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HOMEBREW Digest #1813
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/08/22 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1813 Tue 22 August 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Important Notice - Please Read! (Rob Gardner)
Harvested Yeast "Shelf Life" (MEMBRINO TIMOTHY)
Heat transfer 101 (pbabcock)
Style descriptions (Mark Montminy)
cheap carboys? (MEMBRINO TIMOTHY)
Oregon Nut Brown Commemorative (BF3B8RL)
delete request ( Richard Mauri)
Spigots (hadleyse)
First batch is great! (Rolland Everitt)
Re: Trappist ale fermentation temperature (Tel 202-622-0079 )
Hunter Back On-Line (Kyle R Roberson)
Zener Diode Circuit (Jim Overstreet)
just starting off (steve brown)
Suds recipe files (Slyboyy)
A nail for the H2O2 thread coffin (JACKMOWBRAY)
More body need quickly ("Robert Marshall")
Vienna (A. J. deLange)
Dilution correction (Dave Draper)
Hunter airstat replacement zeners (Mike Lelivelt)
It's Miller time (Eric Palmer)
******************************************************************
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 03:31:07 -0600
From: rdg@hpfcmgw (Rob Gardner)
Subject: Important Notice - Please Read!
The machine known to world as "hpfcmi" is gone. The new, perhaps
temporary home of the homebrew digest is now "hpfcmgw". All mail
destined for hpfcmi will either bounce or be lost forever. Any
mail sent there in the last few days will need to be resent.
This is also the reason that there have been no digests for a few days.
Rob Gardner, Digest Custodian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 12:56:00 -0500 (EST)
From: MEMBRINO TIMOTHY
Subject: Harvested Yeast "Shelf Life"
Hi all,
I'm a new brewer (3 batches in the bottles - 1 batch in the stomach!) and
have been consistently trying to improve my basic techniques while adding
new stuff along the way. I've tried twice now to harvest the yeast after
bottling and have a few beginner's questions.
How long can I keep the harvested yeast? My methods are very simple thus
far. I've just "scooped" out some of the yeast sediment from the cake at
the bottom of the fermenter using a sterilized measuring cup and transferred
it into a sterile bottle. Then cap and pop it in the fridge. What's the
"expiration date" for my yeast?
Is there any odor I should be looking for as a sign of contamination? I ask
this because I harvest an Irish Ale yeast and unfortunately wasn't able to
use it for about 3 weeks. I was very wary about using it after that time
and so I just dumped it, after giving it a good whiff.....WOW....it smelled
really bad...can't describe it except to say it smelt nothing like wort.
I haven't checked the stanford FAQ's yet regarding harvesting but plan to.
Just thought you folks might be able to answer my direct questions. Thanks
in advance for the help. And thanks also to everyone who responded to my
question about my disappointingly flat porter (hbd1794)...I'm being patient
but after 4 weeks in the bottle no real improvement....still tastes nice
though...
Tim Membrino
membrino@nadc.nadc.navy.mil
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 13:16:57 EDT
From: pbabcock@e-mail.com
Subject: Heat transfer 101
I know this is probably response #4,876,986.5, but just in case it's #1... (I
will cancel if it doesn't make 2morrow's digest, the question is answered, and
the HBD will allow me to cancel from my home account. If not, the waste of
bandwidth ain't my fault =)
Here goes:
What you're trying to do to get efficient cooling is to maximize the
temperature DIFFERENTIAL.
In a counterflow system, both the coolant and wort are flowing; and as they
flow, the wort is giving up heat to the water. If they flowed in the same
direction, they would meet at some median temperature between that of the hot
wort, and that of the cold water, and both would exit at that temperature. By
flowing opposite the wort, the coolant is always at some temperature LESS than
that of the wort. This allows us to chill the wort so close to the incoming
water temperature that the difference is usually undetectable by our brewing
instruments (given length, flow, and surface area considerations).
In an immersion chilling system, the wort is (barring stirring and *strong*
convection currents) static. The hot portion is always near the top, the cool
portion is always near the bottom. To maximize our temperature differential,
we need to have the coldest portion of the chiller always in contact with the
hottest portion on the wort. Thus, the coil enters through the top, exits from
the bottom. This also explains why, in the absence of strong currents, the
immersion outflow will be cool to the touch while the wort remains scalding:
the viscosity of the wort allows a layer of cool liquid to form around the
chiller tube insulating it from the wort. The cool wort does not conduct heat
to the chiller well, so, effectively, the temperature differetial at the
chiller wall has been reduced. (This also happens with water as the hot medium
but is more easily and quickly observed with more viscous materials.)
