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HOMEBREW Digest #2235
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/17 PDT
Homebrew Digest Thursday, 17 October 1996 Number 2235
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
socket for ball lock keg ((Jim Merrill - SMCC hardware))
Yeast Storage in Water ("Genito, Michael A.")
Red Dog - Quasi microbrew ((torbjorn bull-njaa))
RE: CP bottling ((Scott Abene))
Kenwood Chef Grain Mill (Bill Jackson)
Stout Yeast advice (John Penn)
Thames Valley Update ((Scott Abene))
Plastic primaries/ "Baloney" ((Dennis J. Templeton))
RE: Plaster? (AJN)
RE: Oxygen in the wort (AJN)
biodegradable packaging. ("Thomas K. Simacek")
Yeast Labs Canadian Ale (A07) ("Barry Blakeley")
re: calcium and ph ((Bill Giffin))
IPA ("Bryan L. Gros")
Chillin Thanks & What happened? (TheTHP@aol.com)
Bigger breweries and RIMS ("Braam Greyling")
Kombucha tea to beer? (Pierre Jelenc)
more govt. regulation?/cactus fruit beer (Dane Mosher)
KJ's Killer Chiller (KennyEddy@aol.com)
Re: Dateline and Gov't Brewing (John.E.Carsten@oklaosf.state.ok.us)
Source of O2 ("Bridges, Scott")
Fat Tire Amber Ale Clone - Recipe Help requested... ("Werner, Scott")
Wort oxygenation (John Wilkinson)
questions (Anton Schoenbacher)
Stout Recipe Again? (John Penn)
Way To Go Jethro!!! (mikehu@lmc.com)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jmerrill@brauhaus.East.Sun.COM (Jim Merrill - SMCC hardware)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 08:57:12 -0400
Subject: socket for ball lock keg
Does anyone know what size deep socket is required to remove the connectors
on a ball lock keg?
TIA,
- -Jim
------------------------------
From: "Genito, Michael A." <mgenito@ci.rye.ny.us>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:20:22 -0400
Subject: Yeast Storage in Water
Just a datapoint on yeast storage...
For over a year now, I've recovered yeast from slurry and saved it in
preboiled, (not distilled water) for periods up to eight months without
any problems. In fact, the stored yeast seems to start quicker and
settle out more quickly than its original Wyeast packet.
The method is simple: a day before bottling, I take three one quart
mason jars, fill them half full (half empty?) with filtered cold water.
These three jars are then placed in a brew pot, along with three canning
lids (the lids are not on the jars, just in the pot) with about two
inches of water in the pot. Place the cover on the pot, heat to boil,
and let simmer for 15 - 30 minutes. Open the pot, and with a pair of
tongs, place the lids on the jars. Tighten the lids on the jars, and
leave the jars in the pot until room temp. When you take the jars out,
the lids should have sealed themselves (just like any other canning),
and what you have is cooled, sterilized water in a sealed jar.
When bottling time arrives, siphon your beer out to a bottling bucket.
Open one jar and pour the water into the slurry. Swish this around, and
pour the watered down slurry back into the empty jar. Put the lid back
on and shake. Let it sit about 10-15 minutes, and you will see a
whitish, maybe slightly tinted liquid of yeast and water separating from
hops and other trub. Open jar #2, and pour the yeast water into jar #2.
Put the lid on and shake. Wait 10-15 min. Pour the yeast water from jar
2 into jar 3. Put the lid on and shake. Put this jar in the fridge. When
this jar settles out completely (could be 1 - 5 days), you should have
1/4 inch to 3/4 inch of whitish yeast settled on the bottom, and what
would appear to be beer as a liquid over this. Keep the jar in the
fridge and take it out before you begin to brew. The goal is to allow
the yeast in the jar to reach room temp before pitching. If you prefer
starters, all the better, just allow for the extra time.
Needless to say, its best to try to keep contaminants to a minimum any
time you open or handle the jars, slurry, or fermenter. I do this by
washing all outside surfaces with the typical bleach/water sanitizing
solution, including counter tops where a lid might happen to fall.
I also am cognizant of the fact that yeast can mutate, and what I do is
very unscientific in assuring that the same strain I started with is
what I end up with after a few uses of recovering the same yeast slurry.
However, the beer seems to start quicker, ferment with better activity,
settles out quicker, and most importantly, tastes great.
