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HOMEBREW Digest #2227
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/11 PDT
Homebrew Digest Friday, 11 October 1996 Number 2227
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
pH and Rheinheitsgebot (Jim Busch)
Water coolers (Russ Brodeur)
TINIBUW (Pat Anderson)
couscous / SN Porter yeast ((Alan P. Van Dyke))
Re: HopDevil (tgaskell@syr.lmco.com)
O.G. Calc./Pellet or Leaf Hop Finish ((Jim Phillips))
Re: Improved Wort Chiller (lheavner@tcmail.frco.com)
RE: Wyeast 3068 and Weizen (AJN)
grain mills ("Keith Royster")
Minnesota Brewfest Winners (Steven Piatz)
RE: ALT BEER ((George De Piro))
Re: Adelaide Sparkling Ale ((Jeff Renner))
Hops in fermenter... Problem solved! (Robert_Felberg_at_ASTBMOUND4@ccmailsmtp.ast.com)
Soldering Cu onto SS brewpot ("Palmer.John")
Dateline NBC ---email address ("Don Van Valkenburg")
Apples and Ale ((Dennis J. Templeton))
Re: Red Wolf (AJUNDE@ccmail.monsanto.com)
Dateline NBC (Rob Reed)
IPA's ("Gregory, Guy J.")
Heating Mash (galley@hou.sperry-sun.com)
Calcium ((Bill Giffin))
Re: Why Wy1056 ? (Steve Alexander)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 09:30:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: pH and Rheinheitsgebot
<How do German brewers, who are constrained by the Rheinheitsgebot, lower
<the pH of their mash and sparge water?
Through natural acidification via lactic acid. Larger breweries have
lactic acid fermentation tanks setup, two of em. The liquid from this
is quite acidic and a very unique taste! Others employ malt that liberates
lactic acid into the mash, saurmalz. Addition of straight acid is not
allowed by the Rheinheitsgebot. A very effective method and important
in producing light lagers without harsh mineral bites. Once you get
used to the difference it is very easy to taste a commercial micro who
makes lagers and does not correct for pH, the results are not nearly as
smooth depending on the water chemistry of the area.
Prost!
Jim Busch
See Victory Brewing at:
http://www.victorybeer.com/
------------------------------
From: Russ Brodeur <r-brodeur@ds.mc.ti.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:53:34 -0400
Subject: Water coolers
Has anyone ever tried using a water chiller to dispense beer from a
carboy?? Obviously it would be on the flat side, but this might be OK
for an English-style bitter or other ale. Also, this would certainly
require rapid consumption as well since the beer would get quickly
aerated and oxidized. I imagine it would be relatively simple to rig up
a CO2 system to dislace the beer at a couple pounds of pressure rather
than lettin air glug in, tho.
I'm not actually thinking of trying this. I don't even have a water
cooler. The idea came to me over a water cooler discussion at work "I
wish the cold side served beer". Hmm, I suppose it could, but it might
not be very good.
TTFN
Russ Brodeur in Franklin, MA
------------------------------
From: Pat Anderson <pata@aa.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 00:54:28 -0700
Subject: TINIBUW
Take a look at a little Windoze IBU calculator program I put together called
TINIBUW. It is in the program section at the Brewery
(http://alpha.rollanet.org). Nothing fancy, but you don't have to fire up
your recipe formulator and invent a fake recipe just to calculate the IBUs
of that arcane hopping schedule you have been thinking about...It is based
on Glenn Tinseth's utilization numbers, and loosely derived from Dave
Draper's TINIBU for DOS. Public domain, enjoy!
- ---
Pat Anderson <pata@aa.net>
------------------------------
From: alan@mail.utexas.edu (Alan P. Van Dyke)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:07:41 -0500
Subject: couscous / SN Porter yeast
Howdy,
In HBD 2225, Ken Sullivan asked what couscous is & if you could mash it.
It is a Morroccan pasta. Making beer from it would be akin to brewing up
spaghetti ale. I don't think it'll work.
Which reminds me; way back when, maybe a couple of years ago, someone said
that they were going to attempt to make a Cap'n Crunch Crunchberry beer.
