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HOMEBREW Digest #2044
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/05/24 PDT
Homebrew Digest Thursday, 23 May 1996 Number 2044
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
carbonation in keg (fwd) (Paul - McDonald)
Surplus Center - wrong phone number (Marty Tippin)
immersion chiller summary (Gregory King)
barrier bags (Meisner Wallie MSM GRPP US)
Raspberry / Fruit Tips? (Marty Tippin)
Who's a subscriber/Responder/Pub time (pbabcock.ford@e-mail.com)
rye, counterpressure bottle fillers ("Bryan L. Gros")
A new pre-chiller idea (Mike Spinelli)
Re: calibrating Hunter temperature controller (Jim Dipalma)
Yeast question... (Robert Servranckx)
Vacuum Sealers (Derek Lyons)
Milling (Jim Liddil)
1996 Buzz-Off 2nd Posting ("Houseman, David L TR")
1996 Small & Tiny results (at last!) (Spencer W Thomas)
re:sheperd neame (Marc Hugentobler)
RE: Gas leaks (John Wilkinson)
More Foam Finds (KennyEddy@aol.com)
Attenuation or Loss of Mass? (Michael Higuchi)
Info for Newbies ("ADAIR, BENTON E.")
Brewery wish list ("William G. Rucker")
Beer in Chicago (Mark Worwetz)
Small Bottles (Chuck Volle)
Ants in the Air-Lock (krkoupa@ccmail2.pacbell.com)
Hmmmmm! Grain Mills? (Scott Abene)
HELP: Water filters? Water treatment? (Bill Press)
The Move (Shawn Steele)
1996 Mazer Cup ("Daniel S. McConnell")
Keeping the hose on your chiller ("PAUL K. ANDERSON")
AHA NHC Bashing (Fred Hardy)
Moving! ("Nathan L. Kanous II")
Coopers Sparkling Ale (Andy Walsh)
Duvel clones (Andy Walsh)
hydrometer readings (texan@mindspring.com (James and Tamara Williams))
tea.. serious brew, heart of the hops (Tim Wort)
Re: Lagering refrigerator (cerevis@mcs.net (Christopher Weirup))
Keg Beer lines and Carbonator (apmcgregor@nmaa.org (Art McGregor))
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Paul - McDonald <pzm@rfc.comm.harris.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 07:54:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: carbonation in keg (fwd)
I have just built a counter flow bottle filler and I was wondering if
anyone had any info on how much carbonation I should have so that the
beer comes out ok in the bottle. I have a gauge that fits my keg so I
can control the amount of co2 build up. (I was planning on conditioning
the beer naturally.)
Thanks- paul mcdonald
------------------------------
From: Marty Tippin <martyt@sky.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 07:05:12 -0500
Subject: Surplus Center - wrong phone number
I mistyped the phone number for Surplus Center in my posting yesterday - the
correct number is:
(800) 488-3407
- -Marty
martyt@sky.net
http://www.sky.net/~martyt - Marty's Homebrew Gadgets Page
------------------------------
From: Gregory King <GKING@arserrc.gov>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 15:30:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: immersion chiller summary
Hello HBDfolk,
Here is a summary of the replies I received regarding a question I posted
last week about the optimal dimensions for an immersion chiller. The original
question was:
>I am going to build an immersion chiller, and would like to get your ideas
>(or hard data if you have it) regarding the best size of copper tubing to
>use (apologies if this is a topic that has been beaten to death at an earlier
>time).
>
>The 3/8" O.D. and 1/2" O.D. tubing seem to be popular choices. I'm considering
>the narrower 1/4" O.D. tubing because the surface-to-volume ratio is greater
>for narrower tubing than it is for wider tubing (for a given volume of water).
>My thinking is that in the narrower tubing more of the water will come into
>contact with the hot copper surface, and more heat will be transferred to the
>water.
>
>Of course theory is one thing, and reality is sometimes another thing. How do
>your real-life experiences correspond with this idea?
I mentioned only tubing diameter, and several respondents brought up two
other important factors: length and throughput. There is a much higher
resistance to flow in the 1/4" tubing compared to 3/8" or 1/2" tubing, so a
higher pressure is required to achieve the same throughput in 1/4" tubing.
This means all the fittings (i.e. hose clamps, etc.) have to withstand this
higher pressure also.
To get the same volume of water flowing through chillers with different
tubing diameters, the chiller with the narrower tubing must be longer.
The relationship is inversely proportional to the square of the tubing
diameters. For example, 3/8" tubing is 1.5 times wider than 1/4" tubing,
so the length of the 1/4" tubing chiller must be 1.5*1.5 = 2.25 times
longer than the 3/8" tubing chiller to hold the same volume of water.
In constructing an immersion chiller, the tubing is most commonly wound
around a cylindrical object like a paint can to produce a coil that looks
like a bed spring. Three alternatives to this configuration were mentioned:
1) Wind the tubing into a tighter coil (2.5" diameter) to produce a chilling
"wand". The wort is then manually stirred with the wand.
2) Wind the tubing into a tighter inner coil surrounded by an outer coil.
3) Wind the tubing into a 2-dimensional spiral, and then rig it so that
the chiller is suspended (flat) about 1-2" from the top of the hot wort.
This arrangement apparently creates a convection current within the
wort, thus reducing (or eliminating) the need to stir/agitate the wort
while it's cooling.
Recap:
The consensus was that a good immersion chiller can be made from 1/4", 3/8"
or 1/2" tubing, keeping in mind that chillers made with narrower tubing
should be longer than those made with wider tubing, with fittings that must
be able to withstand higher pressures.
Also, when comparing two chillers with equal diameter tubing but different
lengths, the longer chiller is better.
Thanks to all who replied!
