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HOMEBREW Digest #2064
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/06/08 PDT
Homebrew Digest Sunday, 9 June 1996 Number 2064
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Bad DME? (ZXRF66A@prodigy.com (MR BILL STOUGHTON))
when is a beer a beer? (jim.hilliard@circellar.com)
re: 1st wort hops, RIMS wort burning, selling HB (cdp@chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard))
"Bohemia" pilsner recipie request (kcollins@seidata.com)
spent grain uses ("Keith Royster")
Leaky Corny Kegs ("Houseman, David L TR")
This Yeild Thing..... (Joe Rolfe)
RE: MOSHER'S "The Brewer's Companion" (Kallen Jenne)
Sterilizing with microwave (BixMeister@aol.com)
New Haven (John C Schmitz)
B beer and reinheitsgebot; Guiness BITTER! ("David R. Burley")
Home Malting ("David R. Burley")
ISEC Opportunity: Fermentation Specialist (fwd) (Frank Adams)
Cost of extraction losses (Tom Messenger)
Protein rest/English pale ale malt? (cdp@chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard))
Re: B beer and reinheitsgebot; Guiness BITTER! ("Robert A. Uhl")
Re: Cost of extraction losses ("Robert A. Uhl")
Copper cooling coil (TPuskar@aol.com)
A Solution RE: Eudroa and the HBD (ritchie@wnstar.com (Clark D. Ritchie))
RE(2): Am I the only one? (gmccarthy@sisna.com (Gary McCarthy))
Thermodynamics of 15 gal. SS Pots (ritchie@wnstar.com (Clark D. Ritchie))
For Sale: All-Grain Equipment (ritchie@wnstar.com (Clark D. Ritchie))
1st batch query (Frolicking Gilbert)
Legality of Homebrew ("Eric W. & Carolyn W. Metzler")
Clorine Dioxide (Joe Rolfe)
NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESSES
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ZXRF66A@prodigy.com (MR BILL STOUGHTON)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 21:33:15, -0500
Subject: Bad DME?
- -- [ From: Bill Stoughton * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --
I've just had to throw out my third batch of beer due to contamination.
All three had a strong rancid vinegary taste, with sort of an acetone
odor. Two were ales fermented at room temperature, and one was a lager
kept at 50F. The only common denominator among them was that I used
some Munton's medium DME I bought at a local health food store clearing
out its homebrew supplies--I imagine it may had been on the shelf for
awhile. Could've the DME gone bad from age, or somehow become
contaminated? The bag was well sealed, and it wasn't caked or showed
signs of moisture.
I don't know what else could be the culprit. I've made over a half
dozen very drinkable extract and partial mash batches before this
string of bad luck. Ideas?
Bill Stoughton
South Oak Brewing
Austin, TX
ZXRF66A@prodigy.com
------------------------------
From: jim.hilliard@circellar.com
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 96 23:44:28 -0400
Subject: when is a beer a beer?
Hmmm. Don't mean to be provincial, but it seem fans of the NBC comedy Seinfeld
will recall a similar questions posed between Kramer and "Poppy" as to whether
a pizza became a pizza when it "came out of the oven", or "when you put your
hands in the dough". The whole discussion turned into a pro-abortion/pro-life
discussion, and, while I have very strong opinions on that issue, I certainly
hope that we can keep it off the homebrew list.
I for one, am with the one who said that a beer is a beer when the first
granule of yeast touches the recently cooled wort. Then it grows up, gets old,
and unless properly taken care of, dies a miserable death. Yeah, I can see how
this could devolve into a philosophical discussion, and I suppose the lines
would be roughly drawn among the pro-abortion/pro-life lines as well :-)
the Hoppy Brewer
Jim Hilliard
jhilliard@juno.com
------------------------------
From: cdp@chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 96 07:27 EDT
Subject: re: 1st wort hops, RIMS wort burning, selling HB
Bill Press posted:
>I've seen alot of discussion about first-wort hopping, lately, but I
>haven't seen anything definitive (and believe me, I've looked)
>discussing how the FWH affect bitterness
Wanting to see what the fuss was about, I tried 1 oz. of Fuggles as first
wort hop in a lite ale. No other bittering hops were added. I used 1.5 oz.
of Fuggles at flame-out minus 1 minute (not for aroma- to act as a filter
for the trub). I did detect a little hop flavor in a cooled sample before I
pitched the late addition hops. The brew is ready for the secondary now and
is (surprise!) not bitter enough. Based on previous similar brews but with
normal hop additions I'd *guess* that the bitterness contribution of FWH is
1/2 to 3/4 of what you'd expect if pitched normally. I'm going to bitter
the brew to taste with hop extract. If it goes well, hopping on the low
side and adding extract to taste may become SOP.
