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HOMEBREW Digest #2074
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/06/18 PDT
Homebrew Digest Tuesday, 18 June 1996 Number 2074
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Puffy Extract Cans (Jeremy Yospin)
[none] (bhanson-mtc@rica.net (Ben Hanson))
Re: Filters (Nate Apkon)
Houston, we have a problem... (matthew.t.apple.1@nd.edu (Matt Apple))
Al K's Blowoff article in BT (asteinm@nyc.pipeline.com (Art Steinmetz))
RE: Flavorful low-gravity beer (George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro))
Errors-To: homebrew-error@aob.org ("Matthew A McKinstry")
Measures (Spencer W Thomas)
We Tax everything, conical fermentator . (Richard Sharp)
Counterflow (non)chillers (Regan Pallandi)
High-Temp 5/8" Hose (Kallen Jenne)
moonshine (Greg Tompkins)
Bavarian Summer drinks (paa3983@dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli))
Gott Cooler Setup ("DAVID T. PETERS GERMANY(UTC +02:00)")
First all grain attempt (Mike Kidulich)
stuck ferm., Flavor hops ("Bryan L. Gros")
world beer cup ("Bryan L. Gros")
1996 World Beer Cup Winners (shawn@aob.org (Shawn Steele))
mills/grassy/Brewer's Companion/imported yeast/iodophor/HSA/Guinness/winning (korz@pubs.ih.att.com)
Hop Extract ("David R. Burley")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jeremy Yospin <yospin@UMDNJ.EDU>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:53:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Puffy Extract Cans
>On Wed, 12 Jun 1996, Homebrew Digest REQUEST Address Only wrote:
>> The latest zymurgy says that they'll last 2-4 years, and optimally you
>> want to use them within 8 months, and i think I've had them around 8
>> months (no more than a year), and they have been stored in a room temp,
>> mostly darkened room. I expect the normal darkening associate with age,
>> but not the cans expanding 'puffing out', or deforming. Your sugestions,
>> comments, help? Are they safe to use anyway?
>
>It sounds like botulin bacteria are in it to me. But I might be wrong.
>Don't use the stuff; I don't believe that boiling will break down the
>toxin.
Actually, boiling does destroy botulism toxin (not necessarily the
spores). However, DON'T USE PUFFY CANS! Even if you destroyed the
toxin, surviving spores could make germinate in the anerobic environment
of the beer (presumably, I don't know how sensitive C. botulinum is to
alcohol). I'd complain to the company. Contamination with botulinum is
not a minor problem -- the toxin is an EXTREMELY potent neurotoxin.
Jeremy
------------------------------
From: bhanson-mtc@rica.net (Ben Hanson)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 06:47:54 -0500
Subject: [none]
Greetings,
A friend of mine recently sent me one of the more interesting brewing
gadgets I have seen for quite a while. It is a mini-chiller for taking
gravity readings of wort at a variety of temps. Instead of my usual
process of putting the hydrometer tube in the freezer for 20 minutes to
cool boiling wort to 60 degrees, you just run this contraption under tap
water for about a minute, and the copper center dissipates heat from the
sample inside. It's pretty neat, a time saver, and it also could be used
to bring lagering samples back up to 60 degrees. My friend has a web page
advertising this gizmo for the masses at:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/JanetRuhl/chiller.htm
enjoy!
Ben
************************************************************************
bhanson-mtc@rica.net
Massanutten Technical Center
325 Pleasant Valley Road
Harrisonburg VA 22801
(540) 434-5961
Providing Vocational, Technical, and Academic Education for life
************************************************************************
------------------------------
From: Nate Apkon <nmapkon@sprynet.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 04:49:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Filters
Tony:
Activated carbon filter sounds like the way to go. However, what eles
does it remove from the water?
How about ions such as Ca, Mg, SO4, Na, Cl, etc.?
Since I adjust water profile it sounds like the nly solution might be to
install a filter and then have my water tested.
Nate A.
------------------------------
From: matthew.t.apple.1@nd.edu (Matt Apple)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:14:21 -0500
Subject: Houston, we have a problem...
Help!
I made a 5-gal batch for my b-day, trying to make a Newcastle-ish kind of
brown ale.
