Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #2224
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/10/10 PDT
Homebrew Digest Thursday, 10 October 1996 Number 2224
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Have Homebrew, Can't Travel? (RedlackC@aol.com)
Sour beer in Guiness-advice (Tjpenn@aol.com)
Sam Adams Boston Lager ("Wallinger")
Re: false bottoms/aged Barley Wines (RUSt1d?)
Re: Sour beer in Guiness-advice (RUSt1d?)
OG of Malt (mike and janet brandt)
Homebrew Shootout (theshek@rmii.com)
Leaf hops, bergamot (Kelly E Jones)
Rims Musings Part One (Charles Capwell)
RIMS musings - PART II (Charles Capwell)
5 gallon kegs ("R.Lewis")
Copy of: Cooper's Yeast & Trub (Michael Newman)
Dateline NBC on Homebrewing ("DICK KUZARA")
Re: Info on Computer Temperature Sensors ((Aesoph, Michael))
Re: Light Skunking ((Ed Westemeier))
Re: Why are copper kettles used? ("Christopher D. King")
IPAs ("O'Mahoney, Larry")
RE: Beer Filtering ((Scott Abene))
Temp Sensor (Tim.Watkins@analog.com)
re: Favorite IPA ((Oliver Weatherbee))
Real Ale (John Wilkinson)
Dateline NBC (Dan Morley)
Re: Why Wy1056 ? (David Conger)
Brewing chicha ("Scott Kaczorowski")
Sparge water Ph ("Adam Back")
Yet another list of Beer Festivals (Carl Hattenburg)
RE: Classic American Pilsner recognized! (AJN)
X-Sender: grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu ("Bryan L. Gros")
Re: (RUSt1d?)
For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew@aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@aob.org
and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.
Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv@ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner@aob.org.
OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info@aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo@aob.org by e-mail.
COPYRIGHT:
As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: RedlackC@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:55:29 -0400
Subject: Have Homebrew, Can't Travel?
Question to any of you legal folk,
On page 204 of Marty Nachel's "Beer Across America" under homebrewing, Marty
states that "...homebrewers are required to follow three simple rules:".
Rule #2 states that "The homebrewed beer is not to leave the brewery (the
home) for any purpose other than competitions." (P.204 Nachel)
I have never heard of this part of the law. Has this ever been enforced? In
addition, what constitutes a "competition"? Does anyone out there have an
authentic copy of the law states verbatim? I'd hate to end up in court for
simply transporting some tasty malted beverage over to a friend's house.
All apologies if this has been covered before. But I have seen no mention of
this over the past year or so.
Thanks,
Chris
------------------------------
From: Tjpenn@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 22:35:19 -0400
Subject: Sour beer in Guiness-advice
I have a unique opportunity: I made a Toad-Spit Stout from the NCJHB, with
slightly more American hops. I had about a quart that would not fit in the
carboy, and I put it in another bottle. Well, the airlock didn't seat well
and I have a quart of sour beer (with moldy scum on top, but that's not
important). I am thinking of adding *3% sour beer* as Guiness is rumored to
do. Of course I will boil it well to sanitize it. Any advice here? Has
anyone done it, and what did you learn?
Thanks,
Tom Penn
Bordentown, NJ
------------------------------
From: "Wallinger" <wawa@datasync.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:52:27 -0500
Subject: Sam Adams Boston Lager
I am interested in a recipe to replicate Sam Adams Boston Lager (or,
alternatively, the Ale). Private Email preferred, in addition to a post to
the HBD.
Wade Wallinger
Pascagoula MS
participant in the Gulf Coast Brews Brothers
http://www.datasync.com/~wawa/gcbb.html
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:27:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: false bottoms/aged Barley Wines
>All depends on how you make the barley wine. I love a good Bigfoot
>when fresh and this is only a few months from brewday when released.
>Same with Dominions Millennium. If the fermentation is carried out
>with a fairly clean yeast at reasonable ale temps then I dont see
>the mandatory 6 months aging being required.
>Jim Busch
And this is yet another reason to use 1056, umleff my foot'f im my mouff,
Big Foot is made with 1056. I use it for all pales, porters and ipa's.
