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HOMEBREW Digest #1954
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/02/06 PST
HOMEBREW Digest #1954 Tue 06 February 1996
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Home Brewers in Maui? (The Bushed Brewer)
kegging - prime or charge/plastic buckets (PVanslyke)
More electric boiler questions (Jeff Hewit)
5L Mini Kegging System (Scott D Riley)
Copper Pipe (Jeff Hewit)
floc in ESB (WattsBrew)
Bottle/Carboy washer problem (dave)
Web Pages have moved / TINIBUw is here ("Dave Draper")
pressurised fermentation (correction) (Andy Walsh)
liquid vs. dry yeast ("Susan M. Muzik")
HBD #1952 - Virus / Foxx Catalog / Other ("Ansley, Dean")
New England Brewpubs/Homebrew recipes (Kate Cone)
galvanized pipes safe? Give me a break... (Adam Rich)
bruheat (Rob Lauriston)
Valley Mill Rollers (John Wilkinson)
Fermenters and dogs (Jim Busch)
aeration, cold break ("Tracy Aquilla")
internet virus - look out - HOAX!! (Jerry Lee)
Blow-off tubes, Yeast pitching rates (dhvanvalkenburg)
Re: Warm Pilsen (Mark E. Thompson)
Re: killians red (Mike White)
RE: Good Times Virus Hoax (Mike White)
re: valley mill (wirwin)
Good Times Virus (Mark Worwetz)
Free list of homebrew suppliers e-mailed to you (Mike White)
Sam Adams Lager (Andrew McGowan )
subcription (Bahia Tours, Inc.)
Well Aged Brew.. (Mike Taber)
Cleaning Carboys (Larry Scott)
H2S and Lagering (Kyle R Roberson)
(U)Good Times....(Just Kidding) ("Rich Byrnes")
Re: Use of Galvanized pipe in RIMS (hollen)
Re: Cleaning a carboy (Bill Rust)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 14:36:46 -0700
From: kirk.nyquist@aecd.gov.ab.ca (The Bushed Brewer)
Subject: Home Brewers in Maui?
I am on my way to maui the end of February. It would be great to meet up
with a tropical home brewer.
Any suggestions on island brew pubs, micros, and home brewers would be
appreciated.
A frosted mug full of advanced thank yous sent to all replys.
______________________________
K.E. Nyquist
(Home) Box 1843 Lac La Biche
Alberta, Canada T0A 2C0
BEER: so much more than just a breakfast drink.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 17:51:54 -0500
From: PVanslyke@aol.com
Subject: kegging - prime or charge/plastic buckets
On the subject of using the 5 gal soda kegs for storage, I have read of
priming the keg much in the same way as if one were bottling. Also I have
read of charging the filled keg with CO2 and letting the beer absorb the gas,
or charge and shake the keg to encourage the absorbtion of CO2.
If anyone has thoughts on which process works best ( I know, different things
work best for different folks ) I would like to see the discussion.
I have read previously about using food grade plastic buckets for primary
fermentation but just the other day J. Matthew Saunders stated that one
should not use a bucket that contained pickles or olives - why?
Paul VanSlyke >>> brewing in Deposit,NY
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 18:18:21 -0500
From: jhewit@freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit)
Subject: More electric boiler questions
Thanks again for all the responses to my query about the
Bruheat electric boiler. I am planning to buy one within the
few weeks. I would like to get some more input on the
connection of the boiler. In my house, the laundry room is off
the kitchen, and I plan to use the dryer outlet for my power
source. I plan to make a heavy duty (12 guage) extension
cord with a dryer plug on one end, and whatever outlet is
needed on the other. Does this sound OK, so far? In previous
discussion on electric boilers, someone (sorry, I forget who)
sugggested including a ground fault interupter (GFI) in the
circuit. This sounds like a good idea, but I'm not sure how to
do this. I went to the local homeowners' outlet, and they had
plenty of GFI-equiped circuit breakers for 120 VAC, but didn't
have a good replacement for the 240 VAC , 30 amp breaker on my dryer
circuit. Does anyone know if such an item exists? If it does,
I should be able to find it at an electical supply house.
Putting the GFI in the circuit box seems like the simplest way
to deal with this. Anyone else have any suggestions? Does
anyone know, for example, if it's possible/practicle to include
a GFI in the extension cord? As always, any suggestions will
be greatly appreciated.
Brew on!