6.6 lbs. M&F light extract
1/4 lb black patent malt
1/2 lb crystal malt
1.5 oz Fuggles (boiling - 30 min.)
Wyeast London Ale (forgot the #, 1968 or something)
I let it stay in the primary for one week and in the secondary for about 4
weeks, then put some in a 5L keg and the rest in bottles. The FG was about
1.033, but I forgot to take an OG.
The problem: it tastes like iced tea! What happened? Did I use too much
crystal malt? or not enough extract? or the wrong kind of extract? Argh! My
b-day is ruined!
Matt A.
matthew.t.apple.1@nd.edu
http://www.nd.edu/~mapple
------------------------------
From: asteinm@nyc.pipeline.com (Art Steinmetz)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:23:10 GMT
Subject: Al K's Blowoff article in BT
The latest Brewing Techniques has an article by Al Korzonas which describes
his empircal tests of to blow off, or not to blow off the krausen of
primary fermentation with ales.
The bottom line was expect 10%-15% loss of hop bittering when you blow off
but no other material differences were detectable by a taste panel or by
analysis. Very good work, IMHO. I love it when the light of the
scientific method is shed on conventional wisdom.
The big question for me is: Why did this appear in BT? At the end of the
article Al credits "Zymurgy" for funding the research!
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:07:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Flavorful low-gravity beer
In HBD 2072 Martin Wilde suggests making a high gravity beer and
diluting it to the desired low gravity after the boil in order to
achieve a relatively flavorful low gravity beer.
I think that the correct process is to dilute the wort after
fermentation, not before. The reason this works is that yeast tend to
produce more fruity flavors in a high-gravity environment, thus you
will create a beer with some interesting character. Even though you
are diluting it after fermentation, some of that character will come
through.
By fermenting a wort with a SG of >1.070 you should be able to get
plenty of character from the yeast.
Remember to boil and cool your diluting water to sterilize and
deoxygenate it. Avoid the introduction of air when diluting by
siphoning carefully and/or purging the headspace over the liquid with
CO2.
Also, your hop utilization won't be as efficient in the high-gravity
boil, so you may have to adjust your hop rates a bit.
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: "Matthew A McKinstry" <MMcKinstry@paraengr.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 15:02:53
Subject: Errors-To: homebrew-error@aob.org
Thanks to all for the abundance of knowledge and laughs from HBD. Now
for the questions...
I have been brewing extract plus specialty grain for about 1.5 years.
All grain brewing interests me but I never wanted to spend the money
(no, it had NOTHING to do with the spouse). Then, after finding a
hardware store closing down with 1/2 off everything, purchasing all
connections and tubing (3/8" X 25') for a chiller for $20, and putting
it together in about 30 min., I figured I was pretty close to having
the equipment for all grain brewing. Then I saw a 5 gallon Gott I
could afford and thought I could make a copper tubing manifold pretty
cheap and be all set. I do like the RIMS concept and expect my system
to eventually move in that direction so the Gott would stay with me.
However, I have some concerns:
1. Should I hold out for a 10 gallon cooler? What kind of grain
capacity can I expect with the 5? (I brew Pale Ales, Browns, Porters,
and Wheats almost exclusively. I'm not much into BIG beers.)
2. How difficult would it be to do multi-step mashes in the 5 gallon?
I probably will do mostly single step but I want the option to do
more. Is it as simple as starting with a thick mash and adding more
hot water or drawing off some liquid and heating?
3. For the first temperature rest do you overshoot by a little to
account for the energy absorbed by the cooler? If so, by how much?
4. How much can I expect to pay for the 10 gallon (ball park figure,
I realize there are a lot of variables here)? The store I saw the 5
gallon in didn't have 10 gallon coolers.
Anything else you experienced Gott users can add will be appreciated.
Private e-mail OK.
Thanks a bunch.
Matt Mckinstry
Houston, TX
------------------------------
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 17:19:58 -0400
Subject: Measures
>From the "Renfewshire CAMRA Publications" web site
(in http://chaos100.paisley.ac.uk/%7Ecis/camra/art2.html):
Cask Sizes and Measures
Name Size Comments
Butt 108 Gallons (No longer used)
Puncheon 72 Gallons (no longer used)
Hogshead 54 Gallons (now rarely used)
Barrel 36 Gallons
Kilderkin or kiln 18 Gallons
Firkin 9 Gallons
Pin 4.5 Gallons (now rarely used)
Gallon 8 Pints
Yard of Ale 2.25 - 4.5 Pints (not standard)
Quart 2 Pints (a quarter gallon)
Pint 20 Fluid ounces
Nip .3 Pint (a common bottle size)
Gill 5 Fluid ounces (a quarter pint)
One has to assume that these are UK measures.
