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HOMEBREW Digest #1697
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/04/04 PDT
HOMEBREW Digest #1697 Tue 04 April 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Recovering Homebrew Equipment from Fire (wyatt)
Norm Pyle where are you (Dion Hollenbeck)
various (Jay Seigfreid)
Floating yeast slime (Terence McGravey {91942})
Posting of competition results (Jay Lonner)
Water treatment & Yeast Culturing (XKCHRISTIAN)
Wheat Gelatinization Temperatures (Don Put)
Malt Extracts Created Equal? (Part 2) (MR ALAN F RICHTER)
Malt Extracts Created Equal? (Part 1) (MR ALAN F RICHTER)
Re: Priming with Honey (JOHNMAJ)
All Grain Novice (Bob Sutton)
Boil foam & other comments (PERSAND)
RE: Stuck CO2 regulator (Kevin McEnhill)
Priming with honey (Chris Cooper)
New Canadian Beer (Craig Mcpherson)
priming with honey (and sugar calc) (Dick Dunn)
Fast Ferments/Kraeusen Solubility/ElectroFlocculator (Kirk R Fleming)
Glass fermenters? (Jack Thompson)
Re: Contaminated Batch (Chris Strickland)
beer balls (PHIL RUSSO)
Cornelius Kegging Questions ("Jim Fitzgerald")
Best British Beers (Jim Cave)
commercial american and belgian beers (Andy Walsh)
Wit Stock (hkilpatr)
Report from the Sandlot, Coors Field (Jeff Benjamin)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 95 19:12:26 pst
From: wyatt@Latitude.COM
Subject: Recovering Homebrew Equipment from Fire
Hello All:
This is a slightly different request than the normal for the HBD
but here goes anyway.
I recently had a fire at my apartment and lost most of my
possessions but I was able to save at least some of my brew equipment.
Unfortunately all the malt and hops I had are gone. My first question
relates to a maltmill that I have. The base and hopper are a total
loss from water damage but the roller assembly is okay except that the
rollers are really rusted. It hasn't been that long since the fire (a
few days and I am supprised at how fast the rust has progressed. Does
anyone have any suggestions about how to remove the rust and prevent
it from further rust without sacrificing the fuction of the mill. It
has to of course be safe for milling malt. I know about navel jelly
and similar products but I'm not sure if these are safe to use on a
"food" grade product like a mill. I guess I could replace the rollers
but money is going to be tight for a while and I need to save what I
can. Also, if there are any other pitfalls to salvageing equipment
from a house fire please let me know. I saw molten metal(possibly
lead?) and all kind of weird looking stuff in the debris so I plan to
scub everything thouroughly then wash with vinegar to remove the
residues. I need all the help I can get.
On a separate note, I've used DeWolf Cosign Pale Ale malt quite a
bit in the past and never had any problems with clarity. I haven't
been using it lately mainly because I have been brewing more lagers
(until recently that is) and have been using german Pils malt instead
(although I have found quite a few beans in it which my mill really
didn't like). I wonder if the malt has changed.
One last thing, I have been looking into RIMS systems and was
wondering if these system are flexable enough to do a decoction. I
realize that the decoction would have to done manually but can you
remove the grist for the decoction then add it back into the mash to
get that "german" flavor. It seems to me that this would be very
plausable. The main reason I am thinking along these lines is to get
absolute repeatablity but if it keeps me from experimenting then i
don't want any part of it, after all, that's why I'm a homebrewer
(aside from BETTER beer of course).
TIA
Wyatt Jones
wyatt@latitude.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 95 19:44:31 PST
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Norm Pyle where are you
Sorry for the personal, but I tried Email already.
Norm - Your Email address at stortek is no longer valid. Please
reply so that I can get in touch with you.
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 23:44:36 -0600 (CST)
From: Jay Seigfreid <jays@earth.execpc.com>
Subject: various
I brew only extract and would love to hear from all you extract brewers.
I would even go so far as to say that if you will send me your recipes I
will compile them into a document.
Brewing only extract is quite a
challenge because the extract has already been cooked, it is not fresh,
who knows about the condition of the hops (hopped extracts), and who knows
what damage you do when you boil the extract more than it has already been
boiled. However, because of time constraints, I work at least 80 hours a
wweek -- and love what I do so I won't change, and hate rice and corn beer
(Bud -- but ugly dog -- and Miller, etc) I need to brew quick, easy and
generally fool proof beers. I am sure a lot of you are in the same boat
for similar if not different reasons.
I spent the summer of 1974 in
Europe. Drank a lot of beer and loved it. Then in 1983 saw an add in the
Rotarian, of all places, for a home brew kit. Because of this I now brew
the beer I drink, usually -- in the American Airlines terminal in Chicago
is a restaurant/bar that has a lot, and I mean a lot, of different beers
- -- it's a great place for a layover, of course there are other bars and
microbewerypub type places and micro brews around uhm, uhm good. The beer
kit was an extract and my first batch was as good as most I drank in
Europe, I was hooked -- isn't life great.