- --
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Hewit Eat a live toad first thing in the morning,
Midlothian, Virginia and nothing worse will happen to you for
the rest of the day.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 17:35:50 -0600
From: Scott D Riley <riley@southwind.net>
Subject: 5L Mini Kegging System
I am interested in comments on the 5L mini kegging system. =20
I am new to home brewing and ready to brew my first batch. I think the =
mini keg system would be ideal for me. It would probably take me 1 or 2 =
weeks to finish a mini keg. They are small enough to fit into the frig, =
and convenient enough that I could let a friend borrow it. =20
I have read through HBD from 1995-present. There seams to be mixed =
opinions on the mini keg system. =20
Being new to homebrewing, I would hate to invest in a system I would not =
be happy with. I don't want to become discouraged and quit brewing. =20
I really like the idea of the mini kegging system but wonder if I would =
be better off with the Party Pig. I have not read much here on the pig. =
=20
I really hate the idea of bottling. I think if I bottle I won't be as =
likely to brew as much. I really need some form of a "mini-kegging" =
system. The corny system is not an option.
Being new to homebrewing I can use all the help I can get.
Thanks-Scott
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 23:02:44 -0500
From: jhewit@freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit)
Subject: Copper Pipe
In a recent posting about the use of galvanized pipe in a RIMS,
Keith Royster mentioned that others had suggested the use of
copper. Keith responded that he needed 1" pipe, and had not
seen copper any larger than 1/2". Larger sizes may not be
available from the standard homewners outlet, but copper pipe
in diameters of 1" and greater does exist, and should be
readily available, in whatever length is needed, from a full
service plumbing supply house.
- --
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Hewit Eat a live toad first thing in the morning,
Midlothian, Virginia and nothing worse will happen to you for
the rest of the day.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 09:42:00 -0500
From: WattsBrew@aol.com
Subject: floc in ESB
David W. Parkin answered Scott in HBD#1952:
>I had a similar problem with an ESB several weeks ago. Buring the boil, I
>noticed a floc come out of suspension that was not hops. This happened at
>170 degrees f. I was well into the process so I thought I should just
>continue. The floc stayed in suspension but settled out in the primary. I
>had calculated the OG to be 1.048 with 6# extract, 1/2# Crystal 10L and 5
>gallons water but it measured in at 1.031 .....
My last batch had a similar result. I also noticed some strange branching
type formation in the boiling pot before it reached a boil and the same thing
in the pot after cooling with my immersion chiller. I used 1# Klages and
1/2# crystal 40L in a minimash with a 6# bag of Northwestern gold syrup. My
boil volume was 3 gallons. I brought it up to 5.5gal in the primary. The s.g.
in the primary fermenter after cooling and shaking to aerate was 1.030. I
chalked it up to stratification. Now I wonder if there is something else.
What type of malt syrup did you use?
I just racked this beer to a secondary yesterday and it tasted fine but the
s.g. was still at 1.017. The primary ferment was 7 days so I'm sure its
done.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 10:43:20 -0500
From: adboccuti@usa.pipeline.com (dave)
Subject: Bottle/Carboy washer problem
I have had a problem with the "Jet carboy bottle washer" ever since I
bought it. The product really does work well, HOWEVER every time I take a
bottle off of the pin, I get a HUGE water hammer. I'm afraid that this will
harm my copper plumbing. (It's also annoying to others in the same home).
I have thought that placing something compliant in the run would help - how
about one of those rubber drain flushers that expands to fit your sink
drain?
Anyone else have one of these and/or this experience (or not)?
- --
Enjoy!
adboccuti@usa.pipeline.com
A. David Boccuti
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 08:35:19 +10
From: "Dave Draper" <david.draper@mq.edu.au>
Subject: Web Pages have moved / TINIBUw is here
Dear Friends, just a quickie to advise anyone out there who cares
that my web pages now have a new home. Everything appears to be up
and running fine as far as I can tell. The new URL for my home page
is
http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/home.html
and for the the beer page is
http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/beer.html
I'd also like to announce that my beer page is the proud Official
Home of Pat Anderson's new Windows program TINIBUw. This is a
Windows version of a DOS-based program I wrote to calculate IBU
levels using Glenn Tinseth's recent utilization data. Pat took the
one or two lines of my code that did the calc and built a very nifty,
easy to use Windows app. It's free, folks, and that's a very good
price (to paraphrase Tom Peterson!). You will find it in the Other
Items Of Interest section of the Beer page.
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
"In my basement, there are cob webs over the fermenter." --Jim
Busch
- ---
***************************************************************************
David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia
Email: david.draper@mq.edu.au WWW: http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/home.html
...I'm not from here, I just live here...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:00:59 +1100 (EST)
From: awalsh@crl.com.au (Andy Walsh)
Subject: pressurised fermentation (correction)
I have a correction to my post on pressurised fermentation.
I said,
>The effect of this process with ale yeast is to increase diacetyl levels.
Fusel oils are not uniformally inhibited by CO2.
This is incorrect. In the paper referred to the fusel oil concentration
(n-propanol, iso-butanol and iso-amyl alcohols) were all decreased with
respect to the control fermentation with ale yeast.