Factors of 2 abound, except in the transition from Gallon to Pin.
------------------------------
From: Richard Sharp <dsharp@ionet.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:24:32 -0500
Subject: We Tax everything, conical fermentator .
Hello all ,
In reading the threads on taxation I have to put my 2 cents (plus tax) in
here . I live in Oklahoma City and we have a tax rate of almost 9% (8.375)
and that is on EVERYTHING . We tax all foods , all prescription drug medical
supplies etc , have a high income tax , property tax , and even tax illegal
drug . What was that.....a tax on illegal drugs ?.....yup . To sell illegal
drugs a person must have a tax stamp for the particular type of illegal
drugs sold . So now if a person is busted on drug selling charges and do not
have a tax stamp they are also charged with tax evasion .
Now onto my problem . A few weeks ago while browsing a local "flea market"
what to my wondering eyes should appear but a stainless steel conical
fermentator . Beautifully hand made from extra heavy gage stainless steel
with a tripod leg system , the cover has a half hinged cover with a 2" vent
fitting on the non movable half of the cover . At this point I now know that
I did understand what I was doing when I made my first batch of beer with
this unit . My understanding was that with the steep conical bottom the
spent yeast and trub would settle out . To start out the initial
fermentation went fantastic and the aroma was heavenly . After 3 days my ale
was ready to transfer to the secondary fermentator . Opening the valve on
the bottom I drained off about a quart of thick material before the liquid
cleared . I attached the transfer tube and started to fill the secondary .
However as soon as the flow started , it turned thick again . Once again I
drained off the liquid until it cleared . This went on time and time again .
The result was about 3 gallons of light brown liquid in the fermentator that
looked like pancake batter , and 2 gallons of the same thing going down the
drain . Now it is obvious that I did not how to use the conical fermentator
. The conical fermentator now sits in the garden with flowers in it , and I
have returned to my flat bottom fermentator that give me great beer with
very little waste . Where did I go wrong .
Best ,
Dick Sharp
dsharp@ionet.net
PGP2.6 KeyId 39EB1C6D
------------------------------
From: Regan Pallandi <reganp@iris.bio.uts.EDU.AU>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:14:44 +1200 (EST)
Subject: Counterflow (non)chillers
Hello all - I have built myself a CF chiller (details - 10 metres of 9 mm
ID copper, jacketed in 16 mm tubing) and have used it twice with fairly
ordinary results. It has taken 20-25 minutes for the wort to pass through
the system, and, despite the cooling water being at around 5 deg C, the
wort passes into the fermenter at about 15 deg C. Does anyone have any
experience/ideas? IMCFCU? (is my CF chiller useless?) Thanks.
Regan in Sydney
------------------------------
From: Kallen Jenne <tirado@sprynet.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:31:42 -0700
Subject: High-Temp 5/8" Hose
Is anyone interested in 5/8" ID High-Temp, Food-Grade hose? I'm trying
to put an order together (I need about 12 feet for my wort pump) and
would like to buy 50' as the price drops about 30%. If interested
e-mail me at the address below.
Kallen
tirado@sprynet.com
------------------------------
From: Greg Tompkins <greg@bpdigital.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 21:05:48 -0700
Subject: moonshine
Does anyone have or know where I can find recipies on how to make
moonshine? (or is this considered a "distilled spirit")?
My grandfather has misplaced his recipie and I'm trying to track down
one for him. THANKS!
- --GREG--
------------------------------
From: paa3983@dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 08:04:14 edt
Subject: Bavarian Summer drinks
HBDers,
Having just returned from spending 3 weeks in Southern Germany (Bavaria)
I've discovered a couple unique customs that I'd like to share with y'all.
For those germans who wish to cut back on the amount of alchohol they consume
or prefer a more thirst-quenching drink in these warmer months, they have two
kinds
of drinks.
