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HOMEBREW Digest #2169
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/09/01 PDT
Homebrew Digest Sunday, 1 September 1996 Number 2169
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Re: ??? or "White spotn on your winky dink" !!!! (Don Trotter)
Garage Brewing with NG/ Laxatives (Paul Sovcik)
Re: Request for Recipes: Bigfoot Barleywine and Harpoon IPA (Don Trotter)
Vinegar Cures New Stainless (CRES) Brew ((Curt Schroeder))
Brewpubs/Wineries near San Jose, CA ("Thomas Stolfi")
SorghumFest '96. (Russell Mast)
Re: UV Radiation Sanitizing; Heated Wyeast storage ((Mike Uchima))
Siphoning ((Christian O Miller))
Stainless Steel Brewing pot taste.... (orion@mdc.net)
Cheap stainless (Eugene Sonn)
Moss Beer (orion@mdc.net)
wild hops (PVanslyke@aol.com)
Scotoberfest Lagale (Dave Greenlee)
The Beer Homebrewing Guide (CDROM) (michael j dix)
Wild Hops! (Andrew Quinzani)
[none] ((Mike Urseth))
Time (Komusubi@aol.com)
re: Yeast Question (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
Belgian Brown Ales (Strong Ale) Info? (Richard Gardner)
Re: Lambics??? (Derek Lyons)
Food Dehydrators ((Nathan L. Kanous II))
Wringing Mashes ((John W. Braue, III))
Request: Include hometown in signature (Nancy or Jeff Renner)
More Electrical / Cheap SS (randye@worldnet.att.net)
Ruined Grain (Todd Mansfield)
Brew kits or scratch? ("Pierre A. Dumont")
HBD on CDROM ("Alex Aaron")
Jethro Gump Report- Copyrights (Rob Moline)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Don Trotter <dtrotter@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 14:44:33 -0500
Subject: Re: ??? or "White spotn on your winky dink" !!!!
Seems this has come up before, but Schwab_Bryan@ccmail.ncsc.navy.mil
asks about what appears to be mold on top of the secondary. I've seen
this, but a closer inspection reveals that this is actually foam from
carbon dioxide escaping form the beer (yeast). I would consider other
opinions, since it is not impossible to get such an infection that
could grow mold, or is it??? Is beer not supposed to harbor
pathogens? I have a Cream Ale in secondary not that exhibits this
phenomenon, and have seen it in the past. The beer turned out fine,
and I'm sure this one will too.
don
------------------------------
From: Paul Sovcik <U18183@UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 14:37:37 CDT
Subject: Garage Brewing with NG/ Laxatives
Before I ask my question, I would just like to state that I tend to be an
idiot when having to deal with anything mechanical.
That being said....
I would like to move my brewery into the garage. Currently, I own a 35 qt
SS kettle with an easymasher, one cut off sankey keg, and I have a natural
gas pipe already in my garage.
I would like to get a burner for NG and boil in the sanke keg. I guess
I can get a burner and somehow convert it from propane to NG, but I dont
really know how I can install a TEMPORARY gas line for brewing. It needs to
have mobility, I suppouse - I think I will be attaching this to the gas line
in the corner and brew in the middle of the garage, and Id like to keep it
cheap. Anyone with ideas?
Also, what do I do for a stand? Any simple solutions?
Thanks!
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Also, Al asks which is the laxative, Magnesium or sulfate? The answer is
Magnesium - it is a laxative in all of its various forms, Mg Oxide, Mg sulfate
Mg hydroxide. Sulfate has no specific laxative properties that Im aware of.
I think I know more about laxatives than i should.
- -Paul
Paul Sovcik
Department of Pharmacy Practice
Western Springs, IL PJS@uic.edu
------------------------------
From: Don Trotter <dtrotter@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 14:50:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Request for Recipes: Bigfoot Barleywine and Harpoon IPA
I think I saw an article in some East Coast Brewing rag about Bigfoot
Barleywine being on tap in DC. I'll be glad to see if I still have the
rag lying around and let you know.
don
------------------------------
From: cschroed@ball.com (Curt Schroeder)
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 13:52:17 -0600
Subject: Vinegar Cures New Stainless (CRES) Brew
Bill Richard writes about metallic flavor from his new CRES (stainless)
brewpot.
