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HOMEBREW Digest #1780
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/07/13 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1780 Thu 13 July 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
fruit beers/competition entry requests/flaked barley (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
BJCP Class Slides (Rick Garvin)
Water de-ionization (Hauptbrau)
Blow-off/chillers/burners (Robert Brown)
SCAM??? (David Allison 225-5764)
250F w/out pressure? (Dan Sherman)
Norm's Chillers!! (Lee Allison)
Stuck fermentation/Pressure cooked hops/Homebrew entries (Philip Gravel)
Brewing and society, even when it includes religion. (Kenneth K Goodrow)
chillers, sanitation and cherry beer (Rob Lauriston)
flaked barley (Rob Lauriston)
IBU numbers in Suds (RevEd - Ed Blonski)
Answers about specific gravity and extract (Sergio Escorza)
CHIMAY (Ian Bishop)
HOMEBREW DIGEST #1776 (JU (Ian Bishop)
Residue in my fermenter! ("Rick Gontarek, Ph.D.")
Perry (pear cider) Recipe (Fred Hardy)
Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1779 (July 12, 1995) (MTaylor266)
Maine brew page (kit.anderson)
just curious ("Frederick L. Pauly")
Campden tablets (kpnadai)
Chillers (Tom_Williams_at_RAY__REC__ATLANTA)
7 gal Gott / false bottom / fruity 1056 ("Keith Royster")
Trub (Jim Busch)
Re: Questions about specific gravity and extract (Jeff Renner)
Religion and beer (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
1056 vs. Cascades (Norman C. Pyle)
Blueberry. (Russell Mast)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 11 Jul 95 15:08:00 -0500
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: fruit beers/competition entry requests/flaked barley
One quick note on fruit beers: don't use a blender on the fruit -- just
crush it well -- blending will pulverize the fruit and make siphoning off
of it more difficult.
***
Pat writes:
>I am considering entering a couple in a local competition but I am wondering if
>their request for six (6) 10-14 oz bottles of each brew is out of line. This
>seems like alot and since I brew 5 gallon batches, I don't have many bottles of
>the beer(s) I want to enter left. ;-)
Typically, between two and four bottles are requested, but I assume you are
considering entering the Brewer's On The Bluff competition, right? The
difference here is that only one or two beers are used for the judging and
the rest are for a homebrew tasting afterwords. This is a little
unconventional, but the idea is to expose more people to the taste of homebrew.
If you have very few bottles left, call the organizer and ask for a variance.
I'm sure he/she'll let you slide.
***
Bob writes:
>I have an Irish stout extract recipe, that includes flaked barley as
>an ingredient, that I wish to try.
<snip>
>I looked through recipes in the Cat's Meow, and the consensus seemed
>to be to steep the flaked barley with the other specialty grains
<snip>
Steeping flaked barley will only get you cloudy beer. You need to mash
it along with some enzymatic grain like 2-row or 6-row malt. When you
write "specialty grains" I'm assuming you mean black patent, crystal,
roasted barley, etc. These don't have enzymes and won't help convert
the starch to sugars. You need to put together a small mash/lauter tun
and do a mini-mash. If you have a roller mill, I would set it very
tight for the flaked barley. Regular crushing (i.e. regular spacing or
rolling pin crushing) won't do much to flaked grains -- they are already
kind of "smashed flat."
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 16:59:04 EDT
From: rgarvin@btg.com (Rick Garvin)
Subject: BJCP Class Slides
I was inundated with requests for my BJCP class slides at the AHA
conference. It has taken me a while, but they are now available on the web.
They are in Microsoft PowerPoint for Windows format.
URL http://www.btg.com/~rgarvin/burp/bjcpclass/bjcpclass.html
Cheers, Rick
=====================================================================
| Rick Garvin BTG, Inc. |
| Senior Systems Engineer Information Systems Group |
| Internet Systems Architect 1945 Old Gallows Road |
| rgarvin@btg.com Vienna, VA 22182 |
| rgarvin@burp.org 800-548-7544 x6630, 703-761-6630 |
| http://www.btg.com/~rgarvin FAX 703-761-3245 |
=====================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 18:34:36 -0400
From: Hauptbrau@aol.com
Subject: Water de-ionization
I have just rented a water de-ionizer. I want to emulate brewing different
styles of beer with water that is close to the water of that style. Will the
de-ionizer take out all minerals in the water? Will I have to add back
minerals to the water? What would the beer taste like if I used only
de-inoized water and did not add anything back to it? I think the unit I
rented has two different types of media in it ( I don't know what to call
them ). Can I brew as is, or do I have to add minerals back to the water in
accordance to the style of beer I am tying to make? I am from Texas and this
time of year the water in the lake turns over and the quality of water seems
to taste bad, therefore the de-ionizer. Can anyone help me with info?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 19:03:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Brown <rbrown00@uoguelph.ca>
Subject: Blow-off/chillers/burners
Guys just a few points,
Blow-off tubes: It seems everyone uses either water (boiled or not), or
a sanitizer of preference. I don't feel that suck-back is a concern.