Roasted barley has come up a
few times here. I brewed a Black Rock Pilsner a while back and added a
ounce or so roasted barley. Got very high marks from my friends. Bought
the barley from the health food store and roasted it myself. Do this at
home kids, but be careful -- burnt barley stinks -- but the wife was out
and so she didn't get to appreciate my first attempt. She did appreciate
the outcome and just about single handedly finished off the red ass
Pilsner by her lonesome. I intend to do this again as it was very
different and very good.
What does TIA mean. Where Is the faq?, man. I
keep seeing this but don't have a clue. Just because I am clueless here
doesn't mean I am glueless but I won't have any of the white stuff -- is
an interesting thread and I have been fascinated by it -- how would I do a
Wit as an extract???
Have brewed several Mutons Nut Brown Ales. Seems
the fermentation gets stuck around 1.02*. Just brewed a Mutons IPA and it
fermented out to 1.008, as advertised. What's the deal? I even got out
the fishtank aerator. Purchased the last from a different source and they
have M&F yeast -- dry of course, (quit wincing).
BTW -- cultured a Chimay
red and used that yeast for one of the NBA -- don't try it -- I poured it
down the drain it was sourish -- may have made a good marinade, had a
lager ferment at about 90F in OK one summer that made an excellent
marinade but was otherwise quite worthless. Anyway, they have been quite
good, sweet but good -- I was trying for a Newcastle style -- used
Charlies TNC...etc recipe for Naked Sunday --
Speaking of Chimay -- I am
culturing a Grand Reserve. The yeast seems wispy in the bottom of the
bottle not gooey as other cultures I have made --wispy as in when I swirl
the bottle the yeast sediment wisps in the wort rather than staying put on
the bottom or flowing in mass. Is this ok? I had a lager do this after
several months in the bottle and those that did were sour (some bottles
soured and some did not -- strange). The Grand Reserve was so good and I
would like a recipe, extract of course, to duplicate the experience.
Thanks.
jay
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 1995 08:18:50 -0500
From: Terence McGravey {91942} <tpm@swl.msd.ray.com>
Subject: Floating yeast slime
I just made a Golden Ale - the second one in a row and the
spent yeast did not settle out. This was my first batch using
a glass carboy as my primary fermenter. The last batch used the
exact same ingredients and I racked to the secondary (5 gal glass
carboy) after 2 days. All the yeast had fallen to the bottom of
the primary (plastic bucket). The current batch has about 1/2 inch
of spent yeast (dough like) floating on top. I'm going to rack it
to the secondary anyway today. I brewed this batch on Monday and
it is now Saturday.
What might have caused this ? The same ingredients were used and
the environmental conditions are the same. The only difference is
the primary fermenter (now glass instead of plastic). I used M&F
ale yeast - 14g - re-hydrated in 100 degree H2O for 15 minutes -
same as last time. ANY CLUES ???
TIA
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| |
| _/_/_/_/_/_/ _/_/_/_/_/ _/_/ _/_/ WEST END PUB & PICOBREWERY |
| _/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Methuen, Mass. |
| _/_/ _/_/_/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ |
| _/_/ _/ _/ _/ Terry McGravey |
| _/_/ _/ _/ _/ Owner / Brewmaster |
| _/_/ _/ _/ _/ |
| tpm@swl.msd.ray.com |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Apr 1995 08:18:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Lonner <8635660@NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU>
Subject: Posting of competition results
Brewers,
This is just a quick request/reminder to refrain from posting competition
results in the HBD (we've been over this before). We were doing well there for
a while, but in recent weeks there's been a flood of competition-related
postings that can only be of local/regional interest. Perhaps the people who
post these results could instead send a one-line message along the lines of
"results are in, email me for a copy." That way interested parties could
follow up on it, while the rest of us could just tune it out.
Jay Lonner 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu Bellingham, WA
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Let be be the finale of seem/The only emperor is the emperor of ice cream."
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Apr 1995 08:51:30 -0800 (PST)
From: XKCHRISTIAN@CCVAX.FULLERTON.EDU
Subject: Water treatment & Yeast Culturing
I am interested in switching over to RO water for brewing. Can anyone give me
the recomended salts and at what amounts for pale ales vs. darker beers. Or
would it be a better idea to stick to boiling the tap water and using that? My
RO unit has a 5 micron prefilter and a carbon block post filter.
I am also looking for advice on a good method of preparing yeast starters. I
prepared a starter with some bottled wort from a batch a month or so ago and
the starter didn't produce a good starter. I took a Wyeast 1056 popped it and
let it swell, added a pint of bottled wort, let it ferment out, poured off the
fermented beer and added another pint of wort. I tasted the fermented beer and
it tasted like a wine rather than beer. Needless to say, I didn't brew that
weekend.
