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HOMEBREW Digest #1720
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/05/02 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1720 Tue 02 May 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Stainless steel, how to tell. (Matthew Robert Koster)
dry hop with pellets (Dan Pack)
Just Hops phone and email (Glenn Tinseth)
Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1717 (April 28, 1995) (Cyruslax)
Kegging (Harold LaRoux)
RE: Sam Adams Mittlefreuh hops (Tom Clifton)
Re: Bugs (TomF775202)
Bashing advertisers (rodney dyer)
Wort filter / Good Times (Pulsifer)
AD:(sort of) Seed Barley ("Bill Radosevich")
Re: "Is My Beer Ruined?" FAQ (Kevin McEnhill)
Copper boiling kettle (TPuskar)
Incomplete fermentations (Lee Bollard)
Open Fermentation (Kirk R Fleming)
SRM Color Guides (Dennis Davison)
BUZZ-OFF AHA Competition ("Houseman, David L [TR]")
Good Times Virus is a Hoax (mike.keller)
Warning! E-mail virus? (DONBREW)
Re:Masching Corn (John Mrazek)
Broken Bottles (Stanton_A)
re: Apologies/Gelatine/Black Malt/Who's Who (usfmchql)
Re:Food & beer/Cider,Mead (Martyn Westguard)
NOTE 05/01/95 06:50:00 ("TCRGR@chevron.com")
RE: first decoction (Jim Dipalma)
What's fermenting? (PatrickM50)
Head formation (Btalk)
ALT BEER (A2J)
No commercials/oatmeal (barber eric stephen)
Kitchenaid Grain Mill - Bad Rap (dsanderson)
Mash Temperature control. (Chris Cooper)
Carboy Covers (dsanderson)
New Miller book (JLinscheid)
Returned mail: OG Calc Erratum (Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies)
OG Calc (M.Marshburn/D202)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 15:25:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: Matthew Robert Koster <matthewk@csd.uwm.edu>
Subject: Stainless steel, how to tell.
Hi,
I have just found out where I can get some stainless steel kegs for a
relatively cheap price. But how do know if they are really stainless steel?
Someone mentioned before that some kegs will have a 304 on them, meaning 304
alloy or something like that. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Mk...
_______________________________________________________________
Matt Koster Located in beautiful
Email : matthewk@csd.uwm.edu post-industrial
WWW : http://www.uwm.edu/~matthewk/ Milwaukee, WI
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 15:25:25 -0700
From: danpack@grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack)
Subject: dry hop with pellets
A question for the collective wisdom:
I'm exclusively an ale brewer and a self-confirmed hop head. I dry
hop most of my beers and until recently have used only whole hops.
However, I prefer the convenience of pellets and so on my latest
effort I tried dry hopping with 1 oz of pellets. I had read about
the difficulties of keeping the hop residue out of the bottles but thought
I'd give it a go anyway.
Well, I did end up with a lot of hop *junk* in my bottles (which isn't
a major problem, it just looks bad; you don't think my beer is
ruined do you? Should I throw it out? ;->) Anyway, I was wondering
how one might get around this problem. I guess a standard hop
bag has holes which are too big to hold in the pelletized hop bits.
I was thinking of tying the pellets in a piece of cheesecloth
(or perhaps old underwear) instead of a hop bag. Any thoughts on
this? What about using a coffee filter (No. 4 cone) the same way?
Do any of you pellet users have nifty solution?
Thanks for listening,
Dan Pack
Pasadena, CA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 15:36:54 -0700
From: gtinseth@teleport.com (Glenn Tinseth)
Subject: Just Hops phone and email
EricHale@aol.com asks:
>Also, who's got Just Hops phone number?
I do. It's 217-864-4216 or try email kellums1@aol.com
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 19:04:28 -0400
From: Cyruslax@aol.com
Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1717 (April 28, 1995)
I would like to know if anyone has information on how to
spectrophotometrically assay the color rating of your beer.
thanks
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 18:31:37 -0500
From: breworks@appsmiths.com (Harold LaRoux)
Subject: Kegging
In HBD #1718 Ray Robert <rayr@bah.com> asks:
>
>I am getting ready to keg for the first time and had a question about
>kegging and bottling. I would like to keep a few bottles around for
>friends, parties etc. but I want to keg the majority of the beer. My
>question is this:
>
>Is it better to prime the entire batch for the keg, carbonate and then fill
>the bottles using a counterpressure bottle filler or to prime the keg and
>bottles separately. I figure I would put the sugar in the corny keg and
>then siphon in the beer and carbonate. I would prime each bottle
>individually.
>
I would recommend priming the entire batch for the keg (1/3 to 1/2 cup corn
sugar?), then siphon as much as you want into the keg. Then add any
additional priming sugar reduced by the portion of sugar already added and
the portion of the beer put into the keg.
For example, assume a priming rate of 1/2 cup for 5 gal. keg beer, 3/4 cup
for 5 gal. bottled beer and half is to be kegged and the other half bottled.