Greg King
gking@arserrc.gov
------------------------------
From: Meisner Wallie MSM GRPP US <wallie.meisner@usgr.mhs.ciba.com>
Date: 22 May 1996 12:51:00 +0000
Subject: barrier bags
My 2 cents on O2 barrier bags...Barrier bags are typically more than one
layer either colaminated or coextruded. They ALL transmit oxygen, CO2, etc,
but some at slower rates than others. "Baggie" (even heat-sealed) are
relative window screens when it comes to keeping gasses in or out. The
inside of barrier bags is typically heat-sealable and the outside not.
Because of this you can seal some barrier bags very well with an iron (yes,
like you iron clothes with). Don't try it with a "baggie" though, these are
one material (polyethylene) all the way through and will seal instantly TO
your iron. I've been sealing bags that have a zipper about 5/8" down from
the top so I can seal the bag hermetically with an iron above the zipper and
it stays sealed 'rill I tear the seal off. Then I still have the zipper to
open and close the bag with. Some zippers do have pin-holes at the ends but
these zippers are bonded tight all the way to the ends with no pin-holes. If
anyone's interested in trying out "my" bags, send me a SASE and I'll send
you a couple.
Wallie Meisner
Packaging Engineer
(believe it or not)
Greensboro, NC
****************************************************************************
*****************************************************************
You've GOT to check out Pat Babcock's Homebrew Flea Market - it's open
right now
****************************************************************************
*******************************************************************
------------------------------
From: Marty Tippin <martyt@sky.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 07:55:14 -0500
Subject: Raspberry / Fruit Tips?
I'm planning a 10 gallon batch of wheat beer this weekend and want to make a
raspberry wheat out of half of it (I use 2 fermenters...)
Looking for tips on how much fruit to use and how best to use it:
- - I've heard 1 lb per gal? More? less?
- - Add to the Primary or Secondary? How long?
- - Steep or just dump 'em in? How to steep?
- - Frozen, Fresh, Concentrate or Extract?
E-mail is fine; I'll post a summary.
Thanks!
- -Marty
martyt@sky.net
http://www.sky.net/~martyt - Marty's Homebrew Gadgets page
------------------------------
From: pbabcock.ford@e-mail.com
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 08:55:04 EDT
Subject: Who's a subscriber/Responder/Pub time
Pat Babcock Internet: pbabcock.ford@e-mail.com
Bronco Plant Vehicle Team - Body Construction Assembly Engineer
Subject: Who's a subscriber/Responder/Pub time
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
> On precluding posts from "non-subscribers"...
Who is a subscriber and who's not?!? Fess up, now! I guess the fifty or so
people to whom I distribute the digest through our company e-mail system
aren't subscribers, hey? Our situation is not unique, either. My vote? Leave
well enough alone. When we try to act like the US governmnet and legislate
away a problem, we usually find we've created ten more in its place.
> On the automagical responder...
Uh, oh! What happened to my ability to cancel a post? Hope to see this puppy
come back...
> On the time of publication of the HBD...
I know it's yet early, but will the Digest always publish at noon (eastern)?
My coffee is really cold by then...
(I know: Wah, wah, wah...)
See ya!
Pat Babcock Canton, MI pbabcock@oeonline.com
http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html
------------------------------
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 09:10:33 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: rye, counterpressure bottle fillers
First of all, Russell Mast says:
>> I suggest that the HBD software be modified so that non-subscribers
>> cannot post.
>
>I was thinking the same thing. It's one thing when someone issues a
>half-shameless plug for their homebrew store or brewing-related product,
>but totally non-beer related bullshit, particuarlarly a long SPAM like
>this, is way outta line
I vote for this too. Limiting who can post in this way doesn't prohibit
other people from downloading and reading the HBD. Hell, it's posted
to rec.crafts.brewing every day.
On a similar note:
>From: "Decker, Robin E." <robind@rmtgvl.rmtinc.com>:
>This ties in neatly (IMO) with the subject of disclaimers.....KNOCK IT OFF
>ALREADY!!! Its the silliest thing I've ever seen...a recommendation, or a
>glowing report from a customer is just that.
I agree.
- ------------
About rye, is the stuff generally sold in brewing supply stores malted rye
or unmalted rye? Or does it depend? I assume rye flakes are unmalted.
- -----------
Now my real question.
Does anyone have any comments about the Zymurgy road test of
counterpressure bottle fillers from last summer or so? Anyone want to
really recommend the one they use?
One thing I didn't understand in the article is the air reports. They
expressed air as a percentage, + or -, of the baseline, which was 2 ml.
The "worst case" bottle filler was just filling a bottle from the picnic
tap, which causes a lot of CO2 loss but also adds air. The test
results on the beer were -30% air. Why minus? I read this as 30%
less air than the 2 ml. baseline. This can't be right.
Although I don't know the numbers, I have to assume that minus is
bad and plus is good. The expensive fillers all come out on the plus
side.
The one filler I've seen in operation, a homeade job, had a connector
on the pressure release valve so tubing could be attached. You will
almost always get some foaming as you fill a bottle, so you might want
to let some of that foam escape through the pressure release valve
and into a jar or bucket. Will all the fillers described allow this, or
will you get into trouble if more than just gas escapes through the
pressure release valve.
Based on the article, I'm leaning towards the cheaper Benjamin
Machine product or the Braukunst.
- Bryan
grosbl@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
From: Mike Spinelli <paa3983@dpsc.dla.mil>
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 10:04:31 edt
Subject: A new pre-chiller idea
HBDers,
With the weather heating up 'round here, I'm breaking out the small pre-chiller
copper coil which I usually submerge in ice water _prior _ to the water going
into the large chiller inside the keg. In the past summers, this technique
worked
pretty well.