I went and picked up a 3 lb. of DME and decided to make fresh wort for my
starters. Now I am interested in preparing a healthy starter in as little
time without compromising the quality of it. I am thinking of taking 5 cups
water boiling it and adding 1 cup DME chill and pitch in a large jar with
air lock. It should be at high kr. the next day--BREW DAY. Oh ya, I'd also
hop the starter with a few pelots.
I'd appreciate comments on whether I should make step, wait until after high
kr...
TIA
Keith
xkchristian
BTW I really like the discussion lately on the inverted fermentation techniques
and the construction of the stands.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 1995 09:11:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Don Put <dput@cello.gina.calstate.edu>
Subject: Wheat Gelatinization Temperatures
>Al wrote responding to Jack's (I guess it's the *infamous* Jack now ;-)
>question:
>>Question? Does raw wheat need to be pre-boiled like corn to gelatinize it?
>Yes.
According to _Malting_and_Brewing_Science_, wheat gelatinizes at
52-64C (125.5-147F) so it seems pre-gelatinization wouldn't really
be necessary. They also state that "refined starches or starch in flours
of wheat, barley, malted barley, potato and triticale can be converted by
malt enzymes during mashing, the purified starches (or grits) of maize,
sorghum, rice, and oats all need to be gelatinized or precooked before
adequate conversion will occur." [volume 1, pg. 225]
Here's another interesting tidbit with regard to malt extraction:
"Consequently, when malt is mashed, more than 90% of the extract can be
recovered eventually at temperatures *below* the notional gelatinization
temperature of its starch." [their emphasis]
I know the wit beers I've brewed have always had excellent
extration without pre-gelatinization of the raw wheat. Does anyone know
if Celis has a cereal cooker?
don
(dput@cello.gina.calstate.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Apr 1995 14:11:27 EST
From: YXPE55A@prodigy.com (MR ALAN F RICHTER)
Subject: Malt Extracts Created Equal? (Part 2)
(Note: Part 2 of a 2 part post)
To confirm that Brands X & Y were different from the
rest, I combined the other brands into one catagory, called
Branded. I then repeated the ANOVA. The results showed
conclusively (>99.9% confidence) that Brands X & Y were less
fermentable than the rest. The results were:
Extract # of batches Avg. % AA
Branded 10 70.2
Brand X 3 49.0
Brand Y 3 55.8
The average of the branded extracts (70%) is much closer to
that obtained from the Cats Meow data (72%), leading me to
conclude that it was these unbranded extracts that
were causing most, if not all, of my problems.
Now, this still begs the question: Are there
differences
among the named brands? I have seen posts that indicate
that Laaglander is high in unfermentables and that Munton &
Fison is lower (this appears to be supported by my limited
data). I would like to collect more data on batches made
with extracts from different manufacturers so I can produce
a ranking of fermentability. IMO, this would be helpful for
deciding which extract to use for a particular style of
beer.
Is there anyone out there that would be interested in
supplying data for this study? If so, let me know via
e-mail. If there is enough interest, I can post what
information I need for each batch in a future issue of HBD.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Apr 1995 14:08:50 EST
From: YXPE55A@prodigy.com (MR ALAN F RICHTER)
Subject: Malt Extracts Created Equal? (Part 1)
(Note: This is Part 1 of 2 part post - thanks to Prodigy
limit on email length)
My purpose for posting this article is twofold. First,
I wanted to share the results of a study, based on my own
homebrewing experience, that others might find interesting
or useful. Second, I want to expand the study beyond my
limited experience by soliciting more data from HBD readers.
The main question that I am trying to answer is this:
Are there differences in the fermentability (as measured by
% apparent attenuation, %AA) of malt extracts made by
different manufacturers? My assumption going in was that
the answer is yes.
First, a little background:
My education is in the areas of chemistry and
statistics. In other words, I'm a scientist that knows a
lot of ways to analize (some might say, "lie with") data. I
have been a homebrewer (all extract) for 2 years and have
brewed 20 batches. For quite a while, I was worried that my
beer was not fermenting out as completely as it should. I
had read that I should expect the F.G. to be about 1/3 to
1/4 of the O.G. That is, an AA of 67% to 75%. Five of my
batches had an AA of less than 60%,the lowest being 48%. The
overall average of my batches is 63.5%.
Looking at my log book, I began to suspect that a good
portion of the problem was coming from a couple of batches
of malt extract. But, until now I didn't have enough data
(batches) to really test my assumption.
The study:
The first thing I wanted to know was how my experience
compared to others. I did this by collecting data from
recipes in the Pale Ale and Lager chapters of Cats Meow II.
