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HOMEBREW Digest #2010
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/04/13 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #2010 Sat 13 April 1996
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Homebrew Digest #2009 (April 12, 1996) -Reply (DENNIS WALTMAN)
zero emissions by beer breweries ("E-L Foo, UN Univ, Tokyo")
Old Malt Cans / Lagering / Starters (Rosenzweig,Steve)
re:bottle baking (KDDrakes)
Gravity / Skunks Before & After / Fermentation Chiller (KennyEddy)
Sierra Nevada Porter ("Clark D. Ritchie")
Wine, grapes and prohibition (Douglas Thomas)
Another light-struck question. (Mitch Hogg)
Yet another H2O question ("Toler, Duffy L.")
Grain & Extract (Fred Hardy)
Defy gravity / spigots ("Dave Hinkle")
Widmer Hefe-Weizen (KrisPerez)
CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort (Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE)
Re: ANYONE (SBFunk)
The smell of new-mown hay ... (Michael Owings)
Light struck, Baking Bottles, Thrifty acres. (Russell Mast)
Dating Wyeast Packs (Tim Martin)
"Light struck" hops (guym)
Wort canning for yeast propagation (hollen)
trappist ale (Orval Jewell)
Question on Water Filter (JIM ANDERSON)
copper tubing/pipe (Domenick Venezia)
******************************************************************
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 04:47:39 -0400
From: DENNIS WALTMAN <PDWALTMAN@sablaw.com>
Subject: Homebrew Digest #2009 (April 12, 1996) -Reply
I will not be in the office 4/11/96.
If you have a rush or emergency please call the Help Line at 8773
or 404-853-8773.
I should be back in the office by 9:30 am on 4/12/96.
Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 19:01:44 +0900
From: "E-L Foo, UN Univ, Tokyo" <FOO@hq.unu.edu>
Subject: zero emissions by beer breweries
INVITATION
1st Electronic Conference on Zero Emissions by Beer Breweries
The Zero Emissions Research Initiative (UNU/ZERI) welcomes you
to participate at its 1st Electronic Conference on Zero Emissions
by Beer Breweries (1st May - 30 June 1996). The scope of this
conference covers all aspects related to the complete utilization,
treatment and conversion of beer brewery by-products, i.e.
spent grain, yeast, kieselguhr, beer rejects, wastewater, carbon
dioxide gas, heat energy, broken glass, etc. This electronic
conference will enable participants to join general discussions
and to discuss a number of subject-related papers. The
conference will start on May 1st , continue through the 2nd
Annual World Congress on Zero Emissions, Chattanooga, USA.
(more information at web site: http://www.zeri.org/) and on
until 30 June.
HOW TO PARTICIPATE
A pre-requisite to your participation is access to electronic mail.
To join the electronic conference, email the following command
in the body of mail to LISTSERV@SEARN.SUNET.SE
SUBSCRIBE ET-ODEN firstname lastname (organisation)
e.g. sub et-oden Markus Suzuki (Tokyo Inst Technol)
REGISTRATION
Registration to the electronic conference is free.
ORGANIZER:
Mr. Eng-Leong Foo
Institute for Advanced Studies, United Nations University
5-53-67 Jingumae 5-chome, Shibuya-ku,Tokyo 150.
Fax: (81-3)3499-2828; foo@hq.unu.edu,
http://www.zeri.org/ http://www.ias.unu.edu/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 07:18:58 PDT
From: Steve_Rosenzweig@wb.xerox.com (Rosenzweig,Steve)
Subject: Old Malt Cans / Lagering / Starters
Congrats to HBD on hitting 2000 - here's to 20,000 more!!!
***********************
In HBD 2009, Eric Stetson asks about old malt cans and lagering temps:
>From what I have heard, as long as the cans aren't bulging (infected)
or rusted anywhere (give a metallic taste), the only possible effect
might be that the extract will be somewhat darker than a fresh can.
In the last few months a local brew shop has put cans of out of date
malt on sale (94 - 95 exp dates -$5.50 each - half price!). I bought
a couple and tried them out - one did in fact turn out darker than I
had hoped, but another brand turned out lighter than I had
anticipated, and in both cases the taste was fine. One hopped can
actually gave me some hop trub in the boil pot above the wort level -
along with good hop aroma - something I rarely find in hopped extract
cans, even fresh ones.
So the moral of the story is: use them if you want to just make good
beer for casual consumption, but if you have your heart set on brewing
up a prize winning beer you should go for the freshest ingredients
possible. (I ended up going back and buying up several more out of
date cans - got to build up my keg reserve for summer!!!)
