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HOMEBREW Digest #2210
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/01 PDT
Homebrew Digest Tuesday, 1 October 1996 Number 2210
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Stretching yeast (Anton Schoenbacher)
RE: Pro's homebrewing ("CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865")
RE: Pro's homebrewing (ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT)
Re: Mashout ("David R. Burley")
Re: Pale ALE malt vs Pale malt ("David R. Burley")
re: copper cleaning (Greg Pickles)
brewing plambics (Jim Liddil)
RE: Easy Masher ((Gary Eckhardt))
Re: GABF ((Ed Westemeier))
East Coast Brewers Kettle Tip (Carl Hattenburg)
RE: RYE BEERS (Joe Rolfe)
Megas at GABF (Jim Busch)
Re: Lambic WOW,French HBer/US HB suppliers,Auger beer ("David R. Burley")
Weisse Yeast? (Bill Rust)
HELP!!! Stuck Belgian Fermentation (Brad Anesi)
Maltmill, outdoor cookers (John Chang)
what to do with 25 kg ground (not crushed) malt? (Lenny Garfinkel)
Newbie Tips -- "Additives" for Improving Kit Beers (KennyEddy@aol.com)
gabf, enamel kettles ("Marc Hugentobler")
Re: Making (p)lambics (Jeremy Bergsman)
RE: Source of maltiness (John Wilkinson)
Re: controlling clove phenolics (Jeremy Bergsman)
Errors-To: bacchus@aob.org (GARY MCCARTHY)
infections, sanitizing airstones ((Jeff Sturman))
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 18:30:59 PDT
Subject: Stretching yeast
O.K. I have been brewing extract for about two years
and am pretty good at it (give or take a batch). I was
wondering if there is a relatively simple way I can
get maybe 5-10 batches of yeast out of one $5.00 wyeast
package. I have heard stuff about yeast culturing and
some of it seems to be way out in left field for me.
Does someone have simple instructions on how to do this.
Also Instructions on how to 'revive' it.
Thankyou very much.
- --
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb@eecs.wsu.edu*****
******************************************************
------------------------------
From: "CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865" <CHUDSON@mozart.unm.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 19:49:29 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: RE: Pro's homebrewing
On most of your points I would have to agree most bop's give you 13-15 gallons
of pre-made wort and let you add the rest of the items as needed. How ever
Homebrew Haven (tm) the Homebrew store and BOP that I and another partner own
you have your choice of two methods of brewing. ! a single level RIMS systems
to do all grain from scratch or a single kettle to do extracts. The homebrewer
does all the work we are there just for advice and ....well cleanup. I do not
agree on the Current BOP design. We may not have steam heated kettles but we
give the beginner to expert everything he needs to brew from scratch all grain
or extracts,not a few gallons of pre-made beer that just needs yeast tossed in.
our customers will select any recipe that they want or make up there own or if
they want they can take a couple of cans of extract off the shelf and brew with
it.
BTW We do have a policy for our customers to check with the contest officials
on if they can enter there beer and hopefully explain to them that they did
everything but wash the kettles.
Also great web page Scot keep it up!!!
Keep them airlocks bubbling!!!
Chuck
------------------------------
From: ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT <skotrat@wwa.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 20:51:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Pro's homebrewing
Chuck,
You sound like you have a great operation, however I still would say that
this is the same as contract brewing. As far as I can see if it isn't made
at home it's not homebrewing.
Thanks for the response.
- -Scott
P.S.: You have a www page for the BOP?
At 07:49 PM 9/30/96 -0600, CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865 wrote:
>On most of your points I would have to agree most bop's give you 13-15 gallons
>of pre-made wort and let you add the rest of the items as needed. How ever
>Homebrew Haven (tm) the Homebrew store and BOP that I and another partner own
>you have your choice of two methods of brewing. ! a single level RIMS systems
>to do all grain from scratch or a single kettle to do extracts. The homebrewer
>does all the work we are there just for advice and ....well cleanup. I do not
>agree on the Current BOP design. We may not have steam heated kettles but we
>give the beginner to expert everything he needs to brew from scratch all grain
>or extracts,not a few gallons of pre-made beer that just needs yeast tossed
in.