Have you ever watched a really good blow-off in action, if so you aren't
losing any sleep over suck back. I don't use any liquid :), do I hear a
startled collective gasp.
I have a different take on this situation that I got from "All
About Beer ...And homebrewing" by Bob Pritchard. I sanitize my primary,
and blowoff tube like all good homebrewers should. But I also sanitize a
bubbler and my 1 gal blowoff bucket with *2* holes in the top. I call it
a pseudo-burton union system. Everything is sterile(sanitized) and no
water/sanitizer means you can't suck them back. In addition I can do (as
appropriate) a few things with the sterile undiluted blowoff. Taste it,
Culture it, repitch it, or just toss it like everyone else does. Some
benefits and no drawbacks that I can see.
Wort Chillers: I agree it is confusing. I think we set up a long and
complicated system of nomenclature for these beasties.
Here are my suggestions:
counter flow chiller(CF)-Cu tube in a hose-
pseudo-counter flow(PCF)-curled Cu in a counter flow housing(big tube)-
Pot Immersion chiller(PI)-Cu tube in your kettle-
Bucket Immersion chiller(BI)-Cu tube in water (wort siphoned)-
Bulk Chiller(BC)-carboy/pot in snowbank/sink-
Dump chiller(DC)-1 gal [wort] into 4 gal cold tap water-Newbie chiller(NC):)
plus the suffixes (if necessary)
Tap Cooled(TC)-Tap water/pressure as coolant-
Ice Water(IW)-Ice used to chill water(coolant)-
Recirculated Icewater(RI)-For (CF/PCFs), rechill and pump spent water in IW-
plus the prefixes (as necessary)-for combination chillers
1-*understood/presumed*
2-bi-
3-tri-*hopefully no one has done this*
etc.
So I have a tube in a garden hose-
CF/TC chiller, or Just CF chiller
If water was in short supply I would add a pump and Ice bath and recirculate
CF/RI chiller
If it wasn't cold enough I could add a secondary chiller (BI-IW) to my CF/TC
bi-CF/TC-BI/IW
A dual chiller with a primary Counter flow Recircalated
Tap water chiller coupled to a secondary Bucket Immersion Ice
water chiller.
Or maybe NOT!!!! :) But seriosly, do let those you are corresponding
with know what you are discussing. Especially for the 2 types of CF and
Immersion chillers! It's awful easy to confuse some of us.:}
Burners: Someone posted a list a while ago(?), Superb 1-618-234-6169 (I
think). The metal fusion # was not in service. The Camp Chef doesn't
mail order but said Sam's Club, Costco, and the Gander Mountain catalogue
have their product(no distributor near me:().
If any one Knows the Metal fusion(in service number), Gander Mountain
Contact, or a contact for Brinkman I would be mighty appreciative.
Dinners ready no chance to reread, hope I didn't say anything
particularly stupid. See Ya, Rob
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 16:01:00 -0800 (PST)
From: David Allison 225-5764 <ALLISON.DAVID@a1gw.gene.com>
Subject: SCAM???
Talk about a scam (potentially).
I received in the mail a notice for a "Win your own Brewery" contest,
whereby you write (in 250 words or less) an essay on why you would like to
own and operate your Brewery (BrewPub). All this for a measily $100 "entry
fee". BTW, this is for the Riverwalk Brewery and Grill in Downtown Fort
Lauderdale, Florida.
$100 entry fee!!!!! Yes, that's right -- I think I'll send them cash -- why
bother with a money order -- just send my hard earned money to someone I
don't know for a contest that may not exist. While I am at it -- maybe
there is a contest to WIN the Brooklyn Bridge that I can enter for another
$100.
Anybody else get this letter or am I the only sucker (oops -- I mean
potential winner). I'd sure like to know how they got my address (AHA?
BJCP? IBS? BT?) -- who's selling lists of names? I think we can figure it
out if we put our heads together.
Hell, think I'll drink a quart of iodophor (Ken S - did you mean undiluted
or 12.5 ppm?) and send them 10 essays with $1000. I've always wanted my
own BrewPub.