Well the other day as I was chillin' down a brew I got to thinkin'. Last year I
came up with
this insane idea of making a micro-chiller out of 1/4" copper to fit inside a
2000ml
Ehrlemeyer flask to chill down my starter worts. It's about the size of a
Philly cheesesteak
(local plug). I attached a compression type 1/2"
hose barb to the chiller ends so I could hook it up to a hose attached to my
kitchen
sink. I tried it once and that was it. Too long to cool and too much trouble.
I now just
boil the 1/2 gallon starter wort in a 5 gallon pot and cool in the sink.
So here's my idea to make good use of that micro-chiller. purge all the water
out of it,
stick it in a large plastic cup or mug, fill mug with water, then stick in
freezer. the water
will freeze with the chiller submerged. When you're ready to chill down, just
take the micro-chiller out of the freezer and hook it up to the main chiller.
All the water passing thru
should be close to freezing. It eliminates the bulky pre-chiller and the use of
tons of ice.
I'm off to Bavaria for 3 weeks on the 22nd, so when I get back and I still have
some brain
cells left and I _still_ want to look at beer, I'll give the micro-chiller a
test run.
Mike in Cherry Hill NJ
------------------------------
From: Jim Dipalma <dipalma@sky.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 10:21:21 EDT
Subject: Re: calibrating Hunter temperature controller
Hi All,
In HBD #2042, Steven Klafka writes:
>I have been using a Hunter air conditioner thermostat to control the
>temperature of my chest freezer for several years. The thermostat has
>apparently lost much of its accuracy. It's digital readout is set at 50F
>but a dial probe thermometer, located next to the thermostat temperature
>probe, reads 33F.
>Has anyone had any similar experiences? Can the temperature probe on the
>Hunter thermostat be calibrated,
No, there is no way to calibrate it. However, the problem you describe is
fairly common. I own three Hunter airstats, and they have all displayed this
behavior at one point.
What you need to do is replace the battery in the unit (size AA I think).
Press the very small and very recessed RESET button (you'll need something
like a straightened paper clip), and re-program it. Works every time.
Cheers,
Jim dipalma@sky.com
------------------------------
From: Robert Servranckx <Robert_Ser@ceo.sts-systems.ca>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 17:16:59 -0700
Subject: Yeast question...
Greetings!
A question for the brewing collective... A friend of mine brewed this
past weekend. The yeast he used was a new pack of WYeast London Ale yeast
that had been stepped up to about 2 cups. The picthing temperature of
the wort was about 77F, and the surprisingly warm weather (spring has
*finally* arrived in Montreal!) kept it a that temperature for the
remainder of the fermentation period... 48 hours after pitching, the SG
was 1.010! There will undoubtedly be some fruity notes in this brew, but
his/my real question is whether the yeast can be safely re-used? The
intention was to re-pitch the yeast in a gallon of wort, bottle the
yeasty beer and keep it refrigerated for future use...
Can you guys tell me whether the fact that the fermentation was a wee bit
too warm, and that it finished soooo fast can/will affect future batches
of beer made with this yeast? Is this yeast still good, or is it likely
to have mutated?
Thank in advance for the info...
Rob in Montreal
Robert_Ser@ceo.sts-systems.ca
------------------------------
From: Derek Lyons <elde@hurricane.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 07:14:54 -0700
Subject: Vacuum Sealers
>Date: 19 May 96 14:23:25 EDT
>From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717@CompuServe.COM>
>Subject: storing hops
>
>
>I realize the inherent shortcomings of zip lock bags: they probably leak
>O2 through the zipper. My other option is to buy a vacuum heat sealer.
>I checked the local warehouse retailer and found one for $175 (Foodsaver
>brand).
>
>This question has been posted before but I saw few replies: Does anyone
>know of a source for zip lock O2 barrier bags OR know of a decent
>vacuum-heat sealer that costs less than the above mentioned model?
>
Dazey (Of Seal-A-Meal fame) makes one that sells for $50.00US. It works
pretty good, but lacks some of the bells 'n whistles of the FoodSaver unit.
(913)-782-7500 is the phone number for Customer Service.
Derek L.
------------------------------
From: Jim Liddil <JLIDDIL@azcc.arizona.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 7:39:17 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Milling
With all this discussion of milling hasn't anyone out there read the new Stout
book and seen that guiness uses a hammer mill? These types of mills crush the
whole kernel husk and all to dust.
Jim Liddil
http://radon.gas.uug.arizona.edu:80/~jliddil/
------------------------------
From: "Houseman, David L TR" <DLH1@trpo3.tr.unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 10:41:00 EDT
Subject: 1996 Buzz-Off 2nd Posting
For those that have already contacted me via EMAIL, the competition packages
were mailed on May 21st, somewhat late due to printing problems. For those
that what more a competition package in addition to the information here,
please contact me and I'll provide one via snail mail.
American Homebrewers Association and BJCP Sanctioned Competition
Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists Present
The Third Annual
BUZZ-OFF
Sunday, June 30, 1996, 10:00 AM
Victory Brewing Company
420 Acorn Lane
Downingtown, PA
Location/Sponsors
This year s competition will be sponsored by Beer Unlimited, BUZZ, the
Victory Brewing Company and other local sponsors.. The event will be open
to the public as Victory Brewing Company is a brewpub and microbrewery. The
food and beer are excellent. The awards ceremony will follow the
competition.
Eligibility
The 1996 Buzz-Off Homebrew Competition is open to all non-commercial
home-produced beers.
Enter as often as you wish. Enter as many categories as you wish.
