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HOMEBREW Digest #2091
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/07/02 PDT
Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Number 2091
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
maltose syrup recipe ("Dr. Gillian Grafton")
Chilling Experience ("Frederick L. Pauly")
Copy of: Bitter bitters (Michael Newman)
KEG CONVERSION, help needed ("Braam Greyling")
Re: hops in spaaace ("Dave Higdon")
That dreaded t*est ("David K. Schafer")
Priming within the Reinheitsgebot (George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro))
oxygenation, stuck fermentation, stupid brewer tricks (Rob Emenecker)
Pressure Cooker Wort (KennyEddy@aol.com)
Thermometers (Kallen Jenne)
1996 Colorado Brewers Festival (John Adams)
Bottle source (Michael Mahler/Shiva Corporation)
Anyone familiar with the Ready To Pitch Bavarian Wheat yeast? (Michael Mahler/Shiva Corporation)
Note on Gelatinization ("Palmer.John")
Re; hops drying ("Sharon A. Ritter")
RE: Dead yeast in fridge (George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro))
Measures Question Answered (Keith Chamberlin)
Re: That dreaded testing stuff (shawn@aob.org (Shawn Steele))
Lawn Mowing (Bill Giffin)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Dr. Gillian Grafton" <GRAFTONG@novell2.bham.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:19:29 +0000
Subject: maltose syrup recipe
Gregory King asked about maltose syrup. You can't buy the stuff but
you can make it.
800g glucose powder
200g dextrin powder (NOT dextrose!)
Mix the powders well. Make an 80% solution in water eg, take 800g of
the mixed powder and add to water. Heat gently to dissolve. Make up
to 1 litre with water. Boil to sanitise and store in the fridge. This
doesn't have the consistency of syrup - the viscosity is quite low,
but it works well as a very close substitute for commerical maltose
syrup.
Gillian Grafton
Membership Secretary: Craft Brewing Association
email: GraftonG@novell2.bham.ac.uk
www: http://sun1.bham.ac.uk/graftong/
------------------------------
From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m@galen.med.virginia.edu>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 07:13:00 -0400
Subject: Chilling Experience
I use a 2 stage immersion chiller. One 40' coil in a bucket
filled with ice water connected to another 40' coil that goes in
the kettle. It chills 11 gallons of boiling wort to 70F in 15
minutes. In the winter it takes one 18 pound bag of ice and I
have ice left over, in the summer it takes two bags.
Rick Pauly
Nuc Med Tech
Charlotttesville,VA
------------------------------
From: Michael Newman <100711.2111@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 02 Jul 96 07:56:41 EDT
Subject: Copy of: Bitter bitters
- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: Michael Newman, 100711,2111
TO: Homebrew Digest REQUESTS, INTERNET:homebrew-digest-request@aob.org
DATE: 01/07/96 16:20
RE: Copy of: Bitter bitters
Al Korzonas discussed the bitterness of British Bitters in HBD2086. I found his
statement that most Bitter
inclines towards the hop bitterness rather than bitterness in balance with
maltiness quite interesting. As a
long time drinker of bitter (!) I would say I am frustrated at the lack of
bitterness in most commercial
Bitter. Of course personal perception has a lot to do with this. It is also
regional: being born and raised
in the West of England I know that beer in this area inclines to the malty, not
to say sweet, which is a
pity because I like them bitter. Beers from the North East of England seem to
be much more satisfactory
in terms of bitterness. Nether area is is very close to hop producing areas,
although Herefordshire and
Worcestershire are slap bang in the middle of them.
Some beers from Kent do seem to feature the hop quite highly, especially
Shephard Neame's various brews.
Another point is that hoppiness (hop flavour) is important and beers that are
not particularly bitter can be
well balanced if they have good hop flavour. I'm starting to feel quite thirsty
now :-).
What I what to know is how did your travel the length of the country, drink 200
pints(?) of beer and arrive
safe and intact. A most impressive feat.
MICHAEL NEWMAN
------------------------------
From: "Braam Greyling" <acg@knersus.nanoteq.co.za>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 14:09:09 +200
Subject: KEG CONVERSION, help needed
Hi,
I have bought three 50 litre = 13.2086 gallon (U.S) stainless steel
kegs. I am in the process of converting these into a nice brewery.
I have a problem with the mashtun. My kegs have already a hole on the
side.The hole is very near the bottom of the keg. How can I make a
false bottom ?
I got some aluminium mesh and an aluminium rod. Should I rather get
stainless steel ? Does anyone have an easy idea on how I should make
a false bottom ?
