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HOMEBREW Digest #1912
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/12/18 PST
HOMEBREW Digest #1912 Mon 18 December 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
VERY foamy brown ale from a keg (lconrad)
Frozen Wort (lconrad)
Infusion Weizen, Wasted Bwith. (Russell Mast)
SAM stuff (Robert Bush)
E.S.B. recipe (Alejandro Midence)
RE:Sake style rice wine ("Kevin T. Riutort")
Re:Is it true that... (Todd W. Roat)
First Recipe Help (michael & karen)
Enough about Jim Koch and his suits (Bruce Conner)
foamy brown ale (John Parker)
Thermometers / Oven Temp (Kxt1215)
Propane stopper ejector (John Wilkinson)
Stone-age lagering (Eugene Sonn)
Re: Gearing up for all grain (Jeff Renner)
RE: IPA and Oak Chips ("David W. Parkin")
Sam Adams Austin Lager (Jim Grady)
oak in IPA ("Tracy Aquilla")
Cap leakage/Pressure differences ("Thomas A. Wideman")
RE:phil's sparge arm (Bill Rust)
splitting boil? (Mike Uchima)
Help! Hunter Temp. Controller Woes (Thomas Williams)
Homebrew Coffee Grinders???? (Stephen_W._Snyder)
re: Question about steam generators (C.D. Pritchard)
RIMS heater pipe (C.D. Pritchard)
NG Water Heater Element (SSLOFL)
What does this have to do with HB (dludwig)
Re/dancing bubbles (dludwig)
brewpubs and Budweiser (FLATTER)
Step Mashing in Picnic Cooler (Michael Genito)
Winter Lager ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
Milk tanks as fermenters (Ulick Stafford)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 17:02:39 -0500
From: lconrad@apollo.hp.com
Subject: VERY foamy brown ale from a keg
I tried it for the first time last night. When poured
through my dandy new tap, it came out almost completely as head - a very
Guinness-like foamy head. It took at least 20 minutes for the beer to
settle down enough for a taste.
What's causing the problem... My beer (very possible, I haven't done this
very many times) My new tap? Any ideas?
This happens to everybody all the time. If your beer tastes ok when it does
settle down, your beer is probably fine. What it means is that the pressure
of CO2 dissolved in the beer so high that when it leaves the keg, it comes out
of solution into millions of little bubbles.
The solution is to relieve the pressure in the keg. You should have bought
kegs with a valve for doing this. (mine is a little ring in the center of the
cap, which I pull to allow the pressure to escape.) You will have to operate
the valve several times, as once you relieve the pressure, then more CO2 can
come out of solution, creating more pressure. Make sure the CO2 tank is not
connected when you do this. If you fill the keg too full, you will have to
wait before doing it again, as the head space in the keg is full of foam,
which oozes, or even gushes, out of the pressure relief valve. I just put up
with my new kegs producing a lot of foam for the first couple of days.
In order to not have the problem next time, you should consider your priming
procedures. I am effectively using my kegs as secondary fermenters (the
fermentation lock is still glugging every 10 seconds or so when I keg). So I
find I don't have to prime at all, and I still get lots of foam.
There is also a lot of folklore about length of line from keg to tap, magic
black line, and maybe some other things. I haven't ever experimented with
these, but I know I have gotten foamy beer from other people's kegs with
various lengths and colors of line.
I believe that the only people who avoid the problem completely are those who
do not use their kegs as secondary fermenters (or transfer to a new keg when
fermentation is complete), and force carbonate very carefully. I find these
procedures more trouble than a little foam.
Anyway, cheer up. Inside of a week you'll be swearing because you have to
apply more pressure to get any head at all. (This is assuming you do what I
do and dispense with the pressure in the keg, rather than keeping the CO2 tank
connected.)
Laura
Snail Mail: ------- Laura Conrad
Hewlett-Packard Co. | / Phone: (508) 436-4243
300 Apollo Drive | / Internet: lconrad@apollo.hp.com
Chelmsford, Ma 01824 | /___ Mail stop: chr-01-fo
|_______ Fax: (508) 436-5117
--------
Home:
(617) 661-8097
233 Broadway, Cambridge, MA 02139
lconrad@world.std.com
Work voice mail: (800) 552-8922 x4243
Reply-To: lconrad@world.std.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 17:28:14 -0500
From: lconrad@apollo.hp.com
Subject: Frozen Wort
Rob writes:
Regarding that wild yeast in my fridge, anythoughts on harnessing it as a
potential "Guelph lambic" yeast or should I just ignore or destroy it? I
suppose I could go to the trouble of finding out what genus and species
it is but that sounds like a lot of work and favours to call in. And
yes I know fermenting with an unknown yeast isn't the safest idea but
where do you think our brewing ancestors got their yeast from, Smack
packs :). It would probably make a lousy beer (or whatever), has anyone
tried this?