- David
(allison2@gene.com)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 16:34:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Sherman <dsherman@sdcc3.ucsd.edu>
Subject: 250F w/out pressure?
In HBD #1778, Bob Devine wrote:
>There was a research paper on the efficiency of hop extraction
>using higher temp that I came across a while ago. If I remember
>right, the 1950's era paper found that a 250 F temp water bath
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>produced the best extraction rate. Pressure didn't really matter.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Bob, is that a typo? Since the boiling temp. of water at sea level
(1 atm. pressure) is 212 F, to get a 250 F water bath, it must be
under some amount of pressure. If it _was_ a "250 F bath" they must
have been using a liquid other than water.
Cheers!
Dan Sherman
San Diego, CA
dsherman@ucsd.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 19:38:23 -0700
From: grandcru@ix.netcom.com (Lee Allison)
Subject: Norm's Chillers!!
In reference to Norman C. Pyle's thourough discussion of chillers I
have always divided them into four types.
1) Immersion - standard copper coil in the wort w/ coolant inside
it.
2) Bath - an immersion chiller where the coil is sitting in a tub
of ice with the wort running through it.
3) Counterflow - the copper coil is running inside a hose....
everyone knows this one!
4) Plate cooler - the wort runs across a large plate that is
somehow heavily chilled. These don't see much use in homebrewing, but
if anyone uses one I'd be interested in knowing how it's constructed.
I would also be interested in a general consensus on cold break
removal, is it critically neccessary or not? With my counterflow I run
into probs with getting rid of it. Anyway, Just my dos centavos.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
"At what point does a computer stop losing value because it's
obsolete, and start gaining value because it's an antique?
'Cuz, I think I'm there!"
Lee Allison a.k.a GrandCru@ix.netcom.com
San Antonio, Texas
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 21:26 CDT
From: pgravel@mcs.com (Philip Gravel)
Subject: Stuck fermentation/Pressure cooked hops/Homebrew entries
===> Tom Neary asks about a stuck fermentation:
>I am totally new to homebrewing and brewed my first batch on Saturday July 8.
[snip, snip, snip...]
> I'm not too sure what's going on here since
>for the first 24 hours fermentation was rapid but the second 24 hours
>fermentation was non existent. Not even one bubble.
>
>Is this a classic case of stuck fermentation?
If you used a dry yeast, this kind of fermentation is not uncommon.
A good way of understanding the state of your fermentation is to
check the specific gravities. Did to measure the original (starting)
gravity of the wort? Have you measured the specific gravity of the
fermented beer? If so, what are they?
===> Bob Devine discusses pressure cooking hops:
>There was a research paper on the efficiency of hop extraction
>using higher temp that I came across a while ago. If I remember
>right, the 1950's era paper found that a 250 F temp water bath
>produced the best extraction rate. Pressure didn't really matter.
In principle you're correct that pressure probably doesn't matter.
However, it is the use of pressure that allows temperatures of
greater than 212^F to be achieved.
===> Pat Humphrey asks about entries for homebrew competitions:
>I am a relatively new brewer (six batches) and I have never entered a beer
>in any type of competition.
>I am considering entering a couple in a local competition but I am wondering
>if their request for six (6) 10-14 oz bottles of each brew is out of line.
>This seems like alot and since I brew 5 gallon batches, I don't have many
>bottles of the beer(s) I want to enter left. ;-)
This seems high to me. Most competitions I have entered required three (3)
12 oz bottles.
- --
Phil
_____________________________________________________________
Philip Gravel Lisle, Illinois pgravel@mcs.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 22:30:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kenneth K Goodrow <goodrow@orion.etsu.edu>
Subject: Brewing and society, even when it includes religion.
Let's pursue the SP sideof brewing, which, because brewing is done by
human beings might include some religious aspects, of course not meant to
offend but to enlighten and deepen discussion. Personally, I have
enjoyed and have learned a great deal from the posts reacting to my
earlier call for responses on "religion and brewing." Sorry if I
offended some. Let's open the discussion as Keith Royster suggests to
include more aspects regarding the society we live in. If we cloister
ourselves away, only discussing the technical aspects of brewing, how
will we ever improve our relations with those who would like to limit us
or even shut us down? Let's talk about what's been done to improve the
image of homebrewing and brewing in general, and about whatever else
comes to mind for discussion. Personally, discussing hops can be quite
enlightening, but hops alone can be dull as hell. Let's keep some
variety in our messages and stir up some creative thought, continuing to
learn from each other and making room for learning from new
perspectives.
