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HOMEBREW Digest #2128
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/07/29 PDT
Homebrew Digest Tuesday, 30 July 1996 Number 2128
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
herbs in brews ((John (The Coyote) Wyllie))
Cream Stout3 (Schwab_Bryan@CCMAIL.ncsc.navy.mil)
Enough Protein? (Charlie Scandrett)
better in mini-keg than in bottle? (Eugene Sonn)
100% Wheat Malt Extract (BRIAN F. THUMM)
Banana Beer, Politicalization of the HBD ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
Re: Broken Blanched Berries (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
Assorted stuff (David Raitt)
Fourth Annual Peach State Brewoff (egross@emory.edu)
Cooking with beer (Mark Garthwaite)
European Brew Tour (Mark Garthwaite)
5 liter mini-kegs (Michael Mahler/Shiva Corporation)
Beer from wood/bisulfites/wheat hot break/aluminum pots/pectic enzyme (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
Fruit/Pumps (RUSt1d?)
Blue Whale Ale ("Thompson, Brian")
Fermentation Woes (Michael Beatty)
Homebrewing unlawful in Utah? (kmark@tcd.net)
RIMS and Grain Mill Web Page ("C.D. Pritchard")
Nutty Flavor (Runnur2@aol.com)
Water Questions ("KEVIN FONS Q/T MFG X7814 )
Small Corneys ("Jonathan K. ward" )
Canadian brewers? ((Shawn Scolack))
Why not Aluminum (Nymwegen@aol.com)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ccoyote@sunrem.com (John (The Coyote) Wyllie)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:30:43 -0600
Subject: herbs in brews
>
>From: Vincent A Voelz <voel0009@gold.tc.umn.edu>
>Subject: Ground Ivy instead of Hops
>
>... weed known as Creeping Charlie, or Ground Ivy. He stumbled upon several
>references claimimg that this herb can be used to brew beer.
>
>It turns out that before hops were introduced to England, ales were being
>bittered by various wild herbs, including ground ivy, also known as gill-
>over-the-ground, cat's foot, robin-in-the-hedge, alehoof, alecost, field balm.
>Its taste has been described as very bitter, somewhat minty, and has been used
>traditionally to make a bitter tea, as well as having uses as a folk medicinal
>herb and in beer.
>
>MY goal is to try and brew up a batch of a traditional English ale bittered
>with ground ivy, in hopes of reproducing a beer with some historical
>accuracy.
>
>brew an extract batch of some standard English "Bitter" (probably Papazian's
>Righteous Real Ale) replacing hops with Minnesota-grown ground ivy from my
>back yard!
>
* Herbs have been used to bitter beers and meads from early times. They
lost favor in beer making after the discovery of hops, useful for both
their bittering qualities, and protection from infection.
Such herbs as rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano, basil, lavendar, lemongrass
and others have been used to make a mix known as GRUIT- often bound in a
sachet like a tea bag. I suppose if you used herbs from your own yard you
could call it GREW-IT, eh? :) Nyuck. Herbs flavors can be added by
steeping, boiling, or as an infusion. Seeds- known as spices are commonly
used also. Hence the illusive magical properties of coriander. (anyone
want some? Just harvested a LOAD!) Even such things as wormwood have been
added to the ?hallucinogenic? drink absinthe. Don't try this if you like
having two ears.
A word of caution: some herbs are not safe for internal consumption. Some
are intended for external use only. Some can even be toxic to differing
degrees. Many should especially be avoided by pregnant women, and small
children, but you wouldn't be offering them homebrew anyway....right?
>***
>From: Paul A. Hausman <paul@lion.com>
>Subject: Herbal Flavorings -- Has Anyone Tried...?
>
>OK, Summer's dragging on and I've been brewing up a lot of standard
>old pale ales and Bavarian weiss. Suddenly I get this stupid
>urge to get creative. My homegrown herbs are full and fat.
>
>So, I'm thinking of taking a 5 gal batch of a simple light
>ale, low hopping; splitting it to 2-5 secondaries and
>experimenting with a gallon or two of various fresh-herbed
>ales. A few of the things I've considered putting into
>the mix, alone or in combination, are horseraddish, dill (Maybe
>with some cucumber too -- beer and a pickle in a glass?),
>rosemary, sage, mustard, and basil.
