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HOMEBREW Digest #2115
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/07/19 PDT
Homebrew Digest Friday, 19 July 1996 Number 2115
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
re: kegs & carbonation (Rscholz@aol.com)
Re: The ultimate float (Brew Free Or Die 19-Jul-1996 1259)
Re: Summer Brewing Poll (Spencer W Thomas)
Re: Odor Removal ((Ed Westemeier))
PH meters (and gelatine question) ("Dan Lacey")
Invert sugar/honey (John Wilkinson)
Travelling (joe-sysop@cyberbury.net)
cookbooks ("Bob Pease")
Nashville (Alex Banta)
LARGE fermentors (<CROSSNO@novell2.tn.cubic.com>)
Ground Ivy Beer/ Boilovers (JOSEPH MAXIMILLIAN MURPHY)
Gelatin boil (Douglas Thomas)
more fill level & carb. (Steve Alexander)
Large Fermenter (mikehu@lmc.com)
Oldenburg Nut Brown: Whats nutty flovor...? ("Todd W. Roat")
Magic Carbonation. (Russell Mast)
Practice patience NOKOMAREE ("Todd W. Roat")
Omigosh here we go again! (NOKOMAREE@aol.com)
Plastic Conical Vessel (DAVE BRADLEY IC742 6-7932)
Party Pig, Gott (Russell Mast)
more dumbness! (NOKOMAREE@aol.com)
Lids and Boiling ((Jeff Smith))
Re: I can't belive the dumbness-- clearly a troll ((Michael A. Owings))
RE: Odor Removal ! ("CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865")
male hops ("Thomas K. Simacek")
Re: Guinness Ice Cream (last word?) (James Dorau)
Extract Brewing (vee12@juno.com)
re: understanding/ priming a few bottles ((Steve Cloutier))
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Rscholz@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:18:19 -0400
Subject: re: kegs & carbonation
George De Piro (Nyack, NY) writes: ( with lots of explaination above)
> I've noticed that draft beer at many bars is devoid of visible
> bubbles, too. Am I chasing windmills here? Can you pour a bubbly
> glass from a keg, or should I just be happy there's no foam?
> When I counter-pressure bottle these beers at the same pressure, the
> carbonation is perfect, but I really would like to drink straight from
> the keg once in a while!
It's the only way I drink my beer,except for a few grolsch bottles for
compititions. I use a 2.5 gal "Beer Machine(TM)" keg, plastic with CO2 bulb
pressurizing and a tap at the bottom with a fiter on the intake.
[] co2
(----[]----)-----------------)
( ) )
( tap ) )
( @ ) )
(---------)------------------)
works great keeps batch fresh for months ( rarely takes that long to finish
;-)
I pressurize the keg and prime it with corn sugar at "bottling time", chill
for a week
and drink great carbonated, good head, no extra foam down to the last dregs.
I don't know how to fix your problem george, but I'm thinking of getting a
couple
of corny kegs for my new/old beer fridge. Just adding to the bandwidth.
richard scholz
bklyn ny
------------------------------
From: Brew Free Or Die 19-Jul-1996 1259 <hall@buffa.ENET.dec.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 13:03:00 EDT
Subject: Re: The ultimate float
>From: ed.westemeier@sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier)
>Yes, Guinness and vanilla ice cream work very well together,
>but there's an even better way. Try it with Mackeson's stout.
>
>Fred Eckhardt used this at the beer & chocolate tasting he
>conducted at the AHA conference in Manchester NH a number of
>years ago:
Actually, Ed, the beer Fred used in Manchester was Blackwell Stout from the New
Haven Brewing Company. It's a fairly 'light' stout, being only slightly roasty
and not quite opaque. It's a wonderful beer though, and went very well with
the ice cream and the brownie.
I've tried using Mackeson's but didn't care for it as much. I can't recall
exactly why now, but it may have been too sweet, or it tasted odd due to the
lactose. But to each his own. Regardless, everyone should try this. It's a
great way to gross out your friends, until they actually taste it.
- --
Dan Hall Digital Equipment Corporation MKO1-1/A10 Merrimack, NH 03054
hall@buffa.enet.dec.com (603) 884-5879
"Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot
Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat" --David Geary
------------------------------
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:23:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Summer Brewing Poll
I didn't respond to the poll. But one of the best beers I've made was
brewed in July. I am amazed it didn't get infected:
* We brewed outside on a 100 degree day.