I too had a similar problem. I bought a CRES brew pot and cleaned it for
use. I started to brew up some wort for a starter. I noticed little black
things in the trub settled on the side of the pot. Some of them were
reflective. This seemed strange since I thought I did a good job cleaning
the pot. I speculate that it was metallic residue from an abrasive process
that was in the microscopic pores and grain boundaries. It had probably not
been passivated after final machining. I noticed that where the wort had
been it was brighter. Wort being acidic and passivation being an acid bath
I decided to cleaned the pot with vinegar and no more black or mettalic crud
Moral: Clean new CRES equipment with acidic solutions.
Happy Lay-beer Day Weekend
Curt Schroeder
------------------------------
From: "Thomas Stolfi" <IBrew2@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 19:52:54 UT
Subject: Brewpubs/Wineries near San Jose, CA
I am lucky enough to be in San Jose for business in Mid September. I will
also have a day or two to do what I want, hit some brewpubs. If you know of
any Brewpubs/Micros/Wineries within an hour or so of San Jose please privately
email me at IBREW2@MSN.COM. Thanks in Advance.
Tom
------------------------------
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 15:14:06 -0500
Subject: SorghumFest '96.
> From: Michel Vandenplas <mvdp@maties.sun.ac.za>
> Subject: Sorghum Beer Challenge
>
> The only possible problem that I can foresee could be with custom clearance
> of the malt by the 3 challenge takers. Any opinions?
I know a fellow in Canada (originally from Benin, I think) who reguarly
brews sorghum beer and is working hard at duplicating the traditional taste
using what he has up there. So, well, we can probably find some ourselves
with a bit of effort.
> More importantly, any takers?
Of course.
> Russel you may get your wish after all.
I always get my way, even when I desire people to mispel my name.
By the way, the description (yours?) I read of sorghum beer here a
week or so ago, that it was cloudy, nasty, undrinkable, et cetera,
sounds an awful lot like many people's first impression of Lambic.
(Often their LAST impression, too.)
Two-thirds of the world's population goes poop in a squatting position.
Most of the other third thinks that's really icky and weird. We also
tend to get a lot of colon cancer.
Also, if there ARE any takers on this, I'll try to get ahold of my buddy
in Canada - he's been working on a culture to duplicate the sorghum beer
he used to get back home. I'll have to dig up his address. It's around
in my archives somewhere.
> Bill? Terry? We're waiting :-)
I'd be thrilled to host the first homebrew competetion specifically for
sorghum beers. But where to find qualified judges?
- -Russellll Mast
copyright 1996 Nelson Mandela
------------------------------
From: uchima@fncrd8.fnal.gov (Mike Uchima)
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 15:25:54 -0500
Subject: Re: UV Radiation Sanitizing; Heated Wyeast storage
"Toler, Duffy L." <TOLERD@cdnet.cod.edu> wrote:
> After looking through the latest catalog from American Science & Surplus (no
> affiliation, blah blah), I was intrigued by a product listed as "Germicidal
> Cabinet". A steel cabinet, 24" X 18" X 9" with 4 wire shelves and a double
> door with locks. An automatic timer zaps the inside with mild radiation for
> 15 minutes. The price is $175. They claim it kills 99+% of the bacteria
> present.
>
> Do any of our biological gurus have any opinion on how effective this would
> be for sterilizing bottles, smaller pieces of equipment, etc.?
If it's using UV radiation, wouldn't it only be effective on items which are
transparent to UV (or nearly so)? Doesn't glass filter out certain wavelengths
of UV (which might render it ineffective for sanitizing the *insides* of the
bottles)?
Cory Wright <cwright@midcom.anza.com> sez:
> I carried six small jars of propogated Weihenstephans around for about six
> months in a cooler in the trunk of my car (through the middle of the
> summer). It had been kept in my refrigerator for about three months prior.
> No, I don't make any claim to actual intelligence, at least regarding these
> actions. I was in the middle of job search, job find, move to job location,
> etc. I take the approach with my brewing of "what the heck, try it", so I
> did, and it seems that the silly stuff was still viable. Believe it, or
> not...
