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HOMEBREW Digest #1836
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/09/20 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1836 Wed 20 September 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Various (Rian Rademeyer)
Wyeast 1728 Scotch Ale yeast (k.r.stiles)
RI Brew Club (Phil Slotter)
Source for Phosphoric Acid (Jim Overstreet)
Zink Sinc, yeast, yeast, yeast. (Russell Mast)
Chillers/Pubs (Jim Busch)
Harvesting Hops - why dry? ("James S. Bayer")
Re: A-B Originals/Marketing ("Edmund C. Hack")
Mash temp & extract efficiency (Brian Yankee)
MY MAIL STUFFING HBD (Ian Bishop)
Been to Belgium? (Wolfe)
Competition Announcement! (Ray Brice)
more repitching (Dan McConnell)
Carbonator(r)/brewpub laws/lagering ("Wallinger, W. A.")
Brewing & water chemisty question (jsemroc)
Re: A-B Originals (LONG) (Tom Wurtz)
Cleaning CF chillers (Rob Reed)
Re: Open Fermentation in Stainless (Douglas Kerfoot)
HBD Logic (Douglas Kerfoot)
BBCo Contest (Dan McConnell)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 10:10:51 -0200 (GMT)
From: Rian Rademeyer <rrad@lss.co.za>
Subject: Various
Hi HBDers
I have been "lurking" for some time but have not covered ALL the old mail,
so please excuse me if this resurrects old threads. I am a full mash
brewer in Cape Town, South Africa and having designed my brewery in
isolation, I am doing things differently although most of my procedures
seem Okay!(my beer is). Two things I would like to ask/raise are the
following:-
1) Mash Tun. My design is a 10 liter Stainless steel pot which contains
the mash, this is submerged into a food quality plastic bin filled with
68+ C water. The bin is fitted with an electric element and an adjustable
thermostat situated below the SS pot. This allows me to do staged mash,
decoction or a single step mash dependent on style, and maintains or
increases the temp as required. The water from the bin is used for
sparging and the sweet wort later boiled in the same bin. This is a Bain
Marie (warm bath) and works for me as I am lazy and only need to stir once
in a while. I need to increase my mashing quantities, but before embarking
on this design on a greater scale, I would like some comments on extract
efficiencies, from someone who has tried it.
2) Due to us only having stale/expensive stock on our shelves, I buy East
Kent Goldings and Fuggles in the UK on visits and keep frozen. I have been
making a "tea" with the hops and add the residual hop flowers/heads to the
full boil to maximize bitter extraction. Dependant on style, I add the
"hop tea" back to the boil for the final 15 mins or to the secondary
fermenter. I am trying to maximize aroma/flavor from my precious hops.
Any comments on this tea procedure, it works for me but I have not
experimented to any extent. If added to the secondary, it makes the beer
cloudy, but who cares. Also how long does freezing the hops keep oxygen at
bay?
Count yourselves lucky for having a full range of fresh ingredients
available to you, just let me get my hands on some dark malts on my next
visit!
Rian Rademeyer rrad@mail.lss.co.za
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 07:12:55 EDT
From: kstiles@cmos.att.com (k.r.stiles)
Subject: Wyeast 1728 Scotch Ale yeast
Jeff McNally asks about smoky flavor with Wyeast 1728.
A (long) while back I asked about the fermentation characteristics
of Wyeast 1728 Scotch Ale yeast. Wyeast did not give a range
of expected attenuation as it does for other yeasts. Given the
sweet flavor profile of Scotch ales, I expected it to be fairly
unattenuative, which was not what I wanted for a barleywine. This
was wrong - see summary below. I brewed an Old Ale, and liked the
results, so I cultured yeast from a bottle, built a starter, and
brewed a light ale as a starter for the barleywine.
