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HOMEBREW Digest #2165
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/08/29 PDT
Homebrew Digest Thursday, 29 August 1996 Number 2165
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Lambics??? ("Michael W. Jones")
CP filler ((Jeff Sturman))
Brewbie/Basic Info/Time/Agitation (Glen MacNamara)
CBS comp anouncement ((Tom Fitzpatrick))
just my 2 cents on the boilover thread (Mike Weintraub)
Wringing hop/grain bags ((Billy Cole))
Dry hopping (WattsBrew@aol.com)
Heater Voltage (orion@mdc.net)
In Need of A Recipe (<Ron_Barbercheck@MB01.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM>)
Re: Boiling Over ((J. Matthew Saunders))
Gypsum (Nancy or Jeff Renner)
copyright (bob rogers)
Strange yeast question ("John M. Posing")
Brewing water still ((William P Giffin))
wyeast 1728 ((Greg Douhan))
Overnight mashes (Captain)
GELATINE (Jack Schmidling)
Re: Fementowhat? ("Preston M W (Mike)")
Sorghum beer - an SA homebrewer's point of view (Michel Vandenplas)
German Purity Law and Water ("DICK KUZARA")
microwaving to sterilize? ((Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt)))
RE: Reinheitsgebot (Bill Ridgely 301-827-1391 FAX 301-827-3053)
Copyright Al (c) ((BRIAN WURST))
Berkeley Brews (Douglas Thomas)
Boiling stones (Domenick Venezia)
Copyrights online (Derek Lyons)
figuring SO4 ppm from gypsum additions (Gregory King)
Boiling over (guym@Exabyte.COM)
Jet burners (guym@Exabyte.COM)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Michael W. Jones" <keni.mo@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:18:32 -0500
Subject: Lambics???
Hello,
I am a fairly new homebrewer and, despite this fact, myself a few fellow
homebrewers are interested in brewing up a Lambic. We have done some
reading and realize this to be quite an undertaking, but wish to try it
anyway. Does anyone have any advice on how we might get started, any
recipes, tips etc.?
Michael W. Jones
keni.mo@worldnet.att.net
------------------------------
From: brewshop@coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 15:28:37 -0600
Subject: CP filler
I thought I saw plans to assemble a CP filler once on the interent, but
after a few days of looking for them I am empty handed. Does anybody know
where those plans can be found? I know they are in a back issue of Zymurgy
but it would be much easier to get them off the internet. email is
probably best.
TIA
jeff
------------------------------
From: Glen MacNamara <gmac@websys.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:04:00 -0400
Subject: Brewbie/Basic Info/Time/Agitation
My pal and I are new brewbies, and have been reading the Digest for
a few weeks and learning a lot. We've done about 6 or 7 batches with
some success, and we now have a disagreement on some of what is going
on.
Currently, our process goes about like this: boil ~1.5 gal water,
add can liquid malt (usu 3.3 lbs dark or amber), add bag dry malt
(usu 3 lbs dark or amber), and boil ~15 min. Add hops (usu ~12% AA)
and boil ~20 min. Usually we add ~5 lbs honey at this point (we both
like it strong, and hope to get some of the flavor). Then add hops
in hop bag, boil about 10 min more. Big plastic bucket for a week,
then carboy for a week, then bottle. The sludge is left behind for
both racking and bottling.
Item: We're both pretty broke right now, and can't invest in new
equipment for a while.
Item: There's a lot of people drinking the brew (especially me),
so it disappears nearly as fast as it gets created.
Problem: He wants better beer through aging, I want more beer faster.
Question: The bittering hops are loose in the wort and go into the
primary fermenter. Is this good, bad, or indifferent?
What effect would extending the time on these (used) hops
have?
Question: What effect would extending the time in the secondary have?
There usually isn't any bubbling (or very slow) after the
week in the primary, and none at all after a week in the
secondary. Is there benefit to letting it sit longer before
bottling?
Question: We made a 'blond' beer (usually we make dark). When we
racked it to the secondary, my friend commented how it was
difficult to tell the difference between it and the mead
next to it (both a sunny yellow). The carboys stay in a
fairly dark, cool, extra bathroom downstairs. When we came
back to bottle a week later, it had turned DARK. VERY DARK.
