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HOMEBREW Digest #1500
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/08/13 00:38:35
HOMEBREW Digest #1500 Sat 13 August 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Hopped Reception (Thomas J. Ryder)
Chewing tobacco as pest control (Sean C. Cox)
CO2 connections (Bryan L. Gros)
Berry Beer Recipe Wanted ("Ray Siemens")
recipe request (Kirk Williams)
Re: CA law (Rick Myers)
Extra bottles, Colorado Chillers (john keith hopp)
Re: re green priming (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Special Holiday Ale (Mark E. Perkins)
Bad rumors..... (KWH)
That Oaky flavor (Phil Miller)
SG corrections again/Anchor Porter thx & info (David Draper)
Summer's Fading Light Ale (Mark Evans)
Another useless post - speculation on "bine" (Dan Strahs)
Phil's Philler update (Ed Westemeier)
what's the truth about Wyeast #1056 ? (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
Mash set-up costs: first-time alternatives (Mark Evans)
Re: Counter Presure Filler For Sale (Jon Higby)
Sources for Gott 10 gallon coolers (Rich Lenihan)
Mini-Kegs (Ralph Lambalot)
Re: Diacetyl production (Jim Busch)
Legal to make homebrew in West Virginia ? (Mark A. Stevens)
Phil's Philler (Dan Listermann)
Re: keg sanitation summary (Dion Hollenbeck)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 08:02:27 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271@appenine.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing
Yet another installment of
The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing
By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year
part 5
The Mash (cont)
2.2. Extracts
Commercial malt extracts are made in the same way as I have described
above.
However, the extract manufactures have taken the extra step of removing
some or all of
the water that the sugar is suspended in. Doing this requires a tremendous
amount of
energy, both in the heating of the extract, and in the vacuum process
by which water is
most economically removed. Furthermore, certain unscrupulous extract
manufacturers
have been suspected of substituting corn sugars and other cheaper
sugar alternatives for
malt sugar in order to increase profits on their products. All grain
brewing allows you to
be 100% sure about what goes into your pridefully crafted brews.
There is nothing wrong or sinful about using malt extracts. There
are many wonderful
malt extract kits available in the market today. Extract brewers have
taken many knocks
concerning their "beginner" status. This is mere provincialism.
The use of malt extracts
allows the all-grain brewer to thicken up a batch of normally extracted
sugars without
the long term boiling that would otherwise be required to reduce the
sugar solution to
the higher gravities required for styles like bocks and barley wines.
2.3. Non-barley additives
Other substances, called adjuncts, can be added to the mash or kettle
for a number of
reasons. The most common adjunct, at least in British style brewing
are various kinds of
sugars. Because the malting of barley is so labor intensive, and therefore
expensive, many
types of sugars have been added to the boiling kettle to stretch out
the mix. Along with
the previously mentioned cane and corn sugars are the intermediate
steps in the
production of these sugars. Molasses results from the initial boiling
of the sap of the
sugar cane. Condensation of molasses gives a product called brewers
licorice, which
tastes very similar. Further refinement yields brown sugar, and finally
cane sugar.
Other type adjuncts are more commonly added to the mash tun, with
the most
commonly added grain being wheat. Wheat is hard to malt, because it
lacks a protective
husk around the grain. Wheat is also higher in proteinaceous material,
which can lead to
a particulate haze in the final brew. However, it is impossible to
make a wheat beer
without wheat, so one must use it to match a particular style. Also,
the use of a little
wheat in the mash can contribute to improved head retention, and so
many of my recipes
call for a pound or so of wheat in the grain bill.
Other grains can be added to the mash, but are not always malted.
Rice is often used
to stretch out barley sugars. In fact, the big mega-breweries use
a lot of rice (and corn)
to make the beer that makes the money that powers the hydroplanes
and dragsters that
seem to be these companies main products. Rice is not malted, but
must be boiled,
prepared just like you were going to eat it, to soften up the starches
inside the grain. If
this is not done, the enzymes provided by the barley malt will not
be able to gain access
to the starch in the grain.
Another method of making starch available to the enzymes is used with
grains like
rye, oats, and corn. These grains are crushed in special rollers,
with the heat released by
this operation serving to cook the grain. The crushing action also
makes little grain bits
out of big grain bits, making enzyme access that much easier. These
grains, especially rye
and oats, could also be boiled, but this would allow some nasty oils
to be leeched out.