Light Ale Old Ale Barleywine
--------- ------- ----------
OG 1.055 1.070 1.096
FG 1.009 1.011 1.015
A. Att. 84% 84% 84%
Alc(V) 6.0% 7.7% 10.6%
Grist D-W Pils D-W Pils Breiss
rice D-W Caramunich D-W Caramunich
All 3 batches had an apparent attenuation of 84%, which is quite
a bit more than I usually see. Rich, smoky, peaty character? I
could not detect this at all, not even in the extremely clean, dry
"light ale". However, the Old Ale was entered in the National
Homebrew Competition, and one of the judges noted "smoky, peaty",
even though it was entered in the English Old Ale rather than
the Strong Scotch Ale category (I thought the hopping was too
high to enter it as the latter). At any rate, I think the
"smoky, peaty" you get from 1728 will be very subtle compared to
what you'll get from the Hugh-Baird peat smoked malt.
One last point if anyone is interested in using 1728 for a
barleywine and bottle conditions, as I do. Given that 1728
was recommended for a barleywine, I didn't expect any trouble
with a 10.6%vol brew, but my barleywine is flat. Oh, well, it's
interesting that way, too.
-Kevin Stiles
kstiles@zythos.att.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 07:12:46 -0400
From: af057@osfn.rhilinet.gov (Phil Slotter)
Subject: RI Brew Club
Having been a faithful lurker here for my entire brewing career(almost
a year), I finally thought I had something to say.
I jumped into brewing thinking it might be a way to save a couple of
bucks and have some fun in the process. So armed with a handful of
Brewpapers, CP's TCJOHB,a starter kit, an English Bitter extract
recipe (some added grains), and the address to the HBD I went to it.
By the following weekend I had the opportunity to have tasted a few
of the local homebrews, and meet some the small but apparently
growing band of adventurerers like myself . So with the help and
support of my wife, son and the Local Homebrew supply shop,
"The South County Wort Hogs", Rhode Island's largest Homebrew
club was formed! After 7 month's we have over 100 registered and about
40 active members.
We meet every month at a local tavern known for it's selection of beers
and have a style competition and an occasional guest speaker from local
Brewpubs (everything is local in RI).
Our October meeting is going to be an OKTOBERFEST style meeting
on the ocean deck of the Coast Guard House in Narragansett on
Sunday 15 October, with an OKTOBERFEST style competition, Yard and
Half Yard drinking contests and a buffet.
We are trying to get an Oompah band to supply some entertainment
but those guys are really busy this time of year!
For more info contact me in private or call
Horatio at Narragansett Homebrewers Supply at 401-789-3900
Thanks for the bandwidth
Phil Slotter af057@osfn.rhilinet.gov
- --
The Flying Goat Dog House of Brews
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 06:58:38 -0600
From: wa5dxp@mail.sstar.com (Jim Overstreet)
Subject: Source for Phosphoric Acid
Someone asked for an acid source. I buy my 30% Phosphoric acid from
Preque Isle Wine Cellars, 16 oz NF is $4.20, but shipping is about $1.50
or so. Our Mississippi River Water requires almost 2 ml/gallon to bring
the ph to the correct level. Their number is 800-488-7492 (orders).
Item Number PHOS-23.
The local breweries get the stuff in plastic drums, and unit cost is much
lower. I have also seen ads in the back of the Beer magazines advertising
Phosphoric, so you might check there. This sounds like a good candidate
for a club purchase.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 08:49:08 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Subject: Zink Sinc, yeast, yeast, yeast.
> From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna@relay.com
> Subject: Yeast tornado
>
> ... 2 dry yeasts: nottingham and windsor. Pitched the slurry from a
> 3 pt starter.... Is this "normal" fermentation activity for these yeasts?
I don't know the yeasts, but I've had that many times with a large starter.
If the pH & nutrients are right in a mead, it's particularly impressive because
you can see more of the activity. This is one of the more thrilling parts of
making beer, having that "storm in a bottle".
> From: MClarke950@aol.com
> Subject: RE: Repitching & Mailorder/St Pats:
> >I brew a different brew every time so I guess I'll just have to
> >start a new yeast every time also...
> You can "wash" the yeast sediment and save it for a later brew or you
> can pen it up at the yeast ranch until you are ready for it (see the
> yeast FAQ for more info.)
You can also do back-to-back batches which aren't the same style, but similar
enough to use the same yeast. Brew a pilsner, then a bock, re-use the yeast.
Brew a pale ale, then a brown ale. You can't do it every time, but once in
awhile. (As for lagers, those of us relying on natural cooling tend to do
several batches in a row anyway...)