Hope it helps...
Corrections, applause, accolades, and praise to pbabcock@oeonline.com
Flames to get.a.life@moron.com
-Pat
IYWIDRTYMJFDIY
Best regards,
Patrick G. Babcock Michigan Truck Plant PVT Office
(313)46-70842 (V) -70843 (F) 38303 Michigan Wayne,MI 48184
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 13:16:43 -0400
From: Mark Montminy <markm@dev.cdx.mot.com>
Subject: Style descriptions
I've decided it's time to broaden my knowledge of styles. I want to better
understand the various styles, so I can better distinguish an IPA from a pale
ale, for example. I'm not looking for charts showing BU's and colors and
such, but rather a laymen's guide to styles, descriptions, chracteristics that
seperate it from similar styles, good exmaples of the style, etc. I'm looking
for good book and document recommendations. I'm not looking for the AR guide
to styles, I'm looking for good starter information.
Thanks.
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Motorola ISG (508)261-5684 Email: markm@dev.cdx.mot.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Better dead than mellow.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 13:06:00 -0500 (EST)
From: MEMBRINO TIMOTHY
Subject: cheap carboys?
Does anyone know of a source for cheap 5-gal. carboys? I'm in the Philly
area and the best
price I've found is $20.00. I'd have no problem with mail ordering but
also wonder if anyone in
this area has found a great source unknown to myself.
Private e-mail is fine - I'll post anything of general interest.
Thanks,
Tim Membrino
membrino@nadc.nadc.navy.mil
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 13:37:24 -0400
From: BF3B8RL@TPLANCH.BELL-ATL.COM
Subject: Oregon Nut Brown Commemorative
Just to give credit where credit is due:
Chris Studach DID brew the 1993 commemorative beer.
Dena Nishek WROTE the Zymurgy article.
- Chas Peterson
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 10:45:05 -0700
From: Richard.Mauri@Eng.Sun.COM ( Richard Mauri)
Subject: delete request
I am having much difficulty getting off this list.
Please try and acknowledge.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 95 13:59:21 EDT
From: hadleyse@pweh.com
Subject: Spigots
Does anyone know of a source for plastic spigots that has a threaded
portion 1" in diameter and 2" long? All the ones I've seen are 1"
diameter and 1" long. I'd like to use a picnic cooler with a slotted
manifold for a mash/lauter tun. The problem is the picnic cooler has a
1.25" thick wall which is too thick to engage any of the threads of a 1"
long spigot. All the homebrew supply shops in my area only carry the 1"
long model. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
_
___ | |_____
^ ////////| | |__
DIA ////////| | |______
_\/_ ////////| |_____| ______|
|_| | |
| |
|<-LEN->| -->|__|<-- 3/8"
Scott Hadley
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 15:48:36 -0400
From: af509@osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt)
Subject: First batch is great!
I am relaxing, not worrying, and having a homebrew - from my
first batch - and it's great! It's an all-grain ale with plenty
of hops - full-bodied, moderately carbonated, and amber in color.
It hazed up slightly on being chilled, but it's very drinkable.
Thanks to all those who helped, a toast! And to those who haven't
brewed yet, or who are thinking about going all-grain, do it!
I bottled my second batch last night. Good thing too, 'cause
this batch won't last long.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 10:37:42 -0400
From: Erik Larson <"/G=Erik/S=Larson/OU=EM and CA/O=Department of the Treasury/"@treas.sprint.com> (Tel 202-622-0079 )
Subject: Re: Trappist ale fermentation temperature
In HBD #1811, Dave Riedel asked about the appropriate
fermentation temperature for trappist-style ales, and remarked on
the variation in published recommended temperature levels.