It gives a nice skimmable krausen to propagate to the next batch and
ferments down to 58F. I made a recent Ale Marzen with 1056 (don't flame,
me it was for my wedding and I didn't have time to lager) that came out real
nice. It fermented and cleared in seven days and went into a cold box at
32F for a month. I had some last night and the malt shines like a beacon
in night. Thanks 1056! (And Kenny Schwartz for the back and forth email
on the subject). I can't personally give all 1,056 reasons, but by
the time this thread is dead (thread's dead baby, thread's dead), i'm
sure we'll hear 'em all.
I've said it before and i'll say it again:
1056 for President, Cascade's for V.P.
John Varady
with days left as a bachelor...
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:38:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Sour beer in Guiness-advice
>important). I am thinking of adding *3% sour beer* as Guiness is rumored to
Any time you do something like this on a whim, do it on a small scale! Don't
risk your entire batch. Try it one gallon and see how it turns out. I do
this for maple beers, fruit beer or anything other beer where it is cost
prohibitive to do a full 5g, or in your case, just trying something
interesting.
Enjoy and if it turns out good, hope you kept good notes...
John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady/index.html
Boneyard Brewing Co. "The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program"
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow."
------------------------------
From: mike and janet brandt <mjbrandt@netzone.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 22:26:58 -0600
Subject: OG of Malt
Downloaded a program off web called SUDS. Has in it a place where you can
formulate your own recipes. The malts that are already listed have OG of
the malts or extracts. Question; if I was to add my own malts etc where
would I find a list of OG of Malts. This program calculates all OG of malts
and sugars and when the recipe is complete it gives you the OG of your
recipe. So if anyone has a list or a way that I could find OG of malts I
would appreciate it.
Thanks
Mike
------------------------------
From: theshek@rmii.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 96 23:32 MDT
Subject: Homebrew Shootout
The Unfermentables--Denver Area Homebrewers are hosting the Fifth Annual
Homebrew Shootout on November 1 and 2, 1996. Entry deadline is Friday,
October 25. You can get entry info or information about judging by emailing
me at the address below, or by checking out our web page at
http://members.aol.com/moreyeel/beer/index.htm
Thanks,
Mark Groshek
theshek@rmii.com
------------------------------
From: Kelly E Jones <kejones@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:06:39 -0700
Subject: Leaf hops, bergamot
Al wrote:
>To the best of my memory, I have never seen "leaf hops" in
>anything from HopUnion, Freshops, J.I.Haas or H.H.Steiner.
Excerpt from "Hop Variety Characteristics", HopUnion, USA, 1995, Page
1: "Leaf hops are the natural hop cones that have been dried and
baled".
I'm not looking any more up, 'cause this is silly. Next you'll be
telling us that "Barley wines aren't really wines at all", or, "Dry
hopping isn't really dry!" Even so, I suspect most of us will
continue to use these terms, because we know what they mean.
But, do you wanna hear MY pet peeve? People who think the term "malt" is
a synonym for "malt extract", thus forcing silly questions like "Oh,
do you mean GRAIN malt?"
Bergamot in Earl Grey: OKOKOK, I give! It's not the herb, it's
the citrus extract! But you could have fooled me, I have some
bergamot (bee-balm) in my herb garden, and the smell is a dead ringer
for the tea. And is probably easier to grow than the tree, to boot.
Kelly
Hillsboro, OR
------------------------------
From: Charles Capwell <chas@A119021.sat1.as.crl.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:37:04 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Rims Musings Part One
(I've divided this up into two article so as to save from spamming
everyone with one lengthy post)
Part One - Heating Elements, Coils, and Tuns, Oh My!
While wandering to the plumbing section of a chain home improvement store
that will remain nameless, I passed through the water heater section. I
happened to spy two different heater elements. One at 1440 watts and another
at 2000+ watts. I was wondering if anyone could provide me with info on how
long each of these takes to heat ~8 gallons of water to ~180d F?
Also, I've been musing on this for a few weeks now following some posts a
couple of weeks ago about circulating heated water through a copper coil
in the mash to control the temp and think that this is the way I'm gonna
go with it. I like this idea, a lot. It seems to solve the potential
problems of HSA, scorched wort, etc, rather nicely.