What happened?
******
A few weeks back I asked on the HBD if Sierra Nevada Porter Yeast could be
cultured. Since I received no firm response, I went ahead and gave it a
go. I did my usual starter method, which has always worked with SN Pale
Ale, which is microwaving about a 1/4 cup of malt extract in about 12 oz of
water in a mason jar, boiling it for a couple of minutes, capping it, &
allowing to cool until room temperature. I added the yeast & waited, and
nothing happened. I was suspicious that perhaps Sierra Nevada had started
pasteurizing their beers, so I gave them a call and talked to Jennifer.
Jennifer said that whereas the Pale Ale is Krausened, the Porter isn't, &
the yeast in the bottle isn't viable. She did say the yeast in both beers
is "pretty much the same." She was also adamant that their beers a not
pasteurized.
Alan Van Dyke Austin, TX alan@mail.utexas.edu
------------------------------
From: tgaskell@syr.lmco.com
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 96 10:11:43 EDT
Subject: Re: HopDevil
HopHeads of the world, unite!
The recent thread on the IPA style and the high praise for HopDevil from
Victory Brewing, has prompted me to try my hand at a "Classic IPA," not
an IPA wannabee like Bass. I have worked out a grist bill, and the hard
water for me is a given; we sharpen knives by holding them under running
water. 8^)
My request is for hopping info for a classic IPA.
- - What sort of IBU number should I shoot for?
- - What about first wort hopping, does any one have any experience with
FWH in an IPA? Does it sound like a good plan to get the flavor up into
the excessive range?
- - Is dryhopping a requirement, should I use a hopback, or will a good
dose of steeped aroma hops do the trick?
- - Can anyone give a breakdown of of the bittering, flavor and aroma that
I should be trying to emulate?
I was planning to use EK Goldings for much of the flavor and aroma profile,
but am concerned about grassy notes that I have gotten in the past. Is
there any way to get the Goldings goodness without the grass? Or is
Fuggles the hop of choice?
It sounds as if HopDevil is being nominated for the definitive IPA (I can
forgive you for using cascades). Can you provide me with insight, Jim?
Any trade secrets that Victory is willing to part with? ;^)
Is anybody is willing to share a successful hopping schedule?
Thanks in advance for your sage advice, and no, I will not be "Dry-Oaking".
Been there, done that, dumped it.
Cheers,
Tom Gaskell tgaskell@syr.lmco.com Hog Heaven Homebrewery Clayville, NY, USA
------------------------------
From: jphillips@ravenet.com (Jim Phillips)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:20:47 -0400
Subject: O.G. Calc./Pellet or Leaf Hop Finish
Extract lurker mode turned off:
Newsgroup Collective:
I've gleaned every HBD digest (since 8/96), all the postings on r.c.b, all
nuggets of netwisdom available including the TJOHB Bible but still haven't
found answers to the following:
Q/1 Re: G.Tinseth's Excel BrewCalc template or for that matter any other
type of Original Gravity Calculation.
Taking into account 5 GA boil, grain steepage etc.
What would the Original Gravity points be for LME's like Alexander's, John
Bull, EDME etc.? FAQ file somewhere? The only Lovibond I recall ever
seeing was on my 3 pound bag of light DME (3.5). I must be missing
something because the cans don't seem to indicate any vital info. Although
I maybe an extract brewer, I find this info vital for final calculations.
Q/2 Re: Hops and the finishing factor.
In the span of a couple of months since starting this religious
experience, I have steeped hop bags in the boil, finished with hops for
their respective 2 to 5 minute window, etc. Should I be finishing with
pellets or leaf? If I throw in pellets for the last few minutes of the
boil, without straining out, than those hops will still be releasing all
their goodness when cooling down the wort which now increases IBU's. On
the other hand, the leaf will steep for 2 to 5 minutes and than I can yank
before cool down. The IBU's will be less. I think both methods will work,
I guess it depends on what defines hoppiness. Please confirm the obvious.
