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HOMEBREW Digest #1723
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/05/05 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1723 Fri 05 May 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Req: Netherlands Style Brown Beer Recipe ("Clay D. Hopperdietzel")
stainless airstone (Charles Wettergreen)
Re: Stainless Air Stones?? (djt2)
Stainless stel airstone (John W. Carpenter)
Microwaves are a no-no/advertising (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
RE: SS airstones (Jim Dipalma)
Beer with dinner (VLIEG BRIAN S)
Sankey Keg Fermenters ("Frazier.Jim")
RE: Hop plant identificaiton (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
Re: SS airstones (Mark E. Thompson)
Growing Hops and calculating %Alpha Acids ("Michael J. LeLaurin, IR/BRC, 245-7880")
Growing Hops / Skunks / Weinhard's Red (Norman Pyle)
RE: Aluminum stockpots (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
RE: Cooking with Honey (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
Dark Grains ("Thomas W. Ausfeld")
how long can I leave my starter? (Larry Barras)
Suds 4.0 (Greg Holton)
trub and off-flavors in beer (charles epp)
RE HBD 1716, 1721 ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
Calculate feeling my skunky mouth? (Russell Mast)
Plato -> SG (Jeorg Houck)
Freezer Temperature Control - Help (Andrew McGowan )
Exploding Kegs (PHIL RUSSO)
Free Bottles and Superb (Glenn Raudins)
Beer Balls + new recipe (PHIL RUSSO)
Stainless Steel Airstones ("Jonathan Kalmes")
Re: Stainless Steel Airstones (Rotorex)
Gout (Larry Meyer)
Hops (Jason K. Sloan)
mini pub brewing system (Com/Sinc19 Gagetown)
stainless airstone ("Harold R. Wood")
Mercury poisening (Lee Bollard)
Cork finishing bottles (Troy Downing)
Yeast Questions (DLANICEK)
Mash schedule questions/Grain roasting questions (Mike Dowd)
Poor Head Retention (Bonjour)
1056 Ferment temp. ("Lee A. Menegoni")
Cleveland (spencer)
Boil Time/ Dope ("Paul Stokely")
BJCP NE Database ("Kieran O'Connor")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 08:03:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Clay D. Hopperdietzel" <hoppy@appsmiths.com>
Subject: Req: Netherlands Style Brown Beer Recipe
Fellow Brewers,
Another lurker leaps forth.
A friend of mine who moved to the Netherlands is returning in July for a
visit. It seems that he has grown rather fond of something he refers
to as "Brown Beer", which is made by Heineken. This seems to be some
local adaptation of a Belgian style, but from his descriptions, he seems
to be drinking something considerably different than Belgian Bruin.
I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this style, or has
a reciepe for making something similar -- preferably all grain.
TIA,
===============================================================================
Clay D. Hopperdietzel hoppy@appsmiths.com
AppSmiths, Inc. Voice (713) 578-0154 Fax (713) 578-6182
15915 Katy Fwy, Suite 470 Where do *I* Want to Go Today?
Houston, Texas 77094 FreeBSD!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 95 08:13 CDT
From: chuckmw@mcs.com (Charles Wettergreen)
Subject: stainless airstone
To: homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Kirk Oseid (klo@fluent.com) asked:
HH> Is the stainless steel airstone a figment of someones imagination?
American Science & Surplus sells a stainless and chrome-plated copper
"diffuser" for $1.00. It looks like a sintered stainless airstone, but after
a few times blasting O2 through it, the coating on the sintered part comes off
and it looks like copper underneath.
It works well and cleans easily.
Cheers,
Chuck
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
Chuck Wettergreen One beer at a sitting is OK. Two beers, maybe.
Chuckmw@mcs.com But anything beyond that number goes over the
Geneva, Illinois line of recreational drinking. Ann Landers
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
* RM 1.3 *
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 09:59:00 -0400
From: djt2@po.cwru.edu
Subject: Re: Stainless Air Stones??
Kirk asks about SS air stones.
I swear I saw these recently in the American Science Surplus catalog [(708)
982-0870] but they're not listed in the latest catalog I have.
On the other hand, I recently purchased some airstones for the lab at a pet
store made of fused glass beads, for a buck or two each. We need to be able
to autoclave the airstone and tubing. Glass should have all the advantages
you're looking for in SS. Be careful, since the common plastic airstones
resemble the glass ones well.
Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 95 10:14:34 EDT
From: jwc@med.unc.edu (John W. Carpenter)
Subject: Stainless stel airstone
In HBD 1721 Kirk wanted to know a source for stainless steel airstones. A
company called RAININ has them. They are called inlet filters for an
HPLC. They are 7/8 inch in diameter X 1 1/2 inch long 10 micron 316
stainless steel, and have a 1/16 inch OD stem for slip-fit connection to
a standard 1/8 inch OD tube. Cat. # A-311, $42.00. This is made to filter
solvents before HPLC, but should work as an aerator too. No connection,
blah, blah, blah. Rainin's # is 800-472-4646. --
John Carpenter
Chapel Hill, NC
jwc@med.unc.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 95 10:27:04 EST
From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna@relay.com
Subject: Microwaves are a no-no/advertising
RE the recent thread about using microwave ovens for sanitizing, I went to
my personal Oracle (my wife the microbiologist). Microwaves apparently
have little effect on many of the critters one would be attempting to kill.
