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HOMEBREW Digest #1770
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/07/01 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1770 Sat 01 July 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Bad chile beer - Diagnosis? (Brian McGovney)
Seeking London (and area) places to drink and stay (Martin Wilde)
Water Synthesis Series on the Web ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
re: diacetyl for ESB/IPA (Keith Frank)
Re: #2(3) Homebrew Digest #1766 (June 27, 1995) (RobHaiber)
Motorizing the Maltmill(tm) - Recommendations sought... (Robert S Wallace)
hop freshness (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
hop identification (Rob Lauriston)
copper vs stainless steel ("terence tegner")
copper vs stainless steel ("terence tegner")
Blank Mail Note (Tom_Tills.wbst214)
Laaglanders malt (RevEd - Ed Blonski)
Grain bags, Seltzer etc. (Steven Lichtenberg)
Ultra hops? (Steve Zabarnick)
Sam Piper's rebuttal on Styles & Judging (dhvanvalkenburg)
search for Real Ale book (Chuck Wettergreen)
no more bottles! (ClearBeer)
Yeast Ranching Guide for Busy(Lazy) People (ESMPD)" <gcunning@Census.GOV>
Secondary fermentation in plastic bucket (larry.carden)
Crushed Lupulin Glands? (Ken Schroeder)
malt vinegar (MILLER.SA)
How's my agua? (Jeff Guillet)
Whole Hops vs. PPProcessed (Norman C. Pyle)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 1995 12:27:46 -0700
From: chemist@io.com (Brian McGovney)
Subject: Bad chile beer - Diagnosis?
Merry met to one and all. I've recently made my third batch of
beer, a chile ale listed in the (Winter?) Zymurgy as a silver medal winner.
Opened it on May 25, and it tasted .. pickled? Vegetal? Sulfurous? These
words all come to mind, in that order.
So I let it sit for a month. Still there, very little diminishment.
I'll let it sit for a few more months if neccesary (the recipe stated it was
judged after four months in the bottle), but I must admit I am beginning to
Worry. My sanitary precautions are second to none (my fiance often worrys
about my mental health re: kitchen anality), and I used bleach water on
*everything*. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to save this very
spicy beer, which I would love were it not being overpowered? Here's the
recipe:
For 5 Gallons U.S.:
5.5 lbs. light DME
1 lb. Cara-Pils Malt
1.75 oz. Cluster Hops (boiling) 7.0% alpha-acid
1.25 oz. Willamette Hops (bittering) 4.5% alpha-acid
0.75 oz. Willamette Hops (aroma) 4.5% alpha-acid
14 g. Yeast Labs Whitbread Ale Yeast
10 chopped serrano chile peppers
0.75 c. dextrose (priming)
O.G. = 1.050
F.G. = 1.022
NOTES: Grains steeped for 15 min @ 150-165 F. Hops added to boil at 0, 40,
and 55 min, respectively. One hour boil. Chiles added at end of boil,
pasteurized for 15 minutes, threw all into carboy w/cold water.
Fermentation began VERY sluggishly 17 hours after pitching.
Transferred to secondary after one week. Toward the end of fermentation,
the sediment seemed to "creep up" the sides of the carboy a little. This
leads me to suspect contamination, dagnabbit.
Any advice will be appreciated and rewarded with civic kickbacks, a piece of
the local numbers racket, and possibly election to public office. Posted
answers preferred for teaching purposes, but email is OK. Thanks a lot in
advance!
-Brian "yeah, but my CHILI chili worked out great!" McGovney
chemist@io.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 95 12:48:00 PDT
From: Martin Wilde <Martin_Wilde@ccm.jf.intel.com>
Subject: Seeking London (and area) places to drink and stay
Looks like I will have the rare opportunity to spend two nights in
London next month. I will probably stay in the Victoria Station area
since I will be car-less.
Are there any good recommendations of where to drink and stay while in
the London area?
thanks
Martin Wilde
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 95 14:16:00 MST
From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR@afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil>
Subject: Water Synthesis Series on the Web
For those who've been following AJ deLanges's wonderful water series
with enthusiam and anticipation, I've been capturing his posts and
loading them up at The Brewery web site for your continued enjoyment.
I know quite a few readers have privately encouraged AJ to continue
producing solutions for the remaining 'brewing towns' listed in
Dave Draper's Waters of the World paper (also at the Brewery), so I
anticipate adding those results in as time goes by.
Please take a look at what I've done and feel free to send me suggested
improvements regarding the *organization* of the information. Any
comments regarding the analyses themselves and chemistry in particular
should of course be directed to AJ.
The tables are at "http://alpha.rollanet.org/~fleming/watersyn.html"
through the graciousness of Karl Lutzen and Mark Stevens.
