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HOMEBREW Digest #2217
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/06 PDT
Homebrew Digest Sunday, 6 October 1996 Number 2217
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
teflon washers ((Jeff Sturman))
PPBT & judging / hops and dogs ((David C. Harsh))
X-Sender: grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu ("Bryan L. Gros")
Variety Pack ("Craig Rode")
Robotic pallette--who cares? (Jeremy Bergsman)
Lautering Rye (Steve Alexander)
Peated Malt, Air Filtration (Hugh Graham)
minikegs (Terry White)
Re: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack (Geoff Bagley)
RE: "Tapping" a fridge (Dave Broughton - PICCO)
6 pack ((LaBorde, Ronald))
sixpack conversions ((beerdogs))
unsubsribe steg@prolog.net (steg@postoffice.ptd.net)
aeration, & "choreboys" (John Bell)
RE: The un-believer's Six-Pack (Tom Lombardo)
Subject: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack ("Robert Petersen")
Beer is Beer six pack (TPuskar@aol.com)
hops and dogs ("Robert Petersen")
False Bottom Selection (Kirk R Fleming)
Beer for the Un-Believers (Kurt Schilling)
Harvest Festival English Ale (Annetmark@aol.com)
Ph and partial mash (Anton Schoenbacher)
Aeration filter sanitation ("Sutton, Bob")
dry hopping (DownAPint@aol.com)
Looking for Youngs Oatmeal Stout Recipe ((Raymond P Kasprowicz))
Making a Mead Starter (Steve)
sanitation (Kathy Booth )
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: brewshop@coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 14:31:28 -0600
Subject: teflon washers
Does anyone know where I can find teflon washers? I've come across a dozen
or so oxygen tanks that I am converting to brewkettles and I need the
teflon washers for the drain valves. I think these same types of washers
are used with the Easymasher, however I need 1/2" i.d. washers. I am in
Wyoming (aka the middle of nowhere) and I cannot find any source for these
washers locally. Any help greatly appreciated.
jeff
casper,wy
------------------------------
From: dharsh@alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 17:12:49 -0400
Subject: PPBT & judging / hops and dogs
On the PPBT stuff:
First, I agree with Rob Moline that most competitions have an
element of crap shoot in them. If your beer matches the style in the minds
of the judges, you win. Especially in styles where the guidelines say
things like "hop aroma low to high" (or even "medium to high"). Everyone
has their idea of the perfect example of each style and the majority are in
your zone, you come out ahead.
As far as the qualification of PPBT judges goes, I think the
problem was that there was a lot of (perceived) arrogance from people
involved with the program assuring that all the judges were wonderful
without actually telling us how they knew this. Jeanne did explain the
program fairly well - it makes it pretty clear that the judges are all
brewing professionals, no home brewers need apply. The GABF has the right
to run these things however they want, although the snide attitude towards
the BJCP is insulting - if taking the exam truly below the level of the
judges, let them take it and prove it.
Concerning the HBD as an appropriate forum for discussion of this
issue, let the collective decide.
On hops and dogs-
bob rogers asks:
>does anybody _know_ if growing hops are bad for dogs?
Actually, growing hops is very good for dogs. Gives them a way to occupy
themselves so they don't end up joining gangs or harassing the neighbors.
And of course, dogs are naturals at fertilizing so they usually get a good
crop.
Seriously, if your dog is into munching things, I wouldn't do it. Even if
he isn't, I still wouldn't. Hops being toxic after use would mean they are
toxic on the vine too. Some dogs ignore plants, some dogs go after them.
Adios.
Dave
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 16:48:04 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: X-Sender: grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Fred Waltman writes:
>There has been some discussion of the proper amount of Baird Peated Malt
>to use in a recipe. You should be aware that there are both "Light Peat"
>and "Medium Peat" (and for all I know a "Heavy Peat") versions. This may
>account for the different results people have posted. The Medium is much
>stronger. If your retailer buys full bags, they should know which one they
>have.