That is the short version and was enough for me to not use them. Perhaps
some brewing microbiologists will chime in?
My own take on this is: yes microwaves will boil water and if the critters
are in the water they should die painfully, but I would not bet MY beer on
it. From my own experience, I seem to recall that microwaves agitate
water/liquids, and this is what actually does the cooking (or sanitizing).
I do not think they will kill molds, spores, fungus, or other critters
that might not have a high water content, or if they can it would take a
LONG time.
Brewing microbiologists note: The above is my take on what "my oracle"
said. If I misinterpreted, please correct me - but please no flames!
RE the recent thread about what has been termed advertising on the HBD: I agree
that blatant advertising (and blanket mail list postings) should be avoided.
However, I do not have a problem with someone including their company name and a
brief description of their service in an email footer. I need brewing supplies,
and I might like to purchase from an HBD contributor over another provider. I
also note the recent posting of 800 numbers for suppliers. That could be termed
advertising, but I certainly was not offended by it.
Tim Fields
Timf@relay.com
Relay Technology, Inc., SQL/DS Division
Vienna, VA, USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 95 10:31:14 EDT
From: dipalma@sky.com (Jim Dipalma)
Subject: RE: SS airstones
Hi All,
In HBD#1721, Kirk L. Oseid asks:
>Is the stainless steel airstone a figment of someones imagination?
No, I own three of them, they are quite real.
>Can anyone quote me a source of such a device?
I got mine from Brewer's Resource, (800)827-3983.
Usual disclaimer, no commercial affiliation. I just got them last week and
haven't used them yet, so I can't even claim to be a satisifed customer.
**************************************************
My contribution to the "Is my beer ruined" FAQ:
A few days ago, I posted regarding a 3068 fermentation gone ballistic. Last
night, after ten days of fermentation, the krausen had fallen so I racked the
beer to secondary and tasted a sample. A little too estery for my tastes,
and still a bit sweet, but *not infected*.
So, the next time there's krausen spewing through your airlock, there's no
need to worry and send an "is my beer ruined" post. Switch to some sort of
blowoff system and let it erupt. IMHO, as long as stuff is being expelled
from the fermenter, the beer is not likely to pick up an infection. I used a
couple of unsanitized plastic bags to collect the blowoff, and didn't have a
problem. When the krausen begins to subside, replace the blowoff system with
an airlock. Rack the beer when the krausen falls, and taste a sample, it'll
probably be OK.
Cheers,
Jim dipalma@sky.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 95 10:39:05 EDT
From: VLIEG BRIAN S <vliegbri@hvcc.edu>
Subject: Beer with dinner
Greetings,
After long term lurking on the HBD, I would like to come out of hiding with an
unusual request of the collective. My friend and I have been tossing around
an idea of hosting a dinner that would focus on beer. We would like to link
specific types of beer with specific parts of a meal much like one would with
wine.
At this point we are planning to go with a German dinner (the woman who
watches my children caters for a German Hall) and would like any input on
German styles of beer that might often be used before a meal, during a meal
and after a meal. We also are interested if there are any traditional
combinations between specific dishes and beer.
Since we are planning this in the next few weeks, we will not be able to brew
the desired beers but, if it goes well, we will probably do it again.
TIA, Private Email fine.
Brian Vlieg
------------------------------
Date: 3 May 1995 09:48:09 U
From: "Frazier.Jim" <frazier@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Sankey Keg Fermenters
I've come across a source for stainless Sankey kegs and was wondering
what experiences people have had using them for fermenters. I would
like to start with 5 gal. batches and move to 10 gal. if it works out. I
figure I can find a big enough stopper to accept a blow-off tube or
airlock. The two I had in mind are Miller (tm) with the threaded valve,
one for a primary, the other for a secondary.
Are there any problems besides 1) not being able to SEE the beer, and
2) cleaning (sanitation shouldn't be a problem with iodophor). The
advantages of NEVER EVER worrying about glass grenades is tempting.
Private e-mail is OK: frazier@ssdgwy.mdc.com
TIA - Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 95 10:53:03 EST
From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna@relay.com
Subject: RE: Hop plant identificaiton
In HBD 1721, STEVE GRIMMER <S18312SG@umassd.edu asks re identifying hops:
>Anyroad, is there any way to get a clue as to the strain I've
>got growing? My current strategy is to simply brew a small batch and
>try them out as the aroma and see what happens. All suggestions
>appreciated.
I suggest your local public library. See if they have a book with pictures
or descriptions you can compare with your plants. Could you also put some
hops in a sealed jar with hot water for a time and just smell them? For
fresh spices like basil, I can get a pretty good aroma test by
rolling/crushing them in my hands. In any event, I would brew the batch -
how can you loose?
