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HOMEBREW Digest #2119
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/07/22 PDT
Homebrew Digest Tuesday, 23 July 1996 Number 2119
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Wheat proteins ((George De Piro))
oxygen (lbread@iag.net)
Home Brauhaus Q's/false bottom placement (([Michael Otten]))
NOKOMAREE@AOL.COM ("Michael R. Swan")
gelatin/carbonation/Summer poll/invert sugar/haze/polyethylene (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
Porter (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
Cider and mead (Jorge Blasig - IQ)
Dumb ((LaBorde, Ronald))
Opinion of the dumb (CHRISTOPHER DIIORIO )
Re: NOKOMARKEE (John Varady)
Made in the Shade IV (Homebrew Competition) ((Jeff Handley & Gene Almquist))
Unmalted Wheat, Fruit Extracts (Todd Kirby)
Re: NOKOMARKEE (John Varady)
Green Copper / Fermentation Temperature and Refrigerator Miscellania (KennyEddy@aol.com)
DME dingle balls and assorted trials.... (Dckdog@aol.com)
mash temps/Special B (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
Homemade grain mill with wood roller (Dennis Cabell)
Homemade grain mill with wood roller (Dennis Cabell)
Catalogues (Jesse)
pH Measurement, the Answers (Esbitter@aol.com)
Mellinoidin w/o the hassle ((Bob Ledden))
just a little gas -- the bubbles in Guiness (PIRIC)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 14:17:39 -0700
Subject: Wheat proteins
This is somewhat brewing related. If you're not interested in protein
chemistry, page down now!
The June 27, 1996 issue of NATURE (p.738) reports that the "largest
proteins in nature occur in wheat flower...these wheat gluten polymers
[have] relative molecular masses ranging up into the tens of
millions."
It goes on to describe the similarity between this protein (glutenin),
which is actually a polymer of many shorter proteins joined by
disulphide bonds, and the muscle protein, titin (which is the largest
single-chain polypeptide).
They both have elastic properties, which is why wheat is such a good
baking grain (the dough is viscous and elastic enough to trap gas
bubbles produced by yeast).
The discrete polypeptides that form glutenin "constitute about half of
the protein of wheat gluten."
It goes on, "The very size of the glutenin polymers makes them
insoluble in water..."
No wonder you need a protein rest when mashing unmalted wheat!!! I
wonder how much of this stuff survives the malting process? At least
some, I would bet!
That would explain (in part) the high wort viscocity of wheat brews.
It's not just the quantity of protein, it's the properties of the
protein.
I guess this just emphasizes the need for a rest in the optimum
temperture range of proteases when using wheat, especially if not
malted!
Sorry if this bored folks. I bet Tracy liked it!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: lbread@iag.net
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 14:46:38 -0700
Subject: oxygen
Bill,
Reference your question (Homebrew digest #2084 27Jun96) on the
differences for grades of oxygen. If there no difference between welding
and medical grade oxygen, why do they have different grades? Welding
Grade oxygen is not food grade nor sanitary. Welding grae Oxygen should
NEVER be used for human consumption. You may contact me at
lbread@iag.net.
John Cheek
Liquid Bread, Inc.
------------------------------
From: motten@fcmc.com ([Michael Otten])
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 15:14:21 EDT
Subject: Home Brauhaus Q's/false bottom placement
Hi,
I am currently in the planning stage of creating a Brauhaus in my
basement. The system will be your typical 2 tier, 1/2 barrel system.
I have the parts for the system (for the most part) but my concern
right now is safety. I have heard all the warnings about not using
propane cookers indoors, but are there any which are safe for indoor
use (other sources of heat are currently unavailable) ? If not, does
anyone know of exhaust fans or the like which are effective in reducing
Carbon Monoxide and other fumes which would be hazardous to me or my
family? On the topic of Carbon Monoxide, are there any recommendations
for CO detectors? Are there any other suggestions from others who
have made an indoor system?
