Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #1585
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/11/22 04:52:48
HOMEBREW Digest #1585 Tue 22 November 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Re: Wort Cooling and Blow Off Q's (Stephen Tinsley)
Brewpot Drain / Hop Source (Stephen Tinsley)
Foam city Canada/Christmas Ale (Matt_K)
KVAS recipes (RON)
Brewster secrets (Gary Bell)
RE:Growlers (Jim Busch)
Parallel Yeast Culturing (Randy M. Davis)
Re: parallel yeast culturing questions (Dave Coombs)
Re: Run With The Wolves (TWideman)
New York Area Brewpubs (kim.meeks)
Priming Question ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
Malt extract (HDIP9235)" <HDIP9235@BCITVM.BCIT.BC.CA>
Geneva beer sources (RLANCASTER)
Time in fermenter ("A. Bruce Dotson")
SS Heat Transfer (Rich Larsen)
Isomerization/Stepping Up Starters/Brew Day/IBUs!! (npyle)
RE:O2 and flammability ("Vandermey, John")
Heineken Recipe (Eric Hale)
Last chance for a Happy Holiday ("Ginger Wotring, Pharm/Phys")
Humor and Good Luck Combo (Bob W Surratt)
Iodine concentration, again... ("Harralson, Kirk")
WWW site with extract recipes (Maxime BURZLAFF)
Mike's process/cookers and scorching/request for European accomodations (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Sam Adams Triple Bock (MYETTE)
Free Crates (Jeff Guillet)
******************************************************************
* NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail,
* I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list
* that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox
* is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced
* mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days.
*
* If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only
* sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get
* more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list.
******************************************************************
Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
(Articles are published in the order they are received.)
Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc.,
to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if
you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L@UA1VM.UA.EDU),
then you MUST unsubscribe the same way!
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from
sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via
mail from listserv@sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a
message to that address to receive listserver instructions.)
Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen@novell.physics.umr.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 07:16:18 CST
From: a207613@sun278.dseg.ti.com (Stephen Tinsley)
Subject: Re: Wort Cooling and Blow Off Q's
Thomas55@aol.com had a question about the problems associated with using
a blowoff hose for the initial stages of primary fermentation. I began
brewing using a 5 gallon primary fermenter and blowoff hose like you
described. There is basically no safety hazard with this system, since
you are giving all expended gasses and solids a way to escape from the
fermenter. The problem with it, as it was explained to me by my friendly
homebrew professional, is twofold. First, there is a contamination risk.
It's difficult to effectively clean a blowoff hose, and if you do, you
still run a greater risk of outside infection than with a high-quality
fermentation lock. The second reason is that you are blowing off active
yeast through your hose (this applies only to top-fermenting ale yeasts).
A few months ago, I broke my primary fermenter, narowly escaping major
lacerations, and had to purchase another one. The guy at the homebrew
shop suggested I get a 7 gallon carboy for use with my 5 gallon batches,
that way the active yeast rises and falls, and expends all of its energy
on the beer, not on a journey through the blowoff hose. Any rebutalls
to this line of thought? Do the "bad hop oils" really make a difference
here?
- Steve Tinsley
stinsley@ti.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 07:31:55 CST
From: a207613@sun278.dseg.ti.com (Stephen Tinsley)
Subject: Brewpot Drain / Hop Source
First of all, let me say that Mike Inglis' post about his brew day was one
of the more fascinating and informative posts that I have seen in this
forum since before the Great Copyright Fiasco. I would encourage all of
you tried and true grain brewers to submit the details of your process.
It's the best way for us newbies to learn the way real brewers actually
work their magic. In Mikes post he mentions his three brewpots, all of
which have a drain installed. I have a 20 qt stainless steel brewpot
(the only thing keeping me from going to all-grain) without a drain, and
to my knowledge I have never seen one with a drain. My question is, how
do you install a drain on a brewpot? Can you buy the part at a hardware
store? I'd appreciate any info you gods o' the beer world could share.
Next question... How do I get in touch with "Hop Source". I'd like to
start dry hopping with some whole hops, and I've heard this business
mentioned here. Private email would be fine if you don't want to waste
BW. TIA!