What other kinds of starch can be used to make beer? Your imagination
(and the
trust of your friends) is all that stands between you and the next
big micro-brewing
revolution. If you can think of a starch, it can probably be mashed
into your next brewing
adventure. Many cultures make their own kind of beer without knowledge
of barley, but
other sources of converting enzymes must be found. Sake is a type
of rice beer that uses
only rice for starch and sugar. A special mold is added that releases
the enzyme that is
responsible for this transformation. Millet and other grains are used
for many
intoxicating native beverages. In many cultures, it is the women's
job to masticate (or
chew) the grains to make them soft. Their saliva contains the same
enzyme that converts
starch to sugar. (This is where the trust of your friends comes in.
Maybe you don't want
to tell them how you made the beer until after they've tried it...)
For other sources of
starch, the sky's the limit. Potatoes? Sure. Pumpkins? Why not. Peanuts?
OK. Chickens?
Well maybe not. The important thing is not to limit yourself to doing
what everybody else
does. You can't learn anything if you don't make mistakes.
Till next time,
Rich Webb
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 11:49:05 EDT
From: tryder@pen.k12.va.us (Thomas J. Ryder)
Subject: Hopped Reception
In #1498, Mark Evans told of his Hop Vine Monument. Several
years ago, my brother gave me a couple of bits of cascade. I
threw them into the ground right next to my deck. Two years
later, it became obvious that the vine was no longer satisfied
climbing to the top of my deck rail, so I trellised it to the
roof of my ranch house. No longer satisfied with living the
bound life of trellis vine, my cascade explored the outer
limits of known space by creeping up the TV antenna which
extends about 10 or so feet above the roof. Now a year later,
I harvest cascade from my TV antenna while perched on a
step-ladder on the roof. Although I don't reccommend this
harvesting method for everyone, I personally find it uniquely
exhilerating. My wife still swears that the TV doesn't bring
those channels in like it used to.
- --
__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __
tryder@pen.k12.va.us
Thomas Ryder
Nathanael Greene Elementary
General Delivery
Stanardsville, VA 22973
"Zivela slobona Hrvatsku!"
aloc tied
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 11:59:42 EDT
From: scox@factset.com (Sean C. Cox)
Subject: Chewing tobacco as pest control
Ed Ditto mentioned using a chewing tobacco solution for beetle control,
apparently an effective measure. Nicotine is used widely as a pesticide
for all kinds of nasties, so it's not surprising that it works well for
beetles.
His caution about spraying vines vs. cones is somewhat understandable, if
he's not a smoker, he probably ought to avoid it, but smokers can probably
go ahead and spray everything, as they'll get far more nicotine from their
cigarettes than from their hops.
I'm curious as to the cost efficiency of steeping chewing tobacco vs. just
buying some kind of nicotine spray at the local hardware/garden shop.
-- Sean
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=-=- Sean Cox =-= FactSet Data Systems -=- scox@factset.com =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=EOT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 09:08:53 -0700
From: bgros@sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros)
Subject: CO2 connections
How do people use their CO2 bottle for uses other than plugging
into a keg? I mean things like purging carboys, purging hops
jars for storage, and in a closed fermenation system like the
one described in the latest Brewing Techniques?
What sort of connections do you use? I was thinking of an open
tube and just control the flow with the regulator. Is this right
or are there connectors with valves out there to be had?
Thanks
- Bryan
bgros@sensitivity.berkeley.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 09:12:06 PST
From: "Ray Siemens" <siemens@unixg.ubc.ca>
Subject: Berry Beer Recipe Wanted
Well, its berry season here in Vancouver and, after sampling a framboise ale
the other night, I've promised a friend that I'd make a batch of my own with
some berry (blackberry, raspberry, etc.). Could anyone suggest a favorite
recipe? or point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!
Ray Siemens
University of British Columbia
siemens@unixg.ubc.ca
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 10:47:51 MDT
From: williams@dracaena.lanl.gov (Kirk Williams)
Subject: recipe request
Im looking for an all-grain recipe to immitate Petes' Wicked Winter Ale.
This was a seasonal beer that i first heard about last winter; and i couldn't
get enough! so i thought i'd try my hand at it for this winter.
It was a nutmeg and raspberry ale.
Thanks!
k.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 10:56:17 MDT
From: Rick Myers <rcm@col.hp.com>
Subject: Re: CA law
Full-Name: Rick Myers
Ed Quier writes:
> Regarding Ca. law, I contacted the Ca. Alcohol Bev. Control who stated
> that it is legal for an individual to brew 200 gals per person [adult]
> with a max of 300 gal. per household per year. It is legal to take to
It sounds like the person on the other end of the phone didn't know
what they were talking about, and didn't bother looking it up!