As always, YMMV...
============
A reply to Micheal Bell's address bounced so a reply to his ? on RIMS
heaters follows:
>I would tend to believe that it may carmalize the wort unless element
>temps were kept pretty low. The one I found was 1000 wats, adjustalbe
>from I believe 110-190F, with a watt density of 31.
The heater element I use is 1500W, about 12" long (I know, it's kinda
short...) and, if cut crosswise in the center, would cut through 4 pieces
(refered to as a folded type or low watt density). The watt density was not
speced and I'm too lazy to calc. it. I operate it wide open until the wort
temp at the supply side is >= the target temp *or* the temp at the heater
discharge is >= the target +1 or 2 degF. This low dT with a high flow rate
helps minimize any carmelization or enzyme denaturing. I've never noticed
any of the effects associated with overheating in my brews. I did pull the
heater after several mashes and noted a paper thin layer of brown stuff
which is probably burned wort tho'.
Modulating the heater voltage would be a better solution that the on-off
method I use if damaging the wort is more of a worry to ya than it is to me.
============
Gordon Baldwin posted on selling beer:
>And if the BATF agent is having a bad day you could lose your house and any
>property associated with making the beer.
Be extremely cautious even giving the appearance of selling homebrew given
some enforcement organizations' tactics and zeal. Remember Waco? Also, as
Gordon mentioned, the potiential penalties can be very severe and, if
alcohol violations are like drug violations, often leived since the
enforcement agency gets to keep the confiscated property (even if the
accused does own the property).
C.D. Pritchard cdp@chattanooga.net
------------------------------
From: kcollins@seidata.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 06:48:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: "Bohemia" pilsner recipie request
Hello everyone. Does anybody have a recipie that simulates Bohemia (a pilsner
brewed in Mexico)? I am talking about the pilsner that is 5.4% ABV, brewed
with
Saaz hops which complements the rich malt and vanilla aroma plus the firm
malty
body. I am becoming very thirsty just thinking about it. All grain recipies
preferred. Private email is OK. Thanks. Kevin
------------------------------
From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster@ponyexpress.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 10:15:26 +0500
Subject: spent grain uses
Perillo <eperillo@suffolk.lib.ny.us> asks:
> Are there any practical and economical uses for spent grain ? I've
> heard that major brewers sell it as feed for livestock. What about
> quantites that a microbrewery or even a homebrewer might have?
Many people use it in their homemade bread. In fact there is a
company in Seattle Washington that does this at the microbrew level.
They take the spent grain from Thomas Kemper, Pyramid Ales, Widmer,
Maritime Pacific Brewing Co., Hale's Ales, and Redhook Brewery and
then have different recipies for their bread based on the origins of
the grain. The sell both the final product and mixes for you to do
your self in your home bread machine.
The company is called The Spent Grain Baking Company and they have a
web page.
http://www.seanet.com/Vendors/spent/
Keith Royster - Keith.Royster@ponyexpress.com
@your.service - http://dezines.com/@your.service
Web Services - Starting at just $60 per YEAR!
Voice & Fax - (704) 663-1098
------------------------------
From: "Houseman, David L TR" <DLH1@trpo3.tr.unisys.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 96 11:06:00 EDT
Subject: Leaky Corny Kegs
I've found the easiest way to seal corny kegs (and no, don't use any
lubricants on the O-rings, that's one of the last things you want in
contact with your beer) is to boil the lid and O-ring (attached) to
sanitize and put it on the keg while still extreamly hot. The rubber
O-ring is much softer and plyable and seals very well. Use teflon
plumbers tape on the threads of the in/out values to seal those as well.