There was a short article about smoked beers in the latest Southern
Draft (I think). The author mentioned that, not only is the "Medium
Peat" stronger, but the strength is more variable batch to batch.
The author (from Dixie Brewing, New Orleans) also mentioned that
there are German smoked malts available. I've never seen these offered
before, however, has anyone else? Maybe the German malts are
smoked over the more traditional beechwood.
I think I'd much prefer beech or hickory smoke to peat if I was
going to make a smoke beer.
*******
Darrin Pertschi <darrinp@cowles.com> writes:
>
>In the grain-bag-mashing thread, Ken says:
>"To be on the safe side, stick with around 1-1/2 quarts water per pound of
>steeped grains..."
>Why is this? I think I recall someone else stating no more than 1 gal. per
>pound of grains.
>
>I regularly fill my pot with two gallons of water and steep my grains at
>150 for 30 to 60 min. I may have between one half and two pounds of
>grain. No rhyme or reason to my water volume, I just figured the more
>water the more goodness that could escape from the grains. It sounds like
>I'm wrong, but why?
If you're steeping specialty malts like crystal, chocolate etc. then you're
fine.
Don't worry about it.
I think Ken is talking about mini-mashing. If you're steeping grains
like pale malt, biscuit malt etc. which need to be mashed, then you don't
want so much water (see selected posts over the last week or two).
Basically, with mashing the enzymes that convert the starch to sugar
are in the water. Too much water will dilute the enzymes and make
your mash less successful.
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: "Craig Rode" <craig.rode@sdrc.com>
Date: 4 Oct 1996 16:57:40 -0600
Subject: Variety Pack
Ken Schwartz writes:
If you had to assemble a six-pack of beer to give to a "beer is beer" type
person, which six would it be?
Ok, so compared to Al K or Jim B I'm not exactly a beer scholar. But dammit,
I'm from Milwaukee and have been drinking beer for 22 years (uh..legally) so
I'll bite:
Grant's Imperial Stout, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Pilsner Urquell, McEwans
Tartan Ale, Paulaner Mai Bock, and Fuller's ESB.
I know I have not listed fruit/wheat/lambic etc etc etc but maybe I was
thinking of what I would like in front of me right now.....
Craig (Milwaukee, Wi....Whence we chased Schlitz outta town)
------------------------------
From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb@leland.stanford.edu>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 14:20:35 -0800
Subject: Robotic pallette--who cares?
Carl Hattenburg writes:
> Specific Gravity, Original Extract (w/w), Original Extract (w/v),
> Alcohol (v/v), Real Extract (%w/v), Apparent extract (%w/w),
> Apparent extract (%w/v), Real degree of fermentation (%),
> Apparent degree of fermentation (%), Real fermentation (%),
> Apparent fermentation (%), Extract/Alcohol Index,
> Refractive Index, Calories (100g), Calories (100ml),
> Calories (12 oz), Kilo Joule (100g), Kilo Joule (100ml),
> Kilo Joule (12 oz), Present Gravity, Spirit Indication,
> Extract Gravity, Degrees Lost, Original Gravity. (whew!)
>
> Ok - as I love & appreciate the HBD and it's users, I
> would like to offer the services of my 'robotic palate'
> to the consortium....you send me a bottle (or a keg!!!)
> of your homebrew, and I'll send you the printout of the
> results! (I keep the *brown* bottle...and the kegs!)...
If this is a joke, I don't get it. If it isn't a joke,
I don't get it. If you just measure your specific gravity
before and after fermentation you can calculate any of these
quantities.
I'm not sure what your "device" is but I doubt it can
measure IBU's, since these are quite different from
alcohol and gravity measurements, which it would seem
is all you can do.
All of those things are just permutations of three
figures: OG, FG, %EtOH, and you only need to measure
two of those to figure the third: (OG*-FG*)/7.5=%EtOH (v/v)
(*measured in "points" i.e. thousandths over 1.000). I
would guess a decent hydrometer and a piece of paper for
record keeping is cheaper than shipping 2 bottles of beer.
