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HOMEBREW Digest #2111
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/07/17 PDT
Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 17 July 1996 Number 2111
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Kwak, raw wheat (Jim Busch)
HDB size (rq@lysator.liu.se)
Re: Candi Sugar ((Tim Wauters))
Heart of the Hops ((George De Piro))
Ginger Beer ((Frank Ferguson x3584))
Guinness Ice Cream (Mark Garthwaite)
Beersicles and Old Fotheringslosh (Kurt Schilling)
Bad to mix idophor and bleach? ((Dan.Nelson))
"Large" Fermenters ((Aesoph, Michael))
fill levels & carbonation (BJFABB@ccmail.monsanto.com)
Party Pigs ("Gregory, Guy J.")
Kwak/open fermenters/maltose syrup/Wheeler's book (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
Pauwel Kwak (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
RE: Wit recipe ("Bridges, Scott")
Open Fermenter Coatings ("Decker, Robin E.")
Chest (coffin ) freezers (Michael K. Cinibulk)
pH meter probe storage ((David C. Harsh))
Traveling ("Jeffrey Walters USAET(UTC -04:00)")
more HOTH ("ted hull")
Made in the Shade IV (Homebrew Competition) ((Jeff Handley & Gene Almquist))
MORE Homebrew Software (RUSt1d?)
Old Frothingslosh ("Bridges, Scott")
Tap sneezes (Matt Koch)
Re: Gott cooler valves ((Laura Conrad))
pH Meter (ahl@swcp.com)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 10:04:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Kwak, raw wheat
Curt asks:
<I have become a big fan of Kwak (from Beglium). In Michael Jacksons book, a
<picture is shown of a dark brown beer in what looks like a quarter yard glass;
<the only Kwak that I have ever had is orange/copper in color...is there a Kwak
<dark that can only be obtained in Belgium?
Pauwel Kwak is a classic strong Belgian Ale of 8% ABV. It is produced
by the Bosteels brewery in Buggenhout. Bosteels also makes Prosit Pils
and t'Zelfde at 4.8 and 6.1% respectively.
(see Crombecqs excellent page: http://www.dma.be/p/bier/beer.htm )
In Belgium beer bars each beer is paired with a unique glass and probably
none is as distinctive as the foot glass and holder that Pauwel Kwak is served
in. I doubt that Jackson would pour a different beer in this glass but
more likely is that the lighting made the beer look darker than what you
see in person. The same thing happened with the Zymurgy photo of my
conference beer, Esprit de Boire. It looked much darker in the glass as
seen in the photo.
John writes:
<Unmalted wheat should be boiled for a couple of hours prior to mashing,
This is not necessary. Decoct if you wish, but multiple step infusions
will convert raw wheat just fine. Dilute the mash prior to lautering,
or dough in very loose, and lauter slowly.
Jim Busch
------------------------------
From: rq@lysator.liu.se
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 17:44:30 +0000
Subject: HDB size
Hi,
I've been following the thread about the HDB getting too large.
I really cannot see a problem with that. I think it's great that
the digest is growing, there is a lot more info here than there was
a couple of years ago. There are also many dicussions concentrating
on a very small part of the brewing science; not that many general
discussions.
You have to read the HDB like you read a newspaper. I suppose you
don't read everything in a newspaper, at least I don't. You are
selective, and read what you are interested in, do the same with
the HDB, and you will not be spending all day reading the HBD.
Also, there are down arrow/PGDOWN on my keyboard, how about yours????
I'm looking forward to the HDB getting even larger, which probably
means more info, if we can keep up the quality of the discussions.
Just my opinion.
Any opinins on the above. Post here or use private e-mail.
Erik Ronnqvist, Linkoeping University, Sweden
rq@lysator.liu.se y95eriro@cyd.liu.se y95eriro@isy.liu.se
------------------------------
From: tfwmsi@mcs.com (Tim Wauters)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 09:42 CDT
Subject: Re: Candi Sugar
FWIW I've recently noticed a candi-like crystalized rock sugar in both
Indian and Thai markets here in Chicago. The Indian variety is very light
and looks just like Belgian candi sugars that I've seen in home brew
stores. The Thai variety is a yellow crystal rock sugar and is possibly
made from palm sugar. Has anyone out there had a chance to use these, or
possibly know if they could be substituted for the Belgian varieties?