The FEDERAL limit is 100 gallons for one head of household, and
a maximum of 200 gallons per household per year. I doubt that CA's
BATF will override the federal BATF...
Rick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 12:31:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: john keith hopp <jhopp@unm.edu>
Subject: Extra bottles, Colorado Chillers
First, I have 2 cases of 12oz refillable beer bottles (mostly SA or same
type) to give away to anyone who wants them (free!). E-mail me (I live
in Albuquerque, NM) if you need them.
Second, does anybody remember "Colorado Chillers," made by Coors in about
1984-85? I lived in a special test market and consumed many (yes, I
liked them big commercial brews back then) that year. According to an
article in Southwest Brewing News (April/May '94), they were suddenly
removed from the market due to the fact that they would go "skunky" when
exposed to sunlight (foolish green bottles they were served in). Well,
golly, I liked it. It had a very dry taste and a clean finish (unlike
Zee Zima's(tm) Fresca(tm) taste).
Anyone remember these? If so, have you attempted a recipe to imitate
it? If anyone does, please post/e-mail a recipe (extract-based,
please).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 14:47:50 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: Re: re green priming
Chip Hitchcock writes:
> I don't think it works that way---that's the point of including the
> SG drop in the formula (to get not just the concentration but the actual
> fermentables with this specific yeast/wort pair).
Well, that would be a different formula. Let's start from "first
principles". First, I'll derive my "0.004" rule of thumb:
1 "volume" of CO2 at Standard Temperature and Pressure
(STP = 0C, 1atmosphere) contains
(44 g/mole) / (22 l/mole) = 2 g/l
Thus, 1 liter of CO2 dissolved in 1 liter of water (1 volume) is
2g/1000g = 0.2% by weight.
1 gram of "sugar" produces about 0.5 gram of CO2 when fermented. Thus
a 1% solution of sugar produces a 0.5% solution of CO2, or 2.5
volumes when fully fermented (attenuated).
Finally, 0.004 SG difference corresponds to a 1% sugar solution, so
0.004 SG difference results in 2.5 volumes carbonation, about right
for a pilsner style, for example. Again, this assumes 100%
attenuation, which you (should) get from corn sugar, but not from
wort.
Alternatively, to get 1 volume of CO2, you would need a .4% sugar
solution, corresponding to a SG difference of 0.0016.
Next, let's consider attenuation. From Fix (e-mail, HBD approximately
#880), we have
RE = .1808*OE + .8192*AE,
where
OE = original extract (i.e., extract of finished wort in deg. Plato)
AE = apparent extract (i.e., measured deg. Plato of finished beer).
RE = real extract of finished beer in deg. Plato
Thus
RA = 1 - RE / OE = .82 * (1 - AE / OE),
where RA = Real Attenuation (% sugars fermented).
Finally, let's go back to my equation and fix it up to take
attenuation into account. I had
V(b)*E(b) + V(w)*E(w)
E(m) = ---------------------
V(b) + E(b)
rearranged to
[E(m) - E(b)] * V(b)
V(w) = ----------------------
E(w) - E(m)
This doesn't change. But the calculation of the desired E(m) does
change. Let VC be the number of volumes of CO2 desired in the
conditioned beer. This requires the full attenuation of a 0.4*VC
percent sugar solution, or a (0.4*VC / RA) percent wort. Thus, the
desired rise in final gravity is (1.6 * VC / RA) "SG points".
Thus
E(m) - E(b) = 1.6 * VC / RA
Plugging this into the equation above, gives
VC * V(b)
V(w) = -----------------------------------------
0.51 * [1-E(b)/E(w)] * [E(w)-E(b)] - VC
Finally, an example: 1.050 wort, 5 gallons of beer, FG 1.008, desired
carbonation 1.5 volumes, we get
E(m) - E(b) = 3.5
V(w) = 0.45gal = 1.8 quarts
Starting with the equation for a given inital volume, where V(i) is
the initial volume, before the wort is taken for priming, we get
1.95 * VC * V(i)
V(w) = ---------------------------------
[1 - E(b)/E(w)] * [E(w) - E(b)]
The example gives V(w) = 1.7 quarts.
