Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report

HOMEBREW Digest #2207

eZine's profile picture
Published in 
HOMEBREW Digest
 · 8 months ago

This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU  1996/09/27 PDT 

Homebrew Digest Friday, 27 September 1996 Number 2207


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
Noonan (RUSt1d?)
Unlurking/Xmas Spices/Curacao/Longshot Ripoffs (Rob Kienle)
Foreign brewers and beer labeling (Dale Smith)
GABF Members Only Tickets (Jim Thomas)
Melanoidins, Decoction Mashing, and extracts ((Brian Pickerill))
Counter Pressure Filler - Recap (no pun intended) (Gary Eckhardt)
Beck's Oktoberfest (Aaron Sepanski)
malts/contract "imports" (korz@xnet.com)
motor loading (Larry Johnson)
grains ("Bryan L. Gros")
Hmmm. Plastic carboy? ("David E. Bentz")
Honey ("W. Scott Snyder")
malts ((BAYEROSPACE))
Spelt ((John W. Braue, III))
CAMRA Book "Brew Your Own Real Ale At Home" (Jeff Hewit)
Counter Pressure Bottle Filler (greg@chtree.com)
Too much moss?? ("Bateman, M.D.")
URL for PSC brewing stuff?? ((Robert Marshall))
Triticum spelta ((Torbjorn Bull-Njaa))
Cut off from the HBD (AJN)
Re: Hmmm. Plastic carboy? (Geoff Bagley)
Saranac FallFest Results (tgaskell@syr.lmco.com)
yeast propagation/enamel pots (Robert DeNeefe)
Software (Alex Banta)

For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew@aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@aob.org
and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.

Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv@ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner@aob.org.

OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info@aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.

ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo@aob.org by e-mail.

COPYRIGHT:
As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 12:49:21 -0700
Subject: Noonan

At Stoudts Festival last weekend I had an IPA from the Seven
Barrel Brewery that was wonderful. It tasted like an improved
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and screamed Cascades. Next to the
serving station they had an index card with the following
written down (which I took!):

Pale Perle (2/3)
Cara Cascades (1/3)
Crystal (5%)
Wheat (2%) Dry Hop with 1.5 oz Cascade/gal

O.G. 1052 IBU's : 62
F.G. 1016


My question on this is the 1.5 oz Cascades for every
gallon. This seems a little much? (Why not fill your
mouth with cascades and drink a beer through them. Kinda
like a hop back in your mouth). Can anyone tell me more
about this beer and it's formulation? It was nectar, a
well hopped ambroisa! Way to go Greg.

- --
John Varady
Boneyard Brewing Co.
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow"




------------------------------

From: Rob Kienle <rkienle@interaccess.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 11:53:16 -0500
Subject: Unlurking/Xmas Spices/Curacao/Longshot Ripoffs

Greetings, all!

So I guess it=92s time to stop lurking as I=92ve both a question and a bo=
ne
of contention that=92s been rising in my throat like so much
overcarbonated Pilsner....

First the question; I=92ve read that the use of orange peel as an additiv=
e
to a beer such as an Xmas ale is undesirable because it tends to
diminish head retention. The alternative, I recall, is to use a hit of
orange curacao instead. I can=92t remember, however, how much liquor to
use or when to add it to the beer. I assume during the secondary if not
just prior to bottling/kegging would be the best times? Though in
practice I have not found the addition of orange peel to affect head
retention to any noticeable degree (I=92ve been making an Xmas spiced ale
for three years running at least), I have noticed the orange flavor
isn=92t coming through (though the mutual inclusion of cinnamon, honey,
and ginger may have something more to do with it) and am considering the
use of the liquor instead in order to get that tinge of orange flavor
(it=92s also a pain to grate all that orange zest!).=20

Now my bone of contention. There=92s been a lot of discussion surrounding
Sam Adams=92 Longshot competition and I think it=92s noteworthy that any
homebrewer would be fortunate and talented enough to have his/her recipe
be commemorated by being taken to market by a microbrewer (and I use the
term loosely here with regard to SA). However, my own background is in
advertising and marketing and I have to point out to anyone out there
seriously considering =93giving away=94 their hard-earned recipes that
=93giving it away=94 may be a generous term to describe their participati=
on.
You basically are giving SA a marketable product and (most important of
all, since I=92m sure SA has no trouble putting together a new recipe) an
interesting marketing =93hook=94 (a brilliant one, in fact, as they=92re
capitalizing on the entrepreneurial instinct in all of us) that will
surely translate into many dollars of sales and profit for SA. In
return, you get a tee-shirt and a trip. Now is it just me or is there
something wrong with this picture?=20

Prosit!

