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HOMEBREW Digest #2204
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/09/25 PDT
Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 25 September 1996 Number 2204
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
[none] (Alex Santic)
[none] (postmaster@swpe06.sw.lucent.com)
Octoberfest results (Tom Lombardo)
eliminate oxygen before bottling ? (Tom Krivec)
Stupid Regulations (Mike Adams)
The Fungus Amongus (eric fouch)
Re: Classic American Pilsner (Jeff Renner)
keg conversion ((Tom Neary))
Wyeast 3068 and Weizen ((George De Piro))
RE: Newbie probability / Stuck Mash / RIMS Stuff ((George De Piro))
definitive Oktoberfest (Alexis Tchoumak)
Maerzen/Fest/Orings/Dists (Jim Busch)
Re: Beet vs. Cane sugar (Paul Sovcik)
X-mas Ale ("Little, Wayne")
"oxygen barrier" bags ((David C. Harsh))
correction (Jim Busch)
Re: California Common yeast ((Mike Uchima))
The Stainless vs. Al Discussion (galley@hou.sperry-sun.com)
Deleted Message (<MAILER-DAEMON@go50.comp.pge.com>)
Banana beer update ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
starch ((Matthew Howell))
Correct usage of Counter Pressure Filler (Gary Eckhardt)
re: blue moon pumpkin beer (David MCconnell Higdon)
Basic Mini-kegging 101 (Gregory Smith)
Just starting would appreciate.......... (goode320)
Air unlock ("Pat Babcock")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Alex Santic <alex@brainlink.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 04:52:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [none]
Jacques Bourdouxhe mentioned the book "Brew Your Own Real Ale At Home" which
is available through CAMRA. I plan to call them tomorrow and see how
feasible it would be to obtain it.
For the convenience of the collective, the URL for the CAMRA home page is
http://www.camra.org.uk. They have an online catalog of books and things
for whatever ales you.
- --
Alex Santic - alex@salley.com
Silicon Alley Connections, LLC
527 Third Avenue #419 - NYC 10016 - 212-213-2666 - Fax 212-447-9107
http://www.salley.com
------------------------------
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Subject: [none]
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Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 25 September 1996 Number 2203
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Re: The Definitive Oktoberfest (Bill Rust)
Re: Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy (Jacques Bourdouxhe)
Malt Liquor ((A. J. deLange))
40C rest / streamlined all-grain (Dave Whitman)
Re: Brewing Beer Like Those You By book ((Jacques Bourdouxhe))
Oktoberfest ("William D. Knudson")
Re: Scorching (Spencer W Thomas)
sanctioning ("Bryan L. Gros")
RE: Sammy Adams Homebrew comp. ((George De Piro))
No sparge mashing (John Wilkinson)
RE: They moved whilst you were at school, son... (AJN)
Classic American Pilsner (Jeff Frane)
Burlington Brew Pub Question (atlantis@vgernet.net)
beer brite etches glass? (DownAPint@aol.com)
malt liquor (Todd.Etzel@ccmail.eos.lmco.com)
Blue Moon Pumpkin Beer??? (shane@cais.cais.com)
Hoffa-brau ("Pat Babcock")
RIMS: pump control (Marty Purselley)
Converted Keg Strainer (Andy Dixon)
------------------------------
From: Tom Lombardo <favt3tl@rvcux1.RVC.CC.IL.US>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 06:15:47 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Octoberfest results
Thanks to all who shared their opinions of the definitive Octoberfest.
Someone asked me to post the results, so here they are:
It's a tie for 1st place between Spaten and Paulaner (5 votes each). Also
mentioned were Acker Schorr Octoberfest, Dinkel Acker Fallfest, and
Warsteiner (1 vote each).
Has anyone tried Beck's Octoberfest?
Thanks again,
Tom
**********************************************************************
* When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws will be free. - Tom Robbins *
* *
* Tom Lombardo (favt3tl@rvcux1.rvc.cc.il.us) *
**********************************************************************
------------------------------
From: Tom Krivec <9535095@grz08u.unileoben.ac.at>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 12:48:45 +0200
Subject: eliminate oxygen before bottling ?
Hi out there,
Yesterday I could get an article about a big German brewery (Bitburger
Brauerei) that is dealing with the automatic filling system they use there.
