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HOMEBREW Digest #1982
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/03/12 PST
HOMEBREW Digest #1982 Tue 12 March 1996
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Calories Revisited (John DeCarlo )
Regulators: two gauges better than one? (Algis R Korzonas)
Hot break removal and rinsing whole hops (Jeff Schroeder)
cornys, fridges (Neal Christensen)
Re: Grolsch type bottles (Jerold Paulson)
malt liquor (Tracy Thomason)
re: Calories in Beer (Bill Kowalski)
re: Recycling Yeast (C.D. Pritchard)
3 liter PET kegs (Tracy Thomason)
Homebrewers in Berlin?? (Jeff Mizener)
Blue Bottles? (Ted Chilcoat)
Carbonation (GREGG)
Grains / beerware (R U St1d?)
Hangovers Ie: Cures (GREGG)
RE: Canadian beer (ugh!) (Al Stevens)
Re: dutched & undutched cocoa (Jim Grady)
Re: which grains need protein rest ? (Mark E. Thompson)
The Best Mash Vessel (Kelly Heflin)
corny kegs (egross)
re: numbers of homebrewers/Mac software (Greg Potts)
Canadian beer (ugh!) (Greg Potts)
Small & Tiny competition (Spencer W Thomas)
Adding yeast at bottling (TPuskar)
Minerals/220/IonX (A. J. deLange)
Newbie Alert! (JIM ANDERSON)
Re: Splitting the process. (Nicholas D. Dahl)
Electric Boilers (KennyEddy)
Royal Oak pale ale (Dan Pack)
Re: Uses for 1 gallon carboys. (Jsutera)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 96 14:05:54 EST
From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo@burp.org>
Subject: Calories Revisited
First of all, let me thank everyone who responded with data or pointers to
data. Most of the messages referred to George Fix's formula for calculating
calories, based on % alcohol by weight, Real Extract, and Final Gravity.
The other main theme was data presented by Kent Tracy in Feb 94 in the
Digest, including a series of tables with Original Gravity on the vertical
and Final Gravity on the horizontal, including one for calories and one for
% calories from alcohol.
This is somewhat related to my poorly worded question, but not exactly, so
let me try again.
First, I find it interesting that the table with calories showed that the
higher the FG, the more calories the beer had (though for instance, at O.G.
1.050, the FG 1.006 =162 calories and FG 1.024 = 171--not much difference).
Dr. Fix's formula implies the same thing to me.
So, I am more interested in data that discusses the expected calories based
on the sources of those calories. As far as I can tell, there are two basic
areas:
1) Ingredients (corn/wheat/malt, fermentables vs. non-fermentables, etc.)
2) Fermentation (how much alcohol the yeast produced, resulting FG, etc.)
I think the previous data presented gives some info on a generic recipe
only concerned with OG or Real Extract, so gives some data for 2). However,
I would still like to better understand how creating alcohol and lowering
the FG results in fewer calories (probably just a result of chemical
reactions that generate heat or something a chemist would understand).
Still, is it really true that it doesn't matter what ingredients you use and
how fermentable they are, except for how that affects the OG and FG? That
may very well be true, but I wouldn't have guessed it. Also, does it
more-or-less assume all barley, or all barley/rice/corn/wheat/rye? What
about if you add sugar or honey or cherries?
Thanks.
John DeCarlo, My views are my own
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo@burp.org
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 13:24:00 -0600
From: korz@pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas)
Subject: Regulators: two gauges better than one?
Art asks:
>Are two gauge regulators better than single gauge?
In my opinion: marginally better. You see, the high-pressure gauge
should warn you when you are running out of gas, right? Well, the
problem is that it does not change (unless you change the temperature)
until all the liquid CO2 has turned to gas. Depending on the size of
the tank, you may have only enough gas for a few pints.
Have you noticed that CO2 tanks are sized by weight? 5#, 10#, 20#...
That's the weight of CO2 that they will hold. Somewhere on the tank is
stamped it's empty weight. If you weigh the partially-filled tank and
subtract off the weight of the tank, you get the weight of remaining CO2.
Now, if you are just using your tank for pouring *yourself* beers, then the
gauge (in my opinion) is perhaps useful. You check the high-pressure gauge
on the regulator periodically and you will see when you may need to buy more
gas. If, on the other hand, you have an upcoming party or are about to
filter your beer from Corny to Corny or you are about to counter-pressure
bottle 5 gallons of beer, your gauge WON'T tell you if you have enough
gas left! You must weigh it to know for sure.
So, knowing that, you can decide if having the second gauge is better.
>Do all regulators come with check valves?
No, but many times, that shutoff valve under the regulator has one.
Don't assume, however... unless you bought it new from someone who
you trust, replace it with one that you know has a check valve.