>our customers will select any recipe that they want or make up there own or if
>they want they can take a couple of cans of extract off the shelf and brew
with
>it.
>BTW We do have a policy for our customers to check with the contest officials
>on if they can enter there beer and hopefully explain to them that they did
>everything but wash the kettles.
>
>Also great web page Scot keep it up!!!
>
>Keep them airlocks bubbling!!!
>
>Chuck
>
>
>
################################################################
# ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT #
# Scott Abene <skotrat@wwa.com> #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) #
# OR #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) #
# "Get off your dead ass and brew" #
# "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" #
################################################################
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 30 Sep 96 22:14:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Mashout
Alex MacGillivray RN asks:
What does the term, "mash out", mean?
Mashout occurs at the end of the saccharification step and its purpose is to
stabilize the wort and prevent further enzymatic action and to increase the
rate
of diffusion from the grains into the sparge water. This stabilization is
achieved by bringing the wort to 167F-170F. Before sparging.
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3203@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 30 Sep 96 22:14:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Pale ALE malt vs Pale malt
Duffy Toler asks:
>Two questions for the All-Grain All-Knowers
>
> 1. What is the difference between lager malt and pale ale malt? Is a lager
> malt a generic name for Pils?
Pale Ale Malt is a British malt that is highly converted,and low in protein
and in enzymes due to its relatively higher drying temperature than pale or
lager malt
Pale Malt is a continental or american malt of which lager malt is a subset.
Lager malt is the least converted of the malts, has a higher enzyme content and
should be given a protein rest.
People are often confused by not distinguishing between Pale ALE malt and Pale
malt.
Pils is the German nickname for Pilsner style beer which originated in Plzen,
Czechoslovakia.
> 2. From reading both Miller's and Pap's books that when you brew dark
> beers, you need brewing water that is higher in pH. I never really found
> why. I assume that darker roasted specialty malts are more acidic and will
> cause the pH of the wort too low.
Yep. The roasting of the grain produces carboxylic acids of many types. These
acids are extracted upon mashing and react with the alkaline components (
mostly
bicarbonate) in the water
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3203@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: Greg Pickles <gregp@wolfenet.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 19:31:31 -0700
Subject: re: copper cleaning
The first time I used my homemade immersion chiller, I didn't
think to clean it. The beer came out tasting like sucking on a
penny! Since then I have used the old chef's trick for cleaning
copper - vinegar and salt. I just pour about a tablespoon of
salt into a small bowl and add vinegar to cover. Using a small
piece of paper towel I grab up some of the salt (which also
saturates the paper towel with vinegar) and then scrub the
chiller with it. It takes surprisingly little work to remove the
oxidation, which is really what you want to get rid of. After
working my way over the entire chiller, I give it a through
rinse with hot water. I haven't had a batch of copper penny beer
since.
You should use only white distilled vinegar - I've read that
there is some chance that wine vinegar, cider vineger, etc. may
still have some active vinegar producing organisms in them which
may result in a batch of beer vinegar instead of beer. While you
could just dip your copper in vinegar for a while, I believe it
takes a pretty low PH to actually remove the oxidation (gotta go
find that college chemistry book) and I never felt like keeping
a tub of vinegar around for the job.
Happy cleaning.
Greg Pickles
------------------------------
From: Jim Liddil <JLIDDIL@AZCC.Arizona.EDU>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 20:12:39 -0700 (MST)
Subject: brewing plambics
> From: <satterfield@gentire.com>
> Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 09:01:28 +0000
> Subject: My First Taste of Lambic: WOW!!