You would add your 1/2 cup to the entire 5 gal. and siphon 2.5 gal. into the
keg. You would then need to add 1/8 cup (3/4 cup desired rate - 1/2 cup
already in * 1/2 batch) more priming sugar to the remaining 2.5 gal. before
you start bottling.
>Another question I have is how much to prime (if any) if I were to force
>carbonate?
No need to prime at all if you are force carbonating.
>Also which is better force carbonation or natural (i.e.
>priming)? I am in no great hurry so I was going to go with the natural
>process. Inquiring minds want to know.
>
Natural carbonation seems to have a denser and longer lasting head with
smaller bubbles than the same beer force carbonated. You also lose out on
being able to prime with aromatic flavoring additives such as honey,
molasses, maple syrup, etc. when force carbonating. You can't beat the speed
to glass however.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:05 EST
From: Tom Clifton <0002419419@mcimail.com>
Subject: RE: Sam Adams Mittlefreuh hops
- -- [ From: Tom Clifton * EMC.Ver #2.2 ] --
>Date: Sat, 22 Apr 1995 11:57:39 -0500 (EST)
>From: "NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE" <SFO@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu>
>Subject: Sam Adams Mittlefreuh for Dry Hops [HBD #1714]
>
>Has anyone used the $12.00 Sam Adams hops to dry hop their beer? I >tried
them on 2 batches and found a wierd flavor that I describe as >earthy or dirty
in the beer. It's drinkable but hasn't decreased in
Funny you should say that... I just kegged a batch of generic ale
that has 1/2 Oz Brewers Gold for bittering and 1/2 OZ of the SA hops
for flavor and I have the same earthy taste. The yeast, by the way
was the Wyeast European Ale, and the grain was M&F pale ale malt.
Anybody else having the same problem that Sean and I did?
Tom Clifton
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 09:21:48 -0400
From: TomF775202@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bugs
>Have no instructions on sanitizing wooden bungs.
We (Kalamazoo Brewing) use Hoff Stevens kegs that use wooden bungs. There is
really no need to sanitize them. They are packed clean, and supposedly
sanitary.
Remember your beer is done ie contains alcohol has a lower ph, and much less
sugar; it is much less vulnerable to infection. If you worry too much soak
your bug in sulfite for a minute or so. Don't soak it too long though you
don't want to swell it before you bung your keg.
Most homebrewers worry way too much about sanitation.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 09:27:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: rodney dyer <n9410581@janice.cc.wwu.edu>
Subject: Bashing advertisers
As a fellow lurker, I was just as suprised as Steven Schultz to see the
free advertising go unchecked. Thanks Steven. This digest is intended
for the disemination of brewing information not advertising. Which
brings up an interesting point. Steven, isn't "Liberalism is a
philosophy...." advertising also?
R. Dyer
Scouts Out!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 12:45:23 -0400
From: Pulsifer@aol.com
Subject: Wort filter / Good Times
Has anyone tried to use a foam filter for an aquarium power filter. I have
the AQUAClear 300 and the foam filter is very large. I would cut a small
hole and stick the siphon tube in it. You would probably have to dispose of
it after one use, but they cost anywhere from $.59 to $1.19 (depending on
size) from That Fish Place at 1-800-733-3829. Most of these filters are
designed to filter at pretty good flow rates.
The Good Times virus was a hoax. The real virus was the insidious note
about the virus that will live on the Internet forever. One of our
secretaries sent it to everyone on site. Another colleague got 16 copies of
the note from different people.
Dean A. Pulsifer -- Pulsifer@aol.com
http://www.hal.com/services/juggle/home/Pulsifer@aol.com/
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 12:07:56 CST
From: "Bill Radosevich" <rado0005@gold.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: AD:(sort of) Seed Barley
I wanted to plant barley in my garden this year, so I called and called and
found someone who had seed for Robust and Morex barley. I ended up with a
bushel and a peck. It's sitting on my porch, and my wife is not amused.
So...
If anyone wants to plant a patch of barley in their garden this year, say
one square meter, (that's one square yard to the layman) send me a buck and
I'd be happy to mail you some seed. According to my source, the seed rate
is about 2 bushels/acre. This breaks down to 30ml/meter*meter. (about 1/8
cup) Normal yield for these seeds is 30-40 bushels/acre, so you won't get
enough to brew with unless you're making a B*dw**ser clone. :-) The seed is
not treated. This offer good until my wife loses her patience.
Bill Radosevich
3415 Pillsbury Ave
Minneapolis, Minnesota
55408 USA
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 13:12:25 -0400
From: kevinm@rocdec.roc.wayne.edu (Kevin McEnhill)
Subject: Re: "Is My Beer Ruined?" FAQ
This is great! It is nice to see some humor on the HBD. For The last six
months or so, things have got pretty fierce. It was getting to the point
where you needed a Nomex suit just to read ( the flames were getting very
common ). But ever sence "Beer Talk", the HBD has been a lot nicer to read.