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 10:59:17 -0700
Subject: Heart of the Hops
A few issues ago somebody posted that they E-mailed Miller's
brewmaster. Could you please post the address again?
Instead of wasting bandwith here, I suggest that we all write Miller
directly to tell them what we think...
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: fpf@gasco.com (Frank Ferguson x3584)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 08:05 PDT
Subject: Ginger Beer
Does anyone have a nice recipe for ginger
beer? Any assistance much apprecieated.
francis ferguson
fpf@gasco.com
------------------------------
From: Mark Garthwaite <mgarth@primate.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 10:39:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Guinness Ice Cream
Did someone say Guinness Ice Cream?? Anyone know who makes it?
Also, if someone could forward me the Nestles Tollhouse Porter recipe I'd
be very grateful. Sounds delicious! While I'm on the subject of beer
and food, any suggestions for books on cooking with beer? Thanks for
your time.
Cheers!
Mark Garthwaite
(mgarth@primate.wisc.edu)
------------------------------
From: Kurt Schilling <kurt@pop.iquest.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 10:51 EST
Subject: Beersicles and Old Fotheringslosh
Howdy beerlings:
Just a couple of quick notes. In the May/June edition of Chile Pepper
Magazine, I found the following:
"The Latest food fad from Germany is frozen beer on a stick! Bernd Helbig of
Halle is selling beersicles for about $3.50 each.." Makes me wonder just
what the heck is going on in Deutschland these days.
Re: Old Fotheringshlosh was a regional beer brewed by Iron City in
Pittsburgh. It featured outrageous art on the can and the motto: The Stale
Pale Ale with the Foam on the Bottom". Can collectors love the cans and
flats. BTW: I'm told that the beer was OK too.
Kurt Schilling
------------------------------
From: nelson@muck.isgs.uiuc.edu (Dan.Nelson)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 10:52:21 -0500
Subject: Bad to mix idophor and bleach?
I recently posted the question (abstracted version).... Is it dangerous
(i.e. possibly unhealthy) to mix minute quantities of idophor and bleach
solutions? The only response was...
>From rcpj@panix.com
>
>Nothing to worry about; it will not release chlorine or anything nasty
>like that.>>
>If there is a lot of bleach, it will oxidize iodide to iodine, and
>possibly iodine to iodate, that's all.
>
>Pierre
Thanks, Pierre. I'll just relax....
Dan
------------------------------
From: aesoph@ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael)
Date: 17 Jul 96 12:24:58 EDT
Subject: "Large" Fermenters
Dear Collective:
Doe sanyone out there know where one can locate large, food grade,
plastic containers that could be used as a fermenter? By large I mean
10-20 gallons or so.. 5 gallons at a time just doesn't cut it anymore -
especially for wine, which ties up a fermenter for 6 weeks or so.
==================================================
Michael D. Aesoph Associate Engineer
==================================================
------------------------------
From: BJFABB@ccmail.monsanto.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 11:38:17 -0500
Subject: fill levels & carbonation
Al wrote in hbd#2109:
"I've done some experiments with fill level that seem to indicate that a
high fill level (like 0 to 15ml of headspace) appears to inhibit carbonation.
It not only goes slower, but the final carbonation level may be significantly
lower too!"
I've also done some experiments with fill level in 12 oz. bottles, with fills
ranging from ca. 6oz (1/2 full bottle) to almost all the way to the top of the
bottle. Beer (pale ale) was batch-primed with 4.5oz (by weight) glucose in 5
gal. All bottles were blanketed with CO2 before capping. Slightly lower
carbonation was observed in the 1/2 full bottles. No significant difference was
observed (via mouthfeel) in any of the more 'normal' fill levels (1.5 inch to
nearly zero head space), either in carbonation time, or amount. More 'hiss' is
heard when uncapping bottles with increasing head space for obvious reasons.
Bottom line for me; I now leave almost no head space (easy to do with a
PhillsPhiller; no relationship, bla bla bla) with the idea of reducing
oxidation
potential. This has worked well for me for the last 25 batches or so.
Cheers,
Brad.
------------------------------
From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461@eroerm1.ecy.wa.gov>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 09:24:00 PDT
Subject: Party Pigs
Carl Hattenburg asked about Party Pigs.