- Steve Tinsley
stinsley@ti.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 09:03:42 est
From: Matt_K@ceo.sts-systems.ca
Subject: Foam city Canada/Christmas Ale
Message:
We had a surprise party for my wife's xx (censored!!) birthday this
weekend. I had kegged a batch of pale ale earlier in the week for the
occasion. It had been sitting in the fridge at about 25 psi
until just before the party. When the time came to dispense, all I
managed to get from the keg were beautiful glasses of foam. (My
brewing buddy's comment: "Wow, killer head. How do you do it?")
I managed to get around the problem by restricting the flow from the
tap to a minimum and pleading for patience. I suspect that I should
have lowered the pressure in the keg to a reasonable dispensing level
a day or two before the party. Is this correct? BTW the beer tasted
fine.
On to a different topic. I am planning to brew my first
Christmas ale this week. I would like to use my generic pale ale
recipe (all grain) as a base. Additions of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg
etc. sound yummy. If anyone has a recipe for a pale ale using using
all/some of the above ingredients (or others) I would like to hear
from you. I did check both Papazian and Miller's book but the only
recipe I found had ginger as an ingredient which I'm not sure I want
to try. Many Thank's
Matt (in Montreal)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 11:24 EST
From: RON.admin@admin.creol.ucf.edu (RON)
Subject: KVAS recipes
I have finally put together my tried and true findings regarding
authentic Russian Kvas recipes. If you haven't yet and are interested
I can forward a copy. How could this file be (or could someone) put
in the sierra archives. Thanks
ron@laser.creol.ucf.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 08:30:12 -0800
From: gbell@ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell)
Subject: Brewster secrets
I really enjoyed the post by Kit Anderson (kit.anderson@acornbbs.com) on
Brewster technique. I am surprised that she was so willing to reveal the
time-honored secrets of the Dos Equis (XX) gender. Of course, some
comments and questions are in order:
>Some of us may invest in a wort chiller but the sight of those copper
>coils sends chilly memories of killer IUD's through our collective mind
>and we usually skip the technical additives like that.
Not to be confused with DUI's. I suppose I'll need to make some more
additions to the Acronym.faq now.
>My experience is that women generally fine tune their grinders better
>than men [you can quote me here] because of a simple anatomical
>difference... we have breasts. You heard me right on that one. You'll
>never catch a women fiddling with their grinder after its started or
>leaning over the top of it to check the feed flow.
I've had some difficulty lately finding the right nipple *for* my
mash tun. But this is certainly a new perspective. Perhaps a recipe for
milk stout is in order [:-o].
>I'm also sure that the turning of the crank has some deeper Freudian
>meaning, so we prefer a steady rhythm for that as well.
The Pope, I'm sure, would approve.
>Instead of throwing away those torn pantyhose , just stretch the good
>leg over the top of your brewpot and filter out the wort from the trub.
>Just pour away and aerate the hell out of that gyle.
Perhaps you could post an article on a comparison of different brands.
Do Haynes work as well as L'eggs? What about the kind with little gold
sparkles -- do they work well for golden ales? Do you use fishnet when
using fresh hops? Can we substitute our blue jeans or running tights?
Men want to know!
>Go ahead and do some male bonding after reading this installment and
>feel free to get out in the woods to beat on upturned mashtuns and
>brewpots to disseminate your agony.
Men thrive on agony. However, perhaps we should consider organizing
Ironmaster Johnbull fire circles to get in touch with our inner brewers.
[;-\]
Cheers,
Gary
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Gary Bell "Quis dolor cui dolium?"
Lake Elsinore, CA
(909) 674-3637
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 11:35:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: RE:Growlers
Jeff writes:
<It's a 2-Liter Amber bottle with a decorative handle and a
<Grolsch-Type swing-top. It sounds like a great idea, but they're
<charging $17.95 for them! You'd need to spend $180 to buy the 10
<you'd need for a batch of beer, and at that cost, you may as well
<buy yourself brand new kegs!
THese are pretty standard in Germany. You carry one into a
hausbrauerie and they refill em. If this model is really made
in Germany than it is worth about $12. The Baltimore Brewing Co
uses and sells these and I have lots of em. They make for a
great way to carry a sixer of beer around in one bottle.
Bob asks how long I have stored yeast cold. The answer is
not long. Since I get most of my yeast from a local micro,
I try not to hang on to too much, and it makes a good excuse to
visit the micro! If you dont have this good fortune, then it all
depends on the mutation rate of a strain. I asked Dr. Fix how
long some strains can be stored and he responded that some like
34/70 (a typical German lager strain) are quite stable while the
American ale yeast that lots of use is quite unstable. The key is to
feed it every few weeks in storage, ie let it grow and replenish
the cells strength. Or, you need to brew more often!