Oh BTW Norm, you forgot one question, I hope you can answer it.
Q: My bottles have a white ring around the inside of the neck that waves
back every time I look. Is my beer ruined?
**********************************************************************
* * /|~~~~~| I was told by my wife that *
* kevinm@rocdec.roc.wayne.edu * | | | if I brew one more batch *
* * | | | of beer she would leave me!*
* Kevin McEnhill * \| | *
* * |_____| I'm going to miss her :-) *
**********************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 15:13:58 -0400
From: TPuskar@aol.com
Subject: Copper boiling kettle
I was in a Corning/Revere factory outlet today and saw a 13 gallon copper
"clothes boiling kettle" on sale for about $75. It reminded me of an old
kettle my grandma used to have back before indoor plumbing and electricity.<g>
It is oblong in shape. I didn't take measurements but I figure it is about
30 inches by 18 inches and maybe 18 inches high. The figures might be off
but the capacity is stated on the label. The bottom seemed to be
welded/brazed/soldered (I don't know the proper term) to the sides. I asked
the clerk (a part time college student) if it was food grade and she looked
at me like I was nuts.
This thing would probably span two burners on a typical stove and would seem
to be a neat and less expensive alternative to a large stainless or enameled p
ot. I'm pretty sure it comes with a top as well.
Does anyone have any insight to this kind of pot? Is it likely that the
joint is safe? Comments from the mettalurgists in the family? Would the
dual heat source (using two burners) cause any problems? I can't think of
any. Might be tough using an imersion chiller, though. Stirring would
probably be a must. I'm also not too sure how sturdy it would be when full
of wort. It had handles on both ends (along the long axis) but seemed a bit
flimsy.
Even if this isn't any good for beer, it certainly would add some nostalgic
charm aside a fireplace.
Comments would be welcome.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 12:39:54 PDT
From: Lee Bollard <bollard@spk.hp.com>
Subject: Incomplete fermentations
After many successful all-grain Pale Ale batches, my last two
fermentations have "stuck"!
#1 11 lb Pale
1.5 lb 60L
Wyeast #1056
Single infusion mash @ 157F
OG= 1.059
<< FG= 1.032 >> !!!
- ---------------------
#2 9 lb Pale
1 lb 40L
.5 lb 10L munich
.5 lb wheat malt
Wyeast #1056
Single infustion mash @ 155F
OG= 1.052
<< FG= 1.037 >> (after 7 days in primary) !!
Both batches appeared normal during the primary fermentation.
They were active with continual bubbling through the airlock.
I use a pint of Wyeast starter.
Batch #2 did NOT have a layer of yeast in the carboy bottom
after racking to the secondary! This surprised me. Usually
there is quite a bit of yeast sediment. The beers taste FINE,
but a bit sweet.
Ideas: My thermometer could be miscalibrated and I'm mashing
too warm.
I didn't check the true mash temp inside the GOTT
during the mash, I just add the same amount of 170F
water as worked successfully in previous batches. So I
COULD be mashing at too high a temperature. But that
wouldn't explain the lack of settled yeast in the
primary of batch #2 would it? (I carried the carboy
downstairs about 24 hrs before racking but didn't shake
it much). It also wouldn't explain my previous
successful similar (pale ale) batches that fermented
out to 1.012, 1.015, 1.018, etc.
Infection? Both batches taste fine...
I've kegged batch #1 and am drinking it. Batch #2 is in the
secondary, and I would like to "fix" it if possible.
Could someone suggest what I might do to diagnose this problem?
I would appreciate any ideas you have of what might be wrong
here. Thanks!
Lee Bollard
bollard@spk.hp.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 17:14:48 -0600
From: flemingk@earth.usa.net (Kirk R Fleming)
Subject: Open Fermentation
Okay, the results are in. The last 8 batches of beer I've done have each
been fermented in a 3 gallon stone crock. During the entire fermentation in
each case I've kept the crock covered with a dinner plate. The crock has a
1:1 aspect ratio, or at least the beer contained therein does. I want to
thank Jim Busch in particular for inspiring me to try this--it's been a MUCH
more enjoyable brewing experience than has the use of the glass, airlocked
carboy. I can get in and "muck" with the kraeusen, as Jim says, smell the
action, and hear the yeast doing their work. A holistic brewing experience,
you might say.
I think everyone I've read msgs from who "open" ferments uses the technique
I first heard from Brain Gowland in the UK: to wit, they cover the vessel
only when yeast activity is low, then uncover during those times of big CO2
effluence. Sure, this make sense from the standpoint of ensuring the
greatest protection of the yeast IF you want to uncover the fermenter. But...
Why uncover at all? I use this fermenter because it was on hand and it
allows me to skim the residue off the foamy head. I like that. But I've
kept the crock covered with the dinner plate because I still don't want an
open invititation to airborne *anything*. What benefit do you open ferment
enthusiasts see to doing a fully open-top ferment? What exactly is the point?