>
> Now of course I start thinking that I should try making lambics. My
> searching for hard data on recipes and brew techniques is not
> encouraging however. I can't find any real consensus on how to get
> started in making these beers. Information I've seen ranges from the
> don't try this at home type to "it's gonna be real expensive in time
> and technique to have any success" There seems to be far more art
> than science in brewing lambics.
Likely the strawberry stuff is a apsterized sweetened product. Not a more
traditional prodcutYou can go to www.u.arizona.edu/~jliddil and start from
there. From there go to the new lambic faq. But I am biased.
Jim
------------------------------
From: dcigary@txdirect.net (Gary Eckhardt)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 23:10:57 -0500
Subject: RE: Easy Masher
>A local fellow brewer would like to pose a question to the homebrew
>masses. He wants to put an Easy Masher in his brew kettle to filter out
>leaf hops. His dilemma involves making a connection from the Easy
>Masher spigot to his counter-flow chiller. Any helpful hints from the
>gadget crazed tinkers :) out there???
Well, for lack of anything better, and since I'm "gadgetly impared", I
decided on a low-tech solution for this problem on my counterflow chiller.
Get a piece of hose that will fit over spigot from easymasher. When the
spigot is hot (maybe boil some water in the pot), toss a hose clamp around
the hose, feed the hose up until it shapes into place, and clamp it down
around the shank of the spigot, between the valve and when the spigot turns
down. Shape the hose so that it will have an unobstructed flow from the
end of the spigot.
I've been using this setup for about 10 batches now and I haven't had any
problems. The tubing does not melt, as I usually let the pot cool for
about 10-15 minutes covered before starting the counterflow.
I'm sure that there's some type of compression/flare fitting out there
that you can replace on the easymasher, or maybe even replacing the
spigot altogether with a ball valve, but like I said, I'm "gadgetly impared".
------------------------------
From: ed.westemeier@sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 08:51:08 -0400
Subject: Re: GABF
In HBD #2209, Dave Hinkle wrote:
> I take the medals w/ a grain of salt, after all, Red Dog won this same
category
> last year! We all know Rob deserves HIS medal, 'cause it's for a REAL
> category. How long will the GABF keep this mega-brewery category sham up? Do
> they (the megas) really provide THAT much money that GABF sticks in the
> bogus-style categories geared just for them?
[soapbox mode on]
Actually, I have no problem with the categories set up for the megabreweries;
after all, many millions of beer drinkers honestly enjoy (or think they enjoy)
those products -- they deserve some recognition for their product.
I'm much more concerned that the microbreweries and brewpubs aren't getting
a fair shake at the GABF. They produce stunning beers, but I've tasted many
of them (both at the source and at the GABF) and I've very often been
appalled at the discrepancies I've noticed. Truly outstanding examples that
fail to get a medal year after year, mediocre examples that win big, etc.
While shaking my head in despair while reading the medal listings this year,
it suddenly occurred to me: the GABF no longer even uses the word "judge"
in any of their publicity. They refer to the competition as the Professional
Panel Blind Tasting (PPBT).
Based on what I've heard about the process from PPBT participants, I get the
strong impression that instead of "judging" the entries in anything even
remotely resembling the way an organized homebrew competition is run with
BJCP beer judges, the PPBT is simply a group of people who are "professionals,"
that is, they happen to be in the industry (work for a brewer or distributor,
write about beer, etc.). These "professionals" then engage in a "tasting"
(NOT "judging") of a selection of beers in a category. Their _favorites_
(what they call the "best" beers) are then awarded medals.
In fact, I believe that last year was the first time that the "tasters"
were even asked to fill out a comment card on the entries.
Now, I certainly don't expect the GABF to be exactly like a homebrew
competition. With over 1,400 beers to evaluate in two days, it wouldn't
be possible. And I know that many of the PPBT members are very well
qualified to evaluate any beer. It's just that many of them aren't.
Isn't it time the GABF made more of an effort to ensure that the people
who evaluate the entries are truly qualified to do so? All of them?