* It rained (POURED) while we were boiling.
* The hop pellets clogged the screen in the boiling kettle, and we had
to "bail" the beer into the fermenter using a plastic measuring cup!
It turned out to be probably the best Pilsner I've made to date
(although my brew partner's half of the batch did get infected.)
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer@umich.edu)
------------------------------
From: ed.westemeier@sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:30:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Odor Removal
Derrick M. Yacavone wrote:
> Thought I would give an all-grain attempt, so I was fortunate enough(it
> wasn't easy) to find a couple of 5 gallon pickle buckets(very very kosher
> from the smell !) I have had them soaking with up to 3 cups of bleach mixed
> up with water and still can't get the smell out !
An old problem with a surprisingly simple solution.
Sunlight.
Leave them out in bright sunshine for a couple of days (taking them
back in at night is entirely optional) and the odor will magically
disappear. Completely. Best oxidizer in the world; far superior to bleach.
Ed
======================================================
Ed Westemeier E-mail: hopfen@iac.net
In wine, there is truth.
In beer, there is strength.
In water, there is bacteria.
======================================================
------------------------------
From: "Dan Lacey" <dlacey@fdic.gov>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 13:27:19 EDT
Subject: PH meters (and gelatine question)
Hi there, just signed on...good group!
As far as pH meters go. I do NOT use them in a homebrew type setting. I do,
however, use them in my research lab on a daily basis and have learned a few
things (over the course of ten or so years):
1. They will eventually break down. Some last longer than others, but even
w/ the most scrupulous care, sooner or later that electrode will go south on
you. It may last several years, so if this is a good lifespan, go for it!
2. As for me, when I'm brewing at home, I rely on the pH papers. They
provide an accuracy of +/- 0.1, which is close enough for me. If you need +/-
0.01, an electrode is the way to go...but it's just not worth the hassle &
expense IMHO.
One quick question...does anyone out there incorporate gelatine at the
priming stage? I tried this on my last batch and the end product (IPA) was
really clear, but I'm wondering if this was just a fluke.
Thanks,
Dan
dlacey@fdic.gov
------------------------------
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 12:50:19 -0500
Subject: Invert sugar/honey
In hbd #2113 Gregory King said that honey should do as a replacement for
invert sugar if used in a 4/3 ratio.
A few months ago when I asked about invert sugar, A. J. deLange told me
how to invert cane sugar but noted that an alternative was to let bees make
the conversion. I see now what he was referring to. I suspected he must
have meant honey but was not sure of what else might be in there.
The thing I wonder about, though, is why honey is said to take longer to
ferment than malt if it is mostly glucose and fructose? Shouldn't they be
more readily fermentable than maltose since the yeast has to break down
maltose into glucose just as it has to break down sucrose into glucose
and fructose? Or am I off in left field here?
On the "heart of the hops" thread, what is the difference between that and
using low alpha acid hops, except for saving money by separating the two
components to allow two different beers to use the same high alpha acid
hops?
John Wilkinson
------------------------------
From: joe-sysop@cyberbury.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 17:56:28 GMT
Subject: Travelling
>Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 13:40:39 EDT
>Mystic, Connecticutt to stay for about a week. On our way back, we
>will make our way through Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire,
>Quebec City, Canada, Montreal, and Ottawa then back to Detroit. I
>would appreciate any tips on beer/brewing places and sites to see
>along the way.
>Regards,
>Jeffrey Walters, JWALTER8
Hey, Jeff,
On your way through Connecticut, you might want to sample
a brown ale from Hammer & Nail Brewers of Watertown, CT. Near the
intersection of I-84 and Rt. 8. By the time of your trip they
should be set up for visitors. If you're interested, e-mail me,
and I'll give better directions, and a list of local
establishments that carry the beer.
Another time, another beer...
Joe Labeck joe-sysop@cyberbury.net
House-husband, Dad, Writer, Homebrewer
The only thing worse than hearing the alarm clock is not...