***********************************************
Rob Kienle=20
rkienle@interaccess.com
Chicago, IL

=93A rolling stone gathers no moss.=94 --Publius Syrus, 42 B.C.
=93Running beer gathers no foam.=94 --Victor Hugo, 1862

***********************************************

------------------------------

From: Dale Smith <des@io.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 11:48:43 -0500
Subject: Foreign brewers and beer labeling

Jeff wrote
>From what I have been able to gather, beer is labeled according to >alcohol
content so that anything with 6% alcohol or less must be >labeled Beer and
anything above 6% must be labeled Malt Liquor.

I don't know about Wyoming but In Texas the magic number is 4%. Cleis
brews there golden, and bock to be 3.9 for just this reason. Most
domestics are in the 3.5 to 3.9 range. Most lights are 3.0 to 3.5. Those
ice beers are 5.0 for light and 5.5 to 6% for regular ice. If you look
closely you will notice that nowhere on the can does ice beer say
"beer". Not that it matters much.
As for foreign brewers brewing over here, there are only a few that I'm
aware of. The US has trade agreements with Canada and therefore we brew
theirs and they brew ours. Molsen, Labbat and spring brew Bud, Miller
and Coors up there. We do the same down here. Lowenbrough (sp? ) is
brewed in Fort Worth. I doubt seriously if you'll find a Fullers or
Guinness brewed over here. Most imports say "imported by xxxx" unless
they are contract brewed over here. Speaking of Celis, anyone tried the
new
CELIS DUBBEL ALE. Very nice! Really warms you up. I toured the brewery
a couple of weeks ago and was amazed to find that they used basically
the same ingredients that we home brewers use. Breiss malt, hop pellets
and plain old Austin tap water. Just goes to show you don't it.

Dale

------------------------------

From: Jim Thomas <jim.thomas@telops.gte.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 13:39:30 -0500
Subject: GABF Members Only Tickets

For the collective:

Anybody know if "members only tasting" tickets will be available at
the door on Saturday??

TIA,

Jim

------------------------------

From: 00bkpickeril@bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 14:41:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Melanoidins, Decoction Mashing, and extracts

George De Piro recentely wrote:
> Some malting methods and decoction mashing favor the formation of
> melanoidins. That's why it's important to decoction mash Munich
> lagers: just having high residual sweetness does NOT make the beer
> malty; it just makes it sweet. You must have melanoidins to get malt
> flavor.

Which makes me wonder: Is any of the DME or LME on the market decoction
mashed, and would it make any difference?

TIA,

- --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN <00bkpickeril@mail.bsu.edu>



------------------------------

From: Gary Eckhardt <gary_eckhardt@realworld.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 14:42:44 -0500
Subject: Counter Pressure Filler - Recap (no pun intended)

Since I was asked, I'm posting the variety of responses I got on my
question about the correct use of a Counter Pressure Bottle Filler.

It looks like my problem was temperature. I haven't had the time to
chill the beer colder and try again, but I will this weekend!

Posted below is a summary of responses I received via e-mail.
Thanks to all who responded! I must admit, for a first time poster to the
list, I am impressed with the friendly response I got to this question.
I've found a home! ;^>