Jim Busch
Colesville, Md
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 10:34:52 MST
From: Randy M. Davis <rmdavis@mocan.mobil.com>
Subject: Parallel Yeast Culturing
Adam Rich asked some questions about bottling yeast for later use. Since I
have tried this I thought I would respond.
>My question is mainly on the method of storage, and the subsequent pitching.
>I plan to store this in the 12 ounce grolsch bottles. Can I merely sanatize
>as I usually would for bottling beer (1-step oxidizer with no rinse)?
I store mine in standard beer bottles that I have prepared in the same fashion
as I do for bottling a batch of beer. I use my dishwasher but if your usual
method works for beer it should work for yeast too.
>Next, can I store these in the cupboard, like a normal beer, or do I need to
>refrigerate them? I figure that I will have 4-6 bottles and I will more
>then likely use them over the following 6 monthes.
I would recommend refrigerated storage but remember what you have here is
simply a very yeasty beer. It should survive at higher temperatures but just
not as long as it would if refrigerated, just like "drinking" beer. Try to use
it up sooner if you cannot keep it cooled.
>When I use these 'starter bottles' do I merely pitch them into 5 gallons of
>wort, the usual method for using the Wyeast yeast, or should I prepare a
>starter that is a larger volume?
I treat the 'starter bottle' just as I do a package of liquid yeast. I always
start the yeast in the package and then move it to a larger starter medium.
There will likely be a larger quantity of yeast in the bottle than in a package
but still not nearly enough for pitching. Also, during storage the yeast is
dying, the longer it is stored the fewer living cells remain. I prepare a
starter in a wine bottle equipped with an airlock, pour off most of the 'beer'
from the bottle of yeast (it has settled nicely) and transfer it into the wine
bottle. You may also step this starter up to a larger volume.
>Can I merely use the dregs from my secondary (is this is the so-called 'trub'?)
>for a second batch?
I have used (and still do) trub to start a next batch but only from the primary.
At the end of primary fermentation most of the yeast is alive and well and
still looking for food. At the end of a secondary ferment there is a larger
proportion of dead cells in the same amount of sediment.
>I have never aerated my wort before pitching the yeast. How much of a problem
>could this be?
I only recently started to aerate at pitching time and still do not have a
serious approach, relying on agitation rather than a pump or special equipment.
I have reason to believe I have seen a reduction in lag time since trying to
get more oxygen into the wort. The most noticeable example was not a beer but
a fairly high gravity melomel which took off much quicker that usual. I had
stirred and splashed it until it became tedious. Prior to deliberate aeration I
was still making good beer so don't sweat it. As I understand it, aeration is
most important to achieving a quick and healthy start to fermentation.
- --
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Randy M. Davis rmdavis@mocan.mobil.com Calgary Canada (403)260-4184 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 13:01:44 -0500
From: Dave Coombs <coombs@cme.nist.gov>
Subject: Re: parallel yeast culturing questions
It's REALLY easy to reuse yeast in successive batches, as has been
noted here at various times (the earliest I recall was by "Father
Barleywine"). You merely bottle batch N while boiling batch N+1 and
dump wort N+1 into the vessel holding the dregs of batch N.
I have done this for 4 successive batches, and it's great! Every
batch after the first took off like mad ovenight. If you use a
secondary fermenter you'll have cleaner dregs. I scheduled my
batches from lightest to heaviest, but I don't know if this is
really critical.
dave
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 13:03:09 -0500
From: TWideman@aol.com
Subject: Re: Run With The Wolves
In HBD#1584, kit.anderson@acornbbs.com writes:
>>>Instead of throwing away those torn pantyhose , just stretch the
>>>good leg over the top of your brewpot and filter out the
>>>wort from the trub. Just pour away and aerate the hell out of
>>>that gyle. You'll get better fermentations from it too! ! !
(((((((((((((((((((( Insert any )))))))))))))))))))))))
((((((( hmm-that's-certainly-an-alternative-way )))))))
(((((((((((( to-pitch-a-strange-wild-yeast ))))))))))))
((((((((((((((((((((( joke here )))))))))))))))))))))))
Seriously, great article! My wife and I loved it!