BTW, I also know this is nothing new - it is called yeast washing. The
point here is that even the most basic homebrewer can store yeast in
preboiled undistilled water and still achieve success.
------------------------------
From: tbn@merkur.sds.no (torbjorn bull-njaa)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 14:20:11 +0200
Subject: Red Dog - Quasi microbrew
Living on another continent, I have browsed rather hastily through the
submissions regarding Red Dog and wether or not it is good or brewed or
owned by whom. However, as I happened to see an article on Miller in the
latest issue of Business Week, maybe this is of interest to somebody?
The article is named Suddenly, No High Life at Miller and signed Richard
Melcher/Cary Spivak. The message is that Miller in Milwaukee are reducing
staff for the second time this year, and key brands are down sharply exept
for Lite which has a slight growth. A 1% profit drop has been forecasted.
The biggest disappointments are the heavily hyped introduction of the Red
Dog brand in late 1994 and the would-be flagship Miller in February this
year. After some brief excitement Red Dog, which was positioned as a
quasi-microbrew, is dropping like a stone. The cure for Miller seems to be a
huge new campaign for Millers Lite.
Now you know what to expect!
Torbjorn Bull-Njaa
Oslo, Norway
------------------------------
From: sabene@fcg.net (Scott Abene)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 08:30:32 -0600
Subject: RE: CP bottling
>From: Bret_Wortman@stratus.com
>Date: Wed, 16 Oct 96 19:38:39 -0400
>Subject: RE: CP bottling
>
>Chris writes:
>
>>Good Day All-
>>Kegged at 29 psi with room temp. around 68F for a CO2 saturation of
>>approx. 2.6. Going to pick up my counter-pressure filler set up
>>tomorrow. Can I fill bottles at this pressure? (Grolsch 16 oz. type) I
>>don't have the means to chill my keg, and would like to fill some bottles
>
>2. At much of anything about 32F, you're going to get foaming. Lots and
>lots of foaming. I don't know about shattered bottles, but you'll be
>dealing with more pressure than you would if the beer were chilled and
>better able to hold its CO2 in suspension.
As far as I know you should NEVER, I repeat NEVER get the pressure in a
glass bottle above 30psi.
Unless of course you want tiny (or even big) razor sharp pieces of glass
piercing parts of your body.
- -Scott "been there, done that" Abene
###############################################
# Scott Abene #
# skotrat@wwa.com #
# SKOTRAT'S HOMEBREW "BEER SLUT" WEBPAGE #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat #
# SKOTRAT'S HOMEBREW RECIPE ARCHIVE #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/recipes #
# SKOTRATS BREW RAT CHAT HOMEBREW CHAT #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat #
###############################################
------------------------------
From: Bill Jackson <bjackson@ozemail.com.au>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:57:00 +0930
Subject: Kenwood Chef Grain Mill
Has anyone had any joy using the grain mill attachment on a Kenwood Chef?? I
think some one mentioned it some time ago.
------------------------------
From: John Penn <john_penn@jhuapl.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:28:18 +0000
Subject: Stout Yeast advice
In HBD 2233 I asked for advice on a Bitter Chocolate Stout recipe and I
left off the yeast. I was going to use Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale yeast which
I have never used. Any comments on this one. I also hope to use it for
a strong scotch ale. I used Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale yeast and made a
nice scottish style ale something similar to McEwans export or Sam Adams
Scotch Ale. But I'd like to get something with more butterscotch taste
than I got with 1728 something more like McEwans Scotch Ale. I remember
reading to rack to a secondary early to increase the dicetyl for a
Scotch Ale. Any similar advice on using 1084 for the Stout and for a
later Scotch Ale. TIA.
John Penn
------------------------------
From: sabene@fcg.net (Scott Abene)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 08:48:06 -0600
Subject: Thames Valley Update
Hey all,
A few weeks ago if anyone remembers I posted asking if anyone has used and
or had problems with the new Thames Valley Wyeast.
Like I said, I had a great starter going but had a problem with the yeast
getting started in an actual batch of beer.
So anywho, here is my initial take on this yeast... I am now three batches
in on my original pack of Thames Valley (A Stout, A brown Ale & A Red Ale).