It says that before the bottles were capped, a small beam of hot water is
injected into the bottle to make the beer foam. That foam forces the rest of
the air, which is in the 'unfilled' part of the bottle, out of the bottle.
So there is no more oxygen which is able to influence the taste of the beer
while lagering.
I found this to be a very interesting idea I personally never would have
thought of.
Do any of you have experiences with eliminating the oxygen before bottling
and if yes, how do you do it ? (Buying an automatic filling station maybe
could be a little bit too expensive ... :-) )
- --------------------------------------
BTW: I read that Mark Kellums' JUST HOPS has changed hands. So I once again
want to thank Mark. He did a great job and he sent me a wonderful box full
of hops to Austria !
- --- Thank's a lot; Mark !!! ---
That's it , Tom
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------
Tom Krivec 9535095@unileoben.ac.at
Lainger Flurweg 9
8740 Zeltweg/Austria
Ein Bier ist kein Bier !!!
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------------
------------------------------
From: Mike Adams <mike@telesph.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:23:01 -0400
Subject: Stupid Regulations
Here's my two cents on regulation by idiots:
>ajdel@interramp.com (A. J. deLange) writes on Malt Liquor
>All of the factors mentioned by Tom Brouns & Anne Daugherty & Zoe Brouns in
the post on beer/malt liquor pertain here in the US i.e. "malt liquor" is a
designation required by some states for any beer with alcohol content above
a certain level. In some states such a beer must be called an "ale". Other
examples of such foolishness abound. One sometimes sees a European import
labeled "Malt Liquor".
This falls into the same category as not being permitted to label a
barleywine a barleywine. The BATF won't allow beer to be labeled as
barleywine and still be sold as beer. Stupid, huh? Rather, you must label it
as barleywine-style to get around the BATF crap about "spirits."
Another one is labeling, again, let's thank the BATF for protecting us from
"evil" persons: If you produce a commercial brew, you have to submit samples
of the final label to the BATF for their blessing. Well, guess what, if your
printer remixes your colors and they are off even slightly, the BATF not
only wnats you to redo the label submission, but they can fine you or close
you down if you distribute your product with the "different" labels.
Doesn't this make you wonder about all of the wonderful, flowery stuff the
feed our kids in school about democracy and "a government of the people, for
the people"? If that was true, the BATF wouldn't be there. All they do is
take money and harass shopkeepers.
Vote "None of the Above" for everything.
MIke.
------------------------------
From: eric fouch <S=eric_fouch%S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021+pefouch%Steelcase-Inc@mcimail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 08:02 EST
Subject: The Fungus Amongus
Date: Wednesday, 25 September 1996 8:58am ET
To: STC012.HONLY@STC010.SNADS
From: Eric.Fouch@STC001
Subject: The Fungus Amongus
In-Reply-To: The Homebrew Digest
Have you ever noticed..
Last nite I was crushing three pounds of munich and one pound of vienna for
a partial mash, when I noticed a small mushroom in the hopper. I rescued it
from the grinder and placed the little dried bugger on the windowsill. (I
hope the wife doesn't find and discard him). It looks like a species I think
I should be able to identify, but I'll need a book. Anyway, anybody else ever
find a fungal specimen in their pre-grind? The brand was Ireks 2-row.
I optimistically ignored the significance of my saprophitic friend, watched
for any of his kin, ground, mashed and brewed as if nothing were wrong.
I doubt I'll make acid beer :-(, as I doubt it was ergot (ergot doesn't have
fruiting bodies, does it?). I can see the scoresheet now... "The colors, the
colors!"
Seriously, does anybody know if their exists a harmfull or detrimental (or
beneficial, for that matter) fungal infection that may manifest in the grain?
E-man
"I'm actually a gynecologist, but this is my lunch hour"
------------------------------
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 09:21:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Classic American Pilsner
In HBD 2203, Jeff Frane <jfrane@teleport.com> writes:
> Renner's recipe is more authentic, with 6-row, but 2-row
> works very well. Neither of us, apparently, wanted to
> be really authentic, or we'd be using Clusters in the
> boil <yuk>
Actually, I did use Cluster, with fine results (see my recipe repost in
HBD 2202). I wanted to use it for authenticity the first time, and was
willing to risk (once) the "coarseness" that I had seen it described as
having. I found that it provided a fine, apparently neutral, clean
bitterness when used in the boil. I didn't use it for flavor or aroma
additions.