Incidentally, the 90-degree "pointer" valves that are on my "air [sic]
distributor" (that's what they call it, but it really is a CO2 manifold),
have check valves in them, so you may not need one at the regulator.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz@pubs.att.com
Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 11:27:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Schroeder <jms@rahul.net>
Subject: Hot break removal and rinsing whole hops
A while ago on the Digest there was a discussion about hot break removal and
siphoning wort from the boiler. It seems that with whole leaf hops one can
either whirlpool and siphon/drain from the perimeter of the pot or use a
false bottom or slotted drain pipe and let the whole hops act as a filterbed
for the hot break. (Does the filterbed work with a slotted drain pipe, or
will it clog?)
I have been considering how to implement this for myself, and there is one
point that I don't recall being addressed: In reading Miller's TCHOHB, he
recommends, "Whole leaf hops should be sparged with about 2 quarts of water
to rinse out the sugar they have absorbed." Wouldn't this also rinse out
the hot break they have trapped, sending it right into your fermenter?
What's the "collective" wisdom on this? Do most of you not bother rinsing
whole hops? Is hot break "big" enough to be trapped by a fine mesh filter
screen, such as the plasitc ones that are sold with funnels?
Thanks,
Jeff Schroeder
- --
Jeff Schroeder | jms@rahul.net
San Jose, CA | PGP'ed mail preferred. Finger for key.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 13:28:42 -0700
From: nealc@selway.umt.edu (Neal Christensen)
Subject: cornys, fridges
re: ball-lock vs. pin-lock - They function the same. Ball-lock are somewhat
easier to connect and disconnect, but not much so I wouldn't base my
decision on that. The big difference is the geometry. Ball-lock are taller
and have a smaller foot-print (Art I think you got that backwards). I don't
have trouble reaching the bottom of the taller kegs when cleaning. Base
your decision on what fits the best in your fridge and then on availability
of parts (ball-lock are used by Pepsi, pin-lock by Coke). If you really
want ball-lock fittings, but find that pin-lock kegs store better, you can
replace the fittings on those kegs with the ball-lock type - they have
standard threads.
re: single vs. double gauges - the only advantage of the second gauge
(indicating the pressure in the CO2 tank) is that you get an early warning
of when the tank is about to be empty. In general, as long as liquid CO2
remains in the tank, the gauge will show a constant pressure (that of liquid
CO2 at the ambient temperature). When the liquid is gone, the gauge will
start to drop, indicating you will need to fill it ASAP (I'm not sure, but I
think you could dispense about another 5 gal. at that point). If you don't
have the second gauge, you can get some idea of the amount of CO2 left in
the bottle by its weight. No, all gauges do not come with check valves -
add them to protect your investment.
re: expanding (or exploding) a fridge - I did this, and I am a happy camper.
I was lucky to find a surplus, damaged commercial fridge to start with. It
is about the size of a regular fridge, but it does not have an internal
freezer unit to waste space and the heavy-duty compressor unit is on the top
of the unit. It also has an internal fan and cooling radiator. I think the
commercial grade helped because it probably had a beefier compressor than it
needed for its original size. I doubled the size using plywood, Styrofoam
insulation, caulk, and spray foam insulation. I can put about 18 5 gal.
corny kegs in there at one time. Since I don't have that much beer all the
time (or ever) I keep the space filled with water-filled corny's for
insulation. I can't comment on how well the exiting thermostat would work -
mine is broken so I use a timer to cycle my fridge off enough to de-ice the
compressor unit and I monitor the temp with a thermometer. In the winter I
can maintain a 33 F temp, and in the summer it creeps up to about 38 F. It
is important to think about how moisture will be removed from your expanded
fridge - they do generate a lot. Mine has a drain to the exterior and many
home fridges have drains in the bottom. Just make sure that water doesn't
collect on the floor of your new section with nowhere to go. It is also a
good idea to look for a fridge that is rectangular rather than having
rounded corners. It is a lot easier to mate the new section to the old if
the corners are square. Also, if I built one again, I would place the door
on the side rather than the end for easier access to the contents. I keep
the door closed with a hook because the magnetic seal doesn't seem to work
against the wood frame. Check the Zymurgy article a few years back on this
subject.
Neal C.
Missoula, MT USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 14:12:09 PST
From: Jerold Paulson <mail08863@pop.net>
Subject: Re: Grolsch type bottles
Thanks much to the kind folks who sent me info on where to obtain
Grolsh-type bottles. To return the favour to the Homebrew community I
thought that I'd present a compiled list of the responses.
Great American Home Brew Supplies- 1720 West St.,Southington, CT 06459
203-620-0332 (reported by Dave Chamapagne <dchamp@esslink.com>)
Bavaria South, Inc. 800-896-5403
12 - 1 liter bottles: $30.00
12 - 1/2 liter bottles: $21.00
(reported by Tracy Thomason <tracyt@llano.net>)
Beer In A Box. http://www.mcs.com/~beerinab/beerhome.html.
(800)506-BREW.