Kirk R Fleming
Colorado Springs
flemingk@usa.net
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 19:13:44 -0500
From: ddavison@earth.execpc.com (Dennis Davison)
Subject: SRM Color Guides
Since the post a few days back I have been inundated with requests. Sorry,
but I don't sell Retail. I only sell wholesale. The guides are available at
a retailer near you. If your retailer does not carry them they can contact
me from my Ad in Brewing Techniques.
Sorry to waste this digests bandwidth.
- --
Dennis Davison ddavison@earth.execpc.com Milwaukee, WI
Manufacturer of The Homebrew Color Guide
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 21:59:00 EDT
From: "Houseman, David L [TR]" <DLH1@trpo3.Tredydev.Unisys.com>
Subject: BUZZ-OFF AHA Competition
From: Houseman, David L [TR]
To: HBD
Subject: BUZZ-OFF AHA Competition
Date: Monday, April 17, 1995 10:31PM
American Homebrewers Association
Sanctioned Competition
(And BJCP Judged)
Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists Present
The Second Annual
BUZZ-OFF
Sunday, June 25, 1995, 10:00 AM
Valley Forge Brewing Co. Resturant and Pub
Gateway Shopping Center, Rt 202, Devon, PA
Location/Sponsors
This year s competition will be sponsored by Beer Unlimited, BUZZ and the
Valley Forge Brewing Co.
Resturant and Pub. The event will be open to the public. The awards
ceremony will follow the competition.
Eligibility
The 1995 Buzz-Off Homebrew Competition is open to all non-commercial home
produced beers.
Enter as often as you wish. Enter as many categories as you wish.
Categories
The 1995 BUZZ-Off will judge beer, mead, and cider styles recognized by the
American Homebrewers
Association. AHA categories and subcategories will be used (see enclosed
category list).
All entries must indicate category, subcategory, and style description.
Sake will be enjoyed, but not judged. All entries will be judged according
to the style entered. Categories receiving fewer than five (5) entries may
be combined with a related category for the presentation of awards.
Awards and Prizes
Certificates of achievement, first, second and third place ribbons will be
awarded in each category or combined category as well as for the BEST of
SHOW. BUZZ will secure commercial sponsorship for category winners. A
total of up to $1000 in gift certificates will we awarded. All questions
and disputes will be settled by the competition organizer. All decisions
will be final.
Entries
An entry consists of two (2) bottles, accompanied by a completed
entry/recipe form -- one for each entry. A bottle ID form must be attached
to each bottle with rubber bands -- No glue or tape.
Beers must be in clean 10-16 ounce glass bottles, free of labels, raised
glass, silk screen, or other identifying markings. Any markings on the cap
must be completely blacked out. No swing-top bottles.
All entries become the property of BUZZ. No bottles will be returned.
Entry Fees & Deadlines
Entry fees are $5.00 per entry. Make check payable to Beer Unlimited.
Entries must arrive between June 7 and June 21, 1995. Entries will not be
accepted before June 7 or after June 21, 1995. Send entries to:
BUZZ- Off
c/o Beer Unlimited
Rts 30 & 401
Malvern, PA 19355
Local entries may be dropped off between June 7 and June 17, 1995 at any of
the Philadelphia Area homebrewing stores.
Packing and Shipping
Pack in a sturdy box. Pad each bottle and the inside of the box. Line box
with heavy trash bag and twist-tie securely. Pack entry forms, recipe
forms, and fees outside the bag. Mark the box Fragile. UPS is recommended
for shipping.
Beer Label Contest
Beer labels will be judged for artistic merit and appropriateness to the
style for the label entry. Entry fee is $2.00. Each label must be
accompanied by an entry form. In order to show off your labels in their
natural environment, submit entries attached to an empty, capped beer
bottle. First, second and third place ribbons will be awarded.
Delaware Valley Homebrewer of The Year
The BUZZ-Off is the final jewel in the local homebrewing crown: The 1995
Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year will be chosen based on points
awarded from the Hops-Bops, Dock Street, Moon Madness and BUZZ-Off
Competitions.
Judges
We will secure the most experienced, qualified judges possible. We are
soliciting qualified judges and stewards from all participating homebrew
clubs. Judges and stewards will be awarded experience points toward the
Beer Judge Certification Program, which is jointly sponsored by the AHA and
HWBTA. Prospective judges and stewards are requested to fill out the
attached form. You will be contacted individually to confirm participation
and given directions to the contest. Since this year we are holding this
event at a new Brew Pub in our area, there is even more reason to come and
spend the day out of the hot sun. The competition will begin at 10:00am.
Stewards should be present by 9:00am; judges by 9:30am for their
assignments.
Bed and Brew
Judges and stewards from out of the area are welcome to participate in the
Bed and Brew program. BUZZ club members are opening their homes for those
traveling from some distance who would like to have a place to stay for
Saturday June 24th and Sunday June 25th. Please indicate your desire to
have a place to stay on the Judge/Steward Registration Form and you will be
contacted several weeks prior to the contest.