>
* hey-hold the pickle, just get one-a-them pickle buckets and ferment in it!HA.
>Anyone had any experience putting any of these (or anything
>else really unique) into an ale?
* I had hoped to do exactly that same thing with a mead, but haven't yet.
I'd be inclined to avoid something as strongly flavored as horseradish, but
hell I've fermented milk, so who am I to talk! And jalapenos are strong
so...
You might want to go for the more usual culinary herbs as they have proven
flavors and aromas known to be pleasant, while the skunkweed might make
your brew taste like an imported Corona. The herbs mentioned at the top
were some I recall having seen in the old-time mead recipes. Although
there were many others which might not be readily available here in
America, though grown commonly on hillsides in Britain. But, who knows
what you might find!
Check the archives at stanford for MLD postings of historic meads. Quite nice.
>Should I have any concerns with killing or suppressing the yeast
>(do these fella's like spicy food?)
* Some herbs may have antibacterial, and possible even anti fungal
activities, but in the quantities you are likely to use for a brew, it
should not be a problem. As stated above, hops were chosen in part due to
their anitbacterial nature. You might be more likely to interfere with
head quality than much else.
Just 2c worth of wasted bandwidth banter from the Coyote.
- --------------------------------------------
/// The Cosmic Coyote \\\ ccoyote@sunrem.com
- --------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Schwab_Bryan@CCMAIL.ncsc.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 06:46:13 CDT
Subject: Cream Stout3
To the parties who reponsed to my inquiry:
Jim Bush
Brad Fabbri
George DePiro
Eugene Sonn
Michael Caprara
Thank you very much for the clarification on which to use in my Cream
( Milk) Stout.
I did not get a chance to respond Friday because I actually had to
perform my job function here at Club Fed! ( Imagine that, Federal
Employees who actually work on friday's, must be an election year!)
What I plan on doing is this:
Now if this doesn't seem acceptable to any of those Stout Heads out
there, by all means get down on me, and set me straight. I mean if I
am going to ponder my Brewin techniques on your (and mine) tax
dollars, you have a right to input where I go wrong!
7# Brit. Pale Malt
8oz. 40/50L Crystal Malt
6oz. Roasted Barley
6oz. Black Patent Malt
1/4 stick of Brewers Licorice
8tsp. Gypsum ( added to mash water)
Northern Brewer Hops @ 8%AAU
?? English Ale WYeast
Plan on using a Double Decoction Mash
and adding the Lactose to the Secondary.
On another note, I also have toyed with fresh fruit additions as well
as fruit flavored extracts. To be honest, strickly from a "purist"
standpoint, I prefer the fresh fruit added to the secondary.(For
color and aroma)Of course I steep the fruit in a pot of 150 degree
water for roughly 15-20 min then cool down to pitching temps prior to
making the addition to the secondary. If I use frozen fruit, I just
thaw, and add to secondary. I generally use about a pound to pound
and a half per gallon and usually my results have been rewarding with
color and flavor. ( my current mead is an exception though, 10 pounds
of cherries for a 5 gallon batch)In my humble opinion, extracts are
"give aways" due to their "overpowering" aroma. And the addition of
these extracts prior to bottling or keggin' just doesn't sit to well
with me. I like the possibilities of potential volcanoes when I add
the fruit to the secondary and forget to use the blow-off tube! :)
Thanks again to those to assisted me with my Cream Stout concerns!
Bryan
------------------------------
From: Charlie Scandrett <merino@buggs.cynergy.com.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 22:23:55 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Enough Protein?
Chuck Berkins posted,
>you still have to worry about proteins non-specifically
>adsorbing to the filters <SNIP>
>If you have enough protein to be filtered, however, you can just do
>it anyway, because once the filter has adsorbed its fill, it won't eat any
>more. Does anybody know how much protein is in solution in beer? (I suppose
>that depends).