One is called a Radler (pronounced rodla) which is half Export type beer and
half
white lemonade. The other is called Russ (sounds like loose) which is half
weizen
either kristal or hefe and half white lemonade.
Both are very refreshing and go well in the outdoor beeer gardens. They even
have
commercial varieties which are premixed in the bottle. The german lemonade is
not quite like our lemonade, but more like sprite or 7-UP, so if you try this,
I'd
experiment with beverages along those lines.
Mike in Cherry Hill NJ
------------------------------
From: "DAVID T. PETERS GERMANY(UTC +02:00)" <d_peters@e-mail.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 08:53:15 EDT
Subject: Gott Cooler Setup
Greetings Homebrewing World.
I have just returned to Germany with my 10 gallon Gott, Phil's Phalse Bottom
and Sparge Arm. I had little time to get extras and will have to complete
the modifications in Germany.
I have looked at various archives and noted the Bung replacement and was
wondering what other modifications should be made.
Is there a Gott faq any where?
Did I buy the wrong Phil's Phalse Bottom? I put it in the cooler and it is
smaller than the inside diameter of the cooler. How do I make up the
difference?
TIA.
REGARDS, DAVID T. PETERS E-MAIL: D_PETERS@E-MAIL.COM
CW170 NA BODY CONSTRUCTION LEADER, VEHICLE OPERATIONS
FORD OF GERMANY, MERKENICH MAIL LOCATION: D-ME/MF-21
PHONE: 9 1 70-37791 FAX: 9 1 70-31635
------------------------------
From: Mike Kidulich <mjkid@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:39:21 -0400
Subject: First all grain attempt
Greetings,
I am preparing to embark upon my first all-grain effort. I have a CF
wort chiller and a 10 gal SS kettle. I just ordered a grain mill and an
Easymasher for my kettle. My kettle is a wide, low style instead of the
tall, narrow type. (The kettle is 16 in. wide). I realize this will give
me a shallow grain bed. How will this affect my efficiency? Also, what
would be a good sparge setup for a kettle this wide? The Phil's sparger
isn't wide enough to cover the grain bed. Any suggestions?
- --
Mike Kidulich
mjkid@ix.netcom.com mjk@rfc.comm.harris.com
DNRC Minister of Home Brewing, Relaxation, and Really Cool Toys
Holder of Previous Knowledge O-
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 08:55:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: stuck ferm., Flavor hops
Domenick wondered how to re-start a beer that seemed to finish at 1.02.
Could it be that it was really done? Would the mash schedule combined
with a seemingly unattenuative yeast only give you 1.02? I guess you
probably ruled that out already. How about stirring to rouse the yeast
without aerating? How flocculant is it?
*****
Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m@galen.med.virginia.edu> writes:
>Well, not that I would not drink another Pale Ale brewed with
>cascade but I've found lately most of my Pale Ales have been
>brewed with Pearl or Mt.Hood bittering and Cascade for flavor and
>aroma....Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions on other hop
>combinations for Ales, pale or other wise.
You could try the english standard: Kent Goldings. Or the
other noble hops, Hallertauer (which your Mt. Hoods should
resemble) or Saaz. While not "authentic", Saaz in an IPA might
be a great beer. Also, some brewers are pushing the new
Columbus hops for bittering and flavor. And try the new
Ultra hops and tell us what they're like.
Gee, all those great hops...I feel like brewing tonight!
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:59:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: world beer cup
Just had a few comments about the world beer cup.
First, congratulations to Rob. Silver for barleywine.
Second, seems like a lot of beers that we consider "defining the style"
weren't listed. No mention of Pilsner Urquell, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale,
Anchor Steam, Pete's Wicked Ale, and even Salvator. Either they
didn't win, or they didn't enter. What does it mean to make a better
bohemian pilsner than PU? Can PU be out of style? Also, no german
beers won for Kolsh, Alt, or any of the four wheat styles.
Third, some funny names. Augsburger Doppelbock won a bronze
for bock, not doppelbock. And Stovepipe Porter won a bronze for
European dark lager. Lager? I guess these are marketing names and
the beers were entered in the appropriate category.
It's not always clear where the beers were brewed. You get things like
Dos Equis Amber Lager
LaBatt USA/Cerveceria Cuauhtemac, Darien CT.