(reported by Mike DeRousse <Michael.D.Derousse@att.com>)
And, as observed by many, you can always just buy the Grolsch, drink the
beer, and keep the bottles!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 20:44:42 GMT
From: tracyt@llano.net (Tracy Thomason)
Subject: malt liquor
Can anybody tell me the practical difference in malt liquor and beer/ale?
I had a Paulaner (?) Hefe-Weizen today. It said "malt liquor" on the side
and that got me to wondering.
Anyway, thanks in advance ...
Tracy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 15:13:09 +0000
From: bkowalski@oyo.com (Bill Kowalski)
Subject: re: Calories in Beer
John DeCarlo asks about determining the amount of calories in a particular
beer recipie.
I seem to remember an article in either Brewing Techniques or Zymurgy which
presented a formula for the calorie content of a beer as a function of
starting and finishimg gravities. I think the article was called "Brewing by
the Numbers" and appeared maybe about a year ago (sorry, I'm at work and
don't have access to my copy. If you want the formula, e-mail me).
As far as the question of which has the higher calorie content, unfermented
wort or finished beer, it would seem to me that the first and second laws of
thermodynamics say that the unfermented wort has more calories. The yeast go
through their life cycle and expend energy (which they obtain by
metabolizing sugars in the wort) just by living and multipling. Some of this
energy ecapes from the fermenter as heat, some is lost in irreversible
processes, etc. So at the end of fermentation, you're left with less
potential energy in the form of calories than when you started. Of course,
this is just how I figure it, and I may be completely wrong :-) . If anybody
else has different ideas, lets hear 'em.
BTW, I read an article in Mens Health Magazine last summer which presented
figures for the calorie content of various beers. Some of the figures were
very surprising. For example, a bottle of Salvator is about 400 calories.
It's a good thing I can only drink about 2 of these before I pass out :-) .
Brew On!
Bill Kowalski
bkowalski@oyo.com
Houston, Tx
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 96 16:41 EST
From: cdp@chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard)
Subject: re: Recycling Yeast
JAWeld@aol.com asked in #1976:
Subject: Recycling Yeast
>There was a thread awhile back about freezing yeast in a solution of
>glycerine (glycerol). What is the recipe for that.? How does one prepare the
>frozen yeast for use?
I use the $6.95 Yeast Bank kit from Alternative Beverage- 800-365-2739 (no
connection...). I suspect it's nothing more than glycerine or a solution
thereof. I just revived some 10 month old Wyeast American Ale yeast. It
did take it a couple of days to start fermenting in a +-100 ml starter.
Fresher saved yeast usually starts in a day. I just let the tube of frozen
yeast come up to room temp gradually (I just set it on a counter) then pitch
it.
One thing that helps with freezing the tube of yeast/freeze shield- put it
into a jar of antifreeze that's been in the freezer for a while. The quick
freezing ensures the yeast stays in suspension.
C.D. Pritchard cdp@chattanooga.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 21:32:05 GMT
From: tracyt@llano.net (Tracy Thomason)
Subject: 3 liter PET kegs
Has anyone tried to use the Double-Drafter or TapCap system of 'keggin'
beer in 3 liter PET bottles? I saw an add for it in "Brew You Own" and
they sell it in Brewer's Resource Catalog. I don't have the space for a
dedicated beer fridge and the 3 liter keg system seemed to remedy that
problem (plus it's alot cheaper than the German Party Kegs).
Any pros, cons, advice or comments are appreciated.
Tracy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 96 16:00:55 EST
From: jm@sead.siemens.com (Jeff Mizener)
Subject: Homebrewers in Berlin??
I may be moving to Berlin (as in The Capitol of Germany) Real Soon Now
and would like to know if there is any homebrewing going on there. I had
the address of someone there once, a student, but a hard disk crash cured
that one for me.
Any lurking German Homebrewers out there?
...Ick been eyn Baerlieener... Bald.
Jeff
+------------------------------------+
| Siemens Energy & Automation, Inc. |
| Somewhere near Lizard Lick, NC |
| jm@sead.siemens.com |
+------------------------------------+
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 16:19:17 CST
From: Ted Chilcoat <tedc@crt.com>
Subject: Blue Bottles?
I have a few champagne style bottles that I was thinking of using to bottle
my next ale. The problem is that they are made of blue glass. Are these safe?
Does anyone know if I have to be any more careful of my brew getting
lightstruck than with brown bottles?
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Ted Chilcoat
tedc@crt.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 17:27:37 EST5EDT
From: GREGG@UMS1.Lan.McGill.CA
Subject: Carbonation
I am a beginner homebrewer and do enjoy the process, but haven't
been able to get any decent head or carbonation on my brew. I have
followed my extract kit instructions to a tee, and still very
little carbonation. All other steps seemed to work fine , upto the
comsumption. In Charlie Papazians' "...Joy of Home Brewing" he
suggested "excessive amounts of serilant in bottles or storing at
excessively cool temperatures". I have been careful not to allow
either. I have needed to add corn sugar to the brew to get a head
on it.