There is a ridge near the bottom of the keg and I thought maybe I
should let the false bottom rest on it. Only thing is I suspect it
may be too far from the bottom. How far can the false bottom be from
the real bottom ?
Also, after working with the kegs I notice some greyish stuff on my
hands, almost like grey dust. What can it be, will it harm my beer ?
Should I scrub the kegs with soap and water ?
Thank you
Any help will be appreciated.
Braam Greyling Design Engineer
Nanoteq (Pty) Ltd tel. +27 (12) 665-1338
- ---- 24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case ----
- ---- coincidence ????? ----
------------------------------
From: "Dave Higdon" <DAVEH@qesrv1.bwi.wec.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 08:54:06 EST
Subject: Re: hops in spaaace
So how about it, oh great and wise collective? If I were reading (or even
writing) a story in which the hero/heroine were a brewster, what quirks
should I expect from zero gravity brewing? What types of yeast would
flocculate best, or will a filter be mandatory? Will there finally be a
market for better dry yeasts? Will an ordinary bubbler airlock still work,
assuming the fermenter is in a pressurized cabin? How will I get my OG and
FG readings? Will we have to adjust alcohol levels? Just what effect will
zero-g have on alcohol tolerances?
If you were to brew in zero gravity I would think ale yeast would be
best to use since the beer would be floating inside the carboy you
would not want lager yeast, bottom fermenting , because it could let
out the CO2 under it building up pressure and pushing the beer out
the air lock. But who's to say it would fall to the bottom so I guess
ale yeast could do the same.
------------------------------
From: "David K. Schafer" <DSCHAFER@museum.nysed.gov>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:35:17 EDT
Subject: That dreaded t*est
A bit of a waste of band width, sorry, but......
Not picking on Dave (what a good name...), but x 2.....
In Homebrew Digest #2089 (Monday, 1 July 1996) Dave Burley writes:
> Until Shawn tells me differently, I will use T*st where * = e in all
> cases, since there is an error in his text reader. I spent too much
> time returning and modifying messages, thinking that if the word
> t*st was contained in another word it would be OK. It wasn't.
Yet, earlier in the same message is the passage...(emphasis added)
> John Coopens asks about a non-Clinit*st sugar kit. He tried to TEST
> sucrose with a peroxidase based TEST and got no response and asks
> why. He wants to use a TEST method like this as a substitute for a
> broken hydrometer.
>
> I am not familiar with this TEST nor do I know how it functions, but
> that won't stop me from giving you my opinion.
I don't know what the dreaded problem with t*st is, but the word can,
apparently, be included in our messages SOMETIMES. Could anyone
clarify this trivial, yet noticeable, dilemma?
Good Brewing!!!
Dave
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:31:29 -0700
Subject: Priming within the Reinheitsgebot
At first I was just going to reply to this post (originally in HBD
2088) via private Email, but then realized there may be other relative
beginners who would like to know this.
German brewers have several ways they can carbonate their beer and be
in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot (Beer purity law).
Their first option is to force carbonate, much like those of us with
kegs do. The difference is that they must use CO2 collected during
fermentation, not from an industrial source.
They can (and often do, especially with bottle conditioned beers like
Weizen) Krausen the beer. That is simply adding some fresh wort and
yeast at the high krausen stage to the flat, but fermented beer. This
is tricky to duplicate at home because you have to know in advance how
fermentable your wort is to calculate how carbonated your beer will
be.
They can also add Speise (unfermented wort, literally, "food") to the
fully fermented beer. This is like Krausening, but without adding
fresh yeast. I often use this method. Just save some of your wort by
canning it on brewing day. You'll see how fermentable it was by the
SG readings of the ferment, then you can calculate how much to add at
bottling.
The easiest thing you can do at home is to add dry malt extract at
bottling time (3/4-1 cup, I think. Check the books, I never do this).
Even easier is priming with glucose (corn sugar). This is not allowed
if you are claiming to be brewing by the Reinheitsgebot, though.
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: Rob Emenecker <robe@cadmus.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 09:38:21 PDT
Subject: oxygenation, stuck fermentation, stupid brewer tricks
Hello all! I'm jumping in from the "lurking pond" to get an answer to the
age old question.... "Is My Beer Ruined"!
I brewed an English Brown Ale this past Sunday using a single infusion of
156*F for 90 minutes then a mash-out at 170*F for 10 minutes. The sparge took
about 1 hour and proceeded without incident. Boiled for 75 minutes adding
hops at 15, 60, and 75 minute intervals. Chilled with a counterflow chiller.
Aerated for 15 minutes with an aquarium pump then pitched 2 packets of M&F
rehydrated yeast. Yeast was pitched at 7:00 PM on Sunday and the brew's O.G.
was 1.049 (70% extraction efficiency).