Once I got the yeast going it fermented very very well. It doesn't seem to
ferment too dry and adds a very pleasing aroma and taste to the beer. I
tapped the Stout 2 nights ago and was relieved that the yeast made a good
beer. I think the yeast would be great for a porter and will be trying that
soon.
Thanks for all the responses I got from my initial post about this yeast.
It seems that almost everyone else has had problems with this yeast and
anyone that plans to use it should expect some problems. Like I said
though, once I got this yeast going I have had no other problems with it.
I am going to try to get this one pack up to about 13 (love those prime
numbers) batches just to see if it starts to mutate and whatever and I will
keep you all posted.
Later
- -Scott "What the hell is he Babbling about Now?" Abene
###############################################
# Scott Abene #
# skotrat@wwa.com #
# SKOTRAT'S HOMEBREW "BEER SLUT" WEBPAGE #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat #
# SKOTRAT'S HOMEBREW RECIPE ARCHIVE #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/recipes #
# SKOTRATS BREW RAT CHAT HOMEBREW CHAT #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat #
###############################################
------------------------------
From: djt2@po.cwru.edu (Dennis J. Templeton)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:53:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Plastic primaries/ "Baloney"
Al writes:
>Baloney!
err... actually that is the description of what he writes.
In response to a suggestion to use a plastic primary, he writes:
>Dave writes:
>>If you are using Papazian's crazy carboy/overflow method as a primary
fermenter
>>with attached hose, dump it. The overflow hose or poorly cleaned carboy is
your
>>problem. Ferment in a bucket or plastic container (which can be cleaned
easily)
>>and rack to the carboy after a week.
>Baloney! Plastic scratches and is therefore more difficult to sanitize than
>glass. Sure the carboys can get dirty and can harbour wild yeast and
>bacteria, but a one week soak in bleach water (1 tablespoon per gallon) and
>a 1 minute scrub with a carboy brush takes off all the crud. You are the
>first person I've ever heard say that plastic is easier to deal with than
>glass. Glass is fragile and costs more, but it is far easier to sanitize
>reliably than a plastic fermenter. Don't tell me you lager in plastic too?
>Eight weeks in a plastic fermenter is sure to allow enough oxygen in to
>oxidise the alcohols to aldehydes. Yuck! Ever taste air-pumped megabrew
>beer the morning after?
Al, once again your diatribe is harmful to both common sense and the HBD.
Dave didn't say to lager in a plastic carboy, only to primary. Have you
never heard of using open fermentation for a primary? If you think this is
a brewing error, you are in disagreement with more than 80% of the world's
master brewers. If "Plastic is hard to sanitize" why do you spend a week
with bleach in your carboy? That ought to be enough to sanitize plastic
too.
I'm sure some are happy to hear your daily perspective on things, but if
you must, leave it at that... offering an alternative. No need to be
offensive, and really, there is no need to ascribe to your attackee
something that he never said in the first place.
The credibility of your brewing advice plunges IMO when your credibility as
a debater falls to such gutter tactics.
Dennis
P.S., there is no need to flood my mailbox the way you did last time I
suggested being more civil on the HBD, you are on my killfile.
------------------------------
From: AJN <neitzkea@frc.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 07:39:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Plaster?
> From: sharrington@CCGATE.HAC.COM
>
> I recently built a house, and there is a bunch of plaster left over.
> Has anyone ever made beer from plaster? Can it be mashed? Does it
> have enough enzymes or do I need to mash it with Klages? 8^)
>
Watch yourself, drinking this stuff, might get you plastered :)
------------------------------
From: AJN <neitzkea@frc.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 07:36:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Oxygen in the wort
> From: "Adam RIch, PhD" <ar@crocus.rochester.medicine.edu>
> The trub/ poor attenuation 'thread' in the magazine is also quite
> fascinateing. I will be intersted to see if it is ever resolved.
What was the "trub" artical about? I would like to know more about this
since my yeast has me doing an experiment, on how long can I keep my beer
in the primary! (almost 4 weeks now 8^O )
_________________________________________________________________________
Arnold J. Neitzke Internet Mail: neitzkea@frc.com
Product Development Engineer Voice: (810)377-7128
FANUC Robotics North America, Inc. FAX: (810)377-7363
------------------------------
From: "Thomas K. Simacek" <c22tks@icdc.delcoelect.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:08:04 -0400 (CDT)
Subject: biodegradable packaging.