Categories
The 1996 BUZZ-Off will judge beer, mead, and cider styles recognized by the
American Homebrewers
Association and the BJCP. The ususal 1996 AHA categories and subcategories
will be used. All entries must indicate category, subcategory, and style
description. Sake will be enjoyed, but not judged. All entries will be
judged according to the style entered; however, categories may be combined
with related categories for the presentation of awards.
Awards and Prizes
Certificates of achievement, first, second and third place ribbons will be
awarded in each category or combined category as well as for the BEST of
SHOW. BUZZ will secure commercial sponsorship for category winners. All
questions and disputes will be settled by the competition organizer. All
decisions will be final.
Entries
An entry consists of two (2) bottles, accompanied by a completed
entry/recipe form -- one for each entry. A bottle ID form must be attached
to each bottle with rubber bands -- No glue or tape.
Beers must be in clean 10-16 ounce glass bottles, free of labels, raised
glass, silk screen, or other identifying markings. Any markings on the cap
must be completely blacked out. No swing-top bottles.
All entries become the property of BUZZ. No bottles will be returned.
Entry Fees & Deadlines
Entry fees are $5.00 per entry. Make check payable to Beer Unlimited.
Entries must arrive between June 15 and June 24, 1996. Entries will not be
accepted before June 15 or after June 24, 1995, except for entries by judges
and stewards which may be brought the day of the competition if pre-paid
registratrion is received by Jun 24th. Send entries to:
BUZZ- Off
c/o Beer Unlimited
Rts 30 & 401
Malvern, PA 19355
Local entries may be dropped off between June 15 and June 24, 1995 at any
of the Philadelphia Area homebrewing stores.
Packing and Shipping
Pack in a sturdy box. Pad each bottle and the inside of the box. Line box
with heavy trash bag and twist-tie securely. Pack entry forms, recipe
forms, and fees outside the bag. Mark the box Fragile. UPS is recommended
for shipping.
Beer Label Contest
Beer labels will be judged for artistic merit and appropriateness to the
style for the label entry. Entry fee is $2.00. Each label must be
accompanied by an entry form. In order to show off your labels in their
natural environment, submit entries attached to an empty, capped beer
bottle. First, second and third place ribbons will be awarded.
Delaware Valley Homebrewer of The Year
The BUZZ-Off is the final jewel in the local homebrewing crown: The 1996
Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year will be chosen based on points
awarded from the Hops-Bops, War of the Worts, Dock Street, Moon Madness and
BUZZ-Off Competitions.
Judges
We will secure the most experienced, qualified BJCP judges possible. We are
soliciting qualified judges and stewards from all participating homebrew
clubs. Judges and stewards will be awarded experience points toward the
Beer Judge Certification Program. Prospective judges and stewards are
requested to fill out the attached form. You will be contacted individually
to confirm participation and given directions to the contest. Since this
year we are holding this event at a new brewery/brew pub in our area, there
is even more reason to come and spend the day out of the hot sun. The
competition will begin promptly at 10:00am. Stewards and judgees are
requested to be present by 9:00am for final assignments.
Bed and Brew
Judges and stewards from out of the area are welcome to participate in the
Bed and Brew program. There are three other brew pubs in the area now,
Valley Forge, The Sly Fox and the Lancaster Malt Brewing Company in addition
to the fine Victory Brewing Company so come in early the day before and tour
the breweries in the area. BUZZ club members are opening their homes for
those traveling from some distance who would like to have a place to stay
for Saturday June 29th and Sunday June 30th. Please indicate your desire to
have a place to stay on the Judge/Steward Registration Form and you will be
contacted several weeks prior to the contest.
You may enter using the standard recipe, bottle label and judge
participation forms or
For further information contact:
Jim McHale at Beer Unlimited (610) 889-0905
or
Dave Houseman H: (610) 458-0743
Competition Organizer W:(610) 648-4071
dlh1@trpo3.tredydev.unisys.com
------------------------------
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 10:44:48 -0400
Subject: 1996 Small & Tiny results (at last!)
The 1996 Small & Tiny homebrew competition turned out to be pretty
small and tiny itself. I blame this on insufficient publicity efforts
on my part (we'll do better next year, or we won't do it -- I've
learned my lesson). But, many of our 15 entries were very good to
excellent, with three of the winners scoring over 40 points. If your
beer placed it was because it was a good beer.
Due to the small number of entries, the categories were collapsed
back to the original 2: small and tiny.
SMALL BEERS (OG 1.035 - 1.043)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
1st Bill Holmes English Special Bitter
2nd John P Skryski III and IV Honey Ginger Wheat
3rd John P Skryski III and IV Brown Ale
TINY BEERS (OG < 1.035)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
1st Tom Dimmer American Amber
2nd Stephen Klump English Ordinary Bitter
3rd Bill Holmes Cream Ale
BEST OF SHOW went to Tom Dimmer for his excellent "Tiny American
Amber". This beer had a wonderful malty nose and was exceptionally
drinkable, although it was a tough pick between it and the "small" bitter.
I apologize for the delay in getting results out, and can only plead
work pressures. Score sheets (but probably not ribbons) will be in
the mail by this weekend. I will post some winning recipes in coming
weeks, as time permits.
My thanks to all of you who took the time and effort to enter your
beers, and to Dan McConnell and Paul Philippon for judging.
Spencer Thomas
Competition Organizer
------------------------------
From: Marc Hugentobler <MARHUG@mdls.usu.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 09:21:49 GMT+700
Subject: re:sheperd neame
Hey all,
> On another topic, I've detected a distinctive flavor in several British ales
> I've tasted recently, namely Fullers Olde Winter Ale and Shepherd Neame's
> Bishop's Finger Kentish Ale.