Original Posting:
- -----------------

>I recently bought a counter-pressure bottle filler, and I guess I'm doing
>something wrong, as all my beer is FLAT when I try it out the next day.
>
>The instructions that came with it were rather vague, so I was wondering
>if anyone had any ideas on the correct operation of it. I have a
"three-handed" model, meaning it has the needle pressure release valve
>as well.
>
>Here's the operation procedure I used in a nutshell:
>
>1) Adjust CO2 tank to 10-15psi.
>2) Put filler in sanitized bottle.
>3) Open CO2 valve, then open needle valve to flush bottle with CO2.
>4) Close needle valve and CO2 valve.
>5) Open Beer valve. Beer should not be flowing.
>6) Open needle valve to start beer flowing and adjust to stop foaming.
>7) When bottle filled, close needle valve, and close beer valve.
>8) Take filler out of bottle and cap.
>
>Using the above procedure, I end up with flat beer. My kegs are usually kept
>at 20-25psi and if I draw off beer directly from the keg, the carbonation
>level seems fine. The beer was not as cold as it should have been (~50f)
>
>Any help, suggestions??
>
>Thanks.


Response 1:
- -----------

>0) boost keg pressure to 30psi a day or two before filling
>.5) Chill keg, bottles, filler to 32f.
>.75) bleed off excess co0
>
>> 1) Adjust CO2 tank to 10-15psi.
>I use 5-10. I found that too much pressure will knockout some co2
>during bottling.

Response 2:
- -----------

>Sounds like what I do. If you only put 15 psi in the bottle and you have 25
>psi in the keg, you'll get beer flowing into the bottle (step 5). You need
>to equate these pressures. And seems like 25 is a bit high for the keg
>pressure, especially if you serve the beer warm (55F).
>
>What happens when you take the filler off the bottle? I get a big pfffft
>sound and some foaming, but not much. I cap and next day, carbonated beer.
>
>I got almost no foaming when I had the beer real cold and the bottles cold.
>Things worked great, but I dont' think things are much worse when the
>bottles are room temp.


Response 3:
- -----------

>When CP-filling, I find it is important to get the beer as cold as
>possible to minimize foaming and out-gassing.

Response 4:
- -----------

>Your procedure sounds fine. It is the same as I usually use. The big key
>is to have your beer cold - as close to 32F as possible. There is a major
>difference between 32F and 35F in the behavior of the CO2. I also
>wonder about the accuracy of your regulator. If your regulator is set at
>25 psi and the beer is not 4/5 foam, I think it is reading incorrectly. My
>beer is kept at 10 to 12 psi and it is fully carbonated. When I am going to
>counter pressure fill, I adjust the regulator up to 20 psi to give it a little
>extra CO2 to compensate for the inevitable losses in filling.
>
>I would be interested in reading a summary of the responses you get to
>your query in HBD.

Response 5:
- -----------

>Maybe you are not maintaining pressure on the bottle before you fill it.
>You might want to check out this web page:
>
>http://www.foamrangers.com/filler.html
>
>It was put together by the webmaster of my homebrew club, the Houston
>Foam Rangers. It explains the operation of a counterpressure filler.
>
>Good luck!


- ---------------------------+----------------------------------------------
Gary Eckhardt | "in this day & age...music performed by
Database Consultants, Inc. | humans...hum!?"
--wilde silas tomkyn
dcigary@txdirect.net | R,DW,HAHB!
gary_eckhardt@realworld.com| R^3 = "Real World. Real Smart. Real Quick."
(210)344-6566 | http://www.realworld.com/


------------------------------

From: Aaron Sepanski <sepanska@it.uwp.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 15:17:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Beck's Oktoberfest


One gentleman published that he had recently tried Beck's Oktoberfest and
said it was skunky. This is really curious to me because I had the same
experience THIS year. The Beck's of last year I thought was much
better. I also noticed the skunky scent/flavor. I was just
dissapointing that's all. Last year I think that it was much better.
Does this sound familiar to anyone else? I'm sure the problem is in the
distribution of the beer, not in the making.

------------------------------

From: korz@xnet.com
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 15:43:38 -0500
Subject: malts/contract "imports"

Curt writes:
Breiss, Harrington, Hugh Baird, Maris Otter and other pale malts??