In summary, pressurised fermentation at 2 atm CO2 had the following effects:
slowed ethanol production
reduction in fusel oils
reduced yeast growth
increase in pH
increase of VDKs for ale yeast - no change or decreased VDKs for lager yeast.
My apologies in reposting about this, but I had just skimmed the article
beforehand and got some important information wrong! I thought it was better
to repost with the correct data, after a more careful reading.
Whether this works in a homebrewing setup is indeterminate. Note that the
CO2 pressure was maintained throughout the fermentation. The effect of not
applying pressure until mid-ferment was not discussed in the report. There
is some evidence that the slowed fermentation is responsible for the effects
listed. Agitating a pressurised fermentation increased ethanol production
rate, but also fusel oil levels, for example.
It also appears that a similar effect can be obtained simply by lowering the
fermentation temperature from 20C to 12C. This has the following effects:
temp * fermentation * fusel oil concentration * final cell * final pH* VDKs
* speed (hrs) * n-prop * i-but * i-amyl * number x10e7* * mg/l
*****************************************************************************
20NP * 18 * 14.5 * 52.5 * 86.0 * 9.2 * 4.25 * 0.1
20P * 37 * 6.0 * 31.0 * 69.0 * 7.1 * 4.65 * 0.6
12NP * 58 * 5.0 * 43.5 * 68.5 * 7.5 * 4.55 * 0.6
key:
20NP - 20 degrees C not pressurised
20P - 20 degrees C pressurised to 28psi CO2
12NP - 12 degrees C not pressurised
VDKs = final vicinal diketone & precursor levels. Note that this is measured
after an extended rest period.
n-prop = n-propanol
i-but = iso-butanol
i-amyl = iso-amyl alcohols
We already knew that lowering fermentation temperature slowed fermentation
speed and reduced fusel oil production. It appears that fermenting under
pressure gives a similar (but not identical) result.
I hope I got it right this time!
Andy.
*************************************************************
Andy Walsh from Sydney
email: awalsh@world.net (or awalsh@crl.com.au if you prefer)
I still don't know what a Wohlgemuth unit is.
*************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 16:16:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "Susan M. Muzik" <sumuzik@teleport.com>
Subject: liquid vs. dry yeast
Hello fellow homebrewers,
I am a novice homewbrewer and am puzzled by the fermentation differences
in dry vs. liquid yeast.
Previously I have used a liquid yeast in a foil package #1028 London
English Ale which has a buldge inside that you pop and let sit 24 hrs
before adding to a starter of h20 and malt extract. Fermentation has
always been completed in the 14 days as recommened. No problem.
Feeling brave, or just wanting to test my nerve, this time I used a dry
yeast which was simply disolved in 2 oz warm h20 15 minutes before pitching.
For the first 8 days I saw nothing happening and was growing concerned
that either I missed the entire activity, or it was going to be a total
bust. Finally on day 9 the bubbles were visible in the air lock device
and have continued with regularity since. I am now on day 15 in the
fermeneter. I use a single fermentation process and wonder when I might
expect the activity to subside. Everything I've read indicates to wait
3-4 days after visible activity before bottling/proceeding.
Any suggestions? Besides patience :-}
Thanks,
ptown brewer
sumuzik@teleport.COM Public Access User -- Not affiliated with Teleport
Public Access UNIX and Internet at (503) 220-1016 (2400-28800, N81)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 23:53:00 -0500
From: "Ansley, Dean" <dansley@broc.com>
Subject: HBD #1952 - Virus / Foxx Catalog / Other
Just a note regarding the "Good Times Virus" being reported. This is a
hoax. This has been circulating for more than a year and a half.
Internet mail is sent via the SMTP (Simple Mail Transfer Protocol) which
is simple ASCII text, so a virus can not exist within an "Internet
e-mail", but care should be taken when downloading any file.
Sorry for the waste of bandwidth.
--------------------------------------------------------
Foxx Catalog...
Yes, they do have a catalog. The two sets of phone numbers listed are
Kansas City (800) 821-2254 / (818) 421-3600 and Denver (800) 525-2484 /
(303) 573-1766
--------------------------------------------------------
Does anyone know of a brew catalog program for windows other than Suds?
Thanks,
~Dean Ansley
dansley@broc.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 08:45:49 -0500
From: katecone@maine.com (Kate Cone)
Subject: New England Brewpubs/Homebrew recipes
Hi guys (which is my p.c. way of also including women & that's the only p.c.
statement I'll ever make here):
I'm new to the digest, introduced by Kit Anderson of Bath, Maine (Hi Kit),
who is helping me learn to homebrew & set up my own home brewery.