KRF Colorado Springs
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 1995 15:56:57 -0500
From: keithfrank@dow.com (Keith Frank)
Subject: re: diacetyl for ESB/IPA
***** from Bruce Debolt *****
Graham Barron - I tried to e-mail you but it bounced.
On 6-28 Graham asks:
>Finally, I'd like to solicit opinions from everyone about a good ale
>yeast that will give me a firm but not overpowering diacetyl flavor.
I recently did an interesting split batch experiment with an IPA, 1.060 OG.
I split an identical IPA wort, 1.060 OG, into two fermenters, one with Wyeast
1056 (American Ale), the other with Wyeast 1968 (ESB). Both fermented out
to a FG of 1.013. The differences in taste are interesting. The 1056 beer
is bitter from the beginning, sort of an "in your face" bitterness, but the
1968 beer has a mellow diacetyl taste at the beginning, then the bitterness
kicks in and lingers nicely. I like them both but prefer the ESB version,
as do most people I've given them to. I think the Wyeast 1968 yeast will
work for you. By the way I didn't do any "dropping" as you may have read
on recent posts, just the usual careful racking with minimum aeration.
Another thing I noticed was that when I poured the first bottle of
Wyeast 1968 IPA, it smelled just like Redhook ESB, which is one of my
favorite commercial beers. Now I know what yeast to use to try to
duplicate it. I've seen Redhook clone recipes posted using Wyeast 1098?
English Ale, but I think 1968 might work better.
This was the first time I'd tried this yeast, after reading many positive
comments on HBD. I will definitely use it more often. I'll post the
details of the recipe, conditions, etc. in a few weeks.
Bruce DeBolt
Lake Jackson, TX
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 1995 15:42:50 -0700
From: RobHaiber@eworld.com
Subject: Re: #2(3) Homebrew Digest #1766 (June 27, 1995)
In reply to James.M.Herter's RFI on starting a home-brew club:
JAMES,
The Association of brewers has a file on this, or if you are on eWorld you
can download a fully formatted file in the Beer & Brewing Central. I am sysop
of B&BC.
The AOB address for this file, and others, is: <<info@aob.org>>
More information can be requested from the Association's AUTOMATED
information e-mail line by sending e-mail to info@aob.org and including one
or more of the following key words in the body of the e-mail. Please do not
expect a "real person" to read e-mail sent to info@aob.org.
AHAINFO: Request more information about the American Homebrewers
Association, including membership information.
CATALOG: Request our on-line catalogue.
HOWTOBREW: A short guide explaining how to brew your first batch of
homebrew!
CALENDAR: The American Homebrewers Association's Calendar of Events.
CLUBLIST: The AHA's list of registered homebrew clubs. (58K file).
GABFINFO: Information about the upcoming 1995 Great American Beer Festival.
STYLES: The 1995 National Homebrew Competition Style Guidelines.
(Verbose descriptions of the styles)
CHART: The Style Guidelines Chart. This file is a table of
gravities, IBUs, colors, etc. Please note that this chart
is 120 characters wide and will not display properly on
80 column screens.
NHCRULES: The 1995 National Homebrew Competition Rules. (Excluding the
style guidelines in the STYLES file.)
WINNERS: The winners list of the 1995 National Homebrew Competition.
INDEX: Partial index of "zymurgy", 1985-1994.
STARTCLUB: How to start and run a homebrew club.
TEACH: How to teach a homebrew class.
CRAFTBREW: The Institute for Brewing Studies' Craft-Brewing Industry chart.
AOBINFO: General information about the Association of Brewers and its
four divisions.
HBDAY: A quick fact sheet about National Homebrew Day, May 6, 1995.
BEERTIME: Schedule for Planet Beer, the American Homebrewers Associations
National Homebrewers Conference.
Other Internet services:
WWW Users: Check out our World Wide Web site! The URL is:
http://www.aob.org/aob
Membership Send e-mail to expire@aob.org to find out
Verification: how to check your expiration date by e-mail.
(I'm still testing this, please send comments to comments@aob.org).
E-mail orders: Send e-mail to orders@aob.org
(AHA membership is $29 for Domestic,
$34 Canadian, or $44 International)
Customer service: Send e-mail to service@aob.org
Please note that we are currently adding more information to the Association
of Brewers' info line, so keep checking and stay updated on what's happening
at the Association of Brewers. If you have any comments about this utility,
please send e-mail to webmaster@aob.org.
American Homebrewers Association, "zymurgy", and Great American Beer Festival
are registered trademarks of the Association of Brewers. All contents of the
Association of Brewers' info e-mail line are copyright 1995. All prices are
subject to change.
Hope this helps.
Rob Haiber, sysop Beer & Brewing Central
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 1995 17:47:25 CDT
From: Robert S Wallace <rwallace@iastate.edu>
Subject: Motorizing the Maltmill(tm) - Recommendations sought...