With due respect, you're better off going to Corny's. As an owner of pigs,
my experience is thus: 1. Pigs are a pain to seal. The valve and screwclamp
assembly is not for the mechanically disadvantaged. It must be sanitary, it
must be centered, the screwheads must be ungoobered, and the gasket (!) must
be seated correctly, all with 2.5 gal or so of beer in your lap. 2. Pigs
are a pain to clean. Hot water of dishwasher temp turns them into
provacative plastic sculpture. Otherwise, it's elbow grease, and long
handled brushing. 3. Pigs are pricey. Initial cost is good, but the 4 buck
per batch cost for the bag here locally (and in most catalogs I've seen)
puts O&M costs outa site. It'll take about 5 batches, but capitalizing the
pigs, the bags, and a new set of screws (a power screwdriver is real handy)
evens out to a used corny keg setup.
Pigs are convenient. They do fit well in the fridge. They do dispense
well. They transport easily, and they are always something to talk about at
the party. I went to cornys, and haven't looked back.
Cheers.
Guy Gregory
GuyG4@aol.com
Lightning Creek Home Brewing...
and used brewquipment emporium.
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 11:27:58 CDT
Subject: Kwak/open fermenters/maltose syrup/Wheeler's book
Curt writes:
>I have become a big fan of Kwak (from Beglium). In Michael Jacksons book, a
>picture is shown of a dark brown beer in what looks like a quarter yard glass;
>the only Kwak that I have ever had is orange/copper in color...is there a Kwak
>dark that can only be obtained in Belgium?
The only Kwak I've seen or tasted is the orange/copper/medium amber that you
refer to. Indeed, in Jackson's New World Guide to Beer, it is pictured as
a brown beer. His Beer Companion doesn't even mention it, but in Jackson's
The Great Beers of Belgium, there are two pictures. The one inside the back
cover is brown, but the one on page 223 is medium amber coloured. In the text,
Jackson calls the colour "garnet" which would be reddish amber. It could be
that from the shape of the glass, the colour of the beer is strongly influenced
by the background or even the colour of the stand in which the beer glass must
rest. All of my beer books have but one type of Kwak Pauel listed.
***
Father Barleywine writes:
>I'm interested in open fermentation, having pushed the envelope of dirty
>brewing to its limit within the closed fermenter realm. I'm also
>considering a small microbrewery (and I mean _small_), and since funds are
>rather tight...<snip>
>
>Has anyone visited the breweries in England, Belgium, and Eastern Europe
>which perform open fermentations?
First of all, welcome back. Your idea of glazed concrete fermenters is
already in use... at Whitbread, if I'm not mistaken. I've visited many
breweries in the UK and on the continent that use open fermenters, but
virtually all these beers (almost all the ones I can think of) have at least
one of following things in common: high serving rate, pasteurization and/or
they are Lambics.
The breweries that immediately come to mind are:
Rodenbach (only the secondaries are open and the bottled beer is pasteurized),
Ram (Young's - cask beers served quickly, bottled beers pasteurized),
Tadcaster (Samuel Smith's - same as Ram),
all the traditional Lambic/Lambiek breweries (well, they are sour beers),
Traquair House (same as Ram),
Caledonian (same as Ram), and
Shepherd Neame (same as Ram).
Hmmm... Zum Uerige uses open primaries and then lagers their Altbier in
closed tanks, but it is served very quickly once ready, so this is a slight
variation.
Another variant is the Paulaner Hausbraueri (brewpub) in Munich which used
open primaries and lagers in closed tanks, but in typical Bavarian fashion
they seal their open fermenters in a glass case. Oddly, their beers are
unfiltered and murkier than Witbier (very un-Bavarian)!
One brewery that does not pasteurize their bottled beers but uses open
fermenters (actually, they cover the tops with plastic sheets) is Bell's
in Kalamazoo, Michigan. I have not had any of their average-strength beers
in quite some time, so they may have cleaned up their act, but they used
to be invariably infected and would gush after a few weeks, even refrigerated.
Despite this, I love their beers, especially the stronger ones like the
Expedition Stout and Third Coast Old Ale.
Godspeed on your new venture and please don't forget us here in the middle
of the country when you begin wider distribution!