You may enter using the standard recipe, bottle label and judge
participation forms or
For further information contact:
Jim McHale at Beer Unlimited (610) 889-0905
or
Dave Houseman H: (610) 458-0743
Competition Organizer W:(610) 648-4071
dlh1@trpo3.tredydev.unisys.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 02:23:00 UTC
From: mike.keller@genie.geis.com
Subject: Good Times Virus is a Hoax
Hi, there, just saw the posting about the "Good Times Virus."
THE GOOD TIMES VIRUS IS A HOAX.
The Department of Energy's Computer Incident Advosiry Capability
(CIAC) declared this to be a hoax in December of 1994, and has
recently issued a followup because of the resurgence of this urban
legend.
The HBD is not the place to discuss computer virii, but because of
the nature of this digest, and because it was asked here, I thought
I'd take the opportunity to present the info.
If you want the complete scoop, email ciac@llnl.gov.
Mike Keller, Zymurgy RT, GEnie
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 22:57:23 -0400
From: DONBREW@aol.com
Subject: Warning! E-mail virus?
JEEZ, not again.
Isn't this incredibly old news? Do we really need to have this thread again?
Let's just recap, that posting was debunked at least a year ago! Your
network guys are way out of synch.
Let "the good times" roll (over dead).
Don
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 22:14:36 -0700
From: harvard@haven.uniserve.com (John Mrazek)
Subject: Re:Masching Corn
Can anybody help with process of masching of a 60% crusched corn and
about 40% barley.I have tried it and it does not seem to listen to mee.
Private e-mail is OK.
Thanks
Regards
John Mrazek
harvard@haven.uniserve.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 May 95 07:37:00 EDT
From: Stanton_A <StantonA@po1.atl.bls.gov>
Subject: Broken Bottles
Greetings!
I have amassed a collection of about 100+ bottles with which to bottle my
concoctions. Last weekend I bottled my fourth batch, an old ale, and had
trouble with the necks of the bottles breaking. This is only the second, at
most third batch that has been put into these bottles (since I have so
many), and I'm wondering if this is normal. I lost about 12-15 beers due to
broken necked bottles. In the previous three batches I had only lost a
total of two beers to broken necks.
My question, is it normal for these bottles to have such a low life-span?
I'm using a double-winged bottle capper, should I invest in another capper
that isn't so rough on the necks? It didn't seem like it was taking a whole
lot of force to break the necks.
Private replies are more than welcome! Thanks in advance,
Art Stanton
Stanton_A@bls.gov | artstan@netcom.com
PC/Network Specialist
Bureau of Labor Statistics - Atlanta Regional Office
------- =_aaaaaaaaaa--
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 May 1995 08:27:20 EDT
From: usfmchql@ibmmail.com
Subject: re: Apologies/Gelatine/Black Malt/Who's Who
First, I apologize for the AGE of this material, but my mailer at oeonline has
been screwing up royally. I've made three attempts to post this to the Digest
in the past two weeks to no avail. If one of those notes comes ripping out of
the cyber-vortex they seem to have fallen into, I apologize in advance for the
wasted bandwidth...
NOW:
>On the melting gelatine (To boil, or not to boil) thread...
If I inoculate viscous gelatine/wort slants (due to the melting problem), and
then refrigerate them after growth begins, will the setting of the gelatine in
any way harm the yeast? Would pitching the entire blob into a starter be an
exercise in futility (due to gelatine's propensity for adsorbing yeast)?
>On the black patent thread (sort of)...
I recently snagged a bag of what I thought was black patent. Upon arrival
home, I found it labelled 'Hugh Baird & Son English 2 Row Black Malt'. This is
black patent, right?
>On Dave Draper's (now dead) Who's Who thread...
Why don't we put together a non-prestigious, non-ranked, no assignment of
"you're better than they are" directory of HBD participants; posters and
lurkers alike? Do it just the way Dave suggested except that anyone and
everyone could put together a brief bio for inclusion. Participation would be
voluntary, of course. (I'm not sure if I'm volunteering either. Just
suggesting at this point...)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
PLEASE do not respond/reply to usfmchql@ibmmail.com - It is being used in
desperation. Any/all private e-mail resulting from any of the above should be
directed to pbabcock@oeonline.com. TIA.
"Drink all you want - I'll brew more!"
Best regards,
Patrick G. Babcock Michigan Truck Plant PVT Office
usfmchql@ibmmail.com 38303 Michigan Avenue
(313)46-70842 (V) -70843 (F) Wayne, MI 48184
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 22:52:03
From: brashs@iccu6.ipswichcity.qld.gov.au (Martyn Westguard)
Subject: Re:Food & beer/Cider,Mead
1. Can anyone suggest any recipies including Beer as part of the ingredient
list,and what beer style goes best with what food, or where out there in
"beerspace" I could find such recipies, E-mail is fine to save bandwith.