Dave Houseman
------------------------------
From: Joe Rolfe <onbc@shore.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 11:21:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: This Yeild Thing.....
watching this yeild discussion, argument for a while and as we speak
i have been involved in a little qa project for two breweries regarding
this subject.
these two breweries have been using a domestic malt 2 row pale for over
3 years. they have also seen dramatic decrease in yeild (i'll use balling
for these if you want sg mult by 4).
years ago the malt was easily yeilding 7.5 infusion and upto 8.5
for multirest. as of late they have dropped significantly to barely
7.5 for multirest and 7.25 for infusions. the two numbers are comming from
two different breweries, processes and styles. the info on the malt form
is not a factor - as we can determine with out private testing beyond
our budget.
anyway regarding the calculations you normally do and numbers you
usually get, id be interested to hear from anyone along these lines
but need to have info in a more detail format. simple recipe formulations
are easier to deal with here. i know some of the homebrew crew can get
fairly exotic in the grist bills, so keep it simple (limit to pale beers
and the like). for the grist if you know the source (MF,HB Crisp....include
that).
pale malts in #, dark malts in #
regarding the mash, pH, volume, temps, time
regarding the runoff pH, temp, time to runoff sg,balling,plato of first
wort transfered (after recirc). also the last wort
regarding sparge, treatment, pH, temp and volume
the next is kettle - this is the place where measures must be accurate
volume (adjusted to 60F) sg... of wort. insure the sample you take
is mixed well, as in larger kettles it appears to stratify enough
to screw up the readings on the extract.
if i get enough responses i will repost results.
the next bit is for the person indicating the loss on poor extractions,
i'd like to see your calculations, they seem a bit high for a 7bbl, but
hey who knows.....sorry i deleted the article you wrote;/....
well thanx in advance
later
joe
------------------------------
From: Kallen Jenne <tirado@sprynet.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 09:29:27 -0700
Subject: RE: MOSHER'S "The Brewer's Companion"
Dave in Indy Wrote in HBD 2063:
> MOSHER'S "The Brewer's Companion"
>
> I recently encountered some previously unreported changes
> in this book which occurred between the first and "updated"
> (2nd Ed?) versions. These concern hop utilization: read on
> if this is of interest to you.
> <SNIP> <SNIP> <SNIP>
> This certainly explained the much higher hoping rates my beers
> had when using my 1st Edition for the calculations. I still like
> this book as a convenient resource for a variety of brewing data.
> But I use the Tinseth formula for hoping now.
>
> Hope this helps an unsuspecting newbie or two!
I personally have encouraged every newbie I've met to run out and by this as
part of the "Homebrewer's Desk Reference" and have found it
invaluable for the clarity and purity of the information provided. It's with
me every time I brew. When I have that question in the middle
of a brew, I can find the answer there. The 7-11 of brewing info. I too
noticed high hop flavor - but I had never really had my beer tested.
When I did, my IBUs came back about 20% higher than I thought they might.
Ouch. Congrats to Mosher for correcting this error and making his
book better.
------------------------------
From: BixMeister@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 12:52:22 -0400
Subject: Sterilizing with microwave
Attention yeast gurus-Does anyone have experience using the microwave
effectively to sterilize plates? More specific can plastic disposable plates
that have been used previously or new plates open to air contamination be
sterilized using a microwave? If not is there another effective household
way of salvaging contaminated plastic disposable plates? I do have a
homemade laminar flow hood for my use.
------------------------------
From: John C Schmitz <schmitjc@musc.edu>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 12:50:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: New Haven
I'm moving to New Haven, Connecticut and was wondering were the good brew
pubs are located? I also like to find a good homebrew supply store.
TIA,
John Schmitz
(schmitjc@musc.edu)
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 08 Jun 96 13:07:12 EDT
Subject: B beer and reinheitsgebot; Guiness BITTER!
Fred Waltman in his interesting summary of his drinking experiences in Germany
comments that the US Budweiser called B beer there had on its label " malt
hops,RICE, and yeast" Maybe some of our German readers can coment on how this
is possible, or does reinheitsgebot only apply to beers brewed in Germany, but
a
foreign beer containing adjuncts are ok and can be sold in Germany? Seems a
little unfair to me if this is the case, but I'm not complaining. Can German
beers brewed in Germany for sale outside Germany contain adjuncts?
My son just came back from Europe last night (bringing me some light and some
dark Hefeweiss as a good source of fresh yeast ( and beer, of course!). What a
good son ( see what happens when you raise them right!). He said he had had
some excellent Guiness Bitter in a green can. Am I missing something, or is
this
only available in Europe. How long has Guiness been brewing a bitter? Did I
miss that in the recent discourse on the Irish pub crawl printed here?
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 08 Jun 96 13:07:15 EDT
Subject: Home Malting
Johann Haggstrom asks for comments on home malting his own home grown barley.