- --
Jeremy Bergsman
mailto:jeremybb@leland.stanford.edu
http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jeremybb
------------------------------
From: Steve Alexander <stevea@clv.mcd.mot.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 18:20:52 -0400
Subject: Lautering Rye
George_De_Piro says ...
> I've noticed two people say that they have used substantial quantities
> of rye with no lautering problems. As you have all read, this is NOT
> my experience. I think I may know part of the reason.
>
> My Roggen beer was double decocted. Contrary to what one might think,
> decocted mashes have LESS structure than infusion mashes and are
> therefore sometimes more difficult to lauter (they even look "mushier"
> than infusion mashes).
>
> Proteins are a large part of what gives a grain it's structural
> support (along with cellulose), and decocting does a wonderful job of
> breaking them down.
>
> Perhaps decocting is not the way to go when homebrewing a rye beer!
My recent rye beer was 63% malted rye and was also double decocted.
Altho I agree with your comments regarding the boiled grist mass
having less structure, but the decoctions seemed to have the effect of
breaking up the rye's glueyness (ok I just made that word up).
I use a 1/2" copper tube w/ hacksaw slits for lautering and it seems
virtually unstickable. In spite that - I was pretty worried looking
at the consistancy of the first decoction - total glue. It got
progressively better with each decoction. I was able to lauter in
about 75 minutes, longer than normal but not bad. I did have rice
hulls on hand in case of a seriously stuck lauter - but didn't use
'em. I suspect many lauter designs would require this.
The rye sparged a lot better than I had expected, but it is certainly
a troublesome grain in the lauter tun.
Steve Alexander
------------------------------
From: Hugh Graham <hugh@lamar.ColoState.EDU>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 16:42:42 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Peated Malt, Air Filtration
The latest Brewing Techniques mag. has a note discussing 2 grades
of peated malt that Hugh Baird produces, with figures for the
varying and different levels of phenol therein. Apparently, the higher
phenol grade also has higher variation in its phenol content.
This obviously could explain the observed discrepancies in recipe
formulation.
I recently brewed a tasty batch of peat smoked porter and
a most drinkable peat smoked scottish ale.
Both used 1 lb of Hugh Baird Peated Malt in 10 gallons and a 'unique
subtle smokiness' which does not 'overpower the brew' resulted.
The phenolic nature of this smokiness seems to mellow, blend and fade
with time.
I do not know which grade of peated malt my supplier supplied.
Next time I'll ask.
When designing a recipe to use this phenolic flavor, may I humbly suggest
including complementary flavors to blend with the phenolics and to produce
a well balanced beer. This would be possible even with an 'in your face'
level of smokiness. The porter and scottish ale I brewed were both
moderately hopped to style, with the brown malt in porter and Special B in
the scottish ale helping to produce well rounded, smooth beers, (IMHO).
As I recall, both beers used other specialty malts too, but those
mentioned above seemed to blend with the phenolics rather well. Base malt
was Hugh Baird pale ale in both cases (actually 8 cases :-) and I used the
Wyeast ESB yeast for the porter and the Scottish ale Wyeast for the
scottish ale.
- ------
Air Filtration
0.2 micron autoclaveable air filters are available from science supply
houses. These could be sterilized in the steam phase of a pressure cooker
along with SS aeration stones and high temp hoses. Contact with liquids
can indeed cause these membrane filters to block up temporarily until dry.
(As I recall, Gelman Acrodisc 50 is one such brand, usual disclaimer).
I note, however, that those of us that aerate by agitation in the carboy
are not using sterile air and furthermore, those of us (all of us?) who do
not prefill our fermenters with sterile air before wort addition
risk contamination from airborne microbes. Coughing near an open
fermenter is probably a much higher level of risk, though.