2. I have accquired a couple of cartons of apples and am wondering if someone
could point me in the direction of cider "cyberspace!" if such a place exists,
and lastly any areas that specialise in Mead,on the net,again private e-mail
would be appreciated...
Thanks in advance,
Marty... brashs@gil.ipswichcity.qld.gov.au(Martyn Westguard)
------------------------------
Date: 01 May 1995 06:50:06 PDT
From: "TCRGR@chevron.com" <TCRGR@chevron.com>
Subject: NOTE 05/01/95 06:50:00
To: OAS --SSW1 OPEN ADDRESSING SE
*** Resending note of 05/01/95 06:34
FROM: TCRGR@chevron.com
SUBJECT: Mini-Keg Conversion
I have a two mini-keg system (5 gal each) that I want to convert to
homebrew use. The bottom of each keg has a 5-6" hole. I plan to
get a metal plate to cover the hole and hold it in place with the
ring that the kegs originally used. I plan to drill holes for a
pressure relief valve and a valve for CO-2.
Question 1: Does this sound correct? If not, HELP!
Question 2: Where can I get these valves? (San Francisco Bay Area)
Answers: E-mail Please. tcrgr@chevron.com
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
** ** ** ** ** CRAIG ROSE -TCRGR- CHEVRON PARK V-1260 ** ** ** ** ** *
** ** ** ** ** 842-2756 ** ** ** ** ** *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 09:56:25 EDT
From: dipalma@sky.com (Jim Dipalma)
Subject: RE: first decoction
Hi All,
In HBD#1718, Jeff Stampes writes about his first decoction mash:
>After
>30 minutes, I used a saucepan to ladle out 10 qts. of a relatively thick grist
>(calculations of dry and liquid volume showed this to be approx. 1/3 of the
>mash). I heated this to 152F and held for 20 minues before bringing it to a
>boil. After boiling 20 minutes, I returned it to the mash, hoping to strike
>152-155F. I came in low,
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is a common problem, one that's easily solved. Next time, pull 40%-50%
of the thickest portion for the first decoction, instead of the 1/3 that's
commonly recommended in the literature. This is especially important if you
mash in a cooler as Jeff does, and can't add heat to the tun easily. By
pulling a larger fraction, you are much less likely to undershoot the sacc.
rest temperature when the decoction is added back to the rest mash. You
will likely have a little of the decocted mash left over when the desired
sacc. rest is attained. Simply cool the decocted mash to the same temp,
(it will cool very quickly), then add it back to the rest mash.
>so I simply pulled another 5 qt decoction, brought
>that to a boil and returned it to the mash. This time, it did stablize at
>154F. This wouldn't qualify as a 'true' double decoction, since I didn't
>boil it for any length of time the second time, correct?
Actually, I think decoct means "to remove", so technically this counts as
a decoction. This step won't be necessary if you pull 40%-50% for the
first thick decoction.
>All in all, the day was a little longer than my usual step-infusion mashes, but
>turned out to be a lot easier than I had anticipated...maybe a triple decoction
>belgian is in my future?
Try a bock using double decoction instead. Hold your rest mash at 140F and
158F, and use a grain bill of ~80% German Munich malt. Do this, and you will
see the true benefits of decoction mashing.
>72 Hours after pitching, it went haywire on my. I woke up in the middle of the
>night to find that the 5 gallon batch was blowing out of the 6.5 gallon carboy
>having already blown out the airlock. I guess I have to add my testimony to
>those who have noted #3068's violent fermentation nature!
Mine too. I brewed an 11 gallon batch of dunkelweizen a week ago Saturday,
split it into two 6.5 gallon carboys. There was over 3 inches of headspace in
each carboy. For the first three days of fermentation, there was a nice,
normal 1" thick krausen. On the morning of day 4, both carboys suddenly
looked liked Mt. St. Helens. The headspace was completely filled with foam,
there was thick, gooey looking, foamy mess spewing from both airlocks. I
sanitized a couple of clean airlocks, replaced the filthy ones, and took them
upstairs to clean them. Five minutes later, when I returned to the basement,
the newly installed airlocks were also spewing forth!! I ended up covering
the carboys with 1 gallon plastic bags, secured with rubber bands. When I
got home from work that night, the volcanoes had subsided somewhat, the
plastic bags were half filled with foam.
In 8 years and ~300 batches, I've never had a fermentation take off after 3
days of normal activity as this one did. I've also used Wyeast 3068 in the
past without this problem. I bought a fresh package this winter, it seems to
be associated with the cultures that were sold recently. Anyone know what's
going on here? Maybe if Dave Logsdon is reading this, he'd care to comment?
Thanks,
Jim dipalma@sky.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:08:33 -0400
From: PatrickM50@aol.com
Subject: What's fermenting?