I'm a writer working feverishly on a project called Pub Tours: A Travel
Guide to New England Brewpubs & Microbreweries for Down East Books of
Camden, Maine, due out in Oct. '96.
I need:
(1) a list of your favorite N.E. brewpubs w/comments about the
beer/s, food, atmosphere;
(2) homebrew recipes from N.E. folks, especially if they've won
awards (make sure you tell me what award & from whom);
(3) this is a long-shot, but if you know anyone from New England who
is even a tad famous/well-known (sports figure, writer, political figure,
etc) and they would like to be featured in the book (quaffing a pint at
their favorite brewpub), contact me off-digest & let me know.
Thanks for your help, and I'm sure I'll be posting more when I begin
brewing!
Kate Cone
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 08:14:58 -0600
From: rich.adam@mayo.edu (Adam Rich)
Subject: galvanized pipes safe? Give me a break...
KBD Community,
I am not a medical doctor so what follows is strictly my opinion. I
will apologize right away for a waste of bandwidth.
However, I can't sit idle when I read stuff like this. Keith thinks
that zinc in his beer, leeched from galvanized pipes, might be good fo rhim.
Well, after a nice treatise on zinc in a persons diet, and the
warning about the effects of too much zinc, Keith concludes that galvanized
pipes must be ok to use.
Where do we learn how much zinc gets into the wort? How do we know
if some other compound in the galvanized pipes is unsafe?
Zinc might not kill us but it could be toxic if the doeses are large?
Hmmm, what conclusion should be reached here?
I don't know about this comment but I sure am suspicious: 'Whats
good for us in small doses must be good for the yeast'.
Let me ask this, are there galvanized pipes in restaurant kitchens
or in residential kitchens? I'll just bet there is a good reason for this
and it isn't some over-reaction.
I sure am glad that Keith is not in my home-brew club.
Adam Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 96 07:19 PST
From: robtrish@mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston)
Subject: bruheat
Bruheat is such a catchy name, that spelling errors would catch a few
different products. My UK product was changed to 120V for the NA market. I
used it with the brewbag of solid sailcloth sides with a mesh bottom. This
maintained such a magnificent variety of different temperatures throughout
the mash that I now use it only for collecting sparge water. I took the
trouble to clad it in wood. But until I add acid to my sparge, this
equipment is useless for me. YMMV, of course.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 09:23:20 -0600
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Subject: Valley Mill Rollers
I have before me a small slick paper brochure from Valley Brewing Equipment.
Under features it lists "Dual knurled stainless steel rollers".
I don't know how current this is or whether the Valley Mill has, had but no
longer has, or never had stainless steel rollers but this flyer or brochure
says stainless.
John Wilkinson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:14:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Fermenters and dogs
Jeff says about open fermentation and dogs:
<It
<works better for me for reasons already explained, but dog hair is a
<really good reason to avoid the system.
My labrador retriever is an integral component of all my brewing,
he insists! Ive come to conclude that he has no negative effects
on my brewing but I dont let him drink right out of the fermenter,
he has to wait till its done!!
Despite being a happy advocate of open fermentation I have to admit
that soon I will be returning to the world of closed fermenters. This
is not due to any problem with years of open fermentation but to my
recent purchase of a unitank. See, I use my lauter tun as my open
fermenter and I have gotten sick of hauling the thing up and down my
basement stairs between my brewhouse and cellar. The unitank will
allow me to control fermenter temps (as well as CIP the tank, spund,
push beer through a rough filter straight into kegs, etc.) This will
also finally free up my lauter tun to be what it is, a dedicated unit.
I hope I still like my beers!
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
Colesville, Md
NO copyright implied or desired, ;-)
A Victory For Your Taste!
Festbier, Lager and IPA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 96 11:35:37 CST
From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla@salus.med.uvm.edu>
Subject: aeration, cold break
In Digest #1952:
"Jonathan Mohn" <jonathan.mohn@AGSM.UCLA.EDU> wrote:
>I have gotten conflicting advice concerning the aeration of my wort.
You'll have that around here. ;-)
>I usually will remove most of the trub from my wort by chilling the wort down
>to 32 degrees, letting it settle overnight, and racking off the trub in the
>morning.
Wow, you really want to get rid of that stuff, eh? I think this is over-kill
and actually, I see no benefit to removing the cold break so completely.
>I've recently read that worts with little trub require considerable
>aeration in order to saturate with the correct amounts of oxygen. In fact,
>I've read that it is not possible to appropriately oxygenate such wort through
>aeration, and that pure oxygen should be introduced.
Over-kill again, IMO. However, I do think there may actually be some benefit
to using pure oxygen, since it's possible to get more O2 into solution, but
I don't really think it's necessary, at least not for me. If I had some cash
to burn I'd probably buy the pure O2, but I'm happy with 20% (air), since
it's still free.