On lagering: 42-44 should be fine. It may take awhile for complete
fermentation, but it'll be worth the wait. I use a beermeister to
lager in, and it stays right in that range!
************************************
In HBD 2009, Chris DiIorio asks about yeast starters:
Check out the Tech Library in The Brewery at alpha.rollanet.org - lots
of good stuff on yeast starters there!!
If you're Web deficient, E-mail me and I'll send you the text from the
write-ups.
**********************************
Stephen
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:26:34 -0400
From: KDDrakes@aol.com
Subject: re:bottle baking
In #2009 Mike Spinelli tells about how he bakes his bottles to sanitize them.
Yeah, it should work, but (there's always one of these), the temps required
can make the glass brittle and lead to premature fatigue/failure. Be careful
or you may experience the exploding bottle syndrome. And if you think bottle
washing is a PIA...
Regards, Kerry Drake
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:29:01 -0400
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Subject: Gravity / Skunks Before & After / Fermentation Chiller
Kirk Harralson added a comment to my Gravity formulae with respect to
leftover wort. This is an important omission since it impacts not only
kettle gravity but recipe formulation as well.
My electric boiler's drain valve is positioned so that I lose about 0.4 gal
of wort (but I leave much of the crud behind). Because of the hops and
break, which will displace some wort, the figure is probably a bit lower, but
I doubt it's significant. Anyway, if my final chilled wort is supposed to
have a gravity of say 1.050, *all* the final wort must have this gravity,
including the wort left behind. Therefore, if I want 5 gal in my fermenter,
I need *5.4 gal in my recipe formulation* at the 5-gal gravity. So I need to
set my batch size to 5.4 gallons, not 5. And if I boil for 90 minutes at 1/2
gal/hour evap loss (3/4 gal for the 90 min), I must have an initial boil
volume of 5.4 + 0.75 = 6.15 gal. Now I can apply the "boil gravity" formula
to these figures:
BG = (5.4 / 6.15) * 50 = 44 or SG = 1.044 immediately after sparging (or
after mixing in the extract).
Note that 5.4 versus 5 gallons is nearly 10% more, so this can have a pretty
significant impact on your grain bill (you'll need 1/2 to 1 pound more grain
for a typical 5-gal batch). Neglecting this in your formulation can lead to
lower-than-expected OG's (and therefore incorrect efficiency figures).
**********************
Thanks to everyone who pointed out that hop AA's must be isomerized (by
boiling) before they can be skunkified. "Hops aren't grown in the dark".
Indeed.
**********************
Kerry Drake tells of plans for a fermentation cooler available at The
Brewery, but is wondering about hot Oklahoma summers. Kerry, I built one
(actually I built the *first* one!) and these hot *West Texas* summers can't
keep my fermenting beer from staying happy at 65F with ice changes every 2-3
days. This in my 90F garage. At 75-80 ambient (more typical for cooler
climates' summers) four days would be likely.
Ken Schwartz
KennyEddy@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 08:17:46 -0700
From: "Clark D. Ritchie" <ritchie@ups.edu>
Subject: Sierra Nevada Porter
Greg,
I found the following recipe somewhere on the Net. This recipe was
(allegedly) scaled down from Sierra Nevada's original 500 gallon recipe. I
don't know how accurate that statement is, nonetheless this mkes a truly
great porter.
For 5 Gallons:
Grains:
9.80 lb English 2-row Pale
0.25 lb American Cara-Pils
0.40 lb American Caramel 60=B0L
0.40 lb American Chocolate
0.25 lb American Black Roast
Hops:
0.75 oz Perle @ 60 minutes
0.75 oz Perle @ 30 minutes
0.75 oz Perle @ 15 minutes
Yeast:
I've had great results with American Ale (1056) but recently tweaked things
around a bit and used Swedish Porter. I'd stick with American Ale.
OG: Low 60s
TG: Mid teens
Go for it! ...CDR
Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie@ups.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 08:22:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd@uchastings.edu>
Subject: Wine, grapes and prohibition
Re: Postings on malt extract for unique baked goods.