Pumping air through wort results in greater risk of contamination
than simple agitation because of the greater volume of air involved
and the greater level of air/liquid interface produced, which
is of course the whole point of this process. So if I were to
use pumped air aeration on a regular basis, I would prefer to
use a filter.
Hugh in Ft Collins, CO.
------------------------------
From: Terry White <brew@buffnet.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 18:50:47 -0700
Subject: minikegs
In response to the question regarding minikegs, I own a home brew supply
store and I try to discourage my customers when they ask about the mini
kegs. You are much better off with a full corny keg setup, it cost a
little more initially but is a better value. A complete kegs setup with
a reconditioned corny keg runs $175.00, I know this sounds expensive but
when you consider that it takes 4 mini kegs to hold a 5 gallon batch of
beer at $6 each, plus another buck apiece for the bungs,between $50 - 60
for the CO2 tap and your up to around $70 now add the $15 for a box of
ten CO2 cartridges(you can use 2-3 per mini keg) and after 5 or 6 batches
of beer you've spent as much as a corny keg setup. And IMO the corny kegs
are much better than mini kegs, they hold a full five gallons and you
have your choice of priming or force carbonating. I would recommend
holding out for the corny kegs, you won't be sorry.
Terry
------------------------------
From: Geoff Bagley <geoff@gcbagley.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 19:04:59 +0100
Subject: Re: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack
Hi there!
I don't think that "good beer" ever goes into a six-pack. Good beer
doesn't even go into bottles or cans.
Good beer is naturally conditioned in the cask, contains living yeasts,
and is served at room temperature from a hand-pump (not CO2 pressure).
It is brewed only from grain malt, with no added sugars, and however
drunk you get, it causes no hang-over.
Keep on brewing!
Geoff Bagley.
Malvern, Worcs. UK.
------------------------------
From: Dave Broughton - PICCO <dave@picco.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 96 16:18:23 PDT
Subject: RE: "Tapping" a fridge
I just used a hole saw to drill holes in my fridge, it cuts through the
metal fiberglass and plastic in about 10 seconds. I found that Sears
has about the best selection of sizes.
dlb
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| David Broughton (206)927-6910 x30 |
| Puyallup Integrated Circuit Company (206)927-6673 Fax |
| 33838 Pacific Hwy S., Suite 211 dave@picco.com |
| Federal Way, WA 98003 http://www.picco.com |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
------------------------------
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 23:14:28 -0500
Subject: 6 pack
>From: KennyEddy@aol.com
>Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 13:18:48 -0400
>Subject: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack
>
>If you had to assemble a six-pack of beer to give to a "beer is beer" type
>person, which six would it be?
I'll try.
1)First I would suggest a wheat beer, Spaten Franziskaner Hefe-Weizen
2)Surely a Guinness Extra Stout
3)Pilsener Urquell, the quintessential Pilsener.
4)Sierra Nevada Pale Ale - yum
5)Fischer Amber Ale - just to show that you can even sell piss.
6)Last and least, a Bud Lite, to turn on the lights.
Ron
------------------------------
From: beerdogs@cyclops.dcache.net (beerdogs)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 00:30:10 -0500
Subject: sixpack conversions
ken schwartz writes
[[[If you had to assemble a six-pack of beer to give to a "beer is beer" type
person, which six would it be?]]]
i live in an beer wasteland and work at the local brewery so i think about
such a scenario all the time. if i had only one six pack to give, i would
give a six pack of great lakes pale ale. i had no interest in beer styles
until i had that beer and from what i have heard, many share the same
experience. its seems that, as ironic as it may be, the first thing a beer
drinker grabs onto is a big hop. malt is great and yeast tricks are
wonderful too, however, for conversion of the average beer drinker, hops
are usually the key and are what GL's Burning River Pale Ale has in spades
(no i am not affiliated with the brewery).
you ask, you got it,
that's just my opinion.