Most beers contain 300-1000 ppm total nitrogen, which (when multiplied by
6.25) represents < 1% protein in beer. A very small proportion is FAN, and
another very small proportion > 100,000 MW. The biggest fraction is in the
5,000-12,000 MW range.
It has been experimentally proved that there is about 4-5 times as much
Medium Weight surface active proteins in an all malt, single step infusion
mashed beer to hold an acceptable head.(As long as lipids are low enough) A
head measuring device and progressive dilution was used to come to this
conclusion. However in decoction with medium modification malts it is a lot
more critical.(I forget how much excess)
With all malts available in the US and UK it seems practically impossible
using all malt recipes to have too little FAN (amino acids), too much is
more likely. Thus, I can't think of any reason to spend more than ten
minutes between 45C and 55C?(*peptidase* rest) You will already have enough
FAN, and over-reduction of Medium Weight Proteins is only significant in
this range.
The "protein rest" (I dislike the use of that general term, it is
misleading) in Fix's 40-*60*-70 schedule is at the top end for a
*proteinase* rest and would only reduce High Molecular Weight Proteins to
Medium anyway. I can't see much chance of loss of head or mouth feel
proteins in infusion mashed beers that minimise the 45C-55C time. Lipids
(from fast runoff shallow lauters) are a more likly culprit with head problems.
The good people at Amicon Tech. (thanks for your research John Carpenter)
say that
> Their 10,000 MWCO(molecular weight cutoff)
>membrane is 10 Angstroms, the 100,000 MWCO is 100 Angstroms....she said
>1 million = 1000 Angstroms or 0.1 microns, and she thought the
>relationship was linear. So.... 10 million MWCO is 1 micron. A 5 micron
>filter would only filter out globular proteins with molecular weights of
>greater than 50 million. That's a pretty big protein, <SNIP>
>about 7-10 microns. So my conclusion is you can filter your beer through a
>5 micron filter and remove the yeast and any remaining trub and not have
>to worry about filtering out any of the other "flavor" proteins.
The *most* haze forming proteins are of the order of 50,000 plus. The
"MMWP's" of brewing are of the order of 5,000-50,000. These are the
mouthfeel and head retaining proteins, although they overlap with haze
forming ones. Proteins greater than 1,000,000 (HMWP) have no chance of
surviving a 60 minute boil and end up in the trub. (One reason for a 58-60C
rest is to reduce these HWMPs to Medium Weights that could survive the
boil.) Thus with a 5 micron filter, *all* soluble beer protein should pass
through except for "protein binding" to the filter medium itself. (As Chuck
Burkins pointed out.) Some yeast would also get through 5 microns.
>From Amicon's info above, a 2 micron or even 0.2 micron filter would also
not seem to be a problem. However 0.2 micron sterile filtrations in
breweries reportedly give a thinner mouthfeel although Amicon says molecular
weights as high as 1,000,000 should sail through? Something doesn't gel
here? I will research this further unless someone has data.
It is interesting to note that the "Ice Beer" technique was partly directed
at getting tiny icicles to form (nucleate) around all insolubles (yeast,
haze, bacteria) however small, and thus allow sterile filtration at larger
micron ratings, preserving the mouthfeel of larger solubles. Pastuerisation
with the same filters would give a good beer too, but that cost more and
wasn't as sexy for the marketing department.
At present 5 micron would seem to filter fat yeast, yeast flocs, and larger
haze flocs. Smaller yeast and *any* soluble protein should pass through.(As
John Carpenter posted) BTW, this is Fix's preferred filter pore size, he
likes some invisible yeast in his beer. Also, avoiding 45C-55C peptidase
rest, and including a 58-60C proteinase rest will maximise your available
MMWPs.
The relationship between these and dextrins in contribution to mouthfeel
would be interesting to understand fully.
Charlie (Brisbane, Australia)
------------------------------
From: Eugene Sonn <eugene@dreamscape.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 08:35:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: better in mini-keg than in bottle?
I had some friends visiting this weekend and as we were sampling a
fruit-wheat beer, they both said they liked the beer much better as
sampled from a 5l mini-keg than from bottles. Has anyone had such an
experience. I started using the mini-kegs for convenience reasons, but
this would be a great boost if kegged beer tasted better. I have a
suspicion that maybe my friends are just not as adept at pouring homebrew
from a bottle and the "better" beer simply had no yeast dregs.