As for my mash/lauter tun and sparge tank, I think I'm going to use those
8.5 gal enamel pots. I don't foresee going over 5 gal batches in the
future. With 'em I can easily install copper piping in the sparge tank for
in and out, as well as putting an EM on the mash/lauter tun without a
great deal of hassle or outlay of cash to a welder.
If you've any input on this, feel free to email me, but I do read the HDB
regularly, too.
(In part II ask lots of questions about computerized controlling, skip if
you're not interested)
- -Chas
(chas@crl.com)
------------------------------
From: Charles Capwell <chas@A119021.sat1.as.crl.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 03:06:35 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RIMS musings - PART II
Part Two - Gizmos 'R' Us
Ok, now onto the techie stuff.
First, I was wondering about thermometers. What does a good one run? Which
are the 'good' ones? Which should I avoid? Oh, and I'm refering to
thermometers that can be used to electronically monitor the temp of the
mash. What I'm envisioning doing is using several of them in various places
around the mash tun to produce a "mean" tempature for the mash as well as
possibly some other cool things(see below). And, of course, to monitor the
sparge tank temp(I figure one should be enough for that purpose).
Next, does anyone have any recommendations for ISA cards that can handle a
bunch of inputs? Also, are there any ISA cards that can handle both input
and output? If so, what are the better ones?
Now on to the "cool things". :> I've got an old 386SX sitting around
gathering dust in my closet that I figured I could use as a controller.
Now one of the things I had thought of doing with it was to use it to
give an as accurate as possible mean temp using all kinds of nifty
formulae(I'm an EE/CS major w/ a minor in math, formulas are cool to me,
go fig :). Another idea I had was to use the various temp inputs to
allow the program to 'learn' how each batch heats, so that it can
predict how much heat to apply when and for how long. I know that this
might be stretching things a little, but if I can figure, roughly, how much
heat I loose in x amount of time, it just might work.
Also, if anyone can point me in the direction of valves usable in brewing
that are electric, it would go a long way too. :>
What I am trying for here, is to reduce my brewing to adding the grains,
striking, running a program, and mostly forgetting about it until it's time
to boil. The biggest hurdle to reaching this point, that I can see, would
be electrically controled valves that are affordable and/or reliable not
only in use, but in not sucking oxygen into the system on the wort side.
With a handful of those I can control everything from sparging to
recirculation to filling the kettle. Instead of winding up with a tiered
system, I could have it all on one level by using the pump to transfer
everything.
To conclude, I've got all kinds of nifty things I'd like to try with a
system like this, but these are(mostly) the main hurdles I face to get
to the point where I can start experimenting.
As with the last message, email response are welcome, but I also read the HBD
on a regular basis.
- -Chas
(chas@crl.com)
------------------------------
From: "R.Lewis" <brew@albany.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 07:26:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 5 gallon kegs
Hello everybody,
It's brewing time again here in upstate NY.I have an
over abundance of corny kegs,so I figure I will let
them go cheap.I have 5 gallon used coke, kegs(pin lock)
just the kegs for $15 a piece.You would need fittings
and the regulator,but you can get into the system for
maybe under $100-$120.If anyone is interested you can
e-mail me.
Thanks for your time
Randy Lewis
Randy Lewis
"If you can Boil,You can brew"
http://www.albany.net/~brew
------------------------------
From: Michael Newman <100711.2111@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 10 Oct 96 07:49:39 EDT
Subject: Copy of: Cooper's Yeast & Trub
I have read the thread on Coopers yeast with interest. I have used this yeast
successfully in the past and I recently posted the following message to UK
Homebrew:
Martin Cross reports the formation of a thin pancake-like yeast crop when using
Cooper's yeast
from a kit. I have experienced the same problem when using the yeast from
bottles of Sparkling Ale.
Conn Copas believes that this is a reaction between the yeast and trub. I am
sure that this is right.
I found that if I skimmed the pancake head as soon as it formed (sometimes this
had to be done twice) a
more normal looking yeast crop appeared in replacement. Sometimes careful
removal of the offending
layer by getting it to stick to the back of a spoon revealed a normal looking
yeast crop underneath. I usually
found Coopers yeast to do a good job and it is certainly worth trying.