cheers,
Sara&Rod
***blessed is the woman who gives birth to a brewer***
-inscription outside of Pilsner Urquel, Czechoslovokia
------------------------------
From: steg@postoffice.ptd.net
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 00:53:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubsribe steg@prolog.net
unsubsribe steg@prolog.net
------------------------------
From: John Bell <paradise@compcom.com.au>
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 18:02:08 +1000
Subject: aeration, & "choreboys"
Hi to all. Some queries re the current threads on aeration and malts etc
1 Re aerating and the concern about sanitising airstones: I understand
that wort coming out of the boil will have minimal dissolved O2 and the
necessity for yeast to have adequate available O2 at the generation stage.
However, how much is enough? Does all this aeration of the wort have any
downside in oxidation and degradation of flavour compounds? Comparatively,
after fermentation: What is HSA? Is it worthwhile purging empty bottles with
CO2 before filling and gassing bottle headspace after filling as
winemakers do to minimise oxidation?
2 My latest brew - a pale ale using single step infusion mash, no
protein rest - is refusing to clarify. Otherwise it seems pretty much to
form. The only thing new is a new supply of malt. Looking at it, it seems
suspiciously grey and somewhat dirty looking. Any diagnoses?
3 George de Piro wrote
"A friend of mine has found that yeast cultured from Adelaide sparkling
ale is a good high-temperature performer. In fact, he's had trouble with it
getting stuck at more conventional temperatures!" My experience too, in fact
in their HB kits they used to warn to keep fermentation temp at about 25 C
(? 77 F)! Last time I drank this (excellent) beer I was struck by the very
estery character at room temp.
4 Thanks, Dave Burley for recognition of us non Yanqui readers of HBD.
"Choreboys", "Cornies", "MaltMills" - all very confusing. But lots of praise
for the level of expertise often evident and general ethos of helpfulness.
Sue Armstrong & John Bell
Paradise Enough Wines
KONGWAK, SOUTH GIPPSLAND
VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA
------------------------------
From: Tom Lombardo <favt3tl@rvcux1.RVC.CC.IL.US>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 06:20:05 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: The un-believer's Six-Pack
Ken Schwartz wants to assemble a six-pack to undo the "beer is beer"
mentality. Here's my input:
1. Start with a Pilsner Urquell. Since "budmilloors" claims to be
American Pilsner, show them what the original pilsner is like.
2. An IPA, perhaps a Sierra Nevada or Oregon IPA as an example of a light,
hoppy ale.
3. A stout, Guinness of course, to demonstrate a dark, malty style.
4. An Octoberfest. Medium body, very malty, lightly hopped. I sampled
a few after my question last week, and I vote for Paulaner.
5. A Weizen, as an example of a cloudy, yeasty style. (I'm not fond of
weizens, so I'll leave the brand decision to you.)
6. A fruit beer. Again, not a style I like much, so I won't recommend a
brand.
If anyone samples each of the above and still says "beer is beer", then
their taste buds are dead!
Good question Ken! I'll bet we'll see some interesting responses.
Tom in Rockford IL
************************************************
American beer is like making love in a boat...
They're both fucking close to water!
Monty Python
Tom Lombardo (favt3tl@rvcux1.RVC.CC.IL.US)
************************************************
------------------------------
From: "Robert Petersen" <StoneRidgeFarm@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 02:22:12 UT
Subject: Subject: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack
I'd be very careful on this one. Even 6 ounces can be too much. I've had
non-brewers over on several occasions at which I've "gone for the home run" by
putting out my favorite "very bitter", or my pride and joy "raspberry wheat"
or our first pumpkin ale.
Some were polite, but often, they just weren't ready for the plunge. I've had
better feedback on a run-of-the-mill blueberry wheat kit that has only the
barest hint of fruit. At my favorite local brewry (Mill City Brewhouse,
Lowell MA), they offer a sampler of 8 small glasses of a wide variety of
types; actually Martha's Exchange in Nashua NH does this too. This makes
sense I think, because they don't have to put down 12 ounces of something they
don't like, they get a much greater variety, and don't wind up pouring it down
the potted plants.
