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HOMEBREW Digest #2148
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/08/15 PDT
Homebrew Digest Friday, 16 August 1996 Number 2148
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
First All grain ! (David Root)
egos & email (Annetmark@aol.com)
[none] (Jim Hodge)
Corny Infection/Baking Bottles/Tolerance? ("Dave Hinkle")
coriolis whirlpools (Andy Walsh)
RE:Fruit Juice in Beer ("Leo A Demski (SAR)")
[none] ((Darren))
[none] (Frank Nowakowski)
1996 Dixie Cup ("Sean Lamb")
[none] ((Richard Moore))
kegging and carbonation ((PAUL RYBAK))
Re: Counterclockwise Whirlpooling ((John W. Braue, III))
[none] (bob rogers)
[none] ("Bryan L. Gros")
Coriolis effect ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
[none] ((Russ Brodeur))
Never saw this while I was in OZ (David Pike)
oxidation (M257876@sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace@mac))
[none] (RUSt1d?)
Hop Gender ("Huyck, Randall W.")
[none] ((Charles Burns))
boiling grains (AJUNDE@ccmail.monsanto.com)
Keg Sanitation ("ESCHOVIL.US.ORACLE.COM")
[none] ("Dan Listermann, Cinci OH")
(no subject) (Ken Parsons)
(no subject) (Warren Schnibbe)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: David Root <droot@cris.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 17:16:37 -0400
Subject: First All grain !
Thanks to the HBD, I brewed my first All Grin batch of beer. It went
quite well except for a few small snags. I used a 1/4 keg for the mash tun
and used a homemade outdoor cooker for heat . I think that the burner is
rated @ 250K Btu. Control of the heat was a little tough until I got used to
the valve. I tried to combine 170 f 5.5 pH water and the 10 lb. German
malt. The temp was 145 f. I added heat and hit 170 f in about 3 minutes.
SO I added some cold water to see if the batch could be saved. After an
hour of roughly 155 f , I tested for conversion. It passed the test. I
was
amazed. The sparge went better than I thought. I stopped when I had 6
gallons and 2 quarts of wort. The gravity was 1.020 of the final runnings.
It was so clear that I thought is was pure water, and kept checking the
gravity. I did not know when to quit so when I had no more room in the
fermenting bucket, I stopped. I boiled the wort in the same vessel that
was used for the mash. Turned the burner on high, and waited. I went
into the house and when I came back out the kettle was boiling over, and
I lost about 3 gallons of boiling wort onto the ground. This killed the
grass. When I finished I had 3 gallons of wort with a sg of 1.060 .
If it wasn't for the digest, I would never had this adventure. Next time
I am going to do a 10 gallon batch. I'm going to try to make Canadian
Ale.
Thanks to all of you for the inspiration David Root
droot@concentric.net
David Root Lockport NY droot@concentric.net
------------------------------
From: Annetmark@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 20:22:16 -0400
Subject: egos & email
Dave Burley just wrote concerning his ongoing exchange with AlK. He wrote to
the effect that they really weren't holding knives to each others throats and
that they had kept a lot of it in private email.
>We got off here when we realized our quotations,
ruminating and discussions were not of interest to too many others and
difficult
to follow, although some people have recently asked to be copied in on our
conversations. We try to limit our conversations in the HBD to those which we
think are useful to some members at least. Please don't misunderstand. Our
fussing and fighting is not based on egos - or at least mine isn't. (smiley
face
here).
well, as a beginner a lot of your discourse went over my head, BUT - i look
at the HBD as a fantastic learning resource, so PLEASE don't take it all to
email. it's kind of like working on a jigsaw puzzle, it's hard to understand
how the pieces fit together at first but as you begin to get a little basis
of understanding all those little pieces begin to make sense and fit
together. So thanks to all of you for your info pieces and don't think that
there aren't interested people out here. besides, as has been said here
before, we all have page down keys if we find something that doesn't interest
us.
on a more directly brew related topic - I had posted a few weeks back about
the batch of hazelnut extract flavored Nut Brown Ale I had made. At the time
I said I considered it almost undrinkable but was hoping that it would
mellow. I bottled it June 15, now two months ago. I just opened one and it
has improved considerably, although it has a long way to go. I received email
from several people on this topic and the consensus seems to be go easy on
the extract flavorings and give it a lot of time.