When the wild yeast in my refrigerator ferments unprocessed apple cider, it
does a very good job. Quite pleasant flavor, good head, no lambic character at
all. So I wouldn't worry about trying it on a small amount of wort, although
I wouldn't expect to come out with Pilsener Urquell, either.
Laura
Snail Mail: ------- Laura Conrad
Hewlett-Packard Co. | / Phone: (508) 436-4243
300 Apollo Drive | / Internet: lconrad@apollo.hp.com
Chelmsford, Ma 01824 | /___ Mail stop: chr-01-fo
|_______ Fax: (508) 436-5117
--------
Home:
(617) 661-8097
233 Broadway, Cambridge, MA 02139
lconrad@world.std.com
Work voice mail: (800) 552-8922 x4243
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 16:37:21 -0600
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Subject: Infusion Weizen, Wasted Bwith.
> From: Bill Pemberton <wfp5p@tigger.itc.virginia.edu>
> Subject: Decoction for weizen
>
> Is a decoction mash required for a weizen? ...
> If an infusion mash is possible, what about a single step infusion?
The best weizen I ever brewed was a single-step infusion. Would it have been
better if I had used a decoction? Maybe. Was it yummy as heck? You bet.
Of course, I brewed a pretty darned good Bock once with a single step
infusion, but let's
> From: dludwig@ameritel.net
> Subject: Subjects unrelated to Homebrewing
> Here's another solution. How about if everyone who posts, stop first and
> consider whether their post is directly related to homebrewing?
^^^^^^^^
> A lot of bandwidth has be devoted lately to subjects I would consider
> irrelevent to homebrewing. Something to think about. Have a beer! -Dave
^^^^^^^^^^
There's a pretty wide chasm between "directly related" and "totally
irrelevant". The only post *I* have seen lately that is -totally-
irrelevant is YOURS. It certainly isn't about homebrewing, I'm not really
sure what it's about.
If you or anyone has a problem with wasting bandwidth here, I think perhaps
wasting bandwidth isn't the best solution for it. Every post here has a
private e-mail address associated with it. (I know for sure that private
e-mails to me can cut down my posting, but public posts will only draw more
noise out - case in point, this e-mail.)
-Russell, rmast@fnbc.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 23:50:13 +0100
From: bush@shbf.se (Robert Bush)
Subject: SAM stuff
I haven't followed the thread so I won't say much about it, but....
SAM ADAMS
SAM HOUSTON
are similar names. Similar to the original SAMUEL SMITH of Tadcaster,
England that started brewing before Americas first buffalo saw the light of
day.
SAM SMITH should sue the asses of the above, as far as I'm concerned.
Sorry if this is off topic. I'll try not to do it again.
====================================
= WASSAIL! =
= Robert Bush, Eskilstuna, SWEDEN =
= E-mail: bush@shbf.se =
====================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 18:39:04 -0600
From: Alejandro Midence <alex@conline.com>
Subject: E.S.B. recipe
Hi, hbders,
My good friend Mark droped by about an hour ago and brought me a sixpack
of his latest batch, an ESB he calls "batch no. 14" which tasted really
incredible. It was quite complex and I asked or rather begged him to
give me the recipe. Here it is. It's by no means an orthodox *english*
esb but here it is:
ibu: around 32-33
Yield: 5 gallons
Method: extract and specialty grains
ingredients:
6 lbs munton amber dry malt extract
1 lb crystal 40l
1.5 oz. Kent goldings (5.3 alpha) 60 mins
0.5 oz. Fuggles 4.5 alpha 30 mins
1 oz. Tetnanger 5.0 alpha 15 minns
1 oz. czech saaz 3.5 alpha 5 mins
1/2 c cornsugar priming
1 tbsp gypsum
1/2 tsp irish moss
Wyeast 1028 London ale yeast or british 1094 works well
Put crystal in 1.5 gal water and bring to boiling. In a 1 qt vessel,
scoop up some of the water and pour through the grains. He says it's to
get the most flavour out of them. Remove grains and add gypsum. Now, add
dme. Bring water to boil and add goldings hops. Wait thirty minutes and
add Fuggles. Wait twenty minutes and add tetnanger. Five minutes later,
add Saaz which will be boiled for five minutes and then steeped for ten
at 170 dg.
og: 1.050
fg: 1.014
It turned out spectacular, the saaz making it smell wonderfully and the
spiciness of the tetnanger contributing a delightfuly different flavor
than I'm accustomed to in ESB's. It had an wonderful head.
Y'all take care now,
Alex
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Some folk o'er the water think bitter is fine,
And otheres, they swear by the juice of the vine.