I have received some computer equipment packed in tons of biodegradable
'peanuts'. They are supposedly made from corn or something similar
and nicely dissolve in water. In the spirit of the recent wave of weird
beer ingrediences - can one made a beer out of it? I guess it could be mashed
with barley malt. However I am not sure if it does not have
any added chemicals and fungicides. Maybe is it even dangerous poison?
On the other hand - what a great recycling idea! Environmentalists
should think about legislating to make it compulsory in every beer!
Tom Simacek
------------------------------
From: "Barry Blakeley" <BlakeleB@den.disa.mil>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 08:15:45 mst
Subject: Yeast Labs Canadian Ale (A07)
Hello, all!
Thanks to all of you who straightened me out about lager yeast
fermenting at ale temps. Once again I find myself in a sort of yeast
dilema. After 24 hours of vigorous fermentation using the Canadian
Ale strain at ~72^F (22^C), the whole room has that wicked sulfur
smell that I associated with the above-mentioned lager fermentation.
Is this a problem and, if so, what can I do about it?
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
"Those aliens from the 8th dimension? I'm seeing them now!"
Barry Blakeley Denver, Colorado USA
blakeleb@den.disa.mil
If I had 3 stars, my opinion would be that of the
Defense Information Systems Agency.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:21:28 cst
Subject: re: calcium and ph
Top of the morning to ye all,
Dave B replies -
Please notice I said "simple". acid rests are not that simple for some,
as they
can take some hours, depending on the water. Lactic acid is OK, but it
does not contribute to alpha amylase enzyme stability.
The pH of my water is about 6.8. An acid rest of 25-30 min will drop the
pH of the mash to 5.3. It seems simple enough to me, get the mash to
95F+/- and the pH will drop. Another 1/2 hour to have a beer.
If an acid rest works, why not lactic acid? Is the alpha amylase enzyme
stability a function of pH or calcium?
>>Dave B
What do you call "good" efficiency ( I routinely get in the 90s) and what
was
your mash temperature
<<
Mid 90's with mash temps from 149 to 154F. So even with the low enzyme
levels in the British malt it appears that pH is more important to yeild
then is calcium. Have to remember my water has only about 5ppm of
calcium.
Another question, how much calcium does malt have?
Bill
Richmond, Maine
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:37:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: IPA
Delano Dugarm <adugarm@worldbank.org> writes:
> Dave Brockington suggests in his BT article that caramel
>malts are out of place in an American IPA. I disagree, because I
>think that the caramel sweetness is a good counterpoint to the
>strong, sticky bitterness that a high hopping rate gives.
I agree with this comment. I like a bit of malt for that Wall of
Hops to stand on. The question is then does this maltiness
make it out of style?
*******
One comment on this labeling the origin of a beer thread.
If A-B or whatever convinces the public that knowing where
your brew is produced is important, then that makes brewpubs
and homebrewers come out on top. When you're looking at
the brewery while sipping your favorite IPA, you don't have
to worry about where it was made. And how far it was shipped.
What do you think Jethro?
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: TheTHP@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:46:18 -0400
Subject: Chillin Thanks & What happened?
Dart Frog Dortmunder,
Dart Frog Dortmunder,
Dart Frog Dortmunder!
Many thanks to Dave and everyone else for your advice, I love this forum! I
have a copper racking cane that i fashioned and will be using tonight for my
pumpkin ale, A extract/partial mash. Ill rack from the brewpot to the
chiller. Dave, my email thanks bounced back so included and expanded it
here, Thanks again.
Phil Wilcox.
AAAAHHHHHGGGG!! What Happened?
I feel alot like charlie brown. I had a few problems brewing last night, The
recipie is the Pumpkin Ale posted in Cats Meow. The only changes I made was
to include the extra .6 lbs of LME (premium brand) and use 1/8 tsp ground
corriander instead of seeds. All other directions were followed expressly.
I balanced my mash water to 150, added my grains (First time I used my
Corouna, That went badly too. I got alot of flour from the Pale malt. The
crystal turned out fine.) I scooped out the hot pumpkin and added that--duh
it raise the temp to 200 in a flash. Half tray of ice cubes fixed that.