Tim Fields
Timf@relay.com
Relay Technology, Inc., SQL/DS Division
Vienna, VA, USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 95 7:53:42 PDT
From: Mark E. Thompson <markt@hptal04.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Re: SS airstones
Full-Name: Mark E. Thompson
Kirk L. Oseid writes:
> Brewers:
>
> I visited a fairly large pet store this past weekend and asked
> if they had a stainless steel airstone, which I intended to use
> as a wort aerator. They had never heard of such a device, and
> noted that most saltwater fish enthusiasts use an airstone made
> of "limewood," which has a suitable permeability.
>
> Is the stainless steel airstone a figment of someones imagination?
No.
>
> Can anyone quote me a source of such a device?
from: "http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/beer-suppliers.html"
Brewers Resource P.O. Box 507 Woodland Hills CA 91365
818-887-3282
I got one after debating the $13 price tag. It's good, you can sterelize
it by baking. Soon i'll have it attached to a copper wand so i can
back the whole aeration line.
Mark Thompson
markt@cup.hp.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 95 09:35:25 -0500
From: "Michael J. LeLaurin, IR/BRC, 245-7880" <lelaurin@shell.com>
Subject: Growing Hops and calculating %Alpha Acids
Hello,
I have just planted 5 kinds of hops. From a hop.faq I ftp'd from
somewhere, they all appear to be of the aroma variety although in
recent years they have started to gain a following in the
homebrew community for bittering as well. I have a couple of
questions...:
1.) The planting instructions indicated that if the hops were of
different variety I needed to plant the rizomes ~5 ft. apart. If they
were of the same variety, plant ~3 ft apart. Why? Cross pollenation
possibilities?
2.)I hear that the vines (bines?) can grow to ~30 ft. How much room
side-to-side do the plants need? I did not have the proper space
available to get 3 ft between plants.
3.) Is there no way for me to be able to determine by my self or by
sending a sample to someone, the AA%?
The hops are:
cascade, fuggles, tettnang, hallertauer, and willamette.
Thanx................
*= Michael J. LeLaurin
*= Interpretation Research
*= Shell EP Technology Co.
*= net: lelaurin@shell.com
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
when i die, i'd like to go peacefully.
in my sleep.
like my grandfather.
not screaming,
like the passengers in his car...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 95 9:07:31 MDT
From: Norman Pyle <npyle@hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM>
Subject: Growing Hops / Skunks / Weinhard's Red
EricHale@aol.com wrote:
>I'm sure this has discussed at great lengths. But can anyone direct me to a
>FAQ (or other appropriate information) for growing your own hops.
The Hops FAQ contains a primer on growing hops. It is in the archives.
**
Paul from Morris, IL wrote:
>If I am very careful in brewing, bottling and storage will my beer develop a
>skunky odor or taste in 5 minutes or so if I pour it in a crystal clear mug
>and take it outside to drink? I'd really not like to have to guzzle a great
>lager or even an ale in 10 minutes to avoid a skunky taste and I really don't
>want to live in my basement to enjoy a brew.
Beer will skunk in minutes at full sun, no question. It certainly is
affected by how much sun, the altitude, etc. but I've seen it happen
dramatically. In the fall, I like to bring a beer out with me when I rake
leaves. If I leaves (!) the beer in the sun, it skunks long before I finish
it, like in 5-10 minutes, and this of course can cause me to never finish it.
The simple solution is to place the beer in the shade while drinking it.
**
Glenn Matthies asks about Weinhard's Red. I drink this beer on occasion, and
enjoy it. It has malt flavor, hops, basically the things you would expect in
a beer. It isn't going to win out over your favorite homebrew, but it is not
at all like the mega-breweries' so-called beer.
Norm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 95 11:06:15 EST
From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna@relay.com
Subject: RE: Aluminum stockpots
In HBD 1721, Rob Emenecker <robe@cadmus.com asks re aluminum stockpots:
>So what is wrong with using aluminum pots
I was once told that some correlation has been established between the
level of aluminum in one's system and Altzheimer's disease. I believe that
aluminum can leach out of the pot into food (in particular with acidic
foods), and I assume this applies to brewing. I DO NOT KNOW if this
correlation is fact, but it has kept me from using aluminum for most
cooking, including brewing. I also have a concern about off-flavors that
might be imparted to the beer (note beer in cans vs bottles and the
leaching effect mentioned above) but this is also subjective on my part.
Tim Fields
Timf@relay.com
Relay Technology, Inc., SQL/DS Division
Vienna, VA, USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 95 11:11:38 EST
From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna@relay.com
Subject: RE: Cooking with Honey
In HBD 1721, Shaine_Bodnar@NOTES.YMP.GOV says relates the following story
re brewing with honey:
>From what I could get from the discussion we had,
> she said that cooking with honey is harmful. She has been an avid
> believer in Ayurveda, which is an Indian (from India, not Native
>America)
> Nutritional belief. From what she said it seems as though the chemical
> structure of the honey is broken down and what results is considered
> toxic to the human body...
