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HOMEBREW Digest #1682
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/03/17 PST
HOMEBREW Digest #1682 Fri 17 March 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Thanks (djfitzg)
RE: Sierra Clone Q's/More Hop flavor (david lawrence shea)
Chocolate Stout. (Steve Matkoski)
Glassware counterflow chiller/condensor (Robert Schultz)
Boston Beer Co. Hops (jws)
polyclar & oxidation questions ("Keith Royster")
Gypsum use in Extract Brewing (DBURKE)
RE: IBU calculations for extract brews (uswlsrap)
patrick humphrey's snpa clone ("Babinec, Tony")
Oregon brewers' festival dates? (Greg Fisk)
Re: Sierra Nevada Clone Q's (Eric Schauber)
Yeast metabolism and starters... (" Patrick G. Babcock")
Re: Utah Beer, HBD #1680 (Kent Harrison)
Fruit Juice Use (Matthew Sever)
$0.30 Beer Engine (Jeff Renner)
Septic and other tanks (michael j dix)
Gott Valve Modification ("Hale, John")
pitch timing/hop flavour (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
SUDS for Windows Version 4.0 Available (Bobby Richardson)
RE; sanitizer disposal (rcorson)
growing hops ("Charles S. Jackson")
Treacle & Molasses (Mike Lemons)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 07:19:47 EST
From: djfitzg@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Thanks
To all who responded to my requests on where to buy a good cooker, thanks.
I did finish up at Sams Club and found King Kooker mod 92pk very resonable.
On a related issue, I currently do full boils in a 17 gallon stainless, stock
pot, I would like to install a valve of some kind about a 1/2 inch from the
bottom, I am a little nervous about drilling a hole in this pot, so I plan
on taking it to a local metal fabrication shop. I'd appreciate any advise
on what type of valve to install, the valve will be exposed to some very high
temps during long full boils.
And to you folks in colorado, a friend of mine returned with some nice
samples, thanks for the list of brepubs in Vail, I hope you all appreciate
the fine brews you have as much as I did.
Dan FitzGerald
djfitzg@vnet.ibm.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 08:05:05 -0500 (EST)
From: david lawrence shea <dshea@ucs.indiana.edu>
Subject: RE: Sierra Clone Q's/More Hop flavor
Patrick was asking about his SNPA clone:
I have brewed that same recipe, your conversion looks good. Sierra
Nevada uses a hopback to get more flavor however. What I am planning to
do next time I brew this is dry hop with an ounce or a bit more of
cascade hops. If you have racked your beer to a secondary, throw in an
ounce of cascades hops for a week or two, pellets or leaf. Believe me,
you will love the results. Since I have started dry hopping, my last
three or four pale ales have tasted like microbrew quality or better. It
seemed to be the missing piece in my quest for brewing fantastic beer.
Andrew asked about getting more hop flavor:
Boiling your hops longer will not give you more hop flavor. You need to
increase the amount of finishing hops you are using (i.e. hop additions
in the last 10-15 minutes). I tend to use at least an ounce of finishing
hops with any pale ale recipe, although that is personal taste. If you
want a great hop flavor, again I would recommend dry hopping. Some
people have said dry hopping contributes to aroma only, but to me, it
significantly affects flavor also.
Hope this helps.
David L. Shea
Indiana University
dshea@ucs.indiana.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 08:36:00 -0500
From: sematkos@mailbox.syr.edu (Steve Matkoski)
Subject: Chocolate Stout.
Hi,
I made a chocolate imperial stout a little while back, I dont have the recipe
on hand but I used around 12 lbs of malt (8lbs canned extract, 4lbs DME, and
I made a tea with several lbs of grain). To all this I added 1 square of bakers
unsweetened chocolate. It fermented nicely and I had it in the secondary for
about 10 days. I bottled and everything went fine. Now your thinking, so why
are you telling us all this? Well the stout has been in the bottle for 2 weeks
and I opened one last night, carbonation was good, head retention good, but
it tasted like I was eating a candy bar, will thie chocolate flavor mellow w/
age? I think the beer is very good, nice hoppy aroma, good bitter finish,
except for the sweetness. Did I use too much chocolate? The recipe I went by
said to use two squares. Any info accepted!