`[1;37;47mNet-Tamer V 1.04 - Registered
------------------------------
From: "Bob Pease" <bobp@aob.org>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 12:17:10 -0600
Subject: cookbooks
In addition to Real Beer Good Eats I would like to recommend The Great
American Beer Cookbook. This is a four-color cookbook by Candy
Schermerhorn. Published in 1993 by Brewers Publications, this book
contains 217 mouth watering recipes. Every recipe uses beer to enhance
the flavor. This helps give food an added culinary dimension.
This book has won numerous awards for both design and content.
The retail price is $24.95 wholesale inquiries are also welcome. To
order call Brewers Publications (303) 546-6514.
Bob Pease
Operations Director
Association of Brewers (303) 447-0816 x 101 (voice)
736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 (fax)
PO Box 1679 bobp@aob.org (e-mail)
Boulder, CO 80306-1679 info@aob.org (aob info)
U.S.A. http://www.aob.org/aob (web)
------------------------------
From: Alex Banta <abanta@sctcorp.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 14:26:19 EDT
Subject: Nashville
Hello everybody,
This is the first time I have written to the Homebrew Digest. My
husband and I are going to Nashville to visit some of the brewpubs
and microbreweries this weekend. I know there are four, but
can only find information on three. Those three are Market Steet or
Bohannon's Brewery, Blackstone, and Big River Grille. I can't
find any information on the fourth one, Bosco's Brewery, Does any-
body out there have any info on it? Please direct all emails to
me at abanta@sctcorp.com. Thanks in advance.
Alex R. Banta
Lexington, KY 40505
------------------------------
From: <CROSSNO@novell2.tn.cubic.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:46:40 CST
Subject: LARGE fermentors
First the statement, I have not order from this company. yadda yadda
yadda
The Grape and Granary, 1302 E. Tallmadge Ave., Akron OH 44310
1-800-695-9870
11 gallon white plastic $7.95
10 gallon plastic heavy duty $17.95
20 gallon plastic heavy duty $26.99
15 gallon glass in plastic bucket $39.95
Brewing may be illegal, but the moon looks good in those little jars.
Glyn Crossno, Estill Springs, TN
- ---->
There's only two things I need to get close to,
a big ole brew and ...
Glyn.Crossno@cubic.com
------------------------------
From: JOSEPH MAXIMILLIAN MURPHY <MURPHYJ@CUA.EDU>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 14:46:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Ground Ivy Beer/ Boilovers
Vincent Voelz asked about using Ground Ivy (Creeping Charlie) as a beer
flavoring. I've never actually tried to do anything like this myself, but I'd
guess that a good first batch might be something like Fraoch Heather Ale:
light colored and malty, to let the spice show through. I'm just working on a
hunch here, but I'd guess it might be smart to try a batch to get the flavor
itself so you know what it might go well with. I don't know if this is a
"traditional English" ale to you or not; the folks who make Fraoch seemed to
think it was, but then, they seemed to think they were working off of an old
Pictish recipie too. ;-) (As far as Fraoch goes, its heather flavor is
interesting, but not quite up to the level of its price, IMO. Might be worth
tracking down a bottle or two if you're looking into playing with herbed
beers, though.) Let us know if you get anywhere working with just the "heart
of the ivy." ;-)
- -Joe Murphy "Censorship, like charity, should begin at home, but
murphyj@cua.edu unlike charity, it should end there."
-- Clare Boothe Luce
------------------------------
From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd@uchastings.edu>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 12:07:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Gelatin boil
Howdy!
To boil or not to boil? Well, all I can say is that I have tried it both
ways, and that just dissolving it in 1 cup of water has worked better for
me. When boiled (I stirred the whole while) it tends to clump together
in larger lumps, and does not grab the tannin, and other particulates,
nearly as well. I have been told there is also an electrostatic side to
this, which with a greater surface area, i.e. smaller particles, more
charge is available to attract suspendend material. I say try both ways
for yourself, if unsure. Maybe I did not stir enough, or heated too
long, but boiling never works as well for me.
Doug Thomas
thomasd@uchastings.edu
------------------------------
From: Steve Alexander <stevea@clv.mcd.mot.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:27:09 -0400
Subject: more fill level & carb.
Brad writes ...
>Interesting disagreement. I wonder WHY our observations are
>different? And, what do you mean by "much slower" carbonation? Twice
>as long? More?
The last two entries from my January post were:
>day 16 -
> normal fill:
> near normal pffft, yeasty CO2 nose, dry (unsweet) finish compared
> with previous examples tho' still sweeter than the kegged beer.