> ...Now my question: Has anyone else heard of this, and if so what is
>the
> scientific evidence for such a belief, or is my colleague a few fries
> short of a Happy Meal?
I do not have a clue, but I am curious. I would only note that "belief" in
many instances requires faith...perhaps your friend can point you to some
("scientific") literature?
Tim Fields
Timf@relay.com
Relay Technology, Inc., SQL/DS Division
Vienna, VA, USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 11:50:42 EST5EDT
From: "Thomas W. Ausfeld" <TOM@sp1.dhmc.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Dark Grains
I'm looking for a concensus to the follow question?
Q - Do I add dark grains (black patent, chocolate, etc.) at dough in
or just before mash out? (and why)
Private response is fine, I'll post the results.
TIA
Tom Ausfeld (TOM@SP1.dhmc.dartmouth.edu)
Newbury, Vermont
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 10:53:39 -0500
From: larry@merakusa.com (Larry Barras)
Subject: how long can I leave my starter?
Hmmm, fully intending to brew one weekend, I bought ingredients and a
WyYeast packet (the bohemian lager). I popped the packet, and made a .5
gallon starter after it swelled. The starter never showed any tremendous
activity, but it did smell beer like.
Unfortunately, I had to postpone my brew session. I stuck the whole starter
jar in fridge.
Now a few weeks later, I am wondering if the starter is still good. Should I
just refresh it with a another quart or two of fresh starter wort? Or maybe
I should make a fresh starter?
Any thoughts?
Larry Barras
Merak Projects, Inc.
(713) 850-1633
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 12:09:05 -0500 (EDT)
From: greg@kgn.ibm.com (Greg Holton)
Subject: Suds 4.0
I recently tried Suds 4.0 and had a very unpleasant experience with it.
After entering several recipes, I tried to print one. I got an error
that it couldn't load the font (wouldn't tell me which one) and crashed.
Now the recipe database is corrupted and basically none of the functions
work. I couldn't coax it to tell me what font it's trying to use or how
to change it. I tried email-ing the author and didn't get a response.
Does this ring a bell with anyone?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 11:02:52 -0500 (EST)
From: charles epp <cepp@indiana.edu>
Subject: trub and off-flavors in beer
Question: I have a pale ale that tasted fine (even great) for the first
month and a half -- lots of hop character and hop aroma. Then it began to
transform. First, for about two weeks, it developed a diacetyl flavor
(sort of butterscotchy), which began to mask the hops. Now that flavor
seems to have transformed into an unpleasant, rough bitterness that masks
almost all of the hop character. What is the source of this? The batch
was all-grain, mashed at 156 Fahr. in an infusion mash, cooled by an
infusion coil wort-cooler, down to 70 Fahr. within about 15 minutes. One
suggestion somebody gave me was that I allowed too much of the trub into
the fermentation carboy (this is true -- I poured the wort straight in,
and just tried to reserve the trub in the boil pot, but wasn't entirely
successful). Will trub affect the flavor this much? Or would using too
hot sparge water do it? I don't think the problem is bacteria, because
there are no other signs of it (no ring in neck of bottle, no increase in
carbonation, no strings in the beer, etc.). Any suggestions? Thanks.
Chuck Epp (cepp@indiana.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 1995 11:30:05 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A@Lilly.com>
Subject: RE HBD 1716, 1721
Rob Emenecker asks about my post for info in HBD #1716 re aluminum pots.
I received two responses, one person having used an Al pot for 15 years
with no noticeable flavors (that he can remember :-)!
The other message asked to hear the results. There you go,
and sorry I didn't post any ?summary? earlier, Rob and Co.
I felt comfortable going with Al based on logic and on the
data in the Jan/Feb BT article.
I've got a new $60 Al boil pot now, and new propane cooker! All I
need is some malt, hops and yeast :-). You can bet
you'll hear from me if the pot _DOES_ affect flavor!
One _IMPORTANT_ point for those buying new Al pots:
BOIL SOME WATER IN IT A COUPLE TIMES BEFORE BREWING!!!
I did this to see how long my stove would need to heat
8 gal to boiling (3hrs), and there was a milky surface
film on the water! I cleaned again, and repeated the test:
the water looked dandy the second time around. Wouldn't
want that crap in my BEER though!!!!
THANKS!!!!
db in Indy
From: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036)
To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com")
cc: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 11:38:55 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com>
Subject: Calculate feeling my skunky mouth?
> From: Gordon.Mckeever@jpl.nasa.gov
> Subject: calculating O.G.
> I had a brain fart and dumped my yeast in at >150F ... much to my surprise,
> the airlock was bubbling merrily away, so the opportunity for getting
> an OG was gone.
Were I you, I'd be more concerned with infection than gravity. There's a
pretty good chance that your yeast WAS killed, and the stuff fermenting
your beer isn't your yeast.
Miller's book (TC-Hanbook-OHB) lists some typical rates. From mostly extract,
it should be pretty straightforward.
