Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #1681
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/03/16 PST
HOMEBREW Digest #1681 Thu 16 March 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Cheap Pots and Ramblings (Kevin Emery DSN 584-2900 )
floating Phalse bottom (Bob Monroe)
Extract degradation (Pierre Jelenc)
RE:tanks and stuff (Jim Busch)
RE: Pitch Timing (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
Homebrew Clubs list (Shawn Steele)
IBU Calcs./Sierra Nevada clone Q's ("Patrick E. Humphrey 708-937-3295")
beer judge exam (Skip Little)
SUDS 4.0 now at Stanford (David Draper)
Getting Started (BVICKERY)
testing (ALLIN1)
Septic and Bleach/ Canadian Mail Order? (Gordon Mowat)
bottle Cappers ("Westerman, Robert")
San Diego update (Dave Shaver)
all malt priming (Anthony Meehan)
HI (SCHEIDELRICK)
hbd subscribers in Ireland (Ulick Stafford)
Long Ferments (Chris Strickland)
Microbrews in Utah (ADNEYK)
Beer Engines (Bob Jones)
Bizarre RIMS Concepts (Kirk R Fleming)
Hops: which method works? ("ANDY..PBX 5152")
******************************************************************
* NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail,
* I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list
* that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox
* is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced
* mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days.
*
* If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only
* sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get
* more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list.
******************************************************************
Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
(Articles are published in the order they are received.)
Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc.,
to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if
you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L@UA1VM.UA.EDU),
then you MUST unsubscribe the same way!
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen@novell.physics.umr.edu
ARCHIVES:
An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer
related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at
ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full
e-mail address as the password, look under the directory
/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under
/afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have
ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail
service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service,
send an e-mail message to ftpmail@gatekeeper.dec.com with the word
"help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 95 7:34:38 EST
From: Kevin Emery DSN 584-2900 <ksemery@cbda9.apgea.army.mil>
Subject: Cheap Pots and Ramblings
I was in Dollar General yesterday and they have 34 Qt enamel on steel pots for
$15.00. This is a great deal for you folks that don't yet do full boils. One
side note... My "canning" brewing pot covers 2 burners, and still takes a
good while to boil. This pot is taller, and covers only 1.
I received my king cooker yesterday... Rated at 200,000 BTU. How long can
I expect it to take to bring 10 gallons to a full boil????
I converted a 1/2 barrel keg into a brew pot.... I have a compression fitting
welded on the inside, and plan to hook some copper tubing with holes in it to
loop once on the inside to act as a hop back. I used a circular saw to
cut the top off the keg, filed it down and its great (no handles, but I
don't plan to lift it anyway). For a lid, I found a large pizza pan, put a
handle on it, two holes for the chiller to run into/out of, and can't wait
to try this new set up.
Standard Disclaimers.
Kevin
North East, Maryland (They would have called it Merry Land if they had
had some of my brews!)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 08:49:30 -0500
From: Bob Monroe <monroeb@cosmos.uicc.com>
Subject: floating Phalse bottom
I thought I would pass along a suggestion for users of the Phil's Phalse
Bottom (tm) for all-grain brewing.
I have been using a Phil's Phalse bottom (tm) during sparging of my all grain
brews for quite some time, and have continually fought the problem of the
Phalse bottom floating up, which could (and has) resulted in a stuck run-off.
I recently solved the problem very simply an cheaply by buying a section
of 1/2" O.D. copper pipe, bending it in a circle, and laying it around
the outer edge of the Phalse Bottom. The pipe fills with water and weighs
down the Phalse bottom so it will not float. It does not cover a lot
of the holes in the Phalse bottom, so it doesn't impede the sparging
process. I tried other solutions such as using racking hose as a gasket,
and using a section of copper pipe in between the fitting on the P.B. and
the drain hose, but nothing worked as well as using the copper pipe as a simple
weight around the outside of the P.B.
For what it's worth...
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bob Monroe |
Senior Engineer | PH: (603) 429-8596
Unitrode Integrated Circuits Corp. | FAX: (603) 424-3460
7 Continental Blvd. | e-mail: monroeb@uicc.com
Merrimack, NH 03054-0399 |
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 95 10:22:31 EST
From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1@columbia.edu>
Subject: Extract degradation
In HBD #1680, Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff@bbn.com> asks:
> Also, does anybody know *why* syrup degrades and DME doesn't?