The Weihenstephan yeast seems to be crazy stuff... I once pitched a batch
straight from a pack of Wyeast #3068 (no starter), and by the following
morning, it was spraying foam all over the place. The airlock was literally
*hissing*, and there was about a 4 foot "blast radius" of beer & foam on the
floor around the fermenter. (This followup actually has very little to do with
hot storage of yeast, but given what happened to me, I'm not surprised that
the Weihenstephan yeast is tough to kill. :-))
- -- Mike Uchima
- -- uchima@fncrd8.fnal.gov
------------------------------
From: comiller@juno.com (Christian O Miller)
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 16:52:27 PST
Subject: Siphoning
Time for my two cents on SIPHONS. I just read somebody's post about
something and there was mention of a stuck siphon. I had that problem,
but last week think I found a cure, a way to keep the siphon tube full
of free-flowing wort when racking. Allow me to pass this on and if it's
painfully obvious, ignore it. As I suck some wort into the tube I stand
up and let the tube hang below me so it fills up partially. Then I
quickly stick it into the fermenter or whatever (so you spill, some, you
can clean it up) As it flows into the container, if air forms in the tube
I just pinch it and the air is flushed out, leaving a solid stream of
wort. Keep pinching at the air spots until the whole tube is solid with
flowing wort, top to bottom. Hope that helps anyone, or someone.
CHRISTIAN MILLER
comiller@juno.com
Brewin' in Durham (Conn)
------------------------------
From: orion@mdc.net
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:24:43 -0400
Subject: Stainless Steel Brewing pot taste....
Bill Richard said:
>I am new to this group and have a question that someone out there may be able
>to answer. I have always brewed with an enameled brewpot and recently bought a
>stainless steel brewpot. The problem is this: now when I make a batch of beer
>it seems to have a metallic flavor to it. Is this because of the stainless?
>The pot didn't cost alot ($25), is it "cheap" stainless? What should I do to
>prevent this problem in the future?
Most of the cheap pots that I have seen (including the two that I own) have
aluminum rivets that hold the handles to the sides of the pot. Those rivets
(if your boil reaches the aluminum) can be the source of off flavors. Also,
many low cost type manufacturers, instead of passivating the pots correctly
(nitric acid) will go for a lesser cleaning, or even use the stainless "as
drawn", counting on the sheet stock supplier to have done his job in
providing passivated sheet stock. The drawing process requires a lubricant,
which may not have been cleaned off completely by you or by them. A
THOUROUGH cleaning is in order with any new cookware of this sort. But my
guess is that the alumininum rivets caused the problem.
OD
Orville Deutchman
Brewer of Down Under Ale!
Hobby Brewing at its Finest!
I'm relaxing, and having a homebrew!
orion@mdc.net
------------------------------
From: Eugene Sonn <eugene@dreamscape.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:46:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Cheap stainless
I don't want to start a flame war, but it seems to me that all cheap
stainless steel pots are not created equal. I bought a very thin-gague
stainless pot (5 gallon) to do my partial mash/extract brewing in. It
only cost about $17. There's been no detectable metallic taste and I've
made fruit beers, stouts, octoberfests and alts with this pot. None have
had the bad characteristics experienced by our fellow HBDer. What I would
be careful of, is where the handles are attached to the pot. Many
manufacturers say you should not fill the pot above the rivet points.
Maybe something got into your beer from there....from the rivets or
sealer. Just another thing to be careful about. Certainly buying the
more expensive pots will assure you not to have thes troubles, but for me
it was worth the 17 dollar gamble on a cheapo one.
Eugene Sonn
------------------------------
From: orion@mdc.net
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:36:57 -0400
Subject: Moss Beer
>John Posing writes:
>>moving them, I noticed that yeast had clung to one side of each bottle
>>and that it was always oriented in the same direction, NE. Can someone
>>explain why?
>
Someone responded:
>I believe that if it were Spruce beer and the yeast clings to the north side
>of the bottle that you have a moss infection.
This is true only in the Northern Hemisphere. Were the beer produced in the
Southern Hemisphere, the yeast would either be on the South side of the
bottle, or have a distinct drawl. I would suggest sending the entire batch
here for further analysis....