One thing intrigues me about it though: in bottles of Sparkling Ale the yeast
doesn't settle at all well and the
ale certainly isn't sparkling unless you have the patience of Job but in my
homebrew it settles out like a good 'un.
Can anyone explain?
MICHAEL NEWMAN, Warminster, Wiltshire, UK
Coopers yeast also seems to be very sensitive to changes in temperature in the
18-21C range. If fermentation is sluggish try raising the temperature a little.
------------------------------
From: "DICK KUZARA" <DICK_KUZARA@itd.sterling.com>
Date: 10 Oct 1996 06:58:32 -0600
Subject: Dateline NBC on Homebrewing
Subject: Time: 6:49
OFFICE MEMO Dateline NBC on Homebrewing Date: 10/10/96
My brother called me this morning and told me that last night he saw an
advertisement for Dateline NBC (the news program). One of the taglines was
something to the effect "Before you drink home brew, you had better watch
Dateline" or some such warning. My brother didn't know what day the ad was
for but he said that Dateline is on 3 or 4 times a week. Has anyone else seen
this ad? If anyone happens to find out when that program airs please let me
know, or for that matter just post it as I'm sure most subscribers would be
interested.
I response to the above question, I believe the mentioned program is on this
Sunday evening (Oct 13). Check your local listing for time.
------------------------------
From: aesoph@ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael)
Date: 10 Oct 96 08:30:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Info on Computer Temperature Sensors
Bob:
Most of the time any temperature measurements are converted to an analog
voltage and sampled by a A/D converter. (Just ignore any terms you don't
understand.) Which means you have to have an expensive data acquisition
board to read it. I've seen serial port interfaces for just about
everything except thermocouples, but I haven't really looked. For
reference, a tilt sensor (more complex than temp sensor) with a serial
interface is about $100. The most obvious temperature sensor people are
OMEGA at (800) 826-6342. I'll send you more companies/phone numbers via
private EMail.
==================================================
Michael D. Aesoph Associate Engineer
==================================================
------------------------------
From: ed.westemeier@sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:16:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Light Skunking
jander <jander@wasatch.com> writes:
>
> the manager informed me that BOTH the windows and the
> florescent lights were "treated" at considerable expense to eliminate the
> harmful spectrums (spectra???).
>
> Okay, folks, did he lay a fast one on me?
Yes, he did.
Any light from the middle of the visible spectrum (mid-green) on up through
the ultraviolet range will produce the skunking effect. Brighter light
produces it quicker, fluorescents faster than incandescents, and direct
sunlight most rapidly of all. But unless you're using nothing but red
light (like in a photgrapher's darkroom), the light will eventually
cause the skunking reaction.
Ed
------------------------------
From: "Christopher D. King" <king1679@mars.superlink.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:06:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Why are copper kettles used?
Copper is a micro nutrient for yeast (not sure off hand what it does but
can look it up if anyone is interested. If a brewery is not using copper
(ie. those w/ steel kettles but copper clad for looks) They either have
a piece of copper at the bottom or along the way before the wort cools.
------------------------------
From: "O'Mahoney, Larry" <LLOM@chevron.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 18:58:00 CDT
Subject: IPAs
In HBD #2223, Brian asks:
Subject: Favorite IPA
"Does anyone know of any craft and
mega brews that are excellent and/or that define the style IPA? "
When I lived in the Bay Area (San Francisco, not New Jersey), I enjoyed
Pacific Coast Brewing's Columbus IPA. Very strong, VERY bitter and hoppy. I
liked it so much I brewed an extract receipe kit of their's through HopTech
in Pleasanton (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer, etc. etc. ). If
you like IPAs, try this one. I don't know about "defining" an IPA, but it
sure was good.
LarryO
------------------------------
From: sabene@fcg.net (Scott Abene)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:10:47 -0600
Subject: RE: Beer Filtering
>From: rbarnes@sdccd.cc.ca.us
>Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 16:45:31 pst
>Subject: Beer Filtering
>
> To minimize chill haze, yeast sediment and dry-hopping residue I'm
> considering filtering my beer. Procedure would be to transfer under
> pressure between 2 corny kegs with a filter in between. I have
> available a water filter with a tall, clear canister, NPT in and
> out fittings, and can purchase a variety of filter cartridges.
