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HOMEBREW Digest #1679
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1995/03/14 PST
HOMEBREW Digest #1679 Tue 14 March 1995
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Flat beer summary (Larry Merkel)
SIXTH ANNUAL SUNSHINE CHALLENGE (CFHBGordon)
Cheap hop scale (Will Self)
Looking for articles on Belgian beers ("Jay Lonner, charismatic icon animal man")
Boiling Chlorox/Beer Bread (Bob Sutton)
SUDS 4.0 release announcement (David Draper)
German for Brewers (" Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054")
Water analysis for Detroit Suburbs (Richard Hampo)
Burton Water Salts / Beer styles-contests (Eric Bender)
CO2 (SnowMS_at_CNTORSSA)
Re: In defense of Grainger... (usfmchql)
Grolsch gaskets (smtplink!guym)
Carbonater Info ("Richard Scotty")
IBU Calculation - summary (correction) (Glenn Tinseth)
Re: canning wort ... (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Water filter/Toronto (Matt_K)
1098 and Carbonation (Douglas R. Jones)
Simple CP Bottle Filler Endorsement ("Palmer.John")
Club Lists? ("Rick Violet")
BENEFITS OF GYLE FOR A PRIMER (Scott_Lutke)
Pitch timing (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Mill Plans (Scott Reich)
WANTED: opinions, please! ("Daniel Hertz")
Wit, the offering (Jim Busch)
DME vs Syrup/PureSeal bottlecaps (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
re: spring street brewery (Jsutera)
request (M_BOGGS)
Fermenters & U-brews (ChasHal)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 15:47:15 -0600
From: larrymerkel@i-link.net (Larry Merkel)
Subject: Flat beer summary
Thanks to all the folks that took the time and effort to answer my
question about flat beer. To refresh everyone's memory, my second batch of
beer had come out well except that about 20-25% of the bottles were flat,
and some of the others were super-foamy. I received 16 responses.
By far the most prevalent theory was that I needed to get and use a
bottling bucket. By racking to the bottling bucket with breboiled priming
sugar solution inside, the sugar distrbutes well throughout the beer. The
theory is that my priming sugar did not distribute well.
Several votes were also received indicating that the capping might
have been a problem. These folks indicated that they had seen this problem
before, and found that the cap seals were messed up on the flat ones. See
below for a few more comments.
One person also mentioned that I was using bleach for my sanitizer,
and perhaps I didn't get some of the bottles rinsed well enough. The bleach
then killed the yeast in the bottle, so there was none to eat the priming
sugar and create the CO2.
A few other comments from folks that I found interesting, and so
some others might as well: (Sorry I can't credit them...I wrote them down
and deleted the mail before I realized that I should have credited them)
"I use the same capper, (when I bottle) and in my quest to solve the flat
beer dilemma I took to sealing the cap, rotating the bottle 90 degrees and
re-sealing."
"Conventional wisdom calls for boiling the priming sugar and racking the
beer on top of the boiled priming solution. The swirling action is supposed
to adequately distribute the sugar. I questioned this and resorted to
gently stirring with a sanitized spoon and *BINGO* my flat beer problem was
fixed, YMMV. I now put a blanket of co2 over the beer in the bottling
bucket before stirring to avoid dreaded aeration."
"If you're afraid of the aeration that comes from the extra transfer, try
putting CO2 in the bucket first. I just use a bb gun cartrige and a
dispenser that came from the local head shop for less noble pursuits. It's
an extra $.50 per batch."
"I have had great luck sanitizing with the HEAT DRY cycle in my dishwasher.
A dishwasher wont CLEAN the inside of bottles, but the heat dry cycle will
kill (pasturise) anything that could harm your beer (or you). Dont use soap
in the dishwasher, just the last rinse and heat dry."
"I finally thought to look at the cap and saw that the seal had come loose
from the metal (probably during boiling) and therefore hadn't seated
properly. I just soak caps in bleach now."
"In your effort to keep from disturbing the yeast on the bottom of your
carboy, you probably had most of your priming sugar solution fall straight
to the bottom and sit there (makes sense because the S.G. of the sugar
solution would be greater than the finished beer, and it would sink!)."
"While bottling, re-stir the beer after every 6-8 bottles. Otherwise, the
sugar increases the density and can stratify, causing the last few beers to
be less carbonated (or so the theory goes)."
Thanks, Larry
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 21:58:34 -0500
From: CFHBGordon@aol.com
Subject: SIXTH ANNUAL SUNSHINE CHALLENGE
The Central Florida Homebrewers
present:
SIXTH ANNUAL SUNSHINE CHALLENGE
(AHA Sanctioned Competition Program)
Mark your calendars for the biggest beer event in the southeast, The Sixth
Annual Sunshine Challenge. On May 5, 6 and 7 in sunny Orlando, the Central
Florida Home Brewers are planning a beer lovers weekend. City of Orlando
Mayor, Glenda E. Hood has proclaimed Saturday, May 6th, as CENTRAL FLORIDA
HOMEBREW DAY.