OD
Orville Deutchman
Brewer of Down Under Ale!
Hobby Brewing at its Finest!
I'm relaxing, and having a homebrew!
orion@mdc.net
------------------------------
From: PVanslyke@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:58:49 -0400
Subject: wild hops
Hi all
Firstly I would like to thank the continuing efforts of all those who make
this area possible. I never read the digest without learning something new.
If the information becomes too technical for me, I just pass it upx sometime
in the future, that same info may be just what I'm looking for.
I just finished picking some wild hops which grow about a tenth of a mile
from my house. Today's effort will yeild about an ounce and a half dry
weight. A couple weeks ago I gathered 4 and a half ounces (dry).
Does anyone know how to treat the root I also gathered today (about eight
feet, one half inch to 5/8 inch diameter, with many rizome areas)?
TIA
Paul <<<Brewing and relaxing in Deposit, NY
------------------------------
From: Dave Greenlee <daveg@mail.airmail.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 15:28:06 -0500
Subject: Scotoberfest Lagale
I was hoping that I might obtain some comments on the following recipie
for my proposed Scotoberfest Lagale:
One of:
6 lb Marie's Munich Extract (50% Munich, 50% 2-row)
or
3.3 lb Bierkeller dark extract and 2.7 lb Briess light extract
or
6.6 lb Ireks Light Munich extract
and
7 oz Victory
4 oz Special B
3 oz 120L American crystal
4 oz Peat-smoked malt (prob. Hugh Baird)
6 HBU Fuggles @ 60 minutes
4 HBU Fuggles @ 20 minutes
Wyeast 1338
OG 1.060
My idea was to emphasize the toasty and caramel flavors with the 120L and
the Special B, while punching up the malt flavor with the Victory. I've
also thought of putting a bit of flaked barley in to increase the body
somewhat.
My other idea was to substitute 7 ounces of Belgian Aromatic and 4 ounces
of American Special Roast for the Victory and Special B, again perhaps
with some flaked barley, retaining the peated malt, but I don't have a
local source for either the Aromatic or the Special Roast and hate to pay
shipping just for 11 ounces of malt.
Remembering that I'm trying to make a brew with the toasty
characteristics of an Oktoberfest (somewhat exaggerated so as to be
noticable through the caramel flavors), the caramel characteristics of a
Scotch Ale, and the intensely malty character of both, what do you think
of my three versions of extract choices and their proportions and,
second, of the two versions of my specials and their proportions?
Also remembering that this is only my second batch of beer and that I'm a
newbie, I need HELP!
Nazdrowie,
Dave
------------------------------
From: michael j dix <mdix@dcssc.sj.hp.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 16:08:58 PDT
Subject: The Beer Homebrewing Guide (CDROM)
Doubters:
Point your browsers at www.qrz.com/beer_cd.html, and read:
The first edition of "The Beer Homebrewing Guide" is now available on
CDROM.
<megasnip>
Over 6 years worth of back issues of the electronic digest"The Homebrew Digest"
are presented, also
in hypertext with complete keyword search capability. This gives seamless and
easy access to the
collective knowledge and experiences of hundreds of experienced home brewers
from around the
world.
<more megasnip to the end of the page>
I don't suppose Al K is getting any residuals from Walnut Creek Software,
for his considerable contributions to the HBD. They are charging $29.95
for this, so money is changing hands (tho the HBD is just part of the CDROM
info, per this web page.)
Mike Dix
------------------------------
From: Andrew Quinzani <quinzani@mdc.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 19:00:49 -0400
Subject: Wild Hops!
I had the pleasure of picking a bag of wild hops near my home yesterday...I
would not say that they are wild in the sence that you can't tell what they
are as they are Willamette hops. I am in the prosses of drying them in my
dehydrator and they smell GOOD! A friend of mine and myself know of a few
local places that have hops growing as the area (north eastern MA) at one
time was THE place to grow hops untill bugs and blight sent the growers to
WA. state. So if you are so lucky to find wild hops...go for it! I can
hardly wait to use a few fist-fulls!