A recent beer-tasting class my beer club attended used the same approach.
- ------- Wine is for Peasants ---------
StoneRidgeFarm
------------------------------
From: TPuskar@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 09:49:50 -0400
Subject: Beer is Beer six pack
Ken Schwartz asked for recommendations for a Beer is Beer sampler 6 pack for
those folks who don't realize that beer comes in styles other than those the
megas produce. I'll take a stab at this collection. I recommend the
following: (actual brand is less importnat than the mixture of styles)
IPA--the hoppier the better
Amber ale
Pilsner (German style)
Weisen
Bock
Cream or oatmeal Stout
Its a tough choice of what to include, but those above will certainly span
the range of styles. Also considered were: Marzen, Raspberry wheat, Porter
and Brown ale.
I wish someone would send me a six pack of these--and I've made them all so
far!
I'll be looking for others comments.
Tom Puskar
------------------------------
From: "Robert Petersen" <StoneRidgeFarm@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 13:53:20 UT
Subject: hops and dogs
From: bob rogers <bob@carol.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 23:07:20 -0400
Subject: hops and dogs
i know spent hops are very dangerous for dogs.
does anybody _know_ if growing hops are bad for dogs?
and/or
would dogs even eat them?
i want to know, because i have some rizomes in the fridge i want to plant on
the back fence, but i would much rather throw them away if max might get
sick or die.
bob- brewing in the heart of the bible belt.
bob rogers bob@carol.net
We have 3 Newfies, one a puppy. I have 2 large hop hills, one right in the
middle of their territory. Spouse and I are very concerned and have been
watching carefully, especially since Phoebe (the bitch) dug up my asparagus
roots (look a lot like rhizomes don't they?) 2 years ago. So far, no
interest.
My guess is that spent hops have the grain flavor, sometimes suggary/malt that
freshhops don't have. Our dogs love the horse grain and will steal it if they
can. So far, they have made no attempt to steal hops off the vine.
I'd welcome the experience of others.
StoneRidgeFarm@msn.com
- ----- Wine is for Peasants -----
------------------------------
From: Kirk R Fleming <flemingk@usa.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 10:06:50 -0600
Subject: False Bottom Selection
In #2214 Tom Neary (thomas.neary@peri.com) asked about full-diameter vs =
9" diameter false bottoms for converted keg mash tuns. Although =
kbjohns@escape.com (Ken ) from PBS responded in #2216 about improved =
efficiency with the larger ones, I haven't compared extraction myself.
Extraction rates aside, the diameter that's "best" depends a bit on how =
you're heating the mash tun. If you're using an external heating =
chamber then I see no advantage (again, other than efficiency) to the =
full diameter units. If you're using direct fire, there is some =
advantage to more liquid under the false bottom, and to not having a =
thick mash in direct contact with the heated surface.
Having made these wild assertions, and having read the comments =
regarding enzyme dilution and concern over excess liquor under the false =
bottoms, I found that a bottom plate 14 3/4" in dia has the following =
advantages:
a) the vast majority of the heated keg surface is covered with liquid
b) only about 3 quarts of liquid is under the false bottom
c) the upper section of the keg can be fairly easily slotted to =
accomodate the
one-piece false bottom plate
If you get a 15" dia plate, these alleged advantages should still hold. =
If you don't want to stir your mash while heating with direct fire, then =
I'd recommend against a 9" dia. plate.
------------------------------
From: Kurt Schilling <kurt@pop.iquest.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 11:20 EST
Subject: Beer for the Un-Believers
Howdy Beirvolk:
In HBD 2216, Ken Schwartz tossed out a thread on beer for the un-believers.
OK, I'll bite.
I'd make up a six pack of the following brews: Fullers ESB, Celis Wit,
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Pauliner Oktoberfest, Warsteiner Lager, and Guinness
Pub Draught (so what if it's in a can?). I think that these (IMHO) are all
good examples of beer as it should be, all different and all quality. YMMV,
of course.