Now this beer I would venture a guess has little to no diacetyl at
all. There is a big, hairy, gnarly kind of Oak and sourness that
rendered this beer almost unpalatable. It did improve after I left it
in the fridge for a day or two though:-o
"Decker, Robin E." <robind@rmtgvl.rmtinc.com> says
> This ties in neatly (IMO) with the subject of disclaimers.....KNOCK IT OFF
>ALREADY!!! Its the silliest thing I've ever seen...a recommendation, or a
Here, here mellow out. Jack and others make many valuable
contributions daily. If you wanna bitch, you're gonna hafta kick your
contributions up a notch.
Cheers,
Marc
:-):-):-):-):-):-):-)
Marhug@mdls.usu.edu
------------------------------
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 10:54:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Gas leaks
In hbd #2042 Howard asked about some kind of grease for keg gaskets. I use
a keg lube from Williams Brewing at (800) 759-6025. It is $3.90 for a
1 oz. container of what appears to be silicone grease. That seems high
but it goes a long way and I could not readily find another source.
The important thing is that it has worked very well for me. I use it on all
the o-rings with particular attention to the lid ring. It really seems to
help seal my kegs. Also, the grease on the qd post rings helps attach lines
without binding. I would recommend it or an equivalent. Of course, as with
all mail order, don't forget the cost of delivery.
John Wilkinson
------------------------------
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 12:00:37 -0400
Subject: More Foam Finds
Domenick Venezia dropped me an E-mail with an excellent suggestion for
finding foam for Chillers:
************************
Ken,
Refridgerators and freezers are shipped in large boxes lined with 2"
styrofoam slabs. I know because as a biotechnology company we buy a lot of
refridgerators and freezers. My guess is that most household appliances
are similarly shipped. Someone looking for styrofoam sheets might want to
visit an appliance store dumpster or just ask if they could save some
for you.
Domenick Venezia
Computer Resources
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia@zgi.com
************************
So you see, there is a wide range of possible places from which to obtain the
stuff. Hospitals (as I mentioned), appliance stores, industrial facilities,
machine shops, etc, are all good places to start. My local insulation
supplier will part with a brand new 4x8 sheet of 2" extruded polystyrene for
$25.44 plus tax.
I'm working on an alternate cut plan to allow construction of a Chiller which
will accomodate a 7-gal bucket as well as the 6 - 7 gal carboys. The
footprint is only slightly larger than the current layout; 19" x 27". It
appears that the size may allow up to *four* jugs of ice to be used, which
will extend the time between changes and/or allow operation at lower
temperatures. Being an ale man, I haven't tried lagering in it, but a friend
was able to maintain 55F wort temperature without running the thing full-on,
with 2 jugs of ice. In the interim I've posted bucket.gif in my ftp site;
it's my preliminary layout for the larger unit (still fits on a 4x8 sheet).
Once I've built another one and made sure it's sized correctly I'll rewrite
the CHILLER.ZIP document to include it as well as other info I've collected
since releasing the design.
Ken Schwartz
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://users.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
From: Michael Higuchi <mhiguchi@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 16:11:30 GMT
Subject: Attenuation or Loss of Mass?
Here's a technical (and probably useless) question for you yeast
gurus (cross-posted to r.c.b and the h.b.d)
How much of the apparent attenuation in a fermenting wort is
actually due to alcohol production, and how much can be
attributed to production of bio-mass (dead yeast) (and also mass
loss through CO2 evolution)?
Based upon the amount of yeast I find on the bottom of my
primaries, I would imagine that this represents a significant
proportion. And as we're all aware ;) , CO2 production from a
vigorous ferment is not exactly trivial, although I wouldn't
imagine that a lot of _mass_ gets lost.
Who knows ???
Michael Higuchi
Costa Mesa, California
------------------------------
From: "ADAIR, BENTON E." <ADAIRBE@austy944a.aust.tdprs.state.tx.us>
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 11:21:00 PDT
Subject: Info for Newbies
Check out St. Pats of Texas' web site. There are a couple of examples of
brewing, all-grain and extract.
http://www.internetnow.com/stpats/index.html
neato-keen!
-Ben
------------------------------
From: "William G. Rucker" <ruckewg@naesco.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 12:18:54 EST
Subject: Brewery wish list
Hello brewseekers,
For those of you who hve built a brewery in your home, what one detail
would you change if you had it to do over again?
I am designing my brewery now and have gotten some excellent ideas
from those who have looked at my page
(http://www.dnh.mv.net/ipusers/peanut/brewbild.htm) and written to me.
I hope to have some new additions to the site this week. I am working
on a drawing right now of the plumbing for the set up. I am wanting to
make a manifold that I can use to transfer fluids from one vessel to
another using only one pump, or one pump and gravity. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Bill Rucker
Somersworth, NH
ruckewg@naesco.com
brewzer@peanut.mv.com
Check out the VirtuBrewery at:
http://www.dnh.mv.net/ipusers/peanut/brewbild.htm
------------------------------
From: Mark Worwetz <MWORWETZ@novell.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 10:50:01 -0600
Subject: Beer in Chicago
Howdy from Zion!
I realize the tremendous bandwidth burden this message will exert, but
dagnabit, when urine Utah ya learn to be pushy!
I will be attending Comdex in Chicago in early June and would like to know
about the GOOD microbrew pubs. I realize a phone book will help once I
get there, but there's nothing like a good reference (or two, or three!).
If anyone knows the Cubs schedule for the week of 6/3-6/6, I would love
that info too! (Nothing like baseball n' beer!)
Please reply offline to Mark_Worwetz@Novell.COM
Thankyouverymuchyourewonderful!
------------------------------
From: Chuck Volle <cvolle@alpha.che.uc.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 12:47:34 -0400
Subject: Small Bottles
Does anyone have a suggestion for obtaining bottles to house my "Beloved
Barleywine".