My brewing as of late has focused almost exclusively on these and
other types of Belgian ales. Some time ago, I purchased Pierre
Rajotte's (sp?) book on Belgian Ales. In it, he states that he
likes to ferment at temperatures around 75-80 F. He argues, and
I agree, that the esters that are produced at these high temps
are a requisite part of the flavor and aromatic profile of most
Belgian ales. If you take care to insure that you pitch a high
volume (1/2 gallon starter per 5 gallon batch) of healthy (active
and mutation-free) yeast, my experience has been that fusel
alcohol production is minimized or non-existant. To be honest,
I've never noticed the fusels in my brews; nor have others ever
complained to me of a headache after drinking one.
To push the high temperature argument further, Rajotte points out
that most bottle-conditioned Belgian ales are kept at 80-90 F.
for up to two weeks immediately after bottling, to insure that
the yeast added at priming can do it's carbonation job.
I have a near perfect Westmalle-type Tripel that was produced at
these "high" temps using extracts and carefully managed Wyeast
Belgian Abbey yeast.
The only way I'd get a headache from this is if I were drink too
much at one sitting -- we all know that one shouldn't waste
homebrews getting drunk.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 00:25:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kyle R Roberson <roberson@beta.tricity.wsu.edu>
Subject: Hunter Back On-Line
Well, a big thank you to the contributor that talked about
replacing the 24V, 5W Zener (Z1) on the Hunter Air-Stat
PC board. I did it today and it did the trick. The one I
got from Radar,Inc. was about 3 times the size. So maybe
it can stand up to the pressure a little longer. It's
holding the lager temp between 1 and 2 degrees C now.
The HBD is a fine thing.
Thanks,
Kyle
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 07:20:15 -0600
From: wa5dxp@mail.sstar.com (Jim Overstreet)
Subject: Zener Diode Circuit
Most all Zener Diode circuits have a current-limiting resistor in series with
the diode, between source voltage and ground. If the diode shorted, the value
of this resistor (or it's power rating) was probably too low to begin with,
and has probably changed to a lower resistance to boot (or is open-circuit).
If changing the diode or replacing it with 2 - 12V zeners in series, be sure
to check the value of the current-limiting resistor with an ohmmeter (do
this with one end of the resistor lifted or with the zeners out of the
circuit), as they
usually go down in value when overheated. You could also increase the value
and wattage rating of the resistor when changing the diodes; and as suggested
by someone, mount the components slightly above the board so the leads can
act as heat-sinks and help dissipate the heat.
Resistors usually have a series of color bands signifying its value and the
percent resistance tolerance. If the resistor is "fried" also and you can't
read the color code, then some math will be needed to calculate the correct
value for the resistor.
Also, will be leaving for Guam soon, any chance of finding a good beer over
there?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 14:17:07 GMT
From: steve@zaxxon.dungeon.com (steve brown)
Subject: just starting off
I would suggest that you start of with beer kits if you can them as
that will ease you slowly into the art of brewing. the first items you
will need and you might already have them is a food quality bin to
ferment the beer; bottles - about 40 or a keg, the bottles must be
of the reusable kind; crown corker; syponing tube to transfer the
wort to the bottles. and of course sterilisation powered. also a
clean supply of water.
I don't know if they have a shop called 'BOOTS' in Italy be they sell
all these things.
steve/zaax
.
/|\ ///
/ |z \ steve@zaxxon.dungeon.com ///
---|--a- IRC zaax @ w/ends \\\///
\""""""x Amgia 1200 with 350 overdrive \XX//
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ aMiGa
If Nuclear bombs are so safe why don`t the French test them under Paris.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 11:38:51 -0400
From: Slyboyy@aol.com
Subject: Suds recipe files
Hello All
Does anyone Know where I could find some files to import to the brewing
program SUDS. Also does anyone have any opinions on this Program.
Thanks
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 11:43:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: JACKMOWBRAY@delphi.com
Subject: A nail for the H2O2 thread coffin
Hydrogen peroxide may or may not be effective for providing
oxygen to your wort. It is an effective method for killing
microorganisms (including yeast) in foods, as well as beer.
The use of H2O2 in food is regulated by FDA (21 CFR Part
184.1366) and you should be aware of the differences between
food grade and pharmaceutical grade H2O2. Food grade H2O2 is
produced through an electrolytic process and its use is
allowed provided there is no residual H2O2 in the food.
Pharmaceutical grades of H2O2 (like that available in drug
stores) are produced by other methods, may contain heavy
metal residues and are NOT intended for human consumption.