***
spiralc writes:
>Actually, you want something higher than 75% fermentable. Wheeler states
>that the syrups he refers to "contain about 20% non-fermenable sugars."
Wheeler also says "In the recipes the terms 'maltose syrup' and 'glucose syrup'
refer to maize [corn] derived syrups. For home brewing purposes it matters
not whether high maltose or high glucose syrup is used, the end result is
about the same."
While it may be true that in the UK "maltose syrup" is only 20% unfermentable,
in the US "high-maltose corn syrup" is typically 25% unfermentable as I posted
earlier. I contend that besides the difference in fermentability, if you are
using a significant amount of these syrups there would be an important
difference: too much glucose syrup (more than say 20%) could possibily lead
to a stuck fermentation (depending on the yeast strain).
sprialc continues:
>Wheeler explains that these are instances where his brewing software
>indicated that the end ABV could not be achieved from the stated OG if
>only the listed grains were used.
If Wheeler's use of small amounts (like the 4% in the Old Thumper recipe) is
indeed to increase apparent attenuation, I contend that it is not necessary.
The apparent attenuation in the Old Thumper is 76% which could very well
be reached without the use of maltose syrup. While he discusses different
sources of yeast and even covers recovering yeast from bottle-conditioned
beers, I disagree most strongly with his contention that "The best type
of beer to brew for [yeast] propogation purposes is a strong, dark, all malt,
hoppy brew of OG 1065 or greater; the higher the better." High alcohol
beers are known to stress yeasts and it is for this reason that Sierra
Nevada repitches yeast from all their beers except the Celebration Ale and
Bigfoot Barleywine.
If this is the kind of wort he uses for propogating yeast, this may be one
reason why he has difficulty getting 76% apparent attenuation without the
use of maltose or glucose syrup. More than likely, he uses only a few
strains of yeast for all his brewing and it just so happens that they are
all relatively unattenuative yeasts. Then again, on page 137, he gives a
recipe for Woodforde's Phoenix XXX, which has an OG of 1047, no sugar
syrups and an FG of 1011 which is an apparent attenuation of 77%!
Despite quite a few errors, I think this is a very interesting book for
anyone who already brews (everything from all-extract to all-grain is
covered in only 43 pages!). The biggest problem I have with the book is
that only *after* 100+ pages of recipes is there a "Explanatory Key to
Recipes" in which he explains that the recipes assume only a mash
efficiency of 75%. Furthermore, his hop utilization is extremely low,
so I recommend that, before you use his recipes, you recalculate the
grain and hop weights based upon your efficiency and utilization.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 11:36:04 CDT
Subject: Pauwel Kwak
No doubt this post will precede my other post, but I wanted to correct
a spelling error on my part. The name of the beer is "Pauwel Kwak" also
known as "Kwak Pauwel." It is brewed by the Bosteels brewery on Kerkstraat
in Buggenhout. In addition to Pauwel Kwak, the also brew Prosit pils and
't Zelfde (a Special).
Al.
------------------------------
From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess@mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 12:39:00 PDT
Subject: RE: Wit recipe
>John Varady writes:
>>2) Has anybody used both flaked wheat and regular unmalted wheat?
>> Is there much difference? I've heard unmalted wheat is a royal
>> PITA to work with, but I want to keep this authentic since it
>> is going into a competition. Should I stick with the flaked
>> wheat or use milled unmalted?
>
>Flaked wheat is pre-gelatinized so you will not have to boil it.
>
>Unmalted wheat should be boiled for a couple of hours prior to mashing,
>and it will take all your strength to mill it!
Is this correct? Does anyone else pre-gelatinize unmalted wheat for a Wit?
I've read that unmalted grain adjuncts need to be pre-gelatinized before
mashing for other styles. However, I've made a number of Wits and I've
never seen gelatinizing as a requirement in any Wit recipe. I've just
mashed the unmalted wheat starting with a protein rest, but just crushed not
gelatinized. My yield hasn't apparently been hurt as a result. I ended up
with the characteristic cloudiness, of course.
You are on target about the milling. Good time to invite your
brother-in-law over :)
FWIW, I just made a light ale with 2 lbs of rice (pre-gelatinized by boiling
for a solid hour, of course) that I call "Reinheitsgebot be damned". It's
for the spousal unit, but it's actually a pretty effective lawnmower beer.