[soapbox mode off]
======================================================
Ed Westemeier E-mail: hopfen@iac.net
In wine, there is truth.
In beer, there is strength.
In water, there is bacteria.
======================================================
------------------------------
From: Carl Hattenburg <CHattenburg@Perstorp-us.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:18:15 -0400
Subject: East Coast Brewers Kettle Tip
East Coast Brewers Kettle Tip: 33qt Enameled Kettle is $23 at Lancasters
outlet mall - "Reading China" store. email if you want phone # (i'll
have to dig it up at home!)
(www) http://theweeds.smxcorp.com/carlos/carlos.html
- - Carl H.
(w) 301.680.7276; (fx) 301.236.0134; (h) 301.942.3756
(e) CHattenburg@Perstorp-us.com (e) CHatten@Erols.com
Perstorp Analytical, Inc.
Quality Control at the speed of light.....
------------------------------
From: Joe Rolfe <onbc@shore.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:15:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: RYE BEERS
iin a recent request for info on rye beers, there was an article in - i think
brewing techniques - last year on the subject.
in brews we have done, two things come to mind
loose and hot for the mash.
we have never had trouble with a runoff, unless it was runoff to fast.
typical amounts are 14 to 17 percent rye with both flaked and malted.
usually it is a little slower than an all malt but not much 15 min at most.
the malted rye is very small in size, so an adjustable mill or other device
may be needed. the flakes need not be milled. raw rye needs to be cooked
from several test brews the raw rye seemed to add more of the rye flavor
than either the flakes or malted. again you need to monitor the grist
of the malted rye.
i will say this - there is a company here on the east coast that has
rye listed in its inventory - a mass based home brew supply - leave it at
that - the rye they have is pure crap. i have used it and it is
less desirable, just frrom the raw flavor, it appears more powdered and
from talks with the original source of the stuff - was not hot rolled.
briess has some nice stuff - no connection - as does edme both malted and
flaked. i forget who source us the raw rye, but we discontinued use
due to the extra step needed to work with it. it should be available
from bakery products stores/ health food stores....
lots of luck
joe
------------------------------
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:29:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Megas at GABF
Dave rages:
<All I can say is: "Huh?"
<I take the medals w/ a grain of salt, after all, Red Dog won this same
category
<last year! We all know Rob deserves HIS medal, 'cause it's for a REAL
<category. How long will the GABF keep this mega-brewery category sham up? Do
<they (the megas) really provide THAT much money that GABF sticks in the
<bogus-style categories geared just for them?
Since over 80 million BBLs of "bogus-styled" beer is sold each year in
the US maybe its not such a leap of faith to include the megas in the
event.....So what, its not Anchor Liberty but still these remain the bulk
of the beer sold in the US.
Jim Busch
See Victory Brewing at:
http://www.victorybeer.com/
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 01 Oct 96 09:41:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Lambic WOW,French HBer/US HB suppliers,Auger beer
Brewsters:
Tom Satterfield writes -: My First Taste of Lambic: WOW!!
If they kept regular beer around for several years like they do Lambic it would
be at least as expensive.
For more Details acquire the book "Lambic" which is part of the series of
Classic Beer Style Series from Brewers Pub part of AOB. Also The Scientific
American this summer had an article on Lambics.
Jean-Xavier Guinard cautions micro brewers that they should never try to make
Lambic in the same facilities as saccharomyces-only fermented beers, since the
Brett and other yeasties and bacteria can easily take over. I extend the same
caution to you. Keep your hoses and FV and other equipment separate if you try.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
Merri asks about HB stores in US who will ship outside the US to Paris. In the
past, I have recommended "Country Wines" in Pittsburgh, PA tel 412-366-0151,
fax
412-366-9809, and http:\\www.ontv.com\pp\ctrywine\index.htm. They will ship
outside the US and I can say I have dealt with them for many years with
satisfaction. NO affiliation , etc.