Fellow Homebrewer-tinkerers:
I am seeking information from successful motorizers of the JSP
Maltmill (tm), regarding:
1. Optimal roller speed for good overall crush (non-adjustable mill).
2. Motor speed and horsepower used.
3. Pulley ratios for drive and driven pullies. Plus souces for said pulleys.
I recently posted a similar query to the Usenet group rec.crafts.brewing and
received a few useful replies; I'd also like to sample the relevant wisdom
here on the HBD, and compose/post a summary of how to motorize this excellent
unit to both groups, based upon received responses.
At present I have 1 inch drive and 7 inch driven pulleys available to me.
With a 1725 rpm motor this gives a 246 rpm roller (shaft) speed. Does this
fall in the range "acceptable" for milling grain, including malted wheat?
Will I over-fragment/flour the grain at this speed? Source for larger
diameter driven pulley with "thin" bore to fit the MM shaft?
To save HBD BW, please reply to: rwallace@iastate.edu; I will post all
summaries and cc to those responding. Thanks for your help.
Rob Wallace, Iowa State Univ. Botany Dept., Ames, IA 50011 rwallace@iastate.edu
------------------------------
Date: 28 Jun 95 13:16:00 -0500
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: hop freshness
Paul writes:
>The US- type hops in plug form are a new
>generation of pellet types, taken from US to UK, turned into plugs and
>shipped back to US. The quality varies! In the US, unless you buy your hops
>in at least 5 kilo bales, sealed under vacuum, and keep them frozen, plugs are
>better than anything else you can buy.
With all due respect, Paul, I beg to differ. One retailer I'm familiar with
buys his whole hops from Freshops and HopUnion in 10 to 25 pound bags in the
early fall, right after harvest. He then immediately splits them up into
1 pound and 1 ounce oxygen-barrier packages and purges with CO2 before heat
sealing. These are all stored cold until his customers buy them. I would
say (and I'm sure you would agree) that with this type of procedure the hops
are as good as if not better than plugs. Homebrewers have the advantage over
commercial brewers in that they are able to afford to buy their hops packaged
in small packages and they have the room to store several months worth of
hops in the freezer. I visited a half dozen or so breweries in Britain last
year (from Edinburgh to Faversham) and although the bulk of their hops were
stored cold, the current open (50kg?) bale just sat open at room temperature.
In one brewery there were three or four bales sitting out at room temperature!
>They are not as good as the best
>fresh East Kent Goldings [whole] hops you get in Kent, but what is!
Surely! Ideally, one would like to travel to London every year for the
GBBF then wander around the UK till the hop harvests are done and then
bring back a year's worth of East Kent Goldings (yum!). However, I think
the USDA might have something to say about that!
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 95 01:09:13 -0700
From: robtrish@noif.ncp.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston)
Subject: hop identification
Scott Bratlie asked about identifying hop varieties on the bine. Wanting to
start a thead, I'll pig on BW with meagre knowledge and hope hop-growing
lurkers will show me up.
The best ID on your hops will be if someone can track down the
Washington State development link. Meanwhile...
I'm in the same situation as you, having hops that are growing without
knowing what variety they are. I bought some hops from the local nursery;
on the hills around here some people use them as quick covers for the tall
posts supporting decks, etc.
The shape of the leaf is one means of identification. I had a pamphlet
from Haas which gave the typical leaf shape of different varieties. Hops
have lots of different leaf shapes. They range from the simple spade shape
(deltoid, I think the botanists would call it and that's the end of the
jargon I know), to three pronged and five pronged leaves. I also had bines
growing from two known varieties, Willamette and Mt. Hood. Mt. Hood was
also a hybrid, and I noticed (what seemed to my horticultural ignorance to
be peculiar) that different leaves on the same bine were different shapes,
and some leaves were 'mitten shaped'; that is, spade shaped on one side and
on the other side was half of a three-pronged leaf -- if you can picture
that. So if yours is a hybrid, you might also have a variety of leaf shapes
that make ID more challenging.
My unknowns had broad deltoid leaves and I casually call them Cluster
or Cascade -- well, I actually call them Swan Lake hops after the nursery
where I bought them. My Willamettes have a five-pronged leaf with narrow
fingers. I have also noticed that on mature stalks, with the thickness of
pencils, some are pale green and some (Mt . Hood) are dark (brownish-red).
I don't know if this can be used for ID or not.
As you say, ID is not much of a problem. Deciding how to brew with
them can be a problem. One theory is to use them for aroma because the
alpha isn't known. Then you have to judge whether the aroma is desirable.
It's hard to go from evaluation of dried hops to evaluation of hops on the
bine, because the ones on the bine are moist and growing. You try to smell
them between your hands and all you get is the smell of fresh mowed grass --
green and wet. Last year I used most of mine in bittering brown ales. With
some acidity from the malt, the exact hop bitterness balance was less
important.