> Approaching normal carbonation (adaquate for an ale, quite low for
> a lager). Sulphur scent still very noticeable.
>
> underfill:
> full pffft ! more than above! fully carbonated, malty sweet nose,
> perhaps very slighly sweeter flavor than the kegged beer. Tried a
> second bottle w/ same results.
>
> overfill:
> modest pffft, suphur nose, yeasty sulphur flavor, much sweeter and
> much less carbonated than either the normal or underfill bottles
> above.
>
>day 20:
> normal fill:
> clear and fully carbonated, no major off odors.
>
> underfill:
> very fully carbonated - perhaps slightly too much! no off sulphury
> odors. Clear.
>
> overfill:
> yeasty sulphury nose, somewhat undercarbonated for this style but
> not wildly far off.
Normal fill at ~day 10 was comparable to overfilled at ~day 20 roughly
in my experiment. And somewhere between day 16 and 20 my overfill case
started catching up but, a followup note (also from a 1996 HBD post)
from day 37 after bottling reveals that the overfilled bottle still
has less carbonation. And the underfill mysteriously was more
carbonated!??!
I explain how after being called away from the critial tasting on for
~5 minutes I found the carbonation foam.
day 37:
>The three beers were each in identical glasses, at nearly the same
>level - each glass about 2/3rd full. When I returned, the overfill
>glass had just a thin white ring of head foam, the normal fill level
>glass had a ring of head foam from the edge of the glass in about 1/4 to
>3/8th inch, and the underfilled bottle had a fine layer of foam
>covering the entire glass !!
Tho' all tasted & appeared to be inthe 'normal' carbonation range at
this point (day 37).
There are many variables here. I used Wy2308, AlK used 1056, you've
used several including 1007. Mark Bayer states a similar experience
(slow carbonation).
It's possible that the difference may be attributable to factors like
the yeast cell count in the bottling. Perhaps yeast have trouble
reproducing in the presumeably higher pressure of an overfilled
bottle. So indirectly flocculation, and the precision of the racking
might be involved.
As osmotic pressure increases yeast and other simple organisms can
excrete some of their goodies into the surrounding environment, it's
discussed briefly in M&B Sci. Quite possibly this effect is yeast
variety/condition dependent. I'm open to better explanations, or
suggestions for more specific experiments.
Until a persuasive body of evidence accrues, it's probably fair to
state that some people under some circumstances experience slow
carbonation or under-carbonation in overfilled bottles. Others
apparantly don't.
Steve Alexander
------------------------------
From: mikehu@lmc.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 12:43:56 PDT
Subject: Large Fermenter
David Bradley mentions:
>15gal tank made of medium density polyethylene, FDA approved for water use,
>60 degree sloped conical section, 2" FPT bottom outlet, a 10" top opening
>"positive locking fillwell" ...
This sounds like the perfect fermenter for my 15 gal. batches! Only one
concern - will oxidation be a problem? Does anybody know how permeable
polyethylene is to oxygen? Is oxidation even a concern if I was to use
this as a primary only, racking off after a week or so? Of course, using
a conical fermenter is supposed to eliminate the need for racking, so it
would be nice if oxidation was not even a concern. What is polyethylene
anyway? Will the spent yeast cling to the sides, or will it fall to the
bottom like it does in a stainless, conical fermenter?
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don in Virgina writes:
>when I use a large starter and get very fast startups. The really curious
>thing is that if I throw another batch of wort on top of the dregs from one
>of these bad batches the resulting brew turns out fine
Don, this is just a guess, but I think that when you put a second batch on top
of the dregs, you had a MUCH higher pitching rate, allowing the yeast to get
the upper hand on the nasties. Maybe if you started using a larger starter,
you could avoid bad batches altogether?
Mike H. In Portland,OR (mikehu@lmc.com)
In Brightest Day, In Blackest Night
I Brew My Beer, I Make It Right.
Let Those Who Drink Commercial Swill,
Beware My Power - Homebrewers Skill!
------------------------------
From: "Todd W. Roat" <troat@one.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:57:34 -0500
Subject: Oldenburg Nut Brown: Whats nutty flovor...?