Again, pharmaceutical grades of H2O2 should NOT be used in
foods (ie. beer) intended for human consumption. So, unless
you have access to food grade hydrogen peroxide, the
discussion of its effectiveness in oxygenating your wort
is pointless.
Jack Mowbray
Washington DC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 12:16:44 -0800
From: "Robert Marshall" <robertjm@hooked.net>
Subject: More body need quickly
I've got a small problem. I was making a fruit beer and when I took
the s.g. while racking into the secondary it was 1.006!!! Also, the
taste was a little too dry for my taste, with very little hop
character.
While i don't want to mess with the hops on this go round, I was
wondering whether I could put some dextin powder in with the priming
sugar and boil it for a little while and then add it at boiling time?
Yes, I know I am running the risk of getting a haze, but the beer is
simply too dry for my taste.
Also, anyone want to suggest how I might be able to increase the
final sweetness next time so I don't have to patch it up with
dextrin?
Thanks in advance,
Robert Marshall
robertjm@hooked.net
homepage: http://www.hooked.net/users/robertjm
- ----------------------------------------------
"In Belgium, the magistrate has the dignity
of a prince, but by Bacchus, it is true
that the brewer is king."
Emile Verhaeren (1855-1916)
Flemish writer
- ------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 19:03:48 -0500
From: ajdel@interramp.com (A. J. deLange)
Subject: Vienna
Vienna 1
This is the last in a series of posts on the formulation
of waters similar to those of famous brewing cities of the world. They
are based on ion concentration profiles given by Dave Draper in
his post in #1704 (10 April 95). See my post "Water Series" (#1763) for
explanatory material (correction: in the Line 3 explanation read 1.8 ml of
1 N sulfuric acid, not 18 ml). Quick reminders: all ion concentrations and
salt quantities are in ppm which is the same as mg/l. The water to
which the salts are added is assumed to be ION FREE (i.e. it is
DISTILLED WATER or REVERSE OSMOSIS WATER).
The Vienna 1 profile is one of the most difficult that we have had to deal
with. It is attributed to Noonan in "Brewing Lager Beer". Of the cities we
have considered this profile shows the most uneven ratio of anions to cations
with the later being over 3.3 times the former. The only way we can synthesize
this water, therefore, is to add many more anions than the specification calls
for. As ususal, we employ external acid and remove carbonate from the
error calculation i.e. let it supply the extra anions. The result is:
Formulation I
pH 7.00; use external acid; Maximum salts
n: 1158156 Temp: 0.000936 Energy (rms %): 5.854325
Vienna Desired Cations: 15.262 Anions: 4.506 mEq/L Ratio: 0.295
ION WT DESIRED REALIZED ERR, % SALTS AMOUNT
Ca 1.00 200.000 170.110 -14.95 NaCl 2.211
Mg 1.00 60.000 57.873 -3.54 Na2CO3.10H2O 16.957
Na 1.00 8.000 7.978 -0.28 CaCL2 3.080
K 1.00 0.000 0.000 0.00 CaSO4.2H2O 81.142
CO3 0.00 118.000 318.876 170.23 CaCO3 374.862
SO4 1.00 124.000 126.452 1.98 MgCL2 11.685
Cl 1.00 12.000 12.008 0.07 MgCO3 127.122
H 1.00 6.337 0.000 -100.00 KCl 0.000
Na2SO4 13.543
MgSO4.7H2O 184.755
H2SO4 0.000
NaHCO3 0.000
HCl 0.000
Carbonic: 1.0273 Bicarbonate: 4.2826 Carbonate: 0.002050 mM
Total Required Hydronium: 6.3372 Sulfuric Hydronium: 0.0000 mEq
Hydrochloric Hydronium: 0.0000 mEq
6.3372 mEq additional hydronium required to maintain pH 7.00
Solubility Products - CaCO3: 8.70E-09 MgCO3: 2.60E-05
Ion Products - CaCO3: 8.70E-09 MgCO3: 4.88E-09
Alkalinity: 4.23 mEq; 211.58 ppm as CaCO3.
Temporary hardness: 10.62 mEq; 531.19 ppm as CaCO3
Permanent hardness: 2.62 mEq; 131.20 ppm as CaCO3
To balance the large amounts of calcium and magnesium requires 319 ppm car-
bonate and 6.3 mEq of external acid which is a great deal especially in
comparison to the specified carbonate level.