Any possible trouble shooting would be appreciated. I know
this may seem trivial to the BrewMeister's I'm addressing but you
were all beginners at somepoint.
Gregg in Montreal
Gregg Dolbec
Information Systems Resources
McGill University
Tel: (514)398-5023
Fax: (514)398-4758
Gregg@UMS1.LAN.McGill.CA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 17:33:22 -0500
From: R U St1d? <rust1d@swamp.li.com>
Subject: Grains / beerware
On the subject of grains and bread, I found this cool site today. They are
a company that produces bread from the spent grains of microbreweries.
http://www.seanet.com/Vendors/spent/
On the software thread, I will be finishing up a foxprow based application
to track and compute recipes. Foxprow runs on Mac, PC and Unix. I can
generate executables for Mac and PC... Nothing special, but I'm a programmer
and gotta write my own, but you might like it too.
If someone could send me e-mail on how to put something on the archive it
would be sweet. TIA.
Brew and Stay cool,
John Varady
Boneyard Brewing
"Now I got a murder rap, cause I bust' your cap with flavor. Pure flavor."
- -- Flavor Flav
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 17:44:46 EST5EDT
From: GREGG@UMS1.Lan.McGill.CA
Subject: Hangovers Ie: Cures
With all this discussion of Homebrews, are there any decent remedies
for the dreaded hangover which sometimes occurs after indulging in a
few too many?
Gregg in Montreal
Gregg Dolbec
Information Systems Resources
McGill University
Tel: (514)398-5023
Fax: (514)398-4758
Gregg@UMS1.LAN.McGill.CA
------------------------------
Date: 08 Mar 96 18:54:27 EST
From: Al Stevens <72704.743@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE: Canadian beer (ugh!)
Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie@ups.edu posts the following rant
> My response to you is: where in the $%#@! do you keep it?
<snip>
> but out west, the beer selection is pathetic.
>With the exception of The Big Rock Brewery in Calgary (which has several tasty
offerings),
>I hate to say it but Canadian beer is repulsive compared to the fine nectar of
Washington and Oregon ales.
Gee Clark,
Let's put things in perspective OK? I wasn't that long ago that you couldn't
find a good beer in the States!
And I'll bet that there are still places that all you would find is BudMilloors.
But, you are somewhat correct about the state of craft brewing in western
Canada, The last time I was out there for a skiing holiday, I asked friends to
bring samples of local beers, Big Rock was the only one producing what I
preferred.
However, that is not the case in the rest of the country. Ontario and Quebec
have many very fine craft brewers. As a matter of fact, one of the best (IMHO)
is just down road from me. ( I live in the country, on a township concession
road, but within 10 minutes drive, there is a beer and wine supply store, and a
microbrewery !).
I'd suggest that widen your sample area a bit before making generalizations
about the biggest country on this continent.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 19:05:02 -0500
From: Jim Grady <grady@an.hp.com>
Subject: Re: dutched & undutched cocoa
In HBD #1979 Chris Kantzes asks:
> I used a LOT of cocoa powder (used the Dutch processed stuff
> too, which may make a difference from the normal US variety).
> Anybody know what difference the chocolate vs. dutch-processed
> cocoa vs. cocoa makes?
According to "The Cake Bible" by Rose Levy Beranbaum (excellent
cookbook BTW):
"COCOA: Cocoa is the pure chocolate liquor with three-quarters of
the cocoa butter removed. The remaining cocoa is then pulverized.
Most European cocoa is Dutch-processed, which means that the cocoa
has been treated with a mile alkali to mellow the flavor and make it
more soluble. There is no need to sift the cocoa for a recipe when
it will be dissolved in water. ...
My favorite Dutch-processed cocoa is Lindt's from Switzerland,
with recently has become available in this country. It comes in dark
and light (I prefer the dark) and is carried by Maid of Scandinavia.
Poulain, Valrho^na, and Van Houten are also excellent Dutch-processed
cocoas. My favorite nonalkalized cocoa is Hershey's. It offers the
characteristic chocolate flavor most Americans grew up adoring.
Smelling the cocoa will tell you a lot about its flavor potential but
the best test is baking a cake with it."
"The Cake Bible", pg 422.
Another source described the Dutch-cocoa as being less bitter.
- --
Jim Grady a.k.a. grady@an.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Medical Products Group
Andover, MA
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Most people think their children are exceptional.
Mine really are.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 15:53:37 PST
From: Mark E. Thompson <markt@hptal04.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Re: which grains need protein rest ?
Full-Name: Mark E. Thompson
> Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 18:48:55 -0500
> From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m@galen.med.virginia.edu>
> Subject: which grains need protein rest ?
>
> Hello fellow brewers
> I have bought 50 lbs of Klages 2 row pale malt and intend to brew
> pale ales with it. Does this malt need a protein rest?