> My questions: 1) Will this work? It looks like a filter commercially
> available ("The Filtration Kit", pg. 52 latest Zymurgy) and I'm pretty
> sure that I can buy a .5 micron filter cartridge (like the one in the
> ad). 2) How would I clean the filter after use? Also, should it be
> stored wet or dry (full of liquid or empty)? 3) If I choose to
> naturally carbonate (keg beer before it's finished fermenting to
> carbonate, not sure I'm using the right term) can I still filter
> the carbonated beer? 4) Any advice on transfer pressure, etc.
>
> Any and all advice welcome.
> Thanks- Randy in San Diego
I purchased a water filter (from the Filter Store... Boy did I get ripped
off, paid $79 for a friggin' $19 water filter... Live and Learn friends,
Live and Learn...) two years ago with a variety of filter cartridges (you
can get the filter cartridges at any big hardware chain for about $2 a
piece, This beats the hell out of paying $39 from the Filter Store). All in
all I found that the filter worked very well with the .5 micron cartridge
on very light color and lightly hopped beers. I also noticed a big loss in
hop flavor and overall body in my brews, but as they said, the beer was
crystal clear without any sign of sediment!
I then moved up to a 5 micron filter and got most of my taste and body back
from what was I believe removed with the .5 micron filter. I have never
really had a problem with chill haze, all I wanted to do was get rid of
sediment in my bottles because at about the same time I purchased a
Melvico Counter Pressure Bottler (This thing is amazing, a good quality
piece of equipment) and was experimenting with counter pressure bottling
and thought it would be great to get absolutely no sediment.
Anywho, two years later I almost never use the filter and have moved on to
other methods of getting rid of any bottle residue.
I cleaned the filter by backwashing it between two kegs with a bleach and
water solution. This works very well to removed any residue on or in the
filter. I also would always backwash the filter before I would filter the
next batch to assure cleanliness. I always have stored my filters dry but
have friends that store them in the filter in a Co2/water environment.
I also found that I lost some carbonation when I ran carbonated beer
through the filter.
Before filtering I would get the beer down to about 29 F and transfer it
through the filter at about 32 psi. This worked very well for me, who knows
for you.
There's my two cents...
Later,
- -Scott (skotrat@wwa.com)
**********************************************
* Skotrat's Homebrew Beer Slut Webpage *
* http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat *
* Skotrat's Brew-Rat-Chat Homebrew Chat *
* http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat *
* "Get Off Your Dead Ass And Brew" *
**********************************************
------------------------------
From: Tim.Watkins@analog.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 10:11:46 EDT
Subject: Temp Sensor
Hey everybody in brewland,
I've been following a recent thread about finding a temp sensor
that can be read through the computer. I don't know if this is exactly
what you need, but it will work with a little mickey mousing. Analog
Devices, Inc. makes a part # TMP04. It is a temperature sensor. It
works over the range of -40C to +150C. The cost is under five dollars. It
delivers the temperature as an output pulse logic high, then logic low (5v
and 0v respectively). The temperature can be decoded by the ratio of the
time it remains high vs. the time it remains low. I'm sure with a little
programming, this would fit the bill. The only drawback, is that it isn't
self contained (i.e. you would have to put some wort proof insulation
around it (i.e. plastic bag) or something to prevent the contacts from
getting wet.
To take a closer look at it, visit the web site @
http://www.analog.com
I can't make the standard disclaimer, because I work here, and that is
the only way I know the stuff exists.
Tim
------------------------------
From: oliver@triton.cms.udel.edu (Oliver Weatherbee)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:23:59 -0400
Subject: re: Favorite IPA
Brian Kuhl asked about excellent and/or style defining IPA's. My vote(s) would
go to Bagwhan's Best from Bigtime Brewing out in Seattle, this beer blew
me away when I was out there in Fall of 95. Nothing even came close until a
few months ago when I went up to Victory Brewing in Downington, PA and had
their Hopdevil. Unfortunately, neither of these beers have a wide distribution
(Victory does bottle and sell locally). Tupper's Hoppocket is a distant third
to these (which is more a complement to the first two than a criticism of
Hoppocket) and is available in most mid-atlantic states. Just my 2 cents.