Anyone ever tasted Oldenburg Nut Brown Ale? If so, any idea what they use
to produce that wonderful nutty aftertaste? Is it toasting of grains that
does it or a specific grain or combinations of grains? Ive brewed several
recipes of nut brown using "nut brown" extracts + specialty grains but have
never found anything that really tastes "nutty." The toasting of the grain
or the grain itself...that is the question....maybe Ill send someone a
bottle to have them diagnose.
Todd W. Roat
Cincinnati, Ohio
"We don't own this place, thought we act as if we did,
its a loan from the children of our children's kids.
The actual owners haven't even been born yet."
------------------------------
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:17:59 -0500
Subject: Magic Carbonation.
> From: Gregory King <GKING@ARSERRC.Gov>
> Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 13:46:42 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: magical carbonation?
>
> The authors also state that although priming the ale prior to bottling will
> produce carbonation quickly, it is not necessary(!), as CO2 will be produced
> by the slow fermentation of the residual dextrins in the ale over a several-
> month period.
>
> I'm wondering if any of you have had the patience to try bottling without
> priming, and then waiting for this (magical?) carbonation.
I've had three different batches of "still" mead become somewhat carbonated
in the bottle. Basically, if you abuse your yeast with a really high-G or
low-nutrient wort, it will take a very long time to totally finish. Note
that "real ales" are SUPPOSED to have very low carbonation.
- -R
------------------------------
From: "Todd W. Roat" <troat@one.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:31:35 -0500
Subject: Practice patience NOKOMAREE
Yesterday NOKOMAREE wrote:
>Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 04:04:56 -0400
>Subject: I can't believe the dumbness
>After 30 years of home brewing I can't believe the stupidity of >the
conversation regarding priming a batch of beer.
>What don't you understand?
>All you do is dump 1 cup of corn sugar (OR 3/4 CUP OF CANE >SUGAR) into a
5 gallon batch and it carbonates!
>What in the world is so hard about that??
>Why analyze it to death?
To summarize an old thread: if you're not interested in a topic, dont read
it. This solution is simple, saves you time, allows the person with the
question to post it and get an answer, allows those with answers/input to
answer, and allows those disinterested to simply ignore it (thats the
beauty of the "Subject" line). Everybody's happy. You should never
belittle a persons questions/interests. If youve got 30 years of
experience, of course you have all the answers. Duh. Im glad
NOKOMAREE@aol.com wasnt one of my teachers/mentors in life; Id be afraid to
learn.
"We don't own this place, thought we act as if we did,
its a loan from the children of our children's kids.
The actual owners haven't even been born yet."
------------------------------
From: NOKOMAREE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:39:55 -0400
Subject: Omigosh here we go again!
Don't be dumb! Just do it!
What's wrong with lots of you?
Gelatin.................beverage settler?
Just mix 2 large Tablespoons with 1 cup of corn sugar (dry, yes mix them dry)
stir (dry, yes, stir them dry) and then sprinkle into a cup of boiling water.
It will dissolve completely & immediately. Add to your primer and bottle
like nornal.
That's all! No extra steps! Don't analyze anything! Just do it!
Are you all really so dumb?
Don't analyze.......just do!
------------------------------
From: DAVE BRADLEY IC742 6-7932 <BRADLEY_DAVID_A@LILLY.COM>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 20:45:39 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Plastic Conical Vessel
Yes, as dput@pe.com quoted me in the previous HBD,
a 15gal MDPE plastic vessel with a conical btm is
available from US Plastics for ca. $62.00.
I bought one, and have used it for a few batches now.
Works well. I drain off trub at 1 and 2 days via
the btm valve, skim krausen at 1 and 2 days, drain
off yeast for ranching at 7-10 days, add gelatin
then priming sugar, then keg/bottle. All via the
bottom valve. I hoped this would save time, and it
surely does.
As with any plastic vessel, long term storage is prohibited
because of O2 permeation leading to oxidation (no lagering).
Dave in Indy
home of the 3-D BBB
------------------------------
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:07:33 -0500
Subject: Party Pig, Gott
I've never had problems with a Party Pig leaking. I am careful not to
touch the insides of the spigot thingy. There is a "dripping" problem,
though. For about 2 minutes after dispensing, the tap will drip. That's
kind of obnoxious. Also, the gasket is pretty easy to drop into the beer
if you drink while kegging. That's a problem. The gasket is generally
easy to use, but if you call Quoin they'll send you extras for free or
almost free. I wish they included extra ones when they sell it.
