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HOMEBREW Digest #1538
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/09/28 00:47:45
HOMEBREW Digest #1538 Wed 28 September 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
King Cooker Use (Mark Montminy)
Colorado Brewpubs (tmarcus)
New Orleans (MTL) <fcost@ARL.MIL>
Carboy crates (Henson W.C.(Bill))
Too fresh hops (Bob Jones)
Yeast/Temps/??? ("Todd M. McGuinness")
Private email netiquette (uswlsrap)
Aeration equipment (Jay Lonner)
Re: Re. kegging (Dion Hollenbeck)
cider in plastic? (RONALD MOUCKA)
Keg carbonation (Gordon Baldwin)
Using the yeast faq in local newsletters. (Patrick Weix)
Re: homegrown hops (Jeff Benjamin)
Yeast re-use / Yeast FAQ (It's mine-Go Away! :-) (Patrick Weix)
Plumbing parts for SS kegs ("Palmer.John")
Brazilian Red?? (Mark Alf)
High-gravity fruit beer ? (Mark Worwetz)
Subscription (Lee Reither)
Aeration Equipment (Martin Lodahl)
starting out (Philip Bollman)
failing to find 'phor, fussy fermentation (Gee Starr)
Steam, Glorious Steam (Martin Lodahl)
Harpoon Octoberfest ("Terence McGravey {91942}")
Canadian commercial cider questions (michael j dix)
Step mashing (Matt_K)
be published (John Kenny)
Phil's Philler (fleck)
******************************************************************
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 10:01:28 EDT
From: Mark Montminy <markm@merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com>
Subject: King Cooker Use
I've been watching the digest for a followup, but haven't seen one...
I just recently moved out to the garage doing full (extract) boils
using a King Cooker, and have two questions:
- What's the best way to control the flame? I've got both the
adjustable regulator, and the adjustable venturi (?) on the casting.
I get a nice blue flame by either turning up the regulator, or opening
up the venturi to allow more air. Both sound like they're consuming
propane like mad :)
- How does one keep the "trub" from burning on the bottom of the pot?
Or is this just something to live with? I get a nice circle where the
flame is of burnt "stuff". I'm assuming it's hops and grain particles
from the pellets and specialty grains. Should I just deal with it and
scrub the pot clean when done, or can I avoid this?
Any other general advice on using this puppy is more than welcome.
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Internet: | Fidonet:
markm@merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com | mark_montminy@bloomco.bilow.uu.ids.net
Motorola Codex (617)821-7187 | The Bloom Beacon BBS (508)399-7536
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just remember: when you go to court, you are trusting your fate to
twelve people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 09:35:55
From: tmarcus@aspect.dmc.com
Subject: Colorado Brewpubs
hello all,
I will be flying into Denver on Oct. 15th and heading up to Rocky
Mountain National Park via Boulder to do some backpacking. I'll be
returning to Denver on the 21st and have already got my AHA tickets to
the GABF. Does anyone have any brewpub suggestions for the trip
between Denver and RMNP.
e-mail direct is fine. I'll post a summary or send direct if there is
any interest.
TIA - Todd A. Marcus - tmarcus@aspect.dmc.com
Brewito Ergo Sum!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 10:09:37 EDT
From: Fred Cost (MTL) <fcost@ARL.MIL>
Subject: New Orleans
Fellow Homebrewers,
Three homebrewers in a group of five people are heading to New Orleans from
6 - 11 October for nothing but fun. I've been there once, and am a bit
familiar with Bourbon St. What else should we do and see? Is the Dixie
Brewery worth seeing? Any tips on swamp tours, riverboats, etc.? Please send
private email to the address below.
TIA,
Fred
fcost@arl.army.mil
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:00:27 -0500
From: awchrd2@peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill))
Subject: Carboy crates
I have seen several postings on the dangers of moving and handling full
carboys. I have crates that I made for all my carboys. These are made from
firring(sp?) strips purchased from the local lumber yard. I make the crates
tall enough so that I can stack them ( I have 6) in the space of two. It
makes moving and lifting a full carboy very easy, also I can store clean
ones upside down to keep out dust. If anyone is interested in details,
please private E-Mail, if response is high I'll post.
Regards,
awchrd2@peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill))
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 07:57:32 +0900
From: bjones@novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones)
Subject: Too fresh hops
As David Sapsis says in a recent post, regarding the use of wet hops,
>Distinct flavors of pine/citrus, somewhat reminiscent of grapefruit are all
>over the wet-hopped sample.
About a year ago Mr. Fresh Hops (Mark Garetz) came over for a little beer
talk and a few brews. He brought along a beer for tasting. I tasted it and
told Mark the hops were too fresh! He about passed out. This is the first
time I have every experienced this. The flavors and smells were as Davis
says pine/citris and grapefruity. Now as far as fresh hops goes, Mark does a
bang up job. Maybe too good a job in some cases? This really is a rare
thing. I would not expect this to happen in almost any case where we as
consumers are buying hops that are either shipped or stored for any length
of time. Now as for those fresh off the vine hops some of you are growing,
user beware.
