 PDT
Subject: Begginner wants partial mash
I have never done a partial mash, I want to.
Does anybody have a good relatively easy recipie
to start with, along with some basic guidlines
on what to do ?
Thanks much
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
******************************************************
------------------------------
From: Jim Cave <CAVE@PSC.ORG>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:16:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: What is Pale malt:
Al Korzonas writes that we shouldn't be using the term "Pale malt" in
reference to lager or pils malts. This would cause unecessary confusion.
Unfortunately, both Canada malting and Gambrinus refer to their products as
"Pale Malt" and these are "lager type" malts. Since Canada malting is the
world's largest malting conglomerate, I think we need to advise people of the
term "Pale Malt" and its designation.
Jim Cave
------------------------------
From: krkoupa@ccmail2.PacBell.COM
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 11:08:54 PST
Subject: Pushing Wort, HBD Web
Here are two "aha's" I wanted to pass on. Or maybe they're
"duh's"?
1. Filling converted kegs with a pump. For space reasons I
use a 2-tier system with a pump instead of a 3-tier system
with all-gravity. (Some day I hope to be an all-gravity
brewer, but right now I use pump extracts.) Previously, I
had pumped the hot wort to the top of the keg and dropped it
in from the top. But when folks questioned me about HSA, I
rethought the aerial top drop and started looking at the keg
"exit". My boil-kettle keg has a stainless steel welded
coupling with a ball valve and quick connect fitting on the
outside, ss false bottom on the inside. So, I
quick-connected the pump to the "exit" and pushed the wort
into the boil kettle up from the bottom. And it works! I
pushed 15+ gallons of liquid up 5 feet with the Little Giant
/ Grainger 2P039 pump. I partially close the ball valve on
the keg to provide positive pressure on the output side of
the pump, just like the external gate valve I had previously
used from the top drop. No splash, less equipment. I also
installed a foot-operated on/off switch for the pump, so I
didn't have to plug/unplug it from house electricity while
adjusting the ball valve. Major convenience.
2. Hypertext, not e-mail. I must have hit page down too
many times ("... scroll down for crissakes" - J. Busch) ...
I just stumbled into HBD on the internet ... and I don't
remember anyone mentioning this before. You mean I didn't
have to receive HBD as e-mail files all this time? I could
just go to
http://alpha.rollanet.org/hbd/HBD.html
any time I felt like it? And search for whatever topic I
wanted to find? OK, sometimes my lightbulb is slow to glow,
but now I know the secret.
Ken Koupal
krkoupa@ccmail2.pacbell.com
http://www3.pair.com/jgurney/one/brewnet.html
------------------------------
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Date: 3 Oct 1996 11:19:47 U
Subject: Review of Brew Ware
Patrick Dominick asked if anyone had read Brew Ware. Yes, I have. I reviewed it
for the current Sept/Oct issue of Brewing Techniques. I will reprint the
unedited version here.
Brew Ware -
How to Find, Adapt, and Build Homebrewing Equipment
by
Karl Lutzen and Mark Stevens.
Storey Publishing, Pownal, Vermont, 1996
300 pages
Lutzen and Stevens, the authors of Homebrew Favorites - a collection of public
domain recipes from the Internet, have done it again. Their latest effort is a
compilation of the many homebrewing equipment and gadget ideas that have been
discussed on the Internet over the past several years. The book was written
with the experienced brewer in mind, someone that has developed a need for
gadgets to facilitate the brewing processes. Logically, most of the material
in the book is oriented to the grain brewer. There are chapters devoted to
discussing and building Grain Mills, Mash/Lauter Tuns and Kegging. There are
also chapters that deal with equipment used for growing and drying hops and
yeast culturing; probably the first time these topics have been addressed from
the equipment angle.
The book is a bit awkward getting off the ground, though. The look and text on
the cover conveys the impression that this book is for the beginner. It is,
but it's for the beginning gadgeter, not the beginning brewer. Someone who
picks up the book expecting to learn how to brew will be quickly overwelmed by
the apparent need for lots of equipment. This impression is not helped by the
fact that the first chapter compares the homebrewing processes with commercial
microbrewery processes and the second chapter is concerned with materials and
processes for building a Three Tier, Gravity Fed All-Grain system. The
treatment of these topics is well done, it's just a matter of the reader's
expections when getting into them. An experienced brewer, looking for ideas on
how to build his all-grain brewing system will be right at home.
The chapters proceed in much the same order as the brewing processes do. While
this is logical for organizing an overall brewing system, it does not follow
the normal learning curves for most brewers. Presenting the equipement ideas
that can be applied to extract and extract with specialty grain brewing first
(ex. wort chilling, bottling), may have been a better way to arrange the
comprehensive information this book presents.
The individual gadget ideas that are presented in each chapter are easy to read
and well illustrated. The illustrations of the various ideas are drawn by
Randy Mosher, notable brewer and author of The Brewer's Companion. Many of the
drawings are done in drafting style, showing the reader how the item is
manufactured and assembled. Ideas are laid out clearly, listing materials,
parts, tools and assembly steps. There is even a section in the back listing
suppliers for commercial equipement and common parts as well as those hard to
find items like food grade RIMS pumps.
Lutzen and Stevens have brought together a lot of material for this book. They
have contacted and quoted the original authors of some particularly notable
ideas that were previously published to the Internet. Likewise they have
reviewed and compared notable commercial products when discussing grain mills,
lautering and fermentation systems. This book will be a welcome addition to
the library of any brewer looking to learn new methods and facilitate their
current processes.
**************
John Palmer - Metallurgist
johnj@primenet.com
Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/
------------------------------
From: "Jay Lubinsky" <j-lubins@govst.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 13:45:17 GMT-6
Subject: seattle
Hi Brewers,
I'll be taking my first trip to Seattle next month. I know this is a
land of great beer. What are your recommendations of where to go for
some of it?
Thanks,
Jay Lubinsky
Private e-mail okay: j-lubins@govst.edu
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2214
****************************