But there's nothin' that's squeezed from the grape or the hop
Like the black liquidation with the froth on the top!!!
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 20:38:52 -0500
From: "Kevin T. Riutort" <kevin@rust.net>
Subject: RE:Sake style rice wine
>From: Michael Boenisch <mikebone@charm.net>
>Subject: Sake style rice wine
>
>Does anyone out there know anything about making sake (rice wine)? In Japan
>it's made by beer manufacturers like Kirin. I understand the process is
>similar.
Before I got into home-brewing I talked to a very helpful, but hard to
understand, Chinese fellow in an oriental market in Blacksburg, VA about
brewing my own rice wine. Apparently, many Chinese-Americans home-brew
their own sake (sake, b.t.w., is technically a beer). Here is the crude
process which I followed:
1) Combine two cups of cooked sweet-rice with two cups of water.
2) Place contents in a 1-quart mason jar.
3) Add one package of a chalky, unidentifiable powder recommended by an old
Chinese man. (Available at you local oriental market; presumably some sort
of yeast culture.)
4) Seal lid on jar and place in the refrigerator.
5) Worry greatly about your personal safety when the lid starts to bulge
from fermantation gases.
[Disclaimer: due to the danger of explosion, I do not recommend that the
reader of this article attempt to re-create the above receipe unless you
enjoy glass shards in you neck. This did not happened to me --- but unless
your mason jars are built and designed to ASME Boiler code, it is very
possible that the jars could explode.]
Regarding the home-brewed sake which I made following this gentlman's
directions: it _was_ fermented a liquid; it _did_ have an alcholol content;
it did _not_ taste even close to the commercial product (I liked it and I
drank it :) Knowing what I now know about home-brewint, looking back on the
process it is easy to see why my home-brewed sake differed so drastically
from the sake available in stores.
I have not attemped to brew sake since and I am sorry that I do not have any
further information on the subject other than the above anecdote.
Good luck.
Kevin
================================================================================
kevin@rust.net
================================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 20:42:23 -0500
From: troat@one.net (Todd W. Roat)
Subject: Re:Is it true that...
I posted to my curiosity about having been told: "Beer fermenting in a
carboy is warmer than the air outside due to the chemical reactions taking
place and the energy being produced within." Felt compelled to share the
responses (which were suprisingly many). The majority of the responses
suggested that there would be no significant temp difference, if any, and
suggested I get a thermometer strip to place on my carboy (which I will do)
[ Does this strip thermometer on the carboy measure temp of ambient air, the
glass of the carboy, the beer within the carboy, or all of the above????]
The remainder of the responses (though the minority), thought a 5 degree
difference in temp within the carboy during fermentation was a very
reasonable assumption - several such opinions were from people who fermented
openly (and I dont mean fermented with joyous abandon, in the open so
everyone could see). I must admit and emphasize that I am not particularly
concerned about whether a few degrees difference will "effect" my ales, I
was just curious about the notion after having been told this statement.
And whenever I get a question stuck in my head Im forced to seek the answer
(so I posed the question to encyclopedia brewtanica). In reality, I guess
the answer doesnt matter.
If there are any brewers who use open fermentation and who have a brewsite
whose room temp remains the same despite season and time of day, you could
test this if so inclined :^) Thanks all
"Cherish well your thoughts and keep a tight grip on your booze,
cause thinkin' and drinkin' are all Ive got today"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 22:14:50 -0500
From: michael@bashful.einsteininfo.com (michael & karen)
Subject: First Recipe Help
Hi all.
We have been lurking for a while now but this is our first question to the
collective.
We are new to brewing, about 4 extract batches under our belt. All of
these have turned out great. We just tried our first recipe -- a scottish
ale. We used 6lbs of british light DME, and some specialty malts as well.
We raised the temperature to 180 degrees very slowly to steep the specialty
malts. We followed normal brewing procedures, but it took a long time to
get the wort to a boil, and then cooked it for 60 min. The long and the
short of it is we lost a lot of water to evaporation and the O.G. seemed
very high at 1.065 and it was clearly no longer 5 gal of wort. We added
enough water to bring the SG down to 1.046 and ended up with just about 5
gal of wort. It has been fermenting like wild and just for fun we checked
the specific gravity and it was 1.012 and it tasted a little weak.
Furthermore, it is not done fermenting yet.
Our question is will the flavor get stronger, and if not is there anything
we can do to remedy the situation?
Thanks in advance for any help with this matter.
Michael & Karen
Biohazard Brewing
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 22:52:58 -0500
From: bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner)
Subject: Enough about Jim Koch and his suits
I'm about to stop reading the HBD. Why? Because there seems to be a lot
of bandwidth wasted on back and forth about lawsuits brought by
microbreweries against otehr microbreweries. Am I wrong, or is the the
Home Brew Digest and not the Micro Brew Digest?