Mashed at 150 for 60 min then Poured (ouch, I know) into lautertun. Sparged
with another 1.5 gal of 170 deg water. (5min)
Returned to stove and added LME. Brought up to Boil, Hopped, spiced, hopped
right on schedule. Proceeded to chill as advised and to my suprise I could'nt
get a decent siphon going at all. Only a trickle. Tried the chorboy, the
inverted racking cane stoper, Whirlpooling...Nada. Painfully slow. 15
min/gal!
Eventually gave up and carefully, gently, Cleanly went to my bucket/lauter
tun with spigot setup. Is this just better gravity? Would a racking cane of
greater than 3/8 copper tubing be better? I cant wait to buy/fashion a real
mash/lautertun. This really stinks. Beer came out at 72 deg, added extra
water sparged trough saved grain bed in a cheese cloth& Collender into a
funnel to fermenter. Temp went up to 74.
I didnt have time to make a starter from my smack pack, I cleaned it &
siccors with tsp, and rinsed with cheap vodka, pitched, stoppered shook and
carried to basement. Next major problem SG. 1.030! How? Why? I had
brewmeister for my mac till my external harddrive crashed. and now cant find
a version that isnt Bin Hexed. But from what I can figure SG. shoud be in the
050's? 6.6 lbs DME and 2 lbs of grains, a pumpkin...is a lot more than 030.
Help? Any chastizing, critism, flaming, and help is much appreciated. How bad
did i screw up my beer?
Phil Wilcox
Posion Frog Home Brewery
------------------------------
From: "Braam Greyling" <acg@knersus.nanoteq.co.za>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 17:30:21 +200
Subject: Bigger breweries and RIMS
Hi there,
I have general question about bigger breweries and RIMS or other
mashing styles.
Is it just the homebrewers that uses RIMS ? Does bigger breweries use
it as well ? If they are not using it what do they use ? Decoction
only ?What is the biggest brewery that you know that use RIMS or
infusion mashing ?
Could somebody please discuss this ?
Thanks a lot in advance
Braam Greyling I.C. Design Engineer
Nanoteq (Pty) Ltd
tel. +27 (12) 665-1338 fax +27 (12) 665-1343
- ---- 24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case ----
- ---- coincidence ????? ----
------------------------------
From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1@columbia.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 11:27:36 EDT
Subject: Kombucha tea to beer?
ken@axis.jeack.com.au (Ken Coppleman) asks
> I haven't brewed beer for 7 or 8 years (at least), but a friend gave me a
> Kombucha mushroom a little while ago, so I got out my carboy & eventually
> built the continuous fermentation up to more than 20 litres. At first my
> family like it, but eventually got sick of it, leaving me with more than 20
> litres of the stuff!
>
> So, my question is can I turn this "tea" into alcoholic beer or wine? (the
> original brew is probably about 1% or so alcohol, max).
In my quest for a controlable souring microbial activity, I have been
investigating kombucha for the past couple of months. I first trained it
(without difficulty) to grow on hopped wort. I was afraid that the
antimicrobial activity of hops would interfere with it, but that was not
the case. I then tried to get kombucha and ale yeasts (random mixture of
everything I had in the fridge) to learn to coexist.
Unfortunately so far the kombucha wins. I have lots of malt vinegar.
Pierre
------------------------------
From: Dane Mosher <dmosher@xroadstx.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 11:06:39 -0500
Subject: more govt. regulation?/cactus fruit beer
Ed Steinkamp suggested that more government regulation may be in order to
ensure that beer styles are accurately labelled. Although I understand
how frustrating it is to buy a micro-priced 6 pack and get bad beer, I
don't see how increasing government involvement will help things. Just
stop buying it, and eventually it will go away. As it is, here in Texas
Sam Adams cannot legally sell their Cream Stout because its alcohol
content is too high for the state-defined limits of a "stout". This is a
ridiculous law that is keeping good beer (IMO) out of Texas, but
unfortunately it's a typical side effect of government regulation.
If we were to change the law to instead require that in order to be
labelled a "stout", the grain bill must contain at least 10% roasted
unmalted barley, that is no improvement. Creativity will be stifled even
more, and brewers will be scared away from the business by ATF officers
looking at their recipes with guns drawn. Don't worry: Samuel Adams is
not going to have any more luck convincing us that their Summer Ale is a
Belgian Wit than Bass will have convincing us that their beer is an IPA.
And spending seven bucks every now and then to find out the hard way is
worth it when you consider the creativity in beer that we have in America.