Well, I am not sure about beer, it was probably illegal to make at home
during prohibition, but wine was quite legal to make for family use in
many states. As mentioned in a post if the April 12 HBD, most of
California's vintners stayed alive by selling grapes at market. But,
most of these markets were legal home wine making markets, and known as
such. The train yards of Chicago, New York, Pennsylvania, all over
California, all were legally billed for the home winemaker. Notice,
also, that the places I mentioned have very high amounts of recently
arrived European immigrants (my family included, from Italy), that would
not have accepted life without wine, so the government was smart enough
to allow up to 200 gallons (at least California) of wine to be made by
the head of the family. Grape juice was even sold by varietal type! The
only thing that was illegal about wine was if it was sold, or given to
people outside the family. Oh, you could not go over 200 gallons, that
was deemed enough for the family. Beer, as I said before, is probably a
whole different story, though I know a few people who's mother or father
made beer. This seemed to be prevelant throughout the SouthWest, but was
probably everywhere. One persons mother even got much of her grain
herself. They lived near an abandoned wheat field, and she made
traditional wheat beers for much of the block.
Well, there's my $.02
Doug Thomas
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 11:37:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mitch Hogg <bu182@freenet.toronto.on.ca>
Subject: Another light-struck question.
I learned about the nasty effects of light the hard way. For the last
five years or so, I've been fermenting and storing bottled beer in the
closet because that's where I had the space. Recently I moved to an
apartment with very little closet space and began leaving carboys and
bottles out in the open. Bad move. The first two batches I made here had
an off-taste that was best described by my girlfriend as "magic marker".
I have now started dressing my carboys in old t-shirts to keep out the
sun, and the latest two batches have been up to my former standards (he
said, without a trace of arrogance). So, now that I've learned my lesson, I
have a question for y'all: I work at a you-brew winemaking place, and we
leave the carboys out in the sun all the time. Now, it's never direct
sunlight; there's a street-level overhang outside that shields some
light, but the front of the store is about twenty feet of plate glass.
However, the wine we make never has any traces of light-induced
skunkiness. What gives? Is there some fundamental difference between wine
and beer (like hops, for instance, or higher alcohol content) that keeps
skunkiness from occurring? Or is it just dumb luck?
TIA for your help,
Mitch.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 12:28:00 PDT
From: "Toler, Duffy L." <TOLERD@cdnet.cod.edu>
Subject: Yet another H2O question
My wife and I are looking into getting a water softener for the benefit of
laundry, dishes, bathing, etc... The water softener people I've talked to
estimated our water at 36,000 grains, adjusted (for iron, I think). I asked
them about the amount of sodium left in the water after exchange and was
told about 157 mg/L.
1. Does this amount of Na seem about right for softened water?
2. Is this an unacceptable level of Na for certain styles?
3. How might this water be treated? (or should I use a hard H2O bypass and
treat that)
4. Would using potassium chloride in the softener be better for brewing
water?
I would hate to cough up an additional $250+++ bucks for a R.O., please
help!
Thanks in advance!
Duffy Toler
Sugar Grove, IL
"Where only the women are harder than the water"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 13:32:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Fred Hardy <fcmbh@access.digex.net>
Subject: Grain & Extract
The AHA Entry/Recipe form has dropped asking the brewer to identify
whether the entry is all grain, grain and extract or all extract. Thank
you, AHA. I notice, however, that some regional competitions continue to
ask the entrant to check this on the recipe form. Since the recipe form
includes all ingredients, I am puzzled why they continue to ask this.
My question to the assembled keyboards concerns a beer that is currently
boiling in my kitchen. It is, I hope, a Bohemian pilsner. My local grain
supplier (Brew America, Vienna, VA) packages grains in 5-lb. bags. For my
own convenience I elected to use 2 bags (10 lbs.) of D-C Belgian Pilsner
grain and 1/2 lb. of Ireks German light crystal. This left me short of the
target O.G., so I'm augmenting it with an Alexander's pale malt kicker.
Now the beer is obviously not all-grain. I usually interpret the grain &
extract categorization to mean that extract is the primary fermentable
with a partial mash to enhance the final beer. In my case it is the
reverse.
What do you check on the entry form, and why does it matter?
Cheers, Fred
==============================================================================
We must invent the future, else it will | <Fred Hardy>
happen to us and we will not like it. |
[Stafford Beer, "Platform for Change"] | email: fcmbh@access.digex.net
------------------------------
Date: 12 Apr 1996 11:16:33 -0700
From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle@aexp.com>
Subject: Defy gravity / spigots
Shelby of Asheville, NC wrote:
>I would like to explain my future system and see if
>you find any problems. I am trying to do this as
>cheaply as possible, so I am cutting many corners in the process. I
>plan on buying two cajon cooker style burners and switch one back and
>forth from the hot liquer tank to the boil kettle. This will be an all
>gravity fed system. This will be acheived by making a "swing set" style
>frame out of four by fours. I will place a pully above each kettle and
>have a steel cable which can be switched to any of the kettles. This
>cable will be attached to a crank and mounted to the frame. When ever I
>want to transfer liquid, I crank the kettle off the ground and gravity
>feed.