Now a brewing question: My friend and I brew 10 gallon batches using
his 2 tier system with a converted, insulated keg (1/2 barrel) as a
mash tun. The false bottom is probably 3-4 inches above the bottom of
the mash tun. When we add the water to the grains for the initial rest
at 122F, how should we account for the volume of water below the false
bottom (probably 2 1/2 - 3 gals)? Should we disregard it as far as the
mash goes, but include it when taking into account the amount of liquid
desired for sparging and the boil ? Is placement of the false bottom
important? Should I make the attempt to have as low a false bottom as
possible when assembling my system?
TIA , private responses are fine.
Mike Otten Connetquot River Brewing co. motten@fcmc.com
------------------------------
From: "Michael R. Swan" <mswan@fdic.gov>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 15:22:04 EDT
Subject: NOKOMAREE@AOL.COM
Clark Ritchie has a very good theory about NOKOMAREE having some
connection to John Carey. Mr. Carey posted the following beer recipe earlier
this year, and was flamed for it:
>Ingredients:
> 4 kg white sugar,(corn if preferred)
> 2 cans (1.13kg) Brewmix malt
> 1 can doric malt
> various types of hop pellets to taste.
>This makes 14 doz. bottles of brew. About 7%
> alcohol by vol.
> ... <snip>
I have a different theory:
Mr. NOKOMAREE was sent here to convince the readers of the HBD that
this publication cannot survive unless it becomes *moderated* Think about it-
- --first we get 3 or 4 issues per day, preventing everyone from doing anything
else but reading the HBD, and now we have this alias come on posting insults,
inviting insults in return. Having a moderated digest will seem like the
only valid option after a few more issues. I sure hope I'm wrong though.
Mike Swan
goldswan@cyberramp.net
Standard disclaimers apply
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 14:41:35 CDT
Subject: gelatin/carbonation/Summer poll/invert sugar/haze/polyethylene
Douglas writes:
>In winemaking, gelatin (about 3 grams dissolved in 1 cup water per 5
>gallons to be cleared) does great. The only thing is that it
>reacts/bonds/clings to tannin, which is desirable in reds. As far a beer
>goes, I would guess it does the same thing. <snip>
Gelatin primarily helps settle yeast. It works like Isinglass although
it is reported (in various books, most compleatly, I believe, in Terry
Foster's talk in one of the Beer and Brewing series from Brewer's
Publications) that it is not at good at settling yeast as Isinglass.
Gelatin may have some attraction to tannin, but this is not it's primary
use and if it's tannins you are trying to remove, Polyclar works far
better.
***
George writes:
Next, a question: Does anybody dispense beer from kegs at "proper"
temperatures (50-55F)? I've read all about
pressure-drop-per-length-of-tubing, etc., and calculated that I needed
31 FEET of hose to dispense ale @ 55F and 28-30 psi.
Firstly, even without consulting the tables, 28-30 psi is very high
for dispensing beer at 55F. Okay, now I've looked at the tables and
it's about 3.1 or 3.2 volumes of CO2. This is pretty high. Typically,
you would want 2.0 to 2.4 volumes for British-style beers, 2.4 to 2.85
for most other beers and 2.85 to 3.0 for high-carbonation beers such
as Duvel and Weizens.
At 55F, for 2.4 volumes you would use 19 psi and for 2.7 volumes, 23 psi.
As for hose length, if you have a lot of pressure to drop, don't try to
drop it with 1/4" ID hose. Get some 3/16" ID hose which has a much
greater drop per foot. I serve my beers typically at 50F and use 6 feet
of 3/16" ID hose which coils nicely on top of the keg in the chest freezer.
***
Well, I missed the "brewing in Summer" poll, but would have answered "no"
prior to last Friday and "yes" since. I'd like to add, however, that in the
interest of avoiding infection from the airborn nasties that I KNOW are
floating around my house, I siphoned rather than poured my wort into a
carboy that had been purged with oxygen. I then oxygenated with an
Oxynater(tm).