What happened?? BTW, we bottled it anyway, and haven't
tasted it yet.
Question: I've read numerous entries on how to safely bubble the beer
using airpumps, airstones, and whatnot. Why? What benefit
is there in A) oxygenating the beer or B) agitating (gently
shaking, not insulting) the beer?
My apologies if any of these are so obvious anyone should know them,
or if they are a recent thread and I missed it somehow, or if I
misunderstood the recent 'bubbling' thread. Please email me at
gmac@websys.com if you do not want to bloat the digest with loads
of basic info.
Thanks much!!
------------------------------
From: fitz@fasicsv.fnal.gov (Tom Fitzpatrick)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:44:47 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: CBS comp anouncement
1996 National Homebrew Club of the Year,
The Chicago Beer Society presents:
Spooky Brew Review '96
A BJCP Registered Homebrew Competition
To be held at:
FOUNDERS HILL BREWING CO.
5200 MAIN ST.
DOWNERS GROVE,IL 60515
Entry forms available:
Tom Fitzpatrick
728 Concord St.
Aurora, IL 60505
(630)896-6255
fitz@fnal.gov
AHA National or similar recipe forms and bottle labels acceptable.
RULES & REGULATIONS
Entries: Two (2) brews in appropriate bottles constitute an entry.
Acceptable bottles include 10 - 14 ounce, green or brown bottles only.
Caps must be blank or blacked out with indelible marker. Attach an
appropriate label by rubber band (no tape), filled out completely and
legibly, to each bottle entered. Entry is open to all homebrewed beers,
meads, and ciders not brewed on commercial property.
Entry deadline: Entries will be accepted between October 5 and 19.
Walk-in entries will be accepted only if preregistered by sending in
entry/recipe form(s) and fees by the competition deadline.
Categories: Brews will be judged according to the categories/subcategories
used for the 1996 AHA National Homebrew Competition. Ribbons will be awarded to
the top three (3) brews in each category receiving at least 25 points. All
first place beers will advance to the Best of Show round where the top
three beers will be recognized and the Best of Show winner will receive a
special ribbon and prize. As in years past, a Spooky Beer category is
available.
A prize will be awarded to the scariest brew entered. A new category is also
available this year: the Smashed Pumpkin category (Worst of Show award).
Send us your absolute worst beer (we've all made mistakes) and the winner
(or loser, if you will) will receive a prize. All brews must be drinkable!!
Fees: The fee per entry is $5.00, or $4.00 each when entering 5 or more brews.
Entry fee for the SPOOKY and SMASHED PUMPKIN category are only $1.00! Send or
hand deliver entry/recipe form(s), fees, and bottles to Founders Hill Brewing
Co.
at the above address and to the attention of the Brewmaster - Spooky Brew
Review.
Make checks payable to Chicago Beer Society.
Judges: Anyone interested in judging at this competition should contact
Tom Fitzpatrick by mail, phone, or e-mail as shown above.
*Remember, this competition is one of only five competitions in the Midwest
that
determine Midwest Homebrewer of the Year! Good luck and good brewing!
- -Tom Fitzpatrick
BJCP Competition Director
------------------------------
From: Mike Weintraub <weintrau@lifesci.lscf.ucsb.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:42:55 -0700
Subject: just my 2 cents on the boilover thread
There is a technique that I find quite effective in preventing boil overs
that I have not seen anyone else mention. I wait to add the hops until the
wort is boiling vigorously. This seems to prevent the foam at the top from
getting as thick, probably due to the strong convection currents in the brew
pot. I have not had a boil over since I started doing this.
Mike Weintraub
weintrau@lifesci.lscf.ucsb.edu
------------------------------
From: Billy_Cole@dgii.com (Billy Cole)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:29:43 +0100
Subject: Wringing hop/grain bags
I brew partial grain beers and have developed a baseline routine that I
use for all my beers. I usually fill my grain bag with my grains and bring
it up to 150-160 for about 45 minutes before adding extract and bringing
to a boil. During this initial 45 minutes, I bring another gallon of water to
around 175 in a separate pot. I have a fear of missing out on some sugars
when I pull my grain bag out of the boiling pot so I pour the 1 gallon of
water over the grain bag while holding the grain bag in the air. Then I
squeeze the heck out of the grain bag with my hands (yes, it hurts) to
get all I can from the grain bag. with 4 lbs. of grains in there, there is alot
of wort hiding in that bag. Am I causing aeartion when I shouldn't be?