-=Q=-
"Q" Brew Brewery...Home of Hairy Chest Ale
- ------------------------------------------------------------
quinzani@mdc.net
------------------------------
From: beernote@realbeer.com (Mike Urseth)
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 19:06:23 -0600
Subject: [none]
From: mikehu@lmc.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 11:28:10 PDT
Kevin O'Connor asks:
>Question: Has anyone on this collective used 15.5 gal half barrels
>for kegging homebrew?
>If you have any information
>regarding using these kegs, I'd greatly appreciate it.
>They work great. I use them for both primary fermenters and serving tanks.
>
>A size 11 rubber stopper will fit the bung perfectly.
>You can cut the retaining ring into two pieces, which will make removing and
>replacing it easier. I've been looking for a snap ring that will fit, but have
>not found one yet. (if anyone knows what size to use, please let me know!)
>
>Mike H. in Portland, OR
>mikehu@synopsys.com
>copyright 1996, SANKEY, inc.
I have one that is reputed to fit (haven't had a chance to try it yet).
It's marked I-200 and measures 2-3/16" (We don't need no steeenking metric
system.)
Good luck.
Mike Urseth
Editor & Publisher
Midwest Beer Notes
339 Sixth Avenue
Clayton, WI 54004
715-948-2990 ph.
715-948-2981 fax
e-mail: beernote@realbeer.com
------------------------------
From: Komusubi@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 21:16:18 -0400
Subject: Time
Thanks to all of you who helped with the answer as to a secondary fermenter.
Now for my next question. How long does one wait before racking to the
secondary? Is it dependent on the activity in the airlock? If so what do you
look for, timing the air bubbles? Thanks
New brewbie
------------------------------
From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter@web.camasnet.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 19:40:56 -0700
Subject: re: Yeast Question
>>
I have noticed that, and I am assuming this, when the yeast converts the
sugars to CO2 and alcohol generates heat which in turn is increasing the
temperature of the fermenting beer. I see this more in my ales than in my
lagers due to the fermentation rate. My question is what is the best method
of keeping the beer at the desired temp. other than overcompensating by
reducing the ambient temp. below the desired temp. and keeping a close eye
on the temp. of the fermenting beer. Any suggestions would be appreciated
as I would like to have just a little more control over one more of the
variables.
<<
I start my ales at the desired primary fermentation temperature. When I see
the first signs of fermentation (foam covering to top or that first bubble
out of the airlock) I reduce the temperature of my fermentation room by
~4-8 degrees (depending on the starting gravity of the wort - the higher
the SG, the more heat generated by fermentation). My fermentation room is
a small closet (when we bought the house, it was advertised as a 1/4 bath!)
in the basement that stays at 50F in the winter and 60F in the summer. I
use a portable heater to control the ambient temperature. I do the same
thing for lagers but in a thermostatically controlled refrigerator (you are
correct, lagers hardly show the heat generation effects). I have heard of
people using wet towels and fans to produce evaporative cooling, but if you
want control over the process, this won't give you much.
Dan Ritter
ritter@camasnet.com
Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery
Grangeville, Idaho
------------------------------
From: Richard Gardner <rgardner@monarch.papillion.ne.us>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 23:28:19 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Belgian Brown Ales (Strong Ale) Info?
Does anyone have a good source of info on this style? I'm planning on
making a Belgian Brown Ale similar to Corsendonk or Saint Landelin Brown
Abbey Ale this Fall after the temperatures drop and would appreciate any
tips or sucessful recipes. Searching Cat's Meow 3 was unsucessful - lots of
British Brown Ales though. Also, is the Brewers Pubs book "Belgian Ale" by
P. Rajotte a good resource for these styles? I can't remember if it was
this book or the Lambic book that I've seen complaints about.
So far, my rough recipe would be (5 US gal):
9 lbs Belgian 2-row Pilsner malt (DeW-C)
1 lb light Munich Malt (maybe more, or maybe dark?)
2 oz Special B
1 lb Brown Sugar (variety? - Turbinado?)