I found 27 recipes with enough info (i.e. O.G. & F.G. given)
to be useful. Nineteen of these were ales and 8 lagers, 12
were all-extract, 10 all-grain and 5 mixed (partial mash).
The AA of these recipes ranged from 55.6% to 84.2% with
an average of 72.1%. The average for the 12 all-extract
recipes was 72.9%. Since my average was almost 9% lower, I
was convinced that there was a problem with at least some of
my batches.
Next, I took the data from by logbook and catagorized
the
batches by the brand of malt extract used. Of the 7 brands
I used, I knew the origin of 5 (Munton & Fison, Laaglander,
Northwestern, Morgan, and Irek). The other 2 extracts were
unbranded DME (I'll call them Brands X & Y). I excluded 4 of
my batches because they contained honey or brown sugar in
addition to extract. I looked for differences between the
extract brands with a technique called ANOVA. The analysis
showed that there were differences, and that Brands X & Y
appeared lower than the others. There also seemed to be
some differences between the named brands, but there is not
enough data to make any conclusions.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 1995 14:30:07 -0500
From: JOHNMAJ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Priming with Honey
I made a mead once, and in my inexperience decided to prime with honey to
keep the mead 100% honey. The mead was bottled in 16oz returnable Genny
bottles. The result of this was exploding bottles, and I do mean Dangerously
exploding bottles. The mead was set on a shelf in a closet 4 rows deep. One
of the bootles at the back exploded with such force that it blew 4 other
bottles off the shelf, and about 1.5 feet away. For this reason I say CP you
screwed it up again, as I only used 3/4 of a cup, and CP says to use 1 Cup.
Bottle it that way July 1, and put in the back yard on the forth for an
excellent show.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 95 15:52 EST
From: Bob Sutton <BSutton_+a_FDGV-03_+lBob_Sutton+r%Fluor_Daniel@mcimail.com>
Subject: All Grain Novice
" Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054"
<debaydr9@ibmmail.com> wrote:
>Did it last night, my first batch of real Reinheitsgebot homebrew.
<snip>
>Posts like this one describing the nuts and bolts of a batch were a big
>help to me and I hope that you also feel that the extra bandwidth is
>justified.
As one who is contemplating going to all grain, I found your post very
constructive. Right now I'm trying to assemble an economic starter system to
yield 20 liter lots using infusion or decoction mashing. Any advice on
pros/cons of infusion vs. decoction mashing would be appreciated.
My local supplier is ready to sell me a set-up that is a bit exotic for my
wallet. Although I've designed a number of biotech facilities, my homebrew
skills are not yet up to electropolished stainless steel, tri-clamped
fittings, PLC controls, etc. I brew mostly ales and porters :-) I find it
difficult to believe that food grade plastic would transmit significant
flavors between recipes. I'm planning to use a chest-type cooler for mashing,
and a 7 gallon plastic bucket with a false bottom for sparging. Has anyone
experienced batch to batch off flavors using plastic.
Email is WELCOME
BrewOn
BSutton_+a_fdgv-03_+lBob_Sutton+r%Fluor_Daniel@mcimail.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 1995 16:52:45 -0500
From: PERSAND@aol.com
Subject: Boil foam & other comments
Although I've been brewing both all grain and extract for 5 years I just came
up with this question: Should the foam that develops at the start of the boil
be skimmed off? Would harm does the foam do to the final beer?
Comments: The idea of adding a few bottle caps to the boil REALLY WORKS! I'm
doing full boils in a 7 gallon canning-type pot and the addition of the caps
really evens out the boil; tried it today and could not believe the
difference.
The use of a syringe to simulate a 'beer engine' is another great idea. It
really changes the character, for the better, of a Belgian Ale that was
intentionally low on carbonation. It's really creamy and even mellows some
of the hop bitterness down (but not out!). Before trying this I have always
been just a little dissapointed in low carbonated ales.
Concerning the cloudiness of Weizens I have always found that the beer was
clear in the bottle until the yeast was stirred up. I really don't think
that chill-haze is that desireable or necessary in this type of beer.
Lastly, I have always been a reader, not a contributer to the Digest and maybe
I might give my $.02 more often even if I'm not much of an expert-just one
who has made a lot of mistakes along the way to- IMHO-becoming a successful
homebrewer.
Thanks for the use of the BW
Paul Rybak
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Apr 1995 16:40:52 EST
From: kevinm@rocdec.roc.wayne.edu (Kevin McEnhill)
Subject: RE: Stuck CO2 regulator
Howdy,
A word of warning about fixing that regulator. BE CAREFUL!!!!! I had a
regulator go free flow (no regulation) on me, so I closed the tank and
took the regulator apart. What the hell, its broke already, what worse
could I do? After cleaning it out I found that the regulating needle
was bent. O.K. so I replaced it and put the whole thing back together.
No problem, the thing worked like new ....... for about a day.