>On the other side of the coin, there are some who believe that aeration /
>oxygenation is not required at all, especially if you pitch adequate levels of
>yeast. They argue that aeration results in longer lag times, as the yeast
>metabolize the sugars aerobically.
I agree with the first part of this statement, but not the last sentence.
Aeration makes the yeast grow faster and thus decreases lag time.
Then korz@pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) wrote:
>Michael writes:
>>[snip] A recent tip said that you should let your wort cool
>>slowly from boil to 130F - this will improve the clarity of the finished
>>beer. Any one else ever hear of this? Any comments?
[snip]
>Actually, the opposite of what the brewmaster claims is true. Cold break
>forms better the *faster* you chill. Most books (DeClerck and Malting &
>Brewing Science, to name two) agree that cold break removal is optional and
>should not affect clarity.
Actually, cold break forms faster the faster you chill. I don't think
chilling the wort faster necessarily gives a "better" break, it just speeds
up the kinetics of precipitation. Solubility is dependent on temperature; to
get "better", more complete precipitation of the cold break, you need to
chill the wort to a lower final temperature. The rate at which this is
accomplished will not significantly affect the total yield, in most cases.
However, if you really want to remove ALL of it, chilling to near freezing
and waiting longer (like overnight) is the best way to go. I remove what
hot/cold break I can from the kettle and leave the remaining cold break in
the fermenter (nutrients, ya know).
Tracy in Vermont
aquilla@salus.med.uvm.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 08:39:05 -0800
From: jlee@esd.ray.com (Jerry Lee)
Subject: internet virus - look out - HOAX!!
What can I say?!?! My systems administrators got me.
This message got forwarded because it was flagged as
critical and I didn't stop to analyze it, actually I
didn't even read it all! And it's not even April...
I'll get even with them somehow...any ideas? I knew
I apologized in advance for something...enough of this
particular thread here! Please leave suggestions for
retaliation on my personal email...but anything
destructive will be politely ignored...Thanx
=====================================================
~~~~~ / \
//\\\\\ / Jerry D. Lee, Jr. | SEPG Methods & Tools Chairman /
{| ~ ~ |} / Raytheon ESD | E-Mail : jlee@eng.esd.ray.com \
| ^ | / 6380 Hollister Ave | Tel : 805-967-5511 ext2306 \
\ = / \ Goleta, CA 93117 | Fax : 805-964-9185 _/
- --/\-/\-- \ \
\/^\/ \+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=|
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 96 08:38:08 PST
From: dhvanvalkenburg@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Subject: Blow-off tubes, Yeast pitching rates
Regarding HBD 1953:
>>Tom Lombardo (favt3tl@rvcux1.RVC.CC.IL.US)
>>Subject: Don't blow off the blow-off
This post was really more about yeast pitching than about
blow-off tubes.
Tom was increasing his pitching rate by doing a starter. The
result required a blow-off tube.
Solution: Get a larger fermenter, and get rid of the
blow-off tube.
----BUT----
Regarding yeast pitching rates, I read the following in
Zymurgy. Since it was very interesting, and short, felt it
was worth putting out on HBD.
Reprinted in Zymurgy, Winter, Vol 18 No. 5.
From: "Effects of Yeast Pitch Rates on Fermentation
Performance and Beer Quality" by Cindy Edelen Presented at the
MBAA Conference, Sept. 1994.
A 1.064 original gravity wort from one production brew was
split between four 10-barrel fermenters and pitched with 12.8,
30.3, 53.8 and 74.9 X 10(to the power of 6--couldn't show this
in txt) viable cells per milliliter, respectively. This is
equivalent to about one-half to four times the normal amounts
used in brewing high-gravity lager beers. fermentation rates
were about two hours faster per additional million cells
permilliliter pitched. <here comes the interesting part>
Increasing the pitching rates resulted in lower IBU levels and
lower free amino nitrogen (FAN) utilization. Higher ester
levels resulted from lower pitching rates. Higher alcohol
yield was found in higher pitch rates, including an increase
in fusel alcohol. Panels found higher hop aroma and hop
intensities in low pitch rates.
------------------------------------------------------------
BTW, I spoke to someone a while back regarding reprinting
articles from Zymurgy in club news letters. The person I
talked to said they didn't mind so long as the reprinting of
any material was not for profit and due credit was given.
Based on this, and the fact that the above was reprinted from
another publication, I don't think they would be offended
with the above post.
