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HOMEBREW Digest #1766
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/06/27 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1766 Tue 27 June 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Boiler RIMS system (Glen Hathaway)
Dropping revisited (Domenick Venezia)
Acid washing yeast (Domenick Venezia)
sparge times (Wyss1364)
Re: Hop Plant Fertilizer (Dan Roman)
food grade VS brew grade extracts ("Keith Royster")
dropping and enzymes (Andy Walsh)
Salvaging gushers? (Nicholas Christopher)
RE: Converting a keg to a boiler (Greg Buckwalter)
RE: Harvesting fermenter yeast (Christopher Pickslay)
Please add (Mark King)
Rooty-Tooty-Fresh-N-Fruity Lambic (Otto Radtke )
carboy cooler ("mike spinelli")
BUZZ_OFF Results ("Houseman, David L [TR]")
Solution: *Never* have puffed or bulging 5l kegs again (david lawrence shea)
Flakey questions (Joseph.Fleming)
Secondary vessel ("Tom Williams")
ESB Recipe (Steven W. Schultz )
HomeBrewing in Israel (Nir Navot)
Homebrew Club Outline\Using Hop Teas\Dropping? ("Jim Herter")
Suboptimal Hop Combinations/Flux and Fermenter Flow ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
Smokey the Beer (John D. Pavao)
Filling a Sankey ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
Re: Sparge Arms for 15 gal. sys. (Dion Hollenbeck)
Brew pubs ("James Giacalone")
Grain Bag in Lauter Tun? (Troy Howard)
Hop Utilization at High Altitude ("LAVANSA0")
Puffed-up minikegs (PHIL=MEYERS)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 01:41:58 -0400
From: Glen Hathaway <glenh@icebox.iceonline.com>
Subject: Boiler RIMS system
Hi all...
Subject 1:
I'm a lowly extract brewer who wants to go all-grain. I'm in the
plumbing/hot-water heating/gasfitting business - I've got a nice
high-efficiency boiler that I got at an auction sitting in the shop.
Boiler is 75000 BTU and rated 95% efficient. I paid only $300 Canadian
for it :-). The manufacturer went under, so parts aren't available - this
means I don't want to install it in a customer's house. I've been kicking
around ideas for a RIMS system using this boiler with a heat exchanger as
a heat source.
Anybody here on the HBD have any experience with such a system or ideas
for cool ways to connect it all up? I have access to large quantities of
plumbing scrap and can buy plumbing parts at wholesale prices.
Subject 2:
I also have probably a dozen or so natural-gas hot-water tank burners
kicking around - both 36000 and 50000 BTU. How well do these work as
wort boiling heat sources? Are they big enough to do 5 gallon full boils
in a reasonable amount of time? Has anyone out there tried up-rating one
of these things to a higher BTU rating by drilling the orifice? If so,
did you experiment to see how far you could push it? What I'm getting at
is that, while it should be do-able, you would eventually get to a point
where the venturi couldn't supply enough primary air for the larger amount
of gas, and you'd start getting incomplete combustion and sooting.
If I don't hear from anyone about this, I will experiment to find the
BTU limit of these burners and will post the info for you DIY brewers.
Glen Hathaway -- glenh@iceonline.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 23:13:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia@zgi.com>
Subject: Dropping revisited
Bob Talkiewicz says in HBD 1764:
>I thought that the 'dropping' thread from a few months ago made it clear
>that it referred to racking early with minimal aeration. At least that
>was the way I understood it.
I don't think any such consensus was ever reached. Opinions varied, but I
just reviewed the dropping thread and my interpretation is that dropping
involves aeration. In terms of yeast rousing it seems to me that
"dropping" without aeration is called "stirring" and could be more
easily accomplished with a spoon or by simply rocking the fermenter.
In terms of the other effects of dropping, e.g., getting the beer off the
trub, dropping without aerating is called "racking".
What distinguishes "dropping" from "stirring" and "racking" is aeration.
>(Did this evolve out of the recent question by someone who wanted to
>dump into secondary using a funnel?)
I think so.
>What I was really after was the second result of dropping, which is to
>increase the level of diacetyl.
Increased diacetyl production is only going to result from dropping if
it is done with aeration, just shaking the yeast into suspension won't
do it.
>BTW, rousing yeast doesn't imply aeration. The yeast just needs to get back
>in suspension to finish its job.