> From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty@msmgate.mrg.uswest.com>
> Subject: Open fermentation insanity
> How about using a deep stainless steel sink?
> ... am I nuts?
Yes, but you've got a great idea.
> Is anyone out there already tried doing this?
Somewhere, and I really can't remember where, I saw a photo of the brewer of
some micro, I think Buffalo Bob's or Buffalo Bill's or something, the guy who
makes a pumpkin ale that's pretty available in 22 oz bottles. This guy was
grinning and leaning over -horrors- a bathtub with a big rocky head on it.
Checking out the background, it's pretty clear that this is -not- in this
guy's john, that's what he's fermenting in, at least for that batch.
Give it a go, and let us know how it works. Maybe wait and hear if anyone has
any 'zinc' warnings or other stuff.
-R
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 10:23:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Chillers/Pubs
Harlan asks about cleaning CF chillers:
<Or lye instead of acid?
Lye, or caustics are the recommended cleaning approach in the industry.
Run hot water, then do a caustic rinse, then hot water, then a acid
based rinse to remove caustic residue (iodophors work well), then
either rinse or run the wort.
Kirk asks a good question about opening a brewpub:
<In regard to building a solid brewpub business Spousal Unit often asks
<"What would make your brewpub's beer any different than the other 100
<brewpubs in Colorado?".
This is an excellent question for all pro brewers to ask themselves
before taking the plunge. Its pretty easy to run out and make standard
(as MJ says, "we have a wheat, a red and a porter") ales using Briess
malts, Wyeast 1056 and cascade hops. I actually like a lot of these
combinations but is it a business approach? No doubt that brewhaus
selection and operation can and will impact the end product. Yeast,
malt, hops and recipes can do even more. Why arent there more German
hefeweizens on the market? How about a Schneider weizenbock like beer?
Why not better Goldings based pale ales? How about a Franconian Kellerbier?
I read in the latest New Brewer that only 10% of US micros are lager
brewers, seems way low to me. A well made Pils or HefePils is almost
heaven. I also feel that German malts are underutilized in the micro
business, and it rare to find a damn good Alt beer.
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 08:24:51 -0500
From: "James S. Bayer" <jbayer@lnb_dev.abn.com>
Subject: Harvesting Hops - why dry?
In HBD 1835 Derrick Pohl wrote:
>Date: Mon, 18 Sep 1995 01:03:59 -0700
>From: pohl@unixg.ubc.ca (Derrick Pohl)
>Subject: Harvesting hops - why dry before freezing?
>One o' those subject-line-sez-it-all posts.
>I've been out picking hops - some I grew, some grow wild nearby beside the
>railroad tracks (not indigenous, probably strayed from an old brewery or
>garden or seeds falling out of train cars full of hops early in the
>century).
>And I'm drying them but wondering - why bother if I'm just going to bundle
>them up good & airtight and freeze them anyway? Why not freeze them fresh?
>Wouldn't that preserve even more flavour?
>Derrick Pohl <pohl@unixg.ubc.ca>
>Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Derrick,
If you read The Homebrewers Companion, C.P. states that frozen "wet" hops have
been found to actually stay fresher longer that dehydrated hops, but a bail of
fresh hops is much heavier than a bail of dry hops, so the commercial growers
dry the hops due to handling costs. I'd add that there is a bit of "tradition"
in the hop growing industry, and drying hops is the way that's always been
accepted.
Why don't you try doing it both ways and let the collective know how it goes.
Just remeber you have to dry the hops before you use them to make beer. Too
many chlorophyl compounds (according to Charlie P.) are in the cones until they
are dried.
Jim Bayer
brewmstr@mcs.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 08:27:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Edmund C. Hack" <echack@crl.com>
Subject: Re: A-B Originals/Marketing
In HBD 1835, Tom Wurtz <tom.wurtz@Xilinx.COM>, wrote on A-B Originals
>
>
> Last night I shuffled through the mail and discovered a mailing from
> none other than my good friends at Anheuser-Busch.
[snip]
> Within the brochure it describes how AB is brewing several new beers
> using the original pre-prohibition recipes. The new "old" brands
> are Faust Golden Lager, Black & Tan Porter, Muenchener Munich style
> Amber, Bock Beer, and Union Man's Favorite. The implication from
> the text is that these beers, unlike post-prohibition beers will
> not use adjuncts. Pardon my skepticism.