------------------------------------------------------------
Cheers
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 8:43:16 PST
From: Mark E. Thompson <markt@hptal04.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Warm Pilsen
Full-Name: Mark E. Thompson
>Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 08:23:17 -0600 (CST)
>From: d2dtinfo@inlink.com (CCGDTWO)
>Subject: Warm Pilsen
>
>Dear HBD Friends
>I have a pilsen clone made up two weeks ago that fremented happily in my
>garage fridge at 45-48F. I thought fermentation was complete when the
>krausen started falling so I was gonna rack to carboy to lager. The SG had
>fallen from 1042 to 1020 so I stirred to rouse the yeast (wyeast 2007) and
>put back into fridge. The temp inside dropped to less that 40F cause the
>garage was 2-3F so I moved the beer to basement 3 days ago at 54-58 mostly
>58F. A new krausen formed indicating renewed fermentation. Now! Do I have a
>steam instead of lager?
No. I think that you just did a diacetyl rest! It could clean up your beer
considerably. Drop the temp back down slowly to 2F now and put it into your
garage for lagering for a month or so.
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:57:19 -0600
From: mike@datasync.com (Mike White)
Subject: Re: killians red
On Fri, 2 Feb 1996 Jason Hartzler wrote:
>i was wondering if anyone out there has a clone recipe for killians red(for
>a friend of mine) or michael sheas(for me).
<<SNIP>>
>either all grain or extract recipes are ok.
I have found that the Red Irish Ale kit sold by Northern Brewer makes quite
a good beer. It may be a good substitute for killians. It has (IMHO) a
slightly smoother flavor than killians and is much more flavorful.
To request a free Northern Brewer catalog, call, fax, write, or e-mail them at:
Northern Brewer
1106 Grand Avenue
St. Paul, MN 55105
612-291-8849
1-800-681-BREW
612-291-2862 FAX
E-mail: nbrewer@winternet.com
- ------------------------------------------------------------
Thought for the day:
There's a thin line between Saturday night and Sunday morning.-J. Buffett
- ------------------------------------------------------------
Mike White
mike@datasync.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:02:35 -0600
From: mike@datasync.com (Mike White)
Subject: RE: Good Times Virus Hoax
On Sat, 3 Feb 1996 Tom Messenger wrote:
>I just read the posting on the "Good Times"virus.
>
>Please note the following:
>
>1. NO such virus exists.
>2. NO such virus COULD exist.
>3. The FCC NEVER repeat NEVER sends out notices to ANYONE about virus
>information.
Sounds to me like someone's sister posed for a nude photo which was
circulated under the title of "Good Times" and they started this rumor in
order to stop circulation of the photo. :)
- ------------------------------------------------------------
Thought for the day:
There's a thin line between Saturday night and Sunday morning.-J. Buffett
- ------------------------------------------------------------
Mike White
mike@datasync.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:31:38 -0700
From: wirwin@envisionet.net
Subject: re: valley mill
I have been following the valley mill thread and would like to add my $.02.
After evaluating several different mills, I selected the valley mill as best
for my needs.
I purchased it in mid December. I have brewed several batches since then.
I am delighted with the performance of the valley mill and I would recommend
it to anyone.
I have no connection with valley mill other than as a satisfied customer.
bill from bill's bathtub brewery, lonetree, colorado
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 09:34:27 -0700
From: MWORWETZ@novell.com (Mark Worwetz)
Subject: Good Times Virus
Howdy from Zion!
The "Good Times" Virus is NOT A HOAX! Every time I hear about the *##^$&^
thing the Homebrew Digest gets infected with dozens of replies informing
us all of the hoax. Don't you get it? The virus is actually the waste
of BW (like this) that goes into the responses! Imagine the brewing wisdom
that could have filled all of those responses! It truly boggles the mind.
Well, I'm off to try to make a Mexican Vienna while drinking my Dopplebock
and trying to keep warm!
Now for the sig police: HOPPY BREWING!
Mark Worwetz (mark@novell.com)
Livin' in Utah, a Pretty, Great Place for the 2002 Olympics!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:32:31 -0600
From: mike@datasync.com (Mike White)
Subject: Free list of homebrew suppliers e-mailed to you
Fellow Homebrewers,
Have you ever had trouble finding that just right grain in just the
right quantity? Have you ever tried in vain to find that certain hard
to find piece of equipment? Well so have I.
So I got busy and did something about it. I am currently working to
compile a list of homebrew mail-order suppliers.
WHAT MAKES THIS LIST DIFFERENT FROM OTHER LISTS ON THE INTERNET:
This list covers only suppliers that meet all of the following criteria:
(1) The supplier must offer a variety of products for home brewing (with a
few exceptions).
(2) The supplier must ship those products anywhere in the continental USA.
(3) The supplier must offer printed catalogs free to those who ask.
(4) The supplier must be based in the United States.
(5) The supplier must have either a toll free number or e-mail address for
ordering copies of their catalogs.
(6) Most importantly, I must have actually seen and held their catalog and
verified the information prior to its entry into this list.