Rob Lauriston, The Low Overhead Brewery <robtrish@noif.ncp.bc.ca>
"Moderation in all things, especially moderation" Vernon, British Columbia
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 16:09:20 +0200
From: "terence tegner" <tegbrew@iaccess.za>
Subject: copper vs stainless steel
Could the brains on the HBD please tell me why a pressurised
fermenter made out of copper is constructed from 1 mm material
whereas a stainless equivalent needs 3 mm material? Is copper
tougher that stainless or are there other factors that I know nothing
about? Your wisdom would be appreciated.
I am still convinced that beer brewed in copper has a much rounder
taste and more body than the same recipe brewed in other types of
vessels. Am I alone in this conviction?
Thanks to all of you out their for your individual and collective
help in the past. This is what the HBD is all about IMHO.
I do wish the robot would get its brain seen to as I get withdrawal
symptoms every time it hic-cups and I don't get my HBD fix.
regards
Terence Tegner.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 16:00:01 +0200
From: "terence tegner" <tegbrew@iaccess.za>
Subject: copper vs stainless steel
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 05:30:58 PDT
From: Tom_Tills.wbst214@xerox.com
Subject: Blank Mail Note
>Plugs. An obvious drawback of plugs, BTW, is that the pressure used to
>Create them is enough to burst probably all of the lupulin glands in the
>flowers. This should, in theory, expose them more to oxygen. Combine that
>with the long boat ride(s), and I can certainly believe the poor assessment
I thought we were comparing plugs to pellets. I don't see how pressing the
plugs would expose the lupulin to more oxygen than grinding them into little
bits, then using pressure to create little plugs made up of those little bits.
If the manufacturer cares about his product anyway, the hops would be
immediately be packaged in oxygen barrier bags for transport.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 08:38:57 -0500
From: reved@ix.netcom.com (RevEd - Ed Blonski)
Subject: Laaglanders malt
Ok, so colour me naive, colour stupid, (some of you will just laugh and
chalk it up to being a Rush fan!:) )
I went to a local brew store (actually not so local as its an hour from my
house. Lovely living in the boonies!) and bought 12 lbs of Laaglanders malt,
thinking it sounded good for a barley wine. I ask the wisdom of the digest
about this and recieved three very helpful (if not disappointing) replies
from Algis R. Korzonas, Michael MacGuire, and John Glaser (not a Rush fan!:)
) They have told me that Laaglanders is not the malt to use. Then I see in
the 6/26 issue of the digest a blurb about how one brew shop stop selling
Laaglander because of complaints.
So, my question is, what do I do with 12 lbs of this malt? I've got two
cultures of Belgian Abbey yeast going right now, and I don't know what to
do? I've got a pound of cystal malt, and 6 lbs of Munton and Fison light
malt extract. Can I add 3 lbs of the Laaglanders and get a nice dark beer?
Again, I put myself on the mercy and wisdom of the digest!
BTW, please send me any outstanding Barley Wine recipes you may have. I have
Cats Meow II, and John Glaser sent me one, but the more the merrier!
TIA
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
*Rev. Ed Blonski (reved@ix.netcom.com) "But I'm young enough to remember*
*Christ Lutheran Church, LC-MS the future and the way things *
*White Cloud, MI ought to be!" NP *
*Rush fan (the band and the man!) *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 09:13:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven Lichtenberg <steve@inet>
Subject: Grain bags, Seltzer etc.
In response to recent postings from Troy and Robert in reference to using
Zapap tuns and/or grain bags I thought I would relate my experiences.
Prior to switching to my current set up using a copper manifold in my
mash tun, I used a grain bag in a bucket set up. I took a piece of thin
fabric, in my case an old drapery sheer, and cut it to fit my plastic
fermenter. I sized this bag to fit snugly to the diameter of the
fermenter and made it long enough for a 4" cuff over the top of the
bucket. I then put elastic in the top seam tight enough to fit overthe
bucket snugly. The bag goes into the bucket prior to adding the grains
and mash continues as usual. At sparge time, just open the vavle at the
bottom of the bucket as needed and add sparge water to the top. Works
great as you can mash and lauter in the same vessel, grains are held back
and all the other benefits of AG brewing are realised. I only changed to
the copper manifold system as I increased the size of my brewery and the
bag system would no longer be effective in my current set up.
_______________
Martin asked about his flat seltzers. Commercial soda dispensing systems
use a carbonator pump to carbonate the water as it is being dispensed.
This allows for the high volume needed by these systems. Most of these
run at 60-65 psi. That is why you see fountain soda with that great big
head nad relatively little carbonation in the soda. The only way to keep
ANY carbonation in the soda is to put lots of CO2 into the line. Try
upping the pressure on these tanks to 60psi and see if this makes a
difference. Keep in mind that the kegs we all use were originally made
for the soda industry and are designed to handle VERY high pressures (I
think they are tested to 150 psi).