Breiss and Hugh Baird are maltsters. Harrington, Maris Otter (as well
as Klages and Triumph) are strains of barley. Breiss makes their 2-row
from Harrington as do most US maltsters. Every few years the farmers
change strains when a strains disease-resistance fades. In the Midwest
they changed from Klages to Harrington a few years ago. In the West,
they are part-way through the change. There are perhaps five or six more
2-row strains grown in the US, but Harrington (I'm told) is the most
common. Hugh Baird (I've read) is made from Maris Otter. Maris Otter
is supposedly one of the very best malts. Other maltsters that use
Maris Otter are Crisp Maltings and Beeston.

I have only used several pale malts to the point where I feel I could
give an opinion on them: DeWolf-Cosyns (DWC), Munton & Fison and Schreier.
I've used Munich malts from Ireks and DWC and thought they were both
great and quite comparable. Of the three Pale Ale malts I've used
a lot of, the Schreier is the cleanest (which can be a positive or a
negative, depending on what you are trying to make). M&F has the most
caramel and melanoidin flavours of the three. You can actually make
a decent Bitter with 100% M&F Pale. Forget it with the DWC and Schreier.
They both need at least 10% crystal malt to make a proper Bitter.

So, in my opinion, all three of these malts are excellent quality and
differ in flavour significantly. Incidentaly, Schreier doesn't make
a "Pils" and a "Pale ale" malt... they make one pale malt "Brewer's
2-row"
which seems more like a Pils than a Pale Ale malt to me.

***
SM writes (in response to AJ's comment on foreign beers brewed in the
US under contract):
>Would it be safe to say that the domestically produced version would
>use a similar recipe, but local grains?

Nope. Two that immediately come to mind are Loewenbrau (Miller) and
Andechs (Huber). I've had both here and in Germany and neither are
anything even close to the original. I have tasted Budweiser in
London and it tasted about the same as it does here. On the other hand,
the Miller I tasted in Canada was much better than it is here in the US.
I have also compared (side-by-side) the Labatt's Blue in Canada with
the import version. The difference was far greater than could be
due to the stresses of shipment. Different recipes, I'm quite sure.

As for floating grains versus beer, remember that you are importing
water too when you ship beer. It would be much more economical to
ship grains and hops and use local water than to ship beer, but you're
probably right, they probably do use local grains.


Al.

Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz@xnet.com

------------------------------

From: Larry Johnson <Maltster@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 13:49:39 -0700
Subject: motor loading

Bob Sutton says, in HBD #2201

>Let me caution that before anyone just slaps a controller on their
>existing pump, they should confirm that the pump can operate continuously
>at reduced speed. Most motors rely on self induced fan cooling. When the
>rotational speed id reduced, fan speed is reduced, cooling is reduced, and
>at some point the motor will overheat. Generally if the motor HP rating is
>well above the required load, a reduced fan speed will still provide
sufficient >cooling. When in doubt, check with the motor supplier.

Generally true, with a couple of comments:

1. Since centrifugal pumps are non-linear loads, the loading increases
exponentially with speed. This means that at 50% speed, the load is less
than 50% of the load at 100% speed. (Got that?) At 25% the load is less
than 50% of the load at 50% speed, and on and on, exponentially. Therefore,
there is some relief to the amperage (and therefore the heating) because of
the load characteristics.

2. The above is some help, but is much improved upon if the controller that
is used to power the motor is one that not only varies both voltage *and*
frequency (a light dimmer only varies the voltage), but is also capable of
producing a non-linear voltage curve that corresponds to the non-linear
torque curve mentioned in (1.) above. This curve is known as a "variable
torque load profile"
and many AC motor controllers are configurable for that
type of output.

3. This may all be completely irrelevant, since I have no idea if there are
AC motor controllers like this for motors as small as the ones you're using
in your RIMS systems. I am only familiar with what's available in the 1/4
to 1200 horsepower range.

Come get me, Mom; I'm through...........

Larry Johnson / Athens, GA / Maltster@ix.netcom.com


------------------------------

From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 15:54:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: grains

Tom Castle writes:
> I've seen DeWolf-Cosyns Pale Ale Malt and Pils Malt in the catalogs.
> Oh, Grain Gurus, what are the differences in these grains and what
> are the different characteristics typically associated with each?

Well, it kind of correlates with the differences between pale ales
and pilseners.

Pale ale malt has lower protein, lower enzymes (diastatic power),
and higher color. It will make a darker beer than the pils malt. It is
good for single infusion mashes, however, due to the low protein.