Suggestion/hypothesis to explain this would be most welcome.
Eugene Sonn
brewer in chief, Hosehead Brewery
------------------------------
From: BRIAN F. THUMM <THUMMBF@GWSMTP.NU.COM>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 08:23:28 -0400
Subject: 100% Wheat Malt Extract
Everywhere I read, I see that weizen beers need a malt of at least 50% wheat.
Most extracts are 60/40 (wheat/barley). What will 100% wheat taste like? Can
I make a good weizen with 100% wheat? What about a fruit wheat
(raspberry/blackberry)? Do I need to cut the wheat malt with some barley malt?
Or just hop less?
------------------------------
From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD@HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:27:00 -0500
Subject: Banana Beer, Politicalization of the HBD
Dear collective intelligence,
Did you ever have a deal so good you could
not pass it up? Well mine came in the form of 10 pounds
of bananas for a dollar. As it turned out, no human can
eat this amount of bananas without severe gastro-
intestinal distress. The bananas were beginning to leak
when I decided to brew with them. Not having a credible
recipe, I pureed them and froze the pulp. Requests:
1. Recipes calling for 8-10 pounds of ripe banana
puree.
2. Special preparation instructions; eg. pectin enzyme.
3. Is this a bad idea (like my sagebrush ale)?
Additionally Ron writes:
>>>>>Randy Weaver didn't, The Branch Divididians didn't,
and the list goes on and on. The BATF is an outlaw
organization of the Federal Government. They simply
haven't bothered homebrewers because they are too
busy murdering American citizens <<<<<<<<
Yada, Yada, Yada.....Ron, keep your political ramblings
to yourself. This is not the correct forum.
>>>>>Homebrewers should unite with gun owners in
supporting the dissoluton of the BATF and the
incorporation of its responsibilities into other , more
responsible, federal organizations.<<<<<<<<<
Please don't sign me up for this program. Not every-
one shares your political views. The HBD is beginning to
sound like USENET (or USELESSNET as I like to
consider it).
Daniel Goodale (yes, that is my real name)
The Biohazard Brewing Company
I like to consider myself a chemical super-freak.
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 10:04:46 CDT
Subject: Re: Broken Blanched Berries
Ken writes:
>AlK writes:
>
><<
>Primarily I'm thinking of blueberries and raspberries because I've had
>trouble blanching these (they fall apart when you dip frozen berries in
>boiling water for few
>seconds -- I ended up having to put the blanching water right into the
>secondary too).
>>>
>
>Have you tried blanching the berries in a strainer dipped into the hot water?
> Should keep the little buggers where you want'em.
This is exactly what I did. Worked great for cherries. As soon as I dipped
the raspberries into the water, the water turned red. The juice came pouring
out of the fruit! This is why I ended up dumping the blanching water right
into the secondary -- I would have lost too much juice.
Al.
------------------------------
From: David Raitt <draitt@scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:02:44 -0400
Subject: Assorted stuff
Before I get on to my main theme, I would just note the following exchange
in HBD 2127:
>Ron wrote:
>Regarding the statement
>>So, how many of us can expect the BATF to come bustin' down the door?
>...
>The BATF is an outlaw organization of the Federal Government.....
Unless we want a flame war, completely unrelated to brewing, that will make
NOKOMAREE look like child's play, I think these types of comments are better
reserved for private e-mail.
*************************************************
Back to brewing. I am in an unfortunate hiatus right now, since I will be
moving halfway across the country in a few weeks and I don't think that
moving full carboys would be a good thing. So I imagine that I will be ready
to start up again pretty much as soon as I reach Austin. Now I have pretty
much checked out the suppliers there and know what to expect. But I would be
interested to know what the clubs are like. According to the brewery there
are two clubs in Austin. Can anyone give me an idea of what these clubs are
like -- how active they are and so on.
I imagine that private e-mail would be most appropriate.