***
Fred writes:
>Making invert sugar is very easy. Dissolve 1 pound of cane sugar in 1/4
>cup of water in a stainless steel or enamel pot. Warm until syrupy, then
>add 1/8 teaspoon tartaric acid and heat a few minutes until light golden.
>Do not boil. [source: Zymurgy,Vol 17, No. 1, Spring 1994, "How Sweet It Is
>- - Brewing With Sugar" by Jeff Frane.
Recently, in private email, someone sent me a note about invert sugar.
I'm afraid I've lost it or printed and deleted the email. In any event,
this was a chemist who said that only a small portion of the sucrose would
get inverted in a short, 10-minute, boil. Perhaps whoever this was (sorry)
could post more on this in the HBD... I'd like to know and I'm sure that
there are others who would too.
***
Dave writes:
>The bad news: Haze. Not just chill haze (but I'm sure it'll get worse when
>old), but major haze even at 68F. Some seems to have settled since racking to
>econdary 5 days ago. But still has that "muddy" look when I do the penlight
>test.
>
>The question: I usually do a protein rest, and have good clarity (using same
>yeast - it's a great floc'r). But since I did things the "wrong" way, what is
>the best remedy for the secondary to reduce the haze to an acceptable amount?
>I'm pretty certain it isn't yeast or starch, but most likely to be big
>proteins. I've read about papain and Polyclar in several books, but have never
>used either. I knew going into this batch that flaked barley can cause haze
>problems, so it's usually used only in porters.
Dave later wrote that perhaps papain would not be a good idea because it
may reduce the heavy body. Indeed. Papain does work well to cut up proteins
and they are the source of your heavy body. Papain doesn't care which
proteins it cuts up and you probably don't want to heat your beer to denature
the papain so in the end you will have very thin beer. If indeed it's protein,
one thing you could do is (believe it or not) add tannin! This is a rather
radical approach and would require lots of aging to settle the chillhaze you
would be creating. How much should be added is a mystery to me. You could
add a little and see how it works, then try adding more, or you could add
a lot and then try to clean up any excess after racking by adding Polyclar.
***
Mike writes:
>David Bradley mentions:
>>15gal tank made of medium density polyethylene, FDA approved for water use,
>>60 degree sloped conical section, 2" FPT bottom outlet, a 10" top opening
>>"positive locking fillwell" ...
>
>This sounds like the perfect fermenter for my 15 gal. batches! Only one
>concern - will oxidation be a problem? Does anybody know how permeable
>polyethylene is to oxygen? Is oxidation even a concern if I was to use
>this as a primary only, racking off after a week or so?
Polyethylene is pretty permiable to oxygen. I haven't read about medium-
density, only low (LDPE) and high (HDPE). LDPE is what plastic sandwich
bags are made of and HDPE is what's used for virtually everything from
those white plastic fermentation buckets to garbage cans. HDPE is pretty
oxygen-permiable as plastics go, but LDPE is much worse. I would imagine
that MDPE would be between the two in permiability. If the plastic is
thick (1/8" or better) and the closures seal well, I would guess that
you should not have any problems with oxidation for several weeks. I
would not lager in these vessels. For ales, it does sound like a great
fermenter... I may get a few myself!
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 14:49:24 CDT
Subject: Porter
Wheeler (via Rob) writes:
>Thus the original London porter was invented by the people of
>London, the collective drinking public, and not by Ralph Harwood as many
>people assert.
Among these many people is Terry Foster whose very well-researched book
"Porter" contradicts this statement. Dr. John Harrison would be a good
person to ask to mediate, or at least cast the tie-breaking vote.
Geoff... are you still on-line? Could you ask John what his research
has shown and post here? Thanks.