Since that first brew, I have seen that Mark Garetz (Using Hops) says
"it has a very smooth, neutral bitterness with no objectionable
characteristics. It is a great base bittering hop for any beer." After
trying it once, I've continued to use it, feeling that it is neutral at
worst, and may even contribute some subtle, old fashioned flavor.
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
------------------------------
From: thomas.neary@peri.com (Tom Neary)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 09:21:42 -0400
Subject: keg conversion
Hello all,
I am attempting to design my new three tier brewery. I just obtained the
1/2 kegs. Originally I had planned to simply drill a 1/2" hole and use
washers, compression fittings and teflon tape to hold the ball valve in
the bottom side of the kegs (instead of having them welded).
My question are
1. Does anybody currently their drain valves connected to the
keg in this fashion?
2. Does the constant heat at such high temperatures affect the
washers (i.e., do they melt)?
TIA,
Tom Neary
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 07:59:58 -0700
Subject: Wyeast 3068 and Weizen
Hi again!
Last week I asked people about how to reduce esters and increase
phenols in Weizen made with 3068. Thanks to all who responded (there
were many).
Andy Walsh suggested aerating at pitching and again at 24 hours, so I
split the batch and did that to one fermenter.
The weird thing is, the batch aerated only at pitching took off like a
banshee, while the "over" aerated batch is plodding along in a pretty
subdued fashion! The only thing I can attribute this to is that the
second fermenter (the volcanic one) was filled with the second half of
my kettle runnings. Because I remove hot break by whirlpooling it is
possible that more trub got sucked out into the second fermenter.
This probably invalidates the experiment (as Andy pointed out in
personal E-mail), but I'll let you all know what happens anyway.
Have fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 07:52:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Newbie probability / Stuck Mash / RIMS Stuff
Howdy folks!
In response to the Newbie's problem (long lag time), I ask, "Did you
aerate your wort?" If not, that is a BIG part of your problem. The
yeast need adequate O2 to get started, especially when underpitching,
which is what you (and most of us) do.
For your future batches, try making up a starter culture and pitching
it into your wort at high krausen. It takes a bit more planning, but
it's worth it.
I save some wort from each batch of beer to use as starter media.
Simply take some out of the boiler at the end of the boil, dilute it
to a low gravity (if it is a high gravity wort), boil and can it.
Dave Miller has some great stuff on this in all three of his Homebrew
Books (not the Pilsner one, though).
--------------------------
Jim Murphy writes about his stuck mash. It sounds like you have
learned the value of FOUNDATION WATER. Yeah, it took me a while to
figure that one out, too! Simply fill your lauter tun with hot sparge
water to a depth of ~1/2" over the false bottom. Purge the tun with
CO2 (if you have the equipment), then dump in the mash.
I haven't had a stuck mash since I started doing this on batch # 3
(except for my 60% rye batch)!
Also, be careful not to let the wort flow to quickly from the lauter
tun, especially at the beginning. That can make the grain bed too
tight and inhibit flow tremendously.
---------------------------
Now for my woes...
I've used my RIMS system twice now, once for a single step infusion,
and the second time for a single decoction. I have the following
observations:
1. My heater is too small to boost the temp AT ALL. I thought, since
I mostly decoction mash, that a smaller heater would be OK, because I
would just need it for temp maintenance and perhaps boosting the temp
a couple of degrees if I undershot my mark. It won't even do that
much, so I need to get a new way to heat my mash!
2. The wort is not as clear as the wort I collected for my "Zap-Pap"
lauter tun. I'm still not sure about why this is, but I think it is
because my kettle outlet is too high up on the side, therefore any
fine draff that gets through the screen stays on the bottom of the
kettle, where it is slowly and occasionally sucked out. This keeps my
wort from clearing well.
The solution is to PAY a welder, rather than have the spigot put on by
a friend of a friend's friend!
3. I have EXTREME difficulty controlling my lautering rate. The
second time was worse than the first time (oddly). I think this is
because the second time I put the kettle up on the stove BEFORE
filling it with wort (the first time I LIFTED 13 gallons of 150F
liquid up to the burner. I'm sometimes pretty stupid...).
There was a 3' height difference between my mash/lauter tun and
boiler. If I ran the pump too slowly, the wort flowed back into the
mash tun (I was pretty surprised to find the mash tun becoming MORE
FULL while the boiler seemed to be emptying! Gravity works!). If I
ran the pump faster, it had no trouble moving the liquid, but it moved
it TOO quickly, hurting my extraction. I just couldn't reach that
happy medium!