__________________________________________________________________
Oliver Weatherbee oliver@triton.cms.udel.edu
First State Brewers
http://triton.cms.udel.edu/~oliver/firststate/
__________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:42:32 -0500
Subject: Real Ale
Geoff writes:
>Good beer is naturally conditioned in the cask, contains living yeasts, ...
------------------------------
From: Dan Morley <morleyd@cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:43:03 -0600
Subject: Dateline NBC
From: brewshop@coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:43:43 -0600
Subject: Dateline NBC
My brother called me this morning and told me that last night he saw an
advertisement for Dateline NBC (the news program). One of the taglines was
something to the effect "Before you drink home brew, you had better watch
Dateline" or some such warning. My brother didn't know what day the ad was
for but he said that Dateline is on 3 or 4 times a week. Has anyone else
seen this ad? If anyone happens to find out when that program airs please
let me know, or for that matter just post it as I'm sure most subscribers
would be interested.
jeff
casper, wy
I too saw that tag line for a beer story on Dateline. The add that I saw said
that it would air on Sunday, October 13.
My understanding of the add was that it was a story about micro brewed beer
and that all micro beer may not be brewed by micros. ie: the megga breweries
are making micro brews (or something that resembles them) and marketing them
with no affiliation to their name.
Up here in Canada, Molsons Brewery is making Rickards Red and there is no
indication on the bottle anywhere that it is made by Molsons. It appears to
be micro brewed.
I guess we're finally starting to make an impact on the mega-brewers.
Cheers
Dan Morley
Calgary, Alberta
------------------------------
From: David Conger <dconger@hal.hscribe.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:01:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Why Wy1056 ?
>After seeing 3 queries in the last HBD regarding Wyeast Wy1056, let me
>add my question. Why is this yeast so popular ?
I was one of the three posters, so here's my answer:
I'm using 1056 with the Holiday Cheer recipe from New Complete Joy of
Homebrewing. It's brewed with ginger, cinnamon and orange peels, and I
wanted those flavors to come through. My research suggested that the Wyeast
1084 - Irish Ale yeast - would have been an excellent choice for this beer.
However, I've never brewed with spices before and by choosing a "bland"
yeast I think I'll learn more about the effect of the spices.
- ------------------------------------------
David Conger
dconger@hscribe.com
HealthScribe, Inc.
6 Export Drive
Sterling, VA 20164
(703) 444-9090
- -------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Scott Kaczorowski" <kacz@delta1>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:26:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Brewing chicha
Though it seems as if the current indigenous beer of choice is
African opaque, or sorghum, beer, I recently did something similar
that might also be of interest.
Bill Ridgely posted to the HBD about two years ago (?) regarding
another one of his beery adventures: Chicha (corn beer). Chicha is
made in South and, to a lesser extent, Central America. Unlike
African opaque beer, it is not brewed commercially, but instead
is made and served in what sound to me like wee tiny brewpubs.
An abbreviated version is also made in people's kitchens. Chicha is
consumed whilst still fermenting and so is low in alcohol. It is
often spiced and may also be served with fruit.
With Bill's help and a little patience, a friend and I recently
completed a batch. This was a very interesting and satisfying
endeavour which included growing and malting the corn used.
Every step of the process was very simple, and I highly recommend
attempting this at home. My second crop of corn is about to come in
and the results were good enough that I will be doing this again in
the near future.
To give you an idea of what we did, our recipe is as follows. For
1.5 gallons:
1.5 lbs jora (malted corn)
1 lb piloncillo (akin to brown sugar)
Spices
Mash for 90 minutes at 160F
Nottingham dry yeast
OG ~1.055
FG 1.012
We did two 1.5 gallon batches, each spiced differently (one with
curacao/coriander, the other with allspice/cinammon). We would
rather have used a higher proportion of jora, but on brewday we
discovered that our ability to determine the weight of things is
seriously imparied. Instead of the 4.5lbs we thought we had, we
found we had only 3lbs of jora.