An idea that just occured to me that might lend to the positive image of
homebrewing and to the general acceptance of homebrewing as common is the
founding of homebrew clubs on campuses. Has anyone heard of this and if
so, where? Who has done it and how? Most college students have free
access to the internet, so what better way to socialize new homebrewers
than through clubs suported by advice and wisdom of more experienced
brewers on the net? Ideas? I am even thinking about posting list
addresses and WWW sites on bulletin boards around campus to stoke some
student interest and information seeking. I live in an extremely
conservative part of the South and this might encourage some students who
are interested in seeking some ideas and resources. Any other ideas on
openning up the world of homebrewing to new persons and on perpetuating a
positive reputation for our pastime?
Post lengthy messages to my private address and boiled down ideas to the
digest. Thanks for your help!
Cheers,
Kenn Goodrow
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 20:23:31 -0700
From: robtrish@noif.ncp.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston)
Subject: chillers, sanitation and cherry beer
Dear Virtual Homebrew Club,
Do you think VHC is a good acronym for HBD subscribers? Naturally, I speak
only as a Evangelical Reformed Extract of Mercury brewer, and to Sodom with
the rest of THEM.
Today I made sixty litres of wort, 11.4'P all pale malt, low bittering. One
of them will be the base for a cherry beer. The sweet cherries were picked
on Sunday, pitted, pureed and frozen. They'll be thawed, possibly be
semi-sanitized with heat, then added to the carboy. Perhaps after racking.
I racked over a sweet brown ale onto some of the same cherries the day they
were picked. Whole hunks of fruit don't break down and small hunks can be a
nuisance downstream. I go for adding in secondary fermentation to reduce
concerns of sanitation and to maximize retention of aroma. I know there
have been other posts about fruits lately, but any "head 'em off at the
pass" words of wisdom are welcome.
I use a counterflow chiller based on the theoretical idea that it is the
speed with which one cools the wort (every incremental little bit) which is
impotent -- THERE's a thread, brewing and potency. I'd be interested in
hearing if anyone can use such a chiller without a pump. A pump (mine's
Little Giant, Ryton volute, magnetic impellor) is a godsend (Amen,
hallelujah! hic).
Trying to get serious, a main concern with chillers is sanitation, which
reminds us of the post about 'sanitizing' doggie detritus with a lethal
spray, then 'cleaning' it afterwards. I hope we all recognize the humour
and don't try to sanitize before we clean. Someone please tell me if there
is anyway to sanitize something that's dirty without autoclaving it.
I do try to recirculate a near-boiling solution of sodium hydroxide through
my chiller now and then, which ends up being semi-annually. The beauty of
heat sanitation is that it penetrates scum. During each brew and after
rinsing the chiller with hot water, I recirculate boiling wort through the
chiller and back into the kettle. I expect that to kill everything in
there. It's also a way to curb boil overs. Again, the recirculation
couldn't be done without a pump.
Then, while cooling in, I can put some wort in the bottom of each carboy,
pitch the yeast _leaving some starter in the mason jar_, then cool some new
wort on top in the mason jar. Presto, more than enough yeast in the mason
jar for the next time around without having to try to get it off the bottom
of a carboy. It's a variation on parallel yeast propagation. , -Rob
Rob Lauriston, The Low Overhead Brewery <robtrish@noif.ncp.bc.ca>
"Moderation in all things, especially moderation" Vernon, British Columbia
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 20:23:41 -0700
From: robtrish@noif.ncp.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston)
Subject: flaked barley
Bob Imag asked about the use of flaked barley.
You can't be making your own beer from grain without loving the procedures
themselves (can you?) So you can do as much as you like with flaked barley,
but you can also add it directly to your mash without any further grinding.
I've done this on a commercial scale, 5% of the grist if I recall. There
the mash was only 30 minutes quasi-single-step, then a raise to mash off.
On some things, what you THINK you are doing to your beer is almost as
important as what ends up in your mouth.
Rob Lauriston, The Low Overhead Brewery <robtrish@noif.ncp.bc.ca>
"Moderation in all things, especially moderation" Vernon, British Columbia
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 00:10:49 -0500
From: reved@ix.netcom.com (RevEd - Ed Blonski)
Subject: IBU numbers in Suds
Hi all! I'm the guy who asked about Laaglanders malt in a barelywine. I
haven't responded publicly to the beer and religion thread (just look at my
sig line to see where I stand, and I don't stand alone!)
Anyway,
I did do a barleywine, no Laaglanders, just 15 lbs of M&F light malt syrup
(I think, the boxes were not labled and I can't remember what the guy told
me they were when I bought them.)