>
> And while we are on the subject is there a FAQ somewhere on what
> grains could use a protein rest and which runs don't ?
I find that you can get away without it. I think that many of the
micros find the same but many filter also.
My usual response to this sort of thing is to try both. Of course
that leads to the next question; which temp protein rest you want to
use, 121df, 135df... Fix said that you shouldn't do one at all with
highly modified malts.
(see http://www-personal.umich.edu/~spencer/beer/FAQ/Fix-mash.html)
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 19:18:18 -0500
From: Kelly Heflin <kheflin@monmouth.com>
Subject: The Best Mash Vessel
All right, Lets all you experienced mashers put your heads together and
help me design the best stainless steel mash pot. I work in a sheet
metal shop and can make whatever we can come up with. I did this about 2
months ago and came up with a 15 inch diameter and 12 inches high. I
have a problem with temp loss, and after reading all the stuff about
grain bed height I want to make another one. Should I go for that 16
inch grain bed height, I punch out a perforated screen for the bottom,
and keep it raised aboiut 1/2 inch, I think that raised amout should be
the minimum maybe 1/4 inch (less water sitting by itself.) use 1/8
diameter holes for the screen, I've never had a stuck sparge problem but
I'm thinking of going smaller to filter more. ( By the way I can make
these screens without too much trouble, to any size, round or square, I
would have to think this is better than the slotted copper pipe method
I've seen, Let me know if you need one.) I also have access to that
spray foam packing material so I can insulate this thing, I saw a
picture of that on someones web page. I also thinking of a thermometer
mounted in it, but I seem to like poking a thermometer all over the
place in diff. parts of the grain ( any thoughts on this).
Any good ideas out there?
Kelly Heflin
kheflin@monmouth.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 21:26:08 -0500 (EST)
From: egross@emory.edu
Subject: corny kegs
Referring to the post regarding Corny kegs:
"pinlock vs ball-lock"
Personally I'd chose ball-lock(pepsi) over pinlock(coke) simply due to the
greater availability of ball-lock though your mileage may vary depending on
where you live. Generally speaking the coke kegs are shorter(by about 2")
but most
people still wouldn't be able to reach the bottom with their hand. I clean
mine with
b-brite followed with an iodophor rinse, when they're really nasty, use
lye but be careful(ie wear gloves and eye protection)
"Sources"
SABCO does not as far as I know deal in used soda kegs, Amber Waves here
in Atlanta(770-384-1448) sells 2.5, 3, 5 and 10 gallon ball-lock kegs at
a reasonable price (around $20 for 5 gallon) and has never steered me
wrong. They sell regulators and such and do ship UPS.
"regulators"
2 gauge is nice but not necessary as CO2 is measured by weight not
pressure so the high pressure gauge is useless except for telling you
when your tank is nearly empty. Most regulators I've seen are dual gauge
and when you buy rebuilt, there's usually no difference in
price. Check valves are optional, you should ask the seller. I would
definitely get the one with a check valve
Lee
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 23:04:18 -0400
From: gpotts@tube.com (Greg Potts)
Subject: re: numbers of homebrewers/Mac software
>Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 14:03:04 CST
>From: korz@pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas)
>Subject: numbers of homebrewers/Mac software
>
>...SNIP...<
>
>In Canada, where the taxes on beer are outrageous, I would guess that an
>even larger percentage of the population homebrew or brew in BOPs. My
>guess is that by now there are well over 1 million homebrewers in North
>America.
Well, that guess is about as correct as you can get. Here in northeast
Toronto, Ontario we have a thriving Brew-On-Premesis industry, and the
Wine-Art franchises aren't doing badly either. Besides which, the Ontario
government limits the distribution of alcohol to its own stores and a Co-op
which is co-owned by Labatt's and Molsons. Or stores operated by the
breweries.
I started brewing my own back in June, and have consistently been able to
produce "premium" beers for 1/3 to 1/2 the price of store-bought beer. And
that's working with extract kits from Wine-Art... '
Oh yes... while I'm here...
Wine-Art carries a line of 1.5 Kg and 1.8 Kg canned malt extract kits,
imported from England's Munton & Fison. Are there many recipes for working
with this sort of material? I really am kinda new at this, and all this
talk of techniques for raking grain beds and 220V heaters sort of scares
me. I thought my beer tasted pretty good...
And as for needing Mac software for brewing .... Amen! I'm running a Power
Computing Clone myself... Although it also came with a SoftWindows
emulator, so it's not the problem it coulda been
Thanks in advance for listening to another paranoid newbie.
gpotts@tube.com
100 Mhz Power Computing 1Gb/16MB/4xCD
Why do we drive on the parkway and park on the driveway?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 23:05:04 -0400
From: gpotts@tube.com (Greg Potts)
Subject: Canadian beer (ugh!)