>
One of these is out in Texas. The bock, called ZiegenBock is O.K. It is
similar to Shiner Bock in taste. From what A-B said, it is produced at
the plant here in Houston and is sold only in Texas. It runs about $4.75
a six pack. Twist off bottles, of course. The fact that it is an A-B
product is not obvious, BTW.
>
> Anyway, the point is that AB is definitely jumping into the micro-
> market full tilt now. What do I think? Well, I'll admit that if
> AB wanted to, they could generate great beers for a cheaper price
> with incredible consistency. On the other hand they'll probably throw
> a micro price on a beer that's about the same as Henry's.
>
I think that if A-B wanted to, they could flatten most of the regional
micros and give Anchor, Sierra Nevada, Pete's and even the esteemed Jim
Koch <tm>, a hard time. They know how to brew consistent quality beers in
mass quantities.
Given things that I have read in other publications, I'd expect that all
of these beers will be produced with the same yeast as Bud, et.al.
Apparently, keeping the yeast strain pure and uncontaminated is a major
concern for them. However, maybe the alliance with Redhook will give them
access to an ale brewery.
It was also written by "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt"
<FLEMINGKR@afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil> on: Watchout! Long Beer Marketing Rant
[snip]
> In regard to building a solid brewpub business Spousal Unit often asks
> "What would make your brewpub's beer any different than the other 100
> brewpubs in Colorado?". My answer is: the beers themselves would have
> subtle, inherent differences due to formulae which would make little
> or no difference in the business' success. The *real* differentiators
> would be image, atmosphere and service. Comments from professionals
> who actually know what they're talking about are of course solicited!
I am not a pro, but here goes! The Houston Chronicle had a business
section article on brewpubs in Houston yesterday. There are 4 brewpubs in
Houston and one has already shut down, one just opened. The 3 older ones
have had problems that can be summed up this way: "Beer gets them in
once, good food keeps them coming back." All of the older ones have not
met sales projections. Sales are from 50/50 beer/food to 40/60. The local
Rock Bottom chain outlet has the highest sales. Both Rock Bottom and one
of the locally owned outlets have cask-conditioned beer at the bar if you
know to ask for it, BTW. When we first visited Rock Bottom (about a week
after it opened), it was a disaster on the food side. They recognized it
and picked up the tab and gave us a comp meal for our next visit. They
have a lot of competition from excellent beer bars (at least 3 in town
have 100+ taps/bottles) for the beer geek crowd and from many places to
get good, cheap food.
Edmund Hack \ "The great prince issues commands,
echack@crl.com \ Founds states, vests families with fiefs.
Houston, TX \ Inferior people should not be employed."-regnaD kciN
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 12:19:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brian Yankee <byankee@husc.harvard.edu>
Subject: Mash temp & extract efficiency
Does anyone have data/info on the effect of mash temperature on
extract efficiency? My own experience seems to indicate that
lower mash temps produce higher extract efficiency, but I can't
find anything in the standard brewing literature to confirm or
refute this. Thanks for your help.
Brian Yankee
byankee@fas.harvard.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 19:17:01 EST
From: ibishop@tanus.oz.au (Ian Bishop)
Subject: MY MAIL STUFFING HBD
To all members of the HBD. I have been informed by a subscriber that my
.sigfile was affecting the HBD by creating empty messages due to the
word "from" appearing in the first line. Hopefully this message will
see the problem rectified. My apologies for having to waste this
bandwidth but it will hopefully save more in the future.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
Ravings Courtesy Of Ian Bishop - The Mad Muso of Mount Isa, Aust.
I am "Asbestos Man" - Flame Away!
Replies to ibishop@tanus.oz.au or ibishop@ozemail.com.au
- ---
* RM 1.3 A1824 * "640K ought to be enough for anybody." - Bill Gates, 1981
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 11:38 CST
From: Wolfe@act-12-po.act.org
Subject: Been to Belgium?
I may be taking a trip to Europe, and I'd like to hear from anyone who has
visited beer-related points of interest in Belgium and northwestern Germany
(Koln, Dusseldorf, Dortmund). Please contact me via private email.