The pils malt will make a paler beer. A protein rest is often
recommended. It has more enzymes, though, so it is good to
use this malt if you are adding adjuncts, like in a belgian wit beer.

This is one topic that is rarely addressed in the literature. Good
to know, though, for the beer judging exam!

Hope this helps.

- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN


------------------------------

From: "David E. Bentz" <dbentz@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 18:13:22 EDT
Subject: Hmmm. Plastic carboy?

Help! I'm just getting started. Any problems using a plastic
carboy (5 gallon water jug) as a secondary fermenter? If a
food grade 5 gal. bucket is O.K., why not this?
- --
***************************************************************************
Dave Bentz
Turner Ashby High School
800 N. Main St.
Bridgewater, VA 22812
(W) (540) 828-2008
***************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "W. Scott Snyder" <w-snyder@students.uiuc.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 17:37:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Honey

Greetings all!

Was wondering if anyone had any experience with using Honey in
their brews. I'd like try to work up some type of Honey Ale (ala J.W.
Dundee) but am at a loss as to how much honey to use and what affect it
will have on overall character and alcohol content.

I am an extract brewer (grad student = no money, no space and no
time) so if you can keep any recipie suggestions within that framework,
I'd appreciate it!

Thanks!

Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.

-Scott


______________________________________________________
_________| | |_________
\ | W. Scott Snyder | Ask not whether you believe in | /
\ | "Cosmo" | Dragons, but rather, whether | /
\ | | Dragons believe in you... | /
\ |------------------------------------------------------| /
/ | E-MAIL - w-snyder@uiuc.edu | \
/ | URL - http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~w-snyder/ | \
/ |______________________________________________________| \
/____________) (___________\




------------------------------

From: M257876@sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 18:27 -0600
Subject: malts

collective homebrew conscience:

tom castle asked:

> I've seen DeWolf-Cosyns Pale Ale Malt and Pils Malt in the catalogs.
> Oh, Grain Gurus, what are the differences in these grains and what
> are the different characteristics typically associated with each?

pale ale malt is slightly higher kilned. the kilning reduces the available
enzymes for mashing compared to pils malt, but there are still plenty to
mash and convert a reasonable amount of adjuncts. the flavor of ale malt
is partway in between pils and vienna malt, in my opinion. some very light
vienna malts taste a lot like pale ale malt. the kilning also increases
the color of the beer in pale ale malt, as compared with pils. there may
be a slightly lower pH at mash-in using pale ale malt as well, but i've
never experimented with this (and probably don't have accurate enough pH
measurement capability). pale ale malt has very low (if any) levels of
the compounds which form dimethyl sulfide in a slowly cooled wort; pils malt
has plenty of these precursors, and dms will be quite evident in the finished
product of a slowly cooled wort made from pils malt.

schreier malting will send you a copy of a malt analysis for all the malts
they carry, including dewolf cosyns. much of the information about color,
enzyme content, etc. is in the malt analysis.


dave wrote:

>I'd like to experiment with making a very low alcohol mild using as a
>base Laaglander extract, but building the body and maltiness using a
>specialty grain such as Belgian Aromatic<snip>I've not used Aromatic before
>and I'm concerned that it will further increase the sweetness,
>Which of the various specialty malts are noted for adding character
>without adding much sweetness?


first off, if you use aromatic malt, you really should be mashing it.


i believe you can use aromatic and mash it at a low saccarification temp.,
around 150 deg. F, and it really won't contribute much sweetness, however,
aromatic malt is very low in enzymes and you must be careful not too overshoot
the temperature. otherwise you may decimate the enzyme population to the
extent that it does not convert all the available starch. in this case, you
would end up with a starch haze and food for bacteria in the finished beer.
you may want to add a small amount of pale lager malt to avoid this
situation.


generally, the crystal-type malts are the specialty malts that will really
contribute a lot of unfermentable sugars and sweetness. if you're doing a
partial mash (as with aromatic), you control the sweetness/dryness balance
with the mash temperature. chocolate and heavily roasted malts/barley
contribute a darker "roasted" type flavor that's really not sweet like the
crystal malts are.