Wheeler also writes:
>This is the Belgian Rodenbach, which has it's origins in
>London Porter, and is itself a blend of a sour beer, stored for 18 months in
>large oak vats, and a relatively fresh beer that is only a month or so old.
>Furthermore they also sell the sour or "stale" beer on it's own, under the
>name of Rodenbach Grand Cru.
I question that Rodenbach is at all related to London Porter. I would like
to see some references for this statement.
Wheeler:
>but nevertheless the sourness of Grand Cru is not unpleasant. It has
>flavors of both acetic and citric acidity, providing a sourness which is
>quite mellow. It is nothing like the back-shuddering sourness of badly kept
>beer in the pub that many people regard as vinegary. Perhaps the souring
>microbe are different,...
Perhaps the author should be sure before he puts pen to paper. Indeed the
microbe is different. Lactic acid bacteria and acetic acid are very different
not only in their products but also in that the former are facultative
anaerobes and the latter are strict aerobes! For the record, I personally get
no acetic (vinegary) character in either of the Rodenbach beers.
Wheeler:
>The newly introduced Guinness "Harwood's Porter" breaks history on
>two grounds. Not only is it the first cask conditioned beer ever to be made
>at the Park Royal Brewery, but it is the only example of the new generation
>of porters that is a proper porter; a blend of mild and stale like old time
>porters used to be.
Had Mr. Wheeler researched a little further, he would have found that
mixing soured beer with fresh is nothing new or history-breaking to
Guinness and that they have been making their flagship beer this way
for quite some time.
Reading back at what I've written, it sounds a little harsh, but in my
opinion, under-researching our posts to the digests is one thing, but
being unsure of things in an article or a book is very bad form.
***
Waymon writes:
>Also, how does one tell that it is ready to pick? I have cut two open
>and found that lupulin glands are small but pale yellow. I have also
>done the crush test (the hop stays flat). How does one tell beyond these
>two tests for ripeness?
Wait till the crush test results in a hop that springs back and doesn't
stay flat. Also, when the hops are ready they will be more papery to
the touch as opposed to leafy. All the hops will not be ready at the
same time, so ideally, you would like to pick each cone when it is
ripe. If it begins to brown a little at the edges it is getting "too
ripe." As long as it doesn't get more than just slightly brown at the
edges you should be okay.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb@elmer.fing.edu.uy>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 17:20:32 -0300 (UY)
Subject: Cider and mead
Dear Friends,
As I informed you, I am decided to start homebrewing soon. However, I
need to find a supplier first. I have been working on this and soon I
will order the neccessary ingredients to homebrew good beer. Besides, I
need to make the arrangements to import these ingredients (special malts,
yeast and hops). This will take some time though...
Meanwhile, I think I will homebrew mead and cider. I have the ingredients in
my country and it will be easier for me to start with these beverages
while I wait the ingredients for beer.
I need some recipes for mead and cider. I need to know exactly the amount
of water I will need to add to honey (for mead) and appple juice (for cider).
If I added some fruits to the wort, when should I do it and how much?
Please, mail me a couple of recipes and procedures.
Thanks
Jorge Blasig
------------------------------
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:34:05 -0500
Subject: Dumb
Dear NOKOMAREE,
...it is better to remain silent and be thought a fool,
than to speak and remove all doubt...
Ron
------------------------------
From: CHRISTOPHER DIIORIO <diiorio@acc.msmc.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:36:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Opinion of the dumb
All,
Do forgive this intrusion. I have yet to catch up reading past digest
2115, but must stop to offer my $.02. I would hope the gist of my
exposition also exists in other (2116, 2117, etc.) volumes, and apologize
if this issue has been over covered.
I am speaking of an individual called NOKOMAREE@aol.com. This person
seems to be the "be all end all" expert on many things. Opinions, and
simple solutions, flow from this address like beer from a tap. This is
all fine. We are each entitled to offer suggestions, even criticisms, in
an adult manner.
