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HOMEBREW Digest #2104
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/07/12 PDT
Homebrew Digest Friday, 12 July 1996 Number 2104
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Re: Canning wort for start ("Jim Hodge" <Jim_Hodge@ilsc.com>)
Costa Mesa, CA mash improvements (stafford@newport26.hac.com (Jack Stafford))
Wet T-shirts (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
Bleach/Iodophor/Heart of Hops (Bill Rust <wrust@csc.com>)
Cornelius Kegs and Hops Insect Contro (Art McGregor <mcgregap@acq.osd.mil>)
RE: Soapy beer (George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro))
Lagers at 65F, HBD organization ("Bernard D Hummel" <hummelbe@pilot.msu.edu>)
Tapioca (Craig Amundsen <amundsen@biosci.cbs.umn.edu>)
Cleaning Grolsch Bottles (Kurt Schilling <kurt@pop.iquest.net>)
Re: plastic carboys (Cory Wright <cwright@midcom.anza.com>)
Carboy insulation,Sulfurous acid ("David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>)
Carboy Cozey ("Richard Scotty" <rscotty@uswest.com>)
Enzyme Kinetics (korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com)
re: Baby steps... ("Gregg A. Howard" <102012.3350@CompuServe.COM>)
Re: too much HBD (Eugene Sonn <eugene@dreamscape.com>)
Canning wort (Delano Dugarm <adugarm@worldbank.org>)
Atlanta or Minneapolis Brewpubs ("Stanley A. White/620664/PPI/EKC")
Summer Brewing-National Homebrew Day/AOB=too many HBD's/Our Buddy AL (ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT <skotrat@wwa.com>)
RE: Hopefully ("CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865" <CHUDSON@mozart.unm.edu>)
Where to get beer in New Brunswick or PEI (CA) (Bob McCowan <bob.mccowan@bmd.cpii.com>)
Charleston brewing (h.smith@e-mail.com)
Young yeast/old yeast; humor; amylase, spamylase ("Pat Babcock" <pbabcock@ford.com>)
Lambic Article (Bill Rust <wrust@csc.com>)
Lager Temperature (BRIAN F. THUMM <THUMMBF@GWSMTP.NU.COM>)
Too much HBD? ("Allan Rubinoff" <allan_rubinoff@mathworks.com>)
Beer is space.... ("Pat Babcock" <pbabcock@ford.com>)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Hodge" <Jim_Hodge@ilsc.com>
Date: 11 Jul 1996 10:38:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Canning wort for start
Re: Canning wort for starters
In reply to Paul Kensler's question about canning wort and preventing botulism:
The traditional home food preservation solution to this is to use a pressure
cooker. The elevated temperatures and pressures they allow you to achieve are
sufficient to kill any and all nasty bugs that might be around. You can pick
one up relatively inexpensively at most kitchen stores. A pressure cooker can
be a dangerous piece of kitchenware in the wrong hands and my experience with
them is limited to watching my mother can vegetables 35 years ago, so I won't
even try to give advice as to their use. Read the directions or find a book on
food canniing at you local library.
Jim Hodge
jim_hodge@ilsc.com
===============================================
...and what is good, Phaedrus,
and what is not good?
Need we have anyone tell us these things?
===============================================
------------------------------
From: stafford@newport26.hac.com (Jack Stafford)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 09:55:12 PDT
Subject: Costa Mesa, CA mash improvements
On Wed, 10 Jul 1996, mhiguchi@ix.netcom.com (Michael Higuchi) wrote:
>You didn't say how many gallons of wort you collected, but
>assuming 5.5 gallons, Brewbe gives your extraction rate as 80% -
>(28 pts/lb/gal) - pretty good!
It is a 5 gallon batch. It'll go into a keg this weekend so I
will know what the FG is. Lower mash temp should yield a lower
FG (if I've been paying attention to all that discussion).
>I notice from your sig that you're from Costa Mesa - so am I. If
>you get your grain from the same place I do, then one thing that
>may account for the increase is that High Times Too has recently
>changed their crush - going from a Corona to a MaltMill(TM)
>sometime in the last month or so. When they did, my extraction
>efficiency immediately went from the low to mid 60s to the mid
>80s. Of course, if you get your grain somewhere else.... ; )
I bought the grain at Hi-Time Too. That is a contributing factor
that I was not aware of. That was another thread from last month.
