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HOMEBREW Digest #1728
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/05/11 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1728 Thu 11 May 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Bad Wade/Mouth Feel/Femme Fermentors/Who's what? (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock@oeonline.com>
Al brewpots II (Dan Pack)
Gravity and mouthfeel (David Draper)
Steeping Grains Question (Michael_Millstone-P26948)
Re: Equipment swap (Chris Strickland)
Aeration during lauter (Tom Baier)
Bottling beer? (Nigel Townsend)
Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #17... (TomF775202)
California State Fair Homebrew Competition (Darren Hanson)
microwaves and dry hops (Andy Walsh)
Malt Modification (Michael Galloway)
Competition Results? (WOLFF)
hydrometers (Rotorex)
EasyMasher ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
propane burners (Charles Wettergreen)
Open fermentation (IPPV)
Brewfest '95 (Darren Hanson)
SS hydrometer jar (Norman Pyle)
RE:Smoking Grains (Tom_Tills.wbst214)
Re: Malt (RWaterfall)
Re: Wort Chillers (Danny Gilliam)
Wheat Beer Color (Rafael C. Camarota / SJC Design Engineer )
Re: malt flavor (BrewDaddy)
dispensing chiller or jockey box ? (Eric Peters (919) 405-3675)
Freezer temperature control (FranHogan)
Wyeast 1338, Death by Mead, Ovens ("Harralson, Kirk")
Re: FG,OG, & mouthfeel ("Troy Howard" )
Body and gravity (Eamonn McKernan)
stuck fermentation FAQ (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Smoking grain (Ed Westemeier)
Re: Little Wolf hops (richard frederick hand)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 16:31:48 +0000
From: "Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock@oeonline.com>
Subject: Bad Wade/Mouth Feel/Femme Fermentors/Who's what?
In HBD 1726..
>Wade Wallinger sez Eat at Joe's...
Hey! I saw that! Off the digest! Off the digest! Burn him at the
stake!!!! (Or soak him in water, and smoke him with coriander using
the pages of the Guiness Book of World Records! That'll end his Good
Times! What a sick kid... ...What was I saying? I forgot. Damn
those aluminum pots!)
>Larry Bristol continues to challenge us with what our mouths feel...
Well, here's my $.02 (Why don't they put cents-keys on these stupid
things?!?):
I remember reading an article several years back on the subject of
'Engineering Food Appeal'. Addressed in this article were such things
as appearance, and mouth feel. (The most memorable aspect of the
article was a discussion about 'non-nutritive food varnishes'. Yuk!)
This article also bemoaned the elusiveness of some 'measure' of
mouthfeel.
Personally, I don't think it is as simple as just observing gravities
to determine the 'thickness' of feel. Just as flavors are made up
of taste AND aroma, I believe mouth-feel to be made of of several
components. Not simply a measure of the density (how thick).
Different compounds in the beer contribute different sensations to
the palate, tongue, gums, cheeks, etc. all contributing to the 'feel'.
Sugars, proteins, alcohols, etc. Reactions within the mouth between
beer compounds and saliva might also contribute - a high gravity
compound may react with saliva in your mouth creating a light feel,
for example (supposition on my part).
So I guess it comes down to this: If two beers start with different
OGs, and end with the same FGs - or vice versa - one wouldn't
necessarily have 'more or less mouthfeel' than the other, but they'd
most likely 'feel' different. This feeling being more dependant on
the chemical make-up (_recipe_) than the final gravity.
>On the subject of brewing women, or, er, women brewers...
Kit Anderson brews. Bettina Baber (Prodigy brew forum host) brews.
Mary Samuels CompuServe Bacchus beer forum host) brews. My wife
doesn't brew.
In fact, she doesn't like the smell or the boiling wort. Because of
this aversion, she allowed my to by a 3-kettle pico system with
pumps, burners, (hooo hoooo!) ALL THE GOODIES!!!
AIN'T LIFE GRAND?!?
> Well, Dave, I admit it. You were right...
My 'non-prestigious who's who' suggestion was met with stoney
silence. May we all contnue on in happy anonymity. (And may the
whoswho.faq file NOT become the subject of one of 'those threads'!)
Well, I've babbled on long enough...
Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | "Drink all you want - I'll brew more!"
President, Brew-Master |
and Chief Taste-Tester | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point
Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery | at the end of your day as every sentence
pbabcock@oeonline.com | requires proper punctuation." -PGB
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 14:29:03 -0700
From: danpack@grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack)
Subject: Al brewpots II
In HBD #1726 Rob Emenecker asked about putting a valve in
an Al brewpot which reminded me of a question I wanted to
ask. I've found a good source of 32 qt Al pots and was
thinking of buying one for my boiling kettle (I currently
do partial boils in a 22 qt pot). But living in an apartment
I'm limited to my stovetop so my question is is it practical
to boil 6-7 gal of wort using an electric stove? How long
is it going to take to reach boil and am I going to be able
to sustain a rolling boil for 60-90 min? What are the
experiences of you stove-top brewers.