=S
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 16:00:57 EDT
From: perkins@zippy.ho.att.com (Mark E. Perkins)
Subject: Special Holiday Ale
Fellow HBDers--
There have been a few requests in HBD lately for recipes for Holiday
Brews. I have what I think is quite a unique 8*{) recipe (more like a
meta-recipe, actually) that I would like to share with y'all. I haven't
actually tried this one, but I think it deserves consideration.
Special Holiday Ale: I was buying a glass baster at a HB supply store
some time back, and commented to the guy there that my old plastic baster
smelled like turkey, so I didn't want to get it near my brews. He said
something about cranberry sauce that got me thinking (always dangerous, but
especially so on this particular day): Why not make a variation on the
Cock Ale described by Papazian in TNCJOHB, namely a Cranberry-Cock Ale, as
a special brew for the holidays? 8^{0 (It gets worse....) The next day,
while commuting to work, I got to thinking again (extremely dangerous so
early in the morning). When I first took up brewing, and started reading
HBD, someone was posting a series of articles for brewing with potatoes (you
guessed it!). Why not make a Potato-Cranberry-Cock Ale? Just think about
it. This could be the perfect holiday brew. On the one hand, if you don't
manage to get your shopping done for holiday dinner, you could just have a
few of these brews, and you wouldn't notice. On the other hand, you could
serve this w/ traditional dinner and you and your holiday guests wouldn't
know if you were eating or drinking.
I should make it clear to the readership that I'm still fairly new to
brewing. This is my first serious(?) attempt at recipe formulation. I'm
not sure what the hopping schedule should be, or what yeast use. Any and
all comments are, of course, welcome.
Email or post suggestions for improvements and I will collate them and
summarize to a future issue of HBD.
Cheers,
Mark
perkins@zippy.ho.att.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 16:10
From: KWH@roadnet.ups.com (KWH)
Subject: Bad rumors.....
I hate to bring up such a bad subject, but a person in my brew club
recently "informed" us that Dave Line had died of cancer that was in some
way related to his brewing practice -- wrong use of plastic fermenters, or
something. He also said that Cher Feirstein, who contributed several mead
articles to the Cat's Meow and HBD, had died in similar manner. It sounded
like a bunch of crap to me, but I have no idea what the actual
circumstances were. Does anyone know anything about these rumors? The
last thing I want to do is sound morbid, but I would like to dispell any
false information about any potential dangers of homebrewing.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 17:34:02 CDT
From: Phil Miller <C616063@MIZZOU1.missouri.edu>
Subject: That Oaky flavor
A couple of weeks ago I posted a note regarding an oaky flavor in one of
my recent brews. Well, looking at the bottlenecks, there is a ring around the
neck at the beer level. This is a telltale sign of an infection. Unfortunately,
it is not restricted to one bottle, each one has a ring. *SIGH*
An unrelated question, while racking my brew from primary to secondary, the
brew splashed and I'm afraid of that I aerated it. I have had no activity
since racking it (There still was some activity in the air lock on the
primary before I racked) and was wondering if aeration may cause fermentation
activity to subside or stop altogether. I have a tight seal on top, so I
don't think fermentation gasses are escaping. Any ideas, yonder homebrewers,
on aeration and the problems it causes.
"A circus ain't shucks| Phil Miller
to a church!" | Dept. of Economics
from Mark Twain's | University of Missouri, Columbia
Tom Sawyer | Internet: c616063@mizzou1.missouri.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 09:36:23 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <David.Draper@mq.edu.au>
Subject: SG corrections again/Anchor Porter thx & info
Dear Friends, in response to my posting of Dave Line's SG correction table
and query about whether it still holds up, I got some clear responses,
some private and a post or two. Unfortunately Line's table is WAY off at
temperatures >110-120F. The best correction procedure I got came from
Christopher Lyons via Domenick Venezia. This is an equation generated
from a third-order polynomial fit to SG vs T data in the CRC Handbook (the
"Rubber Handbook") and is as follows (T in F):
Correction = 1.313454 - 0.132674*T + 2.057793e-03*T^2 - 2.62763e-06*T^3.