Cheers!
Kurt Schilling e-mail: kurt@iquest.net
Kurt
------------------------------
From: Annetmark@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 14:35:20 -0400
Subject: Harvest Festival English Ale
Friends -
My wife and I just returned from a two week vacation to France, with a 3 day
stop in London on the way home. I know, I know - its a tough job but
somebody had to do it. The beer situation in France is limited - they do have
a few decent commercial lagers- Kronenbourg, Fischer, Kanterbrau Gold, 1664,
etc. - but nothing to get excited about. I guess we can cut them a little
slack though, because they sure know how to make good wine! The situation in
England was very different. Those folks are seriously into beer.
Unfortunately, I was just there for a few days. Not nearly long enough, but I
managed to find an outstanding British brewpub. I lucked out by seeing an
article in the Financial Times, of all places. It basically dealt with the
fact that there is a major move towards consolidation in the brewing
industry. There are only four major national brewers (with 82% of the market)
and this may decline to three as Bass is trying to take over
Carlsberg-Tetley. As a side note in the article, they briefly mentioned a
recent, annual real ale competition. The winner was called Harvest Festival
from the Orange Brewery in Pimlico.
Well, I determined that Pimlico was not far from where we were staying and
decided that the Orange Brewery was definitely going to be our lunch stop
during a day of typical tourist sightseeing. Harvest Festival turned out to
be a superb Bitter. Interestingly enough, it was not a traditional English
Bitter because it was strongly hopped with Cascades (one of my favorite
hops), which would be more typical of an American Pale Ale. Apparently, the
English liked Cascades enough to make Harvest Festival this years winner.
After a great lunch on a chicken & mushroom pot pie with lots of Harvest
Festival and a sampling of their Pimlico Road Porter (also quite good), we
took a tour of the brewery. Unfortunately the brewer, John Horne, was not
there but one of bartenders gave us a great tour. The Harvest Festival ale
was brewed from the same recipe as their standard Bitter, called SW1, except
that it used Cascade hops in place of the Kent Goldings they usually used.
During the tour the bartender and I discussed the article in the Times, and
the general beer situation in England. A vast majority of the pubs had been
bought up by the major brewing companies. These companies usually restricted
the beers being sold to their own brands. There were very few Free Houses,
pubs that would buy their beers from various different distributors or
companies. Well, there has recently been a trend for the company owned pubs
to call themselves Free Houses, to get the benefit of the increased public
awareness of good beer that has been growing with the CAMRA movement.
Unfortunately, many people interested in traditional English ale feel that
the consolidation in the brewing market is a threat to good quality beer.
Much like the situation here in the US, the drive for market share means that
the brewers produce safe, less challenging beers for the lowest common
denominator of public taste.
While in London, I also managed to down a pint of Theakstons Best Bitter in
the Museum Pub, across the street from the British Museum. Apparently Karl
Marx wrote a major part of Das Kapital in that pub, at a table by the front
window. I wonder what his favorite pint was - perhaps a Red Ale? Well, any
way we had a great time, and I could keep rambling on about it for a lot
longer but Ive got an Altbier that is ready for bottling, its been sitting
in the secondary since we left on vacation, so Ill talk to you all later.
Oh, with all the above waste of bandwidth, I almost forgot to ask my
question. In France, we visited my wifes aunt, and in her basement I found
some interesting old swing-top bottles. I brought some back, but need to
replace the rubber gaskets. They are much larger than the typical Grolsch
type. The gasket is about 1 3/8 inches in diameter. Does anyone know where I
could locate some of these? TIA.
Mark Tumarkin
The Brewery in the Jungle
Miami, FL
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 11:53:31 PDT
Subject: Ph and partial mash
I am planning to do my first partial mash really soon,
I got info about my water from the city works people
(they were really happy that somebody wanted to know
about the water). The Ph of my water is 7.1, do I have
to add something to bring it down, if so what ?
or
Do i just need to change the amount of time I mash ?