I don't care for Jim Koch and his practices, but since he has no bearing on
my homebrewing, I don't see why he is being discussed.
The past actions of Wyeast, on the other hand, are perhaps suitable for
discussion here in HBD. But since that has been hashed to death, what's
the point.
How about we all smile in an evil way and say, "Use a lawyer, go to hell."
Now back to HOMEbrewing.
Bruce Conner
bconner@cybercom.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 23:30:02 -0500
From: jparker@procom.procom.net (John Parker)
Subject: foamy brown ale
>To: jeffries@accessus.net
>From: jparker@mail.procom.net (John Parker)
>Subject: foamy brown ale
>Cc:
>Bcc:
>X-Attachments:
>
> Hello Chris
>
> This reply is from John Parker,Thunder Bay Ont. Canada.
> I also had,and to some degree still do have, at times, problems
with foaming beer from the tap.But it is controllable!
> These are the conditions that I have found that increase foaming.
>
> (1)temperature:I keep my kegs in a refrigerator at 32 degrees F.
> The warmer the beer the more it foams.
>
> (2)pressure:I depense my brew with co 2 at 10 PSI on average, but I
have found that a slightly higher pressure(12-13 PSI)
on a newly carbinated keg works better initially until
the brew starts absorbing the CO 2 I am despensing it
with.When this happens I cut the pressure back to 8 PSI.
>
> (3)despenser hose length:Vertical rise pressure (V.R.P.) states
that one pound of static resistance pressure is required
for every two feet of vertical rise regardless of
transmission line size.All this means is that if your
transmission line (the line from the keg to the tap) is
say ,greater than 5 feet, you need a restricter hose of
3/16 I.D. for the last foot before the tap.Very important!
>
> (4)the tap: When you go to pour yourself a glass of beer, open the
tap fully open, quickly.Throttling the tap causes foaming.
>
> (5)first glass:No matter what you do the first glass of beer you
pour after not using the system for say 12 hrs, will be
half foam.The secound, third,fourth, and so on should be
good.
>
> (6)more technical stuff:The principle of a draught beer dispensing
system is to rapidly fill glasses without sacrifiing
quality. The faucet delivery should be 2.1 to 2.6 oz. per
secound.Delivery speed is determined by propellent pressure
and line restriction.For best results the system should be
balanced within 2 lbs.and gently lifted from the keg to the
faucet.
>
> (7)experiment: A little bit of research along with a little bit of
trial and error,have made my foaming problems
managable.I'm sure the same will hold true for you.
>
> (8)detailed info:I have more detailed information on balancing the
system.the info includes (E.P.) equilibrium
pressure,less than equilibrium pressure,over
equilibrium pressure,(O.P.) operating pressure,(V.R.P.)
vertical rise pressure,equipment pressure (boost
pressure),effects of altitude, and CO 2 saturation
charts, if you are using CO 2 as a propellent,like I
am.
> It would take way to long to type in all this
info.but if your interested I could fax or mail it
to you.
> Unfortunately I don't have a scanner (yet)!
>
> Hoping you find some of
this usefull?
> John
>
> PS: Did you use (Brew Head) or a similar type product in your beer
????????
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 07:57:18 -0500
From: Kxt1215@aol.com
Subject: Thermometers / Oven Temp
In HBD 1908, rbarnes@sdccd.cc writes about discrepancies between a
floating type thermometer and a probe type. The probe indicated higher
temperatures as it was inserted deeper into the wort. One of my duties in
the Navy was to calibrate gages and thermometers, so maybe I can explain
what's happening. First, I am assuming from the description that the
thermometer has a solid, straight probe and is not the alcohol/freon type.
Inside the probe is a bimetallic strip that is attached either directly or
through a gear mechanism to the dial needle. As the temperature changes, the
difference in the temperature coefficients of the two metals in the strip
cause it to deflect, and move the needle proportionately. If the entire
length of the strip is not inserted below the surface of the fluid, the full
length will not deflect and it will read a lower temperature. The probe
should have (at least the ones from the Navy had) a line scribed around the
circumference about 6 to 10 inches from the end. This indicates the length
of the bimetallic strip and must always be submerged in the fluid to get an
accurate reading. It is always a good idea to check the calibration of a
thermometer at least at the freezing and boiling points if these are within
its indicating range. If these are OK, everything in between should be OK.
Calibration screws are located on the dial face and/or back side of the
thermometer. Some are not adjustable and might as well be thrown out if they
are out of calibration ; )
As for maintaining a constant oven temperature for mashing, the oven
thermostat senses air temperature. The mash liquid has a much higher thermal
capacity than air and should remain at a relatively constant temperature even
though the surrounding air temperature fluctuates as the oven cycles on and
off. A thermometer in the liquid is the best indicator.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 08:29:59 -0600
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Subject: Propane stopper ejector
As for the posting by Chris Cooper in hbd #1909,
>..a stopper had been "infused"... I "decocted" the following plan.