This is a big change from the Line approach. As an example, consider a
wort whose gravity we measure as 1.030 at various temps (ok, so it is a
series of worts <g>). Here are corrected gravities using the polynomial
and Line's table that I posted the other day (again, no correction at 60F):
Measured grav = 1.030
T, F Poly says: Line says:
50 1.029 1.029
70 1.031 1.031
80 1.033 1.032
90 1.034 1.033
100 1.036 1.037
110 1.038 1.041
120 1.040 1.046
130 1.043 1.051
140 1.046 1.058
150 1.049 1.065
160 1.052 1.073
170 1.055 1.083
Wow! If you believe Line and measure your gravity at high temperature,
you are going to be miles from reality. Not much change at pitching temps
though, so for me, I have got the ABV about right for my beers but it
looks like I have been overestimating my extraction rates some by using
Line's values for T in the 120-130F range. Bummer. All is not rosy
for the polynomial though, because I performed my simple test of
reading the gravity of the same liquid at several temperatures to see if
I got the same results. A poster in yesterday's digest (sorry I didn't
write down your name) rightly pointed out that one must be careful
about influences of T distributions and the shape of the testing vessel.
I tried to minimize these by suspending my (sanitized of course)
hydrometer in the brewkettle after a thorough stir, so that my T and grav
readings were reproducible in at least 3 readings at each T. Results:
T, F Measured grav Poly adjusted Line adjusted
176 1.024 1.052 >1.066 (Table ends at 170F)
120 1.038 1.049 1.058
92 1.044 1.049 1.049
So, we seem to be converging with the poly, but not with Line, and the
differences are smaller with the polynomial. I conclude from this that
Dave Line's SG correction should NOT be used--the polynomial, although
apparently not perfect, is a big improvement.
Finally, thanks to the several people who got back to me about the
yeast used in Anchor Porter. The summary is that, up until about a
year ago, they used the same yeast as in the Steam (2112?), but have
now changed to an ale yeast. So there is nothing sinful in using 2112 to
make a Porter (data above on SG come from said Porter, BTW).
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
- --
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109
Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper@mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428
....I'm not from here, I just live here....
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 18:45:42 -0600
From: evanms@lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans)
Subject: Summer's Fading Light Ale
Seen lots of requests for specific recipes on the board. Here's one I
worked up, and I thought it was sorta unusual. Perhaps someone else might
enjoy it. It's another thing to do with that stray Alt yeast you might
have lurking around the fridge.
"Summer's Fading Light Ale" (the light refers to the color not the strength)
8# DWC pale malt
1# DWC aromatic malt
1 oz. caramel malt--30lovi
2# light clover honey
2 oz. grated fresh ginger--45 min
1/4 oz. chinook--full boil
1/2 oz. cascade--25 min.
1/4 oz. cascade--steep
1/4 oz. cascade--dry hopped in secondary--16 days
alt yeast (headstart cultures) 4th pitch
3/4 c. dextrose to prime.
mash: 122f--15": 150f+ 90"
Boil: 75" ferment temp: 70 F
Primary: 5 days; secondary: 16 days
OG: 1.055; FG: 1.009 (Honey really lowers the FG!)
has a beautiful blonde color with a rosey tinge. Chinook and ginger really
blend with the cascade. Slightly warm but refreshing.
Enjoy!
Mark Evans
=================================================================
| Mark Evans Dubuque, Iowa |
| Practitioner of |
* | Visual, Literary, and Zymurgistic arts | *
| Evanms@LCAC1.Loras.edu |
| 319-582-3139 |
=================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 17:30:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Dan Strahs <STRAHS@msvax.mssm.edu>
Subject: Another useless post - speculation on "bine"
Jeff Benjamin <benji@hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> wrote:
>I'm curious if anyone has a complete etymology for the word "bine".
>My American Heritage College Dictionary has the following:
>
> bine n. The flexible twining or climbing stem of certain
> plants, such as the hop or woodbine. [Alteration of BIND,
> VINE.]
> vine n. 1.a. A weak-stemmed plant that derives its support
> from climbing, twining, or creeping along a surface. b. The
> stem of such a plant.
>
>Not much help in determining how hop stems got their own word. My
>Webster's Unabridged at home isn't much help either. The alteration
>is fairly obvious, but why the separate designation? Any linguists
>out there have an answer?
Not that I'm a linguist in the end 8~). But as many of us know,
hops are closely related to hemp, which is used to make rope and twine.
Seems like, long before hops were put into beer, they might have been used
for a similar purpose. Hence, bynde -> bind ->bine.
Just an observation - I can't fall back on blaming authorities for
this possible faux-pas.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 08:39:30 +0500
From: ed.westemeier@sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier)
Subject: Phil's Philler update
In HBD 1499, George Kavanagh said about Phil's Philler:
> I have used same for about 5 batches and find it a good
> replacement for the inexpensive "valve-on-the-end-of a-cane"
> filler. It does take some getting used to, as it is not spring
> loaded as the cane end valve is (don't hold it upside down;
> the beer will flow!)