-steve.
Steven E. Matkoski
sematkos@syr.edu
Syracuse University
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 07:59:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz@usask.ca>
Subject: Glassware counterflow chiller/condensor
I have been given a glass (labware?) counterflow lab condensor (not sure
of the true lab name).
Anyway, this device is a glass tube spiralled inside a larger sealed
glass tube with ports at each extreme. I thought that it would make a good
counterflow heat exchanger (as that is really what it is).
Does anyone out there use one of these condensors? And if yes, what
kind of chilling efficiencies are you obtaining (at what flow rates)?
The related question is that I have an imersion chiller that works well
(drops 10 gal of boiling wort to pitching in 15-20 min). What happens to the
IBU level if I switch to the counterflow device and leave the decreasing 10 gal
sitting at boiling temp?
Looks like a case where one may want to use both chillers????
Cheers,
Rob.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 09:01:20 EST
From: jws@tas.inh.att.com
Subject: Boston Beer Co. Hops
(This is my first post, so please be patient...)
Tom Clifton posted yesterday about getting hops from the Boston
Beer Company by sending in $12. I now feel like I got away with
something - I got mine for free. I read about a free offer
somewhere(?), sent in a request, and got the hops packet mailed
to me. (And NO Beer-Related junk mail (yet).)
My question is this: This hop pellet package is BIG. More than
I can use in a couple of months. What is the best way to store
these hops? I was going to separate into batch-size packages and
freeze, but I'm worried that might damage the oils/resins/whatever.
Any help/opinions would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!
FYI: My wife and I have brewed 10 batches (all extract - and with
2 small kids we'll keep it that way). I have been reading and
enjoying and learning from the Digest for a month or so now.
John W. Sawyer
john.w.sawyer@att.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 09:48:05 EST
From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471@mro.ehnr.state.nc.us>
Subject: polyclar & oxidation questions
Hello fellow homebrewers! I've got a couple of questions that I
would appreciate any help on. The first is, I dry-hopped a 5 gal
batch recently and wanted to add polyclar to it. I left the hops in
for about 5 days, then I racked the beer to a second carboy before I
added the polyclar. I did this because I wasn't sure if the hops and
muslin bag would interfere with (attract) the polyclar. Is this a
valid concern?
Second, I couldn't find any weight to hold the bag of hops under
during dry-hopping, so I simply inverted my racking cane through the
rubber stopper and used the long end, now inside the carboy, to hold
the bag down. Since fermentation was not complete yet, I had to put
a small hole in the racking cane below the stopper (inside the
carboy) so that CO2 could escape through the cane. When it came time
to rack to the second carboy for the polyclar addition, I simply
tried to seal the hole in the cane with tape (which I know now is a
mistake). During the siphon the beer loosend the tape. When the
beer dropped below the level of the hole, air was sucked in through
the hole (Venturi effect) which greatly aerated a portion of my beer
(I'm estimating about 1/2 gal at most, hopefully less) before I could
stop the siphon. I was horrified! My question is, how significantly
will this areated beer effect the taste of the 5 gallon batch.
Sorry for the long post and thanks for any help.
Keith Royster
N1EA471@MRO.EHNR.STATE.NC.US
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 09:21:02 -0600
From: DBURKE@smtpgate.tnrcc.texas.gov
Subject: Gypsum use in Extract Brewing
I recently tried the "Toad Spit Stout" recipe from
TNCJOHB, and I'm kinda curious if anyone else has
had experience in using Gypsum as a water additive in
extract brews.
Reading the recipe, I got to the line that says:
8 tsp gypsum, and I thought, cripes, that seems like a
lot. Still, I have heard good things about this recipe,
and I am using Reverse Osmosis water to begin with, so
my mineral content is negligible.
I went ahead and chucked in my 8 tsp, and got everything
put to sleep in the fermenter. Then, reading Miller's
book that evening, I found where he says that too much
gypsum (i.e. over approx 1 tsp in five gallons) can
contribute to harshness and a laxative effect (Oh great,
we've already got the farts from the live yeast; now
we're gonna have the runs, too.)