Monday morning the brew was happily bubbling away. Monday afternoon there was
no activity whatsoever. Cripes! What could have gone wrong? Is My Beer
Ruined? In a fit of despair I paddling/splashing the hell out of the brew
for about 20 minutes (assuming that it was not properly aerated). After 1-1/2
hours I began to see bubbling again; about one bubble every 1 minute. This
lasted all of 4 hours then it died again. Okay so maybe it was an oxygen
issue? What next, was the yeast dead (please do not jump in with semantic
corrections... denatured, autolyzed, disassembled, dead, all the same to me)?
I rehydrated it in boiled water that was cooled to 80*F before adding the
yeast.
Do I cut my looses and try again or can the brew be salvaged? Before you
answer consider this... if you solution is going to cost me money and there
is no certainty that it will work, then I would prefer to brew another batch
rather than p#ss away more homebrewing funds.
Since I mentioned oxygenation, I caught the recent inquiries about the
oxygenator and alternative sources of oxygen. Any additional info folks could
provide would be appreciated. Purchasing the Oxygenator from Liquid Bread
makes it easy to get every a la "one stop shopping", regardless, if I can
acquire the parts individually and a lot cheaper I would prefer to do so.
On a final note... I wanted to share my latest stupid brewer's trick from the
brew session on Sunday. I mash in a 10 gal. SS pot which I keep in an
insulated box during temperature rests. Through trial and error I learned
that "preheating" the box inhibits any great heat loss at the first
temperature rest. This Sunday I put a 4 gallon pot of boiling water into the
box. Along with the pot I put my thermometer sitting upright in a bottle
adjacent to the pot. Closed the box lid and let it set for 20 minutes. After
20 minutes I opened the box to check the temperature and steam billowed out.
Oh, by the way, did I mentioned that the thermometer was a digital one. Doo!
Doo! The LCD display melted and fused with the guts of the thermometer due to
the intense steam trapped inside the box. Now you know why I am so
oversensitized to p#ssing away homebrewing funds ;)
****************************************************************************
| (remenecker@cadmus.com) | (RobEmnckr@aol.com) |
| Cadmus Journal Services, Inc. | Brewery Manager, Standing Rock Brewery |
| Linthicum, Maryland 21090 | Proud Purveyors of "Hairy Dog Homebrew"! |
| 410-691-6454 / 684-2788 (fax) | (410) 859-9169 (voice only) |
****************************************************************************
------------------------------
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 10:30:00 -0400
Subject: Pressure Cooker Wort
Mike in Dallas asked:
<<Has anyone ever boiled their wort in a pressure cooker. Granted, it might
take a large cooker to boil all of the liquid, but since the liquid
retention would be so great it seems like a good idea to try.>>
NOT a good idea! (1) It's unnecessary from a sterilization standpoint; your
chilling/racking mechanism is still a much larger contamination risk than
whether your boiled wort is sterile. (2) Volatile evaporation will be
reintroduced into the beer. In particular, DMS (cooked-corn flavor/aroma)
will build up and YBWBR (you beer will be ruined).
Open boiling is fine. Losing water is fine. Just plan for it in your recipe
/ technique.
Ken Schwartz
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://users.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
From: Kallen Jenne <tirado@sprynet.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 07:34:21 -0700
Subject: Thermometers
I am in the final (read: ongoing) stages of putting together my
3-tier, converted keg system. My problem is with thermometers. I
am highly interested in avoiding the plumbing and cost of going
with 3 separate bi-metal thermometers. Anyone have a source on a
quick-read digital thermometer? As I envision it, it must have a long
(20"?) probe. I would welcome any suggestions/ideas or info on where to
buy/price. Please send pricing info/etc. to my e-mail so HBD won't get
filled w/retailer info.
Thanks,
Kallen
------------------------------
From: John Adams <jadams@pipeline.cnd.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 08:51:06 -0600
Subject: 1996 Colorado Brewers Festival
1996 Colorado Brewers Festival
The Colorado Brewers Festival was held Saturday and Sunday June 29 and
30 in Fort Collins, Colorado. Saturday was a fantastic Colorado summer
day, the beers refreshing, and the downtown atmosphere was perfect.
Last years festival was (unfortunately) held in a less than ideal
parking lot (due to construction downtown) but this year's event
returned to Olde Town with 21 beers from 21 breweries. This is the
original Colorado-only beer festival and still better than the Lodo
fest I attended last weekend (even thought they used last year's mugs).