I'm also planning on converting my old kettle to a mash/lauter
tun so, Rob, I'd appreciate it if you could post a summary to
your question.
Thanks,
Dan Pack
Pasadena, CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 08:05:25 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <ddraper@laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Subject: Gravity and mouthfeel
Dear Friends, in HBD 1726 Larry Bristol ponders, Zen-like, the various
relationships between OG, FG, and thickness/mouthfeel, etc., and wonders
if these things are quantifiable. I'd say not. First, it is very
difficult to predict FG for every case, although many brewers can through
experience and repeating a series of similar batches--especially
commercial breweries who make the same things over and over. But even
they frequently resort to blending batches for ultimate commercial release
because things don't always work out the same. Second, the amount of
alcohol has a strong effect on the mouthfeel of a batch. Using Larry's two
examples: two beers with the same FG of 1010, but different OGs of 1040
and 1060, will have very different mouthfeel, even if they are ostensibly
very similar types of beer (say pale ale). The one that started at 1060
will have its mouthfeel decreased owing to the larger amount of alcohol
(i.e. it will be thinner-feeling); however, I seem to recall that it is
written somewhere that alcohol enhances the perception of sweetness, and
that this may actually enhance the mouthfeel, but that seems
counterintuitive to me and does not fit with my experience. The second
example, with two beers of the same OG but one finishing at 1010 and the
other at 1015, is more straightforward. I think it is nearly a given
(again all else being nearly equal) that the 1015 beer will have more
mouthfeel, but most of this would be due to increased sweetness. That
difference in sweetness would be readily discernible, but different
tasters might characterize it in different ways.
Which brings me to my final point: this issue is so highly subjective that
trying to quantify it may be, although brave and Zen-like, doomed to
failure. What one person identifies as "body" another might call
"sweetness", not because one is a better taster than the other, but how
and what different people can taste has such a wide range. The range of
subtleties available in finished beer is enormous. How many of us have
tried to duplicate a recipe that we really liked, doing everything exactly
the same so far as we could manage, and have the result be subtly
different? Let us know, Larry, if you work this out, so we can award you
the Nobel Prize in Brewing!
PS Wade W.'s post on subtle ads reminds me of a line of Steven Wright's:
"I saw a subliminal advertising executive today...but only for a second."
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
- --
"Life is short; grain is cheap." ---Rich Lenihan
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109
Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper@mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428
....I'm not from here, I just live here....
------------------------------
Date: 9 May 95 15:09:00 -0500
From: Michael_Millstone-P26948@email.mot.com
Subject: Steeping Grains Question
All,
I am moving up to partial grain brewing and have a question when a
recipe calls for "steeping" the specialty grains.
I have been led to believe that one adds the grains to cold water,
heat to boiling, then strain out as much grains as possible, then add
your malts, hops, and adjuncts.
Now, others are telling me add the grains, then bring the temperature
up to ??? (I've heard 150, 155, 170) degrees and remove before
boiling.
What is the correct procedure and what might be the implications or
consequences of doing one versus the other.
TIA
Mike - Brewing and drinkin' in the Valley of the Sun
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 18:46:58 -0400
From: cstrick@iu.net (Chris Strickland)
Subject: Re: Equipment swap
> At the risk of offending the Homebrew supply store owners on the
> net, is there a way of having a used equipment list? It could
> also serve as a forum for people looking for a specific item.
Hmmm! Couldn't something like this be put on the ftp server where the
archives of the posts are stored?
- --------------
Chris Strickland
cstrick@iu.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 May 1995 16:53:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Baier <BAIER_T@SALT.PLU.EDU>
Subject: Aeration during lauter
I need help.
All my beers seem to have a consistently high level of what I perceive
as DMS. While I don't always find this objectionable, I have become
frustrated, and feel that I must have a procedural flaw.
1. While lautering, I let my sweet wort splash mightily down into
a bucket (as the brewkettle is currently holding the sparge liquor).
Is this aeration causing big-time HSA? Do I just *think* that wet
cardboard really tastes like canned corn? Seems like my 75-90 minute
boils would cure ills introduced at this stage.
2. I use corny kegs for fermenters, and I endeavor to be meticulous
about sanitation. I use iodophor, let it air *almost completely* dry,
and don't rinse. Problem anyone? Did we ever reach closure about the
effects of fermenter geometry on flavor profile?
3. I do almost exclusively classic British styles, with a single
infusion at 150-154F. Is it possible/likely that my thermometer is
so far off that I am really mashing at 160F+ and getting *tons* of
unfermentables as a result? FG is usually in the 1.010-1.015 range
for pales. I use a maltmill(tm) and zapap system, but my yields
have always been below expectation (20-25 p/g/p).
Any public or private problem-solving help gratefully accepted.
* Tom Baier - Tacoma, WA - baier_t@salt.plu.edu *
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 11:44:28 +1000
From: nigelt@delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend)
Subject: Bottling beer?