> From: LBRISTOL@SYSUBMC.BMC.COM
> Subject: Gravity contribution for heavily roasted grains
>
> Which brings me to a curiosity question I have pondered greatly, but never
> come to a satisfactory conclusion. Is there a relationship between the FINAL
> gravity of a brew to its thickness, mouth feel, or any of those other words
> used to describe this sort of thing?
I believe it's also in the Miller book that FG has nothing to do with
mouthfeel per se, and that it is strictly a function of protein content.
There is a coincidental relationship between level of protein and FG, but
the FG, theoretically, only contributes to sweetness. I'd think it would
have SOME influence on the slickness of the feel, but not the thickness.
I know that I can take two beers with similar FG's that have very different
mouthfeels, but they also had different OG's, and so on and so forth.
So, yeah, the relationship is probably more of a coincidence, but maybe
someone else will have something more intellegent to say.
> From: PERSAND@aol.com
> Subject: Skunky odor from sunlight
>
> If I am very careful in brewing, bottling and storage will my beer develop a
> skunky odor or taste in 5 minutes or so if I pour it in a crystal clear mug
> and take it outside to drink?
Nope. Maybe in theory, but never happened to me. (I am very careful until it
gets out of the bottle, though...)
> This is not criticism just- Let's just have fun!
Even if your beer isn't as "good" as mine, if you enjoy yours more than I
enjoy mine, you "win".
-R
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 11:12:51 -0600
From: Jeorg Houck <jeorg@clinicom.com>
Subject: Plato -> SG
What is the conversion for Plato to SG?
Jeorg Houck
Lafayette, CO
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 1995 14:16:07 -0400
From: Andrew McGowan <AMCGOWAN@WPO.HCC.COM>
Subject: Freezer Temperature Control - Help
I'm a novice brewer in South Carolina who just talked the wife
into letting me use the freezer (provided I buy her a new
one!!!). My local brew shop only sells a controller that goes
down to 40, too hot for some lagers. I've thread searched the
HBD and found White Rogers and Grainger models listed. I would
appreciate your help in getting the "right" controller. Please
include part/model numbers, where it can be bought, phone
numbers, etc. I'll summarize and post your replies - email is
fine. And a special thanks to John Palmer and David Draper for
their getting started and yeast culturing articles - they are
better than the 2 books I've got!!
Drew McGowan AMCGOWAN@wpo.hcc.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 1995 14:44:57 -0500 (EST)
From: PHIL RUSSO <RUSS4036@splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu>
Subject: Exploding Kegs
Date sent: 3-MAY-1995 14:38:28
The other night I was watching the news and I saw a tragic story.
A few kids on Long Island(my home town) went out in the woods in Lake
Ronkonkama (I think) with a keg or two. They were hanging out drinking
and they started a nice bon fire. One of the kids got a little too crazy
and decided to throw an empty keg on the fire, not realizing that the keg
was still sealed and hence-- pressurized. Afew minutes later the whole
thing exploded like a bomb. One of the teens was forty feet away when he
got hit with a huge metal chunk of the keg. Another piece was found an
incredible 250 feet away.
Just thought I'd pass on the warning in case no one ever heard of
this sort of thing.
RUSS4036@SPLAVA.CC.PLATTSBURGH.EDU
PHIL RUSSO
....................DUFF BEER RULES....................
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 11:48:38 -0700
From: raudins@lightscape.com (Glenn Raudins)
Subject: Free Bottles and Superb
Re: Free Bottles
With the latest move of the household, I have realized that I never unpacked
the bottles (bar style longnecks in their brown cases) from the previous
move 1.5 years ago. The kegging system has obviously won out. So if there
are any brewers in the San Francisco Bay Area who would like to come by and
pick up some bottles, send me some e-mail. Though, if Fermentation Frenzy
would take them I would leave them there for brewers to pickup. I have about
10 cases to share, all clean with no labels but a little dusty.
The case of Orval bottles stays, sorry, Hmmmmmm
Re: Superb Gas Grill
I have one and think it is great if you are using a SS pot, but don't believe
it will work with a converted keg. It is not like the cajun burners, it is
relatively flat (approx 8 inches high) and doesn't have legs like the others.
There are legs available I believe but they aren't an integral part of its
design. If you would like to know any specifics send me some e-mail and I
will try to help your decision.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Glenn Raudins Phone: (408) 246-1155 Ext. 113
Lightscape Technologies FAX: (408) 246-0255
raudins@lightscape.com
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 1995 15:02:48 -0500 (EST)
From: PHIL RUSSO <RUSS4036@splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu>
Subject: Beer Balls + new recipe
Date sent: 3-MAY-1995 14:48:36
Well, on my twenty first birthday (Friday) I tapped open the first
batch out of my beer ball. Wow......a good working draft system for forty
bucks... with the CO2 bulb attatchment it's about sixty. The beer was the
hit of my own party. It was even good when we drank the other half
Saturday night.