Whew. Now for a homebrew question. I have recently picked about 20
pounds of ripe prickly pears (cactus fruits) and am ready to brew my
second annual prickly pear beer. Has anyone else out there tried a beer
with these? If so, I'd be curious to compare notes. Private e-mail is
fine.
Thanks,
Dane Mosher (dmosher@xroadstx.com)
Big Spring, Texas
------------------------------
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 12:16:39 -0400
Subject: KJ's Killer Chiller
I've posted a ZIP file containing four GIF illustrations that clearly
describe KJ's novel immersion chiller. The direct FTP URL is:
ftp://members.aol.com/kennyeddy/immersion/chillergif.zip
Download it, unzip it, and use a GIF viewer to view the four illustrations.
Basically it's four flat spirals which receive water simultaneously; thus a
larger volume of colder water passes through the chiller in a given time
interval, chilling faster. The four flat spirals are at different heights,
so each coil is responsible for a smaller portion of the wort. Water usage
would not necessarily be reduced, but it shouldn't be much greater, since
you're using more gallons per minute but for fewer minutes.
As for bobbing it up and down, would there be adequate convection in this
layout to reduce the need for mechanical agitation? Charlie S? AJ?
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
From: John.E.Carsten@oklaosf.state.ok.us
Date: 17 Oct 96 11:21:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Dateline and Gov't Brewing
Ed Steinkamp says:
"Perhaps some Government regulation is in order. If a brewery, big
or small, says their beer is a wheat beer it should have a certain
percentage of wheat in it. If somebody wants to sell an IPA, it
should not be a budmillercoors with brown food coloring in it.
Think about it, when you buy an apple pie, the law says that there
has to be some apples in it. Of course the law would have to be
written so that it would not stifle creativity. Additionally, it
could include a provision that ensures a pint of beer in a bar is
actually a pint of beer, kill two birds with one stone. I'm not
a fan of big government, but I also don't like lousy beer. I
really don't like buying something that looks like a mirco-beer
with a fancy label which promises a craft beer, but actually turn
out to be budmillercoors crap. "
As a government employee (at both the state and federal levels)
my reply would have to be a resounding NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! If you want to
encourage the brewing of good beer DO NOT let the government, at any level
have any more control over it. It will soon cease to be a craft. If you don't
want to
buy a budmilloors in a fancy label, DONT BUY IT. If you get fooled (heck,
that's a
marketer's job), remember what you drank and spread the word. A good word of
mouth
campaign will do much more to improve the quality of commercially brewed beer
than
any government regulation.
Remember, just a few years ago, microbreweries were few and far between and
their
distribution was regional at best. With the strong word of mouth campaign waged
by homebrewers and those who generally will not tolerate a budmilloor, the
trade
is growing in popularity, diversity and quality. A few years ago, the
megabreweries had such
a tight hold on the beer market, that they could produce anything they wanted,
slap a label,
or some aluminum, around it and off to the grocery store it went.
Now, with the ever increasing popularity of homebrewing, the growth of many of
Americas micro
breweries, the increasing number of brew-pubs (end even the Internet, where
people like us can
gather), the megas are suddenly on the run. Why else would you see a report
like the one that
aired last Sunday? Why else would the "big guys" even be considering trying to
brew out of
"independent microbreweries"?
Could it be that we are winning the war for good beer?
Sorry if anybody thinks I wasted their time (or space). I have two purposes
for being here ...
to brew better beer and to keep Uncle Sam away from my keg. Ed's comment
seemed to touch
on both. Thanks for listening.
John Carsten
------------------------------
From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess@mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 10:54:00 PDT
Subject: Source of O2
Since we're in the middle of this oxygenation discussion, I have a question.
While browsing the local hardware store for neat stuff I can use in
brewing, I noticed disposable canisters of oxygen (for use in welding,
similar to the canisters of propane for soldering/cooking). The canisters
contain 1.4 ounces, I believe. I didn't catch the cost per. Has anyone
considered this as source of (hopefully) cheap and easily available O2? How
many batches could this reasonably expect to cover? The top appears
threaded, like the propane canisters, so some sort of attachment could be
connected to a piece of tubing.
Scott
------------------------------
From: "Werner, Scott" <rugr@dlep1.itg.ti.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 12:20:38 -0500
Subject: Fat Tire Amber Ale Clone - Recipe Help requested...