> However, it does fill with less agitation, and the fill level remains
> the same when you remove the filler.
> I recommend it as a useful addition to your brew gadget
> collection.
I too have used this clever gadget for years, and really like it.
Although George's comment has been correct until now, I noticed the
other day at a homebrew supplly dealer that the current models
ARE NOW SPRING-LOADED! Very nicely done, and the spring seems to be
of good quality. I think the best bottle filler has just been made
even better. I think the price is the same, too.
Disclaimer: Although I know Dan Listermann, I have no connection
with his business -- just a satisfied customer.
Ed Westemeier, Cincinnati, Ohio.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 09:20 EDT
From: CSS2@OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
Subject: what's the truth about Wyeast #1056 ?
I'm very confused about Wyeast #1056; many folks on the HBD talk about it as
"Sierra Nevada's yeast". Someone else came back and said that it is not SN's
yeast.In the last issue of Zymurgy's yeast guide, the say it is Sierra's
yeast.A day or two ago, someone came back on the digest and said it isn't...
Does anybody know for sure???
I've also heard that SNPA has a different yeast used for bottle conditioning
vs. fermentation...again, anybody know for sure???
Confused in PA
Curt
css2@oas.psu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 08:53:00 -0600
From: evanms@lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans)
Subject: Mash set-up costs: first-time alternatives
The recent thread on mash set-up costs has been fascinating, but I imagine
it could be daunting for a shy, wanna-bee all-grainer. And while a
cadillac set-up often makes a superior brew, one can scrounge for
equiptment and still make excellent beer. Then, as prosperity arrives,
upgrade each component. This is my set-up--which has been only marginally
upgraded in the last few years. My brew fans (wife, friends, and family)
love my brew and my kids still get new clothes each year when school
starts. ;^)
(this is definitely a five gallon set-up)
5 gal. enamelled/steel pot (got it from mom :^)
6 gal. enamelled/steel pot (got it a flea market near Maquoketa, Ia. for
$5; I'm careful with the handles.
(when my big pot doesn't hold all the wort, I just put the excess in the
other, boil, and combine in the carboy. it's only a minor hassle.)
Listerman sparge system (my big purchase) $34.95
(this replaced my leaky old Zapap lauter)
Immersion Wort chiller (a major mash component need): 25 ft. of 3/8 copper
($18) bent into a coil;
plastic hosing for each end(12 ft: $6) hose clamp ($1.50) replacement
coupling for faucet ($2)
mash tun: a box large enough to hold my brew pot. The box is lined on all
sides with 1/2 inch rigid styrofoam insulation (A la Papazian). I found
the insulation in the cellar of a house I rented.
Heat source; a four burner gas stove ( a friend gave it to us)
Total for this stuff? About $75 bucks.
There is a bit of moving around in my system. The floor always
needs mopping afterward. The grains that don't get to my compost get
slurped up by the dog. My next move is to get one of those Phil's Phillers.
Then perhaps a nice SS 7-10 gallon pot. No...I better wait until after I
get my degree in December.
Never worrying and brewfully yours, Mark Evans
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 94 9:17:08 CDT
From: unisql!jonh@cs.utexas.edu (Jon Higby)
Subject: Re: Counter Presure Filler For Sale
In a recent HBD, Timothy Sixberry says:
> Yes I bought a CPF from Braunk( what ever), and I can't stand the thing. I
> had every problem previously mentioned and more. Then some kind soul here
> on the digest suggested just sticking a plastic tube up my beer tap, and
> just filling right from the tap.
I went exactly the opposite way - first the tube on the end of the tap to
the Braukunst CPF. Bottling from the tap produced 30% foam and lost a fair
amount of carbonation.
Here is how I use the Braukunst CPF successfully:
1.) I put a bunch of ice and water in an empty keg with a little sterilizer
(iodine based). I use this right before I start bottling to completely
cool the CPF. Otherwise, the first 2-3 bottles have more foaming as
the CPF cools down. This is not unique to the Braukunst CPF, it is
part of the reaction when a carbonated liquid is warmed up.
2.) Completely chill all the bottles (I put mine in the freezer with a cap
loosely placed on top).
3.) Have your keg as cold as possible.
4.) The procedure:
A.) Purge the bottle with CO2
B.) Cover the release valve with a finger to allow the pressure to
build up (2-3 seconds). Then shut off the gas valve.
C.) Turn on the beer valve. Notice that since your finger is still
covering the release valve, that no beer flows in.