Hope this helps--
**** ---- "There's always time for a Homebrew!" ---- ****
O|~~| ------------ Steven Lichtenberg --------------- |~~|0
`--' ---------- steve@inet.ttgva.com ------------- `--'
-------- Programmer/Analyst - TTG ---------
---------- Alexandria, VA ------------
-----------------------------------
ENJOY LIFE--THIS IS NOT A REHEARSAL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 11:18:23 -0400
From: steve@snake.appl.wpafb.af.mil (Steve Zabarnick)
Subject: Ultra hops?
Is anyone familiar with the a hop variety called ultra? I recently won some
in a competition and would like to know what type of beer style in which
they would be appropriate. I believe the alpha acid percentage was 4%.
Steve Zabarnick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 95 08:25:42 PST
From: dhvanvalkenburg@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Subject: Sam Piper's rebuttal on Styles & Judging
Again I bring you Sam Piper's comments. As before responses can be
made to my Email at: dhvanvalkenburg@ccgate.hac.com. First a few
comments of my own. Sam is an excellent brewer and contest judge. He
has won many of S. Calif. contests, including at least one best of
show that I am aware of. Incidentally the best of show was a
peppermint porter. Now, that's creativity for you and I don't think
it was entered in the porter category.
Don
---------------------------------------------------------------------
In the past year I've written a number of essays for the Barley Bandit
Homebrew Club Newsletter, The Brew HaHa. Some, my "Beer Crafter"
series, are designed to inspire quiet thought and have touched on the
spiritual and historical aspects of brewing. But I have also written
an opinionated, cantankerous, and humorous series designed to engender
debate. These are my "Beer Curmudgeon" essays, one of which, about
beer styles, was copied onto the Internet by my friend, Don Van
Valkenburg. Not having a modem or a mailbox myself, I'm a Net
neophyte and was surprised at the response I got.
Thanks to all who took the time to read or respond, and if you are not
yet bored to death with either me or the subject, here's a few more
words, this time intended for the Internet, and reflective of your
feedback.
First, I'm a little surprised at the reaction I got to the essay, for
I've usually been a champion of excellence and a "go for it" kind of
guy. Though to listen to me criticize standards and categories one
could get the idea that I'm just a ham and eggs brewer, somebody
content to drink whatever he ferments, without a care to quality,
growth, or the achievements of those who came before him. But had I
anticipated the large audience I got and the fact that I was speaking
to people who did not know me, I might have been more precise. Let me
be so now.
Most people who took issue with me focused on the anarchy they thought
would prevail without style standards, largely in the hundreds of
contests that now exist. Many also spoke of the challenge and
learning opportunity presented by striving to brew a beer within a
certain style. These points are, I believe, valid. I could easily
champion them myself. But for the sake of our mutual growth, I would
like to throw out a challenge: let's see if we can hold conflicting
ideas in our minds and our debate, suggesting that both may be true.
The poles of thought within our debate may be like the difference
between Jazz and Classical music. Like classical music, with it's
narrow prescriptions for form, tonality, balance, meter, and
arrangement, brewing to a style standard does not allow for much
variation as the styles tend to be defined and interpreted, but they
do develop one's skill as a brewer. Also, they make judging rather
easy from an evaluative perspective: if you know the style definition
and your palate is working, no problem. It gets to be rather
objective, so long as you don't have to tell a Bitter from a Pale Ale.
Consensus is easy to reach.
However, in my previous essay [and in my remarks now] I hope to
champion creativity. One of the hallmarks of homebrewing, and I think
one of the essences of our hobby, is the extent of creative
experimentation we can do. This is what distinguishes us from the
professional brewer, who is subject to the rigors of the market place.
Budweiser, Miller, Coors-- these guys cannot in all honesty make a
beer that is only enjoyable by a small group or in very specialized
conditions. Their business is based upon large economies of scale.
Micro brewers, thank God, can take greater risks and go after narrower
niches, but still they must have a market that will pay their expenses
or they are out of business. Pub brewers have even greater
opportunity for variation, but they still have to sell their beer to
hundreds of people, who also have to come back and buy more, or
goodbye grundy tanks.
But not Homebrewers! We can go where they cannot, and we do, but I
don't think that our contests, our judge training, and our style
definitions address these unique qualities of our hobby. I do see a
difference between homebrewers and professional brewers, and I think
it is important for each group to support the special needs of
themselves. Something that is special and unique to homebrewers is
our jazzy creativity, our stretching of definition, our tendency to
add and delete steps, ingredients-- what have you. But do our
contests encourage us to be homebrewers, or do our contests encourage
us to imitate professional brewers?