All the events are located at THE MILL, Holiday Inn and Beach Brewing,
Florida's first microbrewery. They are adjacent to and within walking
distance to Universal Studios.
ELIGIBILITY -
This competition is open to anyone who wishes to enter. All
entries must be homebrewed, no entries may be brewed in any commercial
type facility. The names of all person brewing the beer must appear on the
entry form.
CATEGORIES -
The SUNSHINE CHALLENGE is open to all categories listed in the 1995 AHA
Style Guidelines except Category 28, Cider and Category 29, Sake.
The entrant is responsible for identifying the category and
subcategory of their entry(ies). Some categories may be combined, however,
all entries will be judged in the category/subcategory in which they were
entered. No entry will be reclassified.
HOW TO ENTER -
There is no restriction to the number of entries that may be
submitted in any category or subcategory.
Each entry must consist of three (3) clean, unmarked 10-14 ounce brown or
green glass bottles. Bottles must not have any raised glass or silk screen
markings or labels of any kind. If a printed cap is used, all printing or
other identifying characteristics must be blacked out with a permanent black
marker. No Grolsch-type or swing-top bottles.
An AHA type entry/recipe form must be included and an identification form
must be attached to each bottle using rubber bands - NO glue or tape.
Submission of an entry shall convey to the Central Florida Homebrewers
(CFHB) the right and permission to reproduce, with proper credit, the
entrant's recipe.
Entires should be received by the close of business, Monday, May 1, 1995.
Each entry must be accompanied with a check or money order (no cash please)
payable to CFHB for the full entry fee. A late fee of $2.00 per entry must
be paid for all entries received after May 1.
FEE SCHEDULE -
Per Entry (thru May 1) $5.50
Per entry (after May 1) $7.50
Entries may be dropped off a designated locations in the Orlando
metropolitan area, or shipped to:
Vicki Hearst
5167 Hidden Springs Blvd.
Orlando, Fl. 32819
JUDGING -
Judging will be held in an open session at 11:00 AM on Saturday & 10:00
AM on Sunday, May 6 & 7, 1995. First place winners in each category will
advance to "Best of Show" judging. Judges decisions are final. Judging
forms and standings will be sent to entrants as soon as possible after the
competition is concluded.
AWARDS -
First, Second, and Third Place winners will receive medals. First place,
Best of Show, will receive a special beer glass. Best of Show First runner
up and Second runner up will receive special awards.
The HEAVY BREWER MEDAL will go to the individual with the most points in
the competition. The SUNSHINE BOWL will go to the Club whose members total
the most points in the competition. This award will be passed on year after
year.
QUESTIONS AND INFORMATION -
E-mail CFHBGordon@aol.com
In the Olrando area contact THE-BREW BBS @ (407)-THE-BREW and leave
comment to the Brewmeister
----------------------------------------------------
Central Florida Homebrewers schedule of events for the
SIXTH ANNUAL SUNSHINE CHALLENGE
Super special room rates of only $45.00++ a night are available at the
Holiday Inn (407)351-3333 attached to the Mill Bakery, Eatery and Brewery.
Simply tell them you are attending the Sunshine Challenge.
Schedule of events:
Friday, May 5th 8:00 PM - VIP Reception/Luau. Guest of Honor: Greg
Noonan, renowned brewer, lecturer and writer will attend along with other
"Beer Celebrities." (space limits this to 60 people so make your reservation
early)
Saturday, May 6th
9AM BJCP Exam in THE MILL ($50 First time, $30 retake)
11AM First round judging (to conclude between 3:00 and 3:30 PM
4PM - Greg Noonan will give an insightful presentation on the
early years of micro-brewing and development of the
handcrafted beer movement.
7:30PM - Barbecue buffet, exquisite micro-brewery beer, and a live band
at THE MILL'S Beach Patio.
Sunday, May 7th
10AM - Judging resumes (first and second rounds) and concludes with the
Best of Show Judging.
2PM - Three hour Pub Crawl
5PM - Awards Ceremony and Central Florida Homebrewers meeting begins.
Cost for these events: At the door In advance
VIP Reception (Friday night): $16.00 $14.00
Seminar (Saturday afternoon): $12.00 $10.00
Barbecue (Saturday evening): $19.00 $17.00
Pub Crawl (Sunday afternoon): $10.00 $ 8.00
does not include drinks ============= ===========
$57.00 $49.00
Commemorative T-Shirt(M,L,XL,XXL) $15.00 $13.00
(DISCLAIMER - The foregoing information is reproduced here as a service to
the online brewing community. In no event shall the poster of this
information be held liable for any errors or omissions. An honest effort has
been made to communicate the sum of the contents of the official announcement
from the CFHB)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 22:45:56 -0700
From: wself@viking.emcmt.edu (Will Self)
Subject: Cheap hop scale
For the new brewer.