brew hard,

mark bayer






------------------------------

From: braue@ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 19:56:24
Subject: Spelt

Charles Capwell <chas@A119018.sat1.as.crl.com> asks:

>Whilst looking around a chain supermarketish health/new age store(Whole
>Foods) here in San Antonio, I spied something called 'Flaked Spelt'(right
>next to the $.89/lb Flaked Barley) and I started wondering what the heck
>'spelt' was and what kind of effects it might have as an adjunct. If anyone
>knows I'd appreciate your sharing of knowledge. :>
>

Spelt is a hardy species of wheat (genus Triticum) mostly seen in
Europe (although, as your evidence indicates, it's making its way
across the pond).

I don't know what it does as an adjunct, but, in the absence of
hands-on knowledge, I'd advise treating it as a normal hard wheat.

- --
John W. Braue, III braue@ratsnest.win.net
jbraue9522@aol.com

I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work
miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified.


------------------------------

From: Jeff Hewit <jhewit@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 21:52:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: CAMRA Book "Brew Your Own Real Ale At Home"

Alex Santic indicatd that he was going to contact CAMRA (in England, I
guess) to see about getting a copy of their book "Brew Your Own Real Ale At
Home."
This book is already available in the good old US of A. I purchased
my copy through mail order from a homebrewer supplier - I forget who. I
have seen it listed in the catalogs of a number of the major suppliers. It
might even be available as a special order from a bookstore. No need to go
directly to England for a copy - unless one were to go in person, or course.


- ----------------------------------
Jeff Hewit - Midlothian, Virginia


------------------------------

From: greg@chtree.com
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 20:13:43 -0700
Subject: Counter Pressure Bottle Filler

My local brewstore sells a counter pressure bottle filler for $35. How do these
work? How well do they work? I'd rather build one than buy one, so I'd love to
hear
any construction ideas. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: "Bateman, M.D." <batemanm@email.uah.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 23:27:09 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Too much moss??


Has anyone ever used more than 1 tbsp of irish moss? If so,
can you describe the flavor that it caused?

I'm still trying to track down an off flavor from a batch that I brewed
and I have narrowed it down to either an over use of irish moss or leaving
the beer in the sun light for two weeks during the fermenting process.

What happened:

I was following a stout recipe and it called for irish moss. It
did not say when to add the irish moss, so I added it at the same time as
I added a portion of my hops (40 minutes before finishing.) I added the
amount which was supplied to me (probably a lot more than 1 tbsp).

The result:

A very strange tasting beer. The best description of the beer
came from a friend who said it tasted like a "soured tea." The beer has a
strong bitter taste and it exceptionally thick and probably really clear.
After four days of furious fermentation, I changed the beer to a glass
carboy and had probably one and one half gallons of mush at the bottom of
the primary bucket. When I bottled, I had probably one and one half
gallons or more of mush at the bottom of the carboy. Each bottle has a
good deal of settlement in them. It is undrinkable at the present time.
Although over the past month it has somewhat settled down but not near
enough to be drinkable.

The beer is only a month old.


I was wondering if there was something that I could do with this bad
batch...if it doesn't settle out in the near future.
{Not wanting to waste any of it if it can be helped.}

Michael D. Bateman
batemanm@email.uah.edu


------------------------------

From: robertjm@hooked.net (Robert Marshall)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 05:13:32 GMT
Subject: URL for PSC brewing stuff??

A few days ago I saw a web page for a company called PSC (I don't
remember what it stood for). One of the things that caught my eye was
a brewing stove which allows use of natural gas.

Now, when I try to find the page, I cannot. Does anyone know the
company I'm talking about? Also, could you forward the page URL on to
me?

Thanks in advance,


Robert Marshall
robertjm@hooked.net

homepage: http://www.hooked.net/users/robertjm

- ----------------------------------------------
"In Belgium, the magistrate has the dignity of a prince but by Bacchus, it is
true that the brewer is king."