I do not believe that the purpose of homebrewing is to suck up to
professional brewers or to live within their constraints. Don't get
me wrong- I have the utmost respect for commercial brewers. I might
like to be one myself some day. But while we both make beer, we
operate in different milieus. I believe that homebrew clubs and
homebrew competitions should encourage and foster the uniqueness of
homebrewing. I do not subscribe to a perspective that sees commercial
brewers and beers as better than homebrewers or as something
homebrewers should strive to emulate. I see us as different. But I
don't see that our style guidelines or our competitions recognize that
fact.
I would argue that despite the obvious skill as a brewer one achieves
in brewing to traditional styles, that in the process of rigorous
judging to those styles one is encouraging a person to brew to past or
present commercial market choices, with the result that what is
special about HOME brewing is being sacrificed and replaced by what is
special to PROFESSIONAL brewing.
What would I do? I have three suggestions. They may not all be
compatible with each other, but while the BJCP is in a period of
reorganization, perhaps those in the fray would like some input. 1.
Add a criterion to the evaluation process to allow a judge to grant
points for creative variation on a style. Even more important,
integrate into judge training an expectation for judges that they be
flexible and able to tell a flaw from a successful variation. [No,
that's not easy, and my arguments have never been designed to create a
cop-out but to honor the hobby. ] 2. Abolish the specialty and the
fruit-beer categories, forcing judges and brewers to come to grips with
our creativity. Maybe a cherry porter should be in the porter
category. 3. Double up some categories: have a competition for
Classical Porter, and a separate one for Porter variations.
This last idea might be worth an experimental try by someone out there
with a contest large enough to do this in a category or two.
Finally one last thought. Is Jazz musical anarchy? Many would argue
that it is.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 12:42:59 -0500
From: chuckmw@mcs.com (Chuck Wettergreen)
Subject: search for Real Ale book
Does anyone know if CAMRA sells it's publications in the US? I'm looking
for _Brewing_Your_[Own?]_Real _Ale_at_Home_. It is supposedl;y published by
CAMRA. Is this the same book written by Graham Weeler and Roger Protz? Is
this the correct title?
I'm in the Chicago area and am interested in a local supplier.
TIA,
Chuck
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
Chuck Wettergreen
chuckmw@mcs.com
Geneva, Il
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 13:47:19 -0400
From: ClearBeer@aol.com
Subject: no more bottles!
Hi Scott:
I saw your post on HBD and thought I would offer you my views since I have
tried just about every way imaginable to keep from bottling beer.
Party Pigs: these 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 gallon kegs work pretty good. But be aware
that the self inflating bladders which go into them have a short shelf life
and if they are too old they don't dispense all the beer. Then you are stuck
looking at good beer and no way to get it out. The bladders go for about
$3.50 each plus shipping.
5 Liter Minis: these 1.32 gallon kegs work even better! Since the dispensing
system is CO2 in an external bulb, if you run out of CO2 just pop a new bulb
in and pour away. Try to find the system that uses 16gram bulbs, they work
the best. Also these kegs are easy to fill and there is no clamping system
with lots of screws like the pig has. 16gram bulbs are $1.25 each in a 10
pack.
Cornelius Kegs: after using the previous two methods with good but not
fantastic results I decided to try a real kegging system.
This is the best. Easy to fill, easy to clean and VERY easy to drink.
The only draw back is the size. You will need an extra frig or some other
method of cooling, unless you are a bachelor and don't use your frig for
food! I have seen used 5 gal. Corny kegs for $20, used CO2 tanks with
regulators for $50. All you will need is a couple of fittings and hoses.
You also mentioned "force carbonating", the pig and the minis cannot be
forced carbonated. You will have to prime them and deal with the sediment.
But the Corny kegs can be forced at 30psi and believe me not having to deal
with the sediment is great. My last batch took 2 1/2 weeks to brew and I
kegged it directly from the secondary (no priming bucket). I forced
carbonated the keg and started drinking it the next day, didn't have to wait
two weeks like you do with the pig or the minis.
I think having a Corny keg for home and a few minis to take to friends is the
best of both worlds.
Good luck,
Larry Hawley
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 13:53:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jerry Cunningham (ESMPD)" <gcunning@Census.GOV>
Subject: Yeast Ranching Guide for Busy(Lazy) People
Hi everybody,
I know there are better ways to propogate yeast than my method - they
have been discussed here by persons much more qualified than I. But hey, I
don't have a lot of time to step up yeast cultures from a slant to a
frothing 10 gallon starter from hell. (This is not a slam at people who
do this - actually, I'm quite envious). I originally wanted to propogate
yeast to save money. I'm not sure if the extra effort is worth it just to
save a few bucks a batch. What _does_ make it worthwhile is the great
starts you get using the 2nd (or later) "generation"! Here's my method:
Extra stuff you need:
- --------------------
Pyrex measuring cup
lighter
grain alcohol
q-tips
12 oz beer bottle (for storage)
-or-
whatever you use to make a starter
I use the yeast from the secondary, since I figure it's already been
"washed" once, and probably has a higher yeast:trub ratio. I've heard
some people suggest that you are grabbing less-floculant yeast this way,
but I haven't noticed this in practice.