After tasting the gravity sample in about a week, he's
right. It is bitter-harsh-chemical-tasting nasty!
This isn't bitter like an ESB, it's bitter like battery
acid! Hop rate was only about 15-18 HBU, not out of
line for a dry stout IMHO.
Anyone else had any experience with this kind of problem?
Thanks,
Dan
dburke@smtpgate.tnrcc.texas.gov
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 10:47:13 EST
From: uswlsrap@ibmmail.com
Subject: RE: IBU calculations for extract brews
Patrick Humphrey asks how he can use the IBU formula for his extract brews:
I assume that your concern about doing the calculation for extract brews is (or
should be) how to adjust for a concentrated boil, not that it is extract per
se. You should be able to use your favourite set of utilisation numbers as
long as you apply a correction for gravity (in the denominator of the formula).
Calculate your gravity based on your awareness of points per pound per gallon
for the extract being used. ZYMURGY had an article with some values for a
handful of different extracts, but, unfortunately, most were for "kit" extracts
rather than plain extracts. But any calculation you do here is going to be an
approximation anyway, so don't worry too much. Assume, roughly, mid 30s for a
liquid extract and low 40s for DME and calculate (or you could just measure it)
the approximate specific gravity of your concentrated boil. Use that gravity
(again, of the boil volume, not the final batch size) to calculate the
correction.
Alternately, I believe Charlie's most recent book has a little table suggesting
utilisation figures (at different boil times) for different gravities based on
number of pounds of extract per gallon of water. Then just use those U% numbers
and skip the gravity correction.
Hope that works for you.
Now go have a beer,
Bob Paolino / Disoriented in Badgerspace / uswlsrap@ibmmail.com
- ---THE INTERNET: Hardwiring the neurons of the global brain:---
One geek at a time....
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 10:01:00 cst
From: "Babinec, Tony" <tony@spss.com>
Subject: patrick humphrey's snpa clone
I'm always astounded when I hear from someone on
Internet about a recipe posted to HBD ;-). Patrick
did an extract plus specialty grain version of
an snpa recipe posted awhile ago and now found
in cat's meow.
Here's Patrick's recipe:
6.6# light unhopped malt extract
1/2# Cara-pils
1/2# caramel
1 oz. Perles (boil) 8.5 alpha
1/2 oz. Cascade 4.6(?) alpha (15 min. remaining)
1/2 oz. Cascade 4.6(?) alpha (5 min.)
Specialties steeped 1 hour at 155-160 deg. F (68-71 deg. C)
1 hour boil
Wyeast 1056
Offline, Patrick reported that he found the beer to be "bitter" on
racking. I wondered what the source of the perceived bitterness
might be. The Perle addition should contribute more or less 30 IBUs
of clean bitterness. The Cascades will only contribute to bitterness in a
minor way, but ought to contribute their signature flavor and aroma.
So, the total bitterness of the beer ought to be in the medium to high
range. Note that the AHA American Pale Ale style guidelines call
for high hop bitterness. Also, I think SNPA weighs in at about 32-36 IBUs.
In the end, I don't see that the beer Patrick brewed could be over-
bitter, and am wondering what he's tasting in the beer. In any
event, the flavors should soften a bit with time. The challenge in
an SNPA clone is balancing the hopping with that elusive
delightful malt sweetness. Hopefully, the specialty grains help
in this regard.
Cheers,
Tony Babinec
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 09:40:37 -0700 (MST)
From: Greg Fisk <gregf@corona.med.utah.edu>
Subject: Oregon brewers' festival dates?
I'm planning a vacation in Or. this Aug. and would like to attend the
Oregon brewers festival. If anyone knows the dates for this year's
festival please let me know by e-mail
TIA, Greg
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 10:00:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Schauber <schaubee@ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: Re: Sierra Nevada Clone Q's
In HBD #1681 (March 16, 1995)
> Patrick E. Humphrey 708-937-3295" <HUMPHREY.PATRICK@igate.abbott.com>
> wrote:
> A taste of the primary at racking was rather bitter. Is this the style of
> an American ale of this type? How long might it be before some of this
> extra bitterness subsides? I like a hoppy brew but not extremely bitter.