There are reputable companies who do not meet the above criteria, but
generally speaking, they are not the focus of my list.
So...if you would like a copy of the list that has been compiled to date
drop me an e-mail at:
mike@datasync.com
The list is currently about 10 pages long. By the time I finish with it
this spring I expect it will be about 30 pages.
And PLEASE don't send me the names of any companies who are not on the
current list. I already have a list of over 200 more campanies that I am
currently researching. I will ask for the names of companies that have been
left out AFTER I finish this research.
- ------------------------------------------------------------
Thought for the day:
There's a thin line between Saturday night and Sunday morning.-J. Buffett
- ------------------------------------------------------------
Mike White
mike@datasync.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 12:50:40 -0500
From: Andrew McGowan <AMCGOWAN@WPO.HCC.COM>
Subject: Sam Adams Lager
I have searched Cats Meow3 and would really like to clone Sam
Adams (TM) lager. Any all grain recipies or advise would be
greatly appreciated. Private email is fine. TIA.
AMCGOWAN@wpo.hcc.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 12:57:30 -0500
From: bahia@gate.net (Bahia Tours, Inc.)
Subject: subcription
Dear sirs:
Please remove us from your mail list. ASAP
Thank you
Syntia Solomon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:28:15 -0800
From: Mike_Taber@broder.com (Mike Taber)
Subject: Well Aged Brew..
Here is a question that some of you may find a bit silly, but I'm
going to ask it...
I have some beer which was brewed at least 10 years ago by my
ex-wife's grandfather (I don't remember what it is. It is amber in
colour, but I don't remember if it is an Ale or a Lager). I stumbled
across four bottles in my dads garage (he never drank it when I gave
it to him years ago).
Anyhow, I'm wondering if this beer is still good. I know that some
beers don't age well.
It looks nice and clear, the sediment looks normal...
When I pop these open, what should I look for?
- Mike Taber
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 18:48:51 GMT
From: larry_s@ix.netcom.com (Larry Scott)
Subject: Cleaning Carboys
In HBD #1943, Harlan [ crosen@wwa.com (C. Rosen) ] wrote:
[snip]
>THE HARD PART: Lifting a full carboy into the sink. I'm fairly young and do
>construction, so this is not a big deal for me, but anyone with back
>problems, etc., would find the lifting to be a legitamate concern, and
>unless the cruddy part (technical brewing term) is wetted, it's very
>difficult to get it to come clean.
[snip]
Why would you ever lift a _full_ carboy into a sink for cleaning. Way
too dangerous, IMO.
I set the carboy on the counter next to the sink, and fill it using an
a 1" tube just jammed into the faucet. I put a little bleach and a
little tsp into it during the filling, and leave it there overnight.
Next morning I siphon from the bottle into the sink, and then scrub
with the bristle brush if neccessary. Generally it self cleans.
I then pick up and rinse the nearly empty carboy with one of those jet
spray things attached to the faucet. I also always use one of those
orange carboy handles to be sure I've got a good grip.
No straining with a possibly slippery heavy carboy, and a very easy
cleaning.
[I once sliced my fingers when a Sparkletts glass carboy just came
apart in my hands - cut tendons and nerves in one finger - 90%
recovery after surgery. Even though that was 24 years ago when I was
16, I still am _Very_ _Cautious_ when I handle these carboys. When the
glass in these carboys breaks, it's like what happens when a stretched
rubber band breaks. There's a release of tension, and it will actually
fly apart.]
I just offer this because I try to reduce the moving of full carboys
to a minimum, and I wouldn't want to see any other HB'ers get hurt.
Good brewing,
Larry in L.A.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:22:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Kyle R Roberson <roberson@beta.tricity.wsu.edu>
Subject: H2S and Lagering
I use yeasts that produce H2S, or at least a similar rank smell,
during primary fermentation. This smell doesn't end up in the
finished product. I use the lagering procedure outlined by DeClerk
in his two-volume work. Basically, one lagers at 1-2 degrees C and
lets the evolving gases escape for a few days. DeClerk says as much as
7-14 days. Then, "bung it up". That is: close the pressure valve. Set
it at 0.3 atmospheres and leave it there for 2.5-3 months. Filter or
serve as is. I use corny kegs with a relief valve on the "IN" valve.
Once a week or so, I check the pressure and release any excess.
The escaping gas during early secondary fermentation helps to scrub the
oxygen and other gases out. The yeast continue to adjust the gas
composition (Fungbuckett, or stench, disappears as the beer matures).
I think that some of my lagers that smelled the worst during and after
primary tasted the best after a LONG lagering. Impatient brewers would
be well advised to stick to top-fermenting strains!
A question for those still reading...
Anybody have any data on the yeast cells still in suspension in a
naturally clarified lager beer?