Is this brewed in the US by LaBatt? Is it brewed in Mexico and imported
by LaBatt? I'd go with the former, but there's
St. Bernardus Tripel
Brouerij St. Bernarndis/Merchant du Vin Corp, Seattle WA
I assume this is a Belgian beer imported by Merchant du Vin.
American beers certainly dominated, which indicates that there are
a lot of diverse and quality beers being brewed here. Great Britain was
almost shut out, as was Germany. I'm sure this has to do with shipping
problems. They should do next year's competition in Europe and
see how the brews stack up.
Well, just my comments. I like this idea better than the GABF, which
has boiled down to winning ribbons for marketing purposes. But if
the best beers aren't entered, then the results don't mean as much.
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: shawn@aob.org (Shawn Steele)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:33:27 -0600
Subject: 1996 World Beer Cup Winners
The 1996 World Beer Cup winners list is available from info@aob.org by
sending mail to info@aob.org and including the key word "WBC96WIN" in
the body of your message.
- - shawn
Shawn Steele
Webmaster
Association of Brewers
------------------------------
From: korz@pubs.ih.att.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 16:23:52 CDT
Subject: mills/grassy/Brewer's Companion/imported yeast/iodophor/HSA/Guinness/winning
Well, here are some more dated topics thanks to two conferences on consecutive
weeks. Sorry about the three posts in one digest. I emailed them on three
different days -- I don't know why they showed up in reverse order in one
HBD.
Dave writes:
>It worked, but very poorly, since the grains wouldn't feed into the nip
>without my forcing them in there. I was puzzled until recently, when I saw an
>Italian three roll flour mill , SS construction, well built, in an HB shop.
>This mill is versatile and it is possible to use only two rolls and get
nearly
>perfect crushed malt as well as other grains.
I saw one of those and I too bought one. I tried it on some malt and the
result was:
1. very slow throughput, and
2. splintered husks.
You see, the grooves on this mill (Marga Mulina or Atlas, I believe) face
opposite directions and are diagonal. The result is that every grain
gets twisted quite severely as it is being pulled through. To make this
into a mill that splinters the husks less, you need to add longitudinal
(the long way) grooves so that the grain is pulled through "straight."
This is what Jay Hersh has reported. I simply retired my mill to making
bread and bought a JSP MaltMill.
***
Chuck writes:
>I to quit dry hopping after I experienced a "grassy"flavor in my beers, but I
>have always assumed that it was due to a low AA rating of The Cascade hops
>that I have bought. I have used MANY oz's of Cascades because the average AA
>rating has never been above 4.2 or so I went on the "more is better" routine.
>I see in alot of these post's that you folks have access ,to a lot higher AA
>rating than I find in the local brew shops,so if any of you could e-mail me
>where you find such high AA Cascades, it would do an old brewer good. Hell
>your Cascades @5.8 AA are higher than the Centennials that I use now.(5.7
AA).
Hop aroma comes from the hop oils and not the alpha acids. There may be
some correlation between the %AA of a particular crop year and the oil content
but then again, not all the compounds in the hop oil are desirable. In my
opinion, based upon conversations with Dr. Alfred Haunold, you should not be
basing your dryhopping (or finish hopping for that matter) strictly on either
the %AA or the %oil. As for those Cascades, they vary from year to year.
Two years ago the 1/4 bale of whole Cascades I got from HopUnion were rated
at 7.4%!!!
***
Kallen writes:
>I personally have encouraged every newbie I've met to run out and by this
>[Mosher's Brewer's Companion] as part of the "Homebrewer's Desk Reference"
>and have found it invaluable for the clarity and purity of the information
>provided.
I haven't seen the 2nd edition but there were quite a few errors besides
the hop calculations in the 1st edition. Two that come immediately to mind
are the IBUs for Altbiers and that carbonate does not increase pH. I certainly
hope that they fixed those too in the second edition. Anybody know?
***
Dave writes:
>My son just came back from Europe last night (bringing me some light and some
>dark Hefeweiss as a good source of fresh yeast ( and beer, of course!). What
a
Most Weizens are filtered and then repitched with lager yeast at bottling,
so the yeast in the bottle is rarely the fermentation yeast. Schneider Weiss
is one noteable exception, but the fact is that most Weizens in Germany are
made with either W68 or W66 which are available from Wyeast, The Yeast
Culture Kit Company, Yeast Lab and several other suppliers.