Ideally, the typical nip bottles would be great, but, I don't know where to
find them.
I think a twelve ouncer will be too large and, altho' consuming a case of
Grimbergen small guys sounds like a party, there's got to be another way!
I've got a 2 1/2 gallon batch dry hoppin right now, so I've got a little
time, but I want to "put it up" pretty soon.
Thanks in advance!
Chuck Volle cvolle@alpha.che.uc.edu
Creative Juices Brewery
------------------------------
From: krkoupa@ccmail2.pacbell.com
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 10:13:03 PST
Subject: Ants in the Air-Lock
My carboys are on the floor of the garage because it's
cooler there. (Californians don't have basements.) Two
days ago I noticed a stream of ants making a beeline for the
carboys, so I pulled out my can of Raid and let 'em have it.
(I think they got tired of drinking 12 ounces of Bud at the
old ant hill and were going for the 5-gallon sized Weizen.)
Last night I found about a dozen ants had crawled into the
air-lock and died. I don't know if they were Raided or not
before they went swimming, but I assume so. Is my beer
ruined? ;-)
It's just an air-lock, a "one-way" valve of sorts, without
beer contact, so there shouldn't be any problem, right?
My two questions are:
1. Should I leave the ants (and risk nano parts per million
Raid contamination) or should I remove the ants (and risk
ordinary air-nasties contamination)?
2. Has anyone done a study on fumes passing through
air-locks? For example, auto exhaust (being in the garage
and all that.)
Thanks, Ken Koupal krkoupa@ccmail2.pacbell.com
(Gee, that HBD transfer to AOB was painless.)
------------------------------
From: Scott Abene <skotrat@wwa.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 12:22:51 -0500
Subject: Hmmmmm! Grain Mills?
Hey all,
Does anyone here have an opinion on a good grain mill to buy?
I mean what are the differences really?
Is a roller mill better than a plate mill???
How bout my coffee grinder? Is this a good way to mill my grain?
Anybody here make their own mills and sell them?
- -Scott "I just couldn't resist this sick little bit of sarcasm" Abene
####################################################
# ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT #
# Scott Abene <skotrat@wwa.com> #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat #
# (Skotrats Official Homebrew "Beer Slut" Webpage) #
# OR #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ #
# (Skotrats Brew-Rat-Chat Homebrew Chat System) #
# "Get off your dead ass and brew" #
####################################################
------------------------------
From: Bill Press <press@lip.wustl.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 17:31:01 GMT
Subject: HELP: Water filters? Water treatment?
I live in St. Louis, where we have, according to the EPA, an excessive
amount of carinogens in our water (due to fertilizer and pesticides).
Also, as many of the houses around here were built before The
Depression, much of the plumbing (including, I believe, my house) has
lead in the piping.
I want to buy a water filter -- one of those cylinders that goes
in-line with my faucet (i.e. not a Brita filter that holds less than a
gallon at a time, and which I need to fill up). Does anyone have
recommendations which one I should buy? How much will this thing
cost? Is there anything I need to do to my water (minerals) in order
to make up for the filtering when I brew?
Thanks,
Bill
------------------------------
From: Shawn Steele <shawn@aob.org>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 11:53:35 -0600
Subject: The Move
Unfortunatly there seem to be a few technical problems with the move.
I am working on them as we speak.
1. Our computer is sending mail slowly, but as far as I know it is
getting to everyone on the list, just a bit slowly. I am working on
our system's mailer configuration to improve performance.
2. Digest #2042 was large. This is due to the conversion from Rob's
system to majordomo and 4 users mail size limits were exceeded. The
size has dropped and the digest has been moved from 6 days/week to 7
days/week to try to combat large digests. I intend to pay attention to
size and limit it if necessary.
3. The digest does not respond to new submissions like it used to. I
intend to add an acknowledgement message, but that will have to wait
until I get the e-mail speed problem solved.
I hope to have everything working more normally very shortly and I
apologize for any glitches.
- - shawn
Shawn Steele
Digest Janitor
------------------------------
From: "Daniel S. McConnell" <danmcc@umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 15:48:35 -0500
Subject: 1996 Mazer Cup
1996 MAZER CUP MEAD COMPETITION
Announcing the 5th Annual Mazer Cup Mead Competition, the oldest
Mead-only competition in North America. Proud sponsor of the 1996
National Homebrew Competition Mead Category. [yikes, I sound like a
beer commercial....]
The entire announcement has been posted to the mead lovers digest and
will appear soon. Send me a message and I will send you the full
announcement with forms etc.
The mazers are uncommonly beautiful this year-a really unusual glaze!
Plus, there is a 40 lb pail of either Orange Blossom or Sierra
Mesquite/Catclaw Honey to give away with the usual ribbons, yeast culture
kits and a wort chiller or two.
All North American entries will be accepted between June 5-21st 1996.
International entries will be accepted anytime before June 21st. Ken
and I will accept entries at the National Homebrew Conference and hand
carry them back to Michigan.
First round judging will be held during the weekend of June 29, 1996.
Best of Show judging will be held on June 30th 1996
e-mail to Ken Schramm <SchramK@wcresa.k12.mi.us> will get you a snail-mail,
postable copy of this flyer (in color!) and entry forms.
Qualified Mead Judges are invited to help us judge this event.
Online entry is available courtesy of Spencer Thomas:
http://realbeer.com/spencer/AABG/mazer_mead.html
DanMcC
------------------------------
From: "PAUL K. ANDERSON" <PANDERSON@hope.cit.hope.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:22:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Keeping the hose on your chiller
If you have (or have access to) a flaring tool for copper tubing
you can work a small flare onto the end of the tube where you
attach the pressure hose. By then clamping behind the flare you
should be able to keep the hose on. Just don't flare too much
or the increase in diameter will prevent your attaching the hose.