I have a question concerning hops utilization. I started using a hops bag,
which i like as far as keeping the sediments out of the fermentor. but i
realize it cuts down on utilization - but by how much as a general rule? and
does that vary much for the different forms of the hops? I have been using
mostly loose cones, but recently have also been using pellets. TIA
Mark Tumarkin
The Brewery in the Jungle
annetmark@aol.com
------------------------------
From: Jim Hodge <jdhodge@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 00:30:03 +0000
Subject: [none]
In response to the comment:
>There was a thread here some time ago about restricting posting rights to
>the HBD to its subscribers. Recent posts by this Nokomaree writer show me
>that this measure and any correlative involuntary unsubscribing of that
>writer and any others like that one may be needed.
I am, frankly, surprised at the response NOKOMAREE's posts have generated.
Was NOKO rude and offensive? Certainly. Were the comments inappropriate
for HBD? Probably. However, the outcry to boot him/her off HBD or have AOL
boot him/her, I find equally offensive and inappropriate. Presumably,
everyone reading this digest is doing so because they have an interest in
brewing. However, just because we all share this interest does not mean
that we are one pleasant and well-adjusted homogeneous mass of humanity. A
trip to any brew club meeting will reveal that 'it takes all kinds' and I
find that one of the really appealing aspects of brewing is the fact that it
is an interest that can be shared with a people from all walks of life. It
is an unfortunate fact of life that some individuals are just abrasive to
other individuals. Accept this, move on, and you'll be a better and happier
person for it.
I personally found NOKO's comments more amusing than offensive and, at the
risk of being flamed, ostracized, or slapped around in a virtual sense, I
would point out that buried beneath all of the insults, the 'stupid's, etc.
in NOKO's posts is the gist of Charlie Papazian's message: Relax, don't
worry. If you're brewing at home, it's a hobby, not a job. Make it as
simple or complex as YOU want. Spend as much or as little time as YOU want
to thinking about how best to prime you beer at bottling. If it's not fun,
it's time to step back and analyze why the heck you're doing it.
Jim Hodge
jdhodge@worldnet.att.net
===================================================
"..and what is good, Phaedrus,
..and what is not good--
Need we ask anyone to tell us these things?"
===================================================
------------------------------
From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle@aexp.com>
Date: 14 Aug 1996 18:09:31 -0700
Subject: Corny Infection/Baking Bottles/Tolerance?
Been out of town for a while, and had to catch up on 10 days or so of HBD.
Just a few brief comments:
Infected corny:
For the person who had a kegged batch get infected, if it was a used soda keg,
well, no wonder. Iodophor won't remove crud, and I've yet to see a used soda
keg that wasn't in bad need of disassembly & thorough cleaning. Careful taking
apart the popet valves - I gashed the tip of my thumb with one once, which
slowed down the rest of the cleaning process. Replace all rubber o-rings
(period!). A little Red Devil Lye mixed in water cleans even the oldest dried
soda syrup and mold/mildew off the metal parts. Be sure to soak the dip tube,
and get a brush to clean the inside (a .223 bronze rifle brush fit mine, and
just $.99 if you already have a rod). Lye works great and is cheap, but wear
rubber gloves and safety glasses - that slippery sensation is your skin
sloghing off! A (new!) toilet brush helps clean the inside of the keg quite
well. Oh yeah, I don't remember seeing anyone mention it, but you generally
don't want to use bleach on stainless. Unless you're Robert Mondavi Vinyards,
where a tour guide told me they use bleach water through a spray head to clean
inside their tall, vertical fermenters. I think as long as you don't soak,
then rinse immediately, dilute bleach is OK to use on stainless. Ahh,
controversy.
Baking bottles:
I've been baking bottles with foil crimped over the top for well over a year
now. Pretty convenient to have nice, clean STERILE bottles ready whenever I
need them. Just peel off the foil and fill. One thing I noticed is that even
with slow heating and cooling, some bottles can't take the stress more than a
few cycles. But my failure rate is pretty low - 2 necks snapped off while
capping from a pool of over 100 bottles in the past year. Then again, in the
years prior to baking, I NEVER had a bottle break while capping. Anyone else
observed a noticeable failure rate?
Tolerance:
Last, but not least, I am disturbed by the amazing lack of tolerance exhibited
by several subscribers. It's one thing to argue facts, but to attack someone
else's OPINIONS is ridiculous. Whether the opinions are those of an industry
"expert" or those of a certain AOL user, they are just OPINIONS, right? Try
not to take things so personally if your opinions aren't shared by everyone
else. And the attacks on other people's character certainly do not belong in
HBD.