Bob Jones
bjones@novax.llnl.gov
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:10:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Todd M. McGuinness" <tmmpci@Mcs.Net>
Subject: Yeast/Temps/???
Hbers,
I am not certain whether it is me but today my HBD was all messed up.
What happened? I also didn't get a reply on my question about a
Raspberry Wheat recipe using all fresh ingreds, and All-grains. Any one???
Bueller, Bueller, Bueller?
Also would like to ask again for any Attenuation info on Wiehenstephen
Wyeast, yeast bag???
Hey can we stop going off about Demera already. ;-)
Private response O.K.
TIA
Todd
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 11:09:15 EDT
From: uswlsrap@ibmmail.COM
Subject: Private email netiquette
- ----------------------- Mail item text follows ---------------
To: I1010141--IBMMAIL
From: Bob Paolino
Research Analyst
Subject: Private email netiquette
One way to be a "contributor" to hbd is to respond to brewers' questions
by private email if the response would appear to be of limited general
interest to the group.
I've posted questions, answered questions, and received answers to my
own questions from others who took the time to reply. Sometimes when I
answer questions by private email, I wonder if they are ever received.
(I know that a decent mailer will offer the option of an automatic
confirmation message, but not everyone--myself included--has access to a
decent mailer.)
If you post a question and get an answer by private email, a brief reply
is a good courtesy to observe. You don't have to gush with thanks, just
let the person know you got it. (At the very least, it tells the sender
s/he can delete the original message and avoid clutter.) I usually try
to thank a sender for a reply, but sometimes I forget also. I'll try to
observe my own advice.
Now, a question for you folks in the Nutmeg State:
I'd previously asked for recommendations on breweries/BPs in Hartford,
as well as elsewhere in Connecticut and Rhode Island. I repeat my thanks
for the suggestions. The trip still isn't for a couple weeks, and it
occurred to me that it would be helpful to know about stores in Hartford
where I can expect to find a good selection (preferably at decent
prices) of Northeastern brews to take back with me. I know that the
concept of decent beer prices in Connecticut is oxymoronic, at least
compared to Upstate New York, but I won't be back there until the
holidays, so I'll live with Connecticut prices for the moment.
Private email, of course. Thanks!
Bob Paolino
Disoriented in Badgerspace
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 08:22:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Lonner <8635660@NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU>
Subject: Aeration equipment
Whoa, Monday's HBD sucked big-time! What happened?
But one thing that cropped up in that issue was GubGuy's question about
aeration equipment. I too am interested in finding a source for an in-line
activated charcoal filter. Not finding one is what has kept me from using an
aquarium pump to date. But in the meantime one of the neatest tricks I've
learned on the HBD is the construction and use of an aeration wand. What it is
is a piece of racking cane with a bunch of small holes drilled near one end.
When racking from boiler to primary, stick the undrilled end of this into the
fermenter, and connect the holey end to your racking hose. When you start your
siphon this will draw lots of air into the wort -- it's like a carburator for
wort.
I used to have occasional problems with stuck fermentations, but since using
this device I've had no trouble at all. Best of all it's cheap -- free, even,
for those who have broken racking canes lying around (and who doesn't). I
don't know whose idea this was originally, but whoever you are, thanks!
Jay.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 08:40:52 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Re. kegging
>>>>> "Stan" == Stan Fisher <stanf@indirect.com> writes:
>>> Question: What CO2 pressure/time-length is needed to artificially
>>> carbonate 5 gallons O'beer?
>>>
>>> (the keg is refrigerated, the CO2 is not, and the beer was primed
>>> with ~1 cup malt extract for several weeks and had pressure when I
>>> initially tapped it)
>> No problem. Pressure up to 35 to 40 psi and shake for several minutes.
>> Then let the beer settle for several hours before bleeding down the
>> pressure and sampling.
Stan> Ouch! Does anyone have the "Volumes of CO2" chart in ascii to
Stan> post or mail to these folks? 35 to 40 psi is a roll of the
Stan> dice! If you shake too long you've got a gusher if you shake to
Stan> short (time) you're still flat.
Usually I just mail the chart to people when they ask this type of
question, but there have been so many questions on carbonating, I
guess it is time to post it. The credit for the chart goes to someone
else, I just have archived it.
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
While we're on the subject of kegging and pressure, I've come up with a
formula and a table for determining what pressure to apply to achieve a
certain carbonation level. I believe that this table is more useful
compared to the other table that has appeared on the HBD and elsewhere.
It's smaller (fits easily in an 80 column window), but contains all the
needed information in a more obvious arrangement. (It makes more sense
to me to ask "what pressure do I need" rather than "what do I get if I
use this pressure"). Besides, it can do any temperature.
You can print the table out and stick it in your brewing logbook or on
the side of your kegs.
TABLE
Look at the row that corresponds to your keg temperature, and read the
number at the column corresponding to the desired carbonation level.
That number is the pressure to apply to the beer, in PSI.