Of course, just across the channel is the UK, member of the EC and supplier of
many, many fine products. Go to the library and look up home brewing and wine
making in the London telephone book.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Cory Chadwell asks how to personalize his auger beer. I wish I knew what an
Auger beer was!
First, I highly recommend that you keep the sugar use to carbonating
quantities.
Use all malt extract, either a large 3kg can or two 3# cans or one can and
dried
malt extract to give an OG greater than 1.045. Put in some finishing hops, say
cascades if you are making an American Lager, or other appropriate hops,
Goldings for Pale Ale, Fuggles for browns and stouts, Saaz or Hallertauer for
European lagers. Varying the hops and making a blend of hops will give
complexity and personalize your beer.
Cool your wort, covered, before siphoning off into the fermenter. If you use
whole leaf hops, putting an unsoaped Choreboy (copper or SS) will keep hops out
of the racking cane.
You can then move onto adding grains in a grain bag, which do not require
mashing, like a whole variety of crystals and highly roasted malts and grains.
Buy yourself a book like Charlie Papazian's New Joy of Homebrewing, or many
others.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3203@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: Bill Rust <wrust@csc.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 96 10:00 EDT
Subject: Weisse Yeast?
Top of the Morning, Brewers!
I had a wiesse at the Schlafly Brewery (the Tap Room) in St. Louis that had
a wonderful tartness that I would like to reproduce at home. Anyone got a
relatively simple way to sour this type of beer. I assume it's not the
yeast. I checked a recipe for Berliner Weisse in the Cat's Meow 3. They
used a sour mash and acidopholous capsules. Here are the comments from that
recipe...
>Many commented that the sourness was in fact different from the usual sour
mash. Different, but not necessarily better or worse. All said the beer was
clean, which is unusual for sour mashes, a good point for my technique.
>
>Most said the souring (caried out to pH 3.4) was about right on, although I
found it to be a bit too sour for my taste.
[snip]
>The only consistent criticism was a grainy flavor. This could be due to
many things. It may just be that letting the GRIST sour extracted something
nasty from the husks, etc. My fix for that problem would be to sparge, then
sour the LIQUOR with pills ONLY, no raw grain.
>
>Another souring method I'd like to use is a prolonged acid rest in the mash
(like 3--5 days at 90 F). One fellow said the best sour mashed beer he had
was made with this technique.
>
>Another guy said a brewery in Germany pitched pure Lactobacillus
Delbrueckii along with a standard ale yeast.
>
>Ingredients:
>
> 5 pounds, pale malt
> 1 pound, Munich malt
> 1 pound, barley flakes
> 2 pounds, wheat malt
> 1 ounce, Hallertauer hops (boil)
> acidopholous capsules
>
>Procedure:
>
>This was a beer soured a la Papazian, except that I added some acidopholis
capsules to the souring mash. I believe that most of the souring was due to
the bacteria in the capsules.
Now, I'm not familiar with the Papazian method, but I'm game to try a sour
mash (the beer was really tasty!) BTW, the Schlafly weisse was very fresh
and just a bit sour. Any help would be appreciated.
Skol.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
| Research has shown that good yeast growth
Bill Rust | depends on certain fats in the wort. These
Master Brewer | can be produced by yeast if well aerated,
Jack Pine Savage Brewery | but one alternative was to sling in the
http://www.i1.net/~wrust | occasional vermin. - KEITH THOMAS
---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Brad Anesi <BANESI@novell.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 07:42:50 -0600
Subject: HELP!!! Stuck Belgian Fermentation
HELP!!!
One week ago I brewed a Belgian White Ale using (started) yeast from a
bottle of Hoegarden White Ale. The fermentation kicked off very quickly
(65 F') but never got going real powerful. Yesterday I racked to
secondary and found that the gravity had only dropped from 1.053 to
1.047! Last night I shook things up pretty good - worked up a nice foamy
white head, which was gone this morning.