As we have done in other cases which are very difficult we offer an
alternative profile for the composition of Vienna water. This one is from
"Handbook of Brewing" edited by Hardwick. This source does not give a value
for sodium so we use the 8 ppm value from Vienna 1. The modified Hardwick
profile is reasonably synthesized with the simple salt set but external
acid is required:
Formulation II
pH 7.00; use external acid; Minimum salts
n: 810000 Temp: 0.000963 Energy (rms %): 5.778461
Vienna 2 Desired Cations: 14.074 Anions: 8.863 mEq/L Ratio: 0.630
ION WT DESIRED REALIZED ERR, % SALTS AMOUNT
Ca 1.00 163.000 162.467 -0.33 NaCl 20.328
Mg 1.00 68.000 60.141 -11.56 Na2CO3.10H2O 0.000
Na 1.00 8.000 7.995 -0.06 CaCL2 0.000
K 1.00 0.000 0.244 0.24 CaSO4.2H2O 0.000
CO3 1.00 243.000 243.336 0.14 CaCO3 405.722
SO4 1.00 216.000 237.597 10.00 MgCL2 0.000
Cl 1.00 39.000 38.973 -0.07 MgCO3 0.000
H 1.00 4.836 0.745 -84.59 KCl 0.465
Na2SO4 0.000
MgSO4.7H2O 609.572
H2SO4 0.000
NaHCO3 0.000
HCl 27.183
Carbonic: 0.7840 Bicarbonate: 3.2681 Carbonate: 0.001564 mM
Total Required Hydronium: 4.8360 Sulfuric Hydronium: 0.0000 mEq
Hydrochloric Hydronium: 0.7454 mEq
4.0906 mEq additional hydronium required to maintain pH 7.00
Solubility Products - CaCO3: 8.70E-09 MgCO3: 2.60E-05
Ion Products - CaCO3: 6.34E-09 MgCO3: 3.87E-09
Alkalinity: 3.23 mEq; 161.46 ppm as CaCO3.
Temporary hardness: 8.11 mEq; 405.36 ppm as CaCO3
Permanent hardness: 4.95 mEq; 247.29 ppm as CaCO3
We recommend, as usual, that carbonic acid be used as the external acid
This is done by bubbling CO2 through the water until all the chalk is
dissolved (this may take appreciable time) and then outgassing until the
target pH is reached. Formulation II can be outgassed to pH 6.8 before
calcium carbonate begins to precipitate. Setting the pH to this value
results in total carbonic/bicarbonate/carbonate of about 600 ppm but bear
in mind that about 26% of this is carbonic so that about 440 ppm are
bicarbonate. This is enough extra bicarbonate to raise the alkalinity to
around 7 mEq (355 ppm as CaCO3). George and Laurie Fix state in their
monograph on Vienna beer that the high kilned malts used in Vienna style
beers are capable of neutralizing alkalinities as high as 300 ppm. You
may wish, therefore to outgas CO2 until the pH drops to about 7. This
will result in a reduction of the calcium ion content to 128 ppm but the
total carbonates will be 422 ppm (with 338 ppm bicarbonate) and the
alkalinity will be lowered to 5.6 mEq or 280 ppm as CaCO3). Remember that
outgassing and precipitation of calcium carbonate (and phosphate) occur
in the brewing process as you heat the mash and especially if you boil it
as in decoctions which are often used in brewing Vienna style beers.
Well, brewers and brewsters, that's about it. Vienna is the last city on the
list. I certainly appologize for being so long in getting it out - press of
other business. This is definitely not the end of the road, however. Many
of you have written asking that this stuff be put together in one lump and
have had lots of questions and other suggestions. I hope to be able to respond
to at least some of these but I'm not sure what the forum will be. In case
anyone is not aware Kirk Fleming has been HTMLing these and posting them to
The Brewery home page (http://alpha.rollanet.org/)". I guess what I'd like to
do next is go back over the postings and look at them as a whole, check for
errors etc. I've learned a few things along the way and feel a lot more savvy
than when I started this. So watch this space for further developments.
Finally, thanks to all of those of you who wrote. Many of your suggestions
and comments were most helpful.