PRESSURE REQUIRED FOR DESIRED CARBONATION
Volumes of CO2 desired
Temp 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0
32F 3.5 4.4 5.4 6.3 7.3 8.2 9.2 10.1 11.0 12.0 12.9
34F 4.3 5.3 6.3 7.3 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.2 12.1 13.1 14.1
36F 5.1 6.2 7.2 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.2 12.3 13.3 14.3 15.3
38F 6.0 7.0 8.1 9.1 10.2 11.2 12.3 13.3 14.4 15.4 16.5
40F 6.8 7.9 9.0 10.1 11.2 12.3 13.4 14.4 15.5 16.6 17.7
42F 7.7 8.8 10.0 11.1 12.2 13.3 14.4 15.5 16.7 17.8 18.9
44F 8.6 9.7 10.9 12.1 13.2 14.4 15.5 16.7 17.8 19.0 20.1
46F 9.5 10.7 11.8 13.0 14.2 15.4 16.6 17.8 19.0 20.2 21.3
48F 10.4 11.6 12.8 14.0 15.3 16.5 17.7 18.9 20.1 21.4 22.6
50F 11.3 12.5 13.8 15.0 16.3 17.6 18.8 20.1 21.3 22.6 23.8
52F 12.2 13.5 14.8 16.1 17.3 18.6 19.9 21.2 22.5 23.8 25.1
54F 13.1 14.4 15.7 17.1 18.4 19.7 21.1 22.4 23.7 25.0 26.3
56F 14.0 15.4 16.7 18.1 19.5 20.8 22.2 23.6 24.9 26.3 27.6
58F 15.0 16.4 17.8 19.2 20.6 21.9 23.3 24.7 26.1 27.5 28.9
60F 15.9 17.3 18.8 20.2 21.6 23.1 24.5 25.9 27.4 28.8 30.2
62F 16.9 18.3 19.8 21.3 22.7 24.2 25.7 27.1 28.6 30.0 31.5
64F 17.8 19.3 20.8 22.3 23.8 25.3 26.8 28.3 29.8 31.3 32.8
66F 18.8 20.3 21.9 23.4 25.0 26.5 28.0 29.6 31.1 32.6 34.1
68F 19.8 21.4 22.9 24.5 26.1 27.6 29.2 30.8 32.4 33.9 35.5
70F 20.8 22.4 24.0 25.6 27.2 28.8 30.4 32.0 33.6 35.2 36.8
72F 21.8 23.4 25.1 26.7 28.4 30.0 31.6 33.3 34.9 36.5 38.2
74F 22.8 24.5 26.2 27.8 29.5 31.2 32.9 34.5 36.2 37.9 39.5
76F 23.8 25.5 27.2 29.0 30.7 32.4 34.1 35.8 37.5 39.2 40.9
78F 24.9 26.6 28.4 30.1 31.8 33.6 35.3 37.1 38.8 40.5 42.3
80F 25.9 27.7 29.5 31.2 33.0 34.8 36.6 38.3 40.1 41.9 43.7
PRESSURE REQUIRED FOR DESIRED CARBONATION
Volumes of CO2 desired
Temp 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0
01C 4.2 5.2 6.2 7.2 8.1 9.1 10.1 11.1 12.0 13.0 14.0
02C 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 11.0 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.0
03C 5.7 6.8 7.8 8.9 9.9 10.9 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.1 16.1
04C 6.5 7.6 8.6 9.7 10.8 11.9 12.9 14.0 15.1 16.1 17.2
05C 7.3 8.4 9.5 10.6 11.7 12.8 13.9 15.0 16.1 17.2 18.3
06C 8.1 9.2 10.3 11.5 12.6 13.7 14.9 16.0 17.1 18.2 19.4
07C 8.8 10.0 11.2 12.3 13.5 14.7 15.8 17.0 18.2 19.3 20.5
08C 9.6 10.8 12.0 13.2 14.4 15.6 16.8 18.0 19.2 20.4 21.6
09C 10.4 11.7 12.9 14.1 15.4 16.6 17.8 19.0 20.3 21.5 22.7
10C 11.3 12.5 13.8 15.0 16.3 17.6 18.8 20.1 21.3 22.6 23.8
11C 12.1 13.4 14.7 16.0 17.2 18.5 19.8 21.1 22.4 23.7 25.0
12C 12.9 14.2 15.6 16.9 18.2 19.5 20.8 22.1 23.5 24.8 26.1
13C 13.7 15.1 16.4 17.8 19.2 20.5 21.9 23.2 24.5 25.9 27.2
14C 14.6 16.0 17.4 18.7 20.1 21.5 22.9 24.3 25.6 27.0 28.4
15C 15.4 16.8 18.3 19.7 21.1 22.5 23.9 25.3 26.7 28.1 29.6
16C 16.3 17.7 19.2 20.6 22.1 23.5 25.0 26.4 27.8 29.3 30.7
17C 17.1 18.6 20.1 21.6 23.1 24.5 26.0 27.5 29.0 30.4 31.9
18C 18.0 19.5 21.0 22.6 24.1 25.6 27.1 28.6 30.1 31.6 33.1
19C 18.9 20.4 22.0 23.5 25.1 26.6 28.1 29.7 31.2 32.7 34.3
20C 19.8 21.4 22.9 24.5 26.1 27.6 29.2 30.8 32.4 33.9 35.5
21C 20.7 22.3 23.9 25.5 27.1 28.7 30.3 31.9 33.5 35.1 36.7
22C 21.6 23.2 24.9 26.5 28.1 29.8 31.4 33.0 34.6 36.3 37.9
23C 22.5 24.2 25.8 27.5 29.2 30.8 32.5 34.1 35.8 37.5 39.1
24C 23.4 25.1 26.8 28.5 30.2 31.9 33.6 35.3 37.0 38.7 40.3
25C 24.3 26.1 27.8 29.5 31.3 33.0 34.7 36.4 38.1 39.9 41.6
REFERENCE
Volumes of CO2:
British style beers = 2.00 - 2.40
Most other beers = 2.40 - 2.85
High-carbonation beers = 2.85 - 2.95
FORMULA
If you use a spreadsheet or a programmable calculator for your brewing
endeavors, this formula works very well (it was used to create the table):
Pressure = F(Temperature, Volume)
P = -16.6999 - 0.0101059 T + 0.00116512 T^2
+ 0.173354 T V + 4.24267 V - 0.0684226 V^2
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 16:15:35 GMT
From: rmoucka@OMN.COM (RONALD MOUCKA)
Subject: cider in plastic?