>From: "Clark D. Ritchie" <ritchie@ups.edu>
From: "Clark D. Ritchie" <ritchie@ups.edu>
Subject: Canadian beer (ugh!)
- snip -
>
> I hate to say it but Canadian beer is repulsive compared to the
>fine nectar of Washington and Oregon ales.
>
>Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie@ups.edu
Now now, that's rather unfair generalizing if you lump all the Canadian
beers together having only been to one or two provinces.
We Canucks get a better selection of beers from other countries than we can
from other provinces, thanks to a longstanding protectionist policy that
blocks brewers from selling beer in provinces where they don't actually
have a brewery. But imported beer is OK? I had never tasted Nova Scotia's
Moosehead until I discovered it in a hotel bar in Dallas.
The trade barriers just fell within the past couple of years. Free trade
with the US & NAFTA forced the provincial barriers down, and they now sell
Moosehead just a stone's throw from here. But the smaller of Canada's fine
breweries (which are likely the better ones...) may not have had time yet
to gain a foothold in western markets.
There is a lot to be said for the Ontario beer scene, with the Upper Canada
Brewing Co, and Sleemans Breweries fighting the hammerlock of Molson &
Labatt/Interbrew. But the "fine nectar of Washington and Oregon ales"
notwithstanding, the country that brought forth "Lone Star" has much to
atone for.
>PS - The flame lives! (or at least changes direction)
... And then some.
gpotts@tube.com
100 Mhz Power Computing 1Gb/16MB/4xCD
Why do we drive on the parkway and park on the driveway?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 01:00:09 -0500
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Small & Tiny competition
This is a reminder and a change notice for the 1996 Small & Tiny Homebrew
Competition. Don't forget to enter! There's plenty of time to brew small
and tiny beers. It's only the big & huge ones that take a long time!
The entry fee has been changed: it's still $5/entry for 1 or 2 entries, but
drops to $4/entry for 3 or more.
And, you can now enter online! Of course, you've still got to send the beers
by UPS or equivalent, but I've put together an on-line form to streamline
the process. You fill it in, and it mails me the entry form, and provides
you with bottle formst ready to print, AND a nice copy of your recipe.
You can find the competition announcement at
http://realbeer.com/spencer/AABG/Small_and_Tiny.html
(or, if you hate to type, http://realbeer.com/spencer/AABG/st.html)
=Spencer in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer@umich.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 07:09:50 -0500
From: TPuskar@aol.com
Subject: Adding yeast at bottling
I mad emy first really close approximation to a lager over the past few
weeks. It is a Pilsner and it has been in the secondary for about 3 weeks
now. The temp has fluctuated somewhat between approximately 55F at its high
to near freezing overnight. I have it in a glass carboy in my garage and
we've had a wierd couple of weeks of weather here in Jersey.
My question is since the temp has fluctuated somewhat over the past three
weeks (oh yeah, the first 8 days of primary fermentation was in glass at a
more constant temp of about 60F--a little high but that's as low as my
basement gets) should I prepare a small starter type culture and add it when
I prime (corn sugar) and bottle? I hate to wait all this long and have the
batch not carbonate. I plan to bottle in another week or so.
Any comments are appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom Puskar
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 10:20:13 -0500
From: ajdel@interramp.com (A. J. deLange)
Subject: Minerals/220/IonX
In #1980 Jerry Lee comments that his ESB made with RO water lacks mineral
flavor. This is because RO water is virtually devoid of minerals and could
thus hardly be expected to contribute to the flavor of the beer. Also note
that Wyeast touts their #1028 - the London - as having a "rich minerally
profile" and, presumably therefore, when that yeast is used these qualities
are enhanced.
You can put together a sort of nominal London water from deionized waterby
adding 78 mg deiodized table salt, 13 mg gypsum, 28 mg chalk (calcium
carbonate)and 60 mg Epsom salts to each litre of water. This will give you
48 mg/L caclium, 18 mg/L magnesium, 38 mg/L sodium, 155 mg/ Lbicarbonate 65
mg/L sulfate and 53 mg/L chloride. After adding all the salts to the water,
bubble carbon dioxide through it from a fine airstone. This lowers the pH
to the point where the chalk can dissolve in immitation of how calcium
carbonate gets into natural waters. Stir and bubble CO2 until pH gets down
into the 5's, then turn off the CO2 and let the mixture rest. Stir
occasionally to rouse undissolved chalk into suspension. The pH will creep
back up as chalk dissolves and CO2 escapes to the air. Repeat the CO2
applications as necessary to keep the pH low. This may take some time. I
have not synthesized London water this way but Burton water took hours to
do. When all the chalk is dissolved (the water is clear) restore the pH to
around 7 by pouring the water back and forth between buckets.
Rather disappointing that I am losing people. Perhaps as my own
understanding increases I will get better at conveying what I am learning.
This isn't rocket science but it is "intricate" (to quote Terry Foster) and
the "devil is in the details" (to quote Ross Perot).