The degradation in question is the Maillard reaction, also known as the
browning reaction. Sugars (mostly the carbonyl groups) react with proteins
(mostly the amino groups) to form colored, complex, heterocyclic compounds
whenever they are left in contact long enough (can of syrup) or at high
enough temperature (steak on a grill).
Like all chemical reactions, it proceeds more easily if the reactants can
move around to find each other. That is why syrups will darken faster than
DME; but the latter will darken as well, given time or heat, albeit at a
much lower rate.
Pierre
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 10:44:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: RE:tanks and stuff
Micah says:
<Remove the sanke probe from the keg and replace with a 2 in clamp
<end ferrell ( so you clamp on a butterfly valve and stand pipe for
<racking) weld a 4-5 in clamp end ferrell to the ( now) top end of
<the keg for an easy , arm thru sized cleaning port.
Micah is showing he is an engineer that loves overkill! My god, a
2" port for a 12 gallon fermenter!! You do need at least 1.5" to
put a triclover butterfly, but I dont see the advantage of going
bigger, the cost per fitting increases rapidly with size. I also
prefer the idea of 1.5" triclovers on top, but this is because I
wouldnt clean through it, except for a recirc'ing spray ball CIP.
I guess my question is: why not use it right side up? If you are
using a 4" top port, this can be put at the former sankey fitting.
Then you can use a smaller and cheaper bottom port. Cool idea, though.
<If there is interest I can get more detailed.
Im interested! How would the stand pipe work?
Joseph says:
<There is some split about the priming method's contribution to flavor.
I use table sugar, if at all.
Kelly says:
< It appears that the BATF has allowed this company to
<trademark the term "Wit", meaning from now on, only these folks will be
<able to use this term on their beers.
God, I hope its only in the narrow sense. They should be required to
use the whole name and logo, Wit!. As long as the exclimation point
is present, it should be trademark'able. I would still hope that I
could market Jims Wit.
Mark writes:
<On the subject of Beer Engines, some people are confused about what constitutes
<a Beer Engine. The pseudo beer engine in Zymurgy is simply a sprinkler
<faucet. It is missing the pump necessary to be a true Beer Engine.
<I am looking to buy or build the entire pump & tap assembly.
Ive had beer off of Bob's pseudo beer engine and it was very good and
very similar to real cask ales. The sparkler, in conjunction with
extremely low CO2 levels is what makes a real ale. Some traditionalists
would argue that gravity feed is the only true real ale, and in this
case, the sparkler is non existent. The pump is a means to a end, not
the required component of real ale. Pumps are convienent, I love mine,
but they are quite costly. Bob invented a practical cheap method of
making a very similar product, if you can drill small enough holes in
the end.
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 95 12:40:38 EST
From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna@RELAY.COM
Subject: RE: Pitch Timing
RE the latest thread concerning the optimum time to pitch yeast, Jim
wrote:
>"The yeast pitched should be cells in the stationary phase, which
>have the
>maximum content of reserve polysaccharide glycogen."
As a fairly new homebrewer, I've been following this thread with keen
interest. I've always tried to pitch at high krauesen - because that
is what I found to be the "std wisdom". If I follow the above logic
correctly, it suggests the optimum time to pitch is after the yeast
has fallen. It would also seem to suggest that it is not such a good
idea to add fresh wort to a starter (to activate the yeast) before
pitching. If I've missed the boat on Jim's argument, please jump in
and correct me.
Would the original gravity of the wort have any bearing on this
argument? I've got a starter going for a trippel, and I'd like to try
this out...oh-I suppose the argument holds for building starters too?
Tim Fields
Timf@relay.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 10:59:51 -0700
From: Shawn Steele <shawn@aob.org>
Subject: Homebrew Clubs list
Well, I've noticed lots of people wanting to know about homebrew clubs in their
area. The AHA's list of registered homebrew clubs is available by sending
e-mail to info@aob.org and including the key word "CLUBLIST" somewhere in your
e-mail. The file you get back is ALL of the AHA's registered clubs, so it's
about 58K long.
If you prefer the web, the club list can be accessed at
"http://www.aob.org/aob/clublist.html" The web's club list has been divided
into 4 parts so the transfer time shouldn't be bad.