Absolutely true, but sometimes resuspension is not enough. I have a highly
flocculent yeast that I am struggling with that does not respond to
traditional rousing (resuspension). I suspect that it was developed as
an open fermenter strain. I've used it on two batches with identical
results, it stops about 2/3 through the fermentation. This was with
similar OGs but different base malts. I'm going to give it one more try
later this summer and try dropping. Hopefully the additional oxygen at
about the 1/3-1/2 point will give it the jolt it seems to need. I
restarted the stuck fermentations in the previous 2 batches by pitching
Wyeast 1338 (European Ale).
The question may occur to some, "Why bother? Why not just switch yeasts?"
Other than it is a matter of pride not to be outdone by a non-sentient
organism (if was the Bow-Tie yeast I might concede), this yeast has a
honey-floral character that is wonderful. The batch from hell (6 week,
4 stage stuck fermentation--it sat in the center of the kitchen for over a
month yielding innumerable late night stubbed toes) produced one of my
best ESBs ever.
Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia@zgi.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 23:14:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia@zgi.com>
Subject: Acid washing yeast
While washing a batch of yeast today I had a thought. I'm not sure that
it is original or if I am remembering something previously posted in the
HBD. Yeast is acid washed in a pH 2.5 solution. Many acids could be used,
like, phosphoric, hydrochloric, sulphuric, or nitric, just about any
non-toxic acid. Generally these are mineral acids, but then I thought of
acetic acid, i.e., vinegar. So I went to the cupboard and grabbed the
ubiquitous bottle of white vinegar (Heinz) and stuck a pH test strip in it
and guess what? pH damn close to 2.5.
Can someone with a pH meter dunk your probe in white vinegar and either
post or email me the results? Please include the brandname in the
message. My guess is that a particular brand of vinegar is going to be
pretty consistent for pH over different manufactured batches. As long
as the pH is 2.5 or less it an be used as is or diluted, so we might be
able to come up with a standard recipe for an acid wash solution that
you could mix in your kitchen without pH test strips or a pH meter.
Also if someone knows why you shouldn't use vinegar to wash yeast please
let me know that too.
Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia@zgi.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 02:27:55 -0400
From: Wyss1364@aol.com
Subject: sparge times
In the last few digests Jim Busch has stated some very firm opinons re:
sparging and lautering. I have a lot of respect for Jim's experience and
knowledge but in this case he contradicts what I've seen with my own eyes.
Somewhere (BT,HBD, his Vienna-Marzen book) George Fix wrote that shorter
sparges make for rounder more malty and bigger beers.
After reading this I redesigned my converted 1/2 barrel mash-lauter tun and
now I routinely get a 25 to 30 min. sparge with 20 - 25 # of grain. I always
get 34+ points to the pound and my beer has greatly improved. This method
seems to add a complexity to the malt flavor of the finished beer that it
lacked before. I don't think any off flavors have been introduced and one of
the first beers I made with this set up won a ribbon( a lovely bock-thank you
D. Richman). All I can say is it works for me. YMMV
Also, re: Kirk's bowtie effect-
Since getting my hand on a couple more Sankey kegs the issue of open
fermentation keeps growing and somewhat nagging me from what seemed to be my
subconscious mind. Could Kirk's fermenter be doing this to me? Captain
please shield that thing with lead( or mercury) to protect your fellow
brewers.
Thanks,
Matt Wyss
Albany Ca
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 13:50:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: romand@dialogic.com (Dan Roman)
Subject: Re: Hop Plant Fertilizer
Cow manure and Miracle Grow have too quick a release for hop plants, cow
manure might even burn the roots. A slow long-term release fertilizer like
bone meal is a better choice and bone meal gives a near perfect nutrient
mix for those rhizomes. Just wish I could keep my dog from digging
under the fence to get at the bone meal every time I put some down! My
dog is a nut though, he actually likes and will roll in dog repellant.
- --
Dan Roman | Internet: romand@dialogic.com +
Compliance Engineer | Personal: danno@intac.com R/C ==O==
Dialogic Corp, NJ | Homebrew is better brew! Amiga after C=? ./ \.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 12:20:01 EST
From: "Keith Royster" <Royster@mro.ehnr.state.nc.us>
Subject: food grade VS brew grade extracts
I recently posted a question concerning a stuck fermentation from a
DME recipie in which I "fixed" it with amylase enzyme (Thanks to all
who responded to my questions). I went back to the brew store
yesterday (Sat) to buy another recipie and asked them if my stuck
fermentation might be a result of an under modified/converted batch
of DME. (BTW, they sell only Munton & Fison in DME, and have stopped
selling the dreaded Laaglander. Too many complaints.) He responded
that these companies often produce two grades of DME, food grade (for
cooking) and brew grade. The food grade has a much higher degree of
unfermentables and occassionaly, when switching from one type to the
other, some of the food grade DME *may* get mixed in with the brew
grade. Just thought this might be of general interest for the
food/brew grade thread. One more reason to go all-grain.......