Brewers,
Along the same lines as Chris Cooper's question regarding cider in corny
kegs, can you do the same in a plastic carboy? Would the long term
fermentation (2 months) in plastic result in oxidation or acidic cider
in plastic problems? Also, I've heard that the blue tint plastic carboy
I have is a "vinyl" product and not as vulnerable to problems the old
style plastic carboys (clear plastic) were. Any comments?
Thanks,
Ron
rmoucka@omn.com
This message created on OMN BBS (303) 667-1149 data
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 08:52:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: gbaldw@zaphod.usin.com (Gordon Baldwin)
Subject: Keg carbonation
What I use to carbonate my kegs is to refrigerate the carboy before
transfering, then once the keg is full, crank to 30 lbs and shake
inverted for 4 minutes, remove the gas and leave overnight. Works like
a charm. If the carbonation is off I adjust it in the first few glasses.
I tried the lower pressure, but I ended up shaking for about 30 minutes
and I don't have the arm strength for that. Plus over that time period
my beer warms up and the target pressure changes.
Last thursday I brewed my ASCII standard ale using Red Star (they have
cleaned it up a lot in the last few years), and on Saturday I brewed a
wheat. I did the old Father Barlywine trick(where has that dude been?)
of racking the first beer out of the bucket and dumping the second beer
right onto the dregs of the first. Well I pitched at 2pm and had foam to
the top of the bucket by 5pm and by the 10 pm it looked like the foam
was going to take over my workbench. By morning the foam died down and
when I racked it Sunday morning at 10am the sg was down to 1.008 from
1.052. Temperatures were right about 70 in my garage. By this morning
(Monday) it is starting to clear. When I have done this before the beer
has picked up some harsh tones that take a week or so to go away. This
definitely gets my record for the fastest ferment. At this rate I could
keg in 72 hours from the beginning of the brew session. (I think I will
give it more time than that to age)
- --
Gordon Baldwin
gbaldw@usin.com
Olympia Washington
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 08:56:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Patrick Weix <weix@netcom.com>
Subject: Using the yeast faq in local newsletters.
This is for Doug Mewhort in Canada, but it applies to many:
Anyone may use the Yeast Faq in any non-commercial venture. If you're
going to make money, I want my cut! I consider Homebrewing Clubs as
non-profit, even though you may pay for a newsletter. Other magazines
that promote the practice of brewing, but are for profit should
contact me about writing an article. Donations of any amount and
honorary Brew Club memberships are cheerfully accepted but not
required. I put the Yeast Faq together to disseminate information; and
I hope that others find it useful.
The only thing I ask is that I get credit for putting it together, and
that the contributors get credit where noted, i.e. don't edit out my
thanks to save space.
Thanks for asking,
Patrick
"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away."
Tom Waits
/------------------------------------------------------------\
| Patrick Weix weix@netcom.com |
| UT Southwestern Medical Center weix@utsw.swmed.edu |
| 5323 Harry Hines Blvd tel: (214) 648-5050 |
| Dallas, TX 75235 fax: (214) 648-5453 |
\------------------------------------------------------------/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 10:02:07 MDT
From: Jeff Benjamin <benji@hpfcbug.fc.hp.com>
Subject: Re: homegrown hops
David Sapsis <dbsapsis@nature.Berkeley.EDU> writes:
> ...hops are *not* 80% water; that is, there is not 4 times the mass of
> free water as that mass leftover after drying. Consequently, the
> suggestion of using 6 times as much mass of wet hops as dry ones is way
> off base. All hops are measured for moisture using a dry weight basis,
> so 100% MC indicates that hops at this level of moisture are one-half
> water. Thus, assuming all other things equal between wet and dry cones,
> one would use twice as much fresh, wet hops as an equivelent mass of dry
> ones.