- shawn
Shawn Steele
Information Systems Administrator
Association of Brewers (303) 447-0816 x 118 (voice)
736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 (fax)
PO Box 1679 shawn@aob.org (e-mail)
Boulder, CO 80306-1679 info@aob.org (aob info)
U.S.A. http://www.aob.org/aob (web)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 12:50:00 -0600 (CST)
From: "Patrick E. Humphrey 708-937-3295" <HUMPHREY.PATRICK@igate.abbott.com>
Subject: IBU Calcs./Sierra Nevada clone Q's
In HBD #1678 Frank Longmore writes about calculating IBU's:
>In the process of un-confusing myself about calculating IBU's,
>I re-stated the formula, and summarized what I've read. Here 'tis:
>----------------------------------cut here-----------------------
>CALCULATING INTERNATIONAL BITTERING UNITS (IBU'S)
> (%Utilization) x (%Alpha Acid) x (Weight of Hops in Ounces) x .75
>IBU = ----------------------------------------------------------
> (Volume of Wort in gallons) x (Gravity Adjustment) )
Forgive my naivety, I only have 5 batches under my belt, but how can a
partial/extract brewer use the above formula to determine the % utilization
of the syrup used? Should I even try? Do we assume that their
(the manufacturers) extract efficiency is "x"% by default?
Would any utilization percentage of the specialty grains come into play and
how can I determine that?
***********
On with another question...
I recently brewed Tony Babinec's Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone from the
Cat's Meow (vers. 2). Tony helped me convert the recipe to a partial
extract formulation. Here it is:
6.6# light unhopped malt extract
1/2# Cara-pils
1/2# caramel
1 oz. Perles (boil) 8.5 alpha
1/2 oz. Cascade 4.6(?) alpha (15 min. remaining)
1/2 oz. Cascade 4.6(?) alpha (5 min.)
Specialties steeped 1 hour at 155-160 deg. F (68-71 deg. C)
1 hour boil
Wyeast 1056
The %AA of the Perles is higher than Tony's recipe. His calls for 6.5%
The %AA of the Cascades were lower (his, 6.3%)
0.G. - 1.048
F. G - 1.010
Primary: 8 days
now in secondary (12 days and counting)
A taste of the primary at racking was rather bitter. Is this the style of
an American ale of this type? How long might it be before some of this
extra bitterness subsides? I like a hoppy brew but not extremely bitter.
Tony suggests that the bitterness might be due to the very late addition
of the Cascades.
Thanks Tony, for all your help!
Sorry for all the questions, just think of me as a young child wanting to
learn more about something that fascinates him.
Pat
patrick.humphrey@abbott.com
*************
Can't think of a fancy German sig... ;-)
*************
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 14:25:29 -0500
From: little@charlotte.med.nyu.edu (Skip Little)
Subject: beer judge exam
I am thinking of taking the judge exam to become a certified beer judge. I
do not know the format of the exam or anything about it, I would appreciate
any info via private email is fine. TIA
Slainte,
Skip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 06:10:04 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <ddraper@laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Subject: SUDS 4.0 now at Stanford
Dear Friends, the SUDS program release 4.0 is now safely ensconced at the
homebrew archive site. As usual, ftp to ftp.stanford.edu, and look in
directory pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/programs/sudsw, the filename is
sudw40.exe. Don't forget to set to binary before transferring!
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
- --
"Life is short; grain is cheap." ---Rich Lenihan
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109
Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper@mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428
....I'm not from here, I just live here....
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 16:03:54 -0500 (EST)
From: BVICKERY@lakers.lssu.edu
Subject: Getting Started
I am interested in starting homebrewing. At home there is a brew store
nearbye so ingredients should not be a problem. What the problem is I
would like to know of a "starter-set" that is reliable and not overly
expensive.
Thank you for all of your support.
Brian M. Vickery
Fish and Wildlife Management Major
Lake Superior State University
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 15:28:12 -0600 (CST)
From: ALLIN1@giotto.jsc.nasa.gov
Subject: testing
test message
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 17:40:29 -0500
From: gcmowat@fox.nstn.ca (Gordon Mowat)
Subject: Septic and Bleach/ Canadian Mail Order?
On Mar 14, freigang@tcpcs2.dnet.etn.com asks about the impact of sanitizing
solutions on the bacterial activity of a septic tank.
Two factors come into play when dumping materials into your septic tank.
The first is the concentration of the bleach solution. The second is the
volume of liquid. The higher the concentration of the disinfectant or the
larger the volume of waste has an impact on the bacterial flora and the
agitation of materials in the tank. You are probably safe with Chlorine
concentrations less than 100 ppm and volumes of less than 30 gallons. You
could check with your local Health Dept. (or who else might inspect or
consult on septic systems). Failures are most ofter related to higher
flows than the system was designed for, rather than kill off of the little
beasties. Relax and have a home brew.
Now...........my question to the esteemed members!