P.Hannah@cqu.edu.au (Paul Hannah)in Homebrew Digest #1726 (May 09, 1995)
asks about bottling beer. If you must do it (I prefer Kegs, even simple
plastic ones), then it *IS* much faster to use a second container to prime.
A second fermenter can be used (I use another plastic fermenter, without a
problem so far [reaching for some wood to touch!]), but I assume that any
large enough sterile container would do. It should be food grade and and
possibly not metal to avoid metallic flavours. This may not be an issue as
it will only be in there for about 30 -60 minutes, will be cold etc.
Earlier discussions on HBD suggested mixing by pouring the priming syrup
into the base of the container and then using the siphon pipe to mix as
well as fill the container. This is done by placing sufficient pipe flat at
the bottom of the container to form a circular motion of the liquid as it
enters the container. This circular motion swirls up through the syrup into
the beer and provides a pretty good mix. I lay piping flat for about 2/3 of
the base to achieve this effect.
I understand that there is advantage in reducing oxidation of the liquid at
this time. This can occur from excessive splashing of the liquid as it
enters the container. Laying the pipe flat will assist with this also.
Some people have equipent that allows them to lay a blanket of carbon
dioxide above the syrup. This is meant to reduce oxidation too.
As you say, mix the sugar, DME or whatever with boiling water to dissove
and also assist with reducing the number of bugs that will be introduced.
I let this cool in my glass jug with a lid over it (usually clingfilm) and
place in the container when warm, not too hot. I think that if I put it in
too hot, it will impart plasticy flavours to the beer.
This process takes away the problem of trying to emulate an octopus whilst
struggling to keep yeast and similar muck out of the siphon tube, keeping
the primary fermenter at an angle at the bottom to maximise usable beer,
and at the same time filling the bottle between your knees! It also saves
the hassle (particularly with DME) of getting the priming sugar into the
bottle through the funnel that keeps blocking from the moisture in the
bottles atmosphere. Blowing through the funnel tends to increase potential
infection as will wire coat hangers.
Your concern over buying a second caboy may be misfounded. You could try a
plastic fermenter instead, or any container big enough and meeting the
criteria specified above. My father has brewed wine and beer in plastic
dustbins (garbage containers?) for years and simply avoids the dark
coloured ones (not to be recommended unless they are food grade). I have
managed to get (free) some large plastic containers from the local bakers,
used to supply the fruit gunk they put in with the artificial cream in the
cakes.
Someone with more "knowledge than I, may wish to comment on the probability
of a metal container affecting flavour at this stage, and for a short time
(say 1 hour).
The above is a simplified recommendation and I hope it helps. All the
above comments are the results of listening (lurking?) to this Digest so
thanks should be given to all those unknown brewers who I have not
acknowledged (sorry) who have improved my brewing immensely. Thank you!
Any errors in the above are mine and should be corrected (gently please!).
They are through ignorance (lack of understanding) of the technical
processes, rather than a desire to ignite yet another flame war.
Nigel Townsend
Tasmania, Australia
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 23:19:53 -0400
From: TomF775202@aol.com
Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #17...
>Most homebrewers worry too much.
Now don't get me wrong. I Homebrew too, I just think that alot of us are a
little to anal about our sanitation. I can be too.
Also remember a brewery is not a large sterile facility, it is a plant, a
factory if you will.
------------------------------
Date: 10 May 95 02:16:19 -0700
From: Darren.Hanson@otter.limits.gigo.com (Darren Hanson)
Subject: California State Fair Homebrew Competition
First off, for full details and a copy of the Homebrew/Homewine handbook,
please write to:
California State Fair
Attn: Gerald Cresci <== IMPORTANT!
PO Box 15649
Sacramento, CA 95852
or call 916/263-3010.
Please remember, you must be a legal resident of the State of CA to enter.
Competitions of interest to this echo:
I Homemade Wine (submit 1-750ml bottle per entry)
Submissions must be received by June 9, 1995.
Division 1 - White Wines (Grape)
1.1 Chenin Blanc - dry
1.2 White Riesling - dry
1.3 Sauvignon Blanc - dry
1.4 Chardonnay - dry
1.5 Semillon - dry
1.6 Symphony - dry
1.7 Gewurtztraminer - dry
1.8 Misc - white - dry
1.9 Misc - white - sweet
Division 2 - Red Wines (Grape)
2.1 Cabernet Sauvignon - dry
2.2 Gamay - dry
2.3 Petite Sirah - dry
2.4 Zinfandel - dry
2.5 Pinot Noir - dry
2.6 Merlot - dry
2.7 Carignane - dry
2.8 Barbera - dry
2.9 Carmine - dry
2.10 Cabernet Franc - dry
2.11 Misc - red - dry
2.12 Misc - red - sweet
Division 3 - Rose Wines/Blanc de Noir (Grape)
3.1 Rose' - specify grape
3.2 Blanc de Noir
3.3 White Zinfandel
Division 4 - Sparkling Wines (Grape and Fruit)
4.1 Wine Grape
4.2 Fruit
Division 5 - Fruit Exotic
5.1 Seed Fruit
5.2 Stone Fruit
5.3 Berry
5.4 Citrus
5.5 Flowers
5.6 Vegetable
5.7 Other - Specify
Division 6 - Dessert Wines
6.1 All wines with 3% or more residual sugar
6.2 All wines with more than 14% alcohol
Division 7 - Vinegar
7.1 White Wine Vinegars made from grapes
7.2 Red Wine Vinegars made from grapes
7.3 Vinegars made from fruit other than grapes
7.4 Vinegars made from other materials
II Homemade Wine Label
Submissions must be received by June 7, 1995.