> Tony suggests that the bitterness might be due to the very late addition
> of the Cascades.
I, too, have only got a few batches under my belt, but I've noticed
that the perceived bitterness before bottling is often quite a bit less
than after the beer has been in the bottle even for a short time (1
week). I'm not sure if this is an actual mellowing of the bittering
compounds or simply some masking effect of refrigeration and
carbonation.
I wouldn't worry about changing the recipe until after
you've sampled the finished product.
Eric Schauber
schaubee@ucs.orst.edu
The proof of the beer is in the drinking.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 13:11:30 EST
From: " Patrick G. Babcock" <usfmchql@ibmmail.com>
Subject: Yeast metabolism and starters...
*** Resending note of 03/16/95 11:03
* Man's mind, stretched by a new idea, never goes back to its *
* original dimension. - Oliver Wendell Holmes *
Subject: Yeast metabolism and starters...
I'm a little confused by the thread on what stage of yeast metabolism is
'ideal' for pitching:
If you let yeast fall prior to pitching, they have maximum glycogen. If you
pitch at high krauesen, they have minimum glycogen. If you let yeast fall,
then add more wort, then pitch at high krauesen, you still have low glycogen
because in respiration prior to dining on the sugars, the yeast has glycogen
appetizers. I think that pretty much sums up the current exchange, yes?
Ok. That said, I have to ask: So what's the point??? By the latter statement,
no matter what you do, the yeast is going to deplete its glycogen stores prior
to fermenting the sugars. What difference does it make whether they gobble
their glycogens in a flask, or in your wort? If they're already munching on
the glycogens when you pitch them, won't this reduce the lag time in the
fermenter? Appetizers out of the way and all? Aren't starters used to increase
the number of yeast guys rather than their glycogen stores?
See what I mean? Is there someone out there who actually *knows* what's going
on? No offense to the imminent BJCP judges discussing this, but you're *not*
biologists, and our brewing literature and legend are fraught with opinion,
supposition, half-truths, and outright lies. Is there a (micro)biologist in
the house?
Head spinning in Detroit,
Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | 'Let a good beer be the exclamation
usfmchql@ibmmail.com | point at the end of your day as
(313)33-73657 (V) | every sentence requires proper
(313)59-42328 (F) | punctuation.' ;-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 11:39:47 -0700 (MST)
From: Kent Harrison <Kent.Harrison@m.cc.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: Utah Beer, HBD #1680
On Wed, 15 Mar 1995, A. Freigang wrote:
> On a totally unrelated subject, I am taking a trip to Park City, Utah the
> end of the month and want to know if it is possible to find any good local
> brew and/or pubs in the area.
When you're in Park City, go up to the north (uphill) end of Main Street
and visit the Wasatch BrewPub - OK beer, good food.
If you travel down to SLC, visit Squatter's on 147 W 3rd South - very
good beer, excellent food. Also try the Lazy Moon Pub in Exchange Place.
All these beers, by law, are 3.2% alchohol by weight. For anything
stronger, buy yourself a temporary membership to a private club or go to
a state-owned liquor store (and be prepared to pay out the nose!)
Out here in Zion, we like to say, "Utah may be a desert, but it ain't dry."
You just need to get some intel on all the secrets!
Have Fun,
kbh
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 14:15:19 -0500
From: Matthew Sever <msever@phc.com>
Subject: Fruit Juice Use
I would like to thank those who responded to my question about using
cranberry juice or concentrate for brewing. Noone told me that they
had had a negative experience with it so there didn't seem to be a
reason not to do it, except for that it's not terribly authentic.
There were a few things to look out for though- one is to avoid those
with preservatives, and second is if there is corn syrup in the mix,
don't add any corn sugar at any other time (i.e. priming).