Anyone know of a relieable, cheap etc. mailorder supply house in Canada
that has a catalogue etc. Local shops (rural Nova Scotia) do not have
fresh, reliable or cheap supplies (other than syrup kits)
Thanks in advance.
------------------------------
Date: 15 Mar 1995 15:40:21 -0600
From: "Westerman, Robert" <robert.westerman@spmail.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: bottle Cappers
I would like some suggestions as to the preferred
bottle capper (type and brand)!
I want to give one as a gift.
TIA
Robert Westerman
robert.westerman@spmail.jsc.nasa.gov
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 15:59:55 -0600
From: Dave Shaver <shaver@healthcare.com>
Subject: San Diego update
I spent nine days in San Diego recently and I thought I would update
the list (and the pub database) on what I found beer-wise.
Hops! Bistro and Brewery:
Visited four times since they were only a few blocks from my
hotel. Helpful to note that they are located on the west side of
the UTC shopping center at SE corner of Gensee and La Jolla Village Dr.
Food was outstanding three of the four times---just good on one
visit. Brew was average at best. They had a Scottish Ale that was
better than average and their Raspberry Ale was an outstanding
fruit beer. Well balanced with excellent raspberry nose and
finish. They claim to use 230 pounds of fresh, whole,
locally-grown red raspberries per batch.
Kitayama Cafe - Sorrento Valley
Turns out this is now called the Karl Strauss Brewery Gardens.
Nice location in the San Diego Tech Center. I went at night so I
did not get to enjoy the gardens, but it looked wonderfully
landscaped. Exact same menu and brew as the Old Columbia Brewery
downtown but in a better location.
Brew varied from good to better than average. Way too many lighter
beers on the menu---the stout was good, but lacked any strong
roasted flavor. Food was average.
Comments from Tom Baier <BAIER_T@SALT.PLU.EDU>: "The gardens are (5
acres?) of japanese gardens with waterfalls, koi ponds, etc. with a
brewery. Best Pils and Lagers I have had outside of Germany, and a
great place. Closed to the public on Saturdays. On Sundays, they
sometimes have live music outside. Enthusiastically recommended."
Old Columbia Brewery and Grill
Helpful to note this place is downtown on Columbia. The map I had
did not show Columbia St going all the way downtown so I wasted a
bit of time way too far north.
As noted above, exact same menu and brew Brewery Gardens. The
specific items I had on the menu here (reuben sandwich and roasted
pablano chiles) were both really good. Beer here was the same as
the Brewery Gardens: average to really good.
Comments from Frank J. Leers <fjl@dpci.sannet.gov>: "Always has a
good selection of excellent beer, good menu, somewhat pricey."
Comments from Steve Dempsey <steved@ptdcs2.intel.com>: "Second only
to Sudwerk in Davis for lagers."
St. James Bar
Changed names and is now known as Triangles. TOTAL WASTE OF TIME,
beer wise. Remove it from the list. :-) They had Builleoors and a
single random micro. Food was expensive by my standards---$18+ per
person. Nice wine selection; $5+/glass.
Pizza Nova; I don't have address or phone, but they are on the SW
corner of Gensee and La Jolla Village Dr directly across the street
from Hops!
I visited here twice, mostly because it was fast and they had good
food and brew. Three micros on tap (all very fresh) and excellent
wood-fired pizza. Good service during my visits.
Pacific Beach Brewhouse
Lucked out and ended up there on $1 beer night. All of their beer
was very good to outstanding. Their Belgian Strong was outstanding
and I fell in love---much too deeply :-)---with their Red. The Red
had lots of character, a wonderful blend of crystal malts and
Cascade hop flavor/nose. Double yummy. Thankfully I was not
driving. :-) Stout is pushed with nitrogen.
Comments from Frank J. Leers <fjl@dpci.sannet.gov>: "Skip Virgilio
is Brewer, He will be happy to talk to you if you catch him there.
The Belgian Strong Ale (GABF Gold Medal) should be on line by now.
Skip makes some of the best ales in S.D. (IMHO)"
Comments from Steve Dempsey <steved@ptdcs2.intel.com>:
"Particularly good specialty beers. Good pizzas."
San Diego Brewing
I did not visit here.
Comments from Tom Baier <BAIER_T@SALT.PLU.EDU>: "It is located out
by Jack Murphy stadium in a strip mall. Don't be fooled by the
outside. Great selection of beers, and the brewer is a total beer
stud. When I was there, he had two of his beers...on cask. And
several others on draught. Unpretentious, friendly, good beer.
Go."