***
Dion writes:
>A friend of mine who owns a microbrewery is using Oxine and he really
>likes the no-rinse 5ppm final rinse for his equipment. He notes that
>with iodophor, the no-rinse concentration affects the flavor of the
>beer, but the oxine does not.
At what concentration was he using the iodophor? While I never use my
mouth to start siphoning beer, I often use it to start siphoning 12.5
ppm (even 25 ppm) iodophor and have gotten a mouthfull several times.
I rinced with water immediately just in case, but did not notice a
particularly strong or unpleasant flavour. As for aroma, I believe that
diluted iodophor smells mildly fruity -- that's about it. I am quite
certain that a few tablespoons will not affect the flavour or aroma of
5 gallons of beer.
***
Denis writes:
>Well, first of all it depends on how you transfer your hot wort from the
>kettle to the primary. If you just dump and splash it, you risk developing
>metalic tastes in your beer from what's is called HSA (hot side aeration).
I agree that splashing hot wort will give you hot-side aeration, but don't
agree that metallic tastes are the result. I feel that HSA results initially
in sherry-like flavours (like Harvey's Bristol Cream) or nutty flavours. In
the long run, the beer gets stale, papery or wet-cardboard aromas. The only
metallic taste I ever got was from over-dryhopping with Willamette in the
keg.
***
DL writes:
>Second would be advice from anyone that's done a home-
>cobbled nitrogen regulator setup. As I understand, US
>bars that are serving Guinness under nitrogen are doing
>a high-p.s.i. (70p.s.i.g.?) system, since that much
>pressure is needed to get the nitrogen to dissolve into
>solution (compared to the 8-12p.s.i.g. range needed for
>similar solubility with CO2). Then, there's a mechanism
>at the tap they fiddle with that seems to be acting as
>another pressure drop to avoid Guinness geysers.
Nitrogen is virtually insoluble which is why it is used to dispense Guinness
and wine. The high pressures used in Guinness mixed-gass dispensing systems
is not to get the N2 into solution, but rather to produce a lot of turbulence
inside the faucet. It is meant to emulate the effect of handpumps with
sparklers (a sort of constriction device, *not* coincidentally like the
perforated disk inside the Guinness faucet). Just as Rob explained, only
the CO2 portion of the mixed gas (CO2/N2) goes into solution. You can buy
various proportions of CO2/N2 from your beverage gas supplier. If you have
30/70 CO2/N2, you can get the equivalent of 12psi of CO2 with 40psi of the
mixed gas (40psi * 0.30 = 12 psi). If you want to serve a Guinness in the
most traditional sense, you can simply borrow a handpump or ask your
liquor store to get "A Guinness faucet, a Guinness tap, hoses and a tank of
mixed gas" from their Guinness distributor for you to rent along with a
keg of Guinness. They probably will not understand but the Guinness
distributor will and get them the right stuff.
***
Dave, after reading the AHA winning recipes, writes about all the variables
he seems to associate with prize-winning beer:
secondaries,
temps below 72F,
glass fermenters, and
all-grain.
He then asks:
> Being a beginning brewer who is getting ready to do an
>extract-plus-steeped-specialty-malts brew in a single-stage plastic
>fermenter at a fermentation temperature of 72-79F, should this be telling
>me something?
Many have posted that keeping the temps below 72F will make the biggest
difference regarding this list. I agree 100%. My main reason for posting
is to add my support for what Russell said, namely that it's not necessarily
the methods that assured these recipes their winning status. The winners of
competitions are more likely to be advanced brewers than beginners and these
methods are more common among advanced brewers. With some styles it is
difficult to make a prize winner unless you do all-grain. American Light
Lagers are an obvious example -- it's difficult to get it light enough in
colour regardless of any other flavour factors. Using fresh extract, you
can make prize-winning beers even with single-stage, plastic fermenters.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korzonas@bell-labs.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 18 Jun 96 13:14:31 EDT
Subject: Hop Extract
Brewsters:
I have some old whole cone hops which are taking up too much room in the
fridge
now that lagering time is here.
I would like to convert them to a hop extract for use as bittering hops. Any
suggestions on how to go about this? Any references?
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2074
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