>First "sparge" the inverted carboy...with "propane inside" and heat
>to force the stopper out. I'm not sure which would be the best heat
>source, "stove/oven", "steam injection" or a full blown Cajun cooker.
I sure hope you are putting us on.
I don't like to waste space on the Sam Adams thread but Pierre Jelenc had
a good point about the SAM ADAMS BOSTON LAGER, SAM HOUSTON AUSTIN LAGER,
SAM SMITH YORKSHIRE LAGER similarities and who should be touchy. I
particularly like some of the Sam Smith brews but have on occasion
found found myself saying Sam Adams when I meant Sam Smith.
Besides, as a Texan I am particular offended by some clown in Boston
sueing some one in Texas for using the names of two of Texas' most
significant heroes (Sam Houston and Stephen F. Austin). They have
gone too far now! Remember the Alamo!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 09:54:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Eugene Sonn <sonn@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Stone-age lagering
As promised, I've compiled all the suggestions people sent me on how
to lager in a cold, but non-temperature controlled area. Though many
of the suggestions are common sense, several are innovative or at least
important.
First, the brain trust says it's important to know the place you
want to lager in. How much does the temperature change? Are there
any drafts? And if you're going to work in an attic like I plan to,
make sure the floor is strong enough to support all the beer you
plan to put there.
Second, use the right yeast. Wyeast's Czech Pilsner and California
Lager were both suggested. In general, people warned about any yeast
which produces diactyls.
Third, deal with temperature fluctuations in a couple of ways. The
easiest way is wrapping the fermenter in blankets. Many say putting
the carboy in a trash can full of water is a good idea, but if
temperatures could get below freezing ths isn't such a good idea.
One person suggested taking a cotton t-shirt and draping it over the
carboy and setting the shirt in a pan of water. The idea is the shirt
will act as a wick and through evaporation the carboy will keep
cool....this seem's like a great idea for folks in areas warmer than
upstate New York where I live. When considering how to keep the
carboy cool, remember cold basement walls, drafts and other cold
sources can help you keep your beer cool.
Well, that's all the wisdom given by the brain trust on wild
lagering. Thank you all for your messages and I hope this has
helped some of you lurking on the HBD.
I guess I should get back to work...
Eugene
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 09:58:44 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Gearing up for all grain
In HBD 1910, Rob Emenecker <robe@cadmus.com> asked
> I am trying to find something to insulate the pot with.
> It must be easily removable. Ideally, it can remain
> [wrapped] around the pot while it is on my cajun
> cooker. Any ideas out there???
I'm working on a similar problem. I posted a similar question a few
months ago without much luck. But a friend of a friend had some lab
equipment insulated, so I spoke to the guy who did that. He suggested a
flameproof fabric that is used for welding curtains. I thought it
wouldn't have a very high R value, but he said you can weld on top of it
and the heat won't go through. He hasn't got back to me with details,
but he said it was sold by the yard. I figure a velcro closed jacket
would work.
If anyone has additional details on this product, or other ideas, I'd
like to hear.
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 09:07:05 -0600
From: "David W. Parkin" <dwparkin@mmm.com>
Subject: RE: IPA and Oak Chips
I have to say that the responce from Algis R Korzonas in HBD # 1910 was
excellent and quite infomative. You cleared up a few questions I had.
DWP
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 10:48:59 -0500
From: Jim Grady <grady@hp-mpg.an.hp.com>
Subject: Sam Adams Austin Lager
There has been a lot of talk lately about the similarity between
Sam Adams Boston Lager and Sam Houston Austin Lager. According to a recent
post, this is not the issue:
> HOMEBREW Digest #1890 Wed 22 November 1995
>
> From: alan@mail.utexas.edu (Alan P. Van Dyke)
> Subject: Sam Adams redux
> Koch is filing lawsuits left & right
> against just about anyone he can. He threatened to sue a brewpub here in
> Austin for serving Sam Houston Austin Lager. Koch cliamed to own the
> trademark on Sam Houston.
and later:
> HOMEBREW Digest #1895 Tue 28 November 1995
>
> From: alan@mail.utexas.edu (Alan)
> Subject: more SA/Celis
>
> It really works like this. Koch had an intent to use trademark on the
> name "Sam Houston". The way it works is that the keeper of the
> trademark has claims for six months. If the keeper doesn't use the
> trademark, they lose it. Koch never used it; he just kept
> re-trademarking the name. When Waterloo Brewing here in Austin decided
> to use it, Koch threatened to sue. Apparently, Waterloo won out. They
> are still using the name two years later. Since Waterloo doesn't serve
> guest beers, & it's clear in their advertising that they are -not-
> serving Sam Adams, there really is little confusion. Patrons laugh it
> off as a Texified pun. Did you know that Koch also does the same thing
> with the name George Washington & Thomas Jefferson?