8 Oz Crystal (60L)
Wyeast Belgian Ale, ferment at 60F
1 oz Hallertau (Bittering)
1 oz Stry Goldings (Bittering)
1/2 oz Saaz aroma
A quick run through in SUDS at n=80% gives:
OG=1.070
IBU=37
color=16 - but not sure if the above would really give me the brown color
I'm looking for.
Any comments/critiques
------------------------------
From: Derek Lyons <elde@hurricane.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 22:22:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Lambics???
At 04:18 PM 8/28/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
> I am a fairly new homebrewer and, despite this fact, myself a few fellow
>homebrewers are interested in brewing up a Lambic. We have done some
>reading and realize this to be quite an undertaking, but wish to try it
>anyway. Does anyone have any advice on how we might get started, any
>recipes, tips etc.?
>
>Michael W. Jones
>keni.mo@worldnet.att.net
>
Subscribe to the Lambic Digest;
lambic-request@lance.colostate.edu (subscription requests only - do not post
here)
------------------------------
From: nkanous@tir.com (Nathan L. Kanous II)
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 07:24:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Food Dehydrators
Greetings to the collective! Who out there has experience using a home food
dehydrator for drying hops? How well does it work? Etc. etc. etc. Any info
will be helpful. TIA. Private e-mail just fine.
Nathan
------------------------------
From: braue@ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III)
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 10:04:59
Subject: Wringing Mashes
In HBD #2165, Billy Cole wrote an article entitled "Wrinnging
hop/grain bags". This inspired (inflamed?) my brain with a
question. Two of the early steps in bewing are mashing and
sparging. Could sparging be replacing with a draining of the mash
under pressure?
There is of a course a reason for sparging in the traditional way
(there's always a reason). But is it a good reason? (Not all
reasons are good ones). I can see some potential reasons why a
"forced sparge" would be bad, and some potential replies to the
objections:
* Forced sparging would not extract all the fermentable sugars from
the mash (would loss of efficiency be that great? Would two or
three forced sparges do the trick?)
* Forced sparging would result in various gunk (bits of husk,
starch, excessive tannins, etc.) in the wort (couldn't the wort be
filtered?)
* Equipment for forced sparging would be too expensive for even the
most dedicated homebrewer (but how about on a commercial scale?)
Does anyone know if forced sparging has ever been done?
- --
John W. Braue, III braue@ratsnest.win.net
jbraue9522@aol.com
I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work
miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified.
------------------------------
From: Nancy or Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 12:44:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Request: Include hometown in signature
HBDers
It looks like it's about time to make the semiannual request that
contributors include their location in their posts. It makes for a better
sense of community and may even help in answering a question.
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
------------------------------
From: randye@worldnet.att.net
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 11:20:53 -0800
Subject: More Electrical / Cheap SS
Dick Dunn made a few comments about my electrical element post and
he's right: Ohm's law (V equals I*R) does not completely and exactly
describe this electrical system because the element _does_ have a
reactive component, and there are heating effects and other
non-linearities.
I assumed that the 5500W stamped on the element is a steady state
rating and as such approximates the power through it under load.
And I stand by my original statement (or what I meant anyway):
A given element rated for 240 V will draw about 1/2 the current if
connected at 120 V and will draw about 1/4 of the power.
All this, remember, in response to a post stating that there was some
inherent danger associated with using this 240 V element at 120 V due
to its "industrial strength" classification or some such. I did and
still do disagree with this premise.
Dick also made a valuable point about the ratings of the electrical
circuits:
Dick sez:
>>> So if you are on a 15A circuit, you want to be sure that your wiring
is healthy and you're not trying to run much else on the same
circuit. In almost all normal cases, there's no dire danger...it's
no worse than when you start the coffeepot and the toaster on the
same circuit at the same time, and it pops a breaker. There are
safety nets; you just want to stay out of 'em.
<<<
I agree completely. The 80 % rule of thumb I specified is for single
loads on a given circuit (like window A/C units and the like). For
multiple use circuits (i.e. garage and half the living room on the
same breaker) you'd want even more cushion. Make sure you have
adequate capacity or install a dedicated circuit.
RANDY > Basically most >home panels are rated for 100 A or more and the first
line > of
protection is the fuse on the transformer primary which is sized to
> allow 150 percent overload or so...