I did get a recipe or two- one for a Ginger Mead (adapted from
TNCJOHB) and another for a wine-style brew. I'll forward them upon
request.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 15:15:56 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: $0.30 Beer Engine
Just get a 10 cc oral syringe. Drugstores often give them away for
squirting medicine into an infant's mouth. Real ale is low carbonation,
just over saturation of CO2. If you keep top pressure low enough for
this, you get no head because the beer flows too slowly to create the
turbulence that a real beer engine produces, especially through a
sparkler, which is an adjustably restricted orifice. So here's what I
do. I keep carbonation a little high for style, then use a syringe (no
needle) and suck up ~10 cc of beer, then shoot it back with a quick push
of the plunger. I keep the tip above the surface of the beer, thereby
introducing some air, too. Some authorities believe that dissolved air
is responsible for some of the qualities of real ale. This produces the
same swirling, milky mass of tiny bubbles as a beer engine. They soon
settle into a creamy, long lasting head and a creamy mothfeel, due to
the low carbonation. If the beer is too carbonated (from continued
fermentation of residual dextrins or bottled ale), two shots may be
necessary, and you need to have extra head space in the glass. In this
case, I top up the pint after the head has subsided a bit. If the beer
is too cold, I'll sometimes microwave a quarter glass, then fill it up
the rest of the way. There are waiters in town who are used to me
asking to have my ale microwaved, and then seeing me stir it with a
fork, since I don't usually travel with my syringe.
This is not to be confused with prohibition "needle beer," where an
ounce or so of grain alcohol was squirted into a glass of near beer in
speakeasies, using a syringe with needle.
******
Long time readers of HBD will perhaps notice that I didn't preface my
post with the usual
(From *Jeff* Renner)
but rather have my own name in the "From" line instead of my wife,
Nancy's. I'm still using her account, but software change has allowed
me to insert my name. In the past, my procedure led to Dan McConnell's
saying on net that I thought I was my wife, to which Dave Draper
responded that I thought I was my wife's computer. Now I've convinced
it that I am! Dave says he can't get used to seeing "From: Jeff
Renner." He says it reminds him of Rocky Raccoon: "But everyone knew
her as Nancy." :-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 12:27:42 "PST
From: michael j dix <mdix@dcssc.sj.hp.com>
Subject: Septic and other tanks
Growing up, our 1954 model house just outside Chicago had a septic tank,
to which the kitchen and bathroom drains were connected, and a small
"non-septic" tank, to which the laundry drains were connected. This kept
the large volume of wash water from diluting the critters in the septic
tank, as well as any harmful effect of bleach, etc.
Septic tank owners should check if their laundry drains into such a separate
tank. It is then probably safe to dump bleachy water into the laundry drain.
Mike Dix
------------------------------
Date: 16 Mar 1995 14:25:26 -0600
From: "Hale, John" <dcm1!gmserver.PizzaHut.COM!Hale#m#_John@uunet.uu.net>
Subject: Gott Valve Modification
Several months ago someone posted a method of altering the existing Gott
drain valve rather than removing it. The idea was that the existing valve
is leak-free and fits the hole, so modify it rather than remove it.
I'm preping my 10 gal Gott for use with Phil's Phalse Bottom and can't recall
the procedure. Does anyone recall the details?
Thanks
John Hale
Wichita, KS
jhale@pizzahut.com
------------------------------
Date: 16 Mar 95 14:53:00 -0600
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: pitch timing/hop flavour
Tim writes:
> RE the latest thread concerning the optimum time to pitch yeast, Jim
> wrote:
> >"The yeast pitched should be cells in the stationary phase, which
> >have the maximum content of reserve polysaccharide glycogen."
and:
> If I follow the above logic
> correctly, it suggests the optimum time to pitch is after the yeast
> has fallen. It would also seem to suggest that it is not such a good
> idea to add fresh wort to a starter (to activate the yeast) before
> pitching.
You understand correctly, but you don't have to wait for all the yeast to
settle (unless you need or want to pour off the spent wort) -- you can use
the starter when the yeast has begun to decrease in activity. You see,
this is when they are beginning to run out of sugar and thus are carbo-loading
for a long sleep. Jim was right that I left out the part that oxygen plays
in my original post. It's going to take a long time to correct the common
knowledge on pitch timing -- getting a summary of this thread into the yeast
FAQ would be a good start.
and:
> Would the original gravity of the wort have any bearing on this
> argument? I've got a starter going for a trippel, and I'd like to try
> this out...oh-I suppose the argument holds for building starters too?