You can make a very inexpensive (free) hop-weighing scale, which
will be perfectly fine for the occasional brewer. It is similar
to ones that were much used in the 60's to weigh a certain
botanical relative of the hop. It is made from corrugated cardboard
and a small paper sack, and some paper clips and nails.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
-> . Corner C Hole A Hole B .
. o o .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. . sack
. . hangs
. . here
. | | | | .
. | | | | .
. | | | | .
.|. |. |.|.
- - - -
(nails pointing up)
Cut this piece out of corrugated cardboard with the corrugations
running vertically. The actual distance from corner C to hole B
should be about 8 or 9 inches.
The curve running from Corner C to the nails should be an arc of
a circle centered at Hole A.
Make holes A and B. A paper punch will do nicely. With a small
saw, like a coping saw, cut off two 3/16 inch pieces from the end
of a cheap ballpoint pen and glue these pieces into the holes (as
little bushings) to reinforce them. Put some glue on 4 12-penny
nails and push them into the corrugations of the cardboard, as
shown.
Tack a small nail into a wall. You will hang hole A on the small
nail. Punch a hole near the top of a lunch-size paper bag, after
first reinforcing the bag with tape, inside and out, where the hole
will be. Hand the bag from hole B with light wire or a chain
of paper clips.
You will be marking a scale on the arc that runs from corner
C down to the nails. This will be 0 near corner C and about
4 ounces down near the nails. You may want to glue some white
paper along there before marking the scale.
You will need one mark on the wall to line up with the marks on
your scale. This is shown by the arrow near corner C. Friction
against the wall can be reduced by putting a couple of small
washers (of cardboard or anything) behind hole A.
You can use the following to calibrate:
1/4 ounce = 1 nickel and 1 dime (U.S. coins)
1/2 ounce = 2 nickels and 2 dimes
3/4 ounce = 1 nickel and 2 dimes and 4 pennies
1 ounce = 2 nickels and 3 dimes and 4 pennies
To go higher, use multiples of the one-ounce equivalent, which
you will find to be quite accurate. Be sure to have the sack in
place when you calibrate.
Will Self
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 22:08:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "Jay Lonner, charismatic icon animal man" <8635660@NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU>
Subject: Looking for articles on Belgian beers
Brewers,
Late last year, in preparation for the Spirit of Belgium competition, several
articles were posted that amounted to an FAQ on brewing Belgian beers. I've
just had a look in the Stanford archives but could not find these documents
there. Are they available somewhere via anonymous FTP, and if so would some
kind soul direct me toward them? I'm gearing up to brew a Wit and would like
to read up on the subject.
TIA,
Jay.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Lonner 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu Bellingham, WA
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ARE YOU ABNORMAL? Then you're probably better than most people!
Send $1 to: The SubGenius Foundation, P.O. Box 140306, Dallas, TX 75214
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 07:01 EST
From: Bob Sutton <BSutton_+a_FDGV-03_+lBob_Sutton+r%Fluor_Daniel@mcimail.com>
Subject: Boiling Chlorox/Beer Bread
Boiling Chlorox - The Nightmare Continues (and Beer Bread)
Bruce DeBolt (keithfrank@dow.com) wrote re: dishwasher detergents. Just
for clarification sodium silicate (my CRC tells me this is sand) is used
as a flow assist/anti-caking agent. Its that debris that is left in all
your plastic cups and saucers that toppled over during the last
dishwasher run. I doubt that machine parts derive any benefit, unless
abrasive cleaning is beneficial.
Anyway since the topic is open, I soak my bottles 1/2 cup of Cascade
(not a plug...wink, wink, nod, nod) PLUS a 1/4 cup of CHLOROX per gallon
of hot (130-150F) water. A 15 minute soak followed by a jet rinse covers
everything. I contacted P&G about the advisability of adding bleach to
their product. Of course they said it wasn't required, however no
problem. Just add the bleach last (detergent + water + you know), and
work in a "well-ventilated" area ;-)
But it doesn't end there...as any micro major knows, wet bottles are a
potential source for bacterial residence, so I heat kill all my bottles
at 350F for 4 hours (generally I run this overnight...I knew that the
Time Bake feature had a purpose). One caveat...be sure to remove the
Grolsch type tops BEFORE heating. Seems they switched to plastic and I
missed it, Whew what a mess, and at 3 am too.
Arthur_S_Ward.henr801h%xerox.com@vmsmail:SMTP was asking about beer
bread. I have a killer recipe but hold misgivings about cooking with
beer... anyway here it is
1.25 cups of your favorite (hiccup)
2.25 cups of BREAD flour
0.75 cups of whole wheat flour
1 tsp salt (NaCl)
1.5 tbl butter
0.67 cups of molasses
0.33 cups of cornmeal
0.33 cups of all bran cereal
1.75 tsp yeast
I won't get into details here, just follow the general procedure for
breadmaking (see any cookbook) and bake at 350F until the crust is brown
and firm. Enjoy..