Dave Hinkle
Phoenix, AZ
------------------------------
From: Andy Walsh <awalsh@crl.com.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 11:41:58 +1100
Subject: coriolis whirlpools
>From: Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer@POSC.org>
>This may be the dumbest question ever posted to the HBD.
>I know that in the northern hemisphere water goes down the drain in
>a clockwise pattern, and in the southern hemisphere it drains
counterclockwise.
>Will the counterclockwise motion of my whirlpool be offset or disturbed by the
>gravitational/cosmological tendancy of fluids to drain in the opposite
direction?
This coriolis effect on water draining is one of the biggest urban myths
perpetuated throughout modern society. The direction of a whirlpool is
almost
entirely dependent on basin geometry and/or status of the local water
currents
before you pull the plug (and other such physical effects).
Try it yourself: fill a basin with water, set up a direction of flow,
and pull
the plug. The direction of the whirlpool will be dependent upon the
initial
flow, and will not suddenly reverse, unless your basin has really weird
geometry.
As for a whirlpool tank that is designed to go in a particular
direction: it will
behave pretty much identically in either hemisphere.
The coriolis effect is visible in *large* systems such as weather
patterns, but is irrelevant in small systems about the size of a
bathtub.
Incidentally, cyclones in the southern hemisphere are clockwise, and
anticlockwise
in the northern hemisphere.
Now back to beer...
- --
Andrew Walsh CHAD Research Laboratories
Phone (61 2) 212 6333 5/57 Foveaux Street
Fax (61 2) 212 1336 Surry Hills. NSW. 2010
email awalsh@crl.com.au Australia.
------------------------------
From: "Leo A Demski (SAR)" <demski@virtu.sar.usf.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 23:06:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE:Fruit Juice in Beer
Hi there Folks! May I just first say that I am very happy to have found
such a nice forum (flames not withstanding) out there for homebrewing
discussions. Keep up the good work!
Now then- Joe Labeck had asked about the success of putting fruit juice
into yer various brews...I have had many excellent results from doing the
above; tweaking regular or new recipes by adding a respectable amount of
fruit juice (usually between 3 cups and 2 gallons) to a regular 5 gallon
batch...You want to try to use the freshest juice though, or at least
preservative-free juice...
I have had particularly wonderful results from adding a few cups of fresh
squeezed orange juice to a Belgian wit-like recipe, a gallon and a half
of Knudsen's Black Cherry juice to a nice Cherry Stout (made with close to
10 pounds of tart cherries), and 2 gallons of fresh pressed apple cider to
a brown ale recipe.
The pros are that depending on the amount of juice, you can get either a
hint of the fresh flavor and aroma of the fruit, or a lasting flavor of
the fruit.
The cons are that clearing of the beers seem to be impaired, and the
beers that I have made with more than a gallon and a half of juice have
had an extremely sour aftertaste, with more tannic bite than I wanted.
Hope that helps- I would be interested in hearing more about the
subject...
Ciao,
Leo Demski
demski@virtu.sar.usf.edu
------------------------------
From: darrenjet@ipa.net (Darren)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 22:39:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [none]
Fellow Brewers,
Upon brewing my first batch of mead, a friend suggested the use of a
clarifying agent known as "Sparkolloid" during the final fermentaion stage
prior to bottling. This agent is commonly used by wine/mead makers and I
was wondering about its usefullness in beer making. Has anyone experimented
with this? Does it work? Are there any undesirable effects? "Sparkolloid"
is apparently a trademark of Dover Vinyards, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio. (No
endorsement, just stating fact to help identify the product in question.)
Cheers,
Darren
darrenjet@ipa.net
"The critic is convinced that the chief
purpose of sunshine is to cast shadows."
------------------------------
From: Frank Nowakowski <huey@buffnet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 00:08:31 GMT
Subject: [none]
Does any one know of a study at home brewing course. I love to read about
brewing and all the related subjects that go along with it. I've read most
of the common books on brewing, but I'm looking for a little more.
Thanks;
Frank
------------------------------
From: "Sean Lamb" <slamb@ghgcorp.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 02:28:57 -0600
Subject: 1996 Dixie Cup
I would like to invite all homebrewers to enter their beer in the
1996 Dixie Cup Homebrew Competition.
Information on entering is available via the world wide web. the URL is:
http://www.foamrangers.com/DixieCup96.html
All of the official entry stuff is there. If you would like
information mailed to you, send me you terrestrial address.