Only when we begin kindergarten name calling do we degrade ourselves and
our respectability. Calling each other, and the things we do/believe,
"dumb" is SO childish it belongs on a playground. Although I do not
encourage "flaming", and feel that (if it is done) it should be private, I
think our "flames" should at least reflect our nature as adults.
If we, as HBD readers, allow ourselves to be called "stupid" and "dumb"
then we just may fit in these shoes. Straightforward and "honest" or
not, there are MANY more INTELLIGENT ways to disagree and/or give a simple
answer. Some people ask a lot of "dumb" questions because they DON'T have
experience and want to know. Asking questions, of any type, is encouraged
in schools throughout the world. The HBD exists to offer
input/answers/discussions and (yes) ANALYSIS of these questions, no matter
how "dumb".
I would rather increase my knowledge through a "stupid" question than
decrease my intelligence through name calling and "straightforward answers
(as given my NOKOMAREE)".
Like the old saying goes:
There are no stupid questions
Only stupid people
Perhaps the latter offer only "simple" solutions and resort to childish
name calling.
Of course, this is just my opinion. Analyse it all you want. I'm not
perfect, although I may yet be called "stupid". If so, remember this...
"I'M RUBBER AND YOUR GLUE, WHATEVER YOU SAY BOUNCES OFF ME AND STICKS TO
YOU!"
Chris DiIorio
diiorio@acc.msmc.edu
------------------------------
From: John Varady <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 16:25:37 -0400
Subject: Re: NOKOMARKEE
Russell,
You're just encouraging him...
John Varady
------------------------------
From: homebrew@infomagic.com (Jeff Handley & Gene Almquist)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:11:05 -0700
Subject: Made in the Shade IV (Homebrew Competition)
Greetings to all:
On August 17, 1996 there will be an AHA sanctioned homebrew contest held
here in Flagstaff, AZ. If anyone would like to enter their prized homebrews
please E-Mail us directly: outpost@homebrewers.com and we will send via
e-mail(in a MS Word format) all the necessary information. Entries must be
sent between Aug
7th-Aug 14th. If you happen to be in Flagstaff or Arizona at that time you
may want to come to the festival. It's a real blast. Thanks, Jeff Handley
********************************************
* Jeff Handley***outpost@homebrewers.com *
* Homebrewers Outpost-Flagstaff, Arizona *
* http://www.homebrewers.com *
* *
* Homer: "Thanks for coming to my party. *
* Wow, you brought a whole beer keg!" *
* Barney: "Yeah. Where can I fill it up?" *
********************************************
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Todd Kirby <mkirby@bgsm.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 18:12:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Unmalted Wheat, Fruit Extracts
A quick note on where to find unmalted wheat. After visiting and calling
every homebrew shop both in town and in surrounding areas, I visited a
local bread shop that bakes specialty breads, etc. The manager thought it
was a kick that someone wanted to use the grain (raw red winter wheat) for
something other than bread, and was more than willing to sell me as much
or as little as I needed. Go show 'em what that grain was really made to
make! Also...
I'm sure everyone has seen the various jars of fruit flavorings in
homebrew shops. And yes, I'm sure they are vastly inferior to using the
real thing. But..Just how good (or bad) are they to use to make a stab at
a fruit flavored stout, porter or wheat? I've been searching the digests
to find some info, but not having much luck. I can't find anything in CM3
either. The jars I've seen hold 4oz, and are labelled as being used for
5 gallons. They smell pretty potent, and I'w wondering if that would be a
bit much for a 5 gallon batch. Could someone with some experience relay
some information on these?
Thanks,
Todd Kirby
------------------------------
From: John Varady <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 16:25:37 -0400
Subject: Re: NOKOMARKEE
Russell,
You're just encouraging him...
John Varady
------------------------------
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 18:24:51 -0400
Subject: Green Copper / Fermentation Temperature and Refrigerator Miscellania
Mark Bayer's lagering fridge has Green Thermostat Syndrome.