I've always ignored previous posts about stuck fermentations, figuring
that would never happen to me - of course not, I know what I'm doing...
Okay, so what should I do? New yeast? Yeast nutrient?
Any help is appreciated,
Brad
------------------------------
From: John Chang <75411.142@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 01 Oct 96 10:33:19 EDT
Subject: Maltmill, outdoor cookers
Thanks to all who responded to my request for advice on the JSP mill. I can't
wait to see the results!
Also....last week I saw an outdoor cooker at our local "warehouse club" that
was
designed with two ring burners, side by side. Each of these burners are rated
to put out 30,000 btu's. The $99 pricetag is very enticing, but are the btu's
on the small side?
TIA,
John
Compuserve 75411.142
------------------------------
From: Lenny Garfinkel <lenny@inter.net.il>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 16:44:25 +0200
Subject: what to do with 25 kg ground (not crushed) malt?
I bought some malt (25 kg was the minimum) from a bakery supply warehouse
last week hoping that the extract would make "good enough" beer. Boy, was I
surprised to find that the malt was not extract at all, but finely ground
malt. Its diastatic power is just fine. I tried a small scale mash and got
complete starch conversion after 60 minutes at about 65C.
Lautering and sparging with this stuff would be impossible. Any
suggestions? I can use this stuff in bread, but I use 1/2 tsp per loaf. At
this rate the malt would last over 100 years!
At least the price was cheap. The stuff cost me only $0.60/lb. That may
not be a bargain in the US, but the stuff is virtually unavailable here.
Lenny Garfinkel
Leonard Garfinkel, Ph.D.
Biotechnology General
Kiryat Weizmann
Rehovot
Israel
Tel: 972-8-9381256 (office)
972-8-9451505 (home)
FAX: 972-8-9409041
972-8-9381124
------------------------------
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 11:11:04 -0400
Subject: Newbie Tips -- "Additives" for Improving Kit Beers
Cory Chadwell says:
" First of all I would like to say that I've been reading the digest for
a while and really appreciate how the "beer elders" don't flame all us
newbee's for asking starter level questions."
Sounds like a pre-emptive strike!
" Can additives used
for more elaborate brewing techniques work for my simple brewing case,
and if so which items and when should they be added."
Perhaps the simplest "additives" that will give you greater control of your
recipe would be steeping grains and adding your own fresh hops.
Many grains can be simply steeped in the brewing water while you're waiting
for it to boil. Some worthwhile grains are: roasted grains (especially
chocolate) to add color and a roast character, crystal malts to add sweetness
and body (40L is a good all-around choice), toasted malts like Victory or
"Biscuit" (to add a "toasty" character -- roasting pale malt for 20 min at
350F makes a serviceable homemade version), and Munich and "Aromatic" malts
(for added maltiness). 1/4 to 1/2 lb of smoked malt (like Hugh Baird Peated)
will add a unique subtle smokiness without completely overpowering the brew,
but be sure that's what you want before you use it.
Place the *crushed* grains in a grain bag, tie it shut, and toss it in the
cold brewing water. When the water has heated to 150F to 160F, shut off the
heat and let it stand ~30 min or more. Remove the grain bag, letting it
drain back into the brewpot. Never let your steeping grains get much hotter
than ~160F; you'll start dissoving starches and other harsh character from
the grain itself at hotter temperatures.
With crystal and roasted malts, a simple steep is adequate for extraction of
the full character of the grain. When using grains other than crystal and
roasted, it might help to add maybe 1/2 lb or so of wheat or pale malt. This
provides enzymes that will actually "mash" the grains and help convert the
starches to fermentable sugar. This lends a more "realistic" flavor than a
simple steep. Wheat malt will also aid in head retention. Some of the
steeping malts you might use may contain some enzymes too (Munich, for
example) but it wouldn't hurt to give it a boost, especially for short (30
min) rest times.