Many of the beers were nothing fantastic (but good never the less), one
beer bad enough to find the spooge bucket, but my 'best of show' goes to
IL Vicino's Wet Mountain IPA with B.F. Coleman and Palmer Lake breweries
as runners up.
John Adams
- ---
Range River Red (4 stars)
B.F. Coleman Brewing (Judge Baldwin's)
Colorado Springs, Colorado
A nice dry hoppy flavor. Flavored with a hint of raspberry and wheat,
this has a slight raspberry tartness and very very drinkable -- Nice!
Honey Rose Amber Ale (2 stars)
The Coophouse Brewery
Broomfield, Colorado
The Coophouse recently went from extract to all-grain. This is a
pleasant spicy ale, with a little diacytle that is noticeable. Clean
and drinkable.
Duke of Ale (2 stars)
Fleetside Pub & Brewery
Greeley, Colorado
Not a bad beer (maybe it just the big pour)! A roasty taste that has
a slightly astringent taste. Slightly hoppy and finishes dry.
Wet Mountain India Pale Ale (5 stars)
IL Vicino Oven Pizza and Brewery
Salida, Colorado
YUM! Very hoppy, slightly bitter IPA. Nice centennial hop character
that has a dry finish. This beer wins my personal Best of Show.
Seamas' Irish Red Ale (3 stars)
Namaqua Brewing Company
Loveland, Colorado
Namaqua had a very good beer at the Lodo fest so I had to check them
out. A nice mild-medium bodied ale. Slightly bitter, dry finish and
clean. Very pleasant beer.
Levity Ale (3 stars)
Odell Brewing
Fort Collins, Colorado
Nice clean, mild taste that is slightly sweet. Not too much or too
little, very quenchable.
Palmer Lake Cherry Velvet Porter (4 stars)
Palmer Lake Brewing Company
Plamer Lake, Colorado
This beer is velvety and smooth. Slightly tart finish and creamy. I
talked with others who later in the day tried this and hated it. Maybe
they got the Palmer/Powers kegs switched or the heat of the day took
it's toll.
Cherry Lager (0.5 stars)
Powers Brewing Company
Brighton, Colorado
This beer was really bad, it gets my 'Dog Award' (which is not given
very often). Oxidized and astringent, YUCH --I dumped this beer after
two swallows!
Pick Axe Pale Ale (3 stars)
Tommyknocker Micro-Brewery
Idaho Springs, Colorado
A slightly bitter beer that has a medium hoppiness. Needs a little
more hop flavor, pleasant and drinkable. Slightly astringent.
Rattlesnake Kate's Vienna Lager (2 stars)
Union Colony Brewery
Greeley, Colorado
A nice clean lager. Spicy and refreshing but nothing out of the
ordinary.
Artic Wheat (3 stars)
Mountain Sun Pub and Brewery
Boulder, Colorado
I finished the day with this unique, lemongrass and mint wheat beer.
Very nice for a hot summer day beer. Lemony freshness made this a very
refreshing beer.
------------------------------
From: Michael Mahler/Shiva Corporation <mmahler@shiva.com>
Date: 2 Jul 96 11:40:22 EDT
Subject: Bottle source
Just wanted to let people know that there is a stout on the market called
Ipswitch Stout (don't know if they make other models), made in Ipswitch, MA.
They sell their brew in VERY large flip top bottles - must be about 1 liter and
brown too! They charge about $1.50 deposit when you buy the beer and I just
keep the bottle - also, the package store where I get them has been saving them
for me and I buy them by the case (like $18). Expensive but they sure are
nifty!
------------------------------
From: Michael Mahler/Shiva Corporation <mmahler@shiva.com>
Date: 2 Jul 96 11:36:07 EDT
Subject: Anyone familiar with the Ready To Pitch Bavarian Wheat yeast?
I used this yeast for a recent Weizen but I am not sure what I should expect in
terms of clove,etc. as compared to Wyeast's version. Also I used another yeast
before bottling called St. Louis Lager - anyone familiar with this one?
Yes, it was a clean-out-the-fridge type brew...
------------------------------
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Date: 2 Jul 1996 08:49:13 U
Subject: Note on Gelatinization
With the recent discussion of enzymes and beta amylase in particular, the
question arose on how effective a 140F Beta Amylase Rest was in the Starches
were not Gelitinized until 149F. Al commented that he thought the 149 came from
Noonan's book which in turn may have gotten it from Malting and Brewing
Science.
I had the same question when I was researching my book* last year and talked
with Dr George Fix about it. He stated that 149F can be regarded as the
temperature were Gelatinization is complete for all intents and purposes.