While I'm here, I would like to ask all the RIMS users out there
what type of pump they are using and how they like it. I have a
bunch of pump catalogs, but there are no prices and too many to
choose from. If you could provide prices, make/model, and pumping
rate, it would greatly shorten my research time and efforts. Also,
do I need one FDA approved, or just made out of food grade
materials. Thanks much!
+------------------------------+------------------+
| Keith Royster, E.I.T. | Beer that is not |
| Environmental Engineer | drunk has missed |
| NC-DEHNR / Air Quality | its vocation. |
| (704) 663-1699 | |
| Royster@mro.ehnr.state.nc.us | - Meyer Breslau |
+------------------------------+------------------+
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 11:45:44 EST
From: awalsh@pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Andy Walsh)
Subject: dropping and enzymes
On dropping beer:
Dropping beer will only increase diacetyl levels if you
aerate during the procedure. The Wyeast ESB is famous
for producing diacetyl anyway, so Bob's high diacetyl levels
are more likely due to the yeast choice rather than the dropping
technique (Bob - you imply you had minimal aeration in your
dropping). I have used ESB many times, and have also tried
dropping (with and without aeration) a few times, so am not just
spouting bull**** off the top of my head.
It's primary function (as I see it) is similar to that of skimming krausen.
The idea is to pull the beer from underneath the foam, before the
head (and associated gunk) sinks back into the beer. Thus break
material etc. stays behind.
I fail to see how this would aid fermentation (except if you aerate or
deliberately stir up the yeast cake) as you leave half the yeast behind
too. I am not about to try this technique with a high gravity beer for example.
***************
On enzymes and stuck ferments.
I have added beta-amylase on 3 separate occassions recently.
Case A:
Orval clone. Wyeast white 3944 yeast.
OG=1.062. FG=1.020. I could not reactivate the Orval dregs
from the samples available to me here (which I believe would help the
attenuation). Orval is quite dry, and my beer had a lot of body and
residual sweetness. So I added enzymes to try and reduce the gravity.
Result: FG =1.000!
The beer tastes like rocket fuel. My beer is ruined. It is destined for
the drain.
Case B:
Strong English bitter. ESB yeast.
This beer was dropped with aeration. It started at 1.058 and stopped
at 1.022. It was too sweet. I added enzymes.
Result: FG=1.009
The beer is OK (massive diacetyl) but is very sweet. I find it drinkable
only if I mix it with another (drier) beer. I recently posted that every sweet
beer I have ever tried had a high FG. This beer has proven me wrong.
Case C:
Tripel. 3944 yeast.
OG=1.090. FG=1.044
This was a stuck ferment. The enzymes reactivated fermentation. It
currently sits in a carboy. After my other experiments I am not in a hurry
to keg the mother.
Discussion:
High FGs are a result of unfermented sugars (obviously). Yeast can only
ferment monosaccharides. Higher sugars are transported inside the cell
where they are broken down to monosaccharides and converted to alcohol
(and CO2 etc).
Stuck ferments like my tripel happen because the yeast somehow loses its
ability to transport maltose inside the cell. This is a brewing fault.
High FGs like the others are because the yeast cannot ferment some of the
other more complex sugars. These are desirable to some degree in beer
anyway.
Enzymes basically convert all extracellular sugars (dextrins and all) to
monosaccharides. Thus the yeast can freely ferment all the available
glucose. When you use an alcohol tolerant yeast such as 3944, it ferments
all of it and gives you rocket fuel. When you use an intolerant yeast such
as ESB, you get a sweet beer, because the yeast cannot ferment all the
glucose, due to high alcohol levels. Either way your beer is ruined.
I shudder to think what has happened with my tripel!
Conclusion?
You have to be desperate to use enzymes in a fermentation, unless you are
deliberately trying to make a dry style (with lowish OG). They may reduce
the gravity but at what cost to flavour?
I for one shall never touch them again.
*****************************
//// Andy Walsh from Sydney
//// awalsh@ibm.net
//// phone 61 2 369 5711
*****************************
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 95 22:07:42 -0400
From: Nicholas Christopher <ir001265@interramp.com>
Subject: Salvaging gushers?
I've got a really nice IPA that I made up but about every
third one is a gusher (must not have mixed the bottling
sugar/malt in evenly ?). Is there an easy way to salvage
these - pour them into a pitcher and let it settle or some
such?
\n
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 95 22:10:37 PDT
From: Greg Buckwalter <gregbuck@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Converting a keg to a boiler
>>What is the technique for removing the tap/valve assembly before I
get a hole cut in the top?