Anyway, (oh, I already said that) I use the latest version of Suds and I
used that hop bitterness thingy. Well, I was wondering what the normal
bitterness rating is for a barleywine using the latest Suds release formula?
The Hop IBUs is 215.2. And I'm not sure exactly what that means. Here's what
I got for hops:
4 oz. Brewers Gold (pellets) 8.8% 75 minute boil
1 oz. Eroica (pellets) 9.5% 45 minute boil
3 oz. Cascade (plugs) 5.2% 15 minute boil
Ok, question two. I used a German Ale yeast to start things off. This
proceeded to go nuts for about two days, then pretty much died. I racked to
a secondary and my gravity went down from an OG of 1.090 to 1.036 which is
just about where my dealer had said that my German Ale yeast will peter out.
So I had a champagne yeast ready to go and added that in after I racked.
That was just about 24 hours ago and nothing has happened yet. The foam that
had built up from the racking has gradually dissipated, so it doesn't look
like its doing anything. Anyone got any ideas? I'd appreciate them!
Later,
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
*Rev. Ed Blonski (reved@ix.netcom.com) "But I'm young enough to remember*
*Christ Lutheran Church, LC-MS the future and the way things *
*White Cloud, MI ought to be!" NP *
*Rush fan (the band and the man!) *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 02:33:01 -0700
From: sescorza@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Sergio Escorza)
Subject: Answers about specific gravity and extract
In yesterday's HBD I raised some questions about some apparent
contradictions in SG and extract calculations and conversions between Martin
Manning's article in BT and my own ones.
After a private conversation with Martin, these apparent contradictions
disappeared. All calculations presented yesterday were correct, although
they were not dealing with the same concept. The key to the misunderstanding
lies in the fact that yield refers to pounds of extract in a gallon of
SOLUTION, not water.
This error arose since I was working with the yield tables provided by Dave
Miller when using the equations in Martin's article. In his book "Brewing
the world's great beers", page 130, Dave M defines yield as "the number of
specific gravity points that 1 pound [of grains] will raise one gallon of
WATER [my capital letters]", and in his book "The complete handbook of
homebrewing", page 196, he provides a table of yields as "the extract of 1
pound of the material in 1 gallon of WATER [again, my capital letters]".
Upon further revision, I came across a correct definition, though, in page
58 of the same last book.
I hope this will help to clarify the concept, and set the record straight.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sergio Escorza Trevi~o |
Scripps Institution of Oceanography | Dormir de dia es a
University of California at San Diego | lo que mas aspira
e-mail: sescorza@sdcc3.ucsd.edu | un tipo como yo
phone: (619)546-7095 FAX: (619)546-7003 |
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 20:25:22 EST
From: ibishop@tanus.oz.au (Ian Bishop)
Subject: CHIMAY
I have just obtained my first bottle of Chimay Grand Reserve (1993), and
am wondering what the best way is to serve it, what to eat with it etc.
Also, can the yeast from the bottle be captured to do anything useful?
If so, what would be the recommended technique for doing so, and what
should I do to ensure best usage.
I hope I will enjoy this as much as I have heard I should.
- ---
* RM 1.3 A1824 * "Bother," said Pooh, as he shot that bird in the wing.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 20:25:23 EST
From: ibishop@tanus.oz.au (Ian Bishop)
Subject: HOMEBREW DIGEST #1776 (JU
HH> (as usual) is fine. The general consensus on "IN MODERATION" meant
HH> no more than one Beer at a sitting. He also stated that the health
HH> of the woman improves with moderate consumtion, so: Obviously for
HH> health reasons alcohol (IN MODERATION) is IN.
I remember my mother telling me that in the maternity hospital in
Germany where I was born (and a lovable bundle of joy I was - What went
wrong?), Guinness was prescribed because of it's nutrient content. As an
aside, she went mountain climbing, also on doctors advice, about a week
before delivery. She maintains that labour was easy, even though I was
a big bugger!
- ---
* RM 1.3 A1824 * "Bother," said Pooh, as he tried to install OS/2.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 7:25:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Rick Gontarek, Ph.D." <GONTAREK@FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV>
Subject: Residue in my fermenter!
Howdy folks! I've just moved to a new town and brewed my first batch
in the new digs. I remove trub by pouring the chilled wort into a glass
carboy, let it settle, then rack it into a clean carboy. This weekend when
I brewed, I cleaned out the first carboy as per my usual protocol:
fill it with hot water and a bit o' bleach, let it sit overnight, then
rinse it really well with my bottle washer. To my surprise, there is
some kind of whitish precipitate on the inside of the carboy that
I can't get rid of. I rinsed and rinsed and rinsed to no avail.