(Though I am thinking that it may actually be a 90% complete mark, similar to
other delineations for other reactions such as Martensitic Transformation in
steels.) Anyway, George said that his experiences had borne this out, that
gelatinization was occuring at lower temperatures as well and Beta was active
between 130 and 155F, 140 approaching peak conditions.
Just an FYI,
John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-ISS M&P
johnj@primenet.com Huntington Beach, California
Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/
* My book, How To Brew Your First Beer, should be available by Fall. I have
posted the Table of Contents and a couple chapters dealing with Mashing to my
web page. Feedback is welcome.
------------------------------
From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 02 Jul 96 11:56:11 EDT
Subject: Re; hops drying
Dave Burley writes:
>Papazian ( I think) in one or more of his books suggest using your
>clothes dryer. Tie the hops up in a pillow case and dry away. Keep the
>temperature between 130F and 150F( Malting and Brewing Science p. 309).
I have a healthy crop of hops taking over my back yard and I was
planning to air dry them slowly in my well ventilated and warmish garage
(75-80 F in the late summer early fall and fairly dry climate). I have
built several large framed screens that will hang from the ceiling.
Every day I will conscientously go out and "stir" the cones to encourage
even drying. Will this work or am I asking for failure? In the
dryer?!#....my wife and kids would freak!
Dan Ritter in Grangeville, Idaho
102446.3717@compuserve.com
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 12:21:14 -0700
Subject: RE: Dead yeast in fridge
This is in response to the person whose name I can't remember. They
said they stored yeast from a previous fermentation in the fridge for
two weeks, and when they pitched it no fermentation was evident.
Assuming that the first fermentation was healthy, the only things I
can think of are: 1. You left sanitizer in a vessel that contacted
the yeast.
2. The yeast went dormant and needed to be more slowly roused (I
usually add a little fresh wort to them a day or two before pitching).
In this case, it should eventually wake up.
3. You shocked the yeast in some way: temperature or specific
gravity. Was it previously used for a very high gravity beer, and now
your pitching it directly to a 1.035 wort? High gravity ferments
usually aren't the healthiest for repitching, anyway.
I don't know, but perhaps one of these ideas fits your situation.
I usually save the yeast from the fermenter in much the same way as
you, and haven't had a problem, even after several months cold
storage.
Good luck!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: Keith Chamberlin <Keith.A.Chamberlin@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 13:10:40 -0400
Subject: Measures Question Answered
Steve Robinson says:
>I was reflecting on the fact that a British pint glass would hold a 16 oz.
>U.S. pint and still leave room for headspace. This made me wonder how the
>U.S. wound up using such bizarre (non-Imperial AND non-metric) units of
>liquid measure. Does anyone out there know?
Well a while back I think this was addresses, either here or a newsgroup,
and it turns out that both the US and UK had the same measure, say around
the 1700's. At some point the UK changed their measure and the US said
screw them. Now we both have abstract measures.
Just for a little extra benefit for the people wondering the difference an
imperial pint is 20UK oz and is between 19.1-19.2US oz.
Cheers,
Keith
------------------------------
From: shawn@aob.org (Shawn Steele)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 11:52:11 -0600
Subject: Re: That dreaded testing stuff
> I don't know what the dreaded problem with t*st is, but the word can,
> apparently, be included in our messages SOMETIMES. Could anyone
> clarify this trivial, yet noticeable, dilemma?
Test can appear in the body of your message anytime. Test cannot
appear by itself in the Subject: line. That's because there are a LOT
of people out there who like to send "test" messages to the HBD. There
was a time for a few days when the four letters "test" in the subject
would reject the entire message, but that changes because I failed to
realize just how common that was. So:
Subject: test is not good
Subject: HB contest is OK.
- - shawn
Digest Janitor
------------------------------
From: Bill Giffin <billg@maine.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 14:11:28 -0500
Subject: Lawn Mowing
Good morning,
Summer is here and now is the time to enjoy some good lawn mower
beer. Possible, perhaps not if you buy it in a can or a bottle, but here is
a recipe that I enjoy not just in the summer.
50% American six row
50% flaked maize
30 ibu's Saaz, or Halertau, or Tettnang . or Cascade, etc.
Original gravity 1.050
Step mash with rest at 95 F, 122F, 150 F, 168 F.
FWH with 20 grams of hops.
Boil 90 minutes with rest of the hops for 60 min.
Cool the wort to 65 F and pitch with Wyeast 1056. You know a good
liter or so starter. Ferment at 65 - 70 f primary and secondary. or lager
for the secondary at 35 F.
I kegged this rascal but it bottles well primed with about 90 grams of
cane sugar for a five gallon batch.
Bud, Miller or Coors should be so good!
Bill
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2091
****************************