Also, who is paying $4 for a freakin' pressure pouch? Son, you're being
robbed, they're like $2 around here. And, you can use CO2 to pop the
pouch instead of the hand pump. All in all, the Party Pig is a pretty
good product as a supplement to bottling. I have one, and occasionally
contemplate getting another. I think I'll likely just move up to "real"
kegs, instead.
The bung for a Fass-Frisch mini-keg works great to vonert a Gott Cooler.
I recommend it over stoppers, which I've had some problems with. (Notably,
after about 15 uses, hot wort somehow leaked into the insulation one on
batch. The F-F bung eliminated that problem.)
Everyone - take it easy on the bandwidth, especially if you're just
bullshitting. And, harp on each other in private e-mail, not out in public.
Finally, if you don't like over-analysis of homebrewing topics, why the
heck are you reading HBD?
- -R
------------------------------
From: NOKOMAREE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 17:16:37 -0400
Subject: more dumbness!
What's wrong out there?
Is everybody dumb?
Doesn't anybody use common sense? (Which doesn't seem to be so common
now-a-days?)
Here's another example........... the level of ber in a bottle should be the
same as a commercial beer. Perhaps 3/4 inch from the top????
Period!
Don't analyze it to death!
Why would you?
It is purely dumb!
Just do it!
------------------------------
From: snsi@win.bright.net (Jeff Smith)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 17:21:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Lids and Boiling
Edward J. Kendall posted in HBD #2114
>My other favorite is that we can NEVER boil the wort covered. Is there =
>a reason other than the obvious danger of boil overs?
I have a weak stove and have always had trouble keeping a good strong boil.
Until this winter I've always boiled with the lid at least partially on to
keep the temp up. Over this winter I read quite in the HBD about DMS
condensing on lids and falling back into the wort.
My first reaction was to poo poo this, but I tried a little experiment. I
collected the condensation from my lid in a bowl, cooled it and tried it.
Boy! can you say corn. Absolutely over powering corn.
Give it a try.
>I really
>don't like "always" and "never" without substantiation.
I not sure always would apply. Way back (HBD #1942) Charlie Scandrett posted:
>4/ If your kettle has a tight lid, put on an oven mit and hold it down tight
>for 10 minutes at the start of the boil. The little bit of pressure (~1 psi)
>generated will have a noticible effect on the quantity of hot break, and an
>invisible effect on the *quality* of the break. The problematic fraction of
>HWMP's.
So I guess there's a time and place for everything. I don't keep the lid on
my pot at all for the most. But Ed if your not having any problems don't worry.
BTW people use words like "always" and "never" in an attempt to "KISS" (Keep
It Simple Stupid). I and I guess Ed like to know why I doing something, why
it works and why its not done another way. If we all keep it simple we've
lost a valuable resource.
Jeff Smith | '71 HD Sprint 350SX, Temp '77 GS 400 X
snsi@win.bright.net | Barnes, WI
------------------------------
From: mikey@waste.com (Michael A. Owings)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:18:49 GMT
Subject: Re: I can't belive the dumbness-- clearly a troll
The dumbness article is a troll. This became clear after I replied to
the original author and received the following response from
NOKOMAREE@aol.com:
> Michael Owings,
> It is not up to you to criticize what I say.
> Don't be a dummy who contributes to the crap that is said. I say
> something and it is straightforward and true. Others say crap!
Note that I reserver the right to publish all private emails that
become candidates for my latest .sig.
> It is not up to you to criticize what I say.
Don't be a dummy who contributes to the crap that is said. I say
something and it is straightforward and true. Others say crap!
-- Dropping of Wisdom from NOKOMAREE@aol.com
------------------------------
From: "CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865" <CHUDSON@mozart.unm.edu>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:48:54 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: RE: Odor Removal !
Don't worry to much You will most likely never get the smell out of those
buckets. I had one a few years ago and tried bleach, TSP, NH3 and two weeks
outside in the hot desert sun of New Mexico. One day I smelled the container
and it smelled clean! So off I go and brew up a IPA and 5 weeks later I had a
Imperial PICKLE Ale. Hell I spent more on cleaners and such than a new bucket!