I figured this out myself, the hard way. I wish David had posted this
last fall when I made beer with fresh-off-the-vine hops. I had heard
the "hops are 80% water" stat, and so assumed you wanted about 8 times
as much undried hops by weight. Whew. I was a little conservative, and
so ended up using 9 oz of homegrowns off the vine. Not only was this
high to begin with, but I have since (empirically) determined that these
hops are relatively high alpha to start with. I ended up with a wonderful
pale ale that was so bitter that my roommate, who usually quaffs every
homebrew in the house before I even get to taste any (Hi Pat!), doesn't
often care to drink it. It's an ESB^5 -- Extra Super Bitter^5.
I have since used undried hops at a rate of about 2X that of dried, which
matches David's statement above. This has produced excellent results.
As far as flavor goes, I have not noticed much of a difference between
fresh-hopped ales and those made with the same hops that have been dried
first. However, I haven't done any side-by-side comparisons. The beers
I've made have also been quite different from each other, which may have
covered up any slight differences in hop character.
- --
Jeff Benjamin benji@fc.hp.com
Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado
"Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium."
- T.S. Eliot
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 09:03:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Patrick Weix <weix@netcom.com>
Subject: Yeast re-use / Yeast FAQ (It's mine-Go Away! :-)
First, an answer to your question:
>I've been re-pitching yeast from the primary for the last 10 batches or so
>and have noticed that the yeast starts to lose it's ability to floculate
>after about 3 successive re-pitches. I've noticed this with 1007 and 1056
>and was wondering if this was a mutative quality or just due to the fact
>that my initial pitching volume was larger with each batch.
>There was no detectable (at least on my behalf) change in the finished beer
>with 3 re-pitches other than the length of time it took to clear; the 3rd
>batch generally had to be dosed with PVP to get the yeast out of suspension.
>I am considering washing the yeast using Dave's recommended procedure in the
>Yeast FAQ at Sierra, perhaps this will "clear up" my problem.
It may, it depends on how you are ``repitching''. If you are not doing
the yeast washing as detailed in the yeast Faq, then you may be
carrying along debris and whatever. This may be slow to settle out,
although the yeast may be flocculating just fine.
>A quick note on the Yeast FAQ, I've noticed that it is considerably out of
>date, early 1993 I think. I would be glad to update it in both text and HTML
>for the WWW users if I can collect enough detail from all of you about the
>new strains available.
Actually, the yeast Faq was last updated in May of 1994. I recently
put out a call for information, and I will put out another version of
the Faq soon. You must have looked at an out-of-date version. I have
been updating it about twice a year since its inception. The most
recent version can always be found at:
sierra.stanford.edu:/pub/homebrew/docs/yeast.faq.Z
To all who keep copies of the Faq available on WWW:
Please make sure that you have the latest version! I will try to post
a html version to sierra at the time of this next update.
Patrick
------------------------------
Date: 26 Sep 1994 09:15:15 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Plumbing parts for SS kegs
Greg Ames asked about the Types of Stainless steel fittings:
Having just completed my own fact-finding on this subject, I understand what
they are talking about. There are several types of standard fittings made by
various companies. Examples are Swagelock, Cajon and the AN (flare-type). Then
you have your standard compression and National Pipe Thread. I think what
Greg's supplier was wanting to know was what type of connection was he seeking.
I just finished putting together my systems parts over the weekend. I found
that I could easily obtain stainless pipe, but had no end of trouble getting it
threaded. Solution was to purchase copper soldering fittings that were threaded
to NPT for the chrome plated brass ball valve and silver solder those over the
SS pipe. (Get the pipe welded in first.) If you are welding the pipe, make sure
that it is an L grade, suitable for welding (ex. 304L, 316L) or 321 (which is
alloy stabilzed). Your fittings don't need to be a particular stainless unless
you are welding to them. Stainless or Brass work great.
On Greg's question about the difference between copper and brass: Brass is
stronger, harder and machines better, hence its use over copper for threaded
fittings. (Thats where the lead comes in by-the-way, it acts as an intrinsic
lubricant for machining. The lead exists as minute globules within the brass,
and during machining a micro thin film ends up getting smeared over the
surface.) Copper is used for Sweat (solder) fittings because copper can be
easily extruded to form these simple shapes and it solders readily.
There is periodic concern about lead in brass and its potential for toxicity.
When you add up all the factors concerning this for home brewers, you get a
non-problem. The amount of lead on the surface is very small, the contact times
are relativly short, and you only use a couple of small brass fittings anyway.
For the very cautious, I talked to the Chem Lab and they recommended the
following soaking solution to dissove off the surface lead. Glacial Acetic Acid
mixed 1-to-1 with Hydrogen Peroxide. We are talking Lab strength here. I will
conjecture that as this concentration works very well and quickly, then the
non-lab strength grades available from supermarkets and drug stores will also
work, just taking a lot longer. By the way, this solution must be at room temp
or the hydrogen peroxide will degrade.