Comments from Frank J. Leers <fjl@dpci.sannet.gov>: "Brew their
own, and have 50+ micro brews on tap from around the world. Good
food, reasonably priced, a LOT of beer to choose from.
Pizza Port:
I did not visit here.
Comments from Frank J. Leers <fjl@dpci.sannet.gov>: "REAL casual,
surfer type place, excellent pizza, great ales."
Comments from Steve Dempsey <steved@ptdcs2.intel.com>: "First
brewpub to serve stout on nitrogen tap. It's really an average
small sports bar that happens to brew a few beers. Hardly worth a
special trip. If you have some other reason to go north, like
going up to the wild animal park, Solana Beach is on the way and
this would be a reasonable place to stop for a beer."
Brewski's Gas Lamp Pub
I did not visit here.
Comments from Frank J. Leers <fjl@dpci.sannet.gov>: "(now RJ's
Riptide brewery) - Downtown. More upscale, the ales are nice.
Copper brewhouse behind the bar..."
Comments from Steve Dempsey <steved@ptdcs2.intel.com>: "Under new
name and ownership, same address. Better beers, good food"
La Jolla Brewing Co.
I did not visit here.
Comments from Frank J. Leers <fjl@dpci.sannet.gov>: " In famous
downtown La Jolla, beers are just o.k. Pub fare - food is good."
I look forward to another visit when I can hit up the remaining
brewpubs. When you visit remote locations (or something new opens
locally) don't forget to send updates like this to the publist
maintainer, John R. Mellby <jmellby@m2.dseg.ti.com>.
/\ Dave Shaver
\\ Plano, TX
\/ Internet: shaver@healthcare.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 17:34 -0500 (EST)
From: anthony_meehan@Merck.Com (Anthony Meehan)
Subject: all malt priming
I primed my last several batches with DME instead of sugar. These have
varied between belgian style ales to pils, w/ alcohol contents anywhere
between 4 and 6% (right where they're supposed to be), and one was a whole
grain deal. However in comparison to sugar primed bottles, it has been
taking much longer to carbonate, is less carbonated, and the beer is
slightly sweeter even after four months of conditioning. Someone is sleeping
on the job! BTW- The primary fermentations have all been very clean and
complete. The question is... I also use polyclar. Could the polyclar be
settling the yeast out of action? permanently?
Greg Graboski
c/o Tony Meehan
meehan@merck.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 17:42:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: SCHEIDELRICK@bvc.edu
Subject: HI
Could you please send me some good recipes.Thanks.
------------------------------
From: ulick@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie
id m0rp3aB-0006OzC; Thu, 16 Mar 95 00:38 GMT
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 00:38:25 +0000
From: Ulick Stafford <ulick@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie>
Subject: hbd subscribers in Ireland
To: homebrew <homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com>
Cc: ulick.stafford@nd.edu
Message-Id: <Pine.3.89.9503160028.A98-0100000@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Just a quick request for any hbd readers in Ireland to contact me to
discuss homebrewing questions relating to Ireland, such as suppliers, etc.
_____________________________________________________________________________
'There was a master come unto the earth, | Dr. Ulick Stafford,
born in the holy land of Indiana, | Chemical Consultancy,
in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.| Ballyhurst, Taghmon, Co. Wexford
http://www.nd.edu:80/~ulick/ | ulick@chemcon.internet-eireann.ie
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 20:50:12 -0500
From: cstrick@iu.net (Chris Strickland)
Subject: Long Ferments
I have a ferment that's been going on for three weeks now. The bubbles are
about once every 10 - 15 seconds. I'm using the same recipe I normally use
with 1 lb less of grain. About 5.07lbs of Klages, 2.5 lbs of British and 1
lb of 60lb Crystal malt. I'm using a london ale yeast. Normally my
ferments are completed in about 10 days.
- --------------
Chris Strickland
cstrick@iu.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 21:00:45 -0500 (EST)
From: ADNEYK@delphi.com
Subject: Microbrews in Utah
In response to a recent HBD query (sorry, author unknown):
Salt Lake City has Squatter's Brewery @ 147 W Broadway.
Fuggles @ 367 W 200 South
Salt Lake Brewing Co. @ 375 W 200 South and
Red Rock Brewing Co. @ 254 S 200 West.
There's also a brewery in Park City but I don't know the name.
ken
adneyk@delphi.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 18:25:58 +0800
From: bjones@bdt.com (Bob Jones)
Subject: Beer Engines
>On the subject of Beer Engines, some people are confused about what constitutes
>a Beer Engine. The pseudo beer engine in Zymurgy is simply a sprinkler
>faucet. It is missing the pump necessary to be a true Beer Engine.