On another note:
While I'm adjusting the mash and sparge pH, watching my temps
aereating, pitching rate and keeping accurate records, etc my
homebrewing neighbor uses a different approach. Doing none of
the above he simply makes up (or tries) for all that by nearly
doubling his grain bill.
When I suggest some of these tips to brew more efficiently and
make better beer he just says, "... why go to all that trouble?
I'm just making beer." Whatever.
I read the HBD and try to apply it to my own home brewery. There's
still alot to learn, but what little I know has paid off. Thanks.
I'm going on vacation next week so I'll unsubscribe 'till August.
Take care,
Jack
Costa Mesa, CA
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 12:15:21 CDT
Subject: Wet T-shirts
John writes:
>I've heard that a wet towel
>or T-shirt around the fermenter in a bucket of shallow water will drop the
>temperature about 10F.
The drop in temperature depends a lot on your humidity. If it is humid
where the setup is, the drop in temperature could be a lot less than 10F.
Another thing to consider is that fermentation is exothermic (it creates
heat) and high-OG beers generate more heat (10F or more) than low-OG beers,
so don't forget to compensate for the generated heat too.
I've read where "blue ice" packs changed twice a day have worked for
some brewers. If evaporative cooling is not enough, perhaps one or several
of these would help. I have a chect freezer with a Hunter on it, but for
general use I bought 10 of these packs (about 16 fl.oz. each) at a local
big grocery store for $.99 each.
You would need more cooling during the violent part of the fermentation
(because that's when more heat is generated) and quite a bit less when
fermentation begins to die down.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: Bill Rust <wrust@csc.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 13:21 EDT
Subject: Bleach/Iodophor/Heart of Hops
Greetings Brewmeisters!
Well I got some great resposes to my query about Iodophor. Thanks George De
Piro and Steve Potter. Steve referred me to a back issue of Zymurgy (Fall
1995, vol.18, no.3 - _Dirty Deeds: Cleaning & Sanitizing Details_) which
cleared up several questions for me (it also had a cool chart).
The article in summary: If you use bleach in the concentration .5
oz./gallon for sanitizing (assuming that your bleach is 5.25% of sodium
hypochlorite, this will give you 200ppm of available chlorine). You can
sanitize any surface in 10 minutes. For cleaning, use .5 - 2 oz./gallon;
limit use with plastic to 1 hour. Drawback: Bleach solutions can corrode
brewing metals, so limit exposure time. According to the article, you can
drip dry or rinse at this strength. Chlorine's usefulness degrades with
time, so make only as much as you plan to use.
Iodophor is a sanitizer only. 1 tablespoon/5 gallons will give you 12.5ppm
which will sanitize any surface in 10 minutes. According to the article you
can drip dry or rinse at this strength. Iodophor's usefulness also degrades
with time, although if kept in a tighly sealed container this can be
extended to a week (i.e. Corny keg...) As for drawbacks: None really,
except for added expense (compared to bleach), and the fact that iodophor
can stain while undiluted.
>From that letter from Dave Ryder:
>As a homebrewer and hop gardener, I'm sure you're aware that hops are the
>spice of beer that add their own special taste and aroma. Our proprietary
>brewing expertise enables us to remove the bitter quality from hops while
>maintaining their complex flavor attributes. After doing this, we have,
>what we call, the "heart of the hop."
Sure sounds like a definition of hop extract wrapped up in a bunch of
marketing schpeel to me!
One more thing: Gee, doesn't all the griping about the volume of posts
contribute to the problem? (my $0.02)
Thanks for all the great info guys and keep up the good work.
-------------------------------------------------------
Bill Rust, Master Brewer |
Jack Pine Savage Brewery | Im Himmel gibt's kein Bier,
Established 1985 (NACE) | Drum trinken wir es hier!
-------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Art McGregor <mcgregap@acq.osd.mil>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 13:42:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Cornelius Kegs and Hops Insect Contro
Howdy All!
Kegs: My wife just bought me 2 corny kegs (coke - pinlock versions) for my
birthday, so now I have a total of four 5 gal pinlock kegs :^) When I looked
carefully, I noticed that one was about 1.5 inches taller than the other
three. I have enough clearance in the fridge for the three similar kegs, but
the taller one is going to be a little close. Aren't all pinlock (aka coke)
kegs the same size? All have similar markings from the manufacturers.