There are two schools of thought here. One is that you should use a starter
gravity that is similar to the wort for which you plan to use it. The other
is that you should use a low-gravity (1.020) starter so as to not stress the
yeast during the fermentation of the starter. Both ways have merit. It's
kind of a question of whether you want to "stress" the yeast (with a high-
gravity environment) in the starter or in the main wort. If I had to choose,
I would have to say it makes more sense to stress them in the starter, but
I usually use a 1.030 starter wort for everything from my 1.035 Ordinary
Bitters to my 1.070 IPAs.
There is a hybrid solution, though. It is incremental feeding. You start
with a low-gravity starter and then feed it several times with increasing
gravity feedings. I would say that this is the optimal method and it's
what I do for the really, really high-gravity beers (e.g. an 1.100 Barleywine
or 1.120 Imperial Stout). Again, ideally, you would wait for the yeast to
build up high glycogen levels before each feeding.
***
Andrew writes:
>If I want to get a stronger hop flavor (I'm using whole hops) would
>boiling the bittering hops (Northern Brewer in this case) for a longer
>period of time do it? Or would using more hops but brewing for the
>same time be the best way to do it? Could it be a combination of
>both? I really like the Pale Ale I made recently and would like to
>improve upon it by getting an even bigger hop bite in it.
Well, it depends what you mean by hop "bite." If you mean bitterness,
then boiling longer may increase the bitterness of your beer, but how
much more depends on how long you are boiling now. Hop "flavour" is
different from basic bitterness. Mind you all this is along a continuum,
but for the most part:
1) short boils (let's say 0 to 5 minutes) add some aroma, a little flavour
and virtually no bitterness (these are usually called finishing hops),
2) medium-length boils (let's say 15 to 20 minutes) add virtually no aroma,
some flavour and a little bitterness (these are usually called flavour hops),
and
3) long boils (usually 45,60,90 minutes or longer) add no aroma, little
flavour and this is where most of your bitterness comes from (these are
usually called bittering, boiling, kettle or copper hops).
I boil my flavour hops 15 minutes and my bittering hops 60 minutes.
What I generally do is dryhop (no bitterness added) if the style calls for
aroma, so I do not add any finishing hops. If the style does *not* call for
hop flavour, then it's easy: I use Rager's formulas (+10% more for the hop bag)
for a 60 minute boil and that's it. If the style *does* call for hop flavour,
then I will subtract 5 or 10 IBUs from my total target and use Rager's formulas
(+10%) twice: once for the flavour hops and then once again for the bittering
hops.
Incidentally, I feel that different hops *do* taste different even if boiled
for 60 minutes and there is a big difference between the flavours of different
hops. For example, to get a feeling for Cascade hop flavour try Anchor
Liberty Ale or Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 21:25:08 -0500 (EST)
From: bobbyr@mindspring.com (Bobby Richardson)
Subject: SUDS for Windows Version 4.0 Available
The new version of SUDS for Microsoft Windows, version 4.0, is
available for ftp from the ftp.stanford.edu. It can be found in the
/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/programs/sudsw/ directory and is named
sudw40.exe. There is also an encoded version named sudw40.exe.uu.Z.
For your browsing convenience, the url is
ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/programs/sudsw/sudw40.exe
Following is a quote from the author's readme files and email
announcements to registered users:
This is the fourth major release of SUDS for Microsoft Windows 4.0
and involved almost a total rewrite of the DOS version. The two
versions are extremely similar and share the same file structures.
You can move easily between both versions and can even keep both in
the same directory if you wish!