First, let all the pressure out. You may want to put a rag over the
tap ball. before pushing, sometimes when there's beer in there you'll
get a bath. Next:
If you look at where the tap goes in you'll notice that there is a ring
(like a piston ring) that keeps the tap hardware in place. I use a
pudy knive to get in there start freeign the ring from under the lip.
Once you have it started (coming out from the lip) I use a needle nose
to pull on it - at that point it is easy just pull on it and it will
all come out (the whole ring) then all you do is twist the tap, you'll
see the two groves, and pull the tap out. Done Deal.
>>3. What interesting things should I get welded onto my keg? I
currently plan to put
a. A spigot
b. A thermometer
c. maybe some handles?
d. maybe a mesh screen to act as a false bottom?
a. Yes, You'll need a nipple and a spigot (brass works well & brass
spigots are easy to get at your local hardware store). If you cannot
find a brass nipple you can use stainless steel, have your welder braze it.
b. If you find a mail order setup let me know. I'm still looking.
c. Doesn't your keg already have handles on it?
d. Only needed for the mash keg.
e. When you cut a hole in the top - Here's one to think about. I
measured the lid of my boiling kettle and cut the hole just inside that
one so I had a means of putting a lid on it. Big helper for keeping
the temp inside and not steaming off.
>>Any suggestions on how/where to put these items on the keg are also
welcome by me.
Put the Spigot right down on the lower part of the side if not using a
screen. Otherwise you might want to put it on the bottom, but if you
do that you might not want to hav the nipple brazed. If your using a
jet burner it gets hot down there.
>>4. What is the theory behind the liquid-level sight thingy? I guess
I've never seen one in action, and don't know the details of how they
work. Is this a cool thing to have on a converted keg?
Don't know I climb up on the stand that the keg is on a look down
inside. What a beautiful sight it is.....
Have fun,
Brew On,
Bucky
From: Daniel Cook
To: homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Subject: Converting a keg to a boiler
Date: Friday, June 16, 1995 11:21AM
Acme thread-killer #1: I got my keg legally, not in some alley from a
guy who said, "Psst! Hey fella, wanna buy a beat-up empty beer keg?"
Acme thread-killer #2: I *know* that this has been discussed before. I
*have* looked through the past articles and various archives. Short of
downloading the past 1500 issues of the HBD, I could not find what I'm
looking for. Any pointers to good FAQs is OK by me.
- ---------------------
Greetings!
I have a 15-gallon (Molson, I think) keg that I'd like to make into a
large mash/lauter/boil tun. Questions:
1. I'll probably go a local welder and try to barter with him: free
beer for the opportunity to blast apart a keg. What is the technique
for removing the tap/valve assembly before I get a hole cut in the top?
2. Seattle readers: any suggestions for a beer-drinking welder? Not at
the same time, of course.
3. What interesting things should I get welded onto my keg? I currently
plan to put
a. A spigot
b. A thermometer
c. maybe some handles?
d. maybe a mesh screen to act as a false bottom?
Any suggestions on where to get these handy items? Mail-order is fine
w/me, and probably preferred.
Any suggestions on how/where to put these items on the keg are also
welcome by me.
4. What is the theory behind the liquid-level sight thingy? I guess
I've never seen one in action, and don't know the details of how they
work. Is this a cool thing to have on a converted keg?
All replies are gratefully accepted. Your responses will only help to
increase my brew-ability, and increase the average skill set of the
world's homebrewers. Basically, I'm doing this for *all* of us!
Dan Cook
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 21:08:58 -0800
From: chrispix@uclink2.berkeley.edu (Christopher Pickslay)
Subject: RE: Harvesting fermenter yeast
What advantages are there to harvesting and re-using the yeast from a prior
batch, besides saving a few bucks? Does it noticeably improve the beer over
using fresh liquid yeast? My impression from the last few posts on the
process is that it seems like an awful lot of work.
TIA,
?:^{>
Christopher Pickslay
chrispix@uclink2.berkeley.edu
UC Berkeley
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 95 21:28:59 -0700
From: Mark King <mking@sparc1.castles.com>
Subject: Please add
Please add me to the list
- --
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www.castles.com BBS +1 707-429-9789
Voice information 1-800-WEB-ME-NOW FAX +1 707-422-5265
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 95 21:51 PDT
From: Otto Radtke <IZZY126@MVS.OAC.UCLA.EDU>
Subject: Rooty-Tooty-Fresh-N-Fruity Lambic
I just bought a pair of Lambics from some outfit that calls itself the
Brewery De Troch Wambeek. They put together some tropical lambics with
strawberry and banana flavors. The strawberry was just okay; for some
reason it just ended up tasting sour. It had potential...The banana on the
other hand was very good. It's no Lindeman's peche of course, but then
what is? This ale had just the right amount of flavor so that it didn't
overpower the beer. The banana flavor went surprisingly well with the
tartness of the lambic. I highly recommend you try it if that particular
action is within your means.