The next day, I came in to work to hear all of the air quality alarms
going off in the tank room. I looked in and found that the regulator
that I rebuilt had blown itself to bits and drove the adjusting handle
into a concrete wall. Thank the brewmasters on high that no one was in
there!
My point is, yes you can fix that regulator but take your time, talk to
as many people that KNOW how to fix them as possible, and be carful when
you first put pressure on it.
Good luck!
**********************************************************************
* * /|~~~~~| I was told by my wife that *
* kevinm@rocdec.roc.wayne.edu * | | | if I brew one more batch *
* * | | | of beer she would leave me!*
* Kevin McEnhill * \| | *
* * |_____| I'm going to miss her :-) *
**********************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 1995 21:34:03 -0500
From: Chris Cooper <ccooper@a2607cc.msr.hp.com>
Subject: Priming with honey
There have been several recent posts about priming with honey
and here is my $.02 . I have brewed 5 batches in the last year
using clover honey to prime. I used 1/2 cup of honey for priming
and the carbonation was good in all 5 cases. Just one note, bottle
conditioning did take longer (4-6 weeks).
Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Where ever you go <--
ccooper@a2607.cc.msr.hp.com --> There you are <--
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 1995 21:04:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Craig Mcpherson <craigm@helios.cae.ca>
Subject: New Canadian Beer
The Unibroue Brewery of Chambly, Quebec, Canada has just added a fourth
beer to their line of brews. Named "Raftman", this beer bills itself as
being brewed from "delicately smoked malt, (and) offers a subtle bouquet
and a delicious lingering aftertaste." To quote from the back label of
the bottle. I am sampling my first pint myself at this moment. The flavor
is smokey and complex. I reserve further judgement. The beer is a 5.5 %
by vol. ale (it would appear. Doesn't seem like a lager).
Unibroue continues to impress me. They are one of the few North American
microbreweries that out do the Europeans at their own brewing craft. Most
impressive. I urge Canadians from outside the Province of Quebec to
contact Unibroue and see if out of province shipping is possible. As for
American beer lovers (sigh), you can do the same. But, alas, unless
anyone out there knows of a way I can order any of Pete's Wicked Ale
products (which aren't available in Quebec), I can only wish you all my
best, unless you want to make a drive up and sample local microbrews.
craigm@helios.cae.ca
------------------------------
Date: 1 Apr 95 23:12:35 MST (Sat)
From: rcd@raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn)
Subject: priming with honey (and sugar calc)
The subject of a few recent postings...Russell Mast <rmast@fnbc.com> notes:
> Someone mentioned priming their beer with 3/4 cup of honey. I hope you've
> got strong bottles. 3/4 cup of honey is a lot more sugar than 3/4 cup of
> dry corn sugar. About 3 times as much, working off the top of my pointy
> little head...
Actually, it's closer to twice as much, but Russell's error is in the
"safe" direction. If you want to do the calculations, here are some data
to work with.
Honey has a SG pretty close to 1.5; almost all of the stuff that's not
water is sugars; essentially all of the sugar is fermentable.
Interestingly, dry sugars that we might use for priming (incl corn sugar)
effectively behave when dissolved as if they had SG of about 1.5. For ex-
ample, if you dissolve 3 oz by weight of corn sugar in liquid, it will add
about 2 oz to the volume. (In places which use 20th-century measurement
systems, if you dissolve, say, 90 g of sugar in liquid, it will add about
60 ml to the volume.)
Now, dry sugars vary a lot in density, both depending on how fine they are
(finer sugar being less dense) and how they compact (a relatively fine
sugar can compact almost 20% just by tapping the container)...this is an
argument that you should weigh, not measure, priming sugar...but I digress.
A very rough value for typical corn sugar from a homebrew supply shop will
give about 4 oz weight for the old standard 3/4 cup dry sugar for priming.
OK, now remember that this 4 oz weight is going to behave like it's got SG
of 1.5 (meaning it's going to dissolve down to contribute a little over 2.5
oz of volume at effective 1.5 SG), and we're comparing this with 6 fl oz of
honey, which is around 9 oz wt...thus honey contributes somewhat more than
twice (9/4) as much sugar content per volume as dry corn sugar.
If you want to prime with honey, use about 1/3 cup per 5 gallons. (I don't
see the point in priming with honey...it's too small an amount to make much
difference in the flavor, but it does interfere with final clearing in the
bottle. Even when I'm making a mead, I prime with corn sugar.)
It would be nice if someone could gather "sugar calculations" like the one
above, organize them, and get them into a FAQ. We seem to revisit the
questions about using/priming-with honey every few months. There's enough
folklore, bad information, and incorrect inference drawn from cookbook
hints, that the chance of a new brewer priming with honey and making glass
grenades is just far too high.
Also, Rick Gontarek <GONTAREK@FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV> commented:
> Papazian's new book says to use 1 cup of honey to prime, but I am wary of this
> because of the info posted here...