I have on two occasions been drawn into this area, however on neither occasion
have I grown my own.
As a comment to those of you who may try this, be very careful of your source
of
grains. Quite often grains made for planting ( and therefore will have a low
number of hard ends or unsprouted grains - an attractive idea for maltsters)
will have been treated with an antifungal agent. DO NOT USE GRAINS INTENDED
FOR PLANTING. I suggest feed stores as a good source, at least you know the
grains are edible by animals. Or if you are particularly fussy, try a health
food store, although I doubt the sprouting quality in this latter case.
Once, while living in Wales, I got a supply of ( 2 row?) barley from the dairy
farmer across the road who grew his own. I knew the source and that it hadn't
been treated. On my first attempt I steeped the grain (soaked in water) for
several days according to a schedule I had read in some ancient book in the
library. After a few days the grain began to smell a little like sauerkraut
and
bubbles were coming off the mixture. I now know it was lactobacillus. I
stopped the steep and allowed it to sprout with marginal success, much to the
amusement of the farmer who liked my beer and would watch my trials and
tribulations with a knowing smirk..
On my second attempt, I knew a lot more about the process, having read Malting
and Brewing Science. The secret to getting a good sprout ratio is to soak the
grains overnight at the beginning and thereafter don't drown these grains, as
they need oxygen to grow, but must be kept fully wetted down. Also, several
washes a day ( I did three or four) in water will keep the lactobacillus down
to
an ok level. I ended up using round plastic tubs about 40-50 cm across and
about 30 cm deep. Having two of these it was an easy matter to pour the
sprouting grain from one to the other to" turn the piece" , as the British
say.
A piece of plastic screening wire over one tub made an easy way to separate
the
water from the grain during the early steeping phases. Placing a plastic sheet
over this tub when the acrospire was about two thirds along the grain was an
easy way to kill the seedling from excess carbon dioxide, prior to drying.
I made some wind malt ( so called by the Dutch or green malt by the British)
by
drying a thin layer on a plastic sheet on the floor of the furnace room. I
dried some of this green malt at 110 deg F in my electric oven with the light
on, to make pale malt. From this dried malt I made some lager of, what I would
consider, poor quality only because the extraction rate was low and the beer
didn't have the body I wanted. If I do this in the future, I will do a lab
size
extraction, compare it with my present malt and correct the grain bill
accordingly. The color was paler than my normal lager, perhaps because of the
lower extract or perhaps because of the drying schedule. A small amount of the
wind malt in another lager ( 1 lb/5 gal) did impart a little rounder quality
to
the beer.
Johann, good luck.We are all waiting to hear how this turns out. I hope you
have
a good summer for the barley.
Keep on Brewin"
Dave Burley
------------------------------
From: Frank Adams <adamsf@netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 10:38:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: ISEC Opportunity: Fermentation Specialist (fwd)
I got the folowing message from another mailing list.
(BIZ-BIOTECH@netcom.com).
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Frank S. Adams, Ph.D. adamsf@netcom.com |
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````
Subject: ISEC Opportunity: Fermentation Specialist
I'm posting this on behalf of a friend, Mr. Dave Solow (219) 264-8950.
ISEC (International Service Executive Corps) is looking for a
person with experience in production of bakers yeast to spend a month in
Western Siberia helping a yeast factory improve its product.
ISEC covers travel for the person and spouse, and room and board during
the visit, but does not pay consulting fees.
For further information, please contact Dave Solow directly at the phone
number given above.
Rich Mateles
Candida Corporation
------------------------------
From: Tom Messenger <kmesseng@slonet.org>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 11:36:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Cost of extraction losses
Keith Chamberlin wrote in hbd #2063:
- -snip
Now, as far as the high extraction rate that micros and big equipment get,
they need to get as much sugar out of the grain as they can to turn a
profit. I calculate that for a 7 bbl system that a drop of 1ppg can account
for a loss of $200/batch of beer. So 2.5 ppg loss can be as much as
$500/batch of beer. Not good business. I won't bother putting my
calculation here but if you want to know how I figured it let me know.
- -snip
Help! I don't even have a pentium to make errors with but I'm confused.
Lemme try a few numbers....