Paul
------------------------------
From: Fred Hardy <fcmbh@access.digex.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 13:49:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: AHA NHC Bashing
My post on the results coming from Florida has fostered a number of posts
very critical of the AHA. It was my intent to be critical of the
organizers who I feel were at fault. Suggestions that the AHA find better
organizers and/or sites with a plethora of judges is a gross
oversimplification of the effort required to run the NHC.
The Washington, DC, area has a plethora of judges AND experienced
organizers. The AHA approached several of us in the area about organizing
a 1st round NHC regional site. There were no takers, and the AHA was
forced to seek other sites. Why were there no takers?
Members of my club (we're small) cited risk of financial ruin (the AHA and
the regional organizers operate on a very tight budget) as one of two main
reasons. The other was that it is a bunch of work, and they saw no payoff
for their efforts.
I suspect somewhat similar reasons were given by the area's megaclub.
I was willing to be an organizer, but the support just wasn't available
for such minor issues as a site, fund raising activities and the like.
Putting on one of these HBCs is a bear, folks. The Spirit of Free Beer in
the spring and the Capitol District Open in the fall, plus usually one
single style competition already chews up a lot of the voluntary fervor of
the area. I just feel that the Florida organizers could have done better.
As for the scores I received, they don't bother me a bit. A win at one
competition says nothing about how that beverage will be perceived
elsewhere. I'm irked because I suspect the organizers did not tell the
obviously inexperienced judges that two of my entries were braggot, not
honey flavored rocket fuel (though I did enter one of those, too).
As for next year? Well, I'm going to spend some time seeing if maybe the
DC area has enough interest for a consortium of area clubs to organize a
1st round AHA NHC mid-Atlantic regional site. I'd like to see if we can do
better.
BTW, thanks, AHA for the NHC. I look forward to it every year - worts and
all.
==============================================================================
We must invent the future, else it will | <Fred Hardy>
happen to us and we will not like it. |
[Stafford Beer, "Platform for Change"] | email: fcmbh@access.digex.net
==============================================================================
------------------------------
From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nlkanous@facstaff.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 17:31:42 -0500
Subject: Moving!
I'm moving. I need to find brewers, brewclubs, and supplies in my new home.
I will be relocating to Michigan. My wife and I haven't decided exactly
where we will be, but my job is in Saginaw. So, anybody out there that can
help make my relocation more pleasurable, please do so. TIA
Nathan
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Andy Walsh <awalsh@crl.com.au>
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 10:37:28 +1100
Subject: Coopers Sparkling Ale
Chris writes:
>>The Coopers Sparkling ale has the exact 'off taste' as my pear brew. Is
>>this an ester (sp) taste? Any input about what this is and how to
>>git OR NOT GIT this taste would be greatly appreciated.
and Al replies:
>When you mentioned Coopers Sparkling Ale, that rang a bell in my head.
>This beer has a rather strong phenolic aroma/flavour.
Sorry guys, when you mention one of my favourite commercial beers I have to
make a comment.
As a good Adelaide boy I was weaned off mother's milk onto this stuff. I have
to say that it has a huge bottle variation, no doubt due to the bottle
conditioning (it has *large* yeast deposits), and transport treatments.
Some samples (especially recently) are extremely phenolic, and that's been
noticed by our beer club members over the last year or so. (I am Sydney
based now). I find it hard to believe that you'd get any decent samples
at all in the US, due to the long transport times from Australia. The very
best samples are the kegged ones, and these must be carefully handled
by the cellarmaster to be any good at all, anyway.
Good samples are not phenolic, and *do* have a fruity apple/pear character.
Bad samples are really phenolic, and virtually undrinkable.
Coopers Sparkling Ale must be about the most temperamental beer on this earth.
Coopers doesn't travel!
- --
Andrew Walsh CHAD Research Laboratories
Phone (61 2) 212 6333 5/57 Foveaux Street
Fax (61 2) 212 1336 Surry Hills. NSW. 2010
email awalsh@crl.com.au Australia.
------------------------------
From: Andy Walsh <awalsh@crl.com.au>
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 10:53:40 +1100
Subject: Duvel clones
Jim Cave writes:
> I made a Duvel clone with two (reputedly) different strains of the
>Duvel yeasts. Duvel is mashed to about 1.058 and then the gravity is raise
>to the 1.070's with dextrose. For fear of Crabtree with the very high levels
>of dextrose to be added, I prepared a very large starter (2.5 litres) with
>45 litres of beer. I pitched this in a conventional gravity 1.058 wort, well
>oxygenated, and got a very happy ferment going. My thoughts were to get a
>vigorous ferment and then add liquid dextrose...wrong! I added the Dextrose
>and the ferment virtually came to a halt. It took 3 weeks for the yeast to
>finally poop out and as it was still sweet, I ended up finishing the beer
>with some Celis yeast which I had collected from a Primary. This finished
>quickly.
> The moral to the story is...make a small beer first and pitch all
>of this yeast into a strong beer made with dextrose. BTW this beer was
>bottle conditioned with fresh Duvel yeast and was fully conditioned in 5 days.
I too have tried adding dextrose mid-ferment to Belgians for fear of Crabtree.
I agree it doesn't work, and is a great way to get a stuck ferment. When using
high dextrose concentrations, it seems to be best added in the boil, but even
then some yeasts just won't ferment out. I persisted with 3944 for a long time,
tossing out batch after batch. (sob). The new Wyeast 1388 is supposedly one
of the Duvel yeasts. I have a Duvel clone in the secondary now made in a similar
way to Jim's (but with the sugar added to the boil) and had a good quick
fermentation. Talk about low flocculation though!