Which new book, and where? Just on a guess, I looked in TNCJoHB; the only
suggestion I found was for 1/2 c honey per 5 gal (p. 174) for priming. The
point here is that if Charlie's high by a factor of 2 in some recent book
(significant because his priming is on the high side in most recipes to
start with) it would be nice to know where, suggest that he fix it, and
warn people.
>...To the person who primed with honey (sorry
> I forgot who it was), are you *sure* that the beer was done fermenting
> completely? (ie, did you take hydrometer readings?) No offense, but maybe
> the reason why the beer was overcarbonated was because it wan't fully
> fermented out...
Regardless of whether it was fermented out, priming with a full cup of
honey will seriously overcarbonate, maybe make bombs. Using a cup of honey
is like using *more* than 2 cups of dry sugar.
- ---
Dick Dunn rcd@talisman.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA
...When did "ergonomic" become a synonym for "right-handed"?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 1995 00:16:11 -0700
From: flemingk@usa.net (Kirk R Fleming)
Subject: Fast Ferments/Kraeusen Solubility/ElectroFlocculator
Fast Ferments. My second open ferment, like the first, seems very fast
compared to closed ferments with the same yeast and wort. Open ferments
have gone 24 hours from start to post-high kraeusen, vs. over three days
(and even 5) in the closed fermenter. Have other brewers noticed this?
[These were both 2.5 gal batches, which would explain *some* reduction in
time. Aspect ratio of the contained wort volume is very close to 1 in the
open fermenter, compared to about 1.5 or higher in the carboys.]
I thought my first open ferment was stuck and made a starter solution to
wake things up. Just prior to pitching I checked the gravity and found it
at 16 (OG = 56), so I concluded it really was done.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Kraeusen Solubility. I've been peeking in on the open ferment routinely,
and skimming the greasy residue from the wort surface. I looked in about
2 hours after skimming and noticed a new build-up of the goo--a uniform
and contiguous layer over one-half the surface. I decided to wait 'till
the next morning to skim. When I looked again about 45 min later, all
surface material was gone, including surface bubbles. Again, this is
at less than 24 hours from pitching. Whoa!
Question: The residue I'm removing from the wort surface seems only
slightly soluble in water, if at all. This seems to be one of the reasons
it surfaces in the first place. So how is it such a substantial amount
can fall back into the wort and disappear without a trace? Has it in fact
dissolved, or just precipitated?
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
The ElectroFlocculator. Okay, I didn't get much of a bite on the
cornball RIMS heat exchanger idea; maybe you thought the worst was over...
In the production of low-alcohol beers, I understand a charged "grid" can
be used to immobilize yeast. Would a polarized stainless screen immersed
in the beer clear it? (A few kilovolts DC around lots of conductive beer
and stainless tankage could be amusing.) Seriously...is electrostatic
precipitation of yeast a viable idea, has anyone tried it, and why might
you want to?
Kirk R Fleming
Colorado Springs
flemingk@usa.net
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 1995 23:56:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Thompson <jct@reed.edu>
Subject: Glass fermenters?
A friend is interested in starting a pico-brewery. He has most of the
equipment and owns a commercial building.
His question is whether or not glass-lined hot water heaters can be
adapted to use as fermenters.
What he has in mind are 50 to 100 gallon batches, and hot water heaters
seem to be cheaper than stainless tanks.
TIA for any thoughts/advice.
Jack C. Thompson
Portland, OR
jct@Reed.edu
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 1995 12:13:10 -0400
From: cstrick@iu.net (Chris Strickland)
Subject: Re: Contaminated Batch
Well, after waiting four weeks for my beer to finish fermenting, when
normally it takes 7-10 days. I bottled today (boy am I optimistic), the
beer had that rotten vegetable smell. Maybe I'll luck out after it
conditions in the bottle, but I doubt it.
Question: Are two contaminated batches out of 36 high?
- --------------
Chris Strickland
cstrick@iu.net
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Apr 1995 15:16:54 -0500 (EST)
From: PHIL RUSSO <RUSS4036@splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu>
Subject: beer balls
Date sent: 2-APR-1995 15:11:14
Hello All,
Recently I purchased a beer ball and hand pump tap for 40 bucks.