TIA
- --
Blues in a Bottle
Jim
jphillips@ravenet.com
Wilmington, DE
------------------------------
From: lheavner@tcmail.frco.com
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 09:25:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Improved Wort Chiller
This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the rest, you will have to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.
- --IMA.Boundary.845044711
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
>>> From: Jzdial@aol.com
It seems many folks are as concerned about wort chiller cleaning as I am.
My solution seems very simple and as such must have some serious drawbacks.
Silver solder 10-15 wraps of 1/2 " copper tubing on the outside of my 15
gallon stainless brew kettle. Run the tubing dry during the boil. Blast
cold water around the outside afterwards and have no concerns about copper
flavors or gunk in the counterflow chiller. Will silver solder bond
correctly to the stainless? Will the cooling rate be significantly slower
then with my counterflow chiller? Other concerns? <<<
1) I don't know if silver solder will work, but how much contact will you
be getting between straight sided pot and round tubing?
2) At least three things will be affecting the cooling rate.
i) No flow on the hot side which will result in a boundary layer that
will inhibit heat transfer. Stirring the kettle contents would help, just
like moving your immersion cooler around in the pot, but of course you risk
HSA.
ii) Thermal conductivity - instead of passing heat through the entire
surface of thin copper tubing, you are now having to pass heat through the
pot, then through the solder, and then through the limited copper surface
that is in contact with the solder.
iii) assuming that your water is cooler than than the room air, you
could be wasting some of the cooling capacity. This is probably minor and
could be eliminated with sufficient insulation around the outside of the
whole unit.
I just started doing full boils and cooling with an immersion chiller. If
you're not into RIMS, immersion seems the way to go. Virtually no muss, no
fuss, easy to clean and store, easy to sanitize, and I can continue putting
my pennies in my kids' piggy banks.
Cheers,
Lou Heavner
<lheavner@frmail.frco.com>
- --IMA.Boundary.845044711--
------------------------------
From: AJN <neitzkea@frc.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 09:55:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Wyeast 3068 and Weizen
>From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
> The weird thing is, the batch aerated only at pitching took off like a
> banshee, while the "over" aerated batch is plodding along in a pretty
> subdued fashion! The only thing I can attribute this to is that the
> second fermenter (the volcanic one) was filled with the second half of
> my kettle runnings. Because I remove hot break by whirlpooling it is
> possible that more trub got sucked out into the second fermenter.
Wow, I was just going to post an observation I have on the brews I have done.
Basically, out of the 5 batches I have done, only two I have added hops
to them (all hopped extract).
The first batch I made (no hops added) did not ever go to high krausen,
it was fermented at 58F (yes, now I know this was too low, but it *was*
my first batch).
The second was a Australian (no hops added), OG was 1.036, fermented at 72F
and it actually made it out the blow out tube, but not tremendous.
The third, and ESB, 2.5 oz (cascades) OG was 1.024, fermented at 70F just
about blew the top off! Lost about 2 quarts on that one, the trub in the
bottom was very large.
The forth was a remake of the second batch, fermented at 68F, a little
less active.
The one in the fermenter right now is a wheat, about 1 oz of hautauer(sp),
OG was 1.036, fermenting at 65F, this one has a low krausen (I'm doing
this one cooler, so I don't loose so much)
Anybody else, relate trub to krausen?
BTW, this wheat is driving me crazy, it is going on the third week of
fermentation, I wanted to be drinking it by now! :)
_________________________________________________________________________
Arnold J. Neitzke Internet Mail: neitzkea@frc.com
Brighton, Mi
------------------------------
From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster@pex.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:55:33 -0500
Subject: grain mills
A recent thread has cropped up about grain mills and most of the
responses so far have basically said that you can make good beer with
just about any mill. While this may very well be true, I would like
to point out that the end result (good beer) doesn't necessarily
justify the means. There have been a few published attempts at
testing the ease of use and the speed of through-put on many of the
popular mills. While I don't remember the final results of the test,
I do remember that there were significant differences. My own
personal experience has been limited to the Glatt and the MaltMill,
and I can say that the effort required to turn the crank is MUCH less
for the MaltMill. The speed of through-put was also vastly better on
the MaltMill in my experience. My point is not to sell you on the
MaltMill over the Glatt (Glatt is out of biz anyway), but to simply
point out that I would rather spend the extra money on a quality mill
that won't wear me out trying to use it.