Regards,
Tom Wideman (TWideman@aol.com)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 08:58:26 PST
From: kim.meeks@octel.com
Subject: New York Area Brewpubs
My spousal-equivalent and I will be visiting some friends in New
Jersey for Thanksgiving and certainly traveling into New York City at
some point during our trip. Can anyone suggest some brewpubs in the
city or in the Passaic or Bergen areas of Jersey?
Reply private e-mail to kim.meeks@octel.com
TIA,
Kim
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 13:11:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH@kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH@kbs.msu.edu>
Subject: Priming Question
Hello,
I am happy to report that the porter described in the posting from about 2
weeks ago entitled "My Virgin Mash" is coming along VERY nicely. If I don't
mess it up bottling, it will be the best beer I've made and a very
respectable brew all the way around. Which brings me to today's question
about priming for bottling....
I like to use DME to prime. I usually boil about 1.25-1.33 cups of DME in
about 3 cups water and add it to an empty sanitized carboy. I then siphon
over the fermented beer and proceed with bottling. My problem(s) is(are)
inconsistent carbonation from bottle to bottle and generally low carbonation.
I thought this method was supposed to increase consistency! I've even
increased the amount of DME to the point where I should be getting high
carbonation, but it always turns out medium to low and varies quite a bit
within a batch. I assume the problem stems from inadequate mixing of the
priming sugar with the beer or stratification, but I've been reluctant to
stir in the fear of introducing oxygen. Please help me make this porter
truly exceptional by suggesting solutions to this bottling dilemna. Thanks
very much for any info and, as always, private mail is cool.
BTW, after I bottle and age it a little, I'll post a tasting profile (within
my limited vocabulary to describe it) and re-post the recipe if anyone wants
to give it a try. I am also happy to report that I have done 2 more partial
mashes in the meantime. Both are hybrid pales with some coriander(!) and
orange peel experimentation. These were also my first attempt at dry-hopping
and using rice or wheat malt as adjuncts. So many possibilities and so
little time! I'll post recipes and protocols as tastiness of the brews
dictates. I now can boast a grand
total of 15 glorious gallons fermenting away. Life is sweet! Bottling,
however, will bite----I would love to keg, but going all-grain has broken the
bank! My wife thinks I'm obsessed and in need of professional help! I think
she needs a homebrew. ;)
Anyway... thanks again and watch for future recipes. Bye!
Bones
===================
tim laatsch
laatsch@kbs.msu.edu
kalamazoo, mi
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 10:22:19 PST
From: "Peter Hadikin (HDIP9235)" <HDIP9235@BCITVM.BCIT.BC.CA>
Subject: Malt extract
FROM: Peter Hadikin (HDIP9235)
(604) 432-8452
I have several cans of malt extract that I have had for about 2 1/2 years. I
am wondering if they are still okay to use or if they should be tossed. Is
there any way to tell if the extract is usable? Any tips would be appreciated.
Have a super week, Peter.
BC Institute of Technology
Computer Resources
3700 Willingdon Avenue
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 13:35:08 -0500
From: RLANCASTER@ntia.doc.gov
Subject: Geneva beer sources
Just got back from about 10 days in Geneva, the place suggested by
"longmore", is named Haefliger, but they no longer have a beer menu.
Had about 5 types, some dark, not bad. The only place with a choice
of many, including Belgian beers, was the Lord Nelson's Pub in the
old town. Get there before 8 PM for beer label reading, it gets too
smokey after that to read or taste anything! Thanks for the tips.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 13:46:10 -0500
From: "A. Bruce Dotson" <abd8p@virginia.edu>
Subject: Time in fermenter
Approximately one month ago I started a batch of dark English ale using a
canned extract. I followed the instructions and added 2.5 pounds of sugar
to my extract, yeast and water mixture. It has now been a month and I am
still waiting for the bubbler to stop bubbling. A week ago a bubble was
released every 1.5 minutes. Today the rate is one every 3.5 minutes. I had
expected that the bubbles would have stopped completely weeks ago as had
been the case with other batches I had brewed several years ago. Is the
beer ready to bottle or should I wait longer in order to avoid bursting
bottles after I add a teaspoon of additional sugar at the time of bottling
to each bottle. ANY ADVICE? ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS PHENOMENON?
`THANKS
Bruce Dotson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 13:42:19 -0600 (CST)
From: Rich Larsen <rlarsen@free.org>
Subject: SS Heat Transfer
Does any one know if the heat transfer rate of 403 Stainless Steel (that
which kegs are made of) is suffcient enough that a thermostat sensor
could be placed on the side of the keg under some insulation and expect a
rapid enough reading to be reliable?