Greetings! Has this ever happened to you? You make a nice 5 gal.
partial-mash batch of stout. It ferments down to 1.020 from 1.051 and all
apparent fermentation in the primary has essentially stopped. You dry hop
with 1 oz. of East Kent Goldings pellets in the
secondary glass carboy just for fun. Two days later millions of tiny bubbles
start appearing in the beer and a lovely head forms in the neck of the
carboy. After three weeks of observing these champagne-sized bubbles you
decide the batch got a wild yeast or some bacteria is now multiplying wildly
or something so you make another identical 5 gal batch. The first batch
doesn't smell or taste terrible but still . . .
The second batch reacts the same: Primary ferment goes to 1.020 with one
bubble in the airlock every 3 minutes or so. Dry hop with 1 oz of EKG
pellets. Two days later the tiny bubbles are back en masse along with a nice
head that my beer mug would envy! This sort of bubbly action has never
happened in my beers before. Sure, some fermentation continues after the
initial loss of CO2 by transferring to the secondary, but nothing like this.
Could there be something in the hop pellets that would cause this? Any wild
thoughts or related experience would be appreciated!
Cheers,
Pat
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:23:59 -0400
From: Btalk@aol.com
Subject: Head formation
The subject of head formation came up a a recent beer club meeting.
I suggested various grains, mentioning proteins, etc.
Some one else suggested that the hops had something to do with it.
I didn't want to call bull**** on this person in the middle of the meeting,
so I thought I'd do a short presentation on the subject at a later date to
set the record straight.
Imagine my surprise while in the midst of collecting/reviewing references, I
find a sentence or 2 in 'The New Complete Joy...' that says hops can affect
head !! That was news to me ( I must have overlooked it before- It has been
quite a while since i've TNCJOHB as my primary reference).
This is the only place I seen that mentions hops as having anything to do
with head formation/ retention, and it doesn't fit with everything else I
know about this.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this hops-head connection?
The only thing I could think of was a detrimental effect if the hops had tons
of oils.
Regards,
Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY <btalk@aol.com>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 May 1995 10:14:15 EDT
From: A2J@CU.NIH.GOV
Subject: ALT BEER
Neophyte questions of the day:
1. I'm interested in making a German style ale - an altbier. Are
alt beers typically fermented at warm temps for the first week
and then racked to a 2ndary and then cold fermented for 1-2 weeks?
If so what are typical ferment temps for both?
2. What is the general opinion on liquid extracts vs DME ? I
bought some Ireks LME for my alt - has anyone had good or bad
experiences?
3. Any other suggestions or recipes for an alt beer would be greatly
apreciated
Thanks for your help.
Sincerely
Andy Lake (a2j@cu.nih.gov)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:40:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: barber eric stephen <barber_e@einstein.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: No commercials/oatmeal
Yesturday I read:
>Recently, I have noticed some obvious self-promotion on the HBD by
>"Bill the Beer Man" whose moniker describes his business, includes his
>phone number, and provides an e-mail address for getting one of his
>catalogs.
While I am certainly no "heavyweight" I hate seeing ads
on the HBD. I have been aggressively targeted by ads
since I was born and do not need the bull sh*t also on
a NON-COMMERCIAL digest. From what I understood by
reading the digest policy note when I first subscribed,
was that commercialism is a no no. I also read the HBD
will be policed by the masses (thats you and me).
So quit advertising!!!! There are plenty of other places
to advertise without exploiting a free service.
OK, enough of that.
MYETTE@delphi.com asked about using oatmeal. The oatmeal
I used in an oatmeal stout was quick oats from the bulk
food section of the grocery. The beer turned out so
good with the perfect amount of smooth oatmeal taste.
FYI I used around 10 oz. in a five gal. full mash batch.
Eric
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 May 95 10:52:01 EST
From: dsanderson@msgate.CV.COM
Subject: Kitchenaid Grain Mill - Bad Rap
After sending the original request out I received a good deal of very
mixed feed back, thanks to all reviews good and bad!
Most of the input was quite negative overall. However when I considered
input that referenced actual experience using the mill, it was mainly
positive.
Based on further e-mail discussions with an owner/user I bought one($99
for a new one in a damaged box).
I brewed my first batch with it this weekend and was thrilled by it's
performance. I'm sorry I didn't actually time it but I estimate that I
processed the 20 pounds of grain in 30 minutes or less. The other user
I discussed this with quoted his throughput at 10 pounds in 13 minutes.
I'm used to using an adjustable Schmidling Malt Mill at a shop I used to
buy malt and came close to matching that crush on the fly. Now I buy via
internet @ $49.50 for 55lbs 2 Row British Pale Ale Malt post-paid to my
door.
So, I'm quite pleased with my setup and can give it 2 thumbs up since
both hand are free during grinding.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:54:32 -0400
From: Chris Cooper <ccooper@a2607cc.msr.hp.com>
Subject: Mash Temperature control.
Hello all, I am currently getting ready to try *All Grain* brewing
(I have 24 extract batches under my belt) and have been tinkering with
several ideas for equipment design.