In the end I had collected 16.5 gallons of wort that needed to be
boiled down to 11.2 gallons to achieve the gravity I wanted. That
took FOUR hours! So much for the RIMS advantage of saving time!
Well, that's it folks. If any more experienced RIMS types would like
to offer any help, it would be, um, helpful...
Thanks, Have Fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: Alexis Tchoumak <alexist@msmailhq.netimage.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 09:54:00 PDT
Subject: definitive Oktoberfest
>From: Tom Lombardo <favt3tl@rvcux1.RVC.CC.IL.US>
>Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 18:40:52 -0500 (CDT)
>Subject: the definitive Oktoberfest?
>
>OK, I don't know much about the Oktoberfest style. I just picked up a six
>of Sam Adams Oktoberfest. I know Sam is usually an "Americanized"
>(watered down) version of most styles, so I'm asking, what commercial brew
>is to Oktoberfest what Guinness is to Stout?
Try Weeping Radish!
You wouldn't drink Pete's/Sam's stuff after that..
You can check them out @ www.iniverse.digex.net/~microbrw/index
or call @ (919) 473-1157 (pub), (800) 896-5403 (for gift purchases.)
They are out in NC, Outer banks, Manteo, despite thick Bavarian accent..
The fest beer got a couple gold (silver?) awards, but more important,
it makes your taste butts scream.
If you like it, you can get it in a 5 liter keg..
------------------------------
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 09:57:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Maerzen/Fest/Orings/Dists
<Re: The Definitive Oktoberfest
For Germans I like Wurzburg, Paulaner (and/or Hacker Pschor, merged brewers)
and Spatan. Usually in this order of preference. In the US very few micros
or contracts are brewed from grists predominant in Vienna and Munich malts.
This is key to the style as noted many times here in the recent past. For
homebrewers Id recommend mostly Vienna, a tad of Munich and a touch of
CaraMunich. Double decoct and keep the IBUs below 25, below 20 is even
better.
Bill writes:
<If you go to Munich and ask for Festbier in September you get a strong beer
the
<color of which is Gold. If you go to Oktoberfest, no matter which brewer, the
<beers are all in the same ballpark. It's a lighter color than the other and
<lower in alchohol. I've shocked many with my description as being somewhere
<between an export and typical american draft beer.
I think you are being a bit harsh on the description of Festbier as served
at the 'Platz. I would call it between an Export and a Helles, but closer
to an Export/Heller Export. I hear that there are one to two kegs of "dunkels"
bier per day in some tents but if one doesnt ask for it you never get it.
And it goes fast. Not sure if this is still practiced or not. Certainly one
cannot associate "typical american draft beer" with a fine all malt Export!
Andy asks about using a false bottom in his boiler:
< I have just made a
<false bottom with 1/8" holes and about 1/2" clearance from the bottom of
<the keg and am wondering if I stand to get serious carmelization. Has
<anyone done this before and able to save me from weeks of cleaning if
<there's going to be a problem.
I do this but my hole size is smaller as I use the same screen for the
false bottom in my lauter tun as I do in my boiler. I use whole hops and
they tend to settle nicely on top of the false bottom. A catch of some
type is useful prior to the counterflow chiller as some particulates can
get through the screen. The screen does get heavily laden with trub so
cleaning is an issue. I scrub it with hot water and then do a caustic clean
prior to use.
Al writes about hop storage:
<Ziplock freezer bags
<are nothing more than thick polyethylene which is notoriously
oxygen-permeable.
True but over the timeframe of a year the losses are minimal when kept in
a freezer. Micros using whole hops do keep them im a freezer/cold room but
usually dont even close the hop bale between uses. Of course the bale only
lasts a few months but the losses are very small at very cold temps.
Al continues about keg Orings for the liquid/gas fittings:
<Also, I would
<recommend buying your o-rings from a reputable HB supplier, not Ace hardware.
Well, Ive taken to get them at Home Depot for about 10 cents and they work
fine. This seal is not in contact with beer much if at all.
<While you may be able to find the right size o-ring at Ace hardware, it
<may not be food-grade rubber and may impart an off aroma to your beer.