According to Alan's post, Koch did not sue because of the similarity in the
names but because he had already trademarked the name that was being used.
- --
Jim Grady
grady@an.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Medical Products Group
Andover, MA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 10:46:52 CST
From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla@salus.med.uvm.edu>
Subject: oak in IPA
In Digest #1910:
korz@pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) says:
>Eric writes:
>>A local homebrew supplier, who was happy to sell me some chips,
>>could not provide any guidance on how to use them.
>>
>>1. What's the proper quantity to add?
>
>In an IPA, NONE. IPAs are not oaky.
Exception: Balantines IPA? I think there was an article addressing this
issue in Brewing Techniques some time last year, but don't quote me on that.
I remember reading about it somewhere, though. Apparently, the only IPA to
have an oaky flavor was Balantines IPA. I guess if you're trying to clone
this beer, you might want to use some oak chips. I wouldn't use much though
(actually, I wouldn't use any).
>>3. Do they require any special sanitation?
I think most folks who do this steam briefly in something like a vegetable
steamer. Using boiling water, even briefly, would probably extract too much
tannin.
Tracy in Vermont
aquilla@salus.med.uvm.edu
------------------------------
Date: 15 Dec 95 11:02:55 EST
From: "Thomas A. Wideman" <75710.1511@compuserve.com>
Subject: Cap leakage/Pressure differences
>>> This is not the first time this has happened. I have taken
>>> homebrew to New York with me that has been well carbonated
>>> here in Ft. Collins (Elevation ~ 5,000 ft) only to find it flat
>>> when I arrive at sea level. Can the pressure difference be that
>>> much to affect the beer?
>><<<snip>>>
>>The pressure difference is only about 2.3 psi from here to down there.
>>Maybe the CO2 leaked away during a plane trip where the pressure is
>>equivalent to ~10,000 ft altitude?
>
>Almost all airliners maintain a cabin altitude below 8,000' MSL. We're
>talking about a relatively small psid compared to the pressure in a
>carbonated bottle. Sounds like a capping problem. Also, the psid
>between the bottle and Ft. Collins (at 5,000 ft) would be _greater_ than
>between the bottle and NY (near sea level), wouldn't it?
>
>Tom Wideman
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 11:35:55 -0500
From: Bill Rust <wrust@csc.com>
Subject: RE:phil's sparge arm
TO: Encylopedia BREWtannica? ...Hmmm, catchy.
Regarding Keith's comment on Phil's Sparge arms...
>I don't have an answer to this, but I do have a related question. Why use
>a rotating spray arm at all? I have always been under the impression that
>you should keep the surface of your grain bed submerged in about an inch
>or so of water when sparging. So trying to evenly distribute the sparge
>water on the surface of the grain bed seems sorta pointless, doesn't it?
> ...Anyone?...Anyone?...Bueller?
Here's a solution for you more frugal types. I use a spray attachment for a
kitchen sink. I got one for $5-6 at Wal-mart and cut the hose off. I
attached it to the spigot of my bottling bucket (tight fit, required hot
water to stretch). If I elevate my bottling bucket with the sparge water
high enough, I get a perfectly spread spray that in no way disturbs my grain
bed. 6-7 batches so far without a hitch!
Hasta Spumanti!
-------------------------------------------------------------------
| After three or four rounds the glint was
Bill Rust, Master Brewer | back in his voice and he was looking at
Jack Pine Savage Brewery | the penguins with the lazy eyes of a man
Shiloh, IL (NACE) | who would not be bored too much longer.
| -Curse of Lono, Hunter S. Thompson
-------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 10:42:00 -0600
From: uchima@fncrd8.fnal.gov (Mike Uchima)
Subject: splitting boil?
I'm a relative newbie (several extract batches) who is thinking of moving up
to all-grain. There's one hitch, though: I have a stove with a "double oven",
i.e. there's a second oven over the rangetop -- this restricts the size of pot
I can use for boiling. The pot I've been using for my extract batches barely
fits, and it looks like there's NO WAY I'll be able to get a pot large enough
to boil 6 gallons of wort on there.
The question I have is this: Are there any potential problems with splitting
the boil into two smaller pots? Can't I just do two 3-gallon boils (in
parallel), and combine them when I transfer to my primary?
- -- Mike Uchima
- -- uchima@fnal.gov
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 12:42:21 EST
From: Thomas Williams <TJWILLIA@VM.OCC.CC.MI.US>
Subject: Help! Hunter Temp. Controller Woes
Can any one help with a Hunter Temp. controller that won't, no way, no how,
allow a temperature drop below 40 degrees F.? Not only does this pose a
problem with cold lagering, but I can't get the beer cold enough for quick
carbonation.