III Homebrew (Submit 3-12 oz bottles per entry)
Submissions must be receive by July 22, 1995.
American Lager
Continental Lager
1. Helles
2. Pilsner
3. Export
Light Ale
1. North American
2. Cream Ale
3. American Wheat
Pale Ale
1. English Bitter
2. CA Microbrewery Pale Ale
3. Indian Pale Ale
Continental Wheat Beer
1. Beliner Weisse
2. Weizen
3. Dunkle Weissen
Mixed Style
1. Steam Beer (TM - Anchor Brewing Company)
2. Kolsch
3. Dusseldorf Altbier
Dark Lager
1. Continental Dark Lager
2. Munich
3. Vienna
4. Oktoberfest/Marzen
5. American-Style Dark Lager
Brown Ale
1. English Brown
2. English Mild
3. American
Bock
1. Helles Bock
2. Maibock
3. Bock
4. Dopplebock
5. Weizen Bock
Porter
Stout
1. Dry Stout
2. Sweet Stout
3. Foreign Style Stout
Stong Ales
1. Strong Scotch Ale
2. Barley Wine (Exception: can submit 3-6oz bottles)
3. Imperial Stout
Belgian Ales
1. Trappist Ale
2. Belgian Ale
3. Belgian White
4. Lambic (includes fruit lambics)
5. Flanders Brown
Specialty Beers
By specialty ingreident(s) including ciders and sake
Fruit Beers
By fruit & other specialty inredient(s), no fruit lambics
Meads
1. Sparkling Traditional Mead
2. Still Traditional Mead
3. Sparkling Flavored Mead
4. Still Flavored Mead
IV Homebrew Label
Submissions must be received by July 22, 1995.
More details and entry forms/labels are included in in the "Homebrew/Homewine
Handbook" available from the CA State Fair commission.
Some typos in original document corrected during typing. No guarantees for
accuracy are made for either this doccument or the preliminary copy of the
"Homebrew/Homewine Handbook" are made by either myself or the CA State Fair.
- --
__
\/ dj Darren J. Hanson
PO Box 883
djhanson@quiknet.com North Highlands, CA
darren.hanson@otter.limits.gigo.com 95660-0883
B4/5 f+ t w++ c++d g++ k++ s- p Web Page Coming Soon!
- --
: Fidonet: Darren Hanson 1:203/172 .. speaking for only myself.
: Internet: Darren.Hanson@otter.limits.gigo.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 19:27:01 EDT
From: awalsh@pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Andy Walsh)
Subject: microwaves and dry hops
Hello,
Just a note on microwave sanitising.
It sounds like nobody is about to do this since
it has been discredited, but whatever you do, do *not*
microwave your dryhops for sanitation purposes.
I did this once about a year ago and got a really bitter,
astringent character in the beer that was not there before
I did this stupid thing. The microwaves must have superheated
the resident water in the hops (pellets) and isomerised the acids
or something. Boy that beer was bad. The funny thing is
that I didn't realise for a long time what I had done to cause
this! Some strange mental block...
Andy.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 04:54:13 -0400
From: Michael Galloway <mgx@ornl.gov>
Subject: Malt Modification
I'd like to go a little further along than just Klages malt.
Is there not a table around somewhere of malt/modification/nitrogen
level/etc? My feeble memory seems to recall seeing such a table
in either Brewing Techniques or Zymurgy. Are the Europeon/Belgian
malts really not fully modified? It would seem that malting fully
modified malt would be standard practice now.
michael galloway
oak ridge national lab
- ---------------------------
>Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 09:33:59 -0400 (EDT)
>From: "Jerry Cunningham (ESMPD)" <gcunning@Census.GOV>
>Subject: Klages malt
>Is Klages malt fully modified? Do I need to do a protein rest with this malt,
>if I'm not really concerned about chill haze? I've heard some people say that
>it's not fully modified and you need to do a protein rest, while others just
>do a single-step infusion.
>Thanks,
>Jerry Cunningham
>Annapolis, MD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 8:22:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: WOLFF@eclus.bwi.wec.com
Subject: Competition Results?
If anyone has the results from the US Open (Carolina Brewmasters-29 April
1995) or the Sunshine (Florida May 6 & 7) competitions would you please
post them. Thanks.