Scott
------------------------------
From: "Decker, Robin E." <robind@rmtgvl.rmtinc.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 12:54:00 -0500
Subject: Open Fermenter Coatings
Father Barleywine writes:
>I strongly suspect that raw concrete would be a poor surface for
fermentation, carrying the high risk of culturing contaminants in crevices
and leaching various non-food-grade substances into the acidic beer.
Right you are! Concrete is made up of portland cement (composed of lime,
kiln dust or fly ash, marine shells, sand, iron ore, etc), aggregate and
water. Curing concrete is a chemical process, called hydration, by which
the water and lime combine, producing a lot of heat, and leaving behind a
solid. This is not the result of "drying" of the wet mix. About 2-1/2
gallons of potable water are required to hydrate one bag of cement, but this
produces a very stiff mix which is difficult to work with. You can safely
increase the water upto a max. of 6 gal/sack, but be aware that the extra
water will reduce the tensile strength, and increase the permeability of
your concrete. The residual pH will be rather high also, so you'll
definitely want a coating.
For coatings, there are various epoxy compounds, and you may be able to find
something food-grade, but I'm not sure....I know who to ask if you'd like
more info. Plan on at least $3 per square foot for a 2 coat system. Your
application will be smaller than a professional installer will want to fool
with though, so the $3 will probably cover you for materials (I usually get
it installed for that price).
Barring that, there is a new surfacing material in the swimming pool
industry. It's a flowable plastic that sets up as an impermeable coating.
It is usually applied 1/4" thick, and has small fiberglass reinforcing
threads in it, that give it a bit of texture (slip resistant). I'd check
this one out, as they guarantee the product for 20-30 years, claiming that
algae will never grow on it (no place for the buggers to grab on), and it
requires zero maintenance. They also claim that chemical usage will be
drastically reduced because the coating leaches nothing into the water
(unlike traditional plaster coatings), so I would guess that this could
possibly be safe for food contact, as well as durable enough to cope with
the chemical reactions of fermenting wort. One drawback, for pools, you
must always keep it filled (weighted) with water to prevent the surface from
popping up. It doesn't actually bond to the concrete base, and is only
attached at the edges. Might not be a problem for a smallish open
fermenter.
Once you settle on a coating, the next most important thing to figure out
will be your formwork design. This is different from the "design" of your
structure, and deals with building forms that can handle the liquid
properties of your concrete, until it becomes the solid you have envisioned.
I have a couple of excellent references on hand, when you get to that
point.
If it were me though, I'd be on the lookout for auctions of restaurant/food
industry equipment or places going out of business. Virtually everything is
stainless, and you can find tanks, tubs, containers of various sizes for
relatively little cost. Also, dairy farm equipment can be converted...just
ask the boys at the Marthasville brewery in GA!!
Hope this helps...let me know if you'd like more details.
Goldings
Construction Manager & former DHEC "Certified Pool Operator"
"I have to get off this planet!"
------------------------------
From: Michael K. Cinibulk <cinibumk@ml.wpafb.af.mil>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 12:53:07 -0400
Subject: Chest (coffin ) freezers
Many have stated their preference for freezers over refrigerators. My
question is: how do you load a 5 gal carboy into a chest freezer?
Mike Cinibulk
Bellbrook, OH cinibumk@ml.wpafb.af.mil
------------------------------
From: dharsh@alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 14:24:59 -0400
Subject: pH meter probe storage
Esbitter@aol.com (Randy Reed)asks:
>I only got about 6 months out of the electrode before
>it went bad (technical term). I stored it in tap water (upright in a grolsch
>bottle)......a better way to store a pH meter?
pH probes should definitely last longer than 6 months. You can purchase
"storage solution" for probes, but that is a little pricey. I use a pH 4
buffer saturated with potassium chloride.
You may be able to recondition the probe by soaking it in a series of
strong acid solutions for short periods of time - check the literature that
came with the probe for details! The likely problem is precipitates from
your tap water clogging the holes in the glass membrane of the probe.
These can be easily removed.