Also, is this necessary on my part? I do the same with my hop bags. I
don't want to lose out on any hop character anywhere. Am I blowing it
or does everyone do it this way? Thanks for any help.
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Billy Cole / Senior Engineer / Digi International
ph: 206-867-3893x628 / pager: 206-663-0229
billyc@dgii.com
------------------------------
From: WattsBrew@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:34:08 -0400
Subject: Dry hopping
Good day brewers,
I am about to try dry hopping for the first time. I am using homegrown
hops. The hops have already been dried and are packaged in the freezer. The
question I have is "do the hops need any special attention or should I just
chuck them in the secondary?, also is there any risk of contamination from
homegrown hops?."
Your collective wisdom is greatly appreciated.
Brewing in Lancaster, NY - Bill Watt
------------------------------
From: orion@mdc.net
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:45:02 -0400
Subject: Heater Voltage
Kelly Jones Remarked about heater costs:
>While checking out the Web Pages of PlumbingSupply.com (I'm ordering some
>stainless fittings for my brew system) I noticed they supply the elements
>discussed here recently for RIMS heaters (see
>http://PlumbingSupply.Com/elements.html ). They have extra low density,
>Incoloy elements (5500W @ 240V) for 24.95. No affiliation, not even a
>customer until today.
Kelly, et al....
All well and good if you are propared to deal with a whopping 240 volts!
This is not a toy that gets plugged into the 115 volt outlet! You carefully
wire it direct into your panel, and hope for the best. Don't get stung by
this baby! This is a commercial heater with commercial applications. I wouls
stay away from it for casual home brewing....
OD
Orville Deutchman
Brewer of Down Under Ale!
Hobby Brewing at its Finest!
I'm relaxing, and having a homebrew!
orion@mdc.net
------------------------------
From: <Ron_Barbercheck@MB01.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM>
Date: 28 Aug 96 20:11:56 EDT
Subject: In Need of A Recipe
Has anyone ever seen a recipe for or made beer with the herb *Cost
Mary* (also known as Bible Leaf)? I have an herb garden with 2 huge
plants that have plenty of leaves just beggin' to be utilized. I read
in an herb book that Cost Mary was used through the 18th century in
English ales (there was a belief that hops were not too good for you).
If you do have a clue, are the leaves supposed to be used fresh or
dried?
Right on, right on, to Bill Ridgely re: Sorghum. Thanks for setting
the Eurocentrists straight. I suggest they check out the Discovery
Channel (no spam intended) program Pharaohs' Liquid Gold. Seems as
though Scottish & Newcastle Brewing found the ancient Egyptian brewing
tradition interesting enough to fund an archeological team to find out
what ingredients were in the beer made way back when.
------------------------------
From: saunderm@vt.edu (J. Matthew Saunders)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:50:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Boiling Over
John writes:
>First of all, though I did not say so, I do this before adding any hops. I
>have found that this "film" or "scum" can coat the hops, reducing
>utilization. Also, it just makes things easier to get rid of the "scum"
>first. Besides, I rarely put in hops for more than 60 minutes, so they go
>in only after the wort has been boiling awhile.
I see. I usually add my hops right before the boil has started--at the
simmer if you will. I've found that I get significantly more bittering
doing it this way. I have no idea why. However, if I'm using whole
flowers as opposed to plugs or pellets, I throw a handful in right after I
get the rolling boil--then no probs. (When I tried this with plugs or
pellets....the resulting disaster convinced me it was a BAD idea.)
>
>If you put in the hops right away (first wort hopping or some variant),
>would there be any hop component in the "scum"? It may be, but I don't
>know of any reason to think that is the case.
>Anyone out there know for sure?
I've tasted the "scum". It definately is bitter.