Assuming of course the contents in the keg are in constant motion so the
contact of the contents to the side are always changing.
=> Rich (rlarsen@squeaky.free.org)
_______________________________________________________________________
(c) Rich Larsen, 1994 * Also on HomeBrew University (708) 705-7263
"I never drink... wine" Bela Lugosi as Dracula
_______________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 12:35:39 MST
From: npyle@hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM
Subject: Isomerization/Stepping Up Starters/Brew Day/IBUs!!
Doing some catching up. This is long and multi-faceted:
I received the following in private email and I felt it deserved to be
discussed on-line. I feel this is the type of topic that is ideal for
discussion on the HBD. I'm sorry, but I erased the email message
inadvertantly so all I know about the sender is that his name is John from
Colorado Springs and he works at Atmel.
J>In HBD 1582 you say in responce to Doug's question.
J>
N>You don't say how you chilled and how long it took, which is
N>a major factor in accurate IBU estimates. If it takes 30 minutes or more to
N>chill the beer, this will certainly affect the utilization, and throw off the
N>estimates.
J>
J>At this year's National Homebrewers Conference I asked Mark Garetz about this.
J>He stated that no additional bitterness was added to the wort once the boil
J>was stopped. I too felt, as you do, that not knowing how the wort was cooled
J>made it difficult to read a recipe and convert it to my brew setup. I did not
J>ask him at the time to backup this statement with data but he seemed pretty
J>confident in it's validity. Just a data point.
Mark may have been confident but that doesn't make him right. Certainly
agitation increases the rate of isomerization of the alpha acids, and
therefore the lack of this turbulence will reduce the rate. OTOH, there is
little doubt in my mind that some isomerization is going on when the heat is
off but the temperatures still elevated.
This is not just theory. When I switched from an immersion chiller to a
counterflow chiller I had to change my procedure for this very reason. The
immersion chiller brought the entire volume down probably 40F in the first
5-10 minutes. The counterflow quickly chills a small amount of wort at a
time but leaves the remainder at near boiling temps for the entire time it
takes to drain the volume. I noticed significantly more bitterness in my
recipes after this change. When I say significant, I mean just that. It was
noticeable; it was not drastic, but it was significant.
This is just a small bit of data, but I too am confident. That doesn't make
me correct either, but I believe logic and common sense are on my side.
**
Jeff Michalski writes:
>........................The best solution is to begin
>your starter more than one week before you plan to brew
>and step it up at least twice to get an adequate cell
>count for pitching into the chilled wort.
I've had this question for quite some time about stepping up your starters.
What's the point? For ales OR lagers, why bother stepping up the starter
size? If my final goal is two quarts of starter, I'll just make a two-quart
starter and pitch the Wyeast right into it. Going from a pint to a quart to
two quarts (for example) seems like wasted effort to me. If the answer is
"lag time in the starter", I can see some concern but not a big one. What am
I missing?
**
Mike Inglis writes a nice summary of his "brew day". The only thing I would
suggest changing is:
>My 5.5 gals. of sparge water are acidified with 100ml of a
>Lactic Acid solution (.75 cup water + 1/2 tsp 80% Lactic Acid) to bring
>the pH down to ~5.3, and then heated up to 175F.
I see no reason to acidify your sparge water, especially since you preboil
the water. It should be fairly soft and the pH of the runnings, not the
sparge water, is what's really important. I'd leave out this step and see
if you notice a difference.
If you decide to do a counterflow chiller, I recommend the Phil Phittings or
whatever they're called. I saw them at the local store and thought they
looked good. Come to think of it, I didn't notice the price, but assuming
they're not outside of reality, it seems like it a good investment. Hunting
around for all the right connections isn't always easy, and this setup makes
it simple.
**
Gary Bell writes about his recipe:
>*Note: The hopping above gives the following IBU's based on different
>calculation methods: (1) SudsW 43.2,(2) Rager 75.7, (3) Tinseth 66.9,
>(4) Garetz 56.7, (5) Papazian 58.9
I haven't checked any of these numbers, but if this is true, it is surely
sad. Now I see why Miller claims that using HBUs are as good as using the
IBU formulae.