BW
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 08:26:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rotorex <rotorex@clark.net>
Subject: hydrometers
I am interested in purchasing 3 hydrometers. High O.G.(barely wines), Normal
range O.G.(pale ales), and F.G. I'd like the hydrometers to measure in Plato
and have a built in thermometer, so you can adjust for temp.
Anyone know of a supplier?
Pete Cooke
Frederick, MD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 09:22:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH@kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH@kbs.msu.edu>
Subject: EasyMasher
Hi All,
I've been considering purchasing a SABCO converted keg with the specially
modified EasyMasher (specifically for the SABCO) and using this for my mash-
and lauter-tuns. The one drawback I see would be stirring the mash
effectively without damaging the EasyMasher. The other concern is weight---I
frequently rely on direct heating the mash on the stovetop to maintain exact
temperatures---Will this thing crush my stove, thereby inciting a violent
outburst from my wife? Could someone with experience
using such a setup please write and squelch my apprehension? This would be
the first piece of equipment on my quest for the ultimate 3-tiered system and
it's rather expensive----I can't afford to waste any money right now. Any
and all advice is appreciated.
Bones
*+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++*
| Timothy Laatsch |email: laatsch@kbs.msu.edu | All-grain |
| Graduate Student |phone: 616-671-2329 | & |
| Michigan State University |fax: 616-671-2351 | Mostly |
| Kalamazoo, MI (Bell's Country)| | Insane |
| |
| "...like cops who hide holsters beneath their lapels, she had dangerous |
| things, but she downplayed them well...." ---Walt Mink |
*+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++*
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 08:26 CDT
From: chuckmw@mcs.com (Charles Wettergreen)
Subject: propane burners
To: homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
In HBD #xxxx, Norm Pyle quoted John Palmer:
HH> >The Superb gas burner quotes only 35KBTU compared to the 100+KBTU of the
HH> >Cajun >Cooker types, but it heats 12 gallons without any problems and I
HH> have done 5
Norm also sung the praises of 35K burners:
HH> I can attest to this. I use two different water heater elements, which are
HH> purported to be about 35K BTU, and they work fine. I have no trouble
I've tried the cajun cooker rocket engines, they heated fast and left *lots* of
soot on the bottom of my boil kettle.
I use a Brinkmans. It is a tripod about 3 feet high and has a large heavy duty
cast iron commercial burner suspended under the iron ring upon which the kettle
sits. There is an air/gas mixture slide and it comes with a needle valve
regulator for extremely fine flame tuning. It is rated at 160K. The only
problem was, I used to use *lots* of propane.
The burner element, which probably weighs 5 pounds, is adjustable; you can move
it closer or farther away from the bottom of the pot. I found that by moving
the burner to the adjustment setting closest to the bottom of the kettle, I
more than halved my propane use, and the time required to bring liquid to a
boil shortened considerably.
Chuck
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
Chuck Wettergreen One beer at a sitting is OK. Two beers, maybe.
Chuckmw@mcs.com But anything beyond that number goes over the
Geneva, Illinois line of recreational drinking. Ann Landers
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
* RM 1.3 00946 *
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 9:41:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: IPPV@gic.GI.COM
Subject: Open fermentation
There was a thread going (#1720 etc) about open fermentation, to
cover or not to cover. I thought I'd cast my vote to cover.
Seems my gear was down the basement and someone knocked the lid
off my plastic fermenter. I was down the basement doing other
stuff and noticed a somewhat foul but somewhat sweet odor.
There, in the fermenter, was a dead bat. Nice looking little
guy; starting to mummify. Seems like a strong argument against
uncovered open-fermentation (unless you're looking for a *very*
interesting lambic ;-) I thought I'd make labels for the next
batch I brew as "Bat's in the Belfry".
I sterilized the fermenter, but should I throw it out ... aaack
<< this message has been terminated by HBD robot >>
------------------------------
Date: 10 May 95 07:52:25 -0700
From: Darren.Hanson@otter.limits.gigo.com (Darren Hanson)
Subject: Brewfest '95
GREAT BEER. GOOD FOOD. LIVE MUSIC.
Student Buddy Program & Spectrum Events Presents:
Brewfest '95
Saturday, May 20, 1995, 1:00pm - 6:00pm
Gold River, California,
Regents Park, 11344 Coloma Road
(More shade tents than ever!)
Featuring: Rhythm Vandals, Who Dat Blues Band, Food, Games, Dancing, and "The
Dating Game."
And more importantly, featuring the skill and craft of:
American River Brewing Mystic
Anchor Brewing Nevada City Brewing Co.
Anderson Valley Brewing North Coast Brewing
Boston Beer Co. Pacific Hop Exchange
Bridgeport Brewing Pete's Brewing
Devil Mountain Bay Portland Brewery
Etna Brewing Red Hook Alre Brewery
Full Sail Rhinochaser
Golden Pacific Brewing Riverside Brewery
Grants Ales River City Brewing Co.