Emile Verhaeren (1855-1916)
Flemish writer
- -----------------------------------------------


------------------------------

From: tbn@merkur.sds.no (Torbjorn Bull-Njaa)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:53:51 +0200
Subject: Triticum spelta

Charles Capwell asks what "spelt" is. Triticum spelta is an old wheat
version, I did not know it was commercially produced since the Middle Ages.
Other wheats are emmer/triticum dicoccum and durum/triticum durum. The wheat
we use for brewing (and bread!) is triticum aestivum or varieties of this.

Torbj=F8rn Bull-Njaa


------------------------------

From: AJN <neitzkea@frc.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 06:09:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Cut off from the HBD

If anyone out there is reading this, please, please reply to me via
private e-mail at neitzkea@frc.com.

I seam to be cut off from the HBD and haven't seen a post in over a week!

I need to know if there is something wrong with my end, or the AOB end.

Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, but I miss the HBD. (sob sob)

_________________________________________________________________________
Arnold J. Neitzke Internet Mail: neitzkea@frc.com

------------------------------

From: Geoff Bagley <geoff@gcbagley.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:55:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Hmmm. Plastic carboy?

In message <199609262213.SAA85222@pen2.pen.k12.va.us>, Homebrew Digest
REQUEST Address Only <homebrew-request@aob.org> writes
>Help! I'm just getting started. Any problems using a plastic
>carboy (5 gallon water jug) as a secondary fermenter? If a
>food grade 5 gal. bucket is O.K., why not this?

No problem if the plastic is the right kind.

Over here we use plastic vessels for mashing, plastic boilers
("Bruheat"), plastic fermenters, and plastic barrels (5 gals) for the
finished beer.
RTegards,
Geoff Bagley

------------------------------

From: tgaskell@syr.lmco.com
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 08:06:08 EDT
Subject: Saranac FallFest Results

Saranac Fall Fest Results

The brewing season has begun in the Empire State!

The following are the results of the 1996 Saranac Fall Fest
Homebrew Competition which was held Saturday, September 21
at the F.X. Matt Brewing Company in Utica, N.Y.

All proceeds benefit the United Way of Central New York.

Entries accepted from New York State Homebrewers.

Total Entries: 114
Categories: 12

Club Style
Best of Show
Paul Krebs STB Framboise

Amber and Dark Ales
Manny Holl HVH Traditional Bock
Rich Mueller MVFOB Vienna
Manny Holl HVH Oktoberfest

Belgian and French
Paul Krebs STB Framboise
Paul Krebs STB Trippel
Peter Garofalo SCBC White (Wit)

English and American Ales
Manny Holl HVH India Pale Ale
Phil Milano MUGGZ Classic English Pale Ale
Michael Maimone American Pale Ale

Fruit & Herb Beers
Tom Gaskell MVFOB Raspberry Porter
Chris Russell Citrus Wheat
Eric Schauber HVH Cranberry Ale

Light Lagers
Phillip Mitchell ABC Dortmunder/European Export
Phillip Mitchell ABC German Pilsener
Rich Rucigay STB Dortmunder/European Export

Meads and Ciders
Dennis Everett SCBC Sparkling Metheglin
Dennis Everett SCBC Still Cyser
Phil Milano MUGGZ Strawberry Mead

Miscellaneous Ales
Peter Garofalo SCBC American Brown
Chris Russell Kolsch
John Thibodeau MUGGZ American Brown

Porters
Tony Kattato MVFOB Porter
Anthony Becampis HVH Porter
Chip Quayle MVFOB Porter

Specialty Beers
Steve Sammons MVFOB Brown w/ Molasses
Ray Adams MVFOB Black and Tan
Mike Maimone Maple Porter

Stouts
John Barnes SCBC Imperial Stout
Manny Holl HVH Sweet Stout
Rich Rucigay STB Foreign Style Stout

Strong Ales
Bob Ehlers Scottish Light Ale
Manny Holl HVH English Old/Strong Ale
Lyn Howard HVH Scottish Export Ale

Wheat Beers
Eric Schauber HVH Weizen/Weissbier
Peter Garofalo SCBC Weizen/Weissbier
John Barnes SCBC Weizen/Weissbier


Special Categories

Winners were selected from entries in the Tastes Like Saranac
categories by the Tasting Panel from the F.X. Matt Brewing Co.