But on to the homebrew question which actually has something to do with
the previous paragraph. Have any of you used fruit extracts in your lambics?
Or is it better to use fresh stuff? When is the best time to add the
fruit (or its flavor)? I've never brewed a lambic but I'm getting real
motivated to do so, and I'd appreciate the feedback from you fine fellows!
Otto Radtke
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 1995 07:31:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: "mike spinelli" <paa3983@dpsc.dla.mil>
Subject: carboy cooler
Being that summers here, I was concerned about the temp. inside my house
which gets into the low 80s. Not having a cool basement, I searched for and
found a nice plastic Deep Totelocker (Rubbermaid Model #2456) in which (2) 6 1/2
gallon carboys fit nicely. I can then fill the totelocker with water up to
about the 4 gallon mark w/o the carboys floating away. The lid can be shut
about half way with it resting atop the airlocks. Size is 32" X 17" X 17
7/8". Cost about $25 bucks. Standard disclaimer.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 07:57:00 EDT
From: "Houseman, David L [TR]" <DLH1@trpo3.Tr.Unisys.com>
Subject: BUZZ_OFF Results
The BUZZ_OFF is pleased to announce the results of our second competition
held today at the Valley Forge Brewpub. There were over 200 entries, with
many of them great beers. While the local area was well represented, we had
entries from as far away as California. Individual score sheets and any
un-picked-up ribbons and prizes will be mailed as soon as we can get to it;
give me a few days - I don't want to look at a beer or an entry form or
think about this for a few days!!!
Category Place Brewer
Style
Strong Ales 1st Pickwick, B &
Cintron, J. Barley Wine
2nd Hardy, Fred
Barley Wine
3rd Delapp,
Barry Barley Wine
Belgian Ales 1st Hutchins, Owen
Lambic/Framboise
2nd Hutchins,
Owen Wit
3rd Hanning,
Chuck Wit
Brown & Scottish Export 1st Mezo, Joe
Scottish Export
2nd Ritter, John &
Sue English Mild
3rd Behler,
Jey English Brown
English Pale Ales 1st Hudock, Lisa
IPA
2nd Wolf,
Ed-Liguori, C. IPA
3rd Grigg, Andy
English Pale Ale
American Pale Ale 1st Green, Charles
American Pale Ale
2nd Gisiger,
Wayne American Pale Ale
3rd Mezo, Joe
American Pale Ale
English Bitter 1st Hardy, Fred
English Ordinary
2nd Szymchak,
Bill English Extra Special
3rd Rasefske,
Jason English Special
Stout & Porter 1st Lubking, Goug & Colleen
Robust Porter
2nd Colgan, Brian
Dry Stout
3rd Ritter, John & Sue
Brown Porter
Bock & Dark Lager 1st Terfinko, Terry
Doppelbock
2nd Pickwick, Bob
Helles Bock
3rd Johnston, Ted Munich Dunkel
Pale Lager 1st Delapp, Barry Bohemian
Pilsner
2nd Garfalo, Peter
American Premium
3rd Fix, George
Dortmunder/Export
German/Mixed Ales 1st Salotti, Lewis California
Common Beer
2nd Wolf, Ed-Liguori, C.
California Common Beer
3rd Hopkins, Jay Kolsch
Fruit & Smoked 1st Folsom, Alan
Classic Smoked Porter
2nd Rosowski, Rich Rauchbier
3rd Lefebvre, Paul Strawberry Wheat
Specialty 1st Rosowski, Rich
Pomegranite/Cinn/Lemon
2nd Gisiger, Wayne Honey
Beer
3rd Worton, Andrew Raspberry
Coriander
German Wheat 1st Pickwick, Bob
Weizen
2nd Hanning, Chuck
Weizen
3rd Reyno, John Weizen
Meads & Ciders 1st Delapp, Barry Raspberry
Mead
2nd Iaciofano, Ed
Traditional Still Mead
3rd Hutchins, Owen Traditional Still
Mead
Labels 1st Putsta, Joe
2nd Born, Allen
3rd Colgan, Brian
Best of Show: Owen Hutchins, Lambic/Framboise
Runner Up BOS: Terry Terfinko, Doppelbock
Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year (Total points accomulated in Hops
Bops, Dock Street,
Moon Madness and BUZZ_OFF competitions (5 points/1st, 3 points/2nd, 1
point/3rd): Owen Hutchins
David Houseman
Competition Organizer
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 1995 08:06:01 -0500 (EST)
From: david lawrence shea <dshea@indiana.edu>
Subject: Solution: *Never* have puffed or bulging 5l kegs again
Okay, so the subject header may be a bit grandiose, but after Chris
Strickland wrote about puffed out kegs during the warmer weather I
thought I would offer my solution.