Egads! Am I the only person who sees this as a strange aversion to
using a pump? You'll look like Quasimodo (sp?) ringing the bells. You
might want to skip the lumber, cranks, cables and pulleys and just get
a food-grade pump. Just my advice...
Don wrote:
> Well, what I would do is go to the local mega hardware store and get a
>"boiler drain", some conduit nuts and a neoprene (or such) gasket. Take one
>of those white gaskets that come with the bottling spigot with you to make
>sure you get the right sizes (1/2"?).
> You will probably need to put one conduit nut on the outside of the
>"boiler drain" to provide enuf shoulder for the gasket. If I remember
>correctly one of the plastic nuts from your old bottling spigots will fit on
>the inside, or you can be adventurous and use a conduit nut (I do).
Make sure the conduit nut isn't cadmium plated if it will be in contact
with water or wort. A lot of elec. conduit hardware IS cad plated, which
I believe is poisonous. Some are plated w/ a lead/zinc mix, which
you don't want in your wort either. Also, some neoprene isn't food-safe.
Be careful in your "adventures" (keep the heavy metals out of the
beer!).
Dave H
Phoenix AZ
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 14:33:59 -0400
From: KrisPerez@aol.com
Subject: Widmer Hefe-Weizen
>Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 06:52:57 -0400
>From: russ tjepkema <russtj@edgenet.net>
>Subject: Hefenweisen
>I was traveling last week and had the opprtunity to taste Widmer
>Hefenweisen. I usually don't enjoy this style, but this one I really
>liked. I wonder if anyone has any clone recipes?
>TIA
>russ
>From the September 94 issue of All About Beer Magazine:
"Hefe-Weizen a la Widmer Brewing, Portland OR:
1 BBL recipe: 31 gallons/117 liters;
(divide by 6 to make 5 gallons)
25 lbs (11.3kg) American wheat malt
25 lbs (11.3kg) American two-row barley malt
3 lbs, 2 oz (1.4kg) Munich malt
1 lb, 3 oz (540gms) 40L carmel malt
11 oz (312gm) American Tettnanger hops
3 oz (85gm) American Cascade hops
Mash in at 120 degrees F (49C), hold 60 minutes.
Raise to 158F (70C) for conversion. Boil wort
about 1:30 plus; whirlpool. Ferment with a good
ale yeast. Do not filter. Original gravity 11 plato
(sg 1.044); 4.5 % alcohol, terminal 2.1 plato (sg 1.008)
color 7 SRM"
They imply that this is Widmers actual recipe.
Notice that no alpha % is given for the hops and
the yeast is a little vague ("a good ale yeast").
I have not tried this recipe. Good luck!
Kristine
KrisPerez@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 14:15:00 +6
From: Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE <bunningw@ns.langley.af.mil>
Subject: CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort
A question for the collective. carapils malt or Dextrin malt is suppose
to add unfermentables and dextrin to the finished product. I can see how
this works when added as specialty grains to an extract-based beer since
there's no enzymes to break the dextrin down. However, when doing an
all-grain mash, do the enzymes break the dextrin down into simpler sugars
(depending on mash temperature, of course)? Or, do the dextrin chains
remain intact (would also apply to caramel and dark roasted malts), and
if they do, why? Inquiring minds want to know.
Bill Bunning
member of the mile-high brewer's guild
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end
------------------------------
Date: 12 Apr 1996 14:13:58 -0400
From: sbfunk@aol.com (SBFunk)
Subject: Re: ANYONE
I am reading it today for my first time. I've got a batch of Honey Wheat
Ale in my fertmenter. I am a virgin brewer. I thought I check out the
newsgroup and see if there was any good info. Some good stuff and a lot
of trash too.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 11:14:42 -0500
From: Michael Owings <mikey@waste.com>
Subject: The smell of new-mown hay ...
Any help from experienced lager brewers would be appreciated ...
For some time now, I have been attempting to brew all-grain Bavarian-
style lagers. While the resulting beers have been clean, decent beers,
something has been missing -- that "Munich" flavor which I always
associate with fine Bavarian Lagers like those from Paulaner, Spaten, etc.