The dates for this year's competition are October 18 and 19.
Enries are due by Ocotober 5, and the entry fee is $6.
As usual, there will be more than just judging for those people who
chose to visit us in Houston. Good speakers at the conference, "the
Best of Fred" and more. Come join us!.
Sean Lamb One of the Happy Humanoids in Friendswood, TX
http://www.ghgcorp.com/slamb
------------------------------
From: remoore@exis.net (Richard Moore)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 05:41:38 -0400
Subject: [none]
Just got a free 6# bag o' malt from my friendly HB dealer. Only problem is
that it's kinda puffy. She told me that she called the mfr (Northwestern)
and they claim that it picked up a wild yeast prior to packing, and should
be OK. They credited her for the whole shipment, BTW.
I accepted it, thinking that a good boil would kill most anything, but I'm
having some reservations in the light of day. I put it in the fridge
pending a query of my peers. What do y'all think?
If I do go for for it, i gotta dig out CP to refresh my memory on how to do
an extract brew....
Rich Moore
Prop. & Braumeister
War Admiral Brewery
VA Beach, VA
------------------------------
From: PERSAND@gnn.com (PAUL RYBAK)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 06:57:48
Subject: kegging and carbonation
I've been kegging in a corny keg for about 15 batches so far. I
always force carbonate: sometimes shaking the heck out of the keg
and other times just pressurizing and leaving it for 3-5 days. I
use the 'proper' temp-pressure from carbonation charts and have
experimented with varying the carbonation pressure and discharge
pressures. I'm dispensing from a 5 foot length of 1/4" hose. My
question is that although I'm getting a very creamy and fairly long
lasting head I get hardly any bubbles developing and rising from
the bottom of the mug.
Most of my brews are all grain lagers, usually with a 1/2 - 1 pound
wheat added. The beers a quite clear and my beer glass is always
quite clean-no soap just hot water and drip dry. Any advice?
e-mail fine.
Paul Rybak, Morris,IL
------------------------------
From: braue@ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:15:51
Subject: Re: Counterclockwise Whirlpooling
Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer@POSC.org> asks:
>This may be the dumbest question ever posted to the HBD.
Actually, I seem to recall dumber ones :)
>I recently acquired a two tier converted Sanke keg brewing system.
>The boil pot is plumbed so that you can recirculate the
>wort in a counterclockwise direction. This serves the dual purpose
>of maximizing immersion wort chiller cooling efficiency and
>whirlpooling hot/cold break into the center of the keg. I know that in the
>northern hemisphere water goes down the drain in a clockwise pattern, and
>in the southern hemisphere it drains counterclockwise. Here's the
>dumb question. Since I am in the northern hemisphere, will the
>counterclockwise motion of my whirlpool be offset or disturbed by
>the gravitational/cosmological tendancy of fluids to drain in the
>opposite direction? What say you, all you astrophysicists/brewers?
The short answer: no.
The Coriolis effect (sometimes miscalled the Coriolis force) is of
extremely small magnitude. In experiments (I thought that for a
change I had a reference right near me, but alas, it turns out to
describe the *Coanda* effect) done by the simple expedient of
filling a container with water and allowing it to drain out, it
was found that, even after several hours, the water still drained
out in the sense imparted by the filling (i.e., if you filled the
vessel in such a way that the water moved widdershins, it would
drain widdershins). After (as I recall) about 6 hours, the
Coriolis effect began to be seen in the drain (the water would
change senses whilst draining), and the water had to be
undisturbed for about 24 hours before the Coriolis effect would
reliably start it draining in the expected sense.
- --
John W. Braue, III braue@ratsnest.win.net
jbraue9522@aol.com
I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work
miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified.
------------------------------
From: bob rogers <bob@carol.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 08:54:17 -0400
Subject: [none]
gene asks about clip-art for lables. i don't know exactly what you want,
but there is some stuff on web pages that could be used. if you have a
scanner you could also scan things from magazines. i just started making
lables for my homebrew. i have used generic clip art and it looks ok.
i make the artwork with ms powerpoint, and then copy and paste into
a ms word table with 4 inch by 3 inch cells. since i use an inkjet printer
i fix the color with clear paint. i use a uhu gluestick to put them on
the bottles.
sometimes i make the lables 2 inch by 4 inch and put them on the bottle
vertical. it gives my homebrew a unique appearance.
brewing in the buckle of the bible belt
bob
bob rogers
bob@carol.net
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:21:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [none]
Anyone have experience with Ultra hops? That's all I've got left from last
year's
order, and I'm planning to brew a pale ale.