A cheap alternative to 250 dollar keg systems. I've got a batch of
"Phil's" Wicked Red (I made my own recipe based on the Petes Wicked Red
label) in my fermenting pail. Does anyone have any experience with
this type of equipment???? The only thing I know is that you add a little
less priming sugar to the ball. HELP
Email or a public post would be fine
RUSS4036@SPLAVA.CC.PLATTSBURGH.EDU
PHIL RUSSO
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 1995 17:09:23 +0000
From: "Jim Fitzgerald" <jimfitz@netcom.com>
Subject: Cornelius Kegging Questions
Hello,
I have a couple of "kegging" questions for all of you who are lazy
like me and prefer kegging to bottling. I have been using Cornelius
kegs for over two years now, I always try to have two beers on tap
(since that's really all there is room for in the fridge, I have to
share some of the space for food) and I was wondering if anyone out
there has found a tried and true way to carbonate consistently, I'll
list some of the problems that I have been having:
1.) When I prime the kegs using 3/4 cup of corn sugar per 5 gallons
it seems to carbonate fine...but after I attach it to about 5-8 psi
of CO2 it seems to lose it's carbonation through out a period of
about 2 or 3 days. I also tried leaving the primed keg in the fridge
for a couple of days before applying the pressure, but I still have
the same problem. What I end up doing is increasing the pressure of
the keg (12-15 psi) for a few days and that seems to get it to a
drinkable state. Any advice on a method here to use with priming
would be wonderful.
2.) The other method that I've been using lately is applying 25psi to
the keg (no priming) for 2 days, or so. This works, but sometimes the
carbonation is way too high, even after I reduce the pressure. Is
there a chart or anything that can be used to help judge
pressure/time for a given CO2 volume?
All in all, kegging is great, but if I could get some sound advice
from some of you kegging experts out there with several years of
experience I would be able to enjoy my beers with much less
frustration, and to me, that's important!
TIA...Cheers!
Jim
- -------------------------
Jim Fitzgerald
Los Gatos, CA
jimfitz@netcom.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 1995 19:34:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Cave <CAVE@PSC.ORG>
Subject: Best British Beers
I apologize for not remembering the fellow's name, but some-
one asked about "best British beers" that could be brought over from
England.
This is somewhat problematic, since most of the best are cask
ales! However, their are some tinned beers and a few bottle
conditioned beers that are worth trying to find. Suggest that your
friend go to "Oddbins" also, there are a few specialty shops around,
but I never found them:
Bottle conditioned beers: King and Barnes Festive Ale.
Eldridge and Pope's Thomas Hardy country bitter, Courage's
Russian Imperial Stout, Bass's Worthington White Shield, Gale's
Prize Old Ale, Harvey's 1859 porter, Burton Bridge Porter, (I have
not tasted the last 3, but they were recommended by the Camra
Beer Guide.
Tinned beers: The Camra types will poo-poo these but it's
a second best way to get English beers. Adnam's Strong Suffolk ale
in the tin is an excellent beer and an indication of an upper level
hopped English beer. Hard to find. Bass in the tin--much better
than the bottled stuff you get here. STAY AWAY FROM THE BLOOMING
PROLIFERATION OF BEERS THAT DISPENSE THE BEER WITH THAT NITROGEN
THINGAMAJIGGY IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TIN, E.G. BODDINGTONS!!
Look for Belhaven Export. This is an excellent example of a
Scottish heavy (i.e. not a scottish strong, or wee heavy but a
1.042 O.G. beer) and it is much better brought from the UK than
purchased in the US or Canada. Also, try and get some of the
Fuller's products in the bottle. London Pride and Chiswick bitter
are quite good and taste much different than those you might have
had from here.
I don't know what else to say. When I was travelling in
the UK, I always found and excuse to go to several pubs in the day
When I bought beer at the super markets, it was usually Bass as
I could count on the quality. I'm one of those odd guys who likes
Bass in the UK--it is a lower hopped fruity beer, but I like the
softness and complexity of it, and in some places, it may be the
only beer available that isn't kegged.
Good luck!
Jim Cave
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 95 12:53:00 EDT
From: awalsh@pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Andy Walsh)
Subject: commercial american and belgian beers
Hello all.
I have an American friend who has been living in Australia for a few
years now.
He is also brewer at a local pub-brewery, and is getting an Internet
connection
real soon. I have told him about the HBD and the collective wisdom,
and he is
interested, but unsure if it has adequate "focus" for him. He has a
few questions,
so lets see if we can answer them.
-He brews mainly British style ales at his pub brewery. He really
likes Anchor
Liberty Ale and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (who doesn't?) and would like
to try brewing
something along those lines, so would like to know what goes into
them. I brew this
style quite a lot, but he doesn't seem to trust me as I have no hard
evidence (this is
fair enough too). So, can anyone answer this question? He is
interested in IBU levels,
hop varieties, yeast and malt types etc.
So far, I have the following information:
hops - Liberty 100% cascade (Garetz). Jackson says large amounts
of finishing and dry Cascades in both. I have no data on IBU levels,
but 40IBU comes to mind for SNPA and 50IBU for Liberty.
OG- Jackson says Liberty is 1.057 and SNPA 1.052.
yeast- SNPA is closest to Wyeast 1056 (debate on whether it is
identical).