SUDSW includes the following features:
o DBASE III compatible recipe and log files which can be browsed by
any utility capable of viewing DBASE III file formats.
o Comprehensive online help for program functions and general
brewing information.
o Multi-windowing editor featuring undo, full cut and paste
capability between windows, mouse support and Windows clipboard
import/export.
o Ability to import and export standard ASCII text files to and from
the SUDS recipe database allowing recipes to be shared with SUDS and
non-SUDS brewers.
o Ability to import and export formatted SUDS SXF-files allowing you
to share your recipes easily with other SUDS and SUDSW users.
o Recipe and log printing and reporting capabilities.
o Recipe formulation feature to automatically calculate recipes
based on the raw materials you enter.
o Water temperature and usage routines for accurate all-grain
mashing.
o Ability to search recipes by category, alcohol content, gravities
and/or by text contents.
o Ability to enter judging values and competition notes for log
entries.
o Categorization of recipes by type (Pale Ale, Stout, etc.) and
ability to define your own recipe styles.
o Built-in pop-up calculator to help with calculations.
o Built-in access to Windows Calendar utility.
o Hop-IBU spreadsheet to calculate hop IBUs for beer batches.
New for release 4.0:
o Added robust water temperature and usage calculations to the
recipe formulator.
o Fixed problems in page alignment when printing.
o Added spin buttons to date fields for easier data entry.
o Added user-editable hop utilization tables allowing customization
of IBU calculation methods in SUDSW.
o Removed label routine from program
o Updated AHA style guidelines for 1995.
NOTE - For IBU calculations, SUDSW now defaults to using the Jackie
Rager figures from Zymurgy 1990 which are also similar to the
Papazian figures. Provided with the release are several batch files
to install different methods of IBU calculation. Running any of
these from the DOS prompt in your SUDS directory will install the
corresponding method of IBU calculation. They are:
RAGER.BAT - Install Jackie Rager figures (similar to Papazian)
GARETZ.BAT - Install figures used by Mark Garetz in Using Hops
book. TINSETH.BAT - Use figures published recently by Glenn Tinseth.
You can also edit the hop utilization tables yourself (see online
help for details).
The current registration fee for SUDSW 4.0 is $20.
As a bonus for registering, I will send you free of charge the
following utilities:
o SUDSCM - Add the ENTIRE Cat's Meow II file to your SUDS database
This will add 415 recipes of all styles!
o IBUCALC - Command line hop IBU calculator. Great for determining
desired hopping!
o CATMEO2 - The Internet Cat's Meow II file for use with SUDSCM
End quote(s)
Bobby Richardson
bobbyr@mindspring.com
Atlanta, Georgia USA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 22:56:33 -0500
From: rcorson@acs.bu.edu
Subject: RE; sanitizer disposal
Why not reuse your 5 gallons of sanitizer instead of flooding the septic
system with each batch brewed? I'm sure a bleach or iodine solution will
be effective for more than one use, hence cutting back on your water useage,
bleach useage, and flooding the septic tank or sewer.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 95 23:13:32 CST
From: "Charles S. Jackson" <sjackson@ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil>
Subject: growing hops
Well as we finalize the move to SC I was mentioning to the S.O. that it
might be nice to grow some hops. I went into the beauty and potential privacy
that the vines could provide but try as I might I just couldn't seem to make
her belive that it was a good idea. Enter this months issue of "Carolina
Gardener" - a 2 page article on the virtues of growing hops for non-brewing
uses and it went on to say that if you brewed..."all the better". Well the
spouse did an immediate 180 and now *we* have plans to grow some hops at the
new homestead. So for those having difficulty in selling the idea of growing
some "of those massive runaway vines" may I suggest the April issue of Carolina
Gardener. (No affiliatiion except I pay for my wifes subscription)
Steve
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brewing beer is far more exciting when it is both a hobby AND a felony!
The Alabama Outlaw
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 21:51:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Lemons <mikel@cts.com>
Subject: Treacle & Molasses
I was talking to the guy who won first place at the state fair in the
dark ale catagory. His beer was basically a pale ale with brown sugar
and molasses added. It tasted pretty good.
I want to make something similar with 6 lb of light 2-row extract. I
have this 1 lb. can (a little more than 1 cup) of Lyle's Black Treacle.
I thought I would eliminate the middle man and use all treacle in place
of brown sugar. How much should I use? The whole can? Terry Foster,
in his Porter book, warns that the sugar in molasses will make the beer
taste thinner, so should I compensate with a little crystal malt?
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1682, 03/17/95
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