On to the recipe.... I tried reproducing Pete's Wicked Red
according to the label. I used:
1/2 lb Roasted Barley
1/2 lb Munich
1/2 lb Caramel???
one can of John Bull amber
one can of M&F amber
1 oz EKG fresh hops..bittering..@ 60 min to go
1 oz " " " .. " @ 30 min to go
1 oz Tettnanger hops.aroma @ 10 Min to go
I steeped the grains til the boil and then removed. I added the
cans of malt extract and boiled for about 60 min...adding the hops as shown
above. I forget the OG and FG (I know the people on here love those
figures) but it came out a little over 5% alcohol. After it was done
fermenting I put it in the beer ball and primed with a little over a half a
cup of corn sugar. I threw out the first cup full of yeasty beer but the
rest was awesome. Even the Michelob Light drinkers in my house liked it.
This was surprising because it came out way darker than the red beer I was
trying to recreate.
RUSS4036@SPLAVA.CC.PLATTSBURGH.EDU
PHIL RUSSO
........DUFF-- what homebrewers drink when they're not drinking homebrew...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 95 14:34:43 PDT
From: "Jonathan Kalmes" <jkalmes@arcada.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Airstones
Kirk writes:
>Brewers:
Well, not yet, but watching and learning.
>I visited a fairly large pet store this past weekend and asked >if
they had a stainless steel airstone, which I intended to use >as a
wort aerator. They had never heard of such a device, and >noted that
most saltwater fish enthusiasts use an airstone made >of "limewood,"
which has a suitable permeability.
Stainless steel is fairly expensive compared to plastic or limewood.
Most airstones get clogged pretty quick in aquariums due to detritus,
scunge, algea, and other inappropriate stuff. I generally change all
the stones in all my tanks once a week. I imagine beer would clog 'em
pretty quick too. We use cheap plastic because we can toss 'em. Ever
try to clean African Black Algea off anything? Even steel probably
wouldn't survive that.
>Is the stainless steel airstone a figment of someones imagination? My
guess is he was in a state of delirium and needs treatment.
>Can anyone quote me a source of such a device?
No. HOWEVER... There is a PLASTIC airstone that I happen to have a
few of and have never found again that is removable, cleanable, low or
high pressured, stain and algea retardent and boilable. (probably
stand up pretty well to wort). Obviously it's food grade (not
officially) because fish live with it. I don't like it because the
bubble are too big, but I have a few and will try to find out where I
got them or who makes them. If no luck, respond to me and I'll send
ya a few. <JwK>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 15:34:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rotorex <rotorex@clark.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Airstones
Kirk,
I don't think you should be looking for an airstone but a filter.
You need to purchase a Rheodyne Inlet Filter. These can be purchased in
pore sizes of 2, 5 and 10 microns. These are constructed of a corrosion
resistant stainless steel. These filters can be purchased through RAININ
1-800-4-RAININ.
Catalog number Description Price
38-6500-2 Inlet Filter, 2 micron, 1/8 inch stem $15.00
38-6500-5 " , 5 " , " "
38-6500-10 " , 10 " , " "
There is a $25 minimum order and they do take credit cards.
I have no ties with this company, blah, blah, blah.
Pete Cooke
Frederick, MD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 1995 16:08:46 -0700
From: Meyer@msscc.med.utah.edu (Larry Meyer)
Subject: Gout
I hate to continue a minor thread, but Kit "Travels With Chiles" Anderson
was only mostly right about gout-
- Gout is primarally a renal (kidney) disease (there are other rare causes)
- Dietary purines do have only a very slight effect on serum urate
but
- Alcohol can have a big effect on serum urate.
The explanation is that alcohol (or acetaldehyde, the product that makes
you feel hung over, not that it's ever happened to me) inhibits the kidneys
ability to put out uric acid (probably distal tubular excretion by the weak
acid pump for the purists). It was once thought that rich foods and wines
were causing gout by their purine load (foods high in DNA like meat, nuts).
As this was disproved, the renal mechanism became clearer. Other substances
can do this as well, specifically including asperin and HCTZ, a common
blood pressure medicine. Consequently, an acute goutty attack can be caused
by beer (or asperin), and most would recoment stopping all alcohol for a
substancial period following an attack. There are medications which can
help, and once under control, most folks with gout can drink some IMHO. If
anyone needs more info private e-mail is fine. Good luck if you are so
aflicted.
Larry Meyer (M.D.)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 17:44:36 -0600
From: bq982@Freenet.HSC.Colorado.EDU (Jason K. Sloan)
Subject: Hops
Well, here in SW Missouri it has been raining for something like
39 days and 39 nights. It looks like were going for a new record
(biblically speaking) and I had a question about my hop plants.
I planted my root cuttings in the highest area of the back yard
(this is their first year) but they are still getting soaked. If
the water level rises much more their bases will be submerged.
They have started to come up anyway but I was wondering if they
would eventually rot and die with such high water levels. So
far they are only about three inches tall, not the the kind of
growth that I had expected.
Any info is much appreciated. (Like should I dig them up and
put them in pots until the rainy season is over or should I just
let them go).
Another question: do rabbits eat hops? Something has
already removed the top from one of my vines and I suspect the
culprit is one of those wascally wabbits. You can't throw a
rock around here without hitting three rabbits on the head and
the problem will only get worse as the summer comes along (we have
a LARGE garden which keeps the rabbit population pretty high).