Tastes Like Saranac Amber
Ray Adams MVFOB Classic Style Specialty Beer

Tastes Like Saranac Golden
Peter Garofalo SCBC German Pilsener

Tastes Like Saranac Pale Ale
Phil Milano MUGGZ Classic English Pale Ale

Tastes Like Saranac Black and Tan
Lee J. Turner SCBC Porter

Tastes Like Saranac Wild Berry Wheat
Ray Adams MVFOB Specialty Beer


Key to Clubs:
ABC Albany Barley Converters
HVH Hudson Valley Homebrewers (Hyde Park)
MVFOB Mohawk Valley Friends of Beer (Utica)
MUGGZ Mutually United Grape and Grain Zymurgists (Schenectady)
SCBC Salt City Brew Club (Syracuse)
STB Saratoga Thoroughbrews

Special thanks to the F.X. Matt Brewing Company, brewers of Saranac,
for their help in making this event happen.

I also want to publicly thank these incredible folks:
Tricia Hogan, Saranac Tour Center
Chip Quayle, MVFOB, Registrar
Rich Mueller, MVFOB, Chief Steward
Jim Kuhr, MVFOB, Head Judge

Tom Gaskell
Organizer
1996 Saranac Fall Fest Competition


------------------------------

From: Robert DeNeefe <rdeneefe@compassnet.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 07:52:26 -0500
Subject: yeast propagation/enamel pots

In an effort to make a Wyeast packet go further than one batch, I dumped 1
lb. of DME into a gallon of water, boiled it, cooled it, put it into my
primary, aerated it, and then poured in a swelled packet of #1056. I plan
to let it ferment out and then bottle and refrigerate it. Then I'll make a
starter from a bottle when I need to and off we go. I may have made one
mistake though. I didn't remove the hot/cold break from the boiled wort,
and there seems to be a lot of gunk at the bottom of my fermenter. Will
this lessen the life of my little yeast bottles? Will this, re-pitched into
my next batch, cause weird flavors? Will Veronica find happiness with her
boyfriend's ex-boss's lovechild Waldo? Tune in tomorr...oops, sorry.

Second question: Does anyone use enamel on steel pots over a propane cooker
(ring burner) for boiling their wort? I am collecting the necessities for
all-grain, and large enamel on steel pots are certainly priced right (for me
anyway). Is a propane cooker too "strong" for them (ie. do I need a heavy
duty pot)?

Lastly, thanks for being so kind in answering my previous questions. In
regards to my last question about a dirty copper immersion chiller, I tried
scrubbing it to no avail. So I used some copper cleaner on it and it's now
bright and shiny. If it's good enough for copper pots, it's got to be good
enough for my chiller!

Robert



------------------------------

From: Alex Banta <abanta@sctcorp.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 10:42:58 EDT
Subject: Software

Hello Fellow Homebrewers,

I was recently given an old IBM 286 machine. Does anybody know
of any homebrew type software that might be compatible for this
"old" machine? Everything I have seen so far is for Windows 3.1 or
Windows 95. I know there must be something. Homebrewing
has been around for a long time, at least as long as this computer
anyway.

Any suggestions? Email me privately at abanta@sctcorp.com.

Thanks in advance for any ideas that you all may have.

Happy Brewing!




Alex R. Banta
Programmer Analyst, BANNER Finance
SCT Government Systems
Lexington, KY 40504
VOICE 277-1500 x 364
INTERNET abanta@sctcorp.com



------------------------------

End of Homebrew Digest #2207
****************************

← previous
next →
loading
sending ...
New to Neperos ? Sign Up for free
download Neperos App from Google Play
install Neperos as PWA

Let's discover also

Recent Articles

Recent Comments

Neperos cookies
This website uses cookies to store your preferences and improve the service. Cookies authorization will allow me and / or my partners to process personal data such as browsing behaviour.

By pressing OK you agree to the Terms of Service and acknowledge the Privacy Policy

By pressing REJECT you will be able to continue to use Neperos (like read articles or write comments) but some important cookies will not be set. This may affect certain features and functions of the platform.
OK
REJECT