BrewOn
Bob Sutton
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 22:12:20 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <ddraper@laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Subject: SUDS 4.0 release announcement
Dear Friends, here is the announcement for the long-awaited new release
of SUDS by Michael Taylor. I am posting it here simply to get the word
out asap. All you IBUmeisters out there, take particular note...
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
[begin included file]
Hi SUDS users! Just a note to announce release SUDSW 4.0 for Windows.
As always, this is a free upgrade to all registered users of SUDSW
provided you obtain the program yourself. The program is currently
available on:
Compuserve in Wine/Beer forum (GO WINE) in General Homebrewing area
as SUDW40.EXE
America Online as SUDW40.EXE in Windows file area
The Power BBS (610)740-9196 in Distribution Headquarters library
as SUDW40.ARJ (ARJ decompression program needed to decompress)
Within the next few weeks, SUDSW 4.0 will be available on:
Internet: ftp from sierra.stanford.edu (or wherever they move
it to!!!), probably also from WWW.
Ziffnet as SUDW40.ZIP
SUDSW 4.0 changes
o Added robust water temperature and usage calculations to the
recipe formulator.
o Fixed problems in page alignment when printing.
o Added spin buttons to date fields for easier data entry.
o Added user-editable hop utilization tables allowing customization
of IBU calculation methods in SUDSW.
o Removed label routine from program
o Updated AHA style guidelines for 1995.
You will notice that hop ibu calculations default to Jackie Rager
1990 Zymurgy figures. The formulator will now show higher values
closer to release 3.0 of SUDS. If you prefer the figures used in
SUDSW 3.1, run the GARETZ.BAT file to utilize Mark Garetz figures.
If you prefer the figures of Glenn Tinseth, run the TINSETH.BAT
file to install those ibu tables. You can also refer to online
documentation on how to edit the IBU tables yourself.
If you cannot get the program from the above sources, I will gladly
send you a disk for a $7 handling charge with release 4.0 of SUDSW.
Send a request to:
Michael C. Taylor
1626 Main Street
Bethlehem, PA 18018-1905
Compuserve: 76625,2552
Internet: 76625.2552@compuserve.com
Thanks again for all of your support and for making SUDSW such
fun to develop!
Happy Brewing,
Mike
[end included file]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 06:51:01 EST
From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9@ibmmail.com>
Subject: German for Brewers
In HBD 1667 AJ asked about my sig:
>"Hopfen und Malz gehoeren in den Halz" which I'd make "Hops and Malt belong
>in the neck". Is that right. Does it mean down the throat?
The accusative form "in den" connotes a motion into or down the throat. In the
throat would be "in dem Halz", using the dative form.
Sorry about the bandwidth, now a question for you extract brewers.
Has anyone tried the Brewferm kits for Belgen Beers? The assortment of flavors
such as Kriek, Trappist, Wit and Belgen Dark, sounds very interesting. I saw
these at a shop in Belgium last weekend. Price, ca. $12 for 10 liters of beer.
How's the quality?
Bob Bloodworth
Cologne
"Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalt's!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 08:08:20 EST
From: captain@vulcan.srl.ford.com (Richard Hampo)
Subject: Water analysis for Detroit Suburbs
Howdy,
Does anyone out there have water analysis results for
western Detroit suburbs? Livonia, Michigan, to be exact?
I think all of the area's water comes from the Detroit river.
I thought I'd ask before chasing it down through the
water department....
Thanks in advance,
Richard Hampo
H & H Brewing
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:08:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Eric Bender <benderec@ttown.apci.com>
Subject: Burton Water Salts / Beer styles-contests
I have been trying to perfect a english style old ale (all grain) this
year and have made some very good tasting beers. But in comparrison to
some classic commercial versions, my english ales lack the complexity of
the finer commercial brews. I decided to bite the $$ bullet and have my
well water analyzed. My water turns out to be moderately soft and low in
mineral content. To get to the point, I want to add burton salts
which lists CaSO4, MgSO4, and NaCl as the ingredients. My question is,
can anyone tell me at what percentage of each of these salts are in
burton salts? I've seen calculations for each one of these salts listed
seperately (PPM/GRAM), but not burton salts as a whole.
I'd like to start this comment/question out by saying that homebrew
contests and the results we receive from the judges are valuable to all
homebrewers who are interested in improving their beer. Where beer styles
are concerned, I have some mixed emotions about a delicious beer that
does not quite fit into the style in which it was entered and suffers
terribly in the final results because of it. To make matters worse, mixed
signals are being sent out through the publications we homebrewers read.
In the Winter 1994 Zymurgy, the recipe for the "silver" medal winner in
last years AHA contest for Kolsch has the first judges comment as "Lacks
Kolsch fruitiness". Then in the same issue, the descriptions for styles
for AHA national competion for Kolsch says; No fruitiness, or esters. I
have a Kolsch (maybe) that fits all the descriptions, except I do have
some fruitiness. Can I possibly look forward to good scores or another
"not true to style" entry on the results sheet?