>
>I have thought that this "scum" is related to "hot break" and that you
>don't lose anything by getting rid of it, as you don't want hot break in
>your fermenter anyway.
I think that you are right. I've found the more "scum" I have in a boil,
the larger quantity of hot break I end up with.
Any other thoughts out there?
Cheers!
Matthew.
------------------------------
From: Nancy or Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:53:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Gypsum
Al K said:
> 1 teaspoon of gypsum (calcium sulphate) in 1 gallon of water will give
> about 28 ppm of SO4.
That looked way off, so I checked Terry Foster's _Pale Ale_. He says that
1 gram of gypsum per gallon will give 150 ppm sulphate (and 60 ppm
calcium). He also ways that 1 tsp weighs 5 grams, so 1 tsp gypsum per
gallon will give about *750 ppm* sulphate. Looks like a brain cramp, Al.
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
------------------------------
From: bob rogers <bob@carol.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 20:54:36 -0400
Subject: copyright
Scott says:
>>This line is simply stating that said noun from the first line has taken
the time to register said nouns entire posting to the HBD with the US
copyright office. <<
this is not correct. if any of you want to know more about copyright point
your browser at
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/
and find the copyright faq, which is a good introduction to the subject.
bob - brewing in the heart of the bible belt
bob rogers bob@carol.net
------------------------------
From: "John M. Posing" <jmposing@colint.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:29:05 -0500
Subject: Strange yeast question
Hey everyone. I noticed something kinda strange last night, that I hope
someone can explain. I haven't bottled for awhile, just kegs. But I put
up a batch of Barleywine for this winters enjoyment in 7 ozs. While
moving them, I noticed that yeast had clung to one side of each bottle
and that it was always oriented in the same direction, NE. Can someone
explain why?
- --
John M. Posing
jmposing@colint.com
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (William P Giffin)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:46:36 cst
Subject: Brewing water still
Good evening,
>>Al K
you need to make sure there is enough
sulphate in the water and then you may have to adjust the pH down with
calcium carbonate so the pH is not too low (it depends on your water).
<<
I hope you mean mash and adjust the pH down? Am I supposed to jump up?
Still the answer to the question hasn't been answered. How much SO4 is
required to "Burtonize" the water? 60 ppm. 150 ppm or 270 ppm. What
does the magnesium in Burton water have to do with the bittering of the
beer?
>>Al K:
Alternatively, you could add lactic or phosphoric acids
to lower pH without adding sulphate. I believe that these acids do pull
calcium out of the water (AJ?) so that you could end up with not enough
to protect enzymes or form beerstone.
>>
I use lactic acid to adjust the sparge water, works great helps keep the
tannins down. If your water has little or no calcium such as my water
and Pilsen water and you do not want SO4 in the beer then what is the
alternative. Beerstone has not been a problem, and filters make pretty
beer fast.
>>Al K:
Correct, but it does make it *easier* to brew.
<<
I have done both I find very little difference in using an acid rest,
adding gypsum or lactic acid. How and why do you think it is easier?
Then what? If you really want it easy you go to your friendly packy
store and you buy the beer. I don't brew to make it easy I brew to brew
beer that is as good or better then commercial examples and if it is not
I dump the beer I have brewed!!
Lets go in another tack. Must I adjust my very soft water in order to
brew Munich style beers? Why? I have brewed some very lovely bocks and
dunkels and helles with no adjustment at all. Should you adjust soft
water for these beers?
Still haven't answered the question. I want to know how much is enough?
Bill
------------------------------
From: gdouhan@mail.wsu.edu (Greg Douhan)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:10:33 -0700
Subject: wyeast 1728
Any info on this yeast(1728) would be appreciated. Private e-mail
would be great. Thanks
Greg Douhan
------------------------------
From: Captain <captain@iquest.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 96 22:14 EST
Subject: Overnight mashes
>A friend and I tried an overnight mash for a stout the other day, and so
>far things seem to be fine (mash was sweet after 10 hours, no off
>flavors). We're going to try again with a more delicately flavored beer,
>but has anyone tried this before, and what were the results? I'm
>concerned about astringent flavors and components that would contribute to
>a greater-than-normal amount of haze. Thanks in advance...