<<>> <<>> <<>> <<>>
Hops Insects: This is my third year growing hops, and I thought I should pass
on some info on bug control. I live in Northern Virginia, near DC, and we
have lots of Japanese Beatles, and they _LOVE_ hops. Last year I sprayed the
hops with Liquid Sevin, and It helped to keep the beatles off, but caused an
even bigger problem -- SPIDER MITES. After searching the web I found the
following at the Department of Entomology, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and
State University under the "Spider Mites Factsheet PUBLICATION 444-221 1991:
> Most insecticides are not effective on mites and some, especially carbaryl
> (Sevin), result in increased mite damage by killing their natural enemies.
^^^^^^^
> Use a miticide as suggested in Virginia Pest Management Guides, available
> through your local Extension Agent. Always read the label before applying
> any pesticide.
Additional searchers on hops found this at the University of Florida (IFAS)
Cooperative Extension Service:
> Oct 1993 INSECT CONTROL IN MINOR VEGETABLE CROPS MINO-023
> Dr. Freddie A. Johnson, Extension Entomologist
> Hops
> Cythion (malathion)
> *Diazinon (diazinon)
> Dipel (B.t.)
> Javelin (B.t.)
> Kelthane (dicofol)
> Omite (propargite)
> *Telone II (1,3-dichloropropene)
> *Telone C-17 (1,3-dichloropropene + chloropicrin)
> Vapam (metam-sodium)
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> An asterisk (*) denotes a restricted use material (requires State of
> Florida permit to purchase and use insecticide).
>
> Trade names are followed by the generic or common chemical name indicated
> by parentheses ( ). There may be one to numerous trade names for each
> generic name. Some generic names may also be used as trade name, i.e.,
> Ethion (ethion).
So it appears that Malathion, which is readily available at home centers, is
approved for use on hops, at least in the State of Florida, so hopefully would
be ok in Virginia, and elsewhere.
Hope this is of some help to HBD.
Hoppy Brewing :^)
Art McGregor
(day: mcgregap@acq.osd.mil)
(evening: apmcgregor@nmaa.org)
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 14:11:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Soapy beer
Paddy writes to ask why his beer tastes soapy. High temp.
fermentation is a common cause of this (something to do with lipids,
don't remember specifically). Could that be it? Was this short
enough?
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: "Bernard D Hummel" <hummelbe@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 14:48:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Lagers at 65F, HBD organization
Thanks to all who replied to my question about brewing with lager yeast at 65F
since I don't have a dedicated refridgerator (or my wife would kill me if I
took over our normal fridge). Your suggestions were very helpfull. Summary -
either brew at 65F with lager yeast (california common (steam) and Kolsch were
highly recommended) but suffer a little loss in flavor/body...or find a way to
brew at colder temps. To brew at cold temps it was suggested that I use a
bucket of water around the fermentor with a wet towel around the fermentor for
evaporative cooling. Adding ice to the water bath or letting cold tap water
flow through the tub was also suggested. Thank to all.
About the HBD length...not to add too much more to the fire but...I think it
would be nice *not* to limit to one per day but to self impose limits on space,
use more personal e-mail contacts with summaries posted, and to have the HBD
grouped into catagories (suggestions-1.new questions 2.replies 3.misc.). Just
a suggestion.
-Ben
------------------------------
From: Craig Amundsen <amundsen@biosci.cbs.umn.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 14:51:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Tapioca
Hi -
I was just trying to catch up on my backlog of _Science_ issues and I came
across an interesting item in the Random Samples section. It seems that
tapioca may make as good a medium for tissue culture as agar. So, you budding
yeast ranchers out there who don't want to use gelatin, and are put off by
the price of agar, can use tapioca (unflavored, I assume) instead. The
actual article is in the 10 April issue of _Current Science_ by Nene,
Vijayakumar, and Moss. They caution that it still needs to be established that
"in the long term tapioca will not induce mutations or upset the nutritional
balance in the medium, especially since a much larger quantity of tapioca has
to be used for producing a similar sort of gelling action." As a preliminary
result it looks pretty good for us basement scientists. The only problem is
they didn't mention how much more tapioca you need to use. I think I may play
with the autoclave this weekend. B^)
$1/50
- - Craig
- --
+-----------------------------+------------------------------------------------+
| Craig Amundsen | DILBERT - Sometimes I wonder if it's ethical |
| amundsen@biosci.cbs.umn.edu | to do these genetic experiments. But |
| (612) 624-2704 | I rationalize it because it will |
| 250 Biological Sciences | improve the quality of life. |
| 1445 Gortner Avenue | DOGBERT - What are you making? |
| Saint Paul, MN 55108 | DILBERT - Skunkopotamus. O- |
+-----------------------------+------------------------------------------------+
------------------------------
From: Kurt Schilling <kurt@pop.iquest.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 15:06 EST
Subject: Cleaning Grolsch Bottles
Howdy folks:
One quick question addressed to the collective wisdom of HBD land. How
or what is best way to prepare Grolsch bottles for use? By this I seek
a new and prehaps a better method than I have been using Currently
I remove the wire harness and the stopper/gasket from the bottle. Then
sanitize the stopper/gasket in a sterilizing solution (usually diluted bleach)
then re-install the components, fill the bottle and flips the cap to
closed postion.