My guess is it's sulphur dioxide -- SO2. Produced by yeast, prodigiously by
certain strains. Not sure about a cure. Try cleaning it up with vinegar,
then perhaps you can paint it to protect it.
********************
Ed with the long last name asks about controlling fermentation temperature.
Ah, a topic so very close to my heart. I "solved" the problem with a device
I call a "Fermentation Chiller". You can find my Rev 1 plans on my web page.
{If you decide that this is the route you want to go, wait (a couple weeks)
for Rev 2 -- improved design imminent.} It's a thermostatically-controlled
icebox, but the ice will last 2 - 4 days between changes depending on your
ambient temperature. Works well in the 55F - 70F range even in an 85F+
garage.
I'm also presently working with an HVAC friend on building a custom fridge
for my kegs. Same idea as yours -- buy a compressor and duct-tape it to a
box of my own construction. My friend says the problem with this approach is
that the condensor & evaporator must be "sized" or otherwise matched properly
to the compressor; I presume that things like the internal volume of the
plumbing and backpressure and such come into play. Bottom line: you can do
it but it takes some serious tweaking. Best bet here is to find an old
fridge that you can cannibalize "all" those parts from and proceed that way.
Possible tip on locating fridge parts: I have a friend who is a store
manager of a well-known national department store (which shall remain
nameless). They get two or three fridges a month that they literally crush
and dump. These fridges are those that have had more than five service
calls. It's cheaper at that point for them to simply toss the damned thing
and replace it with a new one. They don't normally sell/give them away for
fear of someone trying to further scam the store with more service calls, but
I suppose if you talked nice or told them you just want the compressor and/or
other parts, they might bite. Problem is, it's usually the compressor that's
bad on these dudes.
Just a couple HBD's ago someone posted that they build refrigerated wine
cellars for rich folk. What they do is get one of those office fridges (the
little "cube" type) and carefully cut away the cabinet until all that's left
is the "guts". This is then adapted to fit the new cabinet. A circulating
fan blows air through the "freezer" section (the evaporator) into the new
cabinet. Great idea, especially if you can find some college kid dumping
his/hers at the end of the school year. Or just wait for your cubicle-mate
to be "downsized" and grab his as they escort him to the door with only the
shirt on his back.
Finally, there are the thermoelectric elements (Peltier junctions). These
are solid-state devices that "separate" heat from cold, so to speak, under
the influence of electrical energy. They are used in those "powered" ice
chests you've probably seen. Drawbacks is that they are relatively expensive
($20 - $30 or so) and require a hefty power supply (another $10 - $30
depending), plus one or (better) two small fans. Procewise this may still be
better than a conventional refrigerator, but rumor has it that you might need
to double-up on the elements to get adequate chilling, although for ale
fermentation one's probably good. Surplus houses are a good bet if you want
to experiment with these things; I know ALL Electronics (800) 826-5432
carries them ($20), though I don't know what cooling capacity their
particular ones have. By the way, ALL Electronics also has 200mV / 9-volt
powered DPM's for $10!! (for all your digital thermometer project needs...)
No disclaimer here -- they carry a lot of neat stuff (and some junk too),
their prices and terms are great, and I've always gotten fast service.
***************
Ken Schwartz
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://users.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
From: Dckdog@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 18:29:55 -0400
Subject: DME dingle balls and assorted trials....
Well, yesterday saw my first partial grain brewing. I nicked the recipe from
NCJHB the Palilallia IPA. A bit more work than my previous all malt extract
brews but not too bad. Jeezum, when I added the 7 lbs. of DME it created this
gargantuan turd like lumps that took forever to dissolve, is this normal?
Messing about with the grain was no big deal but the rolling pin almost
ripped the ziplock bag, I guess a mill makes this easier. I am a massive fan
of Yuengling black and tan, is anybody familiar with it, and if so any ideas
for a extract or partial grain clone? Thanks in advance for info and thanks
to all who have so patiently answered my rookie questions. HBD is great and
the humor makes my day. Keep the mood light.