DICK:>>> Few homes are on their own
transformers. The first line of protection is the per circuit
breaker (15 or 20 A) which is protecting the wiring to the outlet.
Second line of protection is the 100A or more mains breaker; if
that pops you have screwed up big time or you had a bad single
circuit breaker. Don't even think about how big a screwup it takes
to hit the transformer. <<<
My point was that the original poster/authority/salesman advocated
wiring the element directly to the panel!!!!! Conveniently bypassing
the circuit protection and the conceivably the main. Which would
rely on the transformer protection which I agree is pretty scary. Not a good
practice.
********************************
Someone asked about metallic flavors from a cheap SS pot. I've used
one of these for a couple with no problems. I noticed on mine that
it was lighty coated with machine oil, barely noticable -- which washed off
easily with a little detergent. Could this be a factor?
Cheers -- Randy in Modesto
------------------------------
From: Todd Mansfield <102444.1032@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 31 Aug 96 17:35:39 EDT
Subject: Ruined Grain
I store my malt in garbage cans with reasonably tight-fitting lids.
This has always worked well...until now.
Today I went downstairs to do a grain inventory and discovered a bag of
ordinary household garbage in my main malt bin. The bin's other contents
were ~10Kg each of Durst and Edme pale malts. I opened the malt bags up
and sat them on the porch to air out for a few hours, then gave each a
quick odor check. Result: roughly equal proportions of malt aroma and
putrescence. The bugs in my compost pile are in for a bonanza.
I mention this sad story for a couple of reasons...(1) Often there is no
better instrument to tell whether a particular brewing ingredient (malt,
hops, yeast starters, water) "is ruined" than your own nose and (2)it's
a good idea to mark grain storage bins as such, especially when they
look like garbage cans to the "untrained" eye and you have houseguests
who help out with domestic chores.
Todd Mansfield
102444.1032@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: "Pierre A. Dumont" <pierre_dumont@unb.ca>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 20:13:43 -0300
Subject: Brew kits or scratch?
I have just started to get into brewing my own beer. Right now I
buy brew kits like Mutton and Fission's (American Style Light or
Lager). In Canada these kits go for about $15 to $20, and I can make
about 60 bottles. Compared to buying brand name beer at ~$17 for a
case of 12.
I was wondering what the cost comparison is to making your beer from
scratch. And also how can I get the ingredients and do I have to buy
any extra equipment.
Being a university student these kits are great because they don't
take much time plus they taste pretty good too.
Anybody wish to give advice or comment?
_________________________
Pierre A. Dumont
221-602 Graham Ave.
Fredericton, NB E3B 4C3
phone/fax: (506)455-4988
pierre_dumont@unb.ca
_________________________
------------------------------
From: "Alex Aaron" <alex@checkmaster.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 19:42:04 -0700
Subject: HBD on CDROM
To the collective,
The HBD does exist on CDROM.
The Beer Homebrewing Guide, August 1994
ISBN 1-57176-063-6
Walnut Creek CDROM
Suite 260,
1547 Palos Verdes Mall
Walnut Creek, CA 94596
USA
Phone: (510) 674-0783
FAX (510) 674-0821
email: info@cdrom.com
The Beer Homebrewing Guide published by Walnut Creek CDROM, has back issues
of the HBD in Windows .HLP format, going from 1989 to 1994. It also has the
Cats Meow in .HLP format.
When I started brewing over 3 years ago, I read all I could about brewing.
My dad
would download stuff off of Compuserve for me since I did not belong to any
online services. By brother-in-law got me the CD as a gift. I read through
all the
digests and got a feel for every one on the digest, Al, Kinney, Jack, John
the
cosmic coyote, and a whole lot of different people. Now copyright is a
touchy
subject, but without the CD I would not have had the knowledge base I
needed to
improve by beers. When I finally got an email address, Nov. 1995, I
subscribed to
the Home Brew Digest, Lambic Digest, and the Mead Lovers Digest. Now the
names I
used to see in the HBD help files, I see in most of the posts now, and am
happy
there still here to guide and direct brewers.
Now while I don't read every digest word for word (PgDn Key) I do zip the
files
and save them. Because what doesn't interest me today, could answer a
question
I have later.