Private e-mail is fine (to conserve bandwidth)
Kurt
e-mail kurt@iquest.net
------------------------------
From: Cory Wright <cwright@midcom.anza.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 15:42:46 -0500
Subject: Re: plastic carboys
Joe Labeck wrote:
>
I've used a plastic 5-gal carboy for over a year, now. I've had
no problems at all. I'd recommend it to anyone short on cash
(like me).
>
In my case, the plastic carboy was only marginally cheaper than the glass.
I went to my local Culligan man (no affiliation, yada, yada...) and picked
up a used 5 gallon glass carboy for $10. The plastic ones were $8. For the
small price difference, the benefits of longevity and ease of sanitation
won out. Of course, YMMV (and usually does @;-)
Cheers,
Cory
cwright@midcom.anza.com
Sorry, no cute saying.
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 11 Jul 96 16:45:36 EDT
Subject: Carboy insulation,Sulfurous acid
Brewsters:
Val Martinez asks what we think about making a sleeved jacket for his carboy to
keep its temp more even.
Have you ever used a blanket as a first try? Is the temperature varying all
that much? How about fiberglass insulation in a protective cover to keep down
the glass slivers in the air? How about 1" polystyrene foam box?
- ----------------------------------------------------
AlK asks about the chemistry of metabisulfites. metabisulfite produces
sulfurOUS acid (H2SO3) upon acidification and sulfurous acid is thermally
unstable and can produce sulfur dioxide.( Analogous to carbonic acid and carbon
dioxide). However, sulfurous acid is reactive and essentially upon contact with
oxygen (or at least pretty fast) it is oxidized to the very stable sulfuric
acid. When titrating with or for sulfites it is necessary to place the tip of
the burette under the surface of the solution under investigation to prevent
the
entrainment of oxygen from the air . ( Does anybody use a burette anymore?
I do at home.)
The reason you can put bisulfite into wines and then add the yeast a little
later is 1) yeast generally can take 100 ppm of sulfurous acid, bacteria can't
take more than 30 ppm. So the dosage in the crush is about 100 ppm 2) Oxygen in
the crush chews up the excess quickly. You can see this when adding
metabisulfite to pink grape juice. The pink juice turns greenish and then
returns to pink in a few minutes as the sulfurous acid is chewed up by the
oxygen and other oxidizers. The metabisulfite is acting as a temporary bleach,
which is how these sulfur oxides are sometimes employed in industry.
- --------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
From: "Richard Scotty" <rscotty@uswest.com>
Date: 11 Jul 1996 15:22:27 -0600
Subject: Carboy Cozey
Greetings fellow brewers! A few comments / observations:
Insulated carboy covers-
I've been using these for quite a while now. They even out the thermal
swings that can occur in my house especially during spring and fall.
I've made mine from the aluminized plastic bubble type insulation that can
commonly be found in most home improvement stores. You can whip one of these
together in about 20 minutes and it has the added benefit of keeping light
from skunking your beer during fermentation.
High temp lagers -
I brewed a Vienna Marzen and fermented it with Wyeast Munich (can't remember
the number) at about 65 degrees. The result of this experiment was
interesting - not a marzen, but interesting. It's diacityl city and has some
serious sulphur notes, but the neighbors love the stuff - go figure.
HBD length -
My vote is to go back to the single digest daily for convience sake. Of
course, my vote and $2.50 will get you a beer.
Cheers,
Rich Scotty
Beer line cleaning specialist - The Crapshoot Brewery
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 17:00:02 CDT
Subject: Enzyme Kinetics
I don't know anything about Enzyme Kinetics and I won't pretend to. I
don't know if it is reasonable to assume that the rate of disappearance of
beta-amylase at 158F is 22 to 30 minutes. I also don't have documented
data on the denaturization of beta-amylase.