Dean
Grand Island NY
Dckdog-that's labrador y'know (yellow puppy coming soon to join anvil headed
black.......)
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 17:53:42 CDT
Subject: mash temps/Special B
Richard writes:
>I'm brewing a yorkshire ale:
>6lbs pale
>2lbs crystal 60
>1lbs wheat malt
>fuggles & E. kent
>
>What do I gain by a multi-step infusion
>(120/140/155/168) over a single step ( 155/168)
>besides a extra couple of hours in front of the stove?
>all degrees F. Times at each are (30/45/90/10) or (90/10) ?
Firstly, 2 pounds of crystal malt is more than 20%. This is rather
excessive. I would recommend keeping the crystal malt at or below 10%
of the grist.
Regarding your question, the 120F rest breaks medium and large proteins
down to amino acids. This is fine and necessary if you are brewing
from undermodified malt (which is VERY rare these days) but will give
you very watery beer if you are using well-modified malt.
The 140F rest will do two things. If indeed there are some large
proteins, it will give protease a chance to cut up these big proteins
into medium-sized proteins which will give you less hot and cold break.
The other thing it will do is give beta-amylase a chance to cut up
a lot of your dextrins and give you a more-fermentable wort. For a
bitter recipe like this you would like to keep the dextin content
rather high, so this is a bad thing.
With well-modified malt (which I measure by how reasonable the hot and
cold break volumes are) you are much better off just going with a
155/168F schedule. You may even want to go with a 158/168F schedule
to give you even more dextrins and less fermentability, but 155/168F
is a good start.
***
Guy writes:
>Perhaps someone would give me an idea of what attributes
>Belgian Special B will contribute to my beer?
There are a number of Belgian maltsters making a malt called Special B
but I'm only familiar with DeWolf-Cosyns Special B, so these comments
are strictly regarding this malt. I feel it gives a raisiny aroma,
quite a bit of caramelly sweetness and a touch of roasty character.
1 pound is an awful lot to use with 7.5# of 2-row and 2# of rye. I
would keep it's use below 5% of the grist unless you want to learn
what character it adds in an experimental batch. Using 10% or more
of this grain will be VERY noticeable and chances are pretty good it
will be overdone for virtually any style.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: Dennis Cabell <cabell@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 19:24:16 -0400
Subject: Homemade grain mill with wood roller
I finally completed constructing my grain mill using a wood roller
and brewed my first batch. It is a one roller mill. I have
uploaded the plans to ftp.stanford.edu in directory
/pub/clubs/homebrew/submisions the file is woodmill.zip.
Note that it will probably be moved to the docs directory at some
time. The zip file contains the documentation in Word for Windows
6.0 format. For those of you without Word, Marty Tippin has kindly
agreed to convert the document to HTML format and give it a home on
his gadgets page. It will show up there sometime in the future,
thanks Marty.
Comments on my design are welcome.
- --
Dennis Cabell
Sterling Heights, MI
cabell@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: Dennis Cabell <cabell@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 19:25:13 -0400
Subject: Homemade grain mill with wood roller
I finally completed constructing my grain mill using a wood roller
and brewed my first batch. It is a one roller mill. I have
uploaded the plans to ftp.stanford.edu in directory
/pub/clubs/homebrew/submisions the file is woodmill.zip.
Note that it will probably be moved to the docs directory at some
time. The zip file contains the documentation in Word for Windows
6.0 format. For those of you without Word, Marty Tippin has kindly
agreed to convert the document to HTML format and give it a home on
his gadgets page. It will show up there sometime in the future,
thanks Marty.
Comments on my design are welcome.