>I am looking to buy or build the entire pump & tap assembly.
>
>Thanks,
>Mark Alston
>
Well Mike your are right about people being "confused" about what a beer
engine is. A true beer engine is indeed a hand pump, but its only function
is to move the beer from the keg to the tap and on into the glass. It must
do this with enough pressure to not only move the beer but with enough
velocity to create or generate the head via the sparkler on the end of the
faucet.
The pseudo beer engine "achives" the same thing. In this case it is the CO2
that replaces the pump. If the gas pressure is kept low enough there won't
be any noticable uptake in carbonation. The upside to this gadget is you are
left with about $300-400 more money. If you are looking for the cool look of
a real english beer engine, by all means open you pocket book and let'er rip.
Bob Jones
bjones@bdt.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 19:58:23 -0700
From: flemingk@usa.net (Kirk R Fleming)
Subject: Bizarre RIMS Concepts
I've been toying with the following idea for indirectly heating and
controlling RIMS mash temperatures...feedback is hereby solicited:
Design Goals:
1. Provide a completely controlled heating system with enough reserve
reserve capacity to both maintain mash temperature at a given setting,
AND to perform the temperature step boosts as rapidly as possible.
2. Isolate the mash from any heating elements to allow use of elements
having high energy density and/or less-than-ideal element materials
(non-stainless, coated, etc.).
Operational Concept:
Pump the wort through a heat exchanger--imagine a coil in a can of glycol.
Heat the glycol directly with the electric element of your choice.
Monitor both the mash temperature going into and leaving the heat
exchanger, AND monitor the glycol temperature as well. Write the control
law for the system to guarantee glycol temp never gets boosted high enough
to overshoot on mash temp, but so it CAN be taken above desired mash
temperature minimize the time required to make mash temperature boosts.
IOW, "superheat" the glycol to the maximum degree possible without the
outlet mash temp going over the target temp, and shut the heating unit
down early enough so the remaining cool wort will take sufficient energy
out of the glycol to lower its temperature to mash target temp.
[NOTE: By "superheating" I don't mean heating the glycol above its normal
BP..I mean heating the glycol above the target *mash* temp.]
This last idea could require the control system know how much wort was
left in the tun at what temperature in order to know when to shut down
the heating element. But...I *think* the control only needs to know the
1st and 2nd time derivatives of the incoming wort temp. (People who
actually *know* something about controls, please help out)
But, even if this operational mode were not allowed and the glycol
was never permitted to get above target mash temp, the heat xchnger
concept still has some potential advantages:
1) it prevents direct contact between the wort and the heating element,
guaranteeing no-scorch, no leaks at the element, and allowing use of
high heat density low-cost elements to get steep gradients
2) may provide a more stable temperature (the thermal mass of the glycol)
requiring fewer control inputs (advantage: manual control of the heater
may be feasible as a backup mode of operation)
If "superheating" of the glycol (or other working fluid) IS workable, then
the real advantage would be the use of two heaters in the glycol--a
big primary heater for fast temperature boosts, and a 2ndary control heater
for constant-temperature maintenance. No need to manually add auxilliary
direct-fire heat or to endure long temperature boosts. Also, given a good
exchanger design with lots of capacity, a greater volume of wort could be
elevated in a given time, it seems.
Disadvantages are pretty easy to find...anyone see any advantages at all?
Any big holes? This is brainstorming now, so compliance with conservation
laws is not all that mandatory...and poorly thought-out challenges are as
welcome as any. :)
Kirk R Fleming
Patriot, Beer Punk
Colorado Springs CO
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 22:11:45 EST
From: "ANDY..PBX 5152" <copea@kenyon.edu>
Subject: Hops: which method works?
Hello everybody,
This might be an easy question for the experienced brewers on this
list. I'm only on my third batch, so I can plead ignorance.
Question:
If I want to get a stronger hop flavor (I'm using whole hops) would
boiling the bittering hops (Northern Brewer in this case) for a longer
period of time do it? Or would using more hops but brewing for the
same time be the best way to do it? Could it be a combination of
both? I really like the Pale Ale I made recently and would like to
improve upon it by getting an even bigger hop bite in it.
Any advice you might have would be appreciated. Please respond to
the list as other novices might benefit from this type of message.
Thank you all in advance....
Andrew
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1681, 03/16/95
*************************************
-------