I use a cooler for a mash/lauter tun and do overnight mashes all the time.
Typically I use 25 to 35 lbs of grain for a 10 gallon batch O' brew. I'll
heat my mash water to 180 degrees and mix at a rate of 1 qt. per pound of
grain. It almost always mashes in at around 153 degrees. By 9:00 the next
morning, the temp has usually not dropped below 148 to 149 degrees. There's
a lot of mass and it's a good cooler. I like this procedure. It saves me a
lot of time on brew day.
*********************************
"Beer... it's not just for breakfast anymore."
Jim Kirk
captain@iquest.net
*********************************
------------------------------
From: Jack Schmidling <arf@mc.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 21:53:15 -0700
Subject: GELATINE
I have a question for the Dr Gelatine:
Now that I have no fear of killing my gelatine or causing it unnecessary
pain and anguish by boiling it, I have developed another quandry.
Because my fermenter is only 10 gallons, I brew my beer allowing for the
addition of one gallon of brewing water at kegging time.
Normally, I boil the water the night before I am going to keg to allow
it to cool and precipitate some of the stuff in my well water. There
is usually a layer of sludge on the bottom and some stuff floating on
the top. Careful pouring leaves the sludge behind.
Now the problem is that if I add gelatine to the boiling water and let
it cool, the precipitate that settles out seems to be more substantial
and sticks to the bottom of the kettle like glue.
The question is: Did I "use up" the gelatine by letting the water
cool over night or will the brewing water with gelatine still function
as a fining agent?
No guessing now.
js
- --
Visit our WEB pages:
Beer Stuff: http://dezines.com/@your.service/jsp/
Astronomy: http://user.mc.net/arf/
------------------------------
From: "Preston M W (Mike)" <mpreston@ford.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 06:54:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Fementowhat?
Someone with entirely too much time with nothing to brew wrote......
> Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Now, stand on your head and
> have someone step on your left earlobe. Hard. Suddenly the rest makes sense:
> Attobreweries are not related to SI at all. These are the guys that win all
> the competitions and get all the attoboys. Decibreweries, like Al K, only
> brew in the winter. Centibreweries brew prohibition beer to save money. Nano
> - - and Millibreweries are run by women; nanos having children. It should be
> obvious that femtobreweries are run by feminists.
>
> Did I miss any?
Missed just one. The Geekobrewer. That's someone who has more than one
brewer's software program (and uses them all), and has their own web
page with the majority of the contents dedicated to beer/brewing ;p
- --
"lager sir is regal"
Mike Preston
------------------------------
From: Michel Vandenplas <mvdp@maties.sun.ac.za>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 12:19 +0200
Subject: Sorghum beer - an SA homebrewer's point of view
In response to the the messages of Terry Tegner and Bill Ridgely within
recent digest issues I'd like add the following comments.
Sorghum beer is South Africa's original homebrew and only true indigenous
beer. I'm therefore rather proud of it. It may not be a Belgian lambic but it
is, when tradtionally made, "spontaneously fermented". It has a unique
flavour and is ,IMHO, highly drinkable and thirst-quenching when fresh. A few
days later, however, things change for the worse. It becomes far more
alcoholic and sour and definitely an acquired taste. Mmm...hints of the
difference between Belgian Faro Lambic versus Old Lambic?
As to it not being a beer, I think many commercial lager brewers would
like to encourage that view. However, substitute sorghum malt for barley malt
and the brewing process is very similar. Sales of sorghum beer are about 4
times higher than lager beer in South Africa, but as Bill has mentioned,
there seems be growing culture that it is an inferior product to be seen
drinking. A sad state of affairs in the eyes of a homebrewer who realises
that this beer has played an important role in his countries cultural and
homebrewing heritage. Finally, it remains a highly nutritious and
thirst-quenching beer, the only beer-style unique to Africa, something
well worth preserving and trying.
Michel Vandenplas
Amateur Brewing Association, Cape Town, South Africa
------------------------------
From: "DICK KUZARA" <DICK_KUZARA@itd.sterling.com>
Date: 29 Aug 1996 06:48:28 -0600
Subject: German Purity Law and Water
Subject: Time: 6:36 AM
OFFICE MEMO German Purity Law and Water ... Date: 8/29/96
There has been much discussion about the Reinheitsgebot. I would like to know
if conditioning additives (adding gipsum to the mash and/or lactic acid to the
sparge water) violate this law. Any comments?