All that is needed is to stick a kitchen (dull) knife between the the top
of the mini keg and the outer lip of the bung. Push into the center very
hard and excess CO2 will bleed out. It will sound like a compressed air
unit at a gas station. When you hear the CO2 flow starting to slow down
significantly, remove the knife. I do this once a week or so until I
encounter a time where there doesn't seem to be much excess pressure ( you
will know it when it happens). After this, I check the pressure every
three or four weeks, if the keg lasts that long.
Initially, one might ask about having the natural CO2 pressure help in the
tapping of the keg, and if you remove this pressure, you will have to use
more CO2 from the tap. Generally, I find that there will still be some
natural pressure and more importantly, you will tend to have less foam
problems from the onset. If you have excess pressure, you may use less
CO2 from the cartridges, but it may take a couple of days and many wasted
glasses of foam before you drink your beer. I can usually have a
drinkable pint on my first tapping of the keg.
I hope this helps.
David L. Shea
dshea@nickel.indiana.edu
Indiana University
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 09:47:50 est
From: Joseph.Fleming@gsa.gov
Subject: Flakey questions
Hey all,
Flakes
I'd like to thank Jacob Galley and Russ (Mast?) for his Brown Rye Ale
recipe and ask a question. His recipe calls for 1.5# of rye flakes;
others I've seen calls for 4# rye malt. My preferred store doesn't carry
rye malt but has the flakes assortment (maize, barley, wheat, oats, ect.);
what's the difference between malt & flakes? How are flakes made? Why
would flaked barley, wheat or rye be preferable to malted (as I've seen in
recipes)? What is the malt:flake usage conversion ratio? I've seen
flaked wheat in wit recipes; do flaked adjuncts add to cloudiness more
than malt? Thread-searching garnered usage info: just add flakes to the
mash? Seems that flakes would make the mash thick or gummy; am I correct
in assuming that in 10-20% quantities this would not pose a problem?
A.J.'s Water Works
A.J. has done an extensive amount of work to provide several methods on
achieving the chemical makeup of brewing waters with distilled water. I
hate to ask a dumb question (but am going to), but would it be possible to
plug in the brewer's own water figures and achieve the four-salt
quantities necessary to approximate the water? Or are there too many
factors to keep track of in non-distilled water?
Second; the salts and acids added would mimic any mineral taste and
content of the water as well?
Joe - joseph.fleming@gsa.gov
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 09:47:38 EST
From: "Tom Williams" <twilliams@CCGATE.UECI.COM>
Subject: Secondary vessel
In #1761 Larry Carden writes:
> Plastic buckets are not recommended for secondary fermentation.
> ...
> You don't need to buy another carboy, if you don't mind siphoning
> to the bucket temporarily, cleaning the primary, and reusing it as
> the secondary.
Questions:
1. Why are plastic buckets unsuitable for secondary?
2. Is the answer to question #1 serious enough to warrant siphoning
(and aerating) the beer twice just to reuse the glass carboy?
I normally use my glass carboy for primary, siphon to the plastic
bucket for secondary. At bottling time, I put the priming sugar
solution in the glass carboy and siphon back to it for bottling. I
haven't noticed any problems with this, but I am always on the lookout
for improvements.
Tom Williams
Norcross, Georgia
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 10:05:58 EDT
From: Steven W. Schultz <swschult@cbda9.apgea.army.mil>
Subject: ESB Recipe
Recently, I asked the HBD readership for a recipe that comes close to Fuller's
ESB. I received one recipe from Christopher R. Vyhnal, and with his permission
I now provide it to the HBD. Again, my thanks to Chris.
Steve Schultz
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Christopher.R.Vyhnal@Dartmouth.EDU (Christopher R. Vyhnal)
Reply-To: OKIE@Dartmouth.EDU
Subject: Fuller's ESB clone
To: swschult@cbda9.apgea.army.mil
Here's the Fuller's recipe I've been working on for awhile--I haven't yet
bottled this particular batch, but it tasted great at racking.