What can I expect from the flavor and aroma of Ultra?
Thanks.
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Music City Brewers: http://www.theporch.com/~homebrew1/
------------------------------
From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD@HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:36:00 -0500
Subject: Coriolis effect
In HBD #2147 Jim writes:
> Here's the dumb question.
The only dumb question is the one that is
not asked! (except for the REALLY dumb
questions or as some HBDers would have it
"dumbness" [sic]).
>Since I am in the northern hemisphere, will the
>counterclockwise motion of my whirlpool be offset
> or disturbed by the gravitational/cosmological tendency
>of fluids to drain in the opposite direction? What say you,
>all you astrophysicists/brewers?
I'm not an astrophysicist (don't even play one on TV),
but I was always taught that the Coriolis effect was
something that effects macro systems, like hurricanes.
It theoretically could effect water in the toilette or brewing
system, but the effect is so small that other factors over-
ride it.
Daniel Goodale (yes, that is my real name)
The Biohazard Brewing Company
I like to think of myself as a chemical super-freak.
------------------------------
From: r-brodeur@ds.mc.ti.com (Russ Brodeur)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 10:46:08 -0400
Subject: [none]
Aloha,
The water is pretty soft where I live (~ 34 ppm as CaCO3 & ~170 ppm TDS).
However, since I dwell within the coastal plain (IMO), the salt
concentration is on the high side (I think), at ~70 ppm as Cl-.
I am wondering whether this salt concentration is high enough to affect the
flavor profile of some of the more "delicate" styles, e.g. pils & Maerzen.
My water's profile isn't all that different from Munich's, except for the
salt concentration, which is about 30x higher.
TIA for any advice!
TTFN --<-@
Russ Brodeur (r-brodeur@ds.mc.ti.com)
Franklin, MA
------------------------------
From: David Pike <davep@bdc.cirrus.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 09:08:31 -0700
Subject: Never saw this while I was in OZ
Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer@POSC.org> says:
"I know that in the northern hemisphere water goes down the drain in a
clockwise pattern, and in the southern hemisphere it drains counterclockwise."
I never saw this while I was in Australia. A momily, perhaps?
------------------------------
From: M257876@sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace@mac)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 12:08 -0600
Subject: oxidation
collective homebrew conscience:
pierre asked:
>1. Should I have filled up the carboy to the bottom of the neck with
>cooled boiled water or my favourite brand name beer?
some people do this to help cut down on oxidation. using polyclar at racking
generates CO2, which *should* fill some of the carboy headspace, at least
for a while (how long, guys?). being heavier than air, it *should* sit on
top of the beer surface and provide some protection against oxidation in the
carboy.
>4. Before I bottle my beer, in about 10 days, I plan to transfer the
>beer back into my primary, mix in the appropriate amount of sugar and
>then pour it into the bottles using the spigot on the pail. Should I
>be worried about oxygen at this point in the process?
when you transfer, don't splash, and you probably shouldn't just pour the
beer into the bottles. this is an easy way to get oxidized homebrew. the
risk at bottling is pretty high if you just splash it in there. use some
sort of a down tube that reaches into the bottom of the bottles so the
beer doesn't foam and splash as it fills.
question: what's this about chlorine bleach getting impregnated into
plastic? i currently use the same plastic bucket for sanitizing and for
sparge water. i haven't noticed any bad flavors in the beer (chlorophenols),
and neither have the judges, but is my beer at risk?
brew hard,
mark bayer
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 13:52:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [none]
I took a tour of the Wild Goose brewery in Cambridge MD last weekend.
Some interesting information was given to me by the tour guide (she
was summer help so I didn't take the info too seriously).
When I noticed that their mash tun had no provision to apply heat I
asked if they did infusions to step up. The guide look at me, puzzled,
and responded "We mash at 140F". Hmmm. (this one goes to 11).
When we got to the kettle, she warned us to be careful, "the wort is
boiling at 300F". (No it was not under pressure).
This reminds me of the beer festivals I've gone to. It seems that the
people pouring the beer know either very little, or wrong information
about the beer/brewing process. One prime example was the Red Hook
stand at a recent festival at Independence Brewing in Phila. The two
women that were pouring were both knockouts, but they knew nothing
beer (it was like a living beer commerical).