Another "step-up" is to add fresh hops instead of using hopped extract. It's
so easy that it's kindof a wonder why anyone would bother using hopped
extract, other than perhaps the "trouble" of figuring how much to use.
Here's a simple recipe that might take you to the next level from basic "kit"
beers without much trouble, using the above tips. Sort of a copper-colored
"generic microbrew" style. Steep 1 lb crushed 40L crystal and 2 ounces
crushed chocolate malt as described above. Remove grains after 30 min of
155F steep, acheive boil, turn off heat. Add ~6 lb unhopped pale extract
syrup; regain boil. Add 1 ounce Cascade hops; boil 45 minutes. Add another
1 oz cascades and boil another 15 minutes. Use a good yeast. If you're not
ready for the expense or extra planning of a liquid yeast, try one of the
"new and improved" dry yeasts like Lavellan (I think that's the wrong name
but it's close), or ask your homebrew supplier for help. Try to keep the
fermentation temperature below 70F and definitely no more than 75F if
possible, for cleanest taste.
This really isn't any harder than brewing a simple kit yet you'll be amazed
at the improved character.
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
From: "Marc Hugentobler" <MARHUG@MDLS.USU.EDU>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:44:34 GMT+700
Subject: gabf, enamel kettles
Hey'all,
>days. Congrats Jethro!! Your barley wine was truly a work of art! Keep
>up the good work!
Absolutely true, deserving of the gold! Good job jethro!
>snip> I met five
>cool homebrewers from Utah and they came over to my house and drank
>a few beers. Look out guys, I will be showing up in Logan with a
>powerful thirst and an empty mug! BTW, my keg of Trippel blew yeast
>the next day!
dohhh! sorry but it was yummy!;-P We'll be waiting!
>have been infrequently discussed here. Is it feasible to put a spigot
>on an enamel kettle, or does the drilling process mar the enamel to such
>an extent as to make it unusable? I'd like to get into all-grain kettle
>mashing, but my poor little 4 gallon SS stock pot just won't cut it and
>.I'd like to save a little cash if at all possible.
Abzolutely! It's the easiest way to get into all-grain. Get the
Infamous easy masher(tm)(go ahead and buy the masher! you won't spend
any more money and it's made better than most things yopu can create.
Jack is also good about supporting his products.)
and a drill bit the same size(sorry I don't
remember the bit size but jack tells you in the directions) and drill
slow(so as not to bend the pot or chip too much enamel. The gasket
for the masher covers any chips you might create. Voila, you have a
jim dandy of a mashing vessel. It is a good idea to insulate it
though. I would also recommend the 8 gal. model if you can swing it.
Good luck,
Marc
:-):-):-):-):-):-):-)
Marhug@mdls.usu.edu
------------------------------
From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb@leland.stanford.edu>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 08:09:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Making (p)lambics
Once every month or so there is a question here about making
lambics. I have had the pleasure of working on a new, web-
based, lambic FAQ, which can be found at:
http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jeremybb/lambic/lambic.html
Since lambic is an appellation controlee, we call our creations
plambics (for pseudo or pure strain). plambic makers have
their own digest. Here's the header:
> Send article submissions only to: lambic@engr.colostate.edu
> Send all other administrative requests (subscribe/unsubscribe/change) to:
> lambic-request@engr.colostate.edu
> Note that the request address is not an automated server. It forwards
> to a real person who may not be able to process the request immediately.
> Subscription changes often take 2-5 days, sometimes more.
Please read the header carefully to understand how to post and subscribe.
- --
Jeremy Bergsman
mailto:jeremybb@leland.stanford.edu
http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jeremybb
------------------------------
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 11:17:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Source of maltiness
George De Piro said:
"Somebody (sorry, can't remember who) recently asked about the source
of malty taste. Melanoidins, the product of the reaction between
amino acids and simple sugars, is often claimed to be the source of
malty taste."