Gordon Biersch Rogue Brewery
Hangtown Brewing Rubicon Brewing Co.
Heckler San Rafael
Hogshead Brew Pub St. Stan's Brewing Co.
Humbolt Brewing Santa Rosa Brewing
Mad River Brewing Sierra Nevada Brewery
Mendocino Brewing Sudwerk
Murphy's Creek Weinhards
Price: $10.00 in advance / $13.50 at the door
Includes 3 beer tasting tokens (additional tokens $.50 ea)
Commemorative beer mug, program, and fabulous raffle prizes.
Tickets available at; Brewfes offices (916-856-7044), The Beat,
America Live!, Sudwerk, and other locations near you.
(My appologies to those of you not in the area. No guarantees of accuracy
are made. All typos are probably mine.)
(The Student Buddy Program is a wonderful organisation that matches
disadvantaged children with productive members of society and works to
encourage the kids to stay in school. This program has a remarkable track
record for effectiveness, so if you're going to be in the area, PLEASE, give
some serious thought to coming out. You'll get your free mug, be able to sample
some truely special beers, and help the next generation get off on the right
foot all for only $10!)
__
\/ dj
- --
: Fidonet: Darren Hanson 1:203/172 .. speaking for only myself.
: Internet: Darren.Hanson@otter.limits.gigo.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 9:00:01 MDT
From: Norman Pyle <npyle@hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM>
Subject: SS hydrometer jar
Kirk Fleming wrote, about recycling a keg:
>Cut the top out and make a fermenter if you need one for 10 gal. The dip
>tube can be cut off to make a gorgeous, unbreakable hydrometer jar by
>covering one end with a rubber cap or plugging with a solid rubber stopper.
>They cool quickly under the faucet, and never break.
Um, Kirk are you Superman in disguise? I'd need X-ray vision to read my
hydrometer through a SS tube. Must be nice to hang out with that Lois Lane
babe and make beer...
Norm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 08:08:58 PDT
From: Tom_Tills.wbst214@xerox.com
Subject: RE:Smoking Grains
I prefer to make beer with my grains, then drink it. But if you want to smoke
'em I guess thats O.K. too ;>)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 12:08:11 -0400
From: RWaterfall@aol.com
Subject: Re: Malt
bvaughn@netcom.com said:
"After doing 6 extract and one all grain I have yet been able to get a
good malty flavor in my brews. It was suggested that I bump up the
adjuncts. Maybe 2# crystal malt and 2# cara-pils."
Try decoction mashing. I assume your one all-grain was an infusion mash.
Decoction is a bit more of a pain in the neck, but I'm pretty sure it's the
traditional method for those malty german beers like oktoberfests and I know
it's suggested for weizens (if not, I'm sure someone will correct me (set
flamethrowers to low, I already toasted my winter-pale skin in Santa
Barbara)). I've tried it a couple of times and had very malty results.
My doppelbock is actually a little too malty sweet (it finished around
1.030). I've thought about trying the enzyme addition discussed here last
week, but I don't want to end up with Duff's Doppelbock Dry. Can I control
the amount of enzyme activity by using a low dose? My gut feeling is that
activity will be almost independent of dose since I think enzymes are
catalysts and catalysts are not consumed in the reaction.
Good luck,
Bob Waterfall
Troy, NY, USA
------------------------------
Date: 10 May 95 13:04:06 EDT
From: Danny Gilliam <73362.600@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Wort Chillers
In HBD1725, MHANSEN@ctdmc.pmeh.uiowa.edu sez:
<bunch-o-stuff-gone>
> They use a counterflow chiller; the kind
> that has the copper flowing through a large piece of PVC rather than a
> garden hose.
I built one of these counter-flow chillers that has the coiled
copper in the PVC pipe. I designed it so the water flows the opposite
direction of the wort flow in the copper tube, and also tried to set-up
a spiral of the water inside the PVC using 90 degree elbows inside the
thing (in theory it sounds cool, but...). The whole thing is about 24
inches long with ~30 feet of 3/8 copper coiled into a 2 inch diameter
coil with each coil about 1/2 inch apart. The PVC pipe is 4 inches in
diameter and the coil is centered perfectly down the length of the PVC
tube.
A test run with boiling water showed that it chilled the water to within
10 degrees. However, when I ran hot wort thru it, it only came within
~30 degrees of the cooling water. I finally realized that the wort was
thicker than the water and the cooling efficency wouldn't be the same.
My question is how have others built theirs and how close do you get
your wort to the water temp that is cooling it?
I've seen these things advertised by HB shops as being able to cool
within 5 degrees of the cooling water....and they are smaller than mine.
Does anybody know how the store models are constructed?
And to thwart some replies: I've been using the immersion type for
the last 20+ batches and would rather not do the garden hose trick.
Please post back to the HBD as I'm sure there are some others
that would like the info.