- --
Dennis Cabell
Sterling Heights, MI
cabell@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: Jesse <souki@hawaii.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 13:40:22 -1000
Subject: Catalogues
Thanks to everyone who answered my question pertaining to mail order
supply catalogues. Here are some of the suggestions:
(All are (800) numbers, call for catalogues)
William's Brewing 759-6025
Alternative Brewing 365-brew
Liberty Malt 990-malt
High Lander 388-3923
South Bay Homebrew Supply 608-2739
Brewer's Resource 827-3983
The Brewer's Coop 451-6348
(\_/) _
/oo | I |
o_) / I | ________________________________
| _+__<__/__\_>____I | | JESSE K. SOUKI |
| _( + /___| souki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu |
|-|_ + \-----\ __-- |University of Hawaii Economics|
| (_+____\ \___/ --------------------------------
| \ \
\__\
------------------------------
From: Esbitter@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 19:45:16 -0400
Subject: pH Measurement, the Answers
I recently asked the collective about pH measurement since I was having
trouble with my meter. I basically asked what people found to be good ways to
check their pH when brewing. Also, the best way to store an electrode to get
more life from them.
Thanks again to all who responded. This is a great forum!
First, some recommended I read the instructions that came with the meter.
(They said store the electrode in storage solution XXXX or, if unavailable,
tap water) Next, most recommended storing in pH 4 solution. Most mentioned
buying a more expensive meter.
The second camp said that digital meters were not practical for homebrewing.
The Colorphast pH strips made by Merk were very good. 100 strips for $15. PH
meters are not reliable and hard to maintain over the long run.
I am inclined to agree with the second group. Though I am storing my new
electrode in pH 4 solution, my next purchase will probably be Colorphast
strips by Merk. Unfortunately, the catalog from which I purchased the meter
does not offer (or recommend) a storage solution. I like gadgets, but a GOOD
pH meter costs more than I paid.
Thought the collective deserved a recap...
- -Randy
============================================================
Homebrewers are like dogs teaching each other how to
chase cars. - Ann Reed
+-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-+
+ The Local Brewing Company +
+ ESBITTER@@AOL.COM +
+ Randy Reed +
+ South Shore Brew Club +
+ (Boston, MA Area - South) +
+-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-+
------------------------------
From: bobl@chesco.com (Bob Ledden)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 21:16:14 -0400
Subject: Mellinoidin w/o the hassle
Hi all,
George De Piro brings up a good subject in mellinoidin production. That is,
how do you produce mellinoidin to give your beer that bready/malty flavor
without the drudgery of decoction? Darryl Richmans' book "Bock"(excellent
book)covers this subject very well. In short he suggests using a malt high
in melliniodin ie Munich malt and dark crystal malt in your beer along with
3 hr boils to subtitute for decoction mashing. I have made a few Bocks using
75% Munich and 4% 90L crystal(along with other things) and 3 hour boils and
have been very satisfied with the results.
I have added Munich malt in small quantities to Porters,Browns,Alts,and even
Pils in smaller quantities but I would like to know if anyone has used
Munich as a base malt for something like a robust Porter or an American
Brown. I wonder if this is how Rogue makes their ales so big and malty?
Later,
Bob Ledden
Caln, Pa.
bobl@chesco.com
------------------------------
From: PIRIC <Piric@cris.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 21:21:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: just a little gas -- the bubbles in Guiness
Hi:
I am trying to get a reference for the behavior of the bubbles in
Guiness Stout. The nitrogen/carbon dioxide mix was the topic of a Zymurgy
article by Cliff Tannor in Summer of 1994. There is also clearly some
nontrivial fluid dynamics in the behavior of the bubbles (which appear to
go both up and down before settling) and also the behavior of larger
cell-like structures which appear exhibit some larger scale motion. (There
was also an article by Dick Zare in Physics Today on beer carbonation.) I
am sure I have seen another article on the dynamics of bubbles in Guiness,
but I can't remember where I saw it. Can anyone help me with this?
This may be a topic which has been covered recently, but I've been
out of touch for a while. Thanks in advance.
Dave Taylor
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2119
****************************