Extra things to do when bottling:
- --------------------------------
* Sanitize measuring cup, bottle, cap (if storing) or stopper & airlock
(if making starter).
* When racking to bottling bucket, keg, or whatever - leave a small
amount of beer covering yeast at the bottom of the secondary.
* Swirl the carboy to resuspend the yeast (and yes, some trub).
* Swab with alcohol and flame: mouth of carboy, spout of measuring cup,
and the mouth of the bottle.
* Pour yeast into measuring cup. Pour yeast from cup to bottle/starter.
Cap and store in fridge, or put airlock on your starter and watch it go!
(my last starter was foaming out the airlock in about 8 hours).
I've had great success with this admittedly less than ideal method the
last year or so. I usually don't go more than 3-4 generations before
starting from a fresh culture, and I've only tried it with Wyeast 1056
(American), Wyeast 1028? (London), and Wyeast 2112 (California). It's a
middle-of-the-road approach for those of us who don't have a lot of free time.
Jerry Cunningham
Annapolis, MD
------------------------------
Date: 29 Jun 95 09:35:00 -0500
From: larry.carden@pscmail.ps.net
Subject: Secondary fermentation in plastic bucket
Tom Williams writes:
>Questions:
>1. Why are plastic buckets unsuitable for secondary?
>2. Is the answer to question #1 serious enough to warrant siphoning
>(and aerating) the beer twice just to reuse the glass carboy?
>I normally use my glass carboy for primary, siphon to the plastic
>bucket for secondary. At bottling time, I put the priming sugar
>solution in the glass carboy and siphon back to it for bottling. I
>haven't noticed any problems with this, but I am always on the lookout
>for improvements.
Answers:
1. Secondary fermentation is an extended period of time. The plastic
buckets
allow air in (the plastic is air-permeable), over time, and oxygen is bad
for
beer (and other foods). So the top homebrewers, Papazian's books, etc.,
recommend using a glass carboy for secondary fermentation.
2. You can very easily siphon without aerating. Just don't allow the beer
to
splash. Keep the end of the tube under the beer.
>From all the advice I've read, if you use a plastic bucket during
fermentation,
it should be for primary, as long as the yeast completes fermentation within
a
week. Some low flocculating yeasts, such as Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan, have
taken 2 weeks to ferment in my primary carboy! I would not want to use a
plastic bucket for that, although maybe in a plastic bucket the 2 weeks
would be
reduced...
Another disadvantage of plastic buckets is that they are not as easy to
sanitize, in the long run. In my experience, they are harder to clean the
smell
out of, after being used for fermentation. Plastic is easily scratched, and
bacteria can hide in the scratches and crevices. That's what the books say.
You may get pleasing results with your approach, and after all, that's all
that
matters. For me, using a glass carboy all the way just puts more factors in
my
favor, and results in a consistently great beer. I don't like to waste the
time
and money of a bad batch. My first homebrew was fermented in a plastic
primary,
and I will never go back.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 95 11:47:44 PDT
From: kens@lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder)
Subject: Crushed Lupulin Glands?
Norm writes that the pressure to create hop plugs would "burst probably
all of the lupulin glands." IMHO, do not support this theroy, in fact,
I tend to disagree. But, I have no evidence to support either argument.
Does anybody have evidence (nothin but the facts...;-) to support either
side of this "bursted lupulin gland" argument?
I am brewing with plugs this weekend. I will try to pull some of the cones
out of the boil as soon as the cones are "freed" from the plug and examine
the glands. I'll report back what a non-magnified visual expection yeilds.
This brings up another question : what about pellets and crushed (ground)
lupulin glands?
I can see an argument for the oxygen exposure, if the hop are not properly
stored. IMHO (again), all hops should be in a sealed oxygen barrier bags
and placed in a freezer. Flowers, pellets, plugs and "leaves". This should
solve the oxygen issue. Should "perfect" storage be an issue, I believe, in
equal conditions, plugs and pellets should perform about the same in oxygen
exposure issues. Any evidence to support this?
I still support the, idea that plugs are the superior packaging form for
most homebrewers, if not all brewers. I am looking to support or invalidate
my opinion with facts.
Hoppy Brewin' (of course)
Ken Schroeder
Sequoia Brewing
------------------------------
Date: 29 Jun 95 14:59:25 EDT
From: <MILLER.SA@ocf.compuserve.com>
Subject: malt vinegar
*Message:
From: MILLER.SA at OCMTV01
Date: 6/29/95 2:43PM
To: >internet:homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com at OCF_INFORM
Subject: malt vinegar
Contents:
Text item: Text_1
Have any of you tried making malt vinegar, perhaps as a side project? If so I
would be curious to know the procedure. The only brand I've been able to find
is Heinz which has a fairly large amount of corn extract...(the
Bud-Mill-Ameri-swill of the malt vinegar world I guess). :)
Thanks,
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 1995 20:38:00 GMT
From: jeff.guillet@lcabin.com (Jeff Guillet)
Subject: How's my agua?