If rabbits DO have a taste for hops I will just throw up a small
fence around the vines. I hadn't heard that rabbits were a
problem though, just Japanese beetles and aphids.
So, water and rabbits. Do I have anything to worry about?
TIA......Jason P.S. Save a headache and send Email to
one of the freenet addresses, they work better than other address.
- --
Jason Sloan Yo ho ho and a bucket of homebrew!
aa3625@freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu
bq982@freenet.hsc.colorado.edu (or sloan01?jason@cc01.mssc.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 21:21:02 -0300
From: comsin19@nbnet.nb.ca (Com/Sinc19 Gagetown)
Subject: mini pub brewing system
1. Pros and cons of single stage brewing.
2. Should I sterilize my caps and if so how is the best way?
I am now brewing John Bull using then single stage method and it seems to
come out ok.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 10:44:27 +0000 (WET)
From: "Harold R. Wood" <hrwood@uog9.uog.edu>
Subject: stainless airstone
Kirk L. Oseid asks:
>>Is the stainless steel airstone a figment of someone's imagination?
Can anyone quote me a source of such a device?
Kirk, these are real but I don't know if they are used in the aquarium trade.
I use themin the liquid chromatography laboratory. They are described as
inlet filters and are used for two basic purposes:
1. to filter the liquid phase before it gets to the pump
2. to sparge liquid phase with inert gas (helium) to rid the
liquid phase of oxygen.
In the second application they are used precisely as an air (helium) stone.
They are rather expensive, but will last for a long time.
A Supplier:
Supelco
Supelco Park
Bellefonte, PA 16823-0048 (USA)
Phone: 800-247-6628 or 814-359-3441
Cat # Description Cost
5-8267 Inlet filter, 2um, 1/8" tube connection $38.10
5-9277 Inlet filter, 10 um, 1/8" tube connection $24.70
5-8267 is a 2 micrometer filter constructed entirely of SS.
5-9277 is a 10 um filter.
5-9277 would be the better unit for use as an airstone as it
would present less resistance for pumping air. However it is
constructed with a plastic collar.
Rick Wood
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 95 17:40:02 PDT
From: Lee Bollard <bollard@spk.hp.com>
Subject: Mercury poisening
A while back I broke a floating thermometer while measuring the temp of
some water I was heating (cold outside + hot water = busted thermometer).
The mercury flowed into the water in the kettle. I immediately poured
out the water, and the mercury exited the kettle in a nice clump.
I continue to use this kettle (Volrath stainless 38qt) for all my
brewing. Do I risk mercury poisening?
- ---
Regards,
Lee Bollard
bollard@spk.hp.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 21:25:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: downing@robocop.NYU.EDU (Troy Downing)
Subject: Cork finishing bottles
I would like to cork finish some of my beers. I have a whole mess
of those large Belgian bottles that use the mushroom shaped corks
with the wire cages. Can anyone point me to a supplier that sells
a corker that will work with these types of corks? I have a regular
wine bottle corker, but it won't work with the mushroom corks...
I don't want to use the plastic champagne stoppers.
Thanks in advance,
-Troy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Troy Downing, Research Scientist (Voice) (212) 998-3208
New York University (FAX) (212) 995-4122
Media Research Lab
715-719 Broadway, Rm 1214 downing@nyu.edu
New York, NY 10003-1866 http://found.cs.nyu.edu/downing
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 May 1995 21:38:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: DLANICEK@GAMMA.IS.TCU.EDU
Subject: Yeast Questions
Hello fellow brewers,
I am new to this list and new to beerbrewing.
I have several questions regarding yeast that I am sure you experienced
brewers can answer. Please excuse my ignorance...
1. I am using dry yeast and I have read several methods for starting the
yeast: a) just throw the yeast into the fermenter straight out of the
package, b) mix it in 1 cup of warm water for 30 min., and c) mix it in
1 cup of warm water for 10 min., mix in 1 teaspoon of sugar, and wait for
it to churn and foam. Which is the best method? Are any of these methods
wrong?
2. What happens if I pitch twice as much yeast as needed?
3. One more question not regarding yeast: Will I totally ruin the
fermentation process if I take the airlock off for a brief amount of time
after it has started to ferment?
Thank you in advance for your words of wisdom.
Dan Lanicek
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 01:23:04 -0500
From: mdost3@vms.cis.pitt.edu (Mike Dowd)
Subject: Mash schedule questions/Grain roasting questions
I just found Randy Mosher's _The Brewer's Companion_ at a local bookstore
that was having a sale, so I picked it up. For the most part, I like the
book, but I have some questions.