Eric Bender
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 10:38:43 EST
From: SnowMS_at_CNTORSSA@CCIP.PERKIN-ELMER.COM
Subject: CO2
A.J. deLange commented about CO2 pressure at various temperatures. One
comment is that above 31C the CO2 in the cylinder becomes
supercritical(which is a state between a gas and a liquid). For those
who remember from high school that all materials are gas,liquids and
solids, here is the new list of the states of matter
Plasma
Gas
Supercritical Fluid
Liquid
Non-Newtonian Fluid
Solid
Zero Entropy Lattice
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 10:40:25 EST
From: usfmchql@ibmmail.com
Subject: Re: In defense of Grainger...
As indicated in a fax from an anonymous FTP (Fax Transmitting Person) from
Acme Mills, in HBD# 1677 I incorrectly called FMEA's Failure Mode Engineering
Analysis. Should have been Failure Mode & Effects Analysis. My head hangs down
in shame...
Brew On!
Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | 'Let a good beer be the exclamation
usfmchql@ibmmail.com | point at the end of your day as
(313)33-73657 (V) | every sentence requires proper
(313)59-42328 (F) | punctuation.' ;-)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 09:13:39 MDT
From: exabyte!smtplink!guym@uunet.uu.net
Subject: Grolsch gaskets
In HBD #1678, Brian Pickerill asks how many times one can use Grolsch
gaskets before replacing them. I have between 50 and 60 Grolsch bottles
that I have used for over 4 years now without EVER replacing the gaskets.
I have never had an infection or carbonation problem with them to date. I
typically use them to bottle stouts (my favorite style) and Christmas brews
(typically spiced stouts in my case - see a pattern here?!) though I did
bottle a Blueberry Melomel in them as well. One of the Christmas brews
that I put in these bottles is from my recipe in the Cat's Meow called
"Christmas in Ireland". A friend and I drank the last bottle of that this
past Christmas - it was over 3 years old and absolutely superb! My
procedure is not to replace them until they are visibly deformed or
dry-rotted. Incidentally, I sanitize these in the dishwasher without soap
and with the gaskets in place. Just one man's experience.
--
Guy McConnell | Exabyte Corp. | Huntersville, NC | guym@exabyte.com
"And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one for dessert."
------------------------------
Date: 13 Mar 1995 09:36:36 U
From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty@msmgate.mrg.uswest.com>
Subject: Carbonater Info
Bob Christopher gives a reave review of the Carbonater cap. I have to agree
completely that this is one of the handiest gadgets that I have.
He asks if you can fill from a keg and "re-charge" them - the answer Bob is yes
- I do it all the time and no longer have to haul a keg and tank around. Just
cut a piece of tubing a little longer than the bottle is tall and insert it in
your keg tap. Hold the tubing firmly to avoid a brew shower and quietly fill
the bottle from the bottom. Attach the cap and hit it with about 30 PSI of
CO2. I also use this on the small 16 oz Coke / Pepsi bottles so I can give
away brews without the hassle of traditional bottling.
I did have trouble with one cap which the Liquid Bread people _IMMEDIATELY_
took care of by replacing the defective cap. I have heard a rumor that they
are using a new manufacturing process to produce these caps much more cost
effectively and that the price should drop soon.
Standard disclaimers apply.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:49:45 -0800
From: gtinseth@teleport.com (Glenn Tinseth)
Subject: IBU Calculation - summary (correction)
Frank Longmore <longmore@tyrell.net> in summarizing his reading on the
subject of calculating BUs writes:
> 4. There is some belief that boiling for longer than 60 minutes
> will actually decrease the hop bitterness.
I know this is somehow embedded in the homebrew literature (at least the
older stuff), but it is definitely not true. Studies I've seen always show
that bitterness continues to increase, even out to 3 hours of boiling. You
do, however, get the most bang for your buck in the first 45 minutes of
boiling.
Norm Pyle, this should be in the FAQ, don't you think?
If anyone out there doesn't yet have the Hops FAQ
<ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/clubs/beer/> get it. Norm does a great job keeping
it up to date and it's filled with great info, including another, very
interesting set of util numbers :^)
Cheers,
Glenn
(The Hop Page is coming...)
Glenn Tinseth gtinseth@teleport.com
Project Manager Homebrewer and Certified Beer Judge
Terra Pacific Writing Corp--Technical Communication and Translation
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 13:10:46 EST
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: Re: canning wort ...
Even if the botulin organism is dead, if it *has grown* and produced
the toxin, the toxin will still be present. The ONLY way to be sure
of not getting botulin poisoning is to can under conditions where it
will not grow (pressure can, or pH < 4.6), or to reboil the canned
goods after decanting them (and BEFORE tasting them).
I heard from one correspondant who said that his starter wort had a pH
about 4.6. YMMV.