Anyway, my SS part solution was a 3/8 Ball valve connecting to 3/8 NPT-to-3/8
copper Sweat fitting, Silver soldered to the SS pipe. The 1/2 inch pipe was
welded with fillet welds thru a 1/2 inch hole in the keg. Inside the keg, the
pipe is swaged-out holding a collar and nut that the Flare elbow attaches to.
The elbow is an adapter that has female NPT on the other end, and an
NPT/Compression T fitting hooks up to this. The Compression T fitting attaches
the circular tubing manifold that will run around the inside circumference, to
facilitate whirlpool trub removal in the boiler. In the Mash/Lauter Tun keg,
the same arrangement will have a smaller diameter and be a double loop to get
the manifold away from the keg walls, covering more area under the mash, while
not obstructing the movement of grain on the bottom of the keg. Hopefully, this
will preclude scorching during step mashes.
On ball valves; I have noticed several varieties. Many are imported from Italy.
The ball valve I finally selected was forged brass, chrome plated and used
Teflon seals around the ball. It is manufactured by B&K and distributed by Ace
Hardware. I like it. I mounted it 4 inches out from the keg to get it away from
the heat of the propane burner the keg sits on.
I have had a lot of fun building my system. If anyone has questions on why/how
I did it, feel free to mail me.
John Palmer - Metallurgist for International Space Station Alpha
MDA-SSD M&P palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 09:55:35 -0700
From: alf%elcx.dnet@esu36.ateng.az.honeywell.COM (Mark Alf)
Subject: Brazilian Red??
My friend was at the local brewing supply store last Friday and bought some
'Brazilian Red' dry extract. Does anybody know what this is? He said the guy
in the store didn't know anything other than 'It's new.' It was a dark reddish
brown, coarse powder and it sparkled in the light. Could this possibly be some
kind of unrefined sugar? If you know anything about this, please respond.
Thanks,
Mark Alf
(Alf%eccx.dnet@esu36.ateng.az.honeywell.com)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:56:14 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mark_Worwetz@Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz)
Subject: High-gravity fruit beer ?
Howdy from Zion!
I have just bottled a very tasty high-gravity cherry ale (OG 1.072) and
have a question for the HBD meisters.
I have made several high gravity beers using 9 lbs. Breiss Amber extract,
specialty grains, hops and Wyeast 1338 European Ale. I usually end with
a terminal gravity in the 1.014-1.018 range. This seems quite good for a
brew with such a high OG. With my latest batch, I added 8lbs of cherries
and 1/2 lb raspberries for a fifteen minutes steep at the end of the
boil (ala Papazian). It went through what seemed a very active primary
and secondary fermentation (three weeks total) and finished very clear
and tasty. However, the final gravity is 1.024! This seems quite high
to me (67% attenuation). I have gotten conflicting information about the
fermentability of the cherry and raspberry juice. Is the fruit sugar
fermentable? If so, how much of it is fermentable? I only worry because
if it is fermentable, and the fermentation was just stuck, I may have
created two cases of bottle bombs.
Private responses OK, but I have not seen any mention in the HBD of fruit
fermentability. If all responses are private, I will post a summary.
TIA,
Mark Worwetz
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:12:19 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271@appenine.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: Yeast lifespans
In HBD 1535, John "RaceBrewer@aol.com" Mulvihill asks about the lifespan of a
single cell of yeast. I got to thinking about how to increase the lifespans of
my yeast cultures. What kind of factors influence the lifespans? What steps can
I take to make them last forever? Well, as close to forever as is possible...
Optimum temperatures? pH level? Light environment? Praise singing? What can I
do to keep these buggers alive?
Ever curious,
Rich Webb
------------------------------
Date: 26 Sep 94 10:06:59 -0600
From: Lee.Reither@erpcbbs.mmbbs.mn.org (Lee Reither)
Subject: Subscription
Please cancel my subscription.
Lee.Reither@erpcbbs.mmbbs.mn.org
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:29:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: malodah@pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl)
Subject: Aeration Equipment
In HOMEBREW Digest #1536, Ray Ownby asked:
> ... I need some specifics on wort aeration since I plan
> to make a Belgian White for my next attempt to find Beer Nirvana. As I
> understand it, Belgian beers need much more oxygen than most other kinds.
Why would that be?
> ... I decided to go with an aquarium pump and airstone ...
> ... Miller has a little more, seemingly contradictory information
> on the subject. Refering to the aquarium pump setup, I quote from the book:
> "To use this wort aerator, simply insert it into the airlock opening in your
> starter tank and let the pump run until the headspace is full of foam.
> Repeat this every hour for 5 hours *after* pitching. Then remove the device
> and let the wort settle for about 7 hours before racking the wort off into
> your fermenter." After pitching? Everything I've read on the subject
> says to not introduce oxygen once the yeast has been pitched. So Question
> #1: does anybody follow this method of aeration? If so, has it seemed to
> detrimentally affect your finished product?
First, I don't usually use this method, but I don't see how it could cause a
problem. Following this method, what you'd be essentially doing is keeping
the yeast in their aerobic mode for a longer time than is normally
the case, and as yeast reproduce much more rapidly under those conditions,
you'd be growing up a larger biomass. When you stop feeding it air,
fermentation will begin after the air's depleted. If the wort is
cool when you begin the process, there should be no problem.