Keep the air locks bubbling
Chuck Hudson
chudson@mozart.unm.edu
------------------------------
From: "Thomas K. Simacek" <c22tks@icdc.delcoelect.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 18:04:32 -0400 (CDT)
Subject: male hops
>
> Al writes quoting Tom:
> > >Main problem with wild hops is that they may contain male plants
> > >which polinate the female plants used in brewing.
> > >Polinated hops grow to seeds and are quite useless (at least I was told
so).
>
> > You were told wrong. Seeded hops have slightly lower lupulin content
> > and therefore lower %AA, but are fine for brewing. Fuggle is a variety
> > that I know is grown seeded in the UK (although some farms may grow them
> > unseeded).
>
> Just because they have seeds, does this mean they have been polinated?
> My understanding was that male plants were to be avoided and that one
> of the benefits of triploid strains like Willamette was that they
> were sterile
Yes, avoiding male plants is my understanding too.
I am frankly not well read in the lupulin and all the acids contant etc.
so Al is probably right. However my family used to farm the best Saaz
hops in the world and a part of the procedure was an annual raid on
neigborhood woods and fences to erradicate all possible wild hops in order to
prevent polination. Well maybe they should instead collect the wild hops
and sell them as a second class product? I doubt so, they did not know anything
about lupulin and acids, but they had the empirical experience about how
to grow good hops. That's about all I know about this subject. So if
farmers in England have different experience and somebody likes different hops,
that is OK with me. There are also people out there who love Keystone lite.
Respectfully
Tom Simacek
------------------------------
From: James Dorau <james1@bga.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 18:21:46 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Guinness Ice Cream (last word?)
This somewhat annoying thread has nothing to do with homebrewing,
but I can keep silent no longer. In several major Texas cities
there is an ice cream place called Amy's Ice Cream, of which I am
not affiliated, that makes an outstanding Guinness ice cream.
They've made it long enough to perfect it. And it IS delicious!
On occasions they also make a fantastic Abita Turbo Dog ice cream
(one of Louisiana's finest beers) and one I'm not too mad about,
Shiner Bock ice cream.
If you're dying to try them, I hope you live in Texas, because it's
almost cheaper to fly TO the ice cream instead of IT flying to YOU! :)
They told me the shipment rates are from $50 for a pint to $110 for
2.5 gallons (bulk bargain!). I wonder if they ship barrels..... ;-)
James Dorau
Long time homebrewer, recent ice cream afficionado
------------------------------
From: vee12@juno.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 17:20:17 PST
Subject: Extract Brewing
I know that I'm in the minority, but can anyone recomend an extract which
is not
a heavy beer. I'm looking to brew a lighter type of beer for my better
half.
Butch V.
------------------------------
From: Steve_Cloutier@ATK.COM (Steve Cloutier)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 18:39:12 -0500
Subject: re: understanding/ priming a few bottles
Salutations all!
I am moved to de-lurk by the following:
>After 30 years of home brewing I can't believe the stupidity of the
conversation regarding priming a batch of beer.
What don't you understand?
All you do is dump 1 cup of corn sugar (OR 3/4 CUP OF CANE SUGAR) into a 5
gallon batch and it carbonates!
What in the world is so hard about that??
Why analyze it to death?
Are you really
STUPID???????? <
This unkind remark about people who choose to discuss questions about such
"simple" things as priming sugar, is not a welcome sight on the HBD. This
is a grand forum for those who wish to learn and for those who wish to share
their knowledge, as well as explore their differences. I have learned much
from the collective wisdom (and lack of wisdom) of fellow homebrewers.
I'm surprised you bother with the digest at all, seeing that you are so
obviously informed, intelligent and well mannered. I suspect that you also
have a fondness for bathtubs, Blue Ribbon extract and bread yeast. Or...,
come on now, are you really the Miller brewmaster and you're just upset
about the recent discussion on Heart of the Hops?
Now a question.
If one wishes to bottle only a few bottles from a batch, and keg the rest
with force carbonation, and doesn't have a counterpressure bottle filler,
what is the preferred method for accurately priming the individual bottles?
Private e-mail is fine. TIA.
Lurk mode back on...
'til next time,
Steve Cloutier
SCloutie@atk.com
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2115
****************************