When I go to a festival or a brewpub I expect the person filling my
mug to know something about what they are filling it up with...
Or is it just me?
John Varady
Boneyard Brewing Co.
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow"
------------------------------
From: "Huyck, Randall W." <rwh0303@hub.doh.wa.gov>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 12:34:24 -0700
Subject: Hop Gender
I have some Cascades growing at my in-laws' and am beginning to wonder if
I have a male hop plant instead of a female. The cones (if you can call
them that) are about the size of a small grape and are rather spiky, not
leafy like the ones I'm used to buying. Are they a) ok and I should
quit worrying and see what happens with time, b) poorly nourished, c)
male hops and I should dig them out, or d) none of the above? Any
response, public or private would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
Randall W. Huyck
Travel Desk
Office of Financial Services
Washington State Department of Health
MS: 47901
Voice: (360) 753-0711
Internet: RWH0303@hub.doh.wa.gov
------------------------------
From: cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 13:09 PDT
Subject: [none]
Al writes:
Don writes in his mystery recipe:
>4 lb Victory or Dark Munich
These are two very different malts and I don't want anyone to get the idea
they are equivalent. Dark Munich is made by kilning green malt at a higher
temperature than that used for Pils, Pale Ale, Vienna or (presumably) lighter
Munich malts. Victory is made similarly to DeWolf-Cosysns Biscuit. They
are made by taking a normally-kilned malt like Pilsner and then roasting it
lightly at high temperatures. The resulting flavours are quite different,
the Victory and Biscuit having a toasty flavour with some similarty to bread
crust.
<snip>
Al.
Could we have a little glossary lesson here? What's the difference between
roasting, toasting and kilning? No slaming my intelligence please, remember
the only dumb question is the one not asked.
========================================================
Kit writes:
>
>Hi, Ted. Being a natural born science major, I went and bought a new pouch
of Wyeast and put it in a 1/2 gal starter after activating. It has taken a
week, but is not clearing. The fermnentation is not nearly as vigorous.
>
> So..... The culture Wyeast is now selling is not the same as they had
originally. I still have a slant of that. I'll be interested to taste any
difference. It acts a lot different than BrewTek's wit and saison as well as
Yeast Labs and GW Kent. I have a slant of Celis from a micro lab in Texas
and it is the same as BrewTek's.(IMHO) Get that yeast. Life will be much
better.
>
- - - ---
>Kit Anderson
This is a phenomenom I have recently discovered with #1968 that used to be
London ESB, now called London Special. Doesn't act like the ESB, does act
like London Ale III. Don't suppose they ever label the envelopes wrong, or
are just lying about this strain. Anyone at Wyeast want to comment on this?
Should I write to them and ask for another London Special and see how it does?
=====================
Charley
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
Charles Burns, Director, Information Systems
Elk Grove Unified School District
cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us, http://www.egusd.k12.ca.us
916-686-7710 (voice), 916-686-4451 (fax)
http://www.el-dorado.ca.us/~cburns/
------------------------------
From: AJUNDE@ccmail.monsanto.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 15:17:09 -0500
Subject: boiling grains
I've been looking for a nice stout receipe lately, and have come
across several that call for boiling the grains for very short periods
of time.
I thought boiling grains was bad, and that tempatures above 170f would
cause the release of tannins. Would somebody wiser please explain!
Also, a nice Guniess or other Irish stout receipe that is a partial
mash and extracts would be apprecieated! This will be my 4th batch,
and I'm not set up to do all grain, the last 3 coming out very well!
Thanks in advance!
Allen
| Allen Underdown - ajunde@ccmail.monsanto.com |
| ITSS WAN Group - Monsanto Chemical Co. |
| Amateur Radio Operator, computer geek, homebrewer and outdoor enthusiast! |
| Try My BBS at 314.939.9445! |
------------------------------
From: "ESCHOVIL.US.ORACLE.COM" <ESCHOVIL@us.oracle.com>
Date: 15 Aug 96 13:49:36 -0700
Subject: Keg Sanitation
Thanks to everyone who answered my question about corny keg sanitation! The
overwhelming majority of people recommended sanitizing the corny keg while it
was still all together with a mixture of water and iodophor by first letting
it sit in the upright position, and then by turning it over to get the other
side. (Make sure the lid is on.) It was also recommended to push in the
valves so that the solution would get into the hard to reach places. It seems
that after rinsing, the keg is then ready to use!