TIA
Tom Williams
Milford,MI
tjwillia@vm.occ.cc.mi.us
------------------------------
Date: 15 Dec 95 12:47:06 EST
From: <Stephen_W._Snyder@metcapw1.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Homebrew Coffee Grinders????
I was shopping for Xmas gifts at Starbucks yesterday and I saw these nifty
adjustable electric coffee grinders. My wife said that she always wanted one of
these, but they seemed too expensive, around $100. But I'm thinking about
grinding grain in these things. Is this a viable option? It said on the box,
"Burr" style grinder. I'm sure this has been covered before, but I can't
remember what the Collective said...
Steve Snyder
Seattle, WA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 13:05 EST
From: cdp@chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard)
Subject: re: Question about steam generators
cerevis@mcs.net (Christopher P. Weirup) asked in HBD 1905:
>Where can I go to get the proper hardware installed on the pressure cooker?
I doubt a decent plumber would tap a domestic, aluminum pressure cooker. The
metal's too thin and the consequences of a failed joint are too severe IMHO.
The local WalMart has a pressure cooker for about $40. In addition to the
usual weighted pressure relief vent, there's also a pressure gauge which is
screwed into a *tapped* hole in the lid. Its made by either Mirro or Presto
and is fairly large (17 qts as I recall).
C.D. Pritchard cdp@chattanooga.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 13:05 EST
From: cdp@chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard)
Subject: RIMS heater pipe
The copper pipe usually used for enclosing the heating element in a RIMS is
over $2/ft AND, around here, you've got to buy at least 20 feet! The
fittings ain't cheap either. Being a cheapskate, I used a 1 1/2" diameter x
12" long chrome plated brass slipjoint sink drain tailpiece. It's the type
with a slight bell at one end which is fitted with a nut. A 1/16" thick
brass washer was made and soldered to the belled, threaded end. The heating
element, with a 1/16" red rubber gasket is placed thru the washer and the
gasket seated against the washer. The nut is screwed on over the element's
head thereby compressing the gasket between the nut and the head of the
element. A bit of oil on the nut helps. The other end of the tube was
capped with a disk of 1/16" brass which was soldered on. 3/8" copper inlet
tube was soldered into a hole in the brass disk and the outlet tube was
soldered to a hole drilled in the tailpiece close to the nut. Haven't
mashed with this heater yet, but it's been run in RIMS mode for 3+ hours at
with pH 5.0 water @ 150-170 degF.
Hoppy Holidays!
C.D. Pritchard cdp@chattanooga.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 16:09:02 -0600
From: SSLOFL@ccmail.monsanto.com
Subject: NG Water Heater Element
I am currently experimenting with a NG hot water heater burner
for a "speed boiler" in my basement. I acquired an old hot water
heater from my friend, and removed the element. One wouldn't need to
bring home a heater and tear it apart in order to experiment with one.
The gas element comes off by unhooking a single fitting and sliding it
out. I would assume that most brands of heaters would be the same way
so one could replace the element if needed. Just keep a crescent
wrench in your vehicle and stop if you see an old heater on a curb!
The gas dryer heater element was a good idea as well, but my friend
didn't have one of those that I could tear apart!
I am going to hook up the element in my basement under a range fume
hood that is vented outside. In the same room, I'm going to install a
CO detector to be safe. I am going to use two in-line valves to
control the gas flow to the burner. The only thing about this setup
is that the burner will have to be supervised while in use. Since I
could not get the safety control to work, one must watch the flame to
make sure it doesn't go out and fill the basement with gas fumes. I
will post my results later.
I strongly suggest that anyone else experimenting with a gas burner
in their home in any way other than it is originally intended should
use a good fume hood and a CO detector. A large purchased range hood
or homemade one should work fine, but make sure it is vented outside!
Cheap range hoods simply filter out particles of smoke and blow the
air somewhere else in the house. As for CO detectors, all will work
but not all are practical for this use. First alert and some others
are excellent detectors, but they are not recommended in this case
because everytime they are set off, they require a new $20.00
cartridge. This could get expensive at startup of a new idea. I
recommend the types that are resettable, so they can be used over and
over without additional costs other than batteries.
Please post any warnings, comments, or other any designs or ideas
pertaining to gas burners on a future HBD. I would leave an internet
address, but I am sending this from work since I don't have access at
home. Our company's connection is terrible, and I don't always get my
messages. I would hate to miss anyone's response.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 23:48:39 -0500
From: dludwig@atc.ameritel.net
Subject: What does this have to do with HB
>BTW, professionally I'm a self-employed consulting engineer, not a
>lawyer. But when you deal regularly with the bottom line, you learn
>fast what you have to do (and not do) to keep from getting into legal
>hassles that force you to deal with lawyers.
