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HOMEBREW Digest #1919
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/12/26 PST
HOMEBREW Digest #1919 Tue 26 December 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Southern New York Spring Regional Homebrew Competiton (Ken Johnsen)
Temperature Controller (Douglas Kerfoot)
A question RE: Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale Yeast (Marc Gaspard)
Scotch Ale Recipe (SSeaney)
Homebrew Software Review Needed (SSeaney)
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Date: Mon, 25 Dec 1995 09:54:25 -0500
From: kbjohns@escape.com (Ken Johnsen)
Subject: Southern New York Spring Regional Homebrew Competiton
HOMEBREWERS OF STATEN ISLAND
5th. ann. SOUTHERN NEW YORK SPRING REGIONAL COMPETITION
Sunday, March 24, 1996 - 10:00 a.m.
SCHAFFER'S TAVERN
Victory Blvd. & Bradley Ave.
Staten Island, New York 10314
ORGANIZER Frank Salt (718) 984-0373, eves.
Msg. 718 667-4459 Fax 718-987-3942
E-mail kbjohns@escape.com
ENTRY AND JUDGING HOSI home page URL http:/www.wp.com/HOSI/
request info & forms
The fifth annual Southern New York Spring Regional Competition will take
place on Sunday, March 24th., at Schaffer's. The competition is sanctioned
by both the AHA and BJCP and sponsored by the Homebrewers of Staten Island.
All judging will take place at Schaffer's. Judging will begin promptly at
10:00 am. The first round judging will be a closed session. Best of show
judging will take place, after a lunch break, at 2:00 p.m. and will be open
to the public.
Last years competition brought 157 entries. This year we are expecting a
minimum of 200. As we are in the middle of brewing season most brewers
should have a number of entries.
Schaffer's is located 1/4 mile from the Bradley Ave. exit on the Staten
Island Expressway. Busses run from the Staten Island Ferry. If you need
directions please contact Frank Salt at 718-948-0373 or Ken Johnsen at 718-
667-4459
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Date: Mon, 25 Dec 1995 18:30:47 -0500
From: dkerfoot@freenet.macatawa.org (Douglas Kerfoot)
Subject: Temperature Controller
I have received about 40 messages from people interested in my temp.
controller plans. I will get them put together in the next two weeks and
make them available either on my own home page, one of the public homebrew
FTP sites or both. At that time, those of you with mail access only can
request that I send the plans directly to you. I will post again when they
are available.
I need to clarify that my controller, as currently designed, will control
either a heat source OR a cooling source but NOT both at the same time. In
other words, if it is set to control your fridg and it gets below freezing,
you need to reset the controller (takes 30 seconds) and plug in a heat
source. But fear not, for an extra $10-$15 you can adapt it to control
both. I will include the basic requirements to do this.
As to questions about the damaging effects of light, my solution is using
kegs. If I was using bottles or carboys, I would use towels to cover them
rather than trying to filter the light. A dumped batch of beer is
disapointing, a fire in your fridg will ruin your week.
Greg Walz's idea of using a 100 ohm 225 watt ceramic power resistor is a
good one. I'd be interested in finding out the cost. I am also somewhat
leary of permenantly mounting anything inside my fridg. I am going to
follow his advise on the thermister bulb life extenders. The reason I like
light bulbs is because they are cheap. Also, because my fridg is currently
unplugged, it's nice to have the light come on after I open the door and the
colder air hits the sensor.
I just totalled up my costs and they come to $58.12 (not counting a very
expensive learning curve on my part) Some of the parts I consider optional,
and would bring the price under $50. Because cost is usually an issue for
homebrewers, I will offer several suggestions to bring the price down even
lower.
Doug Kerfoot
(I like beer)
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Date: Mon, 25 Dec 1995 23:09:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Marc Gaspard <mgaspard@mailer.fsu.edu>
Subject: A question RE: Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale Yeast
This is a question for perusers of Homebrew Digest:
Recently I've made 3 batches od Scottish Ale using Wyeast 1728, Scottish
Ale yeast, & I've had the damndest esperience with it. I'm hoping someone
else out there has used it & can give me some advice.
First, I'm trying to duplicate Traquaiar House Scottish Ale, & have
modified a recipe from Cat's Meow. Not to go into the recipe in too much de-
tail, the original gravity on the 1st batch was 1.096, the 2nd 1.078 7 the
3rd 1.080. I pitched with a quart slurry. My problem seems to be rapid
flocculation, ending up with a VERY sweet beer, usually a finishing gravity
of 1.022-25. The 1st batch had to be rebottled with another dose of yeast,
& is very vinuous. The 2nd didn't need another dose of yeast, but is very
sweet & taking its damn sweet time carbonating.
The 3rd is the oddest. The primary fermentation (in glass; all in
glass) went 8 days @ ~66-68 degrees F, & I time airlock bubbles for racking.
The bubbles never went below 10 per second. SO I racked it after 8 days to
get it off the trub & prevent autolysis, & damn if it didn't get faster!
It's now @ 2-3 bubbles per second, & I had to put in a blow-off hose! And
I'm keeping it @ 66-68F before putting it in my beer room @ 50F.
Has anyone out there had similar experience with this yeast, & if so
what did you do about it? If not the same experience, can anyone give me
advice as to either what I'm doing wrong, or varying procedures in using
this yeast? Thanks
Marc Gaspard
mgaspard@mailer.acns.fsu.edu
-
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Date: Tue, 26 Dec 1995 00:05:07 -0500
From: SSeaney@aol.com
Subject: Scotch Ale Recipe
Hello,
I'm going to brew an Export Scotch Ale Thursday. I'd like to get feedback on
my recipe before I start the brew.
I'm planning the following grain and hop bill:
Malts:
0.25 lb. Belgian Special-B: DeWolf
5.00 lb. 2-Row: Maris Otter Crisp
1.00 lb. Munich: DeWolff: German
3.30 lb. Light Syrup: EDME DMS
0.50 lb. Biscuit: Belgium: DeWolff
1.00 lb. Crystal 10L
Hops:
0.75 oz. Willamette 4.0% 45 min
0.50 oz. Saaz 3.5% 45 min
0.25 oz. Saaz 3.5% 90 min
My goal is to get a rich carmel flavor with low alcohol content. I plan on
mashing the extract and grains at about 155 degrees until it passes an iodine
test (experience tells me this could take up to 2 hours). I'll adjust for a
mash pH of 5.1 to 5.4 and a kettle pH below 5.3.
One trick I'd like to try is to bring a small amount (2 qts) of wort to a
rapid boil in a separate pan to help carmelize the wort.
This is my first attempt a a serious Scotch Ale, so I'd really appreciate
feedback from experienced Scotch Alers.
Thanks a lot,
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 1995 00:54:36 -0500
From: SSeaney@aol.com
Subject: Homebrew Software Review Needed
Hello,
I'm considering purchasing software for helping with recipe formulation (all
grain), logging batches, etc. Has there been a recent article comparing
different Windows software packages?
Thanks,
Steve
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1919, 12/26/95
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