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 13:12:13 est
From: Matt_K@ceo.sts-systems.ca
Subject: Water filter/Toronto
Message:
Two quick questions:
I've managed to justify installing a water filter to without
mentioning the "brew" word. You can either install one of these
things under the sink or in the basement. If the filter is installed
in the basement where the water enters the house all the water sitting
in the pipes (and the hot water tank) will not be clorinated. Could
this cause a problem?
Also we will be in Toronto this weekend. Any info re. good
beer/eating places will be appreciated.
Many thank's
Matt
in Montreal
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 13:13:23 -0600
From: djones@iex.com (Douglas R. Jones)
Subject: 1098 and Carbonation
Well after scanning the archives I haven't found any wisdom so I will see
what the collective has to say. I brewed a 1064 OG ale using 1098. I
followed my normal pattern which is 1 week in the primary at 68F, 2 weeks in
the secondary at 68F, bottle/minikeg with 3/4 cup corn sugar. Age 2 weeks,
chill and drink. Well I chilled 2 bottles and 1 minikeg. The bottles were
flat. Just a couple of CO2 bubbles. A real shocker! This is my 13th batch.
Follwed my normal routine for bottle. Soak ina 25 ppm Iodophor solution,
rinse in very hot water and a hot dry cycle in the dishwasher.
Any ideas? I did tap the keg. Sorta chickened out. I saw where plenty of
folks commented on rapid ferments (saw that) and poor flocculation (didn't
see that). In fact I thought mine flock'd nicely. Storage temp has been in
the 72F range. Worked for other batches. So any ideas? Should I tap the
minikeg and take my chances?
TIA,
Doug
- --------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones
both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation
Led Zeppelin | (214)301-1307
| djones@iex.com
- --------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 13 Mar 1995 11:19:58 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Simple CP Bottle Filler Endorsement
Hey Friends,
I wanted to tell you that I made the simple CP bottle filler based on the HBD
re-post of a week or more ago made with a 3/8 raking cane and a #2 stopper.
It works SO well it isnt even funny! Cripes!
When I think of the three messy hours I spent spilling beer trying to fill from
the keg thru the tap compared to the 5 minutes to fill 3 bottles with no
foaming or spillage and no foaming over while trying to put caps on, Geez!
EVERYONE should have one!
I used a standard liquid side pinlock fitting w/ 2ft of 3/16 ID hose attached
by brass hose barbs to a brass needle valve to a hosebarb to hosebarb adapter
(3/16 to 5/16 ID tubing). The 5/16 ID tubing was softened by hot water and
slipped over a piece of 3/8 plastic racking cane with a #2 stopper on it.
That's it! I spent 20 buck on parts because I was in a hurry and didn't want to
drive to another hardware store. Otherwise the biggest ticket items are the
pinlock fitting and the needle valve at about 6 bucks each. Total combined
tubing length is 3 feet.
To use it:
1. Slide the stopper to the appropriate height and insert the tube and stopper
into the bottle. A super tight seal is not necessary or desired. But as the
original post said, keep your thumb over it so it doesn't shoot out.
2. Open the needle valve, there will be considerable foaming at first, but
after the pressure starts to build it will quickly stop.
3. As the bottle fills and the pressure equalizes it may be necessary to vent
the bottle, by wiggling the stopper a bit, a couple times to keep it filling,
especially as the beer gets into the neck. Fill it almost to the base of the
stopper. There will be less than a quarter inch of foam on top.
4. Close the valve, pause a few seconds, and then vent the bottle and draw out
the tube. I experienced no rush of foam at this point. Very stable and no mess.
5. Cap that puppie.
The only caveat, as Kinney noted in an earlier post, is that you either need to
flush the bottle with CO2 or consume it soon, otherwise the compressed air
during filling results in oxidation after a couple weeks. Of course if you are
just filling some bottles to take to a meeting or short time storage, this is
not a concern.
Its the best device since the Egg McMuffin.
John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P
johnj@primenet.com Huntington Beach, California
Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/
------------------------------
Date: 13 Mar 1995 12:42:08 -0800
From: "Rick Violet" <rick_violet@powertalk.apple.com>
Subject: Club Lists?
Anyone know where I can find a listing of homebrew clubs? I am located near
San Fransisco (San Jose specifically). Private e-mail is ok.
TIA
Rick Violet
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 14:50 EST
From: Scott_Lutke@vos.stratus.com
Subject: BENEFITS OF GYLE FOR A PRIMER
I make 15 gal. batches and use gyle, some of the reason are:
My fermenter capacity is 16.5 gal. I make just under 16.5 gal.
of wort, take out just under 1.5 gal. of wort just before pitching
my yeast and store it in a sterile mason jar in my frig.
while my batch ferments out.
This brings the level of my batch back down to 15 gal. allowing
me over 15% expansion in my fermenter which is needed so I don't
blow thru my blow-off tube.
after my batch reaches a bottling gravity, I tranfering to my bottling
bucket (16.5 gal. cap.) I then add the unfermented gyle to my batch
in the bottling bucket bring the level back just under 16.5 gal. then bottle.