-Jay Reeves in Huntsville, Alabama
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 09:21:33 PDT
From: rafe@lattice.com (Rafael C. Camarota / SJC Design Engineer )
Subject: Wheat Beer Color
Wheat Beer Color
Saw a note yesterday on Wheat beer color. I have made 3
batches of wheat beer so far. I didn't use kit's I just
experimented. I made a 25% dry wheat and 75% dry light
extract. Another was 50/50 and another 75/25. I will get
to 100% wheat soon. I know that 100% light extract
makes a pale beer, and like Larry I have noticed that
all wheat beers seem to be light. Some how all my beer's
have been darker in color. I assumed the blending might have
something to do with it since the mixture was dark even before
it began to cook. So far the taste has been good. All
I have to say is that wheat beer does require a lot of
hops to get the flavor right.
Rafe
rafe@lattice.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 13:24:44 -0400
From: BrewDaddy@aol.com
Subject: Re: malt flavor
BVaughn@netcom.com writes:
> "I have yet to get a good malty flavor in my brews. It was suggested that I
bump up the adjuncts...maybe 2# crystal malt and 2# cara pils..."
First, a minor correction. Adjuncts typically refer to the unmalted grains
or cereals added to the mash, such as maize, rice, or oats. Crystal malt and
carapils are malted barley , so they would not be considered adjuncts as
such. Sorry if that sounds like a flame. It's not.
Second, although the addition of crystal malt and cara pils may make your
beer better, I would suggest you try using a different strain of yeast.
Though I lack the knowledge off the top of my head, I do know that different
strains have different flavor profiles that they produce. Some strains do
favor malt flavor and aroma production. I'm sure that somewhere in the
archives there is a text on the matter. Now that I think of it, I have the
information somewhere in my files. You can e-mail me directly and I'll send
you the yeast text that I have.
As long as your brews have been wonderful then I wouldn't worry too much.
Chuck G.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 13:15:50 EDT
From: epeters@edasich.rtp.semi.harris.com (Eric Peters (919) 405-3675)
Subject: dispensing chiller or jockey box ?
In less than two weeks I'll be taking about six kegs
to Ocracoke Island (NC), but my fifty cubic foot beer
fridge will have to stay home. Can anyone offer
suggestions on the best way to construct a post-keg/
dispenser/chiller/liquid-line-in-an-ice-bath/do-hicky.
Archive searching for "jockey box" turned up little.
It's obvious typical beverage line would be a poor
heat conductor, but if anyone has found it to be "good
enough," hey, that's good enough for me. I've heard
finished beer is hard on copper, but I only need it for
a week. Any advice or counsel will be greatly appreciated.
Private email preferred, as I am short on time and very
desperate. Thanks in advance.
Eric Peters
epeters@rtp.semi.harris.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 15:13:35 -0400
From: FranHogan@aol.com
Subject: Freezer temperature control
My local brew shop only sels a controller that goes down to 40 degrees, from
Johnson Controls
507 E. Michigan Street
Milwaukee, WI 53207
(product number A19BAG-1, range 35-95 degrees F.) Mine works fine on 14
cubic foot chest freezer.
Dick Masterson
franhogan@AOL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 15:36:27 EST
From: "Harralson, Kirk" <kwh@roadnet.ups.com>
Subject: Wyeast 1338, Death by Mead, Ovens
Two of my recent batches have been fairly high gravity (1.072, 1.080)
ales fermented with Wyeast 1338 European ale yeast. There is a
strongly alcoholic (hot on the tongue), harsh cidery taste in both of
these beers that I can't identify. If you've ever tried to drink a
mead when it was too young, you know what I mean. Both were all-grain
with no adjuncts. Both were fermented at an ambient temperature of
70F, with the fermometer reading 72F during primary fermentation. Is
this high enough to cause this type of off-taste? After 6 weeks in
the bottle, it is fading, but still detectable.
Speaking of mead, last weekend, I got a little carried away with the
batch I made almost a year ago. The reputation mead has for hangovers
is unfortunately very, very true; maybe understated. It is a markedly
different experience than I have ever had with beer, wine, or anything
else. I have no idea what causes this, but warning labels will be
required for all future meads....
For the people who put their kettle in the oven for insulation, does
your kettle really lose that much heat during the mash? I just cover
mine and check it periodically during a 1 - 1.5 hour mash. The
temperature drop is usually very little. I never turn the burner back
on. If necessary, I add a quart or so of water that I'm heating for
the sparge on the next burner. I've never had a problem maintaining
temperature. On the other hand, overnight mashing sounds pretty
interesting. Does anybody do this? Pros and cons???
Kirk Harralson
Bel Air, Maryland
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 11:40:04 PDT
From: "Troy Howard" <troy@oculus.jsei.ucla.edu>
Subject: Re: FG,OG, & mouthfeel
Just to confuse matters further:
Don't forget that carbonation levels play an important part in the perception of
mouthfeel. Mouthfeel, in fact, is a very subjective sensation.