I may have been the person he was referring to as a week or so ago I asked
about "maltiness" as referenced in discussions of no sparge mashes. It had
been suggested by some that using the first runnings of a mash without sparging
resulted in a "maltier" beer and I wondered what the source of this "maltiness"
was. I wondered because I could not see why it would be in the first runnings
and not runnings from the sparge or why in different concentrations.
I still don't know why. Can anyone explain why wort from first runnings would
result in maltier tasting beer than wort from a sparged mash, assuming the same
OG?
I am not saying it is not so, there are a number of things about brewing that
have not been completely explained or understood but I would trust the theory
more if there was a reasonable explanation of the cause.
John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas
jwilkins@imtn.dsccc.com
------------------------------
From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb@leland.stanford.edu>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 08:30:42 -0800
Subject: Re: controlling clove phenolics
Andy Walsh makes some nice comments about controlling
(up or down) the amounts of clove phenolics in one's beer.
One thing that I have read that would affect the discussion
of accidentally obtaining them in an ale is that wheat
malt has much more of the ferrulic acid precursors than
barley malt. Therefore, if you are having trouble with
phenolics, and are adding a bit of wheat for head retention
and body, maybe you should reconsider the wheat.
I always use oatmeal instead of wheat for this body/HR
thing, and we all just read that rye malt has plenty
of ferrulic acid, so who knows about oats?
========================
I have a more fundamental question about weizens. On
the few occaisions I have had a really fresh one, the tastes
I get are bubblegum, banana, vanilla, and other fruits.
When they get older they have a kind of rubbery phenolic
that I find very objectionable. I used to think I didn't
like this style until I had a fresh one. Anyway, I never
taste clove. What are other people's experiences? Private
email please, I'll summarize.
- --
Jeremy Bergsman
mailto:jeremybb@leland.stanford.edu
http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jeremybb
------------------------------
From: GARY MCCARTHY <MCCARTHY@IOMEGA.COM>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 08:57:54 -0600
Subject: Errors-To: bacchus@aob.org
Chuck:
In HBD 2209 you wrote:
>I'm trying to postpone the purchase of a beer fridge until 97.
>Has anyone out there in brewing land tried this?
Yes, I've tried to postpone buying a beer fridge until 1997, but my
wife wanted a new fridge, so last week we went to Sears and bought
their Kenmore side-by-side, on sale for $1200, $350 off. So now I
get the old fridge to put out in the garage! If you didn't buy the
Kenmore on sale you might have to wait until 97 to get a better
deal!!
>Looking for opinions on the soundness of my reasoning.
I think your reasoning is not sound, buy a fridge. IMO.
Gary McCarthy in SLC
personal email: gmccarthy@sisna.com
work email: mccarthy@iomega.com
A submitter, but not a subscriber to the HBD
I've raised her to believe that we all will be recieved in Graceland.
Paul Simon
------------------------------
From: brewshop@coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 11:21:13 -0600
Subject: infections, sanitizing airstones
A customer of mine (Mark) recently built an aquarium pump and airstone
contraption for aerating his wort, a la Dave Miller's recommendations. He
has used it twice and both batches are horribly phenolic. I am quite
positive it is an infection problem. Mark makes terrific beer with great
consistency so these infected batches have him quite distressed. Dave
Miller recommends sanitizing the aquarium airstones but does not recommend
a specific technique for doing so. Mark soaked the stones for 24 hours in
a dilute bleach solution and then thoroughly rinsed them with boiled water.
Is this the preferred method for sanitizing these stones? Is there a
better way to sanitize them? Heat sanitation melts the plastic doohickey
on the stone. He tried isopropyl alcohol which caused the stone to crumble
into dust. Good thing they only cost 50 cents!
BTW, this is not a chlorinated water problem, nor is it tannin related.
Ferment temps on both beers were in the low 60's F with nuetral yeast.
Both yeast starters were healthy and normal. We beat it to death and
decided it had to be the stones.
TIA for any assistance,
jeff
casper, wy
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2210
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