I have no idea what the water chem is around here (Frederick, MD),
but my guess is that the bleach made something precipitate out
of the water.
Anybody ever have this happen before? Because this is resistant to my
standard carboy-cleaning procedure, I'd appreciate any advice on how
to get my carboy spanking clean again. Maybe I should get a long brush?
TIA for the assistance,
Rick Gontarek
Owner/Brewmaster of the Major Groove Picobrewery
Frederick, MD
gontarek@fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 07:40:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Fred Hardy <fcmbh@access.digex.net>
Subject: Perry (pear cider) Recipe
Bullwinkle Perry
Bullwinkle is a golden semi-dry pear cider which has the
character of a white wine with modest pear aroma and pears in the
flavor. Pears are not as aggressively flavored as apples, so
perry (pear cider) has subtle flavors enhanced by the sugars and
acids used in preparation.
Ingredients:
5 gallons pear squeezings (juice) OG = 1.052
2 lb. light brown sugar
4 lb. white table sugar
1 tsp. grape tannin
2 tsp acid blend
3 tsp tartaric acid
5 tsp malic acid
1 1/2 tsp citric acid
2 5 gm packets Red Star Pasteur Champagne dried yeast
Estimated OG = 1.095, FG = .096, alcohol approx. 12.3% by vol.
Make sure everything has been sanitized, and do not worry about
camden tablets, boiling stuff, etc. This is a no-sweat recipe.
Heat 1 gallon of the juice enough so you can dissolve the sugars
and additives in it. Stir until the sugar is dissolved.
Meanwhile reconstitute the dry yeast in a cup of warm (90-100
degrees F) water.
When the sugars are dissolved, dump the whole mess into a 5-
gallon carboy, fit a blowoff tube and pitch the yeast. watch the
liquid level in the carboy, and top up with fresh pear juice as
needed. Fermentation will drop off in about a month. When it
does, rack to a second carboy and top up with fresh cider.
Wait 45 days before bottling. Sample about 4 months after
bottling. My last batch was made on 9/20/94, racked to the
secondary on 10/20/94 and bottled 12/4/94. We began drinking it
in April, and it was good and still improving. I am confident it
will be all gone long before it reaches theoretical peak flavor.
BREW ON...................fred
==============================================================================
We must invent the future, else it will | <Fred Hardy>
happen to us and we will not like it. |
[Stafford Beer, "Platform for Change"] | email: fcmbh@access.digex.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 07:55:59 -0400
From: MTaylor266@aol.com
Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1779 (July 12, 1995)
Regarding a good external thermostat for a chest freezer, I have used a
Controller for the last 4 years with great results. It has a 20 to 80 degree
F. range. I got mine through William's, but I have also seen the same model
at my local shop. Good luck!
Matt Taylor
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 08:06:45 -0500
From: kit.anderson@acornbbs.com
Subject: Maine brew page
The Maine Brew Page is up and running on the Web.
Point your browser to http://www.maine.com/brew
Kit "Travels With Chiles" Anderson
Bath, Maine
<kit.anderson@acornbbs.com>
*
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 09:05:03 -0400
From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m@avery.med.virginia.edu>
Subject: just curious
In HBD1779 how was it possible for Russell Mast to respond to
Pete Bronder's article which was also in HBD1779 ?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 08:23:44 PDT
From: kpnadai@adsnet.com
Subject: Campden tablets
I was wondering why Campden tablets aren't used in homebrewing as they are
in wine and mead making. For instance, in fruit juice before adding them
to a fruit beer recipe.
Brew Bayou,
Kevin
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 09:38:08 EST
From: Tom_Williams_at_RAY__REC__ATLANTA@ccmail.eo.ray.com
Subject: Chillers
In HBD #1778, Norm Pyle writes about chiller terminology and usage.
Norm introduces new terms ("bulk" and "incremental") to chillers.
(Finally, a topic I know something about! :-) )
In industrial usage, "counterflow" is one of three terms which
generally describe heat exchanger configuration, the other two being
"crossflow" and "parallel flow". Counterflow is the more common
configuration because it allows the greatest change in fluid
temperature for a given set of inlet conditions. These terms refer to
the relative movement of the two fluids which exchange heat, and imply
forced flow in both fluids. I have never heard any of the three terms
applied to what Norm refers to as a "bulk" cooler.