IF
bbl = 31 gallons
"commercial" brewers get around 30 pts/lb/gal.
ale of 1.050 OG is being brewed
THEN
To make 217 gals of beer, (7bbl * 31 gal/bbl = 217gals), the brewer needs
217gals * 50pts
- --------------- = 361 lbs of malt
30 pts/lb/gal
NOW assume the brewer raises extract one point to 31 pts/lb/gal
217gals * 50pts
- --------------- = 350 lbs of malt
31 pts/lb/gal
(Higher extract efficiency = less malt needed to arrive at the same OG.)
Thus, 11 pounds LESS malt is needed by raising the extract rate by one
point. The best price I've seen for homebrewers is about $0.40/lb. I think
commercial brewers pay a lot less than this but it's a good starting point.
At this cost, the saving of 11 pounds of malt is $4.40 - or did I miss
something?
If the bbls are say, twice as large(60 vs 31 gals), then the cost is about
$8.80 saved. If the OG of the brew is higher, similar things happen but
nowhere does it seem to come out to one extract point costing $200.... But
I'm more than ready to have someone explain my math errors.
My own extraction rates are down around 25 - and I don't care. Why not? See
the above analysis. Further, squeezing the last molecule of sugar out is
likely to squeeze out the last molecule of tannin also. Plus, it takes a
lot longer. A year ago, I read that the sparge process should take about 60
to 90 minutes to get high extract rates. I did this - it seemed to work.
But I had to stand there nursing it along. Then I remembered reading
something by George Fix (I hope I have the credit right) that the best wort
is that which comes out first.
I tried this. The extract rate is lower but the beer "seems" to me to be
more flavorful. But the best benefit: sparge time is seven minutes flat. I
get out of the brewhouse about an hour and 15 minutes faster. I don't mind
the fact that my beer costs maybe another pound of malt - about half a buck.
Comments welcome.
- --------------------------------
Tom Messenger,
Los Osos, California, USA
kmesseng@slonet.org
- --------------------------------
------------------------------
From: cdp@chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 96 15:19 EDT
Subject: Protein rest/English pale ale malt?
Jim (dipalma@sky.com) posted in #2063:
>What got me into trouble was that I assumed the malt was highly modified,
>as British pale malts usually are, and used a single infusion mash, no
>protein rest at all.
Which brings up a possibly dumb question- what the downside of giving highly
modified malt a protein rest?
TIA!
C.D. Pritchard cdp@chattanooga.net
------------------------------
From: "Robert A. Uhl" <ruhl@odin.cair.du.edu>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 14:27:27 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: B beer and reinheitsgebot; Guiness BITTER!
On 8 Jun 1996, Homebrew Digest REQUEST Address Only wrote:
> Fred Waltman in his interesting summary of his drinking experiences in
Germany
> comments that the US Budweiser called B beer there had on its label " malt
> hops,RICE, and yeast" Maybe some of our German readers can coment on how
this
> is possible, or does reinheitsgebot only apply to beers brewed in Germany,
but
> a
> foreign beer containing adjuncts are ok and can be sold in Germany? Seems a
> little unfair to me if this is the case, but I'm not complaining. Can German
> beers brewed in Germany for sale outside Germany contain adjuncts?
Unfortunately, Gemrnay is part of the EU. The EU will not allow its
members to have any laws similar to the RHG. And so German beers are
no longer perfect:-( Yet another reason for the EU to be dissolved.
I remain
Yours,
Robert Uhl
Chief Programmer,
CR Systems
------------------------------
From: "Robert A. Uhl" <ruhl@odin.cair.du.edu>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 14:32:06 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Cost of extraction losses
On Sat, 8 Jun 1996, Homebrew Digest REQUEST Address Only wrote:
> bbl = 31 gallons
Actually, a barrel _should_ be 32 gallons; the liquid measurement
system works by twos (2 mouthfuls=jigger, 2 jiggers=jack, 2
jacks=gill(jill), 2 jills=cup, 2 cups=pint, 2 pints=quart, 2
quarts=pottle, 2 pottles=gallon &c). However, in America, for some
strange reason, a barrel is reputed to be 31 1/2 gals. No-one knows
why this change occurred. Very strange indeed. I remain
Yours,
Robert Uhl
Chief Programmer,
CR Systems
------------------------------
From: TPuskar@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 17:02:35 -0400
Subject: Copper cooling coil
I recently started kegging my beer. I wanted to be able to take a keg out to
the patio and serve it thru the night. I didn't want to return it to the
fridge and keep on repeating this cooling/warming cycle. I had an old
immersion chiller that had been retired when I built my cf chiller. I
adapted it with the appropriate fittings and used it as a cooling coil/jockey
box kinda thing in between the output of the keg and the tap. I immersed it
in ice and it cooled the beer very well.