* * * * * * * * * * *
Andy Walsh signs off from Foveaux Street down under. Given the way they
pronounce "renaissance" down there I'd love to hear how they pronounce
Foveaux.
* * * * * * * * * * * * *
Bob want's to know about connecting to the burner receptacle in his stove.
As I recall, these "connectors" are pretty flimsy with the burner contacts
resting on, rather than inerting into, a solid contact. It is certainly
feasible to make the connection but I am sure the NEC would be violated in
several ways. How about the clothes dryer? They are usually 220. Is its
receptacle accessable? Another possibility might be to have a receptacle
mounted to some spare space on the breaker box panel.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
I was a bit under in my recall of prices for the CP ion exchange cartriges.
The "Research" cartridge (the last one in the chain) is actually $67. The
others are somewhat less. The throughput is 7.2 gph and I think the
capacity is about 1000 grains (17,000 mg as CaCO3). In case anyone failed
to detect the sarcasm, I don't actually own any stock in Cole Parmer
(except perhaps through a mutual fund). I suppose I lost my temper there
for which I apologize but at the same time I think the implications leveled
against Dave and Ian are inexcusable and, thus, merit an apology as well.
I'll be watching.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
In this country a Black Mac is called a Next.
A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore!
ajdel@interramp.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 96 07:20:00 -0500
From: jim.anderson@execnet.com (JIM ANDERSON)
Subject: Newbie Alert!
I'd like to introduce myself to this forum. I started homebrewing about
six weeks ago and immediately turned fanatic whilst drinking my first
bottle (actually I drank the beer and saved the bottle -- did I do this
right? <g>). My favorite style is Bohemian Pilsner (a la Pilsner
Urquell) and that's what I've been brewing. My first batch was an ale
and was MORE than satisfactory.
I currently have two batches underway. Both are the exact same recipe
except that one is an ale and the other a lager (for subsequent
side-by-side comparison). I *plan* to stick with ales because
summertime poses a temperature problem here in Utah ... <sigh>.
I bottled the ales on Wednesday, at which time I put the lager into the
secondary vessel and tasted it -- outrageously good! Anyway, though I
think I'm pretty straight on the fundamentals of this craft, I'm eagerly
looking forward to learning some of the finer points from the more
experienced practitioners here. I hope you'll have the patience and
understanding to endure the idiocies of yet one more beginner!
My best to all of you .... Prost!
- Jim
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 10:51:44 -0500
From: ndd3@psu.edu (Nicholas D. Dahl)
Subject: Re: Splitting the process.
My post is a response (and an addendum) to Bob's previous post:
>Esteemed collegues,
> Due to the length of time it takes me to perform the
> entire brewing process (from mashing to pitching),
> I am considering breaking the process into 2 steps.
> Mashing on one day, and boiling the next. I was
> wondering if anyone has had any experience
> with such a procedure andwhat (if any) problems
> should I watch out for.
> TIA.
> Bob.
I posted a very similar question to rec.craft.brewing yesterday, and got
some answers from two acknowledged brewers. They compared it to sour mash
brewing (although that is NOT what I had in mind), but said it could be
done, and to keep them posted on what I come up with.
I'm moving from extract to partial mash brewing, but like many people, just
don't have the time to commit to an "all-day and all-of-the-night" brew
schedule. This is why I'd like to do a partial mash on one evening,
collect the "sweet liquid wort" in a sterile container, refrigerate it
overnight, then do an extract boil the next day, using yesterday's results
as the "second can."
Actually, I think this study has repercussions for brewers who want to move
to all-grain brewing, but do not have the space or want to invest in the
equipment needed to pull off an all-grain brew with extract equipment.
However, like Bob, I'd value all opinions, particularly those who think the
idea is crazy.
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 11:30:49 -0500
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Subject: Electric Boilers
Bob "The Old Fogy" asks about converting the connector on his electric stove
elements to feed an electric boiler, since access to his 240V outlet was
blocked. I would caution anyone considering using electricity for boiliers
to keep the power down not only to avoid scorching but more immediately to
avoid *boilover*. In a 7-gal bucket (11" diam) 2250W led to boilover every
time...1125W kept a nice boil going. One could perhaps get away with a bit
more. Granted, the higher power *is* effective at *heating* the water or
sparged wort, but a compromise at a lower power might lead you to more
convenience and relaxation.
Since inaugurating my 240V electric brewery I have come up with a possible
120V version. From the correspondence I've recieved, it appears that a
workable 120V system would be of great interest to many of you. For
all-grainers, it means about 45 minutes extra (compared with my 240V version)
- -- 30 min extra in heating 5 gal strike water and 15 extra in bringing 6-1/2
gal of ~130F sparged wort (which has cooled to during sparging) to boil. You
can estimate heating times with:
Time (Minutes) = 150*gallons*(deg F rise) / element watts
For a typical household 120V circuit, the breaker will trip at about 15A.