I recently got my water quality report from my water company. I've been
brewing extracts for the last year and a half and am ready to take the
plunge to all grain Would some kind soul please tell me how my water is
and what I should do to correct any problems?
Alkalinity (CaCO3) 54 mg/l
Calcium 21 mg/l
Chlorine 0.54 mg/l
Chloride 20.5 mg/l
Hardness (CaCO3) 84 mg/l
Iron 0.014 mg/l
Magnesium 5.3 mg/l
pH 7.7
Potassium 0.5 mg/l
Sodium 16 mg/l
Total Dissolved Solids 101 mg/l
Did I leave anything out? Thanks very much for your expertise!
BTW - Samuel Adams new Scotch Ale is *delicious!* (Jim Koch be damned).
Nice malty, peat smoked taste. The new Sam Adams Cherry Wheat, however,
sucks. WAY too much cherry for me.
-=Jeff=- Pacifica, CA
jeff.guillet@lcabin.com
* CMPQwk 1.42-R2 * Reg #1757 *
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 95 15:31:12 MDT
From: Norman C. Pyle <npyle@hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM>
Subject: Whole Hops vs. PPProcessed
I can't let these comments by Ken Schroeder go unchallenged (nothing
personal, Ken, maybe too much lupulin in my brain):
>The quality of hop plugs, IMHO, is outstanding. Pellets produce a
>glop at the bottom of my mash tun which the wort will not flow through.
>The quality of the hop bitterness, flavor and aroma seems fair to good.
>Pellets are execellent for dry hopping. The compact size makes them easy
>to get into the carboys. I have yet to see a bag of "flowers" contain
I find the aroma from fresh whole hops to be as good as it gets. Also,
whole hops are easier to separate from the wort, which for me is more
important than a little hassle getting them into the neck of the bottle.
OTOH, I'm not doing much dry hopping anymore. If I want do it, I just add
them to my kegs nowadays.
>mostly flowers. These bags should be called cone leaves or crushed cones.
I think the problem here is the source of your whole hops. I buy my hops
mail order, previously from The Hop Source and now from Just Hops (who bought
out THS). The quality of these hops is wonderful compared to what I've seen
in the local retail homebrew stores. The price is much better as well. I
buy at least a 6 month's supply each time, to make it more convenient. Yes,
this fills up my freezer, but what the heck. I'd rather see it stuffed with
green bags of humulus lupulus than with bread and bagels as my wife would
have it. As far as the condition of the cones, they are not 100% intact
cones, but they are usually in pretty fine shape, with a bright green color,
and no signs of oxidation.
>Flowers tend to oxidize, which not a problem with properly stored pellets
>and plugs. Flowers quality seems to go up and down and many times appear
ALL HOPS TEND TO OXIDIZE. This is not debatable. If you store your hops
cold in barrier packaging this is not much of an issue no matter what form
the hops come in.
>light green and brownish, a sure sign of aged hops. Probably the best
>testimony to plugs is the 90% plus cones I find in the mash tun after
>boiling. My hop utilization went up when I switched to plugs. That may be
>a subjective determination, but almost all who know my beers claim an
>increase in hoppiness. It is my hope that the superior packaging (IMHO)
>becomes popular and we may find plugs for all of our favorite hop varieties.
Plugs are a good form of hops, as are pellets. What I don't understand are
those who claim that taking fresh hops and chopping them into tiny bits,
then using great pressure (and its associated heat) to form them into
pellets, is going to improve them! And how can you take fresh whole hops,
send them across the ocean, compress them until all of the lupulin glands
burst and are exposed to oxygen, then send them back across the ocean, and
claim they are better? Pellets and plugs are more compact and sometimes
easier to dry hop with. I just can't buy the claims that hops are improved
by processing them.
Russell (two L's) Mast and I have been discussing this via email. He's seen
a lot of poor quality whole hops in retail stores, as have I. For whatever
reason, by the time they make the retail scene they aren't *usually* in the
best shape. I think this is why pellets and plugs have gained such a good
reputation. They take up less freezer/refrigerator space so they are
probably treated better by distributors and retailers who have limited cold
space. They may even store better under adverse conditions, which might
explain their reputation for better consistency, though I've never seen proof
of this.
I honestly don't think most people have ever seen good whole hops, at least
not consistently good ones. I never did until I started mail ordering them,
and until then, I guess I didn't really know the difference. Fresh whole hops
are available to homebrewers today, so seek and you will find, brew with them
and you will be happy, IMHO.
Cheers,
Norm
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1770, 07/01/95
*************************************
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