What I *do* know is that we don't need to know all this to make good beer.
I also know that what's important to the brewer is what I said in my first
post on the subject:
>Beta amylase is denatured
>quite quickly at higher temperatures which is why higher mash temperatures
>(like 155 to 158F) will give you a less fermentable wort (less maltose, more
>dextrins). Cooler mash temperatures take longer, but result in the beta
>amylase lasting longer and therefore turning more of the dextrins into
>fermentables (primarily maltose).
and:
>The solution [to lowering your FG] is to lower the temperature into the
>148-152F range AND make sure you are mashing at least 1.5 hours.
If you agree that this will work to lower FG Dave, then we've gone full
circle and are ready to move on.
In another post, Dave writes:
>I'm also an advanced class ham radio operator, KC2LZ, if
>that's important to you
Crucial. It explains everything. Remember when I wrote this about Dave:
>You remind me of a polite, non-commercial Jack Schmidling.
>Sorry Jack ;^).
In Homebrew Digest #1033:
>Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 09:00 CST
>From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
>Subject: Ham Brew Forum
>
>
> I get many inquiries about my logon (arf) and herein furnish the explanation
> along with another idea for expanding the outreach to and of the homebrew
> community.
>
> ARF is an acronym for the Amateur Radio Forum. This was a weekly talk show
> that I hosted for over 5 years on the 75 meter amateur radio band. It was 3
> hrs of nonstop monolog and dialog on frequently outrageous and usually
> politically incorrect issues of the day. I was, for all practical purposes
> the Rush Limbaugh of ham radio. Unlike Rush, I got nothing (but fun) for my
> efforts and finally got bored with it all and gave it up this Fall. The
> acronym was a natural choice for my internet logan as I was also very active
> in political discussions on usenet and the continuity made sense at the time.
<snip>
I predict that Dave and I will argue a lot, he will retire soon (if he hasn't
already), then he'll develop a revolutionary piece of brewing equipment
for which we will all thank him over and over. So get on with it Dave...
you can skip what Jack did for the first year of his parcitipation on HBD
(questioned accepted brewing practice) and start inventing!
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@lucent.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: "Gregg A. Howard" <102012.3350@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 11 Jul 96 18:14:59 EDT
Subject: re: Baby steps...
Dean asks about advice on economical advances to conquer full boil. After
searching in vain for a sufficiently large and reasonable priced kettle for
stove-top brewing, I settled on splitting the boil in two 16 qt stainless
stockpots. They are very thin-walled, but stand up under the rigors of
household use just fine. I got them at a department store chain here that
prices them at ~US$25, but has them on sale for US$14.99 two or three times a
year. I have four, enough for sparge water and runnings. They are easy to lift
when full, easy to store and also come in handy for cooking soup, spaghetti,
etc, in quantity. For me, their versatility and price compared to one big
kettle is ideal.
Gregg A. Howard Denver, Co. 102012.3350@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: Eugene Sonn <eugene@dreamscape.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 22:18:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: too much HBD
We might not be so overloaded if everyone stopped talking about it. ;)
Eugene eugene@nova.dreamscape.com
------------------------------
From: Delano Dugarm <adugarm@worldbank.org>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 13:28:43 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Canning wort
Paul Kensler writes:
"Given that I still want to make a 'bulk' of starter wort
ahead of time, what can I do to ensure that I don't use any that
are possibly infected."
The best advice is to get a good canning book. I'd
recommend _Putting Food By_, but the Ball Blue Book or the Kerr
canning books are also good, if not quite as obsessed about
safety as _Putting Food By_. Failing that, either call your
County Extension Service or do a search on the WWW.
The following list I've gotten from Ruth Hertzberg, et
al. _Putting Food By_ 2nd ed. (New York: Bantam, 1976).
1) Don't use it if the lid is loose, or the seal broken.
Store the jars with the screw bands off.
2) Don't use it if the lid bulges, or there is seepage
around the seal, even if the lid seems to be seated.
3) Don't use it if there are rising air bubbles or an
unnatural color.
4) On opening the jar, check for spurting liquid,
strange odors, frothiness, or mold growth on the inside of the
lid. If you see any of these signs, don't use it.