Dave
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
& Dave Harsh &
& DNRC Minister of Bloatarianism O- &
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
------------------------------
From: "Jeffrey Walters USAET(UTC -04:00)" <usfmc42k@ibmmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 13:40:39 EDT
Subject: Traveling
I am taking a two week vacation in late August. My wife and I will leave
Detroit, drive to Pittsburgh, PA. We will stay there one night. Then we will
drive to Johnstown, PA for one night. We will also stay near Gettysburg, PA
for one night. Then we will head for Mystic, Connecticutt to stay for about
a week. On our way back, we will make our way through Massachusetts, Vermont,
New Hampshire, Quebec City, Canada, Montreal, and Ottawa then back to Detroit.
I would appreciate any tips on beer/brewing places and sites to see along the
way. Oh, by the way, you can bet we will stop at the Ben & Jerry's company
and see if they have any beer sorbet. I'll also keep an eye out for a
Guinness shake(any clues?).
Regards,
Jeffrey Walters, JWALTER8
Ford Comm. Truck; PHN131 Build/Launch Team
Phone: 39-02998; Fairlane Program Center Bldg. B, Cube 1056
------------------------------
From: "ted hull" <Ted=Hull%GEN%Atlanta@brwncald.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 9:10:59 EDT
Subject: more HOTH
i keep reading posts about the evil miller e-mail and i wonder
this: is hop extract really cost effective for a megabrewery?
i doubt it and think that miller probably is using the same hop
pellets that many other micros and megas use these days. the
'heart' is the hop after separation from the outer portion of
the cone. in other words, i'd call the spiel 100% bull b/c
besides hiding behind proprietorship they don't have any real
claim to a significant difference from the competition. besides,
in the dog eat wolf world of mass brewing, who's going to tell
you how much hops they add so that you can claim to use 4 times
as much?
ted
------------------------------
From: homebrew@infomagic.com (Jeff Handley & Gene Almquist)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 12:16:55 -0700
Subject: Made in the Shade IV (Homebrew Competition)
Greetings to all:
On August 17, 1996 there will be an AHA sanctioned homebrew contest held
here in Flagstaff, AZ. If anyone would like to enter their prized homebrews
please E-Mail us directly: outpost@homebrewers.com and we will send via
e-mail(in a MS Word format) all the necessary information. Entries must be
sent between Aug
7th-Aug 14th. If you happen to be in Flagstaff or Arizona at that time you
may want to come to the festival. It's a real blast. Thanks, Jeff Handley
********************************************
* Jeff Handley***outpost@homebrewers.com *
* Homebrewers Outpost-Flagstaff, Arizona *
* http://www.homebrewers.com *
* *
* Homer: "Thanks for coming to my party. *
* Wow, you brought a whole beer keg!" *
* Barney: "Yeah. Where can I fill it up?" *
********************************************
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@swamp.li.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 15:49:04 -0400
Subject: MORE Homebrew Software
Nick Asks:
>Also, the recipe calls for six pounds of light malt extract, and one pound
>of dry malt extract. Given a 70% extraction average, how much 2-row would
>I need to substitute to pull this off?
According to HBRCP, you should use 10.5 lbs of 2-row for 5 gallons of 1.053
wort at 70%.
Try my Homebrew Recipe Calculator Program (HBRCP11) for an easy to use full
screen homebrew log. It has been on the web for awhile but unfortunately
it could not be downloaded proper...(stupid timeout). It has all the nice
tables you've come to expect: Grains, hops, misc ingredients, yeast strains,
styles, misc notes, and hop utilization. It also has converters for weight,
volume, and temperature as well as calculators for IBU's, Priming sugar by
weight (based on Dave Drapers experiments), and Mash Temp changes for
infusion and decoction for volumes. It prints blank brew logs (for those
who don't mash by thier computers), recipe books, simple labels (12 to
a page) and a clipboard paste routine. Special features are the ability to
copy, scale, and convert between metric and U.S. units.
web: http://www.netaxs.com/people/vectorsys/index.html
Ftp: ftp.netaxs.com (in directory /people/vectorsys)
You will need the files hbrcp11.zip and foxw250b.zip to run.
********
This is the Blueberry ale I plan on doing this weekend.
I am assuming that blueberry juice has a gravity of about 1.009 pts/gal.
Can anyone shed some light on this? Perhaps I need to do some experiments
and report back. How much blueberry juice would be needed to prime?