D.) Slowly let pressure out of the release valve so that the bottle
fills slowly. You should have very little foaming. I never completely
remove my finger from the release valve - it flows to fast then and
causes a lot of foaming.
E.) When the liquid level reaches the desired point in the bottle,
completely cover the release valve again. Some foam may come
out the release valve before the liquid is at the desired level,
but after 3-4 bottles I don't get any foam coming through the
pressure release valve.
F.) Turn off the beer valve.
G.) Keep you finger over the release valve for another 3-4 seconds.
Slowly remove your finger from the release valve (lets the little
pressure in the head space out).
H.) Remove the CPF, cap.
I.) Go back to A.)
5.) Run some more of the solution in step 1.) through the CPF and release
valve to clean it.
>
> So- COUNTER PRESURE BOTTLE FILLER FOR SALE !! Used once and never again.
> $20 If your still interested drop me a line.
>
Part of why I bought the Braukunst CPF, was the money back if not satisfied
clause. Send it back and get your $36 refund. I think if you try my method
first, you'll end up keeping it.
For those of you who have a non-Braukunst CPF, the pin/ball valve on your CPF
where you release the CO2/air from the bottle is a pressure relief valve
(releases at about 6 PSI) on the Braukunst CPF. I simply use my finger to
control the flow / release rate from the bottle. I also have no problems
filling bottles all by myself.
Jon
- --
Jon Higby ---- UniSQL, Inc. ---- email: unisql!jonh@cs.utexas.edu
Denial clause: Prices subject to change w/o notice, actual mileage may vary.
Fat-free, high fiber, tastes great. If you've read this far, you must be
looking for this: Any opinions I expressed are just that - my opinions.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 11:10:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: rlenihan@world.std.com (Rich Lenihan)
Subject: Sources for Gott 10 gallon coolers
If you are unable to locate a source for Gott 10 gallon cylindrical
coolers, send a check for $46.75 to:
Rubbermaid Specialty Products
P.O. Box 547 Dept. K
Winfield KS 67156-0547
The model number is 1610. This price includes S&H (within US). If you
have questions, call 800-347-3114. Sorry, I don't know what the non-800
number is. Other sources include:
Builders Square
Ace Hardware
True Value Hardware
Servistar Hardware
BTW, the person I spoke with at Rubbermaid thought I would be foolish to
buy directly from them since I "could probably get it much cheaper
locally". Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find it myself so I'll
probably send them a check RSN.
-Rich
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 11:02:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ralph Lambalot <lambalot@walsh.med.harvard.edu>
Subject: Mini-Kegs
I recently purchased a 5 liter mini-keg setup. I'd appreciate if anyone
would share their mini-kegging experiences with me by e-mail. Many thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 11:21:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Re: Diacetyl production
Algis wrote:
> Subject: Oxygen during fermentation
>
> aeration of post-ferment beer. During fermentation, the addition of oxygen
> increases diacetyl production.
>
>At Samuel Smiths brewery in Tadcaster, they use a yeast that is so highly
>flocculent that they must pump beer from the bottom of the fermenter and
>spray it onto the top (Yorkshire Stone Squares, BTW). I've seen this in
>person and I can assure you there was plenty of oxygen available, both for
>me to breathe and for the spraying beer. The spray was fan-shaped, perhaps
>a 45 degree angle and perhaps three feet in width when it disappeared into
>the frothing head. The increased diacetyl production is certainly verified
>by tasting the beer -- SS Old Brewery Pale Ale has a strong diacetyl
>component.
Sounds like a classic British technique. This is commonly done in
several Peter Austin Breweries. Funny, the Austin systems typically
use Ringwood yeast which is a high diacetyl producer anyway. Some
folks just cant enough diacetyl. Personnaly, I dont mind some, but
a lot of these beers push the levels way beyond what I prefer.
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 94 10:56:24 EDT
From: Mark A. Stevens <stevens@stsci.edu>
Subject: Legal to make homebrew in West Virginia ?
There's been a lot of discussion the last couple days about the
legality of homebrewing in West Virginia, sparked by Paul Stokely's
story of a friend who had his beer & equipment confiscated.
Everyone was quick to accuse the cop of being ignorant and
overzealous, but maybe he knew something we don't. (Did you
notice that *NOBODY* cited an actual state code or a binding
court decision???)