In the section on mashing, Mosher provides a graphic detailing steps
involved in infusion mashing. He gives three different procedures: one for
light ales, one for high gravity ales, and one for dark ales. The
procedures for high gravity and dark ales involve a low mash (a rest in the
low 150s F) and a high mash (a longer rest in the high 150s F). Mosher
never explains why this procedure should be used or where he got the idea
for it. I can see that he is trying to use the different temperatures to
produce fermentables and unfermentables, but I'm wondering how well it
would actually work. So, I was curious whether anyone has used this sort
of mash schedule for heavy/dark ales (which are the types of ales I like to
make), and if there is any benefit to using this procedure. In addition,
all three procedures take at least 2 1/2 hours, and I wondered if there is
any benefit to mashing for that long.
********************
Mosher also includes a section on roasting your own grain, which I would be
interested to try. However, I'm confused about the colors and lovibond
numbers, because it seems that different sources give different numbers.
Some list chocolate malt as being around 350 L, while others give it as 500
L, and black malt ranges from 475 to 600 L, depending on the source.
Mosher gives one set of numbers in his "grain reference" chart, and
different numbers in his "grain roasting" chart. Maybe I'll just go ahead
and try, and see what I get, but it would be nice to know what to
expect/what to look for.
*********************
Any comments and advice would be greatly appreciated. I just recently
started brewing from grain (after brewing extract and partial-mash beers
for 6 months), and I am still trying to learn everything I can about the
wonderful science of brewing. Replies via e-mail are fine
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Michael Dowd "I could be mistaken. Maybe it was another
Slippery Slope Research bald-headed jigsaw-puzzle tattooed naked
University of Pittsburgh guy I saw."
mdost3@vms.cis.pitt.edu -Fox Mulder
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 7:51:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: Bonjour <KRHOVJAK_JD@lvs-emh.lvs.loral.com>
Subject: Poor Head Retention
I'm the new kid on the block. We started brewing about a year ago
and have done about 10 batches, some good, some okay. One problem
we have not yet solved is poor head retention, even when using
1+ lb. of crystal or other grains. I heard that you have to have
really clean glasses, so we are careful about that, but still no luck.
The head will not last more than a few minutes (but the beer seems
to be well carbonated).
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Personal mail is welcome.
John Krhovjak
Dallas, TX
krhovjak_jd@lvs-emh.lvs.loral.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 May 95 9:24:26 EDT
From: "Lee A. Menegoni" <lmenegoni@nectech.com>
Subject: 1056 Ferment temp.
In a recent HBD Al K states. " The next 1056 batch I made, stuck. Wyeast
really doesn't like temperatures below 63F
and will quit early if it encounters them. "
I have to disagree, In winter I ferment 1056 batches in my basement at
60-62F with no ill effects. I do pitch a larger quantity of starter
slurry into the wort and airate well. I get a vigorous ferment and a
normal FG. When fermented at these temps this yeast produces an especially
clean tasting and ester free beer. I use the 60-62F ferment to produce a
lager like beer using all Pilsner malt and Liberty hops in about 3 weeks.
Lee
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 May 95 09:56:49 EDT
From: spencer@med.umich.edu
Subject: Cleveland
Oh, no! It's a brewpub request! I'm going to be in Cleveland next
week (well, Oberlin, really). Can someone send directions from the
Ohio Turnpike (eastbound) to the Great Lakes brewpub. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 10:16:53 EDT
From: "Paul Stokely" <PSTOKELY@ea.umd.edu>
Subject: Boil Time/ Dope
Andy Lake asks the
>Question of the day:
> 1. A friend of my wifes brews his own beer and boils his
> wort for only 15 minutes. Why boil for 60 - 90 minutes, if
> 15 will do. What are the benefits of a longer boil?
A good roiling boil for 15 minutes may be enough to sterilize the
wort, but brewers also boil to 1) reduce the wort volume and increase
the gravity; 2) completely isomerize hop alpha acids which takes 30
minutes or more. Also a longer boil allows stepped additions of
first bittering and then aroma hops; 3) darken the color of their
wort and create a (hopefully) slight caramel flavor; and 4) put that
expensive Cajun Cookers to good use, dammit! I didn't spend $50 for a
measly 15 minute boil! ;)
Paul S. in College Park, Maryland
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 10:29:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Kieran O'Connor" <koconnor@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: BJCP NE Database
Hi
If you live in the following areas, I'll be handling the database for the
BJCP. ME, VT, NH, MA, RI, CT, NY, ON, PQ, NS & foreign.
I can answer questions about your status, change your address, etc.
I will also handle routine chores like providing labels, etc. for
competition organizers.
Since a lot of folks on this digest are in the BJCP, I'd like to collect
e-mail addresses to add to the records. That way when an organizer asks
for a list of area judges, I can provide e-mail addresses along with the
labels.
If you'd like to add your e-mail address to the database, update it, or
check to make sure I have it correct, drop me a note. Please put in the
subject header: BJCP NE Database, so I can sort my incoming e-mail.
**Please only send me mail if you are a BJCP Judge, those are the only
records this database has.**
I will not contact you unless I have any problems with your records. Thanks.
Kieran
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kieran O'Connor
koconnor@mailbox.syr.edu
Syracuse, N.Y. USA
In vino veritas; in cervesio felicitas.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1723, 05/05/95
*************************************
-------