If its good enough for my drinking water then I think its OK. Granted if
it smells like a tire I wouldnt use it but these seals are fine, IMO.
Don writes about competition from the big boys:
<If you have a story about a micro-unfriendly distributor in your area, or a
<situation where one of the large breweries is trying to thwart the competition
<by lobbying efforts in the state capital I would like to hear about it.
Fact of life. It happens. Happens here in Md, and A/B would love to retain
"brand purity" of its distributers. And going against Sam Adams is not easy
for the small brewers either.
Jim Busch
See Victory Brewing at:
http://www.victorybeer.com/
------------------------------
From: Paul Sovcik <U18183@UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 09:01:23 CDT
Subject: Re: Beet vs. Cane sugar
In reading the posts debating this, I cant help but notice that no one
answered the original question which started this thread:
Can I use sugar beets for brewing?
The answer (IMO) is yes, but your beer will probably have some bizarre
taste characteristics that would cause you to feed it to the slugs.
Sugar beets are awful. They smell bad, they (apparently) taste bad, and
they are only used for processing into sugar. As far as I know, sugar beets
are never actually EATEN by anyone. So if you want a beer that stinks, use
some sugar beets!
For more discussion about the earthy smell of beets, check out Tom Robbins'
"Jitterbug Perfume", a book about beets that is best enjoyed with a homebrew.
-Paul in Western Springs, IL
------------------------------
From: "Little, Wayne" <LittleW@od31.nidr.nih.gov>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 10:08:00 edt
Subject: X-mas Ale
I am trying to recreate a X-mas ale that I brewed over a decade ago, using
a kit from a place called "Wine and the People" (no kidding), located
somewhere around San Francisco. They are now defunct. The information
supplied was sketchy and is now long gone. The stuff was great, similar to
Wild Goose s "Snow Goose" in color and hoppiness, only better. I think I
have recreated the body and strength using 6.6 lb of light liquid malt, 3
lbs. of light DME, and 1 lb of crystal malt steeped. I don t know the
original yeast variety, but It was recently suggested that I try a German
ale yeast. I know cask ale yeast worked well, but I need some guestimates on
:
1) LVB of Crystal to give best deep red but not brown color. Is 60 ok?
2) Amount and schedule of Eroica and Styrian Goldings to add for a high, yet
balanced degree of hoppiness. I know these were the hops used and want to
stick with them. As I recall, the Eroica went in at the beginning of a one
hour boil and the Styrian Goldings (whole hops) were bagged in at the end of
the boil and kept in the primary for several days. I have 2oz of pellets
for each of these varieties, but don t want to over bitter. Well, maybe just
a bit.
Private email is fine at wayne.little@nih.gov
Thanks and give it a try!
------------------------------
From: dharsh@alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:09:20 -0400
Subject: "oxygen barrier" bags
Al K. writes in #2203:
>Ben writes:
>> Question 1: ...where can you get oxygen impermeable plastic bags?
>
> ...<snip>... You can get Oxygen-barrier bags from Freshops...
> Ziplock freezer bags are ... polyethylene which is ... oxygen-permeable.
The concept of an "oxygen barrier" polymer for long term storage of hops is
quite flawed. Polyethylene has a permeability of between 55 and 0.4
barrers depending on polymer density and crystallinity (a 'barrer' is a
unit that represents volume permeation rate per area per pressure driving
force and is commonly used in gas permeation literature). Ziplock type
bags are at the higher end of this range.
The lowest oxygen permeability I found was for polyvinylidene chloride
(Saran <TM>) which was at 0.05. While this will provide up to a 1000 times
reduction in permeability, there will still be significant oxygen
permeation through this sort of barrier within a fairly short time. With
the exception of natural rubber, almost anything is better than PET, but
you can certainly do better. In addition, as polymers age, permeability
increases. Note: the low temperature will also decrease permeability due
to a glass/rubber transition, but I'm not sure about where this happens for
commonly used polymers.
The solution? Glass mason jars. The permeability of glass is constant (at
zero) and the only opportunity for permeation is at the lid/glass contact
point which is a tightly compressed seal. And you don't have to buy
special plastic bags either.
No affiliation with the glass people, the masons, or the jar people....
Dave
{No signature to save digest bandwidth. I suggest all others do the same.}
------------------------------
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:14:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: correction
I wrote:
<I think you are being a bit harsh on the description of Festbier as served
<at the 'Platz.