> ... I am reluctant to pump room air
> through my cooled wort. The accompanying illustration of this aerator shows
> some kind of in-line filter attatched, but the book makes no mention of this.
> Question #2: What is a good filter material to screen out the nasties
> before they contaminate my precious fluid? And where can it be obtained?
This is a very legitimate concern, in my opinion. I've seen frequent
references to 0.2 micron filters being used for the purpose, but I've
just used the method that I got, if I recall, from Pete Soper, a
much-missed HBD contributor of years ago, and have since seen in a
contribution to Brewing Techniques: A small widemouth bottle with
a 2-hole stopper, a long tube going through one hole that nearly reaches
the bottom, and a short tube in the other hole. Run tubing from the pump
to the long tube, and from the short tube to the airstone. Fill the
bottle about half-way with mild hydrogen peroxide solution or cheap
vodka, and bubble the air through it. Works fine.
- Martin
= Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning Pacific*Bell =
= malodah@pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) =
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 12:37:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Philip Bollman <umbollma@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: starting out
I am just starting out making beer. I have made two batches from a kit and
they turned out ok but not great. I was woundering what I needed to start
making beer, and a recipe for a good but some what simple first batch.
Could you please send the information to one of the addresses below.
Thank you.
______________________________________________________________________________
P. Bollman E-Mail: umbollma@ccu.umanitoba.ca
U of M Computer Engineering ap634@freenet.carleton.ca
______________________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 12:37:34 -0500
From: geestarr@edge.ercnet.com (Gee Starr)
Subject: failing to find 'phor, fussy fermentation
...I've been following the HBD closely for a few months, now. I am a
lurker, not so much out of shyness or lack of community-spirit, but because
when I ~do~ post, my epistles tend to suffer from massive verbal
hemmorhaging, so I sit tight as much as I can. At any rate, Hi There at
last and nice to finally meet you guys in person...
Intermittently over the past several weeks, there has been some discussion
of the merits of Iodaphor versus bleach for sanitizing. I had never heard
of Iodaphor until it popped up here in the HBD, but based on what I've read
so far, I'd like to give it a try. Unfortunately, nobody here on the Third
Coast (Nashville, TN) seems to have heard of it either. Pharmacies and
surgical supply stores simply scratch their head. And the proprietor of
Music City's lone brew store (who, though a kindly fellow, has a
surprisingly cursory knowledge of homebrewing -- reflected in the
frustratingly narrow selection of inventory in his store ... which is yet
another example of why, for this novice extract homebrewer, the HBD has
time and again been a much more valuable source of information than the
flesh-and-blood resources at hand, but I digress exceedingly) well, he has
never heard of the stuff, either.
So I humbly ask the HBD community, where may I find Iodaphor? Is it
available through a mail-order house, perhaps? I confess I am not a reader
of Zymurgy; if last month's issue contained a two page spread advertising
"Uncle Gummo's Iodaphor Warehouse," then I will bear my chagrin as
appropriate.
Oh, and if you have moment, I'd like to trouble whoever e-zaps me a
response with one more personal question: If / when your fermentation is
stuck, do you usually pitch another batch of yeast, or do you go ahead and
bottle it? Why? Is what you do dependent on the gravity? I've heard (and
read) arguments either way. I'm curious because my last two batches have
gone kaput at around 1.033-36 (from 1.072-76). The results, of course, have
been a bit sweet to the taste -- which isn't so bad in a ginger beer but is
not what I want with Galena hops. Clearly I'm lacking something in the
yeast department (never thought I'd complain about that), and I've been
researching the faq's and archives for pristine (yet practical and
pragmatic for the non-professional) pitching procedure. In the meantime,
however, I'm curious as to how you folk treat slacker colonies.
TIA, and I'll be glad to sum 'sponses if public desires -- just zap me.
gee / \
o o o
(GeeStarr@edge.ercnet.com) o O
"...and the 'G' stands for 'non-sequitur'..." o
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 11:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: malodah@pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl)
Subject: Steam, Glorious Steam
In HOMEBREW Digest #1534, Kevin Kane asked about a favorite subject
of mine:
K> I've noticed that anyone posting, describing, brewing, etc, anything
K> about "steam beer" will religiously note that this has been trademarked by
K> Anchor brewing. Papazian gives a brief explanation about it in his book.
K>
K> Here's my problem: I was recently reading the novel _McTeague_ by
K> Norton and ran across a paragraph where the doomed hero enjoys a pitcher of
K> steam beer with his friend, Marcus. In light of some of the bandwidth on
K> trademarks like "Boston Ale", etc., how does this fit in with Anchor's fine
K> brew? What I'd like is a little more historical information, if possible.By
K> the way, the novel takes place in San Francisco.
And in HOMEBREW Digest #1535, Allan Rubinoff abswered:
A> McTeague (by Frank Norris, not Norton) was written in about 1900. At
A> the time, steam beer would have been very common in SF.
A>
A> By the time Fritz Maytag bought Anchor, Anchor Steam was the last
A> remaining steam beer. So Maytag was able to trademark the term.