3.3# Munton & Fison extra light extract syrup
4.5# 2-row malt
0.5# crystal (40 deg. L)
1.0# flaked maize
0.25# dark Belgian candi sugar (275 deg. L)
1 step infusion, mini-mash @ 154 deg. F for 70 minutes, or until
conversion. Mashout @ 170 deg. F for 20 minutes. Sparge w/3 gallons water @
150 deg. F to collect 4.25 gallons.
1 oz Bullion pellets (8.5 AAU) 60 mins
1 oz Bullion pellets (8.5 AAU) 20 mins
1 oz Goldings flowers (4.5 AAU) 20 mins
0.75 oz Goldings flowers (4.5 AAU) 10 mins
0.25 oz goldings flowers dry-hopped in secondary
You want an O.G. of around 1.052 - 1.054 (this recipe gave me 1.053).
Bittering hops in Fuller's, from what I've read, are not Bullion but
Challenger, Target, and/or Northdown (which can be tough to find). Any
high AAU, British hop should get you pretty close as long as you finish
with Goldings.
The flaked maize is a must and needs to be 8-10% of your total grain
bill. I used the dark Belgian candi sugar to try and get a little closer
to the right amber/orange color (my first try came out too light).
If you don't want to mash any grains, I'd suggest using another can of
M&F, and a pound of corn sugar instead of the grains. You could darken the
beer a little by carmelizing some of the extract (leave your kettle on the
burner when you add the extract).
The yeast you want to use is Wyeast's 1968 (London ale).
Good Luck,
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 1995 18:05:15 +0300
From: diagen@netvision.net.il (Nir Navot)
Subject: HomeBrewing in Israel
Living in Israel? If you are a homebrewer - or intend to be one send me a
line. There are around ten of us here, on last count. Just looking for
someone to share a bottle of my latest batch with,
Nir
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 1995 10:30:17 -0500 (EST)
From: "Jim Herter" <James.M.Herter.1@nd.edu>
Subject: Homebrew Club Outline\Using Hop Teas\Dropping?
I am interested in initiating a local homebrew club - Does anyone have an
outline or notes on how to get started? (i.e., charter, mission statement,
meeting format, etc.)
I recently brewed my first mash\extract beer. It's an old English style ale
with an o.g of 1.072. I underestimated the hop schedule by about 10 (30.9
vs. 40 IBU's which most references suggest). I planned on boiling a .5 ounce
Fuggles plug for 50-60 minutes and adding this at bottling. Even though the
beer has another week to go in the secondary, I went ahead and boiled the
plug for 50 minutes in five cups of water. This yielded 2 cups of an
interesting green, milky elixir. I strained the mixture through a section of
panty hose (new, not used) and placed it in the fridge for use this
Saturday. Will this add the desired bittering units? The AA% was 4.1 and the
target was ~10 IBU. Will this cloud the beer too much, or will it settle
out after two weeks in the bottle? Should I just bag the whole idea and
settle for a slightly sweet ale?
Does anyone have a comprehensive article on dropping that I can give to the
Brewmaster at the local brew pub? Personal email is fine.
One last thing. I've fought doing this for some time.
***definitely*** no "a"!
Jim Herter
Business Manager
Notre Dame Food Services
(219)631-0113
james.m.herter.1@nd.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 10:02:00 MST
From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR@afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil>
Subject: Suboptimal Hop Combinations/Flux and Fermenter Flow
1) Are there certain combinations of hops which, when used in a single
brew, create flavors which are generally accepted as unattractive?
This question applies to both kettle hop combinations and, more
likely, to finish hop combinations. If there are combos many folks
find disagreeable, have such combos been compiled anywhere?
I'm thinking only of combinations of hops one would find used
in 'like' beers (Fuggles, Northdown, Progress, Target, Bramling
Cross), not combinations of two or more hops that would not normally
or intentially be combined anyway (Saaz-Bullion might be an example).
2) In #1765 David Boe asked if the Bowtie Effect was magnetically
influenced. The first batch done in twin fermenters had patterns
aligned in parallel along a line about 10 deg clockwise from the local
meridian, bit a subsequent 2-fermenter batch had non-parallel axes of
symmetry.
KRF Colorado Springs
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 13:21:08 EDT
From: jpavao@c38fs0.npt.nuwc.navy.mil (John D. Pavao)
Subject: Smokey the Beer
Hi,
I'm thinking about trying the recipe in TNCJOHB for rauchbier using
liquid smoke as one of the ingredients. Before making the attempt,
I would be interested to hear the opinions of those who have
already tried it. My major concern is knowing if the amount of
liquid smoke called for in the recipe is okay.
Tia for any comments.