Cheers,
Norm in Longmont, Colorado
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 12:51:00 PST
From: "Vandermey, John" <JAVANDER@p06.dasd.honeywell.com>
Subject: RE:O2 and flammability
Mark writes:
<<If you bubble pure O2 for 20-60 minutes and only end up with 8 mg/l
<<DO, what happens to the rest of the O2? I think this is where the
<<actual danger lies. I don't think anyone ever implied that the beer
<<could ever catch fire. Caution certainly seems to be in order.
Jim replys:
<Caution yes, but lets be pratical here. You have a room with dimensions
<of say, 12x12'. Thats about 144*8 cubic feet of air or, 1152 cubic feet
Technical evaluation of O2 content in a given space deleted.
< ... I say relax.
If you know what you are doing, and how to handle a high pressure O2
cylinder, and realize how much O2 you are putting into your environment,
then I say go ahead and aerate your wort this way.
A LOT of people have no idea about the dangers of high O2 environments, and
I just wanted to make a warning statement for people concidering this. If 2
psi through a 3/8" hose for 10 mins in your open carport is good, then 20
psi through a garden hose for an hour in your enclosed kitchen is a lot
better, right? I don't think so... We've now crossed the safety margin.
I just wanted to let people know that they should know what they're doing
BEFORE they start messing with O2. Blanket safety statements do not always
apply.
BTW, you calculated the O2 increase in a 12X12 room assuming constant
airflow around the room. In reality, you're going to end up with a high
concentration of O2 around your fermentor/pot (whereever you're aerating)
which will disipate into the room at a slower rate.
John Vandermey (javander@p06.dasd.honeywell.com
vandermeyj@delphi.com
johnvan@abq-ros.com)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 14:15 EST
From: Eric Hale <S=Eric_Hale%S=Hale%G=Eric%I=ER%BECHTEL@mcimail.com>
Subject: Heineken Recipe
No Frank Booth (that's Dennis Hopper's character in *Blue Velvet*)
quotes please, but I got a friend who's looking for a recipe to duplicate
Heineken. I checked Cat's Meow and some other recipe lists with no luck.
Please reply here or by Email to 6465348@mcimail.com.
TIA,
Eric Hale
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Why do we park on driveways and drive on parkways? |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 14:58:27 -0600 (CST)
From: "Ginger Wotring, Pharm/Phys" <WOTRING@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU>
Subject: Last chance for a Happy Holiday
Last chance to enter! Fame and cool prizes could be yours!
The St Louis Brews are pleased to announce the Happy Holidays
Homebrew Competition! This is an AHA sanctioned event, using the standards
and categories provided by the AHA, with the addition of one special beer
style, Christmas Brau. This is a winter warmer/kitchen sink type beer, with
OG > 1.060, >3 malts, >4 hops, at least one adjunct. The Happy Holidays
Homebrew Competition is part of the Midwest Homebrewer of the Year challenge,
as well.
Entries are due by 5pm 29 Nov. Judging will be held on the afternoon of
10 December, with a banquet and award ceremony following.
- --
Ginger Wotring, HHHC coordinator
internet: wotring@sluvca.slu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 13:18:02 PST
From: Bob W Surratt <Bob_W_Surratt@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Humor and Good Luck Combo
Text item: Humor and Good Luck Combo
______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Humor and Good Luck Combo
Author: Cecelia M Lakatos at FMCCM19
Date: 11/17/94 4:29 PM
WHY ASK WHY
Why do you need a driver's license to buy liquor when you can't drink and
drive?
Why isn't phonetic spelled the way it sounds?
Why are there interstate highways in Hawaii?
Why are there floatation devices under plane seats instead of parachutes?
Why are cigarettes sold in gas stations when smoking is prohibited there?
Do you need a silencer if you are going to shoot a mime?
Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations?
How does the guy who drives the snowplow get to work in the mornings?
If 7-11 is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, why are there locks on the
doors?
If a cow laughed, would milk come out her nose?
If nothing ever sticks to TEFLON, how do they make TEFLON stick to the pan?
If you tied buttered toast to the back of a cat and dropped it from a
height, what would happen?
If you're in a vehicle going the speed of light, what happens when you turn
on the headlights?
You know how most packages say "Open here". What is the protocol if the
package says, "Open somewhere else"?
Why do they put Braille dots on the keypad of the drive-up ATM?
Why do we drive on parkways and park on driveways?
Why is it that when you transport something by car, it's called a shipment,
but when you transport something by ship, it's called cargo?