The biggest Benefit is that I can make more beer with my current fermenter
then I could if I used sugar. (just under 1.5 gal. more) VS. the 3 cups
of priming suger plus 3 cups of water. Whats that, something around 1.5
quart? Plus thats one less ingedient I have to buy and store in a cool place
ect... maybe you can taste the differents and maybe you can't.
I just tell everybody I can and they nod and say I think your right as
they enjoy the free hame-brew.
The formula for figuring gyle is:
Quarts of gyle (unfermenter wort) = 12 X gallons of wort
----------------------------
(specific gravity -1) X 1000
PS. I find that using 25% more then the formula calls for does nicely.
good luck and enjoy.
------------------------------
Date: 13 Mar 95 13:39:00 -0600
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Pitch timing
Don writes:
>True. Thanks, also, for the references on yeast metabolism.
>The reason I use the method outlined above is that by waiting
>for the yeast to fall (AFTER high krausen), I have hopefully
>built up large glycogen reserves in the yeast population. I
>then decant the spent wort, pitch a pint of fresh wort, aerate, and
>pitch at high krausen. This has the benefit of maximizing
>yeast glycogen reserves, and pithing during the exponential
>growth phase, which reduces lag times AND produces a healthy
>and vigourous ferment. This is the same technique I used in the
>bio-tech lab for yeast and E. Coli cultures in my previous life as a
>gene cloner. It works.
It works and it makes fine beer, but I still contend that it may not
be the ideal pitching timing. When you waited for the yeast to fall,
you did in fact get them to a pretty high glycogen level. However,
by adding fresh wort, you are restarting their cycle and the first
thing that yeast do when they discover fresh food is to reproduce.
I believe that for the first two (check this) hours of respiration,
the yeast do not eat the new sugar that is in their environment, but
rather use their glycogen reserves up. They then begin eating the
sugar in their environment. When this environmental sugar begins to
be depleated, they start to replenish their glycogen stores. By adding
the new wort and waiting for high kraeusen, you are pitching the yeast
at their lowest glycogen levels despite the fact that they were at
high levels *before* you added the second feeding to the starter.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 14:15:14 -0500
From: scottr@trnd.rdsystem.com (Scott Reich)
Subject: Mill Plans
I've been brewing for almost 2 years now and have recently made the
leap into all grain. Currently I've been looking into purchasing a
mill, however my father-in-law is quite a machinist and could probably
construct one is given some plans. Does anyone know of where I can
acquire such plans.
Thx, Scott~
~
scottr@rdsystem.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 8:33:02 MST
From: "Daniel Hertz" <hertz@acs.ucalgary.ca>
Subject: WANTED: opinions, please!
I apologize that this is NOT a homebrewing related question....
I'm doing a feature article on the current trend for drinking
specialized beer and the rise of micro-breweries/brewpubs. Why
are we seeing more and more craft beers and brewpubs? What is
this trend to drinking less but better?
I WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!!
And if anyone out there has an opinion on Canadian brews,
especially in the Calgary area (Big Rock, Bresters, Mission
Bridge Brewing Company, Bow Valley Breweries, Molson's new
"Signature Series"...), let me know.
Do you think Microbrews are worth the premium price?
Look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Please reply to my personal mail box:
hertz@acs.ucalgary.ca
Daniel Hertz,
Beverage Critic, The Calgary Sun
Tel/Fax: (403) 245-8740
- --
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 17:07:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch <busch@eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Wit, the offering
Steven asks about the Spring St brewing co offering that appeared on
Internet newsgroups and other places. Here is what I posted to alt.beer
last week about this offering. Disclaimer: make your own decisions, this
may turn out to be a great chance or........
I saw with interest the Internet offering of Wit!, the beer. I
guess the first thing that got my attention was using the Internet to
solicit funds for a brewery. Since Ive just invested in a small
microbrewery/pub, Ive been actively researching the subject. So,
I emailed and received an offering package.
To summarize:
Wit! is run by a young (34) Harvard Law lawyer. Shades of Jim Koch
already come to mind.
Wit! was developed by hiring the brewmaster from Raaf, Netherlands.
This part really suprised me, since Raaf in Amsterdam is a damn fine
wit bier, damn better than Wit! contract brewed in Minnesota. I guess
the brewmaster wanted a lot more money to give em a really good beer!
Wit!'s brewing is supervised by Dr. Owades , the same guy who was
involved in the creation of light beer.
This is already sounding like Sam Adams II, dressed in Belgian
clothing.
As one reads further, it becomes more and more apparent that this
contract brewer is very interested in marketing, much more so over
beer. In fact, he has already sold shares of the company to a marketing
firm to produce point of sale materials. This is a trend that the
company has followed for some time, trade shares of equity for services
rendered. Not that this is bad, but I see a trend here, and dilution of
the corporate equity is inevitible. The offering is targeting $5 million
of capital raised. By far the bulk of this capital is to be spent on
marketing and associated sales force. The company has already lost close
to a million dollars and is only present in a few major markets.