Ed Wolfe
wolfe@act-12-po.act.org
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 10:12:26 -0700
From: Ray Brice <ray@hwr.arizona.edu>
Subject: Competition Announcement!
ATTENTION BREWERS
You are invited to participate in the 2nd Annual
"Naked Pueblo Homebrew Competition". The
competition will be held Saturday, November 18th
from 10:00 - 4:00 p.m. at the Carpenters' Hall, 606
S. Plumer, Tucson, AZ, 85719. At 4:15 p.m. an
awards ceremony will be held for the competition.
If additional forms are needed, or if you may be
interested in volunteering some time for this
competition, please contact:
Ray Brice Jim Liddil
Competition Organizer Director of Judges
2826 E. Kleindale Rd. or 2332 E. Adams St.
Tucson, AZ 85716 Tucson, AZ 85719
phone: (520) 326-5119 phone: (520) 881-8768
email: ray@hwr.arizona.edu email: jliddil@azcc.arizona.edu
We hope that you will enter your favorite homebrew.
This will be the best opportunity to have your beer
objectively evaluated by AHA and BJCP qualified
beer judges.
Welcome to the 2nd annual Naked Pueblo Homebrew
Competition. This is an AHA and BJCP sanctioned
competition featuring 11 main categories, with 43
subcategories.
Entry Requirements
Entry fees are $3 per entry. Send three (3) bottles
for each entry. Each bottle must be 10 to 14 ounces
in volume, brown or green glass, and be free of
raised-glass or inked brand-name lettering and
paper labels. Clear bottles are not allowed.
Obliterate any lettering or graphics on the cap
with a permanent black marker. Bottles with
Grolsch-type swing tops are not allowed. Bottles
not meeting these guidelines will be disqualified.
On-line Entry
If you have internet access, you can save money by
entering on-line! Using an internet browser (mosaic
or netscape) connect to the following URL:
http://www.hwr.arizona.edu/agu/oph/naked.html and
fill in all appropriate entry fields. Then click on
the Submit button and your entry information will
be automatically recorded and you will be given a
unique competition identification number. Simply
write this onto three pieces of paper and attach
one to each bottle with a rubber band, and mail or
bring your entry to Rillito Creek Brewers Supply
(you will need one unique competition
identification number for each entry). You will NOT
need to submit a hard copy bottle idenfication form
or an entry form. By using this method to enter
your entry fee will be reduced from $3 to $2!
Where and When to Enter
All homebrew competition entries must be turned in to
Rillito Creek Brewers Supply
4775 N. First Avenue
Tucson, Arizona 85718
(520) 293-1740
hours: 12-8 (Tu-Fri), 10-6 (Sat), 12-6 (Sun)
You may deliver them in person or ship them via
UPS. If you plan to ship by UPS, be sure to pack
them carefully. If you need advice on how to pack
your homebrew for shipping refer to the Zymurgy
1993 Spring issue. Your entry/recipe forms must
accompany your beers and each bottle must have a
bottle identification form attached to it. Entries
must be received no earlier than November 6th and
no later than November 17th. They will be
refrigerated until they are judged.
Judging
Judging will be held prior to the awards ceremony
on November 18th, 1995. A complimentary brunch will
be served to judges and stewards from 9:00 - 10:00.
Awards
Awards will be given for "Best of Show" as well as
for 1st place in each category. Winners will be
mentioned in the forthcoming issue of Zymurgy. 2nd
and 3rd place in each category will receive
ribbons. Winners will be announced at 4:15 p.m. the
day of the competition. Judges reserve the right
not to award a winner on any category if no entry
in that category scores at least 25 points.
THANK YOU
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 14:00:25 -0400
From: danmcc@umich.edu (Dan McConnell)
Subject: more repitching
From: MClarke950@aol.com
*>Dan McConnell writes:
*>> I urge everyone to think like a probrewer, not a homebrewer.
*>> REPITCH! That's what the professional brewers do, amateurs
*>> should too.
*
*>Doug Flagg replies:
*>Very good advise, BUT......
*
*>I'm finishing up on a Pale Ale and I want to brew a Pilsner next.
*>What do I do?? Use my Ale yeast dregs to brew the Pilsner. Not!