Here's my question. After serving a number of beers over the evening, I left
everything set up and under pressure overnight. Around noon the following
day I refilled the contaner holding the coller with ice and poured myself the
greenest looking beer I'd had since St Paddy's day! I figured the beer
reacted with the copper cooling coils. What a mess!
I'm convinced that this arrangement has a permanent place in my brewery/tap
room, but wonder if I have to break it down and clean it every night???? Not
something I'd look forward to. Anyone else tried this? I hate to make a
coil out of stainless (Can you say Big Bucks?) or spend almost $200 for a
real cooling plate.
Comments would be appreciated.
Tom Puskar
------------------------------
From: ritchie@wnstar.com (Clark D. Ritchie)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:14:39 +0100
Subject: A Solution RE: Eudroa and the HBD
It appears that several others are also having trouble receiving large
issues of the Digest using the Freeware version of Eudora. Well, I just put
on my thinking cap and came up with a solution that (for now) appears to be
working.
Solution: Decrease the network buffer size. Why a decrease versus an
increase? I am not exactly sure. I tried it both ways. The default size
is 4096 bytes, so I initially changed mine to 30000 bytes. I then retrieved
digest #2063 (which was a fatty!), which arrived in two parts. Since that
test failed, I reverted to the [tremendously improved] documentation and
help system that came with the latest version of Eudora (when all else fails
read the ReadMe). The help system suggested a *decrease* in the network
buffer size for large messages; I changed my buffer to 10 bytes, again
retrieved digest #2063 and it arrived in one message! Problem solved.
To change the network buffer size:
In Version 1.5.2 (or earlier?), pull down the "Special" menu and select
"Settings". When the settings dialog box appears, scroll down to "Advanced
Network" and there is a text box in which you can modify the buffer.
=20
In Version 1.5.4, pull down the "Tools" menu and select "Options". When the
settings dialog box appears, scroll down to "Advanced Network" and there is
a text box in which you can modify the buffer.
BTW, I thought that I had the latest version (1.5.2) but I was wrong. The
latest Freeware version (as far as I can tell) is 1.5.4 and it can be
downloaded at: http://www.qualcomm.com/.
Finally, this is all for the Windows version and I am not sure if it is
applicable at all to the Macintrash (c'mon -- I work at Intel!) version,
which can also be downloaded at the same site.
...CDR
"Pizza is like sex. Even if it=92s bad, it=92s really kind of good." =96=
the
bumper sticker on the car parked outside my apartment.
<--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><-->
Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie@wnstar.com
World Wide Web: http://www.wnstar.com/ritchie/
------------------------------
From: gmccarthy@sisna.com (Gary McCarthy)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 15:19:47 -0600
Subject: RE(2): Am I the only one?
Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie@wnstar.com writes in HBD 2063:
> This never happened before "the switch"
Geez, over the past what three weeks I've seen dozens of posts in which
people complain about a resource that is available to you free! If you
don't like the delivery of the HBD go to the section ARCHIVES & OTHER
INFORMATION and find all the places on the internet that you can retrieve
the HBD for yourself at your convenience! I personnally use
ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer.
Now shut the hell up about your pain in getting the HBD delivered to you
and get off your a**es and get it for yourself. Nobody on the internet is
your mother!
All replies to null/idontgiveashit/
Gary McCarthy "By the way, which one's Pink?"
gmccarthy@sisna.com Pink Floyd - Have a Cigar
------------------------------
From: ritchie@wnstar.com (Clark D. Ritchie)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:51:40 +0100
Subject: Thermodynamics of 15 gal. SS Pots
I am about to take delivery on a custom built 3-vessel, 15 gallon brewing
system, in which all of the kettles are made of high quality stainless steel
(Volrath (sp?) brand kettles). My old mashing technique (ala Dave Miller)
was with a sealed wooden box that I lined with 1" of foam insulation,
aluminum foil and taped with aluminum tape. Anyhow, I was able to place my
entire 8.25 gallon enamelware kettle inside the box for conversion. The box
was *incredibly* efficient at maintaining the temperature of the mash, so
much so that with an overnight mash, I could set it at 155 (11pm) and it'd
be around 140 in the morning (9am). Pretty good!