On a similar note, another grain mill consideration is hopper size.
The less frequently I have to refill the hopper, the better (less
work, less mess). To this extent I made my own super-duper
extra-large (and cheap!) hopper for my MaltMill. I thought I would
pass on the idea:
Find or cut a scrap piece of plywood that will cover your
existing hopper. Using a hole cutter bit on your power drill
(like the one used to cut out doorknob holes) cut a hole in the
center of the plywood about 2-1/4" in diameter or larger. Find a
cheap or free plastic carboy (I just payed someone the $7 deposit
fee for theirs) and cut the bottom off. Place the plywood over
the hopper and insert the neck of your inverted plastic carboy in
the hole. Whalla! you can now mill between 30 and 40 pounds of
grain without ever having to stop and refill! Excellent for
those of you with motorized mills.
Keith Royster - Mooresville, North Carolina
"An Engineer is someone who measures it with a micrometer,
marks it with a piece of chalk, and cuts it with an ax!"
mailto:Keith.Royster@pex.net
http://dezines.com/@your.service -@your.service
http://dezines.com/@your.service/cbm -Carolina BrewMasters club page
http://dezines.com/@your.service/RIMS -My RIMS (rated COOL! by the Brewery)
------------------------------
From: Steven Piatz <piatz@cray.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:00:36 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Minnesota Brewfest Winners
MINNESOTA BREWFEST October 6, 1996 WINNERS
BEST OF SHOW - 327 total entries
English Strong (Extra Special) Bitter, Brian Johnson & David Weiler
English/Scottish Strong Ales, Barley Wine - 29 entries
1st - Barley Wine, Steve Olson & Bill Clark, Northern Ale Stars
2nd - Barley Wine, Jay A. Johnsrud, Red River Brewers
3rd - Barley Wine, Randy Thompson, Headwaters Homebrew Club
Belgian Style Specialty - 26 entries
1st - Tripel, Joe Formanek, Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots
2nd - Dubbel, Robert G. Schneider
3rd - Tripel, Ron Elshaug, Minnesota TimberWorts
Mild and Brown Ale - 22 entries
1st - American Brown, Tom Peterson & Perry Reinhardt, South Metro Wort Mongers
2nd - English Brown Ale, Mike Healy
3rd - American Brown Ale, John Denny, CRAZY
English-style Pale Ale - 19 entries
1st - IPA, Bruce Benson, Minnesota homeBrewers Association
2nd - IPA, David A. Harrington
3rd - IPA, Carl Eidbo, Prairie Homebrew Companions
English Bitter and Scottish Ale - 22 entries
1st - Strong (Extra Special) Bitter, Brian Johnson & David Weiler
2nd - Ordinary Bitter, Dennis & Kathy Colliton, Prairie Homebrew Companions
3rd - Ordinary Bitter, Jim Kickul
Porter - 22 entries
1st - Peter L. Sanders, Minnesota TimberWorts
2nd - Bruce Benson, Minnesota homeBrewers Association
3rd - Ray Taylor, Prairie Homebrew Companions
Stout - 28 entries
1st - Imperial Stout, James Gebhardt, Prairie Homebrew Companions
2nd - Classic Irish Dry Stout, Jerry & Debbie Dusich, Cloudy Town Brewers
3rd - Imperial Stout, Gene Pribula & Jim Gebhardt, Prairie Homebrew Companions
Bock - 22 entries
1st - Doppelbock, John Denny, CRAZY
2nd - Traditional Bock, Gary Westman, Prairie Homebrew Companions
3rd - Traditional Bock, Mickey & Vi Walker, Prairie Homebrew Companions
Pilsener/Munich - 16 entries
1st - German Pilsener, Mickey & Vi Walker, Prairie Homebrew Companions
2nd - Schwarzbier, Timothy Curran, Rum River Wort Hogs
3rd - German Pilsener, Duane Maki, THIRSTY
Vienna/Marzen/Oktoberfest - 20 entries
1st - Marzen/Oktoberfest, Dan La Vigne
2nd - Marzen/Oktoberfest, Ray Taylor, Prairie Homebrew Companions
3rd - Marzen/Oktoberfest, Timothy Curran, Rum River Wort Hogs
German-style Ale - 18 entries
1st - Kolsch, Carl Eidbo, Prairie Homebrew Companions