John D. Pavao <jpavao@c38.npt.nuwc.navy.mil>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 11:38:00 MST
From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR@afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil>
Subject: Filling a Sankey
Up 'till now we've disassembled our Sankey's to sanitize and fill with the
frothy golden nectar. We would now like to sanitize, leave about 1 gal
of iodophor in the keg, re-assemble, shake, pump out the iodophor,
and finally fill the keg with Product.
If anyone has been able to succesfully re-plumb a coupler to allow the
filling of an assembled Sankey keg, or if anyone knows how it is done,
or if anyone knows why it can't be done, I'd be most appreciative.
Also, I am unable to figure out how a Sankey coupler is built--it never
fails to amaze me when, just as I think I have it's design deduced, I am
amazed (and probably soaked with beer) at my ignorance. If anyone
has a sectional diagram I'd sure like to get a copy.
KRF Colorado Springs
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 12:15:57 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Sparge Arms for 15 gal. sys.
>>>>> "Eric" == Eric Marzewski <ca385a19@nova.umuc.edu> writes:
Eric> Looking for a sparge arm for a 15 gal. system, any besides Phils (any
Eric> comments on Phils)? Thanx for the help.
I just made one out of 1/4" rigid copper tubing. The key is what to
use as a swivel. I used a SS fitting which is a 1/4" female flare by
3/8" hose barb. Ground down the hose barb part and soldered it into
the "T" which is at the center of the rotating arm. The water inlet
"down tube" is made from 1/2" rigid copper and on the end of that is a
1/2" sweat female to 1/8" NPT female fitting, and then screwed into
the 1/8" FNPT is an 1/8" MNPT to 1/4" male flare. The end of the
1/4" male flare has been ground off so that when screwed into the SS
female flare, the nut will botton out before the flare engages,
thereby leaving the barb to act as a swivel.
dion
- --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 13:23:04 MDT
From: "James Giacalone" <JGiacalone@vines.ColoState.EDU>
Subject: Brew pubs
Does anyone out there know of any brewpubs
in New Orleans or Houston?
Private E- mail is fine.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 1995 12:36:05 -0800
From: troy@opthalmos.jsei.ucla.edu (Troy Howard)
Subject: Grain Bag in Lauter Tun?
Hi all,
I currently use a "Zapap" lauter tun (one bucket with lots of small holes
drilled in the bottom placed inside another bucket). I am concerned with
the volume contained beneath the false bottom. It is close to a gallon!
Consequently, I am considering modifying my lauter tun to elimate this free
space. The easiest mod would be to replace the inner bucket with a grain
bag. I have heard reports of problems with channeling using this method.
Does anyone have any direct experience ?
The next easiest solution would probably be to build an "EasyMasher" type
thing (a rolled up piece of SS screen crimped at one end and attached to a
short piece of copper tubbing at the other).
Any one have any comments about the relative merits and disadvantages of
either system?
TIA,
-Troy
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Troy Howard | Live fast,
troy@oculus.jsei.ucla.edu | die young,
Jules Stein Eye Institue, UCLA | and leave a good looking corpse.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 09:46:29 mdt
From: "LAVANSA0" <LAVANSA0_at_WC-DENVER@ccmail.wcc.com>
Subject: Hop Utilization at High Altitude
Hello all!
Whilst brewing this weekend, (and planning to move operations up the
hill, literally) I tried to reason out how to adjust recipes (or if I
even need to) to counter the effects of altitude, ie, lower boiling
temperature and therefore(?) lower hop utilization and/or
isomerization. Does anyone out there have any words of wisdom or tips?
Thanks,
Luke
Support the Beer Lover's Party (Russian politics)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 15:59:07 CDT
From: PHIL=MEYERS%TS=DESKCASE%CS=HOU@bangate.compaq.com
Subject: Puffed-up minikegs
>From: cstrick@iu.net (Chris Strickland)
>Subject: Puffed Up Mini-Kegs, and Siphoning Questions
>Since it's summer, I've had several mini-kegs puff up. Just curious,
since
>it's a pain to attach the tap, can I bang em back with a hammer? Or will
>this make them too weak and cause them to explode. Any other ideas?
I had a couple of my Friess-compatible mini-kegs do this to me. I just
GENTLY pushed down the center plug until I could hear a faint hiss until
the thing looked like it wasn't going to explode on me.
However, I would be interested to hear the results of the hammering.... ;-0
Regards,
Phil
P.S. - Forgive the garbage at the end of this post. Our mail system does
it, not me...
The following was included as an attachement. Please use UUDECODE
to retrieve it. The original file name was 'ATTRIBS.BND'.
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end
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1766, 06/27/95
*************************************
-------