------------------------------
From: toml@fcmc.COM (Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt))
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 07:57:37 EDT
Subject: microwaving to sterilize?
Does anybody know anything about sterilizing bottles, hops, hopbags,
brewing parts etc. in the microwave? Would this be an effective way to
kill "nasties" that can cause infection in the brewing process?
Regards,
Tom
------------------------------
From: Bill Ridgely 301-827-1391 FAX 301-827-3053 <RIDGELY@A1.CBER.FDA.GOV>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 07:45:41 EST
Subject: RE: Reinheitsgebot
Considering all of the discussion lately regarding the finer
points of the Reinheitsgebot, it seems appropriate to put this
into some historical context.
The Reinheitsgebot was proclaimed in the year 1516 to prohibit
German brewers from putting bones and blood and other foul matter
into their beer.
At the same time, the Inca empire in South America, a
civilization which had attained a very high degree of technology
without a written language or knowledge of the wheel, and which
boasted an economic system based entirely on a beer made from
masticated corn, was reaching its zenith.
This leads one to wonder which society was truely the more
advanced.
Cheers!
Bill Ridgely
Alexandria, VA
------------------------------
From: brian.wurst@aquila.com (BRIAN WURST)
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 08:07:00 -0600
Subject: Copyright Al (c)
>Isabel asks about my copyright.
>You apparently are unaware of the fact that there is a company selling
>back issues of HBD on CD-ROM. This is a violation of my copyright as
<blah, blah, blah>
Boy, my sides are hurting! I just got back from the bank and I was
laughing all the way there *and* back. Had to deposit the $MILLIONS
I've made putting the HBD on CD-ROM. Yeah, Al, I'm the guy whose done
it - grab the phone and call your lawyers! HaHaHaHaHaHa!!!
It would take quite an imagination to believe that someone could make
any sort of money off of something that is so ubiquitous and available.
Al, your paranoia is showing....
>Next time you have a complaint or personal question, I suggest you
>use private email and not waste HBD bandwidth and the time of all
>its subscribers.
Yessir, Captain Netiquette, just as soon as you comply with your own
suggestion. Why not toss in a taunt for good measure?
>Look out Isabel... here it comes again!!!
>Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
You did, you cheeky devil!
(Excerpts are provided without your express permission...that's another
for your lawyers.)
Brian Wurst (brian.wurst@aquila.com)
"Nature has formed you, desire has trained you, fortune has preserved
you for this insanity." -Cicero
------------------------------
From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd@uchastings.edu>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 07:50:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Berkeley Brews
Since moving to Berkeley 2 years ago, I have been hearing about the
brewpubs that were planned to move in. At that time, Hart (Pyramid)
Brewing and Pacific Coast. Now I also hear of one called Albany Brew Pub
and Barbary Coast. Supposedly, they were to open mid to late September,
but the only one I have seen any significant progress on is Hart's
establishment. Does anyone out there have any ideas on when these are
going to open?
Also, on the local brew scene here, I just had a Bison Brewing "Juniper
Smoked Ale." It was very smooth with a slight herbal bite. Not too
hoppy, but high aroma. Great counter to Indian food. I was told that
besides adding some actual berries and boughs to the brew tank, that the
important step here was "Smoke clensing" of the tank. How does this
work? Is it somewhat like burning a sulfar candle in wine casks?
that's all
Doug Thomas
------------------------------
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia@zgi.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 08:35:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Boiling stones
The tendency to boil over can be reduced (not eliminated!) by the use of
boiling stones. I throw about 5 old, bent bottle caps into the boil (rip
out the plastic if it concerns you). These will act as nucleation sites
for large bubbles and as such reduce the risk of boil over.