2nd - Altbier, Neil Schlegel, Minnesota homeBrewers Association
3rd - Kolsch, Richard & Kristine Bucholtz, Virtual Village Homebrew Society
German-style Wheat Beer - 20 entries
1st - Dunkleweizen, John Denny, CRAZY
2nd - Weizen, Matt Musial, Prairie Homebrew Companions
3rd - Weizen, John Denny, CRAZY
Fruit, Herb and Vegetable Beer - 25 entries
1st - Fruit Beer, Raspberry Stout, Peter Kennedy
2nd - Fruit Beer, Peach, Michael Cripe
3rd - Fruit Beer, Apricot, Neil Gudmestadt, Prairie Homebrew Companions
American-style Beer - 38 entries
1st - Pale Ale, Rob Hunter & Bob Nelson, Minnesota homeBrewers Association
2nd - Pale Ale, Carl Eidbo, Prairie Homebrew Companions
3rd - Pale Ale, Wayne Theuer, Minnesota TimberWorts
Steve Piatz
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:58:18 -0700
Subject: RE: ALT BEER
Jeff asked about what beers define Alt beer. In this country (USA),
I'm not really sure. I've had Widmer's alt, and thought it was good,
until I had some Dusseldorf Alts (Uerige, and another beginning with
"S"- sorry, my brain has gone numb...).
The alts I had from Dusseldorf are quite bitter (in fact, pretty damn
bitter), but with minimal hop flavor and no hop aroma. They are
pretty dark (darker than amber, but not quite a Dunkle), and the malt
flavors can be kind of toasty and/or kind of caramel. The hop
bitterness is definitely the main flavor in these beers.
The only other alts I can think of that you can get here are Harpoon
and Pinkus. Neither are really true to the style. The Harpoon is OK,
but the bitterness is just not high enough, and the caramel is too
much, and I've had some bottles that tasted kind of oxidized!
The Pinkus (from Germany, but not Dusseldorf) is not really an Alt at
all.
I think that it would be tough to find a true alt in this country
because it is an extreme beer, and therefore taboo to marketing
people.
Sorry I can't be more helpful! If anyone has found a good alt in the
USA, please chime in!
Have fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: nerenner@umich.edu (Jeff Renner)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:10:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Adelaide Sparkling Ale
In HBD 2226, Marshall Muller <Marshall.Muller@dsto.defence.gov.au> wrote
about Cooper's Sparkling Ale:
>I questioned by local home brew store about this
>and he said that the yeast used for bottle conditioning is not the same
>as that used for fermentation. He said they pasturise to kill of the
>yeast after fermenation and added different yeast for bottling.
This is certainly not what I have been led to believe, but I'm 12,000 miles
away from the source. How about calling or visiting the brewery and
finding out, then reporting back to use all?
BTW, YeastLab Australian Ale Yeast A01 originated from a bottle some Aussie
friends of mine hand carried back from Oz a few years ago. Dan McConnell
of YeastLab and Yeast Culture Kit Co. cultured it from the dregs after we
enjoyed the freshest Sparkling Ale in the states. It is a good performer
and, I believe, a reasonably popular seller for them.
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
------------------------------
From: Robert_Felberg_at_ASTBMOUND4@ccmailsmtp.ast.com
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 96 11:16:33 PST
Subject: Hops in fermenter... Problem solved!
Thanks to all of you who replied to my question on hops in the bottom
of my carboy. There were several responses so I'll thank all if you
here. I got my favorite answer... Don't worry!
One addition that may help out newbies when it comes to cooling the
wort. I plan on making an immersion chiller for my next batch but I
found an alternative for now...