Lots of observations about how there are homebrew supply shops
in the state, and how there are homebrew clubs, but that doesn't
prove much. When did Georgia finally sanction homebrewing? I
believe it was only in the past few months. Yet there have been
clubs there for years. The existence of clubs and shops doesn't
really prove anything about the status of the law.
I decided to try to find out what the situation really was. I called
AHA and they said the law is not clear, but that they would
send me some info explaining what they knew about it. (Hopefully
I'll get this soon and it might help explain things a bit---
send me email if you want to know what AHA sends me).
Paul mentioned that his friend's lawyer did not know whether or
not homebrewing was legal, so I decided to call my own lawyer.
He also did not know offhand (I guess the question doesn't come
up too often ;-). He did, of course, offer to research it for
me and is perfectly willing to find the relevant statutes....
if I agree to pay his fee. I declined for now...I'm curious,
but not curious enough to break out the checkbook!
I've also been corresponding by e-mail with Bill Henson
(awchrd2@peabody.sct.ucarb.com) who reports that he called
several offices in the state government, including the Attorney
General's office and the Alcoholic Beverage Commission, and
was told that they do not specifically have any law that
prohibits homebrewing, so their offices consider homebrewing
to be legal by the fact that it is not specifically prohibited.
In any case, it sounds to me like there may not be any state
law on the books that specifically allows homebrewing, but that
there's also nothing that specifically bans it. Because the
law is silent on the question (or at least real quiet) it could
be that a cop is within the bounds of reason to think that
laws applying to commercial alcohol producers (especially tax
laws) should apply to homebrew as well. If the state has a law
on the books requiring licenses and tax bonds for any brewery,
but doesn't specifically exempt home brewers, then it certainly
seems like the cop might be justified in thinking that homebrewing
is an illegal activity. Maybe not "justified", but perhaps also
not "ignorant".
In any case, before we bash this cop anymore, we ought to find
out for sure whether *HE* is the ignorant party here, or whether
*WE* are the ones who are ignorant. If anybody finds solid
proof either way, please post.
Cheers!
- ---Mark Stevens
stevens@stsci.edu
------------------------------
Date: 12 Aug 94 09:37:14 EDT
From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707@compuserve.com>
Subject: Phil's Philler
I want to thank George Kavavagh for the nice things he said about Phil's
Philler. There is one thing I would like to point out though; all of the
phillers produced since October of 1993 ( about half of all sold) have a
light stainless steel spring in them which makes them much easier to use
and has allowed for an opening of the porting for better flow.
Dan Listermann
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 94 09:55:16 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: keg sanitation summary
>>>>> "Adrien" == Adrien Glauser <Adrien_Glauser@tvo.org> writes:
Adrien> First: Do NOT/NEVER use chlorine (an acid) or any abrasive
Adrien> substance to clean your kegs. The reason being is that
Adrien> chlorine will eat the keg, leaving small pits, and any
Adrien> abrasive substance will also scrape and pit the inside of the
Adrien> keg. These pits and scrapes are perfect places for bacteria
Adrien> and other stuff to hide in. Think of it being compariable to
Adrien> plastic fermentors. Once they are scratched, you might as well
Adrien> through them out. With steel wool, small fragments break off
Adrien> and get stuck in the stainless and this will make your beer
Adrien> taste bad. Again, not a good thing.
Adrien> Some people did mention that you can use chlorine/bleach. The
Adrien> trick is to use a concentration that is weak enough and use a
Adrien> short expose time to reduce the time that the chlorine has to
Adrien> eat your keg. <- "Not with my expensive kegs you don't!"
Agreed that abrasives should not be used. Agreed that steel wool is
horrible, it will even cause rust to appear on the surface of the SS
because the steel is embedded in the SS and the steel is rusting.
However, I have to disagree about chlorine. At least over in
rec.crafts.brewing (and I think in HBD also) John Palmer who is a
metallurgist gave an excellent explanation of use of chlorine.
Chlorinated products are safe if you use them in the concentrations
appropriate for sanitization, you do not let them sit in contact with
the SS for extended periods of time (days) and you fill the keg
completely with sanitizer solution.
The problem arises at the top of the liquid where it meets air. Some
interaction with oxygen goes on right there and nowhere else that
causes the free cholrine concentration to go way up and it then can
indeed pit the SS.
I have been using CTSP on my kegs for a year with no ill effects. I
use 1 TBS per gallon of hot water, completely fill the keg and leave
it to sit for 20 minutes and then thoruoghly rinse out.
John, care to correct me in any errors? If you are not on HBD, then I
will forward back into HBD.
dion
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1500, 08/13/94
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