- -- [ From: Werner, Scott * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
To the collective homebrewers in the Colorado area, I am in need of some
help with recipe formulation suggestions. The beer in question is Fat tire
Amber Ale produced by the New Belgium Brewery in Fort Collins, Colorado.
Unfortunately it is not distributed in the Texas region at this time,
fortunately however I managed to find a clone recipe for it off of a website
(http://www2.csn.net/~vsabbe/rmh_beer_page.html).
Now the main question... any suggestions, comments, anybody out there tried
successfully to reproduce Fat Tire?
Ingredients:
3.3 lbs light liquid malt
3 lbs Extra-light Laaglanders dry malt
1 lb dry Wheat malt
1 lb. 30L Crystal malt
1 oz. Cascade hops (6 HBUs) (60 minute boil)
1/2 oz. Tettnang hops (15 minute boil)
1/2 oz. Tettnang hops (5 minute boil)
#1056 American Ale Wyeast
Thanks in Advance,
Scott
- --
================================
Scott Werner
rugr@dlep1.itg.ti.com
------------------------------
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 12:39:00 -0500
Subject: Wort oxygenation
I have read the postings recently about oxygenation of wort and have read
the BT article. What I wonder is how well simply pouring the wort back and
forth between buckets aerates the wort? I think I read in HBD some time
back that this was a pretty effective method but I don't know how it
compares to other methods. I have been doing it with no problems but have
no way of knowing what my DO levels are. Has anyone tried this and measured
the resulting DO levels? I realize it is more dangerous from an infection
standpoint but would seem to be no more so than shaking, at least not with
the same levels of aeration.
Also, if pouring cooled wort onto the sediment of a previous batch, should
the wort be aerated as vigorously or at all? With the high volume of yeast
it would seem further multiplication would be unnecessary or even undesirable
but would aeration be necessary for the health of the yeast?
Thanks,
John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins@imtn.dsccc.com
------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 10:52:07 PDT
Subject: questions
I did my first all grain batch last night, everything went
better than I had planned on. Here is what I did :
1/8 # munich
1/8 # black
1/2 # crystal
6 # pale 2-row
mashed w/approx 2 gal @ approx 155 for approx 1 hr.
add hops boil 1 hr blah blah blah...
O.G. 1.062
about 2.5 gal of final wort.
I have some questions :
How does unconverted starch effect hydrometer reading, does it read
as sugar or not ?
When you do an iodine test and there is still unconverted starch
is it really obvious or subtle when it turns black ?
thankyou beery much
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
------------------------------
From: John Penn <john_penn@jhuapl.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:59:02 +0000
Subject: Stout Recipe Again?
Whoops the Irish Chocolate Stout recipe in HBD2232 that I was asking
about which was based partly on Mocha Java Stout in the Cats Meow
originally had 3 scoops of coffee to make 12 oz. of drip coffee added to
the wort just after the boil. Maybe I inadvertantly left it off the
stout recipe because my question is will it have any affect on the
flavor with 1# crystal, 1# chocolate, 1/4# black, 1/2# roasted barley,
and 1/4# cocoa? Should I use more coffee in this stout or should I just
skip it because I have so much flavor already? TIA.
John Penn
------------------------------
From: mikehu@lmc.com
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 12:06:34 PDT
Subject: Way To Go Jethro!!!
This is taken from the Real Beer Page E-mail newsletter:
A REAL BEER STORY
Two years ago this brewer rode out to the GABF 400 miles on his
motorcycle. He's paid out of his own pocket to enter his beers into
competitions, because the owners of the brewpub don't value or
understand the brewing aspect of the business. When Rob Moline of
Manhattan, Kansas' Little Apple Brewing Company called back to the
restaurant to inform them that he won a Gold Medal for best
barleywine in the U.S., he was told, "That's Groovey." Well, we love
this guy, his beer and his triumph against-all-odds attitude, so we've
created a little page for you to get to know him a little better. Help us
congratulate Rob Moline by surfing to:
http://realbeer.com/travels/lilapple
I've been blessed with the opportunity to try his "Big 12" and I must say,
it's the best Barleywine in the land. Way to go Rob - We love you man!!
(I know, I know, I can't have your Barleywine)
Mike H.
Portland, Or
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2235
****************************