A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore!
ajdel@interramp.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 1995 09:09:54 +1000
From: david.draper@mq.edu.au (Dave Draper)
Subject: Dilution correction
Dear Friends, it has been pointed out to me that I screwed up in my most
recent post on dilution. I gave this example:
"So we have 30 litres of 1.042 after sparging and know we will end up with
23 litres after boiling. We know the gravity will go *up* because we are ^^
concentrating, so we make sure to arrange the volumes so that the ratio is
greater than one, so that when we use it to multiply the gravity, the result
will be higher than what we started with. So 30/20 = 1.5; 1.5 times 42 =
63; so we know that our 23 L will have a gravity of 1.063."
^^
I wrote 23 L *twice* when I meant 20. No excuses, I simply blew it.
Sorry for any confusion. Cheers, Dave in Sydney
"Life's a bitch, but at least there's homebrew" ---Norm Pyle
- ---
***************************************************************************
David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia
Email: david.draper@mq.edu.au Home page: http://www.ocs.mq.edu.au/~ddraper
...I'm not from here, I just live here...
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 21:38:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Lelivelt <mjl@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Hunter airstat replacement zeners
Jim Griggers recently suggested replacing the 24V, 5W Zener diode which
blows in everyone's Hunter Airstat with two 12V Zener diodes from Radio
Shack. I looked up this item in the Radio Shack catalog and they are
only listed at a single watt. Jim said to put these in series which
would give one 24V, but I'm assuming only 2 watts. Now I'm no electrical
engineer, but if a 24V, 5W diode didn't cut it the first time, I doubt a
2 watt diode will cut it in the long run.
Can anyone with some experience comment on this? Jim, buddy pal, it's
not that I doubt that your works now, but for how long? Mike
============================================================================
Mike Lelivelt mjl@email.unc.edu
Dept of Microbiology & Immunology home 919-408-0451
Univ of N Carolina @ Chapel Hill BJCP Certified Judge
============================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 23:00:31 PDT
From: palmer@San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Eric Palmer)
Subject: It's Miller time
I was in Corvallis Oregon this week and found an interisting article in the
Aug. 15th.Oregonian. A columinist, Mike francis, was reporting on an
interview with a gentleman named Scott Barnum who is president of a 6-month
old division of Miller called "American Specialty and Craft Beer Co. I'll
provide some excerpts of the article: "It's the charter of this new company
to create a national network of regional brewers (aka microbrewers) as part
of a push by traditional big brewers to capture a piece of the fast-growing
microbrew market.", snip, "Barnem and associates are negotiating with craft
brewers in this region (Oregon, Washington) and the talks have progressed
beyone 'fact- finding'.", snip, "Local brewers are convinced Miller is
close to snapping up part or all of a familiar Northwest brewer, but nobody
is saying who it is. But most acknowledge having conversations with Barnon
and Co.", snip,
""We have been approached by any number of companies", said Tony Adams, the
president of Portland Brewing Co., "I'm not negotiating with any of them",
snip, "Yet romors are flying that somebody around here is dancing
cheek-to-cheek with Miller and that the romance will lead to marriage of
some sort.", snip, "Miller's long term goal would be to own a controlling
interest in one of our regional craft brewers.".
He goes on to mention Anheuser-Busch's minority interest in Seattle's
Redhook Ale Brewing Inc. and Miller's recent acquisition of controlling
interest of Austin's Cellis Brewery Inc. Miller's goal by year end is to
have about five craft brewers scattered in key locations around the
country, including the Northwest.
The operating theory, apparantly, is the that craft brewing craze could do
for beer what the gourmet coffee houses and funky ice cream shops have
done for their market segments. Ultimately, Miller and A-B feel that this
may help brewers attract new users from the hard-to-crack consumer groups
such as women and wine drinkers.
The terms of the Redhook deal are now public and include an IPO of 1.9
million shares for $33Mil. Shares will be offered at between $13 and $15.
Call your broker at Smith Barney or Montgomery Securities to get on the
inside track. A-B will own 25% of Redhook on completion of the offering
and, initially, two of the nine seats on the board.
I'm tired of typing, so let me know if you want more and I'll try to fill
in some gaps.
Eric
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1813, 08/22/95
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