Of course I meant at the Theresienwiese, (Theresa's Fields).
Brain death again.
Jim
------------------------------
From: uchima@fncrd8.fnal.gov (Mike Uchima)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 09:25:58 -0500
Subject: Re: California Common yeast
XXBX78A@prodigy.com (MR PAUL G KURJANSKI) asks:
>
> I bottled a batch of California Common beer last night and was
> surprised to see what little sediment there was in the secondary. I
> used Wyeast 2112, primary fermentation for 7 days at 64 degrees and
> secondary for 2 weeks at 64 degrees. This is the first time I have
> used "lager" yeast. Is this normal ?
2112 is very flocculant, i.e. it settles out pretty quick. I'll bet most of
the yeast was left behind in your primary.
I didn't realize this last time I used this yeast, and had a very long, drawn
out secondary fermentation. Next time, I think I may try agitating the
secondary every few days, to keep more of the yeast in suspension until
fermentation is complete...
- -- Mike Uchima
- -- uchima@fncrd8.fnal.gov
------------------------------
From: galley@hou.sperry-sun.com
Date:
Subject: The Stainless vs. Al Discussion
Aluminum is indeed a much better conductor than SS. IMO, stainless is
a superior pot in every other way. The ultimate compromise is a
Vollrath style kettle. They have an Aluminum clad heating surface
(the bottom is Aluminum on the outside), but the kettle is 304
stainless. Pricey, yes. I bought a 15 gallon for US $189, but it
will indeed last a lifetime of brewing.
Tom
------------------------------
From: <MAILER-DAEMON@go50.comp.pge.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 7:42:03 PDT
Subject: Deleted Message
To: <homebrew-digest@aob.org>
From: Internet@PGE@COM[<homebrew@aob.org>]
Subject: Homebrew Digest #2203 (Wednesday, 25 September 1996)
Message in Transport deleted by:
AdminAGW1@CnoGO@Admin
------------------------------
From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD@HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:11:00 -0500
Subject: Banana beer update
The Almighty Collective,
You may recall me as the person with 10 pounds of
bananas burning a hole in my larder.
I decided to experiment with them in a nondescript
bohemian pilsner (no thought to it, just next beer in the
que). I pureed the bananas in a blender and "mashed"
them with pectin enzyme (from the biohazard winery)
for 6 hrs at room temperature. The puree turned into
a liquid due (presumedly) to the action of the enzyme.
I considered filtering it somehow, but ended up dumping the
whole mess into the secondary.
As I expected, a violent additional fermentation ensued.
It left an impressive amount of gunk in the carboy, however
it cleared nicely. I kegged it with a 1/2 cup of corn sugar.
Impressions at time of kegging. Beautiful amber color,
nice polished look, no carbonation of course,
smells like bananas. First sip detects a very sharp
astringency, almost tannic. Then a titlewave (excuse me,
storm surge) of banana. Finer points like hop aroma
and maltiness are wiped out by the strong banana aroma.
A pilsner was probably not a good choice for this experiment.
A more aggressive style would handle the overwhelming
flavor better, maybe a nice stout.
Reminds me of Celis's Raspberry Ale, fruit flavor over-
powering and annoying (can choke down one bottle in a
pinch). Well, its off to lager for a month and sit around
for a while after that. Hopefully the banana will fade a bit.
Questions:
1. Is the tannic bite caused by tannins? I didn't think
bananas had any. In the peel?
2. If so, should I use a fining agent to decrease
the tannins? Polyclear or gelatin?
3. Is my pilsner ruined?
Daniel Goodale (yes, that is my real name)
The Biohazard Brewing Company
I like to think of myself as a chemical super-freak.
------------------------------
From: howell@ll.mit.edu (Matthew Howell)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 11:28:47 -0400
Subject: starch
Hello, all.
I recently brewed a simple ale, with Wyeast #1338. For the
first time, I used distilled water and salt additions to
approximate Mosher's ideal ale/dark lager water recipe.
The problem is this. I am almost sure I sparged way
too hot, and I believe I've got unconverted starch in my
brew. The brew has an unusual taste I can't put my finger
on, but definitely off. I am wondering if someone in the
know could describe the taste of unconverted starch in beer,
if any. I hope my problem stems from the too hot sparge, as
this is more easily dealt with. I simply won't do it in
the future! :)
Thanks.