But until recently, I could not precisely identify the missing flavor
component. Then I read M. Jackson's _Beer Companion_. There he mentions
(almost in passing) that lovers of continental lagers often look for a
"faintly sulfury note, reminiscent of new-mown hay" in their beers.
It immediatly struck me that this "sulfury note" is what seems to be missing
from _my_ beers, as well as many domestic interpretations of bavarian styles
I have tasted.
Is this note the result of residual hydrogen sulfide left in the beer?
The characteristic "rotten egg" smell has been noticably missing
from my fermentations. Moreover, my lagers have tended to be somewhat
under-attenuated, FG usually falling on the low side or just below the
mfgrs stated attenuation range for the yeast.
I have usually used WYeast Bavarian lager 2206, but on the last batch
used a mixed culture of WYeast 2124 and BrewTek CL-680 E. European Lager. I
caught not one whiff of hydrogen sulfide during fermentation. Are these
strains of yeast simply not prolific hydrogen sulfide producers?
All yeasts have been pitched in a 3 liter starter, so I have eliminated
pitching rate as a possible problem. Fermentation and lagering are carried
out at standard thermostat-controlled temps.
I have _not_ been aerating as well as I should, and this may be responsible
for the under attenuation. Could this also be causing the missing flavor note?
Or should I consider a different yeast strain? Feel free to post or email
any ideas -- I'll summarize and repost. Thanx very much in advance -- mikey
=============================================================================
Michael Owings Chief of Operations
Uncle Leroi's Hazardous Materials Storage and FemtoBrewery New Orleans, LA
=============================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:20:11 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Subject: Light struck, Baking Bottles, Thrifty acres.
> From: KennyEddy@aol.com
> There's been some discussion of light-struck hops here recently. I was just
> wondering whether you brewers who brew outside with your gas-fired systems
> ever have any problem with light-struck hops? A hour or so exposure while
> boiling would seem to be asking for trouble, yet no one seems to have this
> problem. Any thoughts?
I assume you're talking about brewing outside. I assume that, first, as
Pierre and Al noted, you can only skunk iso-alpha acids, so until they
convert, you can't get skunking. Also, if you have a real hefty boil going,
your foam on top probably provides a measure of protection. Still, I could
see it being a problem with really long boils on really sunny days.
> From: paa3983@dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli)
> Subject: BOTTLE BAKING
> Does anyone know of a downside to this technique.?
Yes. It will weaken the strength of your bottles. If you let them cool
slowly overnight, that is minimized, I think. I would generally take them
out and let them cool after a short time. I didn't have too many problems
with it, except I decided it was a lot of hassle anyway. Also, because I
tend to sample whilst bottling, I got burned a couple times, and, well, we
don't need to talk about that here.
Nowadays, I usually just rinse my bottles thoroughly right when they're
emptied, let them sit, and then rinse well just before bottling. Haven't
had an infection from that yet, but it's only been about 4 batches or so.
> From: 00bkpickeril@bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian K. Pickerill)
> Subject: Frugal All grain brewing
> Brinkman Cooker: $48 at Meijer.
Oh no, Meijer's in Muncie now. HEh heh. This is regional chain store,
centered in Michigan. It's like a Walmart and a Gorcery store slapped
together. (They often have video rental, hairstylists, and even dentist
offices in them, too.) There's nothing else like them in the world, but
I suspect there are lots of other stores that will carry anything they
have. Meijer advertises "one-stop shopping", though. (Need a brinkman
cooler, a hunting rifle, a crowbar, a gallon of milk, 80 bagels, 14
hamsters, 3 goldfish, a lighting fixture, motor oil, and a new pair of
shoes? At 4 in the morning? Just go to Meijer. And while you're there,
can you return this copy of "Twins" I rented last night...)
-R
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 16:39:08 -0300
From: Tim Martin <TimM@southwest.cc.nc.us>
Subject: Dating Wyeast Packs
Hey Neighbors,
Thank you all for helping me dilute my OG problem from .060
to .045. and sorry for stating it as .60 to .45 but didn't you
know that we "hillbillies" always shorten our vocabulary:^).
My mail order supplier recently sent me a pack of Wyeast
that did not have a date on it. Is this common for Wyeast or
rare? I would hope that Wyeast stamped their own packs
and do not leave it up to the retailers, which I personally
would not trust.