David
draitt@scri.fsu.edu
------------------------------
From: egross@emory.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:31:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fourth Annual Peach State Brewoff
The fourth annual Peach State Brewoff will take place at the Atlanta
Beer Garten Brewery Restaurant on Saturday September 14th at 10am. The PS
Brewoff is sponsored by the largest homebrew club in the Atlanta area,
the Covert Hops Society, and is sanctioned by both the AHA and the BJCP.
The PSBO follows the 1996 AHA guidelines.The PSBO is open to all
homebrewers. Entries are due before 6pm on September 6th, though walkins
will be accepted the day of judging if the beer has been pre-registered.
Each entry must include a COMPLETE registration form with recipe,and at
least 3 unlabeled plain 10 to 22 oz brown or green capped bottles with
bottle forms attached to each bottle with a rubber band. Clear, plastic or
swingtop bottles will be disqualified. Entry fees are $7each for 1 or 2
entries,and $6 for 3 or more entries. Entries can be dropped off in the
Atlanta area at BYOB, Midtown Brewers Supply, Marietta Homebrew Supply
and both Amber Waves Brewing Supplies stores, or mailed to Peach State
Brewoff, c/o Amber Waves Brewing Supplies, 1860-F Spring Road, Smyrna,GA
30080. Ribbons will be awarded to the best three entries in each category
although some categories may be combined if there are insufficient
entries. We are attempting to get prizes from local micros and brewpubs as
well. The Ale Grail will be awarded to the homebrew club that recieves
the most points based on ribbons awarded. Last year we had about 230
entries and we expect 300 or so this year.We need judges, stewards and of
course entries. Winners can go on to the next Southeast Homebrewer of the
Year competition (SHY). For entry forms,judging forms and other inquiries
please contact the organizer: The Covert Hops Society c/o Chris Terenzi
at (770) 384-1448 or by email CTERENZI@aol.com Entry forms are also
available at the drop off points. Thank you, Lee Gross, co-organizer.
------------------------------
From: Mark Garthwaite <mgarth@primate.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:21:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Cooking with beer
A while back I posted a question regarding cooking with beer.
Thanks to those who responded. Today I picked up my morning Wisconsin
State Journal and there was an article (taken from the Orange County
Register) describing the very subject for which I seek info! The article
describes a book called, "Famous Chefs Cook With Beer" by W. Scott
Griffiths and Christopher Finch. (Doubleday $25). I'm on my way to the
bookstore!
- -Mark Garthwaite
(mgarth@primate.wisc.edu)
------------------------------
From: Mark Garthwaite <mgarth@primate.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:30:10 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: European Brew Tour
In less than a month I'll be on my way to Europe for a 3 month
backpacking/brew tour. Countries included...Ireland, U.K, Belgium,
Germany, Austria, Italy, France, and Spain. Any advice for someone who
wants to experience the widest spectrum of brews possible? If there are
any homebrewers in any of these countries who are hooked up to the HBD I
would love to hear from you! Also, anyone know anything about the rules
for shipping beer back to the States?
Thanks!
- -Mark Garthwaite
(mgarth@primate.wisc.edu)
------------------------------
From: Michael Mahler/Shiva Corporation
Date: 29 Jul 96 11:40:20 EDT
Subject: 5 liter mini-kegs
I tried using mine for the first time last night and I think I have a piece
missing from the CO2 tap. Can someone tell me if there is supposed to be a
lever on the end of it to actuate the piston that pulls out? Or am I supposed
to be the man of steel and pull it out by hand?
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 13:24:42 CDT
Subject: Beer from wood/bisulfites/wheat hot break/aluminum pots/pectic enzyme
Tom writes:
>I have read some article about that. Originally coopers used
>wooden resins (pinewood??) or wax and burned them in barrels as described
>above.
>It was a procedure used for all (almost all) kegs and did increase the keg
>life since wood rots when in contact with water. It is the dry wood which
>can last forever.