Thanks, alot
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
******************************************************
------------------------------
From: "Sutton, Bob" <"bob.sutton"@fluordaniel.com>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 16:11:00 -0700
Subject: Aeration filter sanitation
Nicholas Dahl writes:
>>>When I bought my 0.22 micron inline air
filter from Heartland Hydroponics, the person
I talked to on the phone said absolutely do
NOT run water through the filter, because
liquids were too big to pass through the
hydrophobic membrane. My question is, given
the admonition I recently received, how does
one sanitize the inline filter<<<
Good question...
Without knowing the membrane material your
filter is constructed of, I can offer a few
suggestions.
If you can afford to use disposable filters,
find a supplier who offers sterile packaging
(this is quite common as the filters can
readily be gamma irradiated). If you plan to
reuse your filters then sanitizing is
recommended.
If you are reusing hydrophobic filter media,
you can insert the filter in a pressure
cooker/steamer, and expose it to boiling
vapors for 30 minutes. Allow it to fully cool
before using.
Often hydrophobic filters may be "wetted" out
with 70% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol).
After a 30-60 minute soak, the filter must be
thoroughly dried by pumping air through it.
All the usual disclaimers (safety goggles,
good ventilation, respirator, etc.). This
would NOT be my first choice.
If you can obtain hydrophilic filter media,
soak the filter in iodophor solutions in the
concentration recommended to sanitize your
brewing hardware.
Bob
Fruit Fly Brewhaus
Yesterdays' Technology Today
------------------------------
From: DownAPint@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 18:46:38 -0400
Subject: dry hopping
Hombrew Collective,
I just dry hopped my first batch. I put the pellet hopps in the secondary
last night. This morning when I went to check on the brew, a question occured
to me. Is all this stuff going to settle out in the next week (in time to
bottle)? If not will I need to rack it again so to avoid getting pelletized
hopps in my kegs? Thanks in advance.
Brent Smith
Raleigh, North Carolina
------------------------------
From: habanero@juno.com (Raymond P Kasprowicz)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 15:42:24 PST
Subject: Looking for Youngs Oatmeal Stout Recipe
I am interested in trying to home brew Youngs Oatmeal Stout. If anyone
has a recipe for it, or something reasonably close please reply to
Habanero@juno.com. I am also interested in other Oatmeal Stouts recipes.
------------------------------
From: Steve <srockey@egyptian.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 20:04:43 -0500
Subject: Making a Mead Starter
Mead makers, (and anyone else with knowledge of mead)
I have purchased honey and the ingredients to make my first batch of =
mead. I have the Wyeast #3184 Sweet Mead yeast. On the package it =
says,=20
"To make a starter, boil a pint of juice for 15 minutes and cool." =20
What kind of juice do I use? How can I be sure the juice will not have =
some preservative which will kill the yeast? I plan to make my mead =
next weekend, so any and all advice will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve Rockey
srockey@egyptian.net
------------------------------
From: Kathy Booth <kbooth@waverly.k12.mi.us>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 10:43:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: sanitation
I posted these a week or so but didn't get answers as stated.
1) Would using 1 gal of the clorine version of bleach at 1t/gal water in
a 5 or 7 gal carbouy, then swirling to wet all the surfaces every few
minutes be equivelent to filling and letting the carbouy stand full?
Opinions...facts....I understand Public health people advise 1t/gal in
dish/silverware rinse water. Full carbouys take time, heavy lifting,
uses water and chlorine and if it serves no real purpose....
2) Turning up the
home hot water heator to max gives me hot water at the tap at 152F. Does
water standing/flowing in the hot water delivery system and arriving at
152F have the relevent bugs killed so this water can be used for rinsing
items treated with bleach solutions as in question 1?
Thanks jim booth lansing, mi
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2217
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