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HOMEBREW Digest #1814
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/08/25 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1814 Fri 25 August 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Back Online (AGAIN) (The Mercenary Hacker)
Hailing Rob Wallace/MM Motorization ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
Gas grill to propane burner?/I_want_my_HBDeeeeeee (Brian Pickerill)
Mt Hood aroma? / Thermometer Q (Dave Draper)
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Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 02:37:03 -0600
From: The Mercenary Hacker <rdg@hpfcmgw>
Subject: Back Online (AGAIN)
The digest is back up and operational on hpfcmgwfc.hp.com. There was
one additional glitch a few days ago with my aliases file, and so any
articles or requests sent in before about 9:00 AM Eastern Time, on
Thursday, August 24, are in limbo and should be resent.
Rob
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 95 12:16:00 MST
From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR@afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil>
Subject: Hailing Rob Wallace/MM Motorization
In a fairly recent HBD Rob Wallace requested info from those who
had successfully motorized the MaltMill (tm). I tried mailing to
Rob for the results of his research but my msg to him bounced.
I've also searched past HBD issues (which is tough without a search
engine up and running, hint, hint) but couldn't even find articles
I know I've read. For example, I remember folks discussing optimum roller
RPMs once.
So...if you have had first-hand experience I'd like to know about your
results, or if you know of any sources of info regarding MM motorization,
please point me in the right direction.
Finally, since one unit to be motorized will be used in a supply
shop, I'd like all ideas regarding safety switches, drive clutches,
shear-type shaft keys, etc., that would help avoid horrible disfiguring
accidents and/or a broken mill. I'm thinking a hopper lid lockout
switch, for example.
KRF Colorado Springs
------------------------------
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu
From: 00bkpickeril@bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill)
Subject: Gas grill to propane burner?/I_want_my_HBDeeeeeee
Hi,
I talked my SO into a real, charcoal grill. So, I have an old gas grill
sitting around unused. Looks like a prime sacrifice to the brewing gods.
Each time I look at it I snarl, wishing it was a king cooker type burner.
I have some stove grates that would easily hold my 1/2 barrel cooker. I
have some concrete blocks. I am ready to take apart the grill and attempt
to use the burner and the gas regulator, supply, etc... parts for making
beer. The only problem is that the burner isn't shaped that well, and the
air intake setup is designed for the grill. (Of course) Does anybody know
of a cheap ($10) source for propane burners? Any easy way to construct
one? Warnings about how I am about to blow myself up in the process? ;-)
- ----
Everybody got the new address? I'm jones'n here. (subject sung as in the
Dire Straights/Sting song...)
- --Brian K. Pickerill <00bkpickeril@bsuvc.bsu.edu> Muncie, IN
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 07:44:34 +1000
From: david.draper@mq.edu.au (Dave Draper)
Subject: Mt Hood aroma? / Thermometer Q
Dear Friends, hope this comes through to the new posting address OK. Got a
couple of quick questions.
Mt Hood hops: As I understand it, this variety has mild, subtle aromatic
qualities, and together with middlin' AA (what I'm getting is 5 to 5.5%)
makes it a good, versatile hop. Not long ago I made a sort of hybrid brown
ale (grain bill to emulate Wee Heavy and used 1728 Scottish but hopped to
~37 IBUs) in which I added 40 g of these Hood pellets at T-5 min. I
expected a substantial hop nose, but am very disappointed to report that it
is virtually nonexistent. The beer is still good, just not what I had aimed
for. Does anyone have experience with late additions of Hood, and what do
you find?
Thermometer: Awhile back a section of the red-colored alcohol (is that what
it is?) in my mashing thermometer (10-100C markings but has space to reach
probably 130 or so, about 30 cm long) somehow detached from the main mass,
and now sits about 30 or 40C above the rest--there is an air bubble between
the main mass and this small bit, which has a length equivalent to about 2
deg. C. The small section moves up and down, keeping the same distance from
the top of the main mass. I have tried a couple of times to get it back by
putting the thermometer in boiling water but it still stays away. Do I have
to add the couple of deg. represented by this small length to the
temperature indicated by the top of the main mass in order to get the
correct temperature--i.e., is it an additive thing? Or do I ignore that
little bit and just read the top of the main mass as the real temperature?
My intuition says the latter--if there were just a column of alcohol or
mercury or whatever in an open-ended tube, the main mass would not know what
was above it (air or more alcohol/mercury). But I am not sure--any help
from the physiobiochemicozymurgicologists out there would be appreciated.
Thanks and Cheers, Dave in Sydney
"...one shouldn't waste homebrews getting drunk." ---Erik Larson
- ---
***************************************************************************
David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia
Email: david.draper@mq.edu.au Home page: http://www.ocs.mq.edu.au/~ddraper
...I'm not from here, I just live here...
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1814, 08/25/95
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