Perhaps "forced flow" might be a better term than "incremental" for
the type of chiller in which wort flows through tubing. I agree with
Norm that what is happening with the wort should be used to name the
cooler, which would result in the "wort-flowing-through-tubing-
immersed-in-ice" chiller being called a forced-flow chiller as well.
I recently constructed a "bulk" chiller from 25 feet of 3/8" copper
tubing and some hoses and clamps. I used it for the first time with
my latest batch. It cooled 4.5 gallons of wort from boiling to 80F in
8 minutes, 30 seconds, with the tap water at about 73F. I stirred the
wort with the chiller during the cooling process. I am very happy
with this chiller because it cools the wort quickly, and cleaning and
sanitizing are very easy.
While I am now a chiller user, I am still unsure of the technical
reasons for using them. To me, the reduction in time alone is worth
it, but what does rapid cooling do for the flavor of the beer? I
recall someone stating that the two biggest improvements that a
beginner can make are switching to liquid yeast and using a chiller.
I have done both, but really, what have I done?
Tom Williams, P.E.
Norcross, Georgia
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 10:26:31 +0500 ET
From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471@mro.ehnr.state.nc.us>
Subject: 7 gal Gott / false bottom / fruity 1056
I have two questions and one contribution to todays HBD....
Q1) Is a 7 gallon Gott (Gott is German for God, but this is not a
religion post. Please, no flames!) big enough for mashing 10 gallon
batches? I'm currently brewing extracts while I collect the equipment
for all-grain and I saw a 7gal Gott for $27 that I could use as a
mash/lauter tun, but I want the flexibility to move to 10 gallon
brew batches if I want to. The dimensions are 16" diam. X 15" high
(it is shorter and fatter than it's 5 gal. cousin). If 7 gal. is not big
enough, I will look for the 10 gal. Gott.
Q2) I found a pizza cooking "sheet" that could be used as a false bottom
for the above mash/lauter tun. Actually, it is not a true sheet, but a
heavy duty, rigid aluminium screen "for crispier crusts". I remember
past HBD threads about false bottoms concerning ratio of hole area to
surface area (percent open?) to be an important factor. Obviously, such
a screen has a very large percent-open ratio. My question, is why does
this matter? Isn't it the grain bed that is acting as the filter? If
so, then as long as the false bottom holds the grain back and lets the
wort flow, then all is good, correct? Also, if I adapt a RIMS system to
this (which I want to do) then it seems to follow that such a large
percent open area will allow for an easier flow of wort, which will
lessen the negative pressure below the grain bed, which will lessen any
disturbance to said grain bed from the pump. Any advice/comments?
A1) Tim asks about fruity/citrus flavors from 1056 Wyeast.
Tim, you're right, cascade does have a citrus flavor which is often
associated with grapefruit. If you have ruled out your hops as the
cause, then ale yeasts can cause fruity flavors, but more so when they
are fermented at higher temps. I have an article here from the ZYMURGY
Summer 1994 issue by Patrick Weix on just about every yeast culture you
can think of along with comments on style, attenuation, flocculation,
and other notes. Wyeast #1056 is described as fermenting "dry, finishes
soft, smooth and clean. Very well balanced." The notes also add that
the "optimum fermentation temp" is 68F (20C). "The cleanest of the
bunch, this is Sierra Navada's yeast. Probably the best availavle
all-around yeast." Therefore, I would conclude that the esters normally
associated with fruit flavors/aromas should be quite low for this ale
yeast if fermented at the right temp. If you don't have a method of
controlling your fermentation temps (cool cellar, fridge, etc.) and are
fermenting in this summer heat, that may be your cause.
I've found Partick's article to be very valuable and would like to see
it on the FAQs list on Spencer's Web page. I know that Patrick at least
use to be a member of the HBD, so if you are out there Pat, would you
contribute your article to the public? Or would you mind if I
transcribed it and submitted it to the Web?
+------------------------------+---------------------------------------------+
| Keith Royster, E.I.T. | We don't know why beer-drinking rodents |
| Environmental Engineer | develope fewer tumors. Follow-up studies |
| NC-DEHNR / Air Quality | must be done. |
| (704) 663-1699 | - Dr. Richard Nelson |
| Royster@mro.ehnr.state.nc.us | University of Illinois, 1968 |
+------------------------------+---------------------------------------------+
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 10:31:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Trub
GRMarkel writes:
<Looking at my Zap-Pap I figured I have a
<pretty good filter bed of spent grains, it is still warm (140 deg.) so should
<be free of bacteria, just haven't had the nerve to pass a finished batch
<through the grain on its way to the carboy.