Thanks to every one for a good experience.
(Standard Disclaimer)
Alex Aaron
alex@checkmaster.com
http://www.checkmaster.com/internetchecks/alex/
------------------------------
From: Rob Moline <brewer@kansas.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 22:23:46 -0500
Subject: Jethro Gump Report- Copyrights
The Jethro Gump Report
>From: brian.wurst@aquila.com (BRIAN WURST)
>
>At the request of my wife (an attorney) I must now stand up and state
>that I am not "the guy" who put the HBD on CD-ROM. I "confessed" to it
>just to view the righteous indignation of those who believe such a disk
>exists.
Gee, Brian...I don't know about "Righteous indignation," .... ;-)
or the need to view that of others, but Jethro's just a good ole boy who
takes people at their word. Like I stated, I think it would be a good idea
to put the bloody thing on CD-Rom...if possible...
Until you bragged of it, I never knew such an item did
exist...(Where can I buy one?)
But, thank God, someone in the family has some sense!
>Jethro Gump weighs in with his opinions,
>ending with"...bring on the lawyers!" Remember, calling your attorney
>racks up billable time and he/she isn't going to forget when they find
>out I was pulling your leg.
I guess ole Jethro ain't entitled to an opinion, no more.....not
since Brian's decided I don't deserve one....I merely pointed out that such
matters are subject to legal review at this time ...and as Jethro 's opinion
isn't precedent setting, I guess, as I assume your wife does...that it might
just be the arena ruled by attorneys that has the last word on the subject...
BTW, is your wife available for a retainer?.......Jethro might need
an attorney for daring to speak his mind....
>Quitcherbitchin!
Thanks, Brian! Before this moment, I just thought I was exercising
my opinion...now I know I was bitchin! At last, a purpose for my miserable
existence!
>Nobody's making any money
>off the HBD, except those who have improved their brewing skills to the
>point of going pro...and that ain't copyright infringement!
And Jethro has been thankful to the collective, for their
assistance, and has publically stated the same....but then, if you knew my
boss, then you'd know that ole Jethro ain't making no money!!!
>Al has good brewing advice in general so I can't call him a lunatic,
And I'm sure that Al is ever so pleased! But as for the rest of us,
I know we are thankful to you for slotting us in a category of your choice!
>And if y'all are so concerned about copyrights, then
>why are you quoting from DeClerck, Richman, Foster, Zymurgy, Brewing
>Techniques, etc. Did you get express permission from the authors of
>those texts to quote from them? Hypocrisy, I tell ya.
Why, yes, for the only article I have ever posted in it's entirety
to the HBD, from Foster...I did indeed speak to him on the phone and get his
"express permission" to post the article...as I also did from the
editor/publisher of the journal in which I found the article...
I have in the past and will in the future continue to quote excerpts
from info I think the collective will find interesting...and from beer
related articles of "Breweriana,".....
And as I have always done in the past, I shall continue to attribute
these snippets of info to the originators...I believe that this falls in the
category of 'educational purposes'...I have actually received thanks from
some of them for spreading the news that they even existed!
>It's all been loads of fun but it should stop now. If ya wanna continue
>whining about this, lets go offline....
Gee, Brian, I didn't know that we 'were having fun'...I thought we
were responding with our 'opinions' to a matter that actually deserves some
thought....OH, I SEE, YOU were having fun, and you thought it was at OUR
expense!
Oh, well...see ya later...I'm off to the local cinema to yell "FIRE"....
Jethro still believes..without any prompting from those who won't be
accountable for their own utterances...that the HBD on CD-ROM would be a
wonderful thing, if it is do-able. I agree with others suggestion that any
funds accrued from such an undertaking be used to maintain the costs of
running the affair...or be donated to any charitable enterprise.
But Brian..are you sure your name ain't NOKOMAREE? ;_)
Cheers!
Jethro (apparently lacking the right to an opinion) Gump...
Copyright.J.Gump, 1996
I am a humourless bastard!
Cheers!
Rob Moline
Little Apple Brewing Company
Manhattan, Kansas
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about
beer!"
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2169
****************************