You know that little indestructible black box that is used on planes, why
can't they make the whole plane out of the same substance?
Why is it that when you're driving and looking for an address, you turn
down the volume on the radio?
Did you know who in 1923 was:
1. President of the largest steel company?
2. President of the largest gas company?
3. President of the New York Stock Exchange?
4. Greatest wheat speculator?
5. President of the Bank of International Settlement?
6. Great Bear of Wall Street?
These men should have been considered some of the world's most successful
men. At least they found the secret of making money. Now more than 55
years later, do you know what has become of these men?
1. The President of the largest steel company, Charles Schwab, died a
pauper.
2. The President of the largest gas company, Edward Hopson, is insane.
3. The President of the N.Y.S.E., Richard Whitney, was released from
prison to die at home.
4. The greatest wheat speculator, Arthur Cooger, died abroad, penniless.
5. The President of the Bank of International Settlement shot himself.
6. The Great Bear of Wall Street, Cosabee Rivermore, died of suicide.
The same year, 1923, the winner of the most important golf championship,
Gene Sarazan, won the U.S. Open and PGA Tournaments. Today he is
still playing golf and is solvent.
CONCLUSION: STOP WORRYING ABOUT BUSINESS AND START PLAYING GOLF
This letter originated in The Netherlands, has been passed around the world
at least 20 times, bringing good luck to everyone who passed it on. The
one who breaks the chain will have bad luck.
Do not keep this letter. Do not send money. Just have your
wonderful, efficient cpu make five additional copies and send it to five of
your friends to whom you wish good luck. You will see that something good
happens to you four days from now if the chain is not broken. This is not
a joke. You will receive good luck in four days.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 16:43:19 EST
From: "Harralson, Kirk" <kwh@roadnet.ups.com>
Subject: Iodine concentration, again...
The latest catalog from William's Brewing describes their iodine
sanitizer (BTF) to "make up to 18 gallons of working solution at 25
PPM iodine, the level necessary to sanitize" and that it must be
"rinsed with water (necessary to remove toxic iodine traces)". I
thought the necessary level was 12.5 PPM and, at this level, it did
not need (and should not have) a rinse. I researched back issues of
the HBD, and it looks like a lot of people are doing the same. Back
in 1523, Pierre Jelenc wrote that 5 PPM of free iodine must be
achieved, which usually occurs at 12.5 PPM of free iodine with most
brands; higher concentrations were not necessary due to the buffering
effect. Could this particular brand have a lower free iodine content
which would necessitate using it at 25 PPM, or are the authors just
being over cautious? I like the idea of using iodophors exclusively
to sanitize, without rinsing. If I have to rinse, I might as well go
back to bleach. Also, when using iodophors without a rinse, I know
that air drying is a necessity. Just how dry is dry enough? I
usually sanitize my carboy during the mash, and just let it sit
through the remainder of the brew day. Still, this leaves some
residue in the bottom that I shake out as completely as possible. Is
this too much? Does it have to be *completely* bone dry? If so,
should I sanitize the night before and let the carboy sit uncovered
over night? I wouldn't feel very comforable leaving it exposed to the
air that long.
Kirk Harralson
Bel Air, Maryland
kwh@roadnet.ups.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 94 17:31:01+010
From: burzlaff@lisisun.univ-lyon1.fr (Maxime BURZLAFF)
Subject: WWW site with extract recipes
Hi all.
For those of you with access to Mosaic that haven't seen my annouce
on r.c.b, here's the address of a Mosaic page listing extract recipes.
I gathered the recipes mainly from the HBD archives, so if some of you
recognize their recipes I would gladly hear of your impressions on how
they turned out :). I think I credited everybody, but if you see a mistake
please let me know.
So feel free to try and comment :
http://www710.univ-lyon1.fr/~burzlaff/Recettes.html
A bit of history : newbie at brewing (3rd batch on its way), I don't really have
the time to do all grain, so I searched extract recipes ... Now of course it
is almost impossible to find the different extracts/hops/yeast in France, so
I don't have much use for them :(. BTW am I the only frenchman here ? :)
If you don't have Mosaic access let me know and I can send you the text file
(38 Kb in Mosaic format, so less in text, for 38 recipes).
And of course feel free to send me your own recipes (just no all-grain) and
how they turned out.