This may be true, but I think the article you read was wrong about several
things. First of all, I am willing to bet that most barrels used for beer
or wine are uncoated. Our first stop on the tour of Tadcaster Brewery
(Samuel Smith's) was in the cooper's shop and the first question I asked
was are the casks coated. The answer was no. There is an organization
in Britain similar to CAMRA which strives to support the use of wood casks
among brewers. There are only a handful of them left. It's called something
like "Beer From the Wood Society." Hardwoods hold up pretty well in contact
with water, witness the 100+ year-old casks at Cantillon (where all the
beer is fermented in wood) in Anderlicht, Brussels, Belgium.
***
David writes:
>My point was, however, ( do I write so poorly that people
>misunderstand me?) that bisulfite does two jobs it sterilizes the fruit AND
>slows down the browning (which is where the FF reference came in) until the
>yeast can get to producing a protective layer of CO2 it.
I don't know about bisulfites reducing browning (although I hadn't heard
about it before this) but metabisulfites (Sodium, Potassium, aka Campden
tablets) ***DO NOT*** sterilize anything. They don't even sanitize the
fruit juice very well. They do kill some yeasts and bacteria but for the
most part they simply inhibit the growth of the wild yeast from the surface
of the fruit so that your cultured yeast can gain a competitive edge.
***
Mark writes:
>i've not had a stuck mash with finely ground wheat (60/40 wheat/barley), but
>i did notice that my spargings did not clear well. this led to a massive
>amount of hot break in the kettle. anybody else had this happen?
The ugliest, scariest hot break I've gotten was when I tried mashing some
whole wheat flour. The break looked like gray, rubber, dog droppings
swimming in the wort. The beer turned out fine (it was a Wit, incidentally).
***
Eric writes:
> I have heard that it is best to not use Aluminum to boil your
> wort. I only recently found this out, and I have to say that I
> boiled my last batch in a coated aluminum stock pot that I had
> handy. Could somebody please clear this up for me? Do I need to
> purchase a stainless steel stockpot?
The definitive article on the subject was in Brewing Techniques a year
or so ago. Bottom line was that beer made in two kettles (one SS, one
aluminium) was tested for alumimium and they both had the same amount.
As for the metallic taste that some claim, I've read that this can occur
if you scrub the kettle so hard that you rub off the protective oxide
coating that naturally forms on the metal. You should also be sure to
not use any strong acids or bases on aluminium kettles or utensils.
***
Kevin writes:
>When the temp hits around 100 I add pectic enzyme to break down those
>nasty haze inducing pectins and release more juice (well, that is
>what it says on the package). I don't know the proper temp range for
>this enzyme but 100 seems to work for me (if anyone knows the proper
>temp please post!).
I hope this doesn't start up another enzyme kinetics thread, but my
*guess* would be that 100F is rather hot for pectic enzyme. I don't
know the recommended temperature, but I was told by my wholesaler (when
I ordered some for a customer) that it must be kept refrigerated or it
will quickly spoil. Whether it lasts 2 min or 2 hrs at 100F I don't know,
but given the instructions from my wholesaler, I would wait till the
fruit got to room temperature before adding the pectic enzyme.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:25:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fruit/Pumps
Fruit: Freezer to Fermenter...
To sanitize my fruit, I placed the berries in a large zip lock bag, and
placed this in the freezer for a few days. I then boiled a large pot of
water, and took the bag from the freezer and plopped it right into the=20
boiling water. Since this quickly cooled the water, I added heat until=20
it settled at 170F. I maintained this temp for 1/2 hour and called the
fruit sanitized. I then smashed all the berries between my fingers,=20
snipped the corner of the bag and squeezed the goo into my secondary.
Quite righteous.
Pumps: March Model MDX
I got the U.S. Plastics Corp catalog and am about to purchase two of the=20
March pumps listed on the bottom of page 52, but which one?
"Glass filled polypropylene pump housing & impeller. 316 Stainless Steel
spindle, 6.0 and 7.6 GPM capacity. This line of March pumps is designed
for mildly corrosive applications such as mildly acidic, alkaline, and
salt solutions, photographic solutions and sanitary liquid food appli-
cations. All feature the magnetic drive which eliminates any shaft seal
and the wing nuts on the housing cover for quick, easy cleaning. Two
size pumps are available with choice of connectors. The drive motors
are the open type, fan cooled, 115 V., 60 Hz., single phase and with
thermal overload protection. Not self-priming. Max. liquid temp 190=B0F."