Thanks again, I look forward to kegging again!
Eric Schoville
eschovil@us.oracle.com
------------------------------
From: "Dan Listermann, Cinci OH" <72723.1707@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 15 Aug 96 21:24:13 EDT
Subject: [none]
Mark Bayer asked where he might find the screens used by brewers to judge the
quality of their crush. They are really not very usefull to most homebrewers
,but my set has given me great pleasure!
I bought my set ( all six ( #10, 14, 20 30,60 & 100) with a lid and a pan )
three years ago from Dual Manufacturing. Co., Inc. , 4211-13 N. Elston
Ave.,Chicago, IL 60618. (312) 267-4457 , FAX (312) 267-4521. I seem to recall
paying less than $300 for them. They are lovely and great for proving a point.
If you do get to use a set, please analyize as many mills as you can and post
the results. There are some people who really need to see such things. <G> I
think that almost all homebrewers would be shocked by how fine and difficult to
aproach, even with multiple passes and screenings in between, the textbook
grind as outlined in the "Practical Brewer" is.
Dan Listermann
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Ken Parsons <klondike@sonnet.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 20:33:15 -0700
Subject: (no subject)
Jim Youngmeyer asks about the effect of the Coriolus effect on his
whirlpool.
"This may be the dumbest question ever posted to the HBD."
It's probably not the dumbest but I give it at least an A- for effort.
The Coriolus effect results from the different rotational speeds of
given spots on the Earth due to their latitudes. This effect is
demonstrated by hurricanes which revolve counterclockwise when observed
from above in the Northern hemisphere and clockwise in the Southern
hemisphere.
This effect would be much more difficult to see in water spiraling
down a drain because the difference in rotational speeds are minimal.
You would probably have to make a large number of observations to obtain
enough data to statistically prove that the Coriolus effect was at work
in your sink. You probably could quite easily induce the water to spiral
the opposite direction by swirling it gently by hand or with a whirlpool.
Therefore I conclude that you do not have to worry about this effect
on your efforts to remove the trub from your wort.
However if you drink too much of your tasty brew and see the ceiling
above you spinning in either direction then you may have something to
worry about.
Klondike Ken
------------------------------
From: Warren Schnibbe <schnibbe@cdsnet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 21:18:59 -0700
Subject: (no subject)
Hi there!
This is my first post to the HBD, but I have been lurking here for quite
a while. But the below post kinda got me goin, and so, while I was at
it,
I might as well comment about some other stuff.
> There was a thread here some time ago about restricting posting rights to
> the HBD to its subscribers. Recent posts by this Nokomaree writer show me
> that this measure and any correlative involuntary unsubscribing of that
> writer and any others like that one may be needed.
I don't know who NOKOMAREE is or what he posted, but sometimes the goofy
posts
are the funniest. I don't like censorship in any form, and I can aways
breeze
past the posts I don't want to read anyway. I just hope another
discusion on
a 'lack of activity or content' formula doesn't break out....:)
> I have been trying to find a 10 gallon Gott cooler for sale in my area
> (Wilmington, Delaware). I have been unsuccessful. I just got an ad from Keen
> Compressed Gases advertising, among other things welding-related, 5 and 10
> gallon IGLOO coolers. The 10 gallon is $44.00 and some cents. This looks like
> a good deal, any comments on Igloos for mash tuns?
>
> Mark Warrington
> Tri-State Brewers
Well worth it. I use one, because I brew in 10 gal. batches (5 gallons
just isn't enough,
especially after mashing all day..). You can easily us it for 2 step
mashes by just adding
boiling water for the second step. They hold the temp real good to.
>I thought the collective would like to hear about my stove 'Deal of the
>Century'. I was at an estate sale recently and saw in the corner of the
>basement an old canning stove made by a company called Griswold. I paid
>(without haggling over price) $15 for it and stuck it in the store room
>with intentions of restoring it and using it for homebrewing.
You got a real good deal!! Anything with 'Griswold' on it is a
collector's
item. You can't by a Griswold frying pan for $15.00, or $50.00 for that
matter.
My wife, who freaked when she read the post, says a good Griswold stove
is worth
near $1000.00.
Well, back to the shadows,
Warren Schnibbe
schnibbe@cdsnet.net
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2148
****************************