*
*Dan was sugguesting a way to:
*1) Get the most of your yeast dollar.
*2) Get the desired pitching rates.
*
* Mixing yeasts and styles wasn't his intention. *Of course* you
*would use a different (lager) yeast,
Mike, thanks for succinctly articulating these two important points. I
also suggested that one should use a minimum number of different strains.
So to carry this further, maybe one could adjust the brewing schedule to
brew an ale followed by an ale then a lager followed by a lager.....Of
course, its fun to color outside the lines now and then, fermenting with
the "wrong" yeast. A pilsner wort can be very tasty with an ale yeast.
* I know this will make me flame-bait, but how about some prior planning
*on the buyer's part? If it's important for you to brew on a certain date,
*give yourself plenty of time to receive it.
See you later, Toast.....
As far as repitching yeasts that are not good top-croping strains or
lagers, I have found that the best system (if you don't have a unitank in
your basement) is to use a Brewcap. Clean and simple it works just like a
mini-uni.
DanMcC
"Pass me that bottle and I'll sing you all a real song" JMH
------------------------------
Date: 19 Sep 1995 11:26:11 PDT
From: "Wallinger, W. A." <WAWA@chevron.com>
Subject: Carbonator(r)/brewpub laws/lagering
From: Wallinger, W. A. (Wade)
To: OPEN ADDRESSING SERVI-OPENADDR
Subject: Carbonator(r)/brewpub laws/lagering
Date: 1995-09-19 13:15
Priority:
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CARBONATOR(R) - I use a Carbonator(r) to transport my kegged beer to
parties, friends, etc. I always purge the vapor space with 15 psi CO2 about
5 times (you dilute the oxygen content by about 50% with each 'purge' at
this pressure). So oxidation is not a problem until the oxygen begins to
permeate the PET bottle (which I understand takes a month or two to have an
impact). I keep the PET bottle chilled for a day or two before I take the
Carbonator(r) off and replace it with the regular cap. There is some loss of
carbonation when you do this, but not enough to get me to buy more
Carbonator(r)s. Of course, if you are only transferring to one bottle then,
by all means, keep the Carbonator(r) on until you are ready to pour.
BREWPUB LAWS - You can always compare your local 'harsh' brewpub laws to
that of Mississippi. We not only don't have brewpubs, they are illegal (as
is homebrewing itself, I might add). But relax, don't worry, and offer your
parole officer a homebrew..
NEWBIE LAGERER - I am on my fourth batch of lager. Is the recommended
fermentation temperature for the ambient temperature or for the bulk
contents of the fermenter? In other words, since fermentation generates
heat, do I need to compensate by maintaining an ambient temperature that is
below the recommended fermentation temperature? And I am currently unable to
lager the fermented beer below 40 deg F - is my beer ruined?
WAWA - brewing contraband in Mississippi
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 19:01:38 GMT
From: jsemroc@hpatc2.desk.hp.com
Subject: Brewing & water chemisty question
Help!
I've never been to fussy about water chemistry before.... But recently
I've move into a new home and my water supply is now from a well.
Any guidance regarding pre-boiling water, testing water, trouble to
expect... would be greatly appreciated. I would like to brew an all
grain brew but am considering an extract for my first 'well' brew.
email replies preferred,
Jeff Semroc
jsemroc@hpatc2.desk.hp.com
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 13:58:19 -0600
From: Tom Wurtz <tom.wurtz@Xilinx.COM>
Subject: Re: A-B Originals (LONG)
Due to popular demand I'm posting the entire text of the brochure
I was sent by Anheuser-Busch on their new series of products
ostensibly derived from pre-prohibition recipes. I've been asked
a number of times to provide the 800 number so people can call it
themselves. Unfortunately, I don't have that number with me. But
I don't think it would do any good anyway, since they checked
their database for my name before even asking me questions. Plus
when I tried to get someone to go in my place after I told them
I couldn't make it to their tasting they wouldn't budge even under
some friendly pressure. I believe that since the tastings are
free they are sticking to a specific test market, that being Beers
Across America in this case (I think). Someone also asked what this
organization is. It's one of these receive 2 sixers a month from
various American micros. I received it as a gift from my girlfriend
last christmas. I've found it mildly intriguing and more than a
little bit frustrating because there are strict laws in Colorado
about mailing beer, so they come by at night and drop them off
like it's a fencing operation. But that's beside the point. Anyway,
here goes ... t
[Here's the full text of the glossy brochure. Most of it is
pure marketing hype, but there is some implication of the
quality as well as the makeup of the beer. Note in the
first paragraph the phrase "strongly hopped" and the
implication that corn was only used after prohibition.