No, no. Dont do this. What you have is *spent* grains, throw em away!
What you want is to sanitize your Zapap and line it with whole fresh
hops. The hops will form a hop back to remove the trub. Only problem
is if you dont want a beer with a big hoppy aroma, which this will give.
The Zapap may be a bit oversized to be a good hop back, but it will work
given enough hops.
Jim Busch
busch@mews.gsfc.nasa.gov
"DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 10:45:15 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Questions about specific gravity and extract
Sergio
I think that Martin was referring to one pound of sucrose in a gallon of
*solution*. You have added a pound *to* a gallon of water, which will
result in more than a gallon of solution. I think this will account for
your error.
The reason for SG rather than Plato being a standard in homebrewing is
historical. All of the early information (such as it was) came from
England, where SG is the standard in the brewing industry and became so
for English homebrewing. In American home winemaking, degrees Brix is
standard, as it is for the industry, because the information came from
industry (Philip Wagner was one influential author of 25 or more years
ago).
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 10:46:59 EST
From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna@relay.com
Subject: Religion and beer
Soapbox broken, climbing onto keg:
I have no problem with HBD discussion of beer-related religion; or is that
religion-related beer? Hey, the HBD is a sociological organism governed by
our collective conscious as expressed through our postings. It's the sum
total of the personalities and philosophies of all participants. It lives,
grows, changes, etc. as we do, because "it is us". Yea, we have a beer
focus - does that mean we can't muse about how the rest of the universe
might relate (or not relate) to beer?
If a thread is of interest, others will respond. If not, it will die. If
one is offended by a thread, go ahead and say so! If you don't want to
post, *PG DOWN* or scroll forward. If it gets too overwhelming, don't read
for a couple of days - or unsubscribe.
People know we are about beer. The "collective" will keep us on subject.
For me at least, the occasional beer-related detour thread makes it all the
more fun. If the detour ends up a new interstate hgwy, it will split off
of it's own accord and go it's own direction. I don't think HBD is in any
jeopardy from *beer-related* detour threads; but (IMHO) HBD quality would
suffer should we try to preemptively shut them down as some have suggested.
Relax, have a homebrew. Don't worry - be happy.
-Tim
Tim Fields / Vienna, VA, USA / timf@relay.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 8:57:06 MDT
From: Norman C. Pyle <npyle@hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM>
Subject: 1056 vs. Cascades
Tim Fields wrote:
>RE Wyeast 1056, I am finding several of my 1056 beers to have a pronounced
>flavor of fruit/citrus. Not a bad flavor by any means; just not my
Sounds like you're using Cascade hops. 1056 is a very clean yeast, very
little fruity esters at normal fermentation temps.
>preference. Ferment temps run 66 degF to 70; averaging just about 68. They
And these are normal temps...
>do hit 70 once or twice during ferment. Extract has been Alexander's; hop
>pellets cascades for flavor and aroma. Thanks to HBD advice, plenty of
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Bingo.
>aeration and good pitch rates :-)
>
>Initially I put this fruit flavor off to the cascades, which is described
>as being citrusy/fruity/even grapefruit. It's been pointed out that Sierra
Exactly.
>Nevada and Liberty don't have this fruit flavor and suggested that this
SNPA and Liberty both have an obvious citrus component to my taste.
>fruit could really be from the 1056. Does 1056 tend to produce fruity
>flavors in these temp ranges?
Don't know about the Liberty, but the SNPA yeast is supposed to *BE* 1056, or
virtually the same as 1056. So this leaves you with a recipe very similar to
SNPA: same yeast, same hops. I would expect similar flavors, and in your
case, I'd blame it on the Cascades. This isn't badness, IMO.
Cheers,
Norm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 10:19:49 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Subject: Blueberry.
> From: Kenneth K Goodrow <goodrow@orion.etsu.edu>
> Finally, Blueberry Brew -- I want to make some, have access to a patch of
> free blueberries, but have no recipes. I see so many raspberry recipes,
> but not blueberry. Let me know what you know. Thanks.
I'd say take a recipe you find for a rasberry beer and double or triple the
quantity to figure out how much blueberries to add. Blueberries are far more
subtle than rasberries, especially when the sweetness has fermented away.
Perhaps an already sweeter beer style might be appropriate.
Pregnancy - Drinking later in pregnancy will be less harmful than earlier.
Religion - the only thing worse than the religion thread is the thread about
whether or not we should drop the religion thread. (Or this thread, about...)
-R
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1780, 07/13/95
*************************************
-------