Name: Pale Fulla Blueberries O.G.: 1.041
Style: Fruit I.B.U.: 28.3
Volume: 12.0 gallons A.B.V.: 3.9%
Grains/Fermentables Lbs Hops AAU Oz Min
Pale, American 2 Row 12.00 Chinook 11.8 1.00 90
Wheat, Belgian Malt 2.50 Cascade 5.0 1.00 30
Rye, Malt 1.00 Cascade 5.0 1.00 0
Blueberries 10.00
Miscellaneous Ingredients
Yeast: American Ale Wyeast 1056 Irish Moss
Prime: Corn Sugar (blueberry juice?) Gypsum
Mash @ 156F for 1.5 Hours, Sparge to 14 gallons, Boil Down to 12 gallons,
Open Ferment 5 days, secondary ferment 5 days, add blueberries (juice only)
and ferment for 5 days.
**************************
** rust1d@li.com **
** John Nicholas Varady ** <-- Now Engaged.
** Eve Courtney Hoyt **
**************************
http://www.netaxs.com/people/vectorsys/index.html
------------------------------
From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess@mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 16:29:00 PDT
Subject: Old Frothingslosh
From: "Thompson, Brian" <bthompson@mfi.com>
>My father tells me of a holiday beer he remembers from his childhood in
>Cleveland... Old Frothingslosh was the name. The motto on the label:
"Brewed
>from the heart of the hippity hops." I have no idea which brewery produced
it,
>but perhaps someone should tell Miller that it was a joke in the 1930s and
>it's still a joke today.
I also recall this beer from my childhood in the Pittsburgh area in the
60's. I believe that it was brewed by Pittsburgh Brewing Company, home of
Iron City and Sam Adams. As I recall, it was a seasonal beer, but I don't
remember any more about it. I have no idea if it's still being brewed.
Scott
------------------------------
From: Matt Koch <matt_k@stssystems.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 16:57:43 -0400
Subject: Tap sneezes
Greetings everyone!
I have kegged my beer for about two years now and have figured most
things out. There is one problem I can't lick though.
If the tap sits around for a little while after dispensing, some of the
CO2 comes out of solution in the beer out line. When I draw the next
glass, I get a little beer, a sneeze of CO2 and more beer. The problem
is that the sneeze produces quite a bit of foam. My father in law's
system does not seem to suffer from the same problem.
My beer out line is about 4 feet long, if that makes any difference.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank's
Matt
in Montreal
------------------------------
From: lconrad@Paragon.COM (Laura Conrad)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 17:34:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Gott cooler valves
Luke writes:
I'm currently building a 3-tier system using a 10-gallon Gott cooler as my top
level hot liquor tank. I removed the plastic valve assembly and punched out
the button/spindle that's normally used to control water flow. I reattached
the valve assembly to the cooler and attached a hose and hose clamp to the
plastic spigot. What I can't seem to figure out is how to plug the hole left
by the button/spindle.
Has anyone gone through this drill?
I'm sure there are higher-tech ways to do it, but what I did was get a
drilled rubber stopper of the right size, hacksaw a piece of an old
racking cane to go through the stopper, and use tubing to connect the
racking cane to a phalse bottom and a stopcock.
I think the right size rubber stopper is the same one you use for a
regular beer bottle, so you may already have one.
Laura Conrad
Email: lconrad@world.std.com Work Email lconrad@paragon.com
Phone: (617) 661-8097 Work Phone 617 937-9800 X 293
Snail Mail: 233 Broadway, Cambridge, MA 02139
Fax 617 937-9877
------------------------------
From: ahl@swcp.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 15:52:05 -0600
Subject: pH Meter
>Can anyone recommend a better way to store a pH meter so that I get more than
>6 months from the new electrode? Is 6 months only what I should expect? Do
>any of you have better solutions to taking pH readings for brewing? (better
>brands, better papers, better ways to care for the electrode...)
We used to sell Hanna pH meters, but they had a high failure rate.
Try an Oakton or a ProPen pH Meter (try a hydroponic store). You can buy
an electrode storage solution (typically $12 for a pint) and there are also
electrode cleaning solutions. This will help extend the life of your Pen.
--Sunny
AHL ALBUQUERQUE HYDROPONICS AND LIGHTING
1001 SAN MATEO SE
ALBUQUERUQE, NM 87108
1-800-753-4617
http://www.swcp.com/~ahl/ahl.html
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2111
****************************