Matt
------------------------------
From: Gary Eckhardt <gary_eckhardt@realworld.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:28:00 -0500
Subject: Correct usage of Counter Pressure Filler
I recently bought a counter-pressure bottle filler, and I guess I'm doing
something wrong, as all my beer is FLAT when I try it out the next day.
The instructions that came with it were rather vague, so I was wondering
if anyone had any ideas on the correct operation of it. I have a
"three-handed" model, meaning it has the needle pressure release valve
as well.
Here's the operation procedure I used in a nutshell:
1) Adjust CO2 tank to 10-15psi.
2) Put filler in sanitized bottle.
3) Open CO2 valve, then open needle valve to flush bottle with CO2.
4) Close needle valve and CO2 valve.
5) Open Beer valve. Beer should not be flowing.
6) Open needle valve to start beer flowing and adjust to stop foaming.
7) When bottle filled, close needle valve, and close beer valve.
8) Take filler out of bottle and cap.
Using the above procedure, I end up with flat beer. My kegs are usually kept
at 20-25psi and if I draw off beer directly from the keg, the carbonation
level seems fine. The beer was not as cold as it should have been (~50f)
Any help, suggestions??
Thanks.
- ---------------------------+----------------------------------------------
Gary Eckhardt | "in this day & age...music performed by
Database Consultants, Inc. | humans...hum!?" --wilde silas tomkyn
dcigary@txdirect.net | R,DW,HAHB!
gary_eckhardt@realworld.com| R^3 = "Real World. Real Smart. Real Quick."
(210)344-6566 | http://www.realworld.com/
------------------------------
From: David MCconnell Higdon <dhigdon@wam.umd.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 11:37:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: re: blue moon pumpkin beer
Contact Coors because they are the ones who make Blue Moon.
------------------------------
From: Gregory Smith <barnbrew@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 11:49:03 -0700
Subject: Basic Mini-kegging 101
I have seen several threads about mini-kegs, including the pros and cons, and I
have
decided to use them. I am about to split a batch - using two mini-kegs and
bottling the
rest. Can anyone give me a basic set of guidleines (sanitzing, bungs, etc)? I
know I
should split the priming sugar, but what's a good ratio?
TIA,
Greg
------------------------------
From: goode320 <goode320@msgate.rlc.dcccd.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 10:54:00 PDT
Subject: Just starting would appreciate..........
I know you Gentlemen/Gentleladies probably get this a lot but if you
could offer some advice to a novice like myself it would be greatly
appreciated. Some Advice on: 1) Best Starter Kit for producing
small
batches ale
2) A idea on a
good type of batch/
recipe to
start working with.
It would be greatly appreciated as I do Enjoy a good beer now and then.
Thank you for your time and effort in this matter.
Regards,
J. Phillips
Dallas Tx
------------------------------
From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock@ford.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 12:05:12 -0400
Subject: Air unlock
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
I recently decided to get the three-piece lock off my mead for the much
noisier triple-ripple. To my dismay, the mead stopped hitting the lock
shortly thereafter. Looking at the liquid/headspace boundary, I could see
bubbles of CO2 evolving from the mead! This caused me to experiment. I
sprayed ethanol at the base of the lock and the stopper-to-'boy interface.
Hmm. Positive pressure once again. In the meantime, my cider began to slow
down. Tried the same thing, and it sped back up.
Did spraying ethanol on the outside of the fermenter somehow stimulate new
fermentation :-P
OK, Ok, enough foolishness! Once the ethanol dried from the stopper, the
cider slowed down and the mead stopped once again. I have since taken to the
following:
o Sanitize stopper and airlock
o Insert airlock into stopper
o Insert stopper in carboy mouth
o Apply keg-lube, lubrifilm - whatever - to the stopper to lock interface
Leak free. No false finishes. With the added benefit of conditioning your
stopper (OK - your stopper's top).
Before pulling the lock out of the stopper, rinse the lubrifilm away with hot
water and wipe clean. this will prevent the glop from getting on the business
end of the lock stem and exciting the "mebbe the stuff'll get in my beer and
kill the head" receptors in your brain.
For those who have had the "by God! The air lock stopped bubbling and my beer
is still too sweet" syndrome, maybe this will help you...
See ya!
Pat Babcock
pbabcock@oeonline.com
http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/nrew.html
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2204
****************************