If it's gone bad, detoxify by putting the jar, its
contents and the lid in a big pot, adding enough water to cover
the jar and boil everything for thirty minutes before putting it
in the garbage.
I've successfully put up wort in mason jars using a
boiling water bath, but I switched over to pressure canning
because I didn't want to worry about the safety of the canned
wort. As many people have pointed out both in HBD and in r.f.d.,
it is quite possible to can wort with a hot water bath and store
it for months. I know. I've done it.
Nevertheless, it also is more likely that your wort will
spoil if you process it that way rather than use a pressure
canner. You can get away with using a boiling water bath for
years (my mother canned low-acid vegetables that way for
decades), but someday your luck might run out, and the results,
especially with botulism, can be very nasty. I think that
pressure canning is worth the extra effort and expense.
Delano DuGarm
Arlington, VA
------------------------------
From: "Stanley A. White/620664/PPI/EKC"
Date: 11 Jul 96 5:20:09 EDT
Subject: Atlanta or Minneapolis Brewpubs
Greetings to all!!
I will be traveling in the Minneaopolis and Atlanta areas soon and was looking
for good brewpubs / bars with good beer selection for the time I'm there.
Won't have a car so cab or walking distance is best.
I'm staying at the Radison in downtown Minneapolis and at the Hotel Nikko on
Peachtree NE in Atlanta.
Private E-mail fine.
THANKS!!
Stan White
swhite@kodak.com
------------------------------
From: ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT <skotrat@wwa.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 22:40:44 -0500
Subject: Summer Brewing-National Homebrew Day/AOB=too many HBD's/Our Buddy AL
Howdy all,
A couple of months ago we all had a talk about National Homebrew Day Pros
and Cons. I want to take a poll to see how many of us are brewing in the
summer heat.
Please email me at:
ZYMURGY@poohgee.com
with the subject line: Summer Brewing
In the body of the message tell me if you are brewing or not brewing.
I will let you all know the results.
On another note...
I write html and I am on line most of the time but I am really getting tired
of trying to read up to 3 HBD's a day. I say we revolt at this point.
HEY BABCOCK OPEN YOUR MOUTH HUH???? WHERE ARE YA???
And yet another note...
Everybody lays into Al pretty hard most of the time and although he tends to
ramble on he is a wealth of info to most brewers who are starting out (it
would have been nice to know Al when I started brewing). An awful lot of us
tend to shoot answers off the cuff and are often wrong (not to say Al is
always right). Al seems to me to be the kind of person that looks everything
up and confirms it (besides... he let me beat S. Dornseif out of best of show).
There is far too much flaming going on from just about everyone, even I the
ultimate practical joker find this to be a waste of time. If you want to
flame someone make it a private email.
- -Scott
################################################################
# ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT #
# Scott Abene <skotrat@wwa.com> #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) #
# OR #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) #
# "Get off your dead ass and brew" #
# "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" #
################################################################
------------------------------
From: "CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865" <CHUDSON@mozart.unm.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 23:18:19 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: RE: Hopefully
Thanks Shawn, this does maker a lot easier to reply to a person or the list or
both. It was a pain to search through the header trying to find the persons
e-mail address.
Chuck Hudson
------------------------------
From: Bob McCowan <bob.mccowan@bmd.cpii.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 07:22:22 -0400
Subject: Where to get beer in New Brunswick or PEI (CA)
Last year when we went to PEI we found the beer selection poor. I think the
best we could get was Moosehead. No micros of any sort. Not even a
Moosehaed (or other) specialty.
Since we're going for a week this year (except for the beer it's a great
place) I'd like to get some on the way and take it with me.
Where's a good, convenient place to get beer? What's good beer to buy? We'll
be crossing the border at Calais, and traveling through St. Johns and (I
think) Moncton. I can grab some beer in Maine, but my wife wants to take
some wine, and I don't want to go over the customs limit.
Any assistance would be appreciated. Private E-mail is preferred, but I'll
check the digests as well.
Thanks
Bob
bob.mccowan@cfrp.varian.com
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob McCowan
voice: (508)-922-6000 x208
ATG/Receiver-Protector fax: (508)-922-8914
CPI BMD
Formerly Varian CF&RPP e-mail: bob.mccowan@bmd.cpii.com or
Beverly, MA 01915 bob.mccowan@cfrp.varian.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: h.smith@e-mail.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 08:37:07 EDT
Subject: Charleston brewing
Looking for some helpful info...