Liberty yeast??? Is 1056 essential for the style or will another ale
yeast do the job?
grain- Jackson says some crystal is used. IMHO there cannot be much
(from the colour and flavour) and it must be just about 100% 2 row?
This is my conjecture only.
- We had an argument about a few commercial Belgian ales too.
Orval - Is orange peel used at all (he thinks it tastes orangey).
Jackson
makes no mention of this, but that doesn't mean everything.
Is a strain of Brettanomyces used as a secondary yeast? Jackson
makes no mention of this, but I recall that someone mentioned on the
HBD some time ago that Bret. was responsible for the very dry,
somewhat tart finish.
Hoegaarden -
Does Forbidden Fruit use Curacao orange peel or just coriander?
So any responses would be welcome (please include references). It
would be great
(for me) if he could produce a decent American pale ale here in
Sydney. I am sure
Dave Draper (ex LA guy) would appreciate it too, as would the many
Australians who
have never had the pleasure of trying this style of beer. I am afraid
the general
impression here is that American lager is about all that is made
there! So help us
rectify this false impression!
Are there any mailing lists or news groups on Internet more suitable
than the HBD
for commercial microbrewers?
Thanks folks!
*****************************
//// Andy Walsh from Sydney
//// awalsh@ibm.net
//// phone 61 2 369 5711
*****************************
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 1995 23:08:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: hkilpatr@osf1.gmu.edu
Subject: Wit Stock
I called the 800 number for the prospectus (or notice of IPO - whatever it
is called) that Spring Street Brewery (I think that is the name - they
make Wit) advertised almost two weeks ago. I haven't received it yet.
Most people who want you to buy something are a bit more timely than this.
A mutual fund, for example, has a prospectus in your hands almost as soon
as you get off the phone. Has anyone received this IPO information? I'm
wondering if it's a problem with the mail or if they are not really
serious & just want some information on the prospective market.
Buddy Kilpatrick
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 95 21:35:41 MDT
From: Jeff Benjamin <benji@hpfcbug.fc.hp.com>
Subject: Report from the Sandlot, Coors Field
Well, the baseball boys may not be starting the regular season for a few
more weeks, but I did go to see the Mockies and the Wankees play the
firt ever game at Coors Field, and checked out the Sandlot, the first
ever Coors-owned brewpub. For those who don't know, the Sandlot is in a
building connected to the stadium. It's owned by Coors, but is
independent as far as brewing goes, with its own brewmaster and brewers.
The ballpark is incredible -- great views, great atmosphere; a joy
to look at and be in. Our seats were right across the concourse from
the brewpub, and you can get a beer inside and take it back to your
seat.
The brewing facilities are gorgeous, as you might expect of a brewpub
with that much capital behind it. The equipment is all built by NSI:
beautiful copper mash tuns and boilers, and fermenting vessels jacketed
with copper as well. They were brewing on game day; everything is
easily viewable from the pub.
In the pub itself, they were serving three beers: Rockpile Ale,
Squeeze Play Wheat, and Power Alley ESB. Outside at a stand on the
concourse, they had Pinstripe Pale Ale and Right Field Red. (Note
the baseball theme for the names -- how clever :-).
Unfortunately, the beers did not live up to the standards of the
rest of the ballpark.
I started off with a Rockpile Ale. It was a dark amber/red color, had a
very slight malty-sweet aroma, nice lingering bitterness, no hop flavor
or aroma and no ale-ish esters. It tasted like a lager. I thought I
might have accidentally been served a Killians Red (they were very
busy), but no, a second try confirmed that it really was the Rockpile.
Next up, the Squeeze Play Wheat. It was an amber/red color, just lighter
than the Rockpile. Again, no hop flavor or aroma, some bitterness but
some unpleasant astringency too. There was a bit of wheaty fruitiness
in the aroma, but no other ale-ish esters... until it warmed up. Then
I got hit in the face with very heavy diacetyl; buttery to a flaw.
So how about the Power Alley ESB, where diacetyl is a little more
acceptable? It was there again in spades, still too much for style.
The ESB also had a slight DMS/corn flavor, although there's the
possibility they actually did use some corn. And it was amber/red,
almost the same color as the other two, with a lingering finish but no
hop flavor or aroma.
I didn't get to try the Pinstrip Pale Ale or Right Field Red as they
ran out of beer by the bottom of the sixth.
To sum up, the Sandlot was disappointing, but given the different market
they're going for, perhaps not unexpected. Most Sandlot patrons, at
least on game day, are of the Joe Six-pack school. Even so, the
sameness and lack of character of the brews was inexcusable. I hope
that this was just a matter of first-batch kinks and that things will
improve, or I may spend a lot of this season at the "Beers of the World"
concession buying Moosehead or Foster's.
- --
Jeff Benjamin benji@fc.hp.com
Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado
"Think! It ain't illegal yet." -- George Clinton
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1697, 04/04/95
*************************************
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