Domenick Venezia
Computer Resources
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia@zgi.com
------------------------------
From: Derek Lyons <elde@hurricane.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 08:44:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Copyrights online
At 10:35 AM 8/28/96 -0600, you wrote:
>
>*The third line "Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas" seems pretty straight forward:
>
>This line is simply stating that said noun from the first line has taken
>the time to register said nouns entire posting to the HBD with the US
>copyright office. By doing this, all persons or people wishing to use or
>quote from said nouns HBD post should ask for permission from said nouns
>lawyers or face criminal charges and federal copyright infringement.
>
Actually the legal protections do not entirely kick in unless said noun
actually fills out the paperwork and submits it to the appropriate authority.
Also the 'Fair Use' doctrine allows quite a bit of usage of said nouns posts
without requiring permissions from said noun.
------------------------------
From: Gregory King <GKING@ARSERRC.Gov>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 12:08:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: figuring SO4 ppm from gypsum additions
In HBD #2164 Al Korzonas <korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com> wrote:
>1 teaspoon of gypsum (calcium sulphate) in 1 gallon of water will give
>about 28 ppm of SO4.
According to Papazian in TNCJOHB (around p. 270 or so) 1 tsp of gypsum
dissolved in 5 gallons of water increases the SO4 concentration by 135 ppm,
so 1 tsp in 1 gallon would boost SO4 by 675 ppm, not 28 ppm (looks like
Al divided 135 by 5 instead of multiplying).
But before taking that number as the gospel, consider this. Gypsum and
two other commonly-used brewing salts are hydrates, which means that one
or more water molecules are an integral part of their crystal structures.
The three salts I'm talking about are:
CaCl2*2H2O calcium chloride
CaSO4*2H2O calcium sulphate (gypsum)
MgSO4*7H2O magnesium sulphate (Epsom salt)
If you get out your periodic tables and do the math (don't worry, I already
did it) you'll find that:
1 g CaCl2*2H2O contains 0.755 g CaCl2 and 0.245 g H2O
1 g CaSO4*2H2O contains 0.791 g CaSO4 and 0.209 g H2O
1 g MgSO4*7H2O contains 0.488 g MgSO4 and 0.512 g H2O
What's the point of this chemistry mini-lesson? If you forget that these
salts contain water in their crystal structures, you will make mistakes when
figuring out the amounts to use when adjusting your brewing water (the water
will have less ppms than you think you have added).
If any of you know accurate mass-to-volume ratios for these three salts I can
figure out whether the ppm numbers Papazian gives on this page (again, that's
p. 270 or so) are correct.
Greg King
gking@arserrc.gov
------------------------------
From: guym@Exabyte.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 11:39:42 MDT
Subject: Boiling over
J. Matthew Saunders writes:
> John writes:
>> Let me repeat my own method for avoiding boilovers:
>>
>> Skim the scum that forms just before it gets roiling.
<snip>
> This certainly works, but I think that a significant portion of that
> "scum" is hop residue. If you skim that gook before it really gets a
> chance to do its thing, you significanty reduce the bitterness of
> your brew.
Unless, like most (I think) of us all grain brewers, you boil the wort for
some period prior to adding hops (I usually boil 10 to 15 minutes - long
enough to get a good hot break). In this case, no hop constituents are
removed by the skimming, which I do. By the time I add the hops (whole),
the wort has settled down and stopped trying to get out of the kettle. I
use a half-barrel converted keg for a kettle on a jet burner so this is
important to me. I had a 5 gallon batch boil over once in the 15.5 gallon
kettle. I usually brew 10 gallon batches these days and I watch it more
closely!
--
Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// guym@exabyte.com
"And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one for dessert."
------------------------------
From: guym@Exabyte.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 11:47:23 MDT
Subject: Jet burners
Sorry, I missed the request for information on these. I have a jet burner
(King Kooker I think) and, while it is admittedly gas hungry, I have no
problems with soot or flame color (always blue). I can turn it down and
also use the deflector plate for fine adjustment. Also, I have had exactly
zero problems with scorching. If you want to get to boiling quickly, these
are hard to beat. I could see having a ring style burner as well if I set
up a RIMS or manual multi-vessel brewery. Bottom line is that I am
perfectly happy with my Harrier. ;-)
--
Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// guym@exabyte.com
"Run too fast, and shove too hard, you'll be pushing up the daisies in
some old bone yard."
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2165
****************************