Max Motor Motor Inlet Outlet
Stock Model GPM HP RPM Connect Connect Price
- ----- ----- --- ----- ----- -------- ------- ----- =20
95045 MDX 6.0 1/50 1700 1/2" OD 1/2" OD 94.55
95046 MDXT 6.0 1/50 1700 1/2" FPT 3/8" FPT 94.55
95047 MDX-3 6.0 1/25 3400 1/2" OD 1/2" OD 100.00
95048 MDXT-3 7.6 1/25 3400 1/2" FPT 3/8" FPT 100.00
So which is the best for a 15 gallon single tier RIMS system?
Also, the 15 gallon chem-mix tanks with 60=B0 sloped conical bottoms listed
on page 13 are low density polyethylene (LDPE), FDA approved for potable
water. Are these suitable fermenters? They are kinda pricey at $68.80 for=20
the vessel and $84.82 for the stand. Perhaps I should stick with my 15.5
sanke open fermenter?
It's time to build that RIMS system, my brew partner backed out at the last
minute for the last time...
John Varady
Boneyard Brewing Co.
"Now I got a murder rap, cause I bus' your cap with flavor. Pure flavor."=20
Flav-o-flav
------------------------------
From: "Thompson, Brian" <bthompson@mfi.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 12:05:33 PST
Subject: Blue Whale Ale
About the Blue Whale Ale, I went over to Pacific Coast Brewing Co. in Oakland
yesterday and had the original Blue Whale, on which the Zymurgy and HopTech
recipes are based. I'll start by saying that it IS hoppy. About the hoppiest
darn beer I've ever tried. The aroma alone is big and citrusy, all Chinook. The
taste is very smooth and drinkable though, the hops do overpower the maltiness,
but it such a high SG (1.070) brew that there is more blance than you would
expect. Nice amber color, good mouthfeel. Pacific Coast ages it in oak casks
(or
so they say, my guess would be oak chips in SS tanks) so it does apparently
mellow nicely. I'm not a hop head and I wouldn't brew this, but it wasn't bad;
just think of the biggest IPA you can and that's about what it is.
Unfortunately the brewmaster wasn't there and no one could confirm whether the
hop schedule that ran in Zymurgy was what they at PC use or not; 170 IBUs
sounds
like a lot though judging from the taste.
Hoppy Brewing,
Brian Thompson
bthompson@mfi.com
------------------------------
From: Michael Beatty <mbeatty@STLMPE-4.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 14:03:14 CDT
Subject: Fermentation Woes
Dear Collective,
A long time lurker, I finally found the time to brew my first
batch! Quite the experience (I'll definitely be doing this more
often), but I'm perplexed by a potential problem (I think?).
Here's the situation:
I brewed a Scot's Brown Ale kit (from Ozark Missouri, no
affiliation, blah, blah). It was a hot evening, so the wort was a
tad slow cooling down in an ice bath. I pitched dry yeast at
85F and anxiously awaited my first bubble in the fermentation lock.
Well, 5 days later, still no activity. I made a trip to the local
brew supply store and purchased some ale yeast to repitch. I
repitched using bottled drinking water to dissolve (used tap water
the first time) and repitched. Four days after repitching, I saw
my first bubble. It was bubbling over 2 days at the rate of about 1
per minute and has since slowed down considerably (total of 6 days
now after repitch). I was under the impression that the bubbling
should occur at a much faster rate (ie. more vigorous fermentation),
and am now concerned about the batch.
Some other info that might be useful is that I'm in a semi-rural
area, so the tap water is actually processed lake water with
chlorine content at a max of 60ppm (to my recollection).
I boiled with 2 gal of tap water, and poured into 3 gallons of very
chilled drinking water from the grocery store.
Questions:
1. Should I wait it out for a few more days?
2. Attempt a repitch?(this time liquid yeast)
3. Check the gravity to see if I had turbo-fermentation when I wasn't
looking?