I'll be moving to Charleston, SC soon and would love to hear about some
brew supply stores in the area. Any word on brewpubs and local beers down
there would be welcome, too. Thanks.
Howard
p.s. private email would probably be best
------------------------------
From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock@ford.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 08:54:54 -0400
Subject: Young yeast/old yeast; humor; amylase, spamylase
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Brother (and sister!) brewers: I am puzzled and troubled by a post from the
emminent Mr. Bruce Herron regarding young/old yeast ratios in sediment and in
smack packs (HBD 2100 - getting two or three of these LONG WINDED puppies a
day, well: Help! I've fallen behind, and I can't catch up!)
Anyway, Bruce suggests that there would be more YOUNG yeast than OLD yeast in
a smack pack. Converse for the sediment. He suggests building a starter from
a portion of the sediment rather than pitching over it.
This makes absolutely no sense to me. If I start from a portion of the
sediment, won't the yeast age normally with each step up; still providing
both young and old yeast to the brew? Does Wyeast et al do some special
manipulations to ensure only young yeast in the smack pack? I think not, but
I am not a <put your favorite science related to the subject here>ologist.
What's up with this? Even if I isolated a cell for pure culturing, by the
time I have a pitchable culture, I'd expect that there would be similar
ratios of old to young yeast. What am I missing here?
***********************
John Wyllie (The Cosmic Owoooooo Coyote) recently commented about the lack of
appreciation on the current HBD for his refined sense of humor. John, since
you left, the Post Content Vigilantes have swooped down and have taken
control of the Digest. To survive, you must go underground. Resist the urge
to post humourous notes. When the urge occurs, it helps to repeat "I'm a
humorless bastard" to yourself, then lay down until the feeling passes.
***********************
Al? Dave? Battle well fought. Now, can't we... all... just get along? No need
for honor defense. As was pointed out earlier (and many many times), the
experts make mistakes, too. Just agree to disagree, and let's get on with
life. And less repetition. It's pretty tiring to see the same words over and
over and over. No new ground is being covered. And its apparent neither of
you can convince the other anyway. Seems to be what this has descended to.
Don't want people to lose the respect you've garnered for yourselves through
your informative posts here...
Sorry if I offend.
See ya!
Pat Babcock pbabcock@oeonline.com
http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html
------------------------------
From: Bill Rust <wrust@csc.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 08:56 EDT
Subject: Lambic Article
Morning Brewmeisters,
There is a great article in the August 1996 issue of Scientific American on
Lambic beers. The main thrust of the article is about the unique
fermentation process. Pretty enjoyable reading.
Skol.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Bill Rust, Master Brewer | for (beer=99; beer>0; beer--) {
Jack Pine Savage Brewery | take_one_down();
Established 1985 (NACE) | pass_it_around(); }
-----------------------------------------------------------
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
From: BRIAN F. THUMM <THUMMBF@GWSMTP.NU.COM>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 09:22:28 -0400
Subject: Lager Temperature
I am hesitant to lager a pilsener in a "real" fridge (i.e., at 40 degrees F).
I don't have a second fridge which I can set at 50-55 degreres. My question
is...will my beer ferment at 40 degrees? Or will it just sit there, stuck?
Should I double the yeast and hope it ferments out? Any help will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks!
BFT
------------------------------
From: "Allan Rubinoff" <allan_rubinoff@mathworks.com>
Date: 12 Jul 1996 10:03:04 -0400
Subject: Too much HBD?
A couple of people have already made this point, but I'd like to speak up
in agreement. The HBD volume could be reduced significantly if two
features from the "old" HBD were reinstated: the ability to cancel
articles, and the ability to see what else is in the queue. There have
been about ten posts recently about the pH of distilled water; I suspect
several of the posters would have cancelled their articles if they had
a way to do so, and if they had known about the other articles.
Allan Rubinoff
rubinoff@mathworks.com
------------------------------
From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock@ford.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 10:11:39 -0400
Subject: Beer is space....
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Hmmmm. Can the yeast access all the wort to ferment it in zero G if the
bubbles aren't floating them around? Seems like there'd be no currents in the
wort, either, since hot rises and cold sinks (convection) due to densometric
(new word. Like it?) differences - gravity. Or can yeast move around the
fermenter of their own accord? Again, not a <put your favorite science
related to the subject here>ologist.
See ya!
- -Pat Babcock
pbabcock@oeonline.com
http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/~brew.html
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2104
****************************