Wit! is brewed by the same folks who make Petes Wicked.
The stocks are essentially penny stocks that sell for under $2. The
way you make moeny on this is through the *chance* that eventually this
company will be the next Sam Adams and have stocks that are worth a lot
more than the original few cents. No dividends, no plans to be traded,
etc...
I guess the thing that bothers me about this kind of company is that
they like to maintain the appearence of being a high quality microbrewery,
and even refer to themselves as a microbrewery, when in fact they are
a group of lawyers and marketing executives. If thats what you want
running your company, by all means go ahead and invest. For my money, Ill
stick to smaller operations that have beer as the essence of the operation
in all aspects, not merely a means to an end. After all, the best micros
in america have grown from the bottom up, Sierra, Anchor, even Red Hook.
Marketing is important but the beer must come first.
Jim Busch
busch@mews.gsfc.nasa.gov
"DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!"
------------------------------
Date: 13 Mar 95 16:09:00 -0600
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: DME vs Syrup/PureSeal bottlecaps
Tim writes:
>I would appreciate any insights into the differences, if any, between
>Dried Malt Extract and Syrup. Seems to me that everything I have seen
>says to use either - that they are "interchangeable" if you will.
DME is about 3-6% water and syrups are about 20-25% water. Therefore
there are quite a few more "points" in DME than in syrup. If you substitute
one for the other you need to add about 15% more syrup (or about 15% less DME).
With time (several months), syrup tends to get darker and take on oxidized
flavours. I have not noticed any degredation with DME, so perhaps it is more
stable?
***
Steve writes:
>>Smartcaps (PureSeal) bottlecaps lose their ability to absorb oxygen
>>if you boil them...
>
>I thought I had read somewhere that boiling PureSeal caps "activated" their
>ability to absorb oxygen. Not so? If they shouldn't be boiled, is
>sanitizing with chlorine solution ok?
Perhaps it does activate them but at boiling temperatures maybe their oxygen
absorption ability fizzles out before they can be put to use... I don't
know. What I *do* know, from my conversation with the lead engineer that
designed PureSeal (aka SmartCaps) bottlecaps is that they are no better
than regular bottlecaps if you boil them. He said to sanitize them in
200ppm Chlorine Bleach solution. I should call him back and ask about
iodophor because I now use bleach only for bottlecaps and cleaning the
gunk off the ceiling of the carboy and use iodophor or OneStep for all my
other sanitizing needs.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 17:54:09 EST
From: ustcclj3@ibmmail.com
Subject: HB Stores in the Houston Tx. Area
*** Warning, very regional post ***
Hello all,
The ways of life will have me relocating to Houston Tx. I would
appreciate any info on home brew stores or brew pubs in the Houston
area. I'd also be interested in any info on places in the South
Houston to Galvaston area since I will hopefully be living in Clear
Lake.
Private Replies are ok, or post to the digest
Thanks in advance
Richard Getteau
ustcclj3@ibmmail.com
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Message From : GETTEAU, RICHARD *
* Location : US-ATLANTA(OFACSERV) *
* KOMAIL ID : A09967 (OFACSERV) *
* Date and Time: 03/13/95 17:52:05 *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 20:50:56 -0500
From: Jsutera@aol.com
Subject: re: spring street brewery
The initial offering was in nov or dec 1994 and sold out in about a month,
alot of beer drinkers willing to jump in and own a part of a brewery, better
luck next time. I also missed the boat.
-Spring street brewery of new york is actually a contract brewery that brews
its beer at a St. Paul minn. brewery.
-As for the taste try a bottle, I found it at the first beer store that I
looked in, Its a belgian style beer. I'm not a belgian beer drinker so I will
leave the description out. It's good though.
Keep an eye on Sam Adams, Sierra Nevada, Anchor Steam, Full Sail, Widmer's
and Petes Wicked. All are privately owned but could go public in the
future.(ale street news feb/march 95)
joe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 21:41:15 -0500 (EST)
From: M_BOGGS@delphi.com
Subject: request
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 22:12:13 -0500
From: ChasHal@aol.com
Subject: Fermenters & U-brews
I would appreciate any information and especially experience which any one
has had with either of two fermenters I have recently heard about.
One is a 6 gal. glass carboy by Symbio (distributed by Wine & Beer Club,
Gatineau. Que.). It has a hole drilled near the base and has a tap installed.
The other is a Lexan polycarbonate resin 7.5 gal. fermenter sold under the
name "Mr. Beer".
Each of these items seems interesting but I wonder how they actually work
I would also like to hear from brewers who have used a u-brew. One has just
opened in my area. I do not want to spend the money or the time making a
large batch of beer without the benefit of other people's experience.
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1679, 03/14/95
*************************************
-------