Given the subjective nature and complexity of "mouthfeel," it is probably
unreasonable to expect a single number or parameter (like FG) to characterize
the phenomenon.
On the other hand, we DO simplify color to a single parameter (transmittance, I
believe). So maybe it would not be unreasonable to do the same for mouthfeel.
Perhaps some standardized test could be developed such as de-gassing a given
quantity of beer, then measuring its viscosity (for example).
I am still dubious as to what value this would have in the homebrewing
community, however. Opinions?
-Troy
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Troy Howard | L
troy@oculus.jsei.ucla.edu | looking corpse.
Jules Stein Eye Institue, UCLA |
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 16:11:42 -0400
From: eamonn@chinook.physics.utoronto.ca (Eamonn McKernan)
Subject: Body and gravity
Russel Mast asks about the relation between FG and "body". I would guess that
two beers with equal *alcohol content* as well as FG would have similar
"body" or "mouthfeel". But remember, higher alcohol=> lower FG even with
the same amount of proteins in the beer because alcohol is less dense than
water. Body and mouthfeel seem to be pretty subjective terms, and to try
and semi-quantify them with measures such as FG is useful, but let's
keep in mind that they probably are not totally precise. But then again, one
of the main draws for me in this hobby is that there is room for fuzziness
(not just in my head) and subjectivity.
Eamonn McKernan
eamonn@atmosp.physics.utoronto.ca
------------------------------
Date: 10 May 95 14:00:00 -0500
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: stuck fermentation FAQ
On the urging of an HBD subscriber, I have expanded a post I once
wrote on "Stuck" fermentations and sent it to Stephen to have it put
into the archives. It can be found in:
/pub/clubs/homebrew/docs/stuck_fermentation.faq
Check the header of any HBD to learn how to access the archives.
I've also sent a copy of this FAQ to Spencer to put into "Spencer's
Beer Page" on the WWW. The URL is:
http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 16:56:15 -0400
From: hopfen@iac.net (Ed Westemeier)
Subject: Smoking grain
Well, it's hard to keep lit [rimshot] but seriously, folks:
I've been making smoked beers for about 5 years, and they
always get good reviews, so here's what I know.
1. It's not necessary to moisten the grain before smoking.
That will make it take up more smoke flavor, but you
really have to experiment to find out how much you like.
2. If you do moisten it, you must let it dry thoroughly
before crushing it. I use a schmidmill, and smoked grain
that's even a tiny bit damp will gum up the works and
make a mess. If you have one of the earlier schmidmill
models, as I did, it will even stop.
3. Some people crush the malt before smoking it, and that
may work better for you, depending on your equipment.
I don't use that technique, because I smoke it in a
wire basket in a backyard-type smoker.
4. The best compromise in how much to smoke is about 1/4
to 1/3 of the base malt. Much more, and the heat of the
smoking process will kill enough enzymes that your
extraction rate may really suffer.
5. Hickory will give you a great "bacon or smoked cheese"
taste. Personally, I like that, but many people find it
overpowering.
6. Mesquite will give you a very subtle sweetness that
accentuates a sweet beer very nicely. I recently made
a mesquite-smoked rye maibock that turned out well.
7. Apple will also give you a sweet note, along with a
fruity one. Nice in any Bavarian style beer.
8. Beechwood is, of course, the original, used in the real
Bamberg rauchbiers. In Bamberg, it's intensely smoky,
while the imported Schlenkerla is more subdued. Both
are, IMHO, to die for.
9. Mixtures of different kinds of wood are a good idea,
because they give a complexity to the beer.
Honestly, you have to experiment to find out how much of
a smoke character you like in your beer. Once you have a
few batches under your belt though, I can guarantee that
you'll make more!
Now go smoke 'em if you've got 'em.
Ed
******************************
* Ed Westemeier *
* Cincinnati, Ohio *
* E-mail: hopfen@iac.net *
* Phone: (513) 321-2023 *
******************************
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 22:08:48 -0300
From: richard frederick hand <ac081@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Subject: Re: Little Wolf hops
> Yes, I own a HB supply store (low key, little hype), but I have not come
> to sell (knowingly) but to draw upon the collective wisdom of the HBD. I
> recently acquired some hop plants with the name of *Little Wolf*. Has
> anyone heard of this type, is it an acronym for a better known variety,
> or what? The greenhouse company that grew it knows little else about this
> plant except the seeds came from Britain. Also, can't seem to find any
> mention of it in plant books. Help would be appreciated.
> TIA (and now the dreaded commercial sig)
_______________
/ |
o ==== HOMEBREW |
o \_______________|
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
o Rick Hand ac081@cfn.cs.dal.ca Tel/Fax(902)454-U-BRU (8278) o
o Maritime Brew & Wine Ltd. Halifax, N.S. Beer Wine Cider Kombucha o
oooooooo http://www.cfn.cs.dal.ca/~ac081/hand.html oooooooooooooooo
Visit my home page for recipes, information, etc. - Open 24 hours
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1728, 05/11/95
*************************************
-------