BTW, Duvel is supposedly lagered around 0C for a few weeks as well, according
to Jackson.
- --
Andrew Walsh CHAD Research Laboratories
Phone (61 2) 212 6333 5/57 Foveaux Street
Fax (61 2) 212 1336 Surry Hills. NSW. 2010
email awalsh@crl.com.au Australia.
------------------------------
From: texan@mindspring.com (James and Tamara Williams)
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 22:28:01 -0400
Subject: hydrometer readings
In HBD #2043 Jeremy E. Mirsky writes:
>My second question pertains to my hydrometer readings, which are usually
>discrepant with the recipe or the calculated gravity. This time I boiled about
>3.5 gals of wort and tried to mix as well as I could with the water in the
>fermenter. Suds4.0 gave me a O.G. of 1.046, yet my reading was about 1.038
>(after cooling below 80 deg.) This has happened with most of my batches. Has
>anyone had similar experiences?
This may seem like a dumb question, but have you calibrated your
hydrometer? Test your hydometer by taking a reading using distilled water.
It should read 1.000. If not, the difference is the correction factor you
need to add or substract to your measurements in the future.
Now, to the first question:
>I followed the advice I received from the collective and made a starter, which
> never got very active over the 2 days it sat. <SNIP> I used a 22 oz. bottle, a
> couple tbsps. of malt extract, and some hops
First, there really is no need to add hops to your starter. The lack of
activity in your starter is likely due to the amount of malt you used. A
couple of tablespoons is not enough. You need to use closer to a cup in two
cups of water. to start. With only two tbls, the yeast finished with the
sugar before you could have noticed and before it could reproduce to
sufficient numbers for pitching.
If you have the time and inclination, you should step up from the two cups
again before pitching. I usually don't, but the more yeast the better.
James Williams
texan@mindspring.com
Come see the web page for our Atlanta-based brew club.
www.mindspring.com/~texan/SAAZ.html
------------------------------
From: Tim Wort <tim@Access.COM>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 21:19:03 -0600
Subject: tea.. serious brew, heart of the hops
I have only seen one mention of a "hop tea" while reading the FHW tread, I have tried the "hop tea" method and found it to work very well for both flavor and aroma. At bottling time add the priming sugar to a quart of water, add .5 oz of you preferred hops and bring to a boil (1 min or so boil), add to the brew and bottle. My experience is that this adds a prnounced hop aroma, no bitter and plenty of flavor (so much you might make it .25 oz).
Having said that, what experience does the group have with hop oil? I have never tried it for dry hopping, is it worth the effort?
The heart of the hops ad (by Miller), they really only show someone holding a hop bud, it is as others have said, marketing BS. I may try one though just to see if there is any hop taste....
BTW yes, it's my real name.
- -tw
------------------------------
From: cerevis@mcs.net (Christopher Weirup)
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 23:16:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Lagering refrigerator
In HBD #2024, Ronald Narvaez wrote:
>A few months ago I had some instructions on how to make a Lagering
>refrigerator using Styrofoam, a computer fan and a block of Ice. I had a
>hard drive crash on my computer and lost most of my important data. I
>would like to do a couple lagers that I have but I do not have the room
>or the means to set up a full sized lagering refrigerator. If anybody has
>a copy of these instructions or can point me to a place where I can get
>them I would greatly appreciate it.
I made one myself from plans I found in the beer archives of AOL. I think
those are the plans that you are referring to. I don't have the name of
guy or the plans on this computer right now, but I can get them to you if
you wish. Plus, I can give you some tips from my experience in making the
contraption.
Just some quick info: There were two sets of plans, the first being how to
build the basic setup and the second on how to adjust the thermostat to get
the temps down to a lagering level. It holds one five-gallon carboy with
airlock and two 1-gallon milk bottles of ice. I find that it is great to
maintain good temperature control, especially during the summer, for both
ales and lagers for those of us in which it is impractical to get a second
fridge, i.e., living in an apartment, very little space, etc. However, you
will need the second set of plans to have any success at getting down to
lager temps. Even then, I find that the contraption will struggle to get
down to anything colder than around45-48 degrees F. But that may have more
to do with my poor building skills than the design of the contraption :).
Chris Weirup
cerevis@mcs.net
------------------------------
From: apmcgregor@nmaa.org (Art McGregor)
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 00:36:05 -0400
Subject: Keg Beer lines and Carbonator
Hi Every One!
I've only kegged two batches so far, but thought I should
chime in. I've not had great success with the
3/8 od (1/4 id) vinyl hoes that came with the kegs.
I feel safer with pressure at 10 psi, but the beer comes out as foam
at that pressure. I needed to reduce the pressure down to 2-3 psi each
time I would draw a beer. However, after some reading, I bought 3/16
id vinyl tubing and just tonight tried it out. I can keep the pressure
at 10 psi in the keg and get a good non-foam mug of beer. I use about
4 ft of tubing. The friction of the smaller diameter beer line is
much higher for 3/16 id (I think around 2 or 2.2 psi/ft of hose versus
the 1/4 id hose I used before (around .6 psi/ft of hose). So with around
4 ft of hose, the pressure needed to push the beer thru the line is 9-10
psi and so far (only one mug), it works much better.
My success with the carbonator has improved with filling the 2 liter
bottles. I now pressurize to 30 psi, then put in freezer and shake
every 30 min-hour. When it starts to freeze, I remove carbonator, the screw
bottle cap on. So far so good. It is still much more of a process than I
would like though ...
Hoppy Brewing! :^)
Art McGregor
(Day: mcgregap@acq.osd.mil)
(Evening/Weekend: apmcgregor@nmaa.org)
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2044
****************************