To which I'd like to add a couple of glosses. Norris used steam beer
in that novel for a very specific reason. Steam first appears in
the very first paragraph of the book, and is used to define the
title character. At the time the book was written (the copyright
on the copy I have is 1899) steam beer was cheap swill. Born from
the necessity of fermenting with lager yeast without access to ice
or mechanical refrigeration, it was quickly eclipsed by lagers when
the railroad made ice-harvesting in the Sierras a viable proposition,
but hung on as it could be produced both quickly and cheaply. Surviving
commercial recipes bear no resemblance to the world-class beer of today,
beyond their heavy hopping and fermentation in shallow pans. An 1894
article in Western Brewer (this is from memory; I could easily be
wrong) described steam beer as "not a connoisseur's drink;" by having
it be McTeague's favorite beverage, Norris established right away that
the loutish mineworker-turned-quack-dentist was coarse in his tastes.
Obviously, it doesn't work quite the same way today ...
As Allan says, no one else had used the name for a long time when Maytag
revolutionized the style. It's his contention that anyone using the
name now will be attempting to trade on the reputation of Anchor's
product, so he registered and defends the trademark. Homebrewers
feel a certain resentment because of this, and their punctilious use
of the "<tm>" delicately lampoons the absurdity of it.
- Martin
= Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning Pacific*Bell =
= malodah@pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) =
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 14:53:10 EDT
From: "Terence McGravey {91942}" <tpm@swl.msd.ray.com>
Subject: Harpoon Octoberfest
There have been requests for additional info so here it is :
Harpoon Octoberfest :
Friday September 30, 5:30-11:00; Saturday October 1, 1:00-11:00 and
Sunday October 2, 1:00-7:00. In the brewery and under circus tents
with cold beers, food, bands, dancing and prizes.
Admission is $6, cash bars, public parking and free shuttle from
South Station. For more information call Harpoon voice mail
617-574-9551 x2.
Mass Bay Brewing Cop. is located at 306 Nothern Avenue in the
Marine Industrial Park. The Brewery is past the World Trade Center
and Jimmy's Restaurant. To reach Nothern Ave. follow Atlantic Ave.
past the Congress Street intersection, and take the first right
onto Nothern Ave. Harpoon is located one mile down the road on
the left. From 93, take Exit 22 when coming from the south, and exit
23 when coming from the north.
Terry McGravey
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 13:13:53 PDT"
From: michael j dix <mdix@dcssc.sj.hp.com>
Subject: Canadian commercial cider questions
Calling on Canadian and other knowledgeable members of HBD:
Some fifteen years ago I noticed that canned cider in six-packs was
available in Montreal grocery stores, right next to the beer. After
buying some and trying some, it seemed to be similar to beer in fizziness
and alcoholic content. If my recollection is correct, this suggests that
no sugar was added, and that enough cider could be fermented at one time
to last from harvest to harvest. So, I have some questions about how it
is made:
1) What apple varieties are used?
2) What is the typical O.G. and titratable acidity? Is sugar added?
3) Are any details known about fermentation and aging? (e.g. yeast)
4) Is a year's supply made at one time, or is it made from stored sweet juice
or concentrate throughout the year?
4a) If it is all made at once, how can it last for a year without changing
(or does it?)
Best regards,
Mike Dix (mdix@dcssc.sj.hp.com)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 16:25:18 edt
From: Matt_K@ceo.sts-systems.ca
Subject: Step mashing
Message:
I have a quick question re. mashing in a picnic cooler. I currently
use single step mashes. A recipe I want to try calls for multi step
mash. Is this possible in a cooler or do I have to do this on the
stove top/in the oven? Private e-mail is fine. I'll summarize if
there is enough interest.
Thank's in advance
Matt Matt_k@ceo.sts-systems.ca
P.S. The HBD is a great digest. It is entertaining and VERY
educational. It has roused me from my brewing sleep and has caused
me to start brewing again. All grain this time. An electric brew
kettle (cut off keg) is currently under construction.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 17:26:27 PDT
From: jkenny@telogy1.com (John Kenny)
Subject: be published
I am looking for information on used
brewing equipment available in the S.F.
Bay Area.
Other topics I am intersted in are
the effects of high altitude (above
7,000 feet) and temperature fluctuation
on the brewing process. My only stab at
brewing was not a failure, but wasn't a
great triumph either.
Please send any info to....
jkenny@telogy1.com
or call(415)462-5207
Thanks,
John Kenny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 21:26:33 -0400
From: fleck@newton.franklincoll.edu
Subject: Phil's Philler
OK. What's the deal with my Phil's Philler. . . For about 10 batches of
bottling it worked like a charm and I thought it was the best $10.95 I
ever spent. Now, though, it seems to get stuck in the filling position and
my brew overflows. I have been faithful in cleaning and sanitizing. I don't
notice it hanging up on anything. But during my last three bottlings it has
not shut off properly. Any suggestions? TIA
Susie Fleck
fleck@newton.franklincoll.edu
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1538, 09/28/94
*************************************
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