Incidentally, the yeast that I was sent(London 1028) was not
what I ordered (1056). It seems to be working fine. However,
I did notice something odd during primary, there where three
large bubbles the size of cantaloupes or 38-D cup sitting on
top of the foam. The bubbles did not move only sparkle in
the light and the foam and bubbles appeared to have a
viscous or gooey character to them. Anyway, I have never
used this yeast before and my retailer told me I would love it,
after I told him he sent me the wrong yeast. Is this true, will I
love it? The yeast profile is described as minerally, diacetyl.
Sounds awful to me.
All help is used.
TIA
Tim Martin
Buzzard"s Roost Homebrewery
"with that strong predatory taste"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 11:16:02 MDT
From: guym@Exabyte.COM
Subject: "Light struck" hops
Ken Schwartz writes:
> There's been some discussion of light-struck hops here recently. I
> was just wondering whether you brewers who brew outside with your
> gas-fired systems ever have any problem with light-struck hops? A
> hour or so exposure while boiling would seem to be asking for
> trouble, yet no one seems to have this problem. Any thoughts?
Well, I actually brew in the garage with the door open so direct
sunlight does not hit the wort. My problem comes with the hops
hanging on the bines, in full sunlight as they like to be. Skunks the
hell out of them before you can even harvest them. Go figure.
--
Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// guym@exabyte.com
"So barmaid bring a pitcher, another round of brew..."
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 10:26:41 PDT
From: hollen@vigra.com
Subject: Wort canning for yeast propagation
Does anybody have any good methods for getting rid of trub prior to
pressure canning wort for yeast propagation. Currently, I am just
decanting the canned and cooled wort just before use, but I would like
to be able to not have the trub in my canned wort at all. I can mix
it up and heat it and let it sit overnight in the fridge before
rewarming and canning and sterilizing, but I am under the impression
that any re-heating to the temps necessary to produce sterile wort
will produce a "second drop" of trub.
thanks,
dion
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 16:58:57 -0700
From: Orval Jewell <ojewell@thegrid.net>
Subject: trappist ale
Hi All,
Thanks for all of the responses! I had asked about uncompressing the .z
files from the HBD archives. I received many different approaches to my
problem (perhaps due to the many different computer/software platforms)
but, the one that worked for me is to go to the web site:
http://bedrock.ecs.soton.ac.uk/Microcosm/download.html then download
the "gzip for MS-DOS" file. When you use gzip, use a -d switch (for
decompress). The format is: gzip -d <filename.z> then enter. This will
yield an uncompressed ASCII file.
On another note, in his response to my above problem, John DeCarlo noted
that with a name like mine I almost had to be a homebrewer, especially
Belgium brews. Well, as a mater of fact... I would love to have a recipe
for a clone of ORVAL TRAPPIST ALE. At this point I have only produced
partial grain - extract brews. If anyone has a good recipe I would sure
like to try it. Thanks.
Orval Jewell
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 14:54:00 -0500
From: jim.anderson@execnet.com (JIM ANDERSON)
Subject: Question on Water Filter
There's an ad for a water filtration system in my new Heartland America
catalog. Pricewise, it looks like a good deal ($39.99; mfr. sugg. ret.
$174.95). Nevertheless, I'd like to find out if it's suitable for
preparing brewing water, and thought I'd see if anyone has had any
experience with these. The ad reads as follows:
"The Glacier Pure Water Filtration System uses a super efficient carbon
block filter to reduce unwanted taste and odors from your water. It
sits on your countertop and hooks up to your faucet, improving the taste
and smell of your drinking water, while REDUCING [my emphasis] chlorine.
The Glacier Pure installs easily in just minutes. Easy to replace
filter has a life of approximately 5000 gallons (recommended filter
replacement is every six months)."
I'd appreciate comments from anyone who's used this particular brand.
Failing that, perhaps some general comments regarding such carbon
filtration. Positive or negative, I don't care. I just don't want to
buy something, just to stick it in a closet after 2-3 batches. Thanks!
- Jim
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:18:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia@zgi.com>
Subject: copper tubing/pipe
I have recently learned something from which other HBD readers may benefit.
It seems that I am always looking for some sort of brass fitting and the
size designators have always been a source of confusion to me. It turns
out that "tubing" is designated by outside diameter (OD) and pipe is
designated by internal diameter (ID). This means, for example, that
1/2" copper tubing will fit inside 1/2" copper pipe.
So remember when dealing with fittings designed for tubing, e.g., flare
fittings, the sizing is OD and when dealing with threaded fittings the
size is ID.
Domenick Venezia
Computer Resources
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia@zgi.com
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2010, 04/13/96
*************************************
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