Kyle
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 15:35:10 EST
From: "Rich Byrnes" <rich.byrnes@e-mail.com>
Subject: (U)Good Times....(Just Kidding)
Attention all those who read this, you are now hypnotized
by the Good Times Virus, please reformat your hard drive!
When you awake, you will not remember why you did this, that
is all!
Seriously, not to fuel this but anyone who wants more info
on the good times virus (and make no mistake about it, it
is a virus, albeit non-destructive,it is annoying anyways, the
rumor that would not die kinda virus) can find info on this
and many more urban legends ($250 cookie recipes, peanut butter
pooches, etc...) on the web at: HTTP://cATHOUSE.ORG/URBANLEGENDS/
AUFFAQ/ (or ftp cathouse.org/pub/cathouse/urban.legends/afu.faq )
Enjoy!
YOU WILL NOW AWAKE!
Regards,_Rich Byrnes Jr
B&AO Pre-Production Color Unit \\\|///
phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520 (.) (.)
Rich.Byrnes@E-mail.com_____________________o000__(_)__000o
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 96 12:15:29 PST
From: hollen@vigra.com
Subject: Re: Use of Galvanized pipe in RIMS
>>>>> "John" == "Palmer John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com> writes:
John> Keith asked about using Galvanized Pipe as the container for his
John> RIMS Heater. I would definitely not recommend the use of this
John> material for this application based on the propensity for the
John> zinc to dissolve into wort or water due to galvanic
John> corrosion. Plus, as soon at the zinc dissolves away, you will be
John> tasting iron. Frankly, I would use aluminum or Plastic - HDPE,
John> if stainless is not an option.
I strongly recommend AGAINST the use of plastic of any kind. No
matter how careful you are ( my name is really Dion
"yes-there-is-a-dash-in-anal-retentive" Hollenbeck ) you WILL at some
time do something stupid like let the liquid out of the system with
the heater still switched on (yes, I have). In a metal heater chamber
you will get smoke and most likely burned on wort on the element by
the time you notice it. Chances are good that with a plastic chamber
of any kind, you will get a fire. If you were to install some kind of
thermal cutout switch set at around 200F, you may save your chestnuts
from the fire.
John> You know, I bet if you work on it, you could probably find a way
John> to use some inexpensive piece of aluminum or stainless cookware
John> as the chamber. Drill a few holes, put a gasket under the lid, I
John> bet it could work.
John> Bear in mind that I have not built a RIMS unit myself, I am
John> speaking from a materials perspective to the working fluid.
While a good idea, the volume of the chamber is critical. If the
volume exceeds that of a 1 1/2" pipe by too much, the contact time
with the heater will be increased and there is a danger of scorching.
If the volume can be kept down, might just work out.
dion
- --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Senior Software Engineer Vigra, Inc. San Diego, California
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 16:19:51 -0500
From: Bill Rust <wrust@csc.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning a carboy
In HBD #1952, Russell Mast says...
>Whoah now! I know I'm jumping in the middle of this, but is sounds like
>you are complaining about the ease of cleaning a glass carboy. (If you're
>not, I'll explain anyway, it should benefit someone.)
Actually, we were talking about pros and cons of the 'Blow-off method', and
I agreed with JS, that it was more difficult to clean your primary after
using a blow-off, than when using a plastic or steel primary.
>You can clean pretty much ANYTHING out of a glass carboy by letting it sit
>overnight with a strong bleach solution. 1 cup should do it, but you can
>do more if you want. Zap! It's all clean. I don't know if you can do that
>with plastic.
While cleaning carboys in multiple sessions may be easy for some folks, it's
not at all convenient for others. The beer I made was a weizen, and it took
two days of soaking (yes, with bleach) and still required a bottle brush.
Now, I don't know where some folks PITA-threshold is, but that's over mine.
If I had used my other fermenter, I could have had it clean in 5-10 minutes.
That's one session and no need for bleach at all!
I think C. Rosen (in HBD #1953) said it best...
>Let's try to keep the hyperbole to a minimum and refrain from creating silly
>schisms over utterly trivial brewing minutae.
Yeah, what HE said!
BTW, you computer guys never heard of attaching binary files to messages?
You sure as heck CAN spread viruses via e-mail! That doesn't mean that the
virus mentioned is not a hoax, but be careful about calling folks amatures
when we live a world of ever-changing technology. OK, I'll relinquish the
floor in favor of more scientific, cool stuff...
------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Rust | Kwa afya yako Kenya
Master Brewer | Slainthe Gaelic
Jack Pine Savage Brewery | Stin Ygai-sou Greece
Shiloh, IL (NACE) | Cheers Great Britian
------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1954, 02/06/96
*************************************
-------