I have been following the HBD for over a year and have accessed and read
the info in the archives. After serious efforts at relaxing and avoiding
worry while consuming home brew I have formulated the following design.
I propose to use a converted sanke keg (legal aquisition) with the top
removed below the support ring and place a coil of copper tubing inside
the the walls of the keg. I would then circulate boiling water through
this reverse heat exchanger from a second keg on a propane burner using
an electic pump. Mash temperature would be maintained by duty cycling
the hot water pump.
+---->------>---------->---+
| +---<---+ |
| | | | | | | |
|~|~~~~~~~~~|~| | |~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
|o| +o| | | | |
|o| o| PUMP | |
|o| MASH o| | | Boiling |
|o| o| | | H2O |
|o+ o| +--<---| |
|***screen****| | |
\ / \ /
----++----- -------------
Drain ^^Burner^^
The design has been governed to some degree by the materials
that I already have on hand (I am an admitted junk collector and
already have a high temperature pump, not food grade, a source of
3/8" copper tubing and a digital T/C readout with stainless probe
and digital control outputs).
I think this setup will provide good temperature control with
little danger of scorching the grains. Even though I have
most of the parts on hand this project is still on the drawing
board and I welcome comments and suggestions from the
HBD collective conciousness. TIA!
I will post a summary on this project when finished and the first
few batches have been brewed.
Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Where ever you go <--
ccooper@a2607.cc.msr.hp.com --> There you are <--
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 May 95 11:05:03 EST
From: dsanderson@msgate.cv.com
Subject: Carboy Covers
I'm brewing 10+ gallons batches and use two Carboys. Until it gets
warmer in New England and my basement warms up, I place the Carboys on
my kitchen counter where they become welcome members of the family.
I place them side by side with a dark golf shirt over each. I further
dress them up with a tie and place one arm over the shoulder of the
other. A few months ago McDonalds was giving away Tasmanian Devil Mugs.
I cut the bottoms out and place them over the air locks.
It's utterly ridiculous looking and nobody complains about the space
they occupy.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:08:10 -0400
From: JLinscheid@aol.com
Subject: New Miller book
Yesterday I was searching the Library of Congress via Telnet (locis.loc.gov),
and decided to see
what was listed about brewing. I was surprised to see that Dave Miller will
soon release a new
book:
Miller, David G., 1945-
[Homebrewing guide]
Dave Miller's homebrewing guide : everything you need to know to make
great-tasting beer /
Dave Miller. Pownal, Vt. : Storey Communications, 1995.
PROJECTED PUBLICATION DATE: 9510
ISBN: 0882669052 (pbk.)
LCCN: 95-13385
I downloaded all of the book titles I could find on brewing, yeast, and hops.
I is too large
(~110k) to post here, but I would be glad to pass along a copy to anyone who
is interested via
private E-Mail.
James Linscheid
JLinscheid@AOL.COM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 09:23:15 -0600 (MDT)
From: Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies <flemingk@earth.usa.net>
Subject: Returned mail: OG Calc Erratum
> In my OG calc post you may not have noticed my error in computing wort
> weight. As I often do, I failed to multiply by the gravity and wrote:
>
> 32 * (133/128) = 33.25
>
> which was wort vol (fl oz) * (oz wt/fl oz). I should have written
>
> 32 * (133/128) * 1.020 = 33.9
>
> The difference in the answer is small, but I post the correction in case
> anyone tries to follow the reasoning with their own data. I routinely
> make this error, so heads up.
>
- ------------------------------------------------------
Kirk R Fleming / Colorado Springs / flemingk@usa.net
- ------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 1 May 95 11:02:18 EST
From: M.Marshburn/D202@cgsmtp.comdt.uscg.mil
Subject: OG Calc
Fellow Homebrewers
I want to thank you all for providing much appreciated and used
information on brewing. I need some help. I've never tried to figure (or
cared) what the OG of my brews should be. Last night I figured I would use
CP's formula in THBC as I had made some modifications to my tun and procured
the Whirlygig sparger. His formula is %extract/8.6 *lbs grain/Gal wort * 4 to
get OG (.78/8.6=.090*10=.9/5=.183*4=0.73= OG 1.073). I had made a brown ale
using 8lbs 2row, 1lb aromatic, 1/2lb carapils, 1/2lb wheat, 1/2lb homemade
brown (10lbs) . Ground in a Corona mill, mashed/sparged flour and all. The
.78 is what I came up with using his grain extract table for all the grain
listed, I didn't give any points for the brown. I used 5 gals 175F water for
the sparge, the thermometer in the grain bed stayed at 167F during the 50min
sparge. I thought I had gotten good extraction due to the measured gravity of
1.058. I had insulated the zapap tun with two layers of 1/2in carpet padding
wrapped with duct tape. Will the Gott/Rubbermaid cooler help improve the
extraction, or maybe some improvement in my technique? Recommendations,
suggestions? Thanks! m.marshburn/d202@cgsmtp.comdt.uscg.mil
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1720, 05/02/95
*************************************
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