Max mad
------------------------------
Date: 21 Nov 94 20:06:00 GMT
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Mike's process/cookers and scorching/request for European accomodations
Mike writes about his brewing process (which is very much like my
current setup, except that I don't have the counterspace or a high
enough ceiling to have the bottom tier (the kettle) on the stove,
so I have the hot liquor tank up high, the mashtun on the stove and
the kettle on the floor) and includes:
>The day before brewing,
>I boil 8.5 gallons of water for mash and sparge. I have very hard water
>here in Santa Clara and have found a great advantage in removing most of
>the carbonates.
and
>include all grist that
>will be mashed (including any CaraPils and excluding any darker
>specialty malts).
I'd just like to suggest that if you are brewing a dark beer, like a
stout or robust porter, you may want to not pre-boil the water and you
may then want to include the dark malts in the mash. High-carbonate water
(like that in Dublin, London and Munich) will balance the acidity of the
dark malts and give a smoother, less acidic beer. If the pH is too high
even with the dark malts, you may want to pre-boil half the water and
mix it with some straight water.
********
My biggest complaint about my current system is the time it takes to
heat things up. My stove has rather hefty burners (12,000 BTU) for a
home stove, but they are candles compared to cajun cookers. I'm thinking
about several solutions, including buying a cooker, but I've got my
wife's buy-in to adding a home brewery when we expand the house and I'll
probably get a commercial stove for it. I'm assuming I'll be able to get
something like 30,000 BTUs and a lot finer control than with a cooker, no?
I may also install a cooker just for heating sparge water, especially if
I decide to go with a 1/2 bbl. brewlength.
Can those of you who have recently switched to a cajun cooker-type heat,
comment on whether you experienced a significant increase in:
- color,
- scorching (toasty flavours), or
- other flavours.
Golden Prairie Brewing Company, here in Chicago, is a very small micro
(3bbl brewlength) and Ted Furman uses a 100,000 BUT wok burners for his
mashtun and kettle, but his beer has a toasty flavour. I've theorized
that this toasty flavour is associated with the wok burners. It's not that
I mind the flavour in general, but would not want it in all my beers. Is
it possible to lower the heat on these cookers without sooting?
**********
My wife and I are planning a trip to the Continent (and possibly also a
swing over to London for the GBBF) and would like recommendations (via
private email) of accomodations in/near the following cities: Vienna, Munich,
Dusseldorf, Koeln, Brugge, Brussels and London. This last summer, when
we made our whirlwind tour of Britain, we stayed in some really nice inns.
They had far more character and were about half the price of hotels. These
are the kind of accomodations we are looking for. Spartan, but clean. The
BTA (British Tourist Authority) has brochures that list hundreds of
inns. We were not disappointed with a single one. If there are similar
types of brochures (in English, preferably) for Austria, Germany and Belgium,
I'm not aware of them. I'm seeking advice to avoid the problem I had with a
budget hotel in Munich five years ago (dirty, bug-infested). If anyone else
is planning a similar trip, send me email and I'll send you a copy of what I
collect. Thanks!
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 19:01:48 -0500 (EST)
From: MYETTE@delphi.com
Subject: Sam Adams Triple Bock
Anyone have any ideas how the "Sam Adam's Triple Bock" beer is made or have a
recipe to make a close clone?
17.5% Alcohol---- It made the Guiness Book of World Records!
Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 1994 23:31:00 GMT
From: jeff.guillet@lcabin.com (Jeff Guillet)
Subject: Free Crates
Robert W. Mesh writes:
H>My Boxes too have been falling apart at an incrediable rate. Im going
H>to try getting the "Generic" Crates sold at K-Mart, Wall-Mart, Etc.
H>however, ive been having no luck either. Im considering making a
H>"case" out of that thin balsa/paneling type wood, that is relitivly
H>cheap. If it works, Ill let everyone know.
I've got a better idea. Go to your local wine shop and ask if they have
any empty wine boxes. These boxes are made of wood, usually rough
unfinished wood and are made to hold 12 bottles of wine. They have
wooden dividers in them that I have found to make great kindling for my
fireplace (but I digress). These boxes are well constructed and are
easy to carry. Best of all, they're usually glad to GIVE them to you!
-=Jeff=-
Internet: jeff.guillet@lcabin.com (Written on 11/21/94 at 3:29PM)
* CMPQwk 1.42-16 - Reg # 1757
* I'm immortal...so far. - Earle Robinson
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1585, 11/22/94
*************************************
-------