Rather than readjust (the OG would have been more appropriate at
~1.045 in any case), we added more sugar, a course of action that
was inspired by homebrewed Weizen as much as anything else.
The result is a very tasty beverage, pretty big all the way around
on corn, and yet the flavor is quite subtle. Be warned that chicha
is at its peak 2 to 4 days after pitching while it still retains
some sweetness and body. Once the chicha ferments out, you are
left with a fairly bland beverage that reminds me of iced tea more
than anything else. If I'd been thinking (chicha lends itself
to gulping), I would have kegged the stuff on the third day after
pitching and stuck it in the fridge.
While we took the trouble to grow our own (blue) corn, I see no
reason why one could not start with good ol' yellow corn from the
grocery store (domestic 20-row?) In fact, I plan on doing this if
only to see what kind of chicha it makes.
If you're interested in more of this, the details are available
from:
http://users.deltanet.com/~kacz/chicha/chicha.htm
Scott Kaczorowski
Long Beach, CA
kacz@deltanet.com
------------------------------
From: "Adam Back" <Adam.T.Back-1@tc.umn.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 10:45:51 -0500
Subject: Sparge water Ph
If mash Ph is nicely balanced somewhere between 5.0 and 5.5 must the sparge
water Ph be adjusted from the nutural 7.0? Should sparge water Ph be as
low as the Ph of the mash? Thanks for your time and comments.
------------------------------
From: Carl Hattenburg <CHattenburg@Perstorp-us.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:03:18 -0400
Subject: Yet another list of Beer Festivals
Another list of Beer Festivals:
http://www.n-vision.com/beertravelers/festivals.html
If you know of a beer festival that you'd like to see listed here, you
may fill out the form at the bottom of the page, or send e-mail to
beertravelers@n-vision.com
- - Carlos,
(www) http://theweeds.smxcorp.com/carlos/carlos.html
Writing about beer is like dancing about architecture.
------------------------------
From: AJN <neitzkea@frc.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:29:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Classic American Pilsner recognized!
>From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
>This style is really tasty - I like it better than Reinheitsgebot
>Pilseners, and so do many others. In blind tastings, where tasters
>haven't been told about the corn (which might prejudice them), it is
>immensely popular, even with homebrewers, according to George. I just
>served some to a friend who pronounced it the best beer she had ever
>tasted. So much for the mega-breweries idea that beer has to be
>tasteless to appeal to women. I hope many of you will brew it this
>winter and enter it in competitions in 1997. You'll like it! It's a
>part of our heritage.
>
>Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
Hey Jeff
How about a recipe to go with it?
_________________________________________________________________________
Arnold J. Neitzke Internet Mail: neitzkea@frc.com
Brightom, Mi.
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:31:09 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: X-Sender: grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
>With the recent thread of a "great world class mega six pack", I got to
>thinking of what my six pack would be. I think they would all be IPA's.
>Not that I know of any that DEFINE the style. I just like bold (malt
>profile), hi-alcohol and hoppy brews. Does anyone know of any craft and
>mega brews that are excellent and/or that define the style IPA?
Dave Brockington wrote an article about American IPAs in the
latest Brewing Techniques. If you're talking about currently
available brews, are there any English IPAs? If so, do they have near
the bitterness of current American IPAs?
Dave reviews three pioneering "IPAs". Anchor's Liberty Ale was
the first one, but he says most people don't consider it an IPA. Not
enough alcohol nor enough bitterness. Grant's IPA was produced
as a historical IPA, but it didn't influence much of the industry.
Finally, SN Celebration Ale is a great hoppy beer, but Dave says it
has too much crystal malt flavor for an IPA.
A case could be made that Grant's DEFINEs the style, especially
without an alternative. Does anyone want to nominate another
beer?
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:52:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:
>A case could be made that Grant's DEFINEs the style, especially
>without an alternative. Does anyone want to nominate another
>beer?
Hard to believe but Bass Ale is an 'IPA'.
**************************
** rust1d@li.com **
** John Nicholas Varady ** <-- Now Engaged.
** Eve Courtney Hoyt **
**************************
http://www.netaxs.com/people/vectorsys/index.html
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2224
****************************