4. Call my Mommie?
All help is appreciated, and if the response warrants, I'll post a
summary for us beginners. Thanks to all for educating me with the
collective wisdom and experience. It made the virgin batch much
easier to understand!
Mike Beatty
------------------------------
From: kmark@tcd.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:43:16 -0600
Subject: Homebrewing unlawful in Utah?
I came across a link that stated in Utah you must be licensed to brew beer.
It also stated that homebrewers are not granted licenses.
Is anyone familiar with the laws in Utah pertaining to homebrewing?
TIA.
Kyle Marks
kmark@tcd.net
Kyle
------------------------------
From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp@mail.chattanooga.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 16:42 EDT
Subject: RIMS and Grain Mill Web Page
My RIMS and concrete roller grain mill have been documented on my web page. The
URL should appear in the sig. below.
Happy Brewing!
c.d. pritchard (cdp@chattanooga.net)
web page: http://caladan.chattanooga.net/~cdp/index.html
------------------------------
From: Runnur2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:23:40 -0400
Subject: Nutty Flavor
Perhaps I am nutty for asking this, but I will anyway.
I tasted a brown ale at one of our club meetings. It had a
wonderful delicate taste of hickory nuts as an aftertaste.
I failed to speak to the brewer and now would like to duplicate
this. Can anyone out there tell me how to impart a nutty
flavor to my beer?
TIA, Neil
------------------------------
From: "KEVIN FONS Q/T MFG X7814 <KFONS@QTIWORLD.COM>" <KFONS@qtiworld.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:31:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Water Questions
I have just obtained some information on my water, and I have alot of
questions.
Here are the numbers:
Ca 62
SO4 9
Mg 33
Na 4
Cl 3
CO3 330??
Hardnes 283
Alk'y 270 (as CaCO3)
PH 7.5
Here are the questions:
1) The city did not have a figure for CO3, some information I found via the
internet said to multiply my Alkalinity by 1.22 (if my PH was between 7
and 9). Is this correct, or close at least?
2) Is there any other info I need?
3) Any suggestions on the quality of the water and it's suitability for various
styles?
4) I plan on removing my chlorine by using a charcoal filter or through
boiling, what will this do to the chemistry of my water?
TIA,
Kevin
===========================================================================
Kevin Fons <kfons@execpc.com> or <kfons@qtiworld.com>
Industrial/Systems Engineer Quad/Tech International
===========================================================================
Standard disclaimer applies...
------------------------------
From: "Jonathan K. ward" <Jonathan_K._ward@mckinsey.com>
Date: 19 Jul 96 15:39:04
Subject: Small Corneys
Brewers:
Someone mentioned spotting mini-corneys at a McDonalds. I recall seeing these
in one of the Papazian books, and was wondering if anyone knows where to get
them, price, etc. I don't think any of the homebrew suppliers in my area have
them. Post to list or private email (depending on length, etc.). TIA.
Jonathan Ward
Chicago, IL
------------------------------
From: Shawn.Scolack@tsr.gcastle.com (Shawn Scolack)
Date: 29 Jul 96 13:56:22 -0500
Subject: Canadian brewers?
Reply-To: Shawn.Scolack@tsr.gcastle.com
Hey,
I'm a beginner from Windsor Ontario and I'm looking for good businesses to do
mail order with. Getting supplies here hasn't been as easy as I thought, so
I'd like to try mail ordering some stuff. Can anyone recommend some good
- -#Canadian mail order-places, -or US ones that do buisness with Canadians?
Email me if you can help... thanks. By the way, if there are any other Windsor
brewers on the list, drop me a line too.
Shawn.Scolack@TSR.gcastle.com
- -#
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Source: The Staff Room BBS, 519-979-4208, FIDO: 1:246/12
Over 450Meg of quality educational shareware for the taking!
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
[Created by the Internet Connection 4.0/Registered 07-29-96 13:51:53]
------------------------------
From: Nymwegen@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 22:52:37 -0400
Subject: Why not Aluminum
I've been brewing homemade for a couple of years now and always use an
aluminum (Calphalon) kettle. Never have I experienced any off flavors,
Alzheimer's, or other side affects. Go for it.
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2128
****************************