Both these statements make me believe that these beers
are going to be all-barley and high hop IBU beers, but
time will tell. AB is pretty obviously full of themselves
in some of this, but not having drank the originals or
these new "originals" its hard for me to make any judgements
yet. I've rearranged some of the stuff to make it a better
ASCII read. After typing this in it seems the marketeer
who wrote this couldn't figure out another word for "variety."
I'm not sure of the copyright rules regarding republishing
advertisements, but I'll say here that this brochure is
probably copyrighted by AB and let's not spread it all over
place, okay?]
Late in the last century, America was flourishing and so was
America's thirst. Adolphus Busch began brewing a variety of
lagers, ales and porters to satisfy the tastes of a growing
and diverse America. These brews were strongly hopped and
flavorful, catering to the day's preference for a strong and
lusty beer. Then came thirteen years of ... Prohibition.
Americans turned to bootleg and home-brewed beers frequently
made with corn which gave these brews a lighter taste and
sweet flavor ... the only taste an entire generation of
beer drinkers knew. Only recently have people begun, again,
to discover the robustness and diversity of America's
orignal beers. Which is why we're brewing the American
Originals, a collection crafted in the style of the turn
of the century brews of Adolphus Busch.
One thing today's beer drinker has in common with yesterday's
is a thirst for a variety of full flavored brews. Based on
records and correspondence preserved in the Anheuser-Busch
archives from Adolphus Busch and his son August A. Busch, Sr.,
our brewmasters have created a series of beers crafted in
the style used in Adolphus' day. Our American Originals are
perfect for today's discerning beer drinker seeking a variety
of styles and tastes in beer. American Originals. Enjoy them
all.
Faust Golden Lager - 1885
Faust is a pale lager with a clean malt flavor and brilliant
deep golden color. We brew this American Original with the finest
dry-roasted and two-row barley, as well as with Bohemian and
Washington State hops. The original Faust was created by
Adolphus Busch for his good friend Tony Faust to serve at
his renowned St. Louis "Oyster House and Restaurant." This special
brand capitalized on "Faust," a popular opera of the period,
about a fifteenth century doctor who "sells his soul" to the
devil for magical powers, but eventually finds redemption. The
red clad figure on the label represents Mephistopheles, the
devil in the opera.
-available October 1995-
Black & Tan Porter - 1899
In 1899 Adolphus Busch brewed an American Porter that he sold
under his trademark Black & Tan. These days, "Black & Tan"
has also come to mean something else (a porter or stout mixed
with a lager). Our Black & Tan, inspired by Adolphus' original,
is brewed as a porter, but with chocolate malt, caramel malt
and two varieties of roasted malt in order to soften the flavor.
We also use five hop varieties, including imported and Washington
state hops. Our American Originals Black & Tan is an extremely
drinkable dark beer with reddish-brown coloration and a slightly
fruity character.
-available October 1995-
Muenchener - 1893
To brew a world-class Muenchener in America at the turn of the
century was a remarkable triumph for Adolphus Busch. Until then,
the best Muencheners were brewed in Munich, Germany (Muenchener
literally means "from Munich"). In 1893, and the Columbian World's
Fair Exposition in Chicago, this Muenchener from St. Louis was
named "The worlds best Muenchener beer." Our American Originals
Muenchener is brewed with five varieties of malt including
munich-style malt, as well as with domestic and Bohemian hops
in the style of Adolphus Busch's original award-winning formula.
-available October 1995-
Bock Beer - 1880
Bock beer is a lager beer - an exceptionally strong-tasting and
flavorful lager, but nonetheless a bottom-fermented brew aged
a bit longer than the traditional lager. It derives its rich
color and drinkability from the use of roasted barley malt.
The horned goat has always been the traditional bock symbol.