There are probably some 20A circuits scattered around; usually the wiring
gauge is the same (but check with an electrician to be sure this is the case
at YOUR house!), so it might be a simple matter of installing a 20A breaker
in place of the 15A connected to your brewing area outlets. Next, install a
GFI outlet in your brewing area. Now, using two low-density 4500W/240V
elements (State Industries #9000095 works well), wire them as follows. One
element wires directly across 120V (providing 1125W), while the other
connects across 120V but through a DIODE (which blocks the AC flow half of
the time; this gives you half the power or 563W). You'll have a total of
1688W available. The second element should have a switch to remove it and
the diode from the 120V line should you need to reduce the power during
boiling (I don't know if 1688W will boil over). The diode should be 400V /
25A rated (to be safe); DigiKey MB254-ND (1-800-DIGIKEY) or ECG5324 (often
available locally at electronics repair-supply houses -- ask if they carry
"the ECG line") are good candiates. These are bridge rectifiers having four
terminals; use any two ADJACENT terminals and cut off the other two flush.
For you all-grainers, build the HLT exactly the same; a 5-gal bucket should
be adequate (you won't be boiling and it's just water).
Be sure your buckets are at least 0.090" (90 mils) thick (thickness is often
"printed" on the bottom). My HLT is 0.090", and my boiler is 0.100".
I installed my two boiler elements at 90 deg to each other (they "cross"),
one centered at 2" and the other at 4" above the bottom of the bucket. This
arrangement provides more even heat distribution (I suppose). I also
installed a brass fitting for attachment to a valve. ByeBye siphoning.
This system will operate at right around 15A. You could try it on a 15A
circuit; it *might* work but I'd bet you'll trip the breaker. That's why I
suggest a 20A circuit. Also USE A GFI OUTLET ($7-$10 at any hardware store)
to be safe. Insulate the element terminals to avoid touching them.
The plastic beer is nearing primary completion; I'll rack to secondary soon
and swipe a taste then, to see if it's beer.
Wiring diagram:
HI/LO Switch
/ Diode
-----------*------------/ ------[>|-----
- ----| | |
120VAC ELEMENT 1 ELEMENT 2
- ----| | |
-----------*-----------------------------
This gives you 1688W ("HI" - switch closed) for heating (6-1/2 gal heat in
about 1-1/2 hr from room temp or 45 min from sparge temp) and a chioce of
1688W or 1125W ("LO" - switch open) for boiling. Use a plastic spoon. And
NEVER operate the elements unless they are FULLY covered with liquid --
they'll burn to a crisp in SECONDS and could start a fire!!
An HTML document with far too much detail on this electric brewery topic will
be posted soon. I've already posted the GIF illustrations (although my
browser doesn't pick up the colors in the wiring diagrams correctly...
hmmm... download them (ftp instead of http) and view them locally on your
machine:
http://users.aol.com/kennyeddy/plasticbrew/120V.gif
also 240V.gif (240VAC wiring), boiler.gif (240VAC boiler construction),
hlt.gif (240VAC HLT), and stand.gif (sketch of my stand). The vessel
diagrams will be different in wiring than what I presented here but it shows
mounting and other construction details that might be of interest.
E-mail me if you have any questions.
Ken Schwartz
KennyEddy@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 12:34:05 -0800
From: danpack@grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack)
Subject: Royal Oak pale ale
Greetings!!!
First off, a disclaimer. I have no intention or reviving the
"oak in IPA" thread. Any rekindling of this thread is NOT my fault.
I just have a simple question.
With that said...I recently had a bottle of Royal Oak pale ale
from Eldridge Pope. Now, I'm not an experienced beer taster/judge
but I do enjoy an oaky Chardonnay. I thought I detected a hint
of oak in this beer. And that fact, together with the name....
Does anyone know anything about this beer? Possibly aged in oak?
It came to me in a bottle so it was almost certainly NOT shipped
half-way around the world sloshing around in a wooden barrel B^).
Anyway, I enjoyed this beer immensely and if someone can confirm the
use of oak (or not) it might be worth a try tossing some into my
next pale ale.
Thanks in advance,
Dan Pack
Pasadena, CA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 15:56:33 -0500
From: Jsutera@aol.com
Subject: Re: Uses for 1 gallon carboys.
Peter wrote:
>I was walking home yesterday when I spotted several 1 gallon glass carboys
>in a recycling bin. Well, I knew I needed them so I grabbed them. Now that
>I have them, What did I need them for again??
Before you consider what use you have for these carboys I would
consider what they WERE used for. Many chemicals and acids come
in 1 gallon glass containers. If the "carboys" are really 1
gallon wine or growler jugs then they could probably be used for
test batches or a large yeast starter. In either case if the
source is questionable dump them and get new ones from a safe
source.
Joe
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1982, 03/12/96
*************************************
-------