>
>Cheers,
>Greg Walz
Really Greg. What does this have to do with homebrew? A lot of eager
homebrewers are out there with beer problems and you and others like
yourself are clogging up the stream of HB info. -Dave
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 00:13:29 -0500
From: dludwig@atc.ameritel.net
Subject: Re/dancing bubbles
>of vinyl hose that runs the wort to my boiling pot. As I run off the wort I've
>noticed 20-30 tiny bubbles forming near the place where the tubing attaches to
>the end of the copper pipe. The only way I can get rid of the bubbles (I've
>tightened everything I can tighten) is to open the valve all the way (which
>will reduce my extraction rate). The other option is to run the wort off in a
>small stream down the vinyl tube as opposed to filling the tube completely and
>having the tiny bubbles.
>
>Which method will oxidize the wort less -
The bubbles are most likely the result of your wort approaching it's the
vapor pressure. That is, entrained gases coming out of suspension due to
reduced static pressure. The low pressure at the tap is caused by the siphon
created when you are running off. If you throttle your flow, then the air
will come out of suspension at the valve. I you don't throttle, the air will
come out somewhere else. Bottom line, the air is already there and the
presence of bubbles is no problem with regards to oxidation. -Dave
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 08:06:49 -0500 (EST)
From: FLATTER@RoseVC.Rose-Hulman.Edu
Subject: brewpubs and Budweiser
An interesting question was discussed in a club newsletter I read recently.
[Thanks, FOSSILS!] What is the general opinion of a brewpub serving other
commercial beers, like Budweiser, along side their handcrafted brews in order
to meet the desires of those accustomed to such a taste? So as not to inhibit
any of the discussion, I won't summarize any opinions voiced any the article.
What do you all think?
Neil.Flatter@Rose-Hulman.Edu
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 08:39:06 -0500
From: genitom@nyslgti.gen.ny.us (Michael Genito)
Subject: Step Mashing in Picnic Cooler
Trying to make things as simple as possible in an all grain brew, does
anyone out there have a simple formula using temp and amount of water to be
added to temp and amount of grain to achieve certain strike temps?
Papazian's CJOHB
mentions adding measured amounts of 200F water to grain to achieve these
temps, but doesn't give a formula and doesnt address temp of grain or mash. TIA.
Michael A. Genito, Director of Finance, Town of Ramapo
237 Route 59, Suffern, NY 10901
TEL: 914-357-5100 x214 FAX: 914-357-7209
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 09:11:39 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A@Lilly.com>
Subject: Winter Lager
For those who, like me, have not been impressed with
most of the Sam Adams offerings, I just bought the
current seasonal "Winter Lager" and was quite surprised.
It is very full in body with a hint of its alcoholic strength,
yet as smooth and pleasurable as a good lager should be.
I'd prefer a little more hop aroma, and maybe a hint more
hop flavor, but all in all this is a terrific and affordable
lager IMHO. Something to remember when your homebrew (gasp) RUNS OUT.
(currently $5/six at the local Osco drugstore chain)
Dave in Indy
From: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036)
To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew@hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com")
cc: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036)
------------------------------
From: ulick@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie
id m0tN7Uw-0006TqC; Wed, 6 Dec 95 00:14 GMT
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 00:14:08 +0000
From: Ulick Stafford <ulick@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie>
Subject: Milk tanks as fermenters
To: homebrew <homebrew@hpfcmgw>
Message-Id: <Pine.3.89.9512060023.E134-0100000@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
I am starting to get together equipment for a cheap microbrewery and
consider secondhand bulk milk tanks to be a good start as fermenters.
However, obviously they are designed for a different purpose so I am
seeking information about people experience using them as fermentation
vessels.
A typical example is around 130 imp gallons (~700 litres). It's circular
and shallow. Has a gentle slope to the outlet and is jacketed and cooled
with a glycol system. There are many available in sizes ranging from
100-300 gallons and bigger, I'm sure. I can see several problems. The
slope is not nearly as steep as in cylindroconical fermenters and so I
doubt if trub and yeast removal will be possible by simple turning on the
tap. Can anyone suggest an alternative short of racking 130 gallons
(shudder), such as muck raking to the side with tap with a large
sanitised muck scraper.
_____________________________________________________________________________
'There was a master come unto the earth, | Dr. Ulick Stafford,
born in the holy land of Indiana, | Wexford Brewing Company,
in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.| Ballyhurst, Taghmon, Co. Wexford
http://www.nd.edu:80/~ulick/ | ulick@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1912, 12/18/95
*************************************
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