This American Originals bock, inspired by the bocks of Adolphus
Busch's day, is a fine example of the bock brewing tradition.
-coming soon-
Union Man's Favorite - 1912
Union Man's favorite was first brewed for the working man in
1912 and served in taverns and bars exclusively on draught.
Working guys would bring a bucket home with them after work.
In fact, beer-carrying pails (called growlers) were generally
available at the tavern to transport brew from the tap to the
kitchen table. Our Union Man's Favorite is a very rewarding
beer - fully flavored, very drinkable and as robust as any
working beer brewed at the turn of the century. UMF is another
proud American Original.
-coming soon-
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 16:58:28 -0400 (CDT)
From: Rob Reed <rhreed@icdc.delcoelect.com>
Subject: Cleaning CF chillers
blacksab@siu.edu (Harlan Bauer) had some CF chiller cleaning ideas a la:
> Why not fill the CF chiller with vinegar
> and soak overnight <snip> Also, now that I'm thinking about it,
> why not run some sulfuric acid drain-cleaner thru it and rinse profusely.
> Maybe then some vinegar? Or lye instead of acid?
I use a strong citric acid solution to clean my chiller after a dozen
batches or so. Citric acid in bulk is cheap and I use about 1/4 C per
gallon. I add a cup to four gallons of boiling water and flush out
my chiller for 5-10 minutes. After a couple of gallons, I disconnect
the unit from the kettle and blow out the hot citric acid solution with
CO2. A lot of "brown slimy goo" (tm) comes out. I repeat this process
in 10 minute cycles until the chiller flows clean. The CO2 blowout
helps purge all of the gunk in the chiller more quickly than simply
flowing the citric acid solution through it.
BTW, I maintain a boil on the kettle while the citric acid solution
is flowing into the chiller and the chiller water jacket is has no
water in it.
Between major periodic cleanings as described above, I sanitize the
chiller with 3 gallons of One-Step solution (1 Tbsp/gallon hot water)
over a 30 min. period prior to use. I have had good luck with this
regimen, for about 50 batches.
Cheers,
Rob Reed
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 22:11:39 -0400
From: dkerfoot@freenet.macatawa.org (Douglas Kerfoot)
Subject: Re: Open Fermentation in Stainless
>From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty@msmgate.mrg.uswest.com>
>Subject: Open fermentation insanity
>
>How about using a deep stainless steel sink?
If you are willing to risk open fermentation, why spend the money on
stainless? Surely anyone who is even considering open fermentation should
not be afraid of plastic. Or, if you keg, just don't put the lid on. Last
week, when I did not have an airlock handy, I just wraped a little tinfoil
over the top of my carboy. Worked like a charm!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 22:11:35 -0400
From: dkerfoot@freenet.macatawa.org (Douglas Kerfoot)
Subject: HBD Logic
Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com> writes:
>When I was extract only, I would get a fair bit of foam in my boils. Not as
>much as all-grain, but more than you describe. Maybe you're not boiling
>vigorously enough?
I love HBD logic: Obviously, if you are not experiencing a problem, you must
be doing something wrong.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 22:38:09 -0500
From: danmcc@umich.edu (Dan McConnell)
Subject: BBCo Contest
I can't believe that this has not yet been posted...I got this in the mail
Saturday. I'm in a hurry so don't expect details- go see your homebrewshop
owner.
Samuel Adams is sponsoring the 1995 World Homebrew Contest
Entry deadline: Nov 6-10
Entry fee: none
Each entrant to receive: 1/2 lb kent goldings, tee-shirt, and a piece of paper
First round winners go to Boston and brew their beer
Three overall winners (lager, ale and mixed style) go to one of the cool
beer areas of the world (Germany, Belgium, UK...)
Six runners up get $2000 to go to GABF or AHA Nationals
Final round winner's beer becomes a BBCo. product and the originator gets
$5000/year as long as the beer is in production.
Sounds win/win to me.
Interesting notes:
The beers must be adapted to BBC yeasts which means that the lagers must be
fermented at 58-62F. Hummmm.
Beers must be less than 6% EtOH so that the states do not interfere with
distribution.
DanMcC
As long as Keith Richards is alive *I* can have one more beer
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1836, 09/20/95
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