The good old kitchen sink does a great job. I partially plugged the
drain with a plastic scrubby thing and set a little rack used for
steaming on top of the drain so the pot was level. With the drain
partially blocked, I could get a steady stream of water running around
my pot, adjusting to keep the water level steady (only overflowed
once). Fifteen minutes from a full boil, the temp was down to 90. I
was pleasantly surprised. So, as long as you have a sink big enough
for your pot. There you go!
Thanks All,
Rob Felberg / Fort Worth, TX
P.S. How many folks have been to Breckenridge Brewery in Dalls? I like
it a lot myself (Their George Forman is my favorite: Stout and
Avalanche 50/50 mix.). Any expert opinions?
------------------------------
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Date: 11 Oct 1996 09:15:43 U
Subject: Soldering Cu onto SS brewpot
Rick writes:
>Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:42:28 -0400
>Subject: Improved wort chiller hopefully.
>Rick Dial / aa8jz
>N. Muskegon, Mi.
>I have been brewing for less then a year. I have been vicariously brewing
>here on the HBD for
>about a month. It seems many folks are as concerned about wort chiller
>cleaning as I am.
>My solution seems very simple and as such must have some serious drawbacks.
>Silver solder 10-15 wraps of 1/2 " copper tubing on the outside of my 15
>gallon stainless brew
>kettle. Run the tubing dry during the boil. Blast cold water around the
>outside afterwards and
>have no concerns about copper flavors or gunk in the counterflow chiller.
>Will silver solder bond correctly to the stainless?
>Will the cooling rate be significantly slower then with my counterflow
>chiller?
>Other concerns?
>tnx
There are two problems with this good idea.
1. The soldering of Copper onto Stainless works with the right liquid flux, but
you are going to need to apply A LOT of Heat to get a good joint. So much that
you will probably oxidize the hell out of the copper in spite of the flux. Can
be done, but very difficult to achieve good results.
2. The cooling area ratio to wort volume is not very good. Nominally this would
seem to be the same situation as immersion in a cold water bath, but rather
than
having the water covering the entire outside of the pot, it covering discrete
areas. The water bath method tends to become impractical once you go to full 5
gal boils unless you have a swimming pool or snowbank handy.
This is a good idea really but the scope of it would need to be increased to
become a full jacket and attaching that much copper tubing to the Stainless is
best done be Furnace Brazing where you heat the entire puppy at one time.
John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-ISS M&P
johnj@primenet.com Huntington Beach, California
Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/
------------------------------
From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <DONVANV@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 96 16:47:28 UT
Subject: Dateline NBC ---email address
If you do not like, or you feel that the upcoming story on Micro's is
inaccurate, you can let them know at:
Dateline@NBC.com
or through their web site:
WWW.NBC.com/mail.html
------------------------------
From: djt2@po.cwru.edu (Dennis J. Templeton)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 13:19:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Apples and Ale
The recent thread on "Applejack Lager" prompts me to report on a couple of
batches that I've made over the last two years. I thought the term for this
mix was "cyser" and have never been contradicted, but I could be using the
term wrong.
Both times I've brewed this mix have been very similar. I got 5 gallons of
fresh pressed cider, for which the apple mix used was unclear, but was
pretty tart. I lightly sulfited the juice immediately with about half the
recommended dose (for wine) of Campden tablets for two days. In the
meantime, I made a very pale ale at 5 gallons using Belgian pilsner malt at
an OG of about 1.5 and used about double my normal hop dose (Cascade) just
at cooling time for the aroma. I pitched a healthy starter of a Chico Ale
yeast (I think this is the same as Wyyeast 1056) and fermented in a 15
gallon primary for two days. At the peak of fermentation I added the
sulfited apple juice (I was afraid that the sulfite might slow down the
fermentation, but I've never noticed this happening; the fermentation
continues unchecked). There is a lot of debris carried to the top of the
krausen.
I have always kegged and force carbonated this brew, but since it requires
a lot of aging it might be a better candidate for bottling. The color is
extremely pale, and there is no head. I added a pound of wheat the second
time to give a better head, but that didn't work. The aroma is apples, and
I think more hops for bittering would help. The result is very dry; a less
attenuative yeast might fit some palates. It is crystal clear.
Aging is crucial here; the first batch was almost undrinkable for 3 months,
and I had two kegs occupied with this stuff for a long time. The second
batch seemd to peak around 6 months (then it was gone!). Friends who like
my ales were unimpressed, but the spouse and I like it a lot and it has
become a seasonal (winter) favorite. Some folks might like spices in this
stuff (?cardamon?) but this year I'm just going to try some more hops. I
wish I could get a real head on it, since it looks a lot like yellowish
champagne, and I'd like to accentuate the "Ale" character. BTW, I've made a
couple of straight ciders too, and the cyser 50:50 mix was much easier to
get a good result with.
Just a couple of data points...
Dennis
------------------------------
From: AJUNDE@ccmail.monsanto.com
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 12:30:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Red Wolf
Greg King Wrote:
>The bulk of the article (maybe 85% of it) describes the efforts of the A-B
>team to come up with the packaging (i.e. what do the labels look like) and a
>marketing strategy for the product. In the small section of the article that
>describes the actual product development, the main point is that the barley
>needs to be roasted in just the right way to get that red color.
>Interesting, huh?
No, not really.. Same thing with their "new original beers" like the munchner
and black and tan. All they had was some old lable pictures. Marketing did the
rest.
While I'm on the topic, can somebody tell me the *real* relationship between
Red
Hook and AB?
| Allen Underdown - ajunde@ccmail.monsanto.com |
| ITSS WAN Group - Monsanto World Headquarters - St. Louis, MO |
| Homebrewing in the Shadow of the Mighty AB, the |
| inventors of the Clidesdale Water Filtration System |
------------------------------
From: Rob Reed <rhreed@icdc.delcoelect.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 12:30:51 -0400 (CDT)
Subject: Dateline NBC
Dave writes:
> Jeff in Casper, Wyoming asked about the Dateline NBC story:
>
> The ad blurb goes something like "microbrews are really popular these days,
> but before you drink them you should see our story" (seriously
> paraphrased)
>
> My bet is it will be focused on the fake micros from budmilloors et al.,
> but we'll see. The ad gives no details about the story.
I'm sure it will be a very "informative" broadcast.
Aren't these the same guys who did the hatchet job on the '70s vintage
GM full size truck? As I remember, the outfit that did the testing
attached a solid rocket motor to the outside of the gas tank to insure
that a fire started in the event of leakage. Very "scientific".
I think if they would have placed the ignitor inside gas tank, they
would have had more consistent ignition in their "experiment"
Cheers,
Rob Reed
------------------------------
From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461@ecy.wa.gov>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 96 10:24:00 PDT
Subject: IPA's
re: the recent IPA thread.
OK, so Bass isn't actually an IPA, but I like it. I have driven, in the
late 70's or early 80's, about 60 miles to have one from a tap, and pay the
princely sum of 2.50 per pint at the time for the pleasure....
Not being a beer judge, how about Ballard Bitter? It's hoppy, a pleasant
color, and mighty good. Also, on my personal regional bias, I find Grant's
IPA dandy as well. How do these beers stack up to the standard?
GuyG4@aol.com
Guy Gregory
Lightning Ck. Home Brewing
------------------------------
From: galley@hou.sperry-sun.com
Date:
Subject: Heating Mash
=20
Chas Capwell said:
=20
>Also, I've been musing on this for a few weeks now following=
=20
>some posts a couple of weeks ago about circulating heated wa=
ter=20
>through a copper coil in the mash to control the temp and th=
ink=20
>that this is the way I'm gonna go with it. I like this idea,=
a=20
>lot. It seems to solve the potential problems of HSA, scorch=
ed=20
>wort, etc, rather nicely.
=20
=20
I, too, plan to heat the mash with hot water circulating through=20
copper tubes in the mash. I'm interested in the collective's=20
thoughts, flames, ideas, whatever. I personally would prefer=20
circulating hot water to hot wort for several reasons, including t=
he=20
points Chas makes. The system would be simple to clean and operat=
e,=20
cheaper than a RIMS, and relatively easy to automate.
=20
I'm thinking of a three tier system (keep in mind that none of thi=
s is=20
designed, built, or bought - just dreamed of). I plan to heat the=
=20
water in my sparge vessel to near boiling and gravity feed through=
a=20
coil in the mash/lauter tun at a rate sufficient to create turbule=
nt=20
flow. This water will return to my brew kettle on the lowest tier=
=20
(gravity again) where it will be reheated to no more than the heat=
=20
capacity of the pump (+/-190=F8F). I will then pump it back up to =
the=20
sparge vessel, where it will be further heated. The idea is to ke=
ep=20
the temperature of the water as high as possible while circulating=
it.=20
With two burners running full blast and 15-20 gallons of water on =
the=20
move, I should be able to keep the temp. up there and pump a lot o=
f=20
heat into the mash.
=20
The heat transfer may not be that great, but I really don't know. =
My=20
(limited) understanding is that the efficiency increases about an=20
order of magnitude when both liquids are in turbulent flow (the ma=
sh=20
is a essentially a slurry, and should behave like a liquid in this=
=20
respect?). Since the mash will be essentially still, or have lami=
nar=20
flow at best, the heat transfer will not be that great. Stirring =
of=20
the mash will definitely be required.
=20
Possible alternative to stirring the mash: I got this idea from s=
ome=20
long lost post to HBD (author and date unknown, but as I remember =
he=20
was Australian). I'm thinking about the possibility of using a sm=
all=20
hand made electric pump to circulate the wort within the mash/laut=
er=20
tun. The idea is to use a small electric motor mounted at the top=
of=20
a tube that connects through the mash to the false bottom. Attach=
ed=20
to the motor shaft, and below the fluid level inside the tube, wou=
ld=20
be an impeller. When running, the "pump" would draw wort from bel=
ow=20
the false bottom and raise it up to a level that would allow it to=
=20
flow through holes in the tube into a manifold on top of the grain=
=20
bed. Sorry, I am too patience impaired to even attempt ascii art.
=20
Post mash-out I would add cool brew water to the sparge vessel to =
get=20
down to sparge temperature.
=20
Again, your input is both welcome and needed. TIA
=20
Tom
=20
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 13:34:01 cst
Subject: Calcium
Good afternoon all,
How much calcium is enough? George Fix states that 50-100 mg/l is about
right.
I know that calcium helps in the mashing process, provide a required
nutrient to yeast and is helpful in the flocculation of the yeast at the
end of fermentation. How much is required to meet all these
requirements?
Pilsen water has about 7 mg/l of calcium and yet they seem to manage to
make a half decent beer. ;-). Is 7 mg/l enough? Seems to me that it
must be or Czech pils couldn't be made.
Bill
------------------------------
From: Steve Alexander <stevea@clv.mcd.mot.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 14:45:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Why Wy1056 ?
Scott Murman says ...
>I think you've answered your own question on why 1056 is so popular.
No, perhaps I didn't describe the problem in enough detail.
>It's clean and robust.
I guess 'robust' must describe the yeast's growth pattern, certainly
not its flavor. Bland, neutral, flavorless, dull, insipid are the
terms I'd use for flavor. Frankly I don't choose yeast based on modest
difficulty in handling. My choice is based on contributed flavor
(which may, of course, be related to fermentation properties).
>I usually use it for porters, which I add
>all kinds of adjuncts to, and don't want to mask the flavor and/or
>aroma with the yeast.
This is a good example of when the use of Wy1056 is justified -
precisely when you don't want a yeast flavor contribution.
>It also seems to ferment well over a wide
>temperature range, and can also handle fairly high gravity brews.
I can get these properties in several yeasts.
I agree Wy1056 has a place, but I would choose this yeast for perhaps
5% or 10% of brews at most. Instead from HBD posts I would guess it's
probably the MOST popular ale yeast for HBers, and widely used in
hoppy ales where a flavor balance is usually desireable.
My question wasn't 'why is wy1056 used?', it's "why is it so very
popular?".
Steve Alexander
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2227
****************************