Anyhow, with my new system, I will have everything set up on a stand and
plan to use a pump to transfer the hot liquor from the mash tun to the
boiling kettle. Because of the size of these vessels and the weight of the
mash, it will not be feasible to move the mash tun to an insulated box to
maintain the temperature.
My guess is that with large mashes (15~30 pounds), the mash ought to have
enough thermal mass to maintain a relatively steady temperature over a
period of time. However with smaller mashes (8~10 pounds), because the
ratio of surface area to volume is different, I am expecting them to cool a
lot faster.
My question: out of curiosity, does anyone have experience constructing an
insulated jacket for their mash tun? I've seen reflective, insulated
material (for water heaters) at Home Depot and, while I haven't investigated
the maximum temperature that said material can handle, am nonetheless
interested in related materials for surrounding and insulating the mash tun.
I realize that my question will be answered when I brew my first batch and
in fact, boosting the temperature of the mash will not be a difficult task
since the mash tun will reside on a dedicated burner.
Thanks! ...CDR
<--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><-->
Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie@wnstar.com
World Wide Web: http://www.wnstar.com/ritchie/
------------------------------
From: ritchie@wnstar.com (Clark D. Ritchie)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 15:15:50 +0100
Subject: For Sale: All-Grain Equipment
I hope posting a "For Sale" ad doesn't perturb anyone too much, but I really
want to move this stuff and am having no luck selling it locally.
For Sale: Mashing System
Phil's Mashing system including:
* 5 gallon bucket for sparge water
* rotating arm for sparge water
* 7 gallon lauter tun with false bottom
* all required hoses, clamps, etc.
8.25 gallon enamelware kettle
* good condition
* has lid
Insualted box (ala Dave Miller) for starch conversion
* wooden construction
* sealed with caulk
* lined with 1" of foam insulation, aluminum foil, aluminum tape
* holds mash temperatures _very_ well
Capacity of entire system is about 13lbs. of grain. This is a great way to
get into all-grain, it's easy and efficient.
Entire system: $40 (US) or best offer
Because of the rather bulky size of the equipment, shipping costs will
probably prove prohibitive. Hence, I'd prefer to sell it to someone within
driving distance (I reside in Portland, Oregon), but I am flexible.
Thanks... CDR
<--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><--><-->
Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie@wnstar.com
World Wide Web: http://www.wnstar.com/ritchie/
------------------------------
From: Frolicking Gilbert <wastelnd@cyberenet.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 20:47:34 -0400
Subject: 1st batch query
Well, I finally got around to my first batch recently. I have been =
reading this list for a while, among many other resources. I brewed a =
pilsener from a kit (Mouton's) to start...trying to guarantee decent =
results.
My problem arises in the fact that once I got everything rolling and was =
waiting for fermentation to stop, I became really busy! So busy, I =
didn't get back to bottling until today...more than five weeks after the =
boil. I phoned my local beer shop and they indicated that the yeast may =
have begun to eat one another producing an off flavor. He had me take a =
taste test. For a flat, warm beer, it tasted okay. I was concerned with =
the amount of residue floating on top.=20
I just finished bottling this batch and will wait my two weeks b4 I give =
it a try. If it comes out poorly, I'll chalk it up to a learning =
experience, but I'm wondering what your thoughts on this is. Besides the =
length of the fermentation, everything else seems *normal*.=20
__________________________________________
Frolicking Gilbert
the wasteland
www.cyberENET.net/~wastelnd
UnderNet: #wasteNET
__________________________________________
------------------------------
From: "Eric W. & Carolyn W. Metzler" <ewmetzler@telplus.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 21:14:36 -0400
Subject: Legality of Homebrew
I've gotten to June 2's HBD on this thread.
Recently I had friends over to help me brew, and one got a speeding
ticket on the way home. If he'd had enough brew to get an OUI, I'd have
felt pretty bad.
On a related theme, can any other Maine homebrewers tell me how
"Vacationland" regulates letting minors drink homebrew? Can teenagers
visiting us partake, and under what conditions?
Eric in Enfield
------------------------------
From: Joe Rolfe <onbc@shore.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 21:41:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Clorine Dioxide
anyone in the homebrewing trade (or commercial) have any info on stabilized
clorine dioxide as a sanitizer.
just read a texo article on use and other misc info. seems labatts or
molson is doing some work with it. i also know several commercila breweries
toying with it.
any comments on it (from you chem homebrewers or users).....or anyone...
just fishing.
thanx